RE: Micro mooring (and anchoring)?

Thanx again for informative insights re. mast stepping. Doing most of the
work pre-launch while still on the trailer is actually what I had in mind. I
just assume that I'll eventually have to do it afloat. I may well add a
stepping support as you suggest, Derek, but probably not until winter. Right
now I'm so desperate to get her in the water and catch what little is left
of the season (NS doesn't quite have the sailing season you have, Aaron) I
can't bare the thought of any additional construction work. I'll definitely
borrow my daughter's digital and do a full photo chronicle of the whole
launching event, which might, just might happen next week. I'll keep you
posted.

jeb

-----Original Message-----
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: September 8, 2004 5:43 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Digest Number 2169


There are 18 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Yellow Leaf
From: craig o'donnell <dadadata@...>
2. RE: Micro mooring (and anchoring)?
From: "Jack&Lois" <jalo@...>
3. Re: Micro mooring (and anchoring)?
From: "Aaron Arguien" <aaronthekid@...>
4. Re: Re: Japanese Beach Cruiser
From: Richard Johnson <rishar_johnson2001@...>
5. Re: Japanese Beach Cruiser
From: "pvanderwaart" <pvanderwaart@...>
6. Re: Re: Japanese Beach Cruiser
From: Bruce Hallman <bruce@...>
7. Re: RE: Micro mooring (and anchoring)?
From: "Dawn and Derek" <dgw@...>
8. Re: Japanese Beach Cruiser
From: "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@...>
9. Re: Micro mooring (and anchoring)?
From: "dbaldnz" <oink@...>
10. Re: Japanese Beach Cruiser
From: "Nels" <arvent@...>
11. Re: Japanese Beach Cruiser
From: "pvanderwaart" <pvanderwaart@...>
12. Re: tools
From: "John B. Trussell" <John.Trussell@...>
13. Re: tools
From: "doug6949" <prototype@...>
14. Re: tools
From: "Nels" <arvent@...>
15. Enclosed Cruiser Option - aka MICRO NAVIGATOR
From: "Nels" <arvent@...>
16. Re: Chebacco Launching (or "where did he learn that language")
From: "jas_orr" <jas_orr@...>
17. Minnesota
From: Harry James <welshman@...>
18. low rate? an UNDERSTATEMENT!
From: "wczzpv5" <wczzpv5@...>


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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 07:16:11 -0400
From: craig o'donnell <dadadata@...>
Subject: Re: Yellow Leaf


>
>I was able to easily cartop it, alone, on top of my
>RV. I guess it weighs about 50 lbs. I modified the
>'standard' Yellow Leaf by adding the gunnel strips,
>[what the heck are those things called?]

Outwales... inwales. Like belly buttons.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________

-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________


________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 08:46:13 -0300
From: "Jack&Lois" <jalo@...>
Subject: RE: Micro mooring (and anchoring)?

Thanx to Derek and Aaron for you replies. Unfortunately, Aaron, I wasn't
able to access the site you sent. The problem might well be at my end. I'll
try again later. I'd love to see your arrangement. Very timely tips, Derek.
I'm just on my way into Halifax today to do some marine hardware shopping.
Extra chocks are now on the list. While I'm on the subject, do you have any
advice for mast stepping? Ed's colourful account of Chebacco launching
brings that concern to mind. I've been working on rigging the last couple of
days and have nearly pitched myself over the side several times while
stepping the main mast with the micro SITTING ON HER TRAILER, for crying out
loud! I have serious misgivings about this operation while afloat.




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2004 12:33:36 -0000
From: "Aaron Arguien" <aaronthekid@...>
Subject: Re: Micro mooring (and anchoring)?

Try this one....

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger4/files/

under A2's Micro....( you may have to register with Bolger 4 to view )

I practiced steping the mast about five times, before I got her on the
water. Did it twice out in the middle of the lake and had no
problems. But again, I believe my tabernacle is set up different than
yours.
Please if you get a chance, post up some pics of your boat.

I've got my '69 Star for sail right now on sailingtexas.com If I
can get a decent price for her, I'll be getting a "real" motor for the
micro and be out every weekend.
This time I'm gonna use the mizzen and see if that helps my tacking
and windward performance.

Good luck, keep practicing, and keep us posted.

