Re: [bolger] Re: fitting polycarbonate?
Sounds like you guys are mixing up polycarbonate and plexiglas (aka
acrylic). Polycarbonate is very hard to crack. You can beat on it and
bend it without doing so, and I certainly can't recall any troubles with
holes. It's good to use a slow feed rate, however, so it doesn't melt
and freeze and grab your tools suddenly, which can do a real job on a
bandsaw blade.
Si señor. The stuff is tuff. Expensive but well worth it when the
characteristics demand it. We use it for signage purpose when we need
something to stand up to bored punk's abuse, for example. The usual
problem is machining the stuff, as it is formulated precisely to
prevent the same damages you are trying to inflict on it.
PET is another of these materials ( the same used for soda bottles) ,
although less rigid, and less scratch resistant.
Both should state the U.V. resistance warranty, as not all are
formulated for exterior use!
We cut it with a jigsaw with a DeWalt cobalt steel Extreme blade, ref
DT2144, for alu, plastics and fiberglass. These blades are great. As a
matter of fact, lately we tend to buy DeWalt power tools as first
choice. ( Standard Disclaimer : No relation to DeWalt... Bla, bla...)
Juan.
acrylic). Polycarbonate is very hard to crack. You can beat on it and
bend it without doing so, and I certainly can't recall any troubles with
holes. It's good to use a slow feed rate, however, so it doesn't melt
and freeze and grab your tools suddenly, which can do a real job on a
bandsaw blade.
Si señor. The stuff is tuff. Expensive but well worth it when the
characteristics demand it. We use it for signage purpose when we need
something to stand up to bored punk's abuse, for example. The usual
problem is machining the stuff, as it is formulated precisely to
prevent the same damages you are trying to inflict on it.
PET is another of these materials ( the same used for soda bottles) ,
although less rigid, and less scratch resistant.
Both should state the U.V. resistance warranty, as not all are
formulated for exterior use!
We cut it with a jigsaw with a DeWalt cobalt steel Extreme blade, ref
DT2144, for alu, plastics and fiberglass. These blades are great. As a
matter of fact, lately we tend to buy DeWalt power tools as first
choice. ( Standard Disclaimer : No relation to DeWalt... Bla, bla...)
Juan.
Sounds like you guys are mixing up polycarbonate and plexiglas (aka
acrylic). Polycarbonate is very hard to crack. You can beat on it and
bend it without doing so, and I certainly can't recall any troubles with
holes. It's good to use a slow feed rate, however, so it doesn't melt
and freeze and grab your tools suddenly, which can do a real job on a
bandsaw blade. I suppose those ideas with oversize holes are good so the
polycarbonate will lay down flat. Plexi, on the other hand, will crack
if you just think about it wrong. (I promise not to think too hard about
anyone else's plexi windows.)
acrylic). Polycarbonate is very hard to crack. You can beat on it and
bend it without doing so, and I certainly can't recall any troubles with
holes. It's good to use a slow feed rate, however, so it doesn't melt
and freeze and grab your tools suddenly, which can do a real job on a
bandsaw blade. I suppose those ideas with oversize holes are good so the
polycarbonate will lay down flat. Plexi, on the other hand, will crack
if you just think about it wrong. (I promise not to think too hard about
anyone else's plexi windows.)
> craig o'donnell wrote:
>someone else wrote:
>
>
>>>The manufacturers have detailed specifications for everything you are
>>>asking. Go to the website of the maker of your polycarbonate and
>>>follow the directions. Several caveats. These materials are fussy
>>>about the kind of drill you use, the speed you drill. They have widely
>>>variable shrinkage rates so the holes have to accommodate the
>>>shrinkage/expansion.
>>
>>Don't use drywall screws or wood screws. Use pan head screws unless you
>>have cup washers for the "fluted" shank screws. If you use fluted head
>>screws like drywall screws you'll crack the plastic.
>>
>>Drill holes oversize so the plastic can expand and contract.
>> --
>>
>The manufacturers have detailed specifications for everything you areDon't use drywall screws or wood screws. Use pan head screws unless you
>asking. Go to the website of the maker of your polycarbonate and
>follow the directions. Several caveats. These materials are fussy
>about the kind of drill you use, the speed you drill. They have widely
>variable shrinkage rates so the holes have to accommodate the
>shrinkage/expansion.
have cup washers for the "fluted" shank screws. If you use fluted head
screws like drywall screws you'll crack the plastic.
Drill holes oversize so the plastic can expand and contract.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
I replaced the windows with Plexiglas on my boat (www.captnpauley.com). They
were 3/8" thick and I drilled the holes about 2-3" apart. Use a plastic
drill or knock off the cutting edge of a standard twist drill practice on
scrap to make sure it doesn't "grab" and chip the plastic. I used a medium
toothed saber saw and cut outside the line. Sand to the line. Then I rounded
over the edge and polished it with 600 grit then jewelers rouge until shiny.
This remove any scratches that could serve as stress riser and crack the
plastic. I used 1/4" fasteners in 5/16" hole to allow for
expansion/contraction. I also used pan head screws with washers underneath.
DON'T USE COUNTERSUNK SCREWS!!! I painted the area on the back side of the
window where it mounted on the cabin. I used 3M 101. BoatLIFE Life-Calk is
also good. 5200 or even 4200 may react with the plastic. I put rubber
washers on the back side of the screws so the window tightened down on them
and didn't squeeze out all the plastic. Use plenty of tape to mask off any
areas you don't want sealant...
This article will appear in the next issue of SAIL's BoatWorks Magazine.