A2


--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jack&Lois" <jalo@i...> wrote:
> Thanx to Derek and Aaron for you replies. Unfortunately, Aaron, I wasn't
> able to access the site you sent. The problem might well be at my
end. I'll
> try again later. I'd love to see your arrangement. Very timely tips,
Derek.
> I'm just on my way into Halifax today to do some marine hardware
shopping.
> Extra chocks are now on the list. While I'm on the subject, do you
have any
> advice for mast stepping? Ed's colourful account of Chebacco launching
> brings that concern to mind. I've been working on rigging the last
couple of
> days and have nearly pitched myself over the side several times while
> stepping the main mast with the micro SITTING ON HER TRAILER, for
crying out
> loud! I have serious misgivings about this operation while afloat.



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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 10:09:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Richard Johnson <rishar_johnson2001@...>
Subject: Re: Re: Japanese Beach Cruiser

One of this design has been built! I saw it at Grand
Barrachois in New Brunswick. Unfortunately, I did not
get the owner's name, nor photos of the boat. I have
been toying with the idea of building this little
vessel to explore the thin waters around the coast of
Nova Scotia (if this dream reaches fruition, photos
will be forthcoming). Personally, I would not be
concerned at all about tangling with the buoys used on
lobster pots. In the event of entanglement, which for
the most part I believe could easily be avoided,
simply change tack, lift the leeboad and disengage.

According to Bolger's description of the boat, he
designed it so that it would be stiffer than the
average sailboat of this size. He mentioned that it
would not be necessary to hike out over the rail to
sail her. I would guess that the statement is made
with the proviso that an appropriate amount of sail is
shown relative to wind force.

While the design appeals to me, I would find it hard
to resist one or two modifications. First I would rig
the main with a lug sail rather than a sprit. The
second change I'm not so sure of . . . the bilge seems
a mite slack at the stern so I am tempted to push the
second chine down and out a bit to give a bit more
bearing as she heeled. My reservation about this
change is that the more robust bilge at the stern
might cause the rudder to roll up and out of the water
somewhat, thereby reducing its power to control the
boat while heeled.

I've had several years experience sailing a Paceship
17 day sailer which has a typical modern sloop rig
with main and jib. In heavy winds, it does not lend
itself well to single handing. I've had two capsizes
to atest to that difficulty. To my eye, the Japanese
Beach Cruiser is ideal. The small mizzen will tend to
make the boat weather vane into the wind in a gust,
assuming one hands the main sheet in such conditions.

Barring unforseen circumstances, I am hoping next
summer will see me begin construction of my own
Japanese Beach Cruiser.

--- robt_l_hazard <robt_l_hazard@...> wrote:

> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman
> <bruce@h...> wrote:
> > > I am posting to ask whether anyone here has
> built the Japanese
> Beach
> > > Cruiser
> > > Anyone ever built her?
> >
> > About a dozen times in my mind's eye.
> >
> > What a great boat! Please build one and
> > take lots of photos to share!
>
> I daydream of spending a week in this boat nosing
> around the Deer
> Isle - Isle au Haut region of the Maine coast. But I
> wonder if she
> might be just a bit _too_ small, and possibly a bit
> tender under
> sail. I also am curious about how her leeboards
> would interact with
> the ubiquitous lobster buoys there.
>
> So I thought I might try to find someone who has
> built and sailed one
> before I invest in a set of plans.
>
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com


________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2004 17:30:39 -0000
From: "pvanderwaart" <pvanderwaart@...>
Subject: Re: Japanese Beach Cruiser

> ...the bilge seems
> a mite slack at the stern so I am tempted to push the
> second chine down and out a bit to give a bit more
> bearing as she heeled.

Bolger has written about this in several places including the
Spartina chapter of BWAOM. There is a trade-off in stern design. A
wide stern with a lot of bearing gives more power to carry sail and
a higher top speed, but requires that the live ballast keeps the
boat from heeling. If the boat heels and the bow goes down, the
sailing and handling suffer greatly. I would trust PCB. Besides, you
are not likely to change it enough to make a really big difference.

Down around where I am, I would be surprised if you capsized a
Paceship 17 once in a lifetime, though you probably could have
managed it yesterday since we had 20 kt winds and 3 1/2 ft seas (a
few 5' 'rogue waves' :)). It does suggest that you should have a rig
that is easy to reef and certainly the sprit does not shine in that
department. Your change to a lug could be an improvement. Chances
are that PCB used the sprit because the spars can be a little
shorter.

Peter




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 11:24:39 -0700
From: Bruce Hallman <bruce@...>
Subject: Re: Re: Japanese Beach Cruiser

I would be very reluctant to make changes to
Japanese Beach Cruiser, unless I was willing to
accept that the changes would be likely for the
worse! Second guessing Phil Bolger is usually
a bad bet.

Bolger wrote: "This craft would make a good ship's
boat with lifeboat capabilities."

Neither the chapter in Boats With an Open Mind,
nor the writeup in Small Boat Journal #68 illustrate
the 'thatched' shelter but I would be curious what he
had in mind of this.

The use of a vang to the peak of the sprit is new to me.

Anybody care to estimate the weight of the
completed boat?


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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 11:24:53 -0700
From: "Dawn and Derek" <dgw@...>
Subject: Re: RE: Micro mooring (and anchoring)?

Hullo Jack

Mast stepping. First, a caveat. My birdsmouth built, Chinese gaff rig mast
weighs about 35 pounds naked. I haven't bothered to weigh it with the blocks
and lines aloft, but the difference cannot be much. I can still tote it
fairly easily.

If you are trailering the boat to the water, why bother to step the mast
afloat, do it on the trailer. If things went wrong you would have further to
fall, but the additional stability underfoot cannot but help. We launch at a
public ramp most of the time and always rig ashore.

Here's how it works for me. I have the mast partner and fid arrangement
drawn on the standard Micro plans. I've added a small 'support rest' [which
is an inch or two high] to the roof of the cuddy, right atop the forward
bulkhead. The rest saves wear on the cuddy roof and mast [it's faced with an
offcut of UHMW] and arranges the geometry so that the mast can be rested in
place without fouling the sliding hatch. This is certainly needed with my
non-standard hatch...

Standing in the cockpit, pick up the mast at its balance point. Tuck the
step end of the mast under the partner and lower the mast until it rests on
the forward cuddy roof at the bulkhead. The mast will sit there,
cantilevered, while you step up onto the cuddy roof. You can now lift the
mast from back near the balance point and depress the step end, tucking the
foot of the mast under the inner reinforcements on the bow transom as you
go. That way if you have to pause to gather your thoughts, strength &c the
mast is just a weight on your shoulder rather than a thing with a mind of
its own. As the mast approaches vertical, concentrate on getting it into the
partner notch, ignoring the foot for the moment. One the stick is in the
notch then lifting it and aligning the foot and step socket is simple. Of
course if you are deft enough to get the foot into the socket first time, so
much the better :)

There are numerous ways in which this process could be automated with guides
&c, and while building the boat I spent some time contemplating them, but no
longer consider them worth pursuing. The little rest on the cuddy definitely
helps me; a couple of stubby posts attached to the forward face of that
bulkhead might serve a similar purpose.

If required, pictures are always a possibility [at least until the snows
arrive]

cheers
Derek



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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2004 18:28:37 -0000
From: "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@...>
Subject: Re: Japanese Beach Cruiser

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
> I would be very reluctant to make changes to
> Japanese Beach Cruiser, unless I was willing to
> accept that the changes would be likely for the
> worse! Second guessing Phil Bolger is usually
> a bad bet.


Heheh. ;)

Jason, glutin for punishment




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2004 20:16:14 -0000
From: "dbaldnz" <oink@...>
Subject: Re: Micro mooring (and anchoring)?

This is how I do it too Derek, after the initial debacle of trying to
lift it vertically from beside the boat, and drop in place, which
needed 12ft arms.
My mast is also quite light, much lighter than Jason's.
I have also taken it down in the reverse order as you put it up, on
the water, but very scarey...one slip and you could take the side out
of the boat.
If building again, I would definitely go for the tabernacle and hinged
mast....god awful ugly, but very practical.
DonB
> Standing in the cockpit, pick up the mast at its balance point. Tuck the
> step end of the mast under the partner and lower the mast until it
rests on
> the forward cuddy roof at the bulkhead. The mast will sit there,
> cantilevered, while you step up onto the cuddy roof. You can now
lift the
> mast from back near the balance point and depress the step end,
tucking the
> foot of the mast under the inner reinforcements on the bow transom
as you
> go. That way if you have to pause to gather your thoughts, strength
&c the
> mast is just a weight on your shoulder rather than a thing with a
mind of
> its own. As the mast approaches vertical, concentrate on getting it
into the
> partner notch, ignoring the foot for the moment. One the stick is in the
> notch then lifting it and aligning the foot and step socket is
simple. Of
> course if you are deft enough to get the foot into the socket first
time, so
> much the better :)
>
> There are numerous ways in which this process could be automated
with guides
> &c, and while building the boat I spent some time contemplating
them, but no
> longer consider them worth pursuing. The little rest on the cuddy
definitely
> helps me; a couple of stubby posts attached to the forward face of that
> bulkhead might serve a similar purpose.
>
> If required, pictures are always a possibility [at least until the snows
> arrive]
>
> cheers
> Derek