Paul Esterle
Freelance Boating Writer
Member, Boating Writers International
Published in Small Craft Advisor, SAIL,
Living Aboard, Boatbuilder, Good Old
Boat, Blue Water Sailing, Nor'easter
pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
www.smallcraftadvisor.com
www.captnpauley.com
were 3/8" thick and I drilled the holes about 2-3" apart. Use a plastic
drill or knock off the cutting edge of a standard twist drill practice on
scrap to make sure it doesn't "grab" and chip the plastic. I used a medium
toothed saber saw and cut outside the line. Sand to the line. Then I rounded
over the edge and polished it with 600 grit then jewelers rouge until shiny.
This remove any scratches that could serve as stress riser and crack the
plastic. I used 1/4" fasteners in 5/16" hole to allow for
expansion/contraction. I also used pan head screws with washers underneath.
DON'T USE COUNTERSUNK SCREWS!!! I painted the area on the back side of the
window where it mounted on the cabin. I used 3M 101. BoatLIFE Life-Calk is
also good. 5200 or even 4200 may react with the plastic. I put rubber
washers on the back side of the screws so the window tightened down on them
and didn't squeeze out all the plastic. Use plenty of tape to mask off any
areas you don't want sealant...
This article will appear in the next issue of SAIL's BoatWorks Magazine.
Paul Esterle
Freelance Boating Writer
Member, Boating Writers International
Published in Small Craft Advisor, SAIL,
Living Aboard, Boatbuilder, Good Old
Boat, Blue Water Sailing, Nor'easter
pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
www.smallcraftadvisor.com
www.captnpauley.com
The manufacturers have detailed specifications for everything you are
asking. Go to the website of the maker of your polycarbonate and
follow the directions. Several caveats. These materials are fussy
about the kind of drill you use, the speed you drill. They have widely
variable shrinkage rates so the holes have to accommodate the
shrinkage/expansion.
Bob Chamberland
asking. Go to the website of the maker of your polycarbonate and
follow the directions. Several caveats. These materials are fussy
about the kind of drill you use, the speed you drill. They have widely
variable shrinkage rates so the holes have to accommodate the
shrinkage/expansion.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...> wrote:
> A week away from mounting my windows, some nice smoked
> polycarbonate. Hate to screw it up because the polycaronate was
> heart breakingly expensive.
>
> How should i cut it out......card board template to the sheet,
> outlined and jigsawed with a plastic blade?
>
> How should i mount.....from the inside backed by some fir stips or
> right onto the exterior house sides?...how much flange do i need? or
> maybe flush into the openings with a firr flange on the inside?
>
> How far apart should i drill the holes? (1/4" thick)
>
> I've got a box of little bronze screws, washers and a several tubes
> of 5200 donated to the project.
>
> Thanks,
> Jason
Don't use the 5200, you might want to replace the light sometime down the
road. Try 4200 or ...
It's easy for me to confuse Lexan (polycarbonate) and Plexiglas (acrylic).
Lexan is TOUGH, plexi isn't. That said, the Lexan is so darned expensive I
treat it like the plexi and get rid of ALL tool marks after beating it into
shape.
Cut the Lexan with anything; e.g. saws, axe, etc. Curve by hammering or with
a sheet metal brake. Cut the Plexi by scraping. Bend with a hot wire.
Hole spacing? Maybe 6"? or 7"? That's too close but it will look good.
I've seen several jobs where the spacing was too large to begin with and
then the builder had to go back and make it half which was much too close.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
road. Try 4200 or ...
It's easy for me to confuse Lexan (polycarbonate) and Plexiglas (acrylic).
Lexan is TOUGH, plexi isn't. That said, the Lexan is so darned expensive I
treat it like the plexi and get rid of ALL tool marks after beating it into
shape.
Cut the Lexan with anything; e.g. saws, axe, etc. Curve by hammering or with
a sheet metal brake. Cut the Plexi by scraping. Bend with a hot wire.
Hole spacing? Maybe 6"? or 7"? That's too close but it will look good.
I've seen several jobs where the spacing was too large to begin with and
then the builder had to go back and make it half which was much too close.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@...>
> A week away from mounting my windows, some nice smoked
> polycarbonate. Hate to screw it up because the polycaronate was
> heart breakingly expensive.
>
> How should i cut it out......card board template to the sheet,
> outlined and jigsawed with a plastic blade?
>
> How should i mount.....from the inside backed by some fir stips or
> right onto the exterior house sides?...how much flange do i need? or
> maybe flush into the openings with a firr flange on the inside?
>
> How far apart should i drill the holes? (1/4" thick)
>
> I've got a box of little bronze screws, washers and a several tubes
> of 5200 donated to the project.
A week away from mounting my windows, some nice smoked
polycarbonate. Hate to screw it up because the polycaronate was
heart breakingly expensive.
How should i cut it out......card board template to the sheet,
outlined and jigsawed with a plastic blade?
How should i mount.....from the inside backed by some fir stips or
right onto the exterior house sides?...how much flange do i need? or
maybe flush into the openings with a firr flange on the inside?
How far apart should i drill the holes? (1/4" thick)
I've got a box of little bronze screws, washers and a several tubes
of 5200 donated to the project.
Thanks,
Jason
polycarbonate. Hate to screw it up because the polycaronate was
heart breakingly expensive.
How should i cut it out......card board template to the sheet,
outlined and jigsawed with a plastic blade?
How should i mount.....from the inside backed by some fir stips or
right onto the exterior house sides?...how much flange do i need? or
maybe flush into the openings with a firr flange on the inside?
How far apart should i drill the holes? (1/4" thick)
I've got a box of little bronze screws, washers and a several tubes
of 5200 donated to the project.
Thanks,
Jason