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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2004 20:59:46 -0000
From: "Nels" <arvent@...>
Subject: Re: Japanese Beach Cruiser

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Richard Johnson
<rishar_johnson2001@y...> wrote:
> One of this design has been built!

I would certainly try to track down the owner if possible. For
example - Any potential challenges if one wants to have a motor on it?

Sure be great to see some photos of one and compare to say an OLDSHOE.

Cheers, Nels



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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2004 22:59:31 -0000
From: "pvanderwaart" <pvanderwaart@...>
Subject: Re: Japanese Beach Cruiser


> Anybody care to estimate the weight of the
> completed boat?

Well, the plans are marked for 355Kg Displacement. Say 780 lbs.
Subtracting 400 lbs for two crew and gear gives 380 lbs.
Subjectively, that seems just a bit high. I would have guess the bare
hull at less than 300.

Bolger does allow quite a bit for gear and crew in a boat like this.

This illustrates some of his thinkig about the light quarters. This
boat is going to be two heavy to get up and plane, so it makes sense
to make it easy to handle since the loss of speed is minimal.

Peter



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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 19:38:45 -0400
From: "John B. Trussell" <John.Trussell@...>
Subject: Re: tools

It sometimes happens that when the pixies really hide one of my tools that I
have to call my wife to instnatly find it!

John T
----- Original Message -----
From: grant corson
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, September 06, 2004 4:36 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] tools


on 9/6/04 4:34 PM, grant corson atcorson@...wrote:

> There seems to be a third category of tool locations in my shop. That
is
> where the pixies have hidden them. I can put a tool down, turn around
to
> pick up a piece of wood and the tool has disappeared. Gone, not to be
found
> until the pixie or goblin or whatever evil little spirit has it is
willing
> to give it up.
> Grnat, still looking
(I see the little devil spelled my name wrong too, Grant :)
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>



Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com


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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 01:29:18 -0000
From: "doug6949" <prototype@...>
Subject: Re: tools

I have one of those dear wife pixies too. She equates cleaning with
putting things out of sight. It would not be uncommon to find the
angle grinder under the kitchen sink. Thus, I make a point of picking
up after myself.

Doug

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John B. Trussell" <John.Trussell@w...>
wrote:
> It sometimes happens that when the pixies really hide one of my
tools that I have to call my wife to instnatly find it!




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 03:04:55 -0000
From: "Nels" <arvent@...>
Subject: Re: tools

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "doug6949" <prototype@c...> wrote:
> I have one of those dear wife pixies too. She equates cleaning with
> putting things out of sight. It would not be uncommon to find the
> angle grinder under the kitchen sink. Thus, I make a point of
picking
> up after myself.
>
> Doug
>
Yes, my wife was like that too. She claimed things like tools did not
belong on the kitchen table;-)

Nels



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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 05:10:51 -0000
From: "Nels" <arvent@...>
Subject: Enclosed Cruiser Option - aka MICRO NAVIGATOR

Hi Jason,

I received the recently upgraded modification to MICRO which now goes
by the above name: ENCLOSED MICRO CRUISER. I ended up having to pay
some taxes on the plans since you checked off documents and our
Customs people are on a work slowdown, so it is a wonder I got them
this soon!

After wiping off the paw prints and dried epoxy spatters, I am still
trying to figure out how that new tabernacle system is supposed to
all work out, but so far I really love the looks of it!

The boat will be a full 16 feet long with the tabernacle almost
identical to FIJI's like you say. The rounded bow looks great and the
fillets in the bottom section are much like BWll. What is really neat
is how it opens up the forward well once the mast is in the bow. And
then there is access to it thought the forward bulkhead cutaway,
complete with drop boards and a hatch. There is also an added partial
decking over the forward well so that the halyards and other lines
can be run along the rails. This creates an open self-draining well
forward that is 30 inches long and over two feet wide, without
counting the foam on each side. And you can step from it into the
cabin. There is room for a lounge chair now:-)

The other thing that is of huge signifigance is the rig. All 245
square feet of it - which is some 60% more than the standard MICRO.

The only downside is small but significant. The amount of work
required to convert a MICRO to these options is probably equal to
building a standard MICRO.

But there is no doubt that you will end up with one hell of little
ship if you have the patience and ability.

And a LONG MICRO with those mods would truly be a poor man's FIJI or
at least a single person liveaboard, with offshore capability.






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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 05:21:24 -0000
From: "jas_orr" <jas_orr@...>
Subject: Re: Chebacco Launching (or "where did he learn that language")

Congratulations Ed! You did better than I did -- on my first attempt
at launching I couldn't get her off the trailer, had to drive another
15 miles to a steeper ramp.

Get that bridle or strap on the gaff good and tight, and make sure
your peak halyard isn't pulling downwards on it when you're fully
hoisted. This can happen if the peak halyard block is lower than the
bottom end of the bridle. I couldn't tell from your pictures whether
this was the case or not, but it's something else to try.

Looking forward to more pics, this time of Boudicea sailing briskly
along, or perhaps at anchor in some picturesque cove while the crew
relax with a glass of wine....

Jamie Orr

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Ed Heins" <eheins@c...> wrote:
> After 6 years 2 states and 4 places of residence, I managed to
launch Boudicea, the Chebacco that has doubled as a garage ornament
for far too long.
>
> We approached launching day with appropriate plans for celebration
including a christening bottle of some not-for-consumption concoction
all neatly enclosed in netting, blue blazers, and Deb, my British
Lady wife, well rehearsed in her best QE2 accent .
>
> All great ideas, however they didn't get used today. In fact we
launched into probably the most inappropriate venue I've ever seen.
(Unfortunately, while the Shenandoah Valley in Virginia is
resplendant in natural wonders, it exhibits a complete lack of
sailing water) Nevertheless, we dunked the boat and celebrations may
follow at a later date and location.
>
> The good news. 1) The trailer rig travelled without a hitch. It's
apparent I need a tongue extension for shallow ramps, but more on
that later. 2) we didn't take on any water we didn't understand. Yes,
the centerboard pivot leaks a bit, but that is a project yet to come.
3) I didn't fall off the boat, do a bad "Caber Tossing" impression
with the main mast, or otherwise. and 4) I arrived at the launch site
with everything I needed for a normal set up and launch.
>
> Now the bad news. 1) Lake Shenandoah ( a pond to anyone other than
a realtor), is small, narrow, shallow (something the locals are
either unaware of, or unwilling to share). Hence we had to push the
boat off the trailer, and reloading it was an experience. 2) I've got
a problem in the gaff rigging that will be resolved before the next
attempt at a sail. Please ignore the poor sail set in the attached
pics. 3) Probably the worst occurance however was a jammed
centerboard in the down position. I placed a block on the board to
give better purchase which worked well in dry tests, but apparently
after numerous groundings ( refer to item 1, !@###$%^ shallow pond)
the block has managed to twist in the trunk. We managed to get the
board back up, but damage assessment is on hold till the morrow. Oh
well, the great thing about building a boat, is that the repairs are
just a continuance of the project.
>
> Next on the agenda is the Atlantic small craft festival in St.
Michaels MD. I'm confident that my trailer rig will allow me to get
it there. Beyond that it's anybody's guess. If anyone should see a
statuesque British woman smacking a blue hulled Chebacco with a
netted bottle, be advised that things are probably going better the
second time around.
>
> Oh yea pics are going up in the Chebaccos folder
under "Boudicea" if space permits
>
> "Let the chips fall where they will..... I've got boats to build."
>
> Cheers y'all.
>
> Ed Heins
>
> New Market VA
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2004 21:36:04 -0800
From: Harry James <welshman@...>
Subject: Minnesota

I have returned from a year absence and I am unable to find some things
in the files. Not that it should be static anyway.

Somewhere used to be a file on an intermediate power sharpie longer than
Tennessee, shorter than Wyoming and maybe Dakota and I think it was
called Minnesota. Had an outhouse on the back. Is it still around?

HJ



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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 07:36:42 -0000
From: "wczzpv5" <wczzpv5@...>
Subject: low rate? an UNDERSTATEMENT!

Can you believe I refinanced my mortage and am saving $391 a month? Check it
out...

http://edgelending.net/?partid=rcc2

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This is how I do it too Derek, after the initial debacle of trying to
lift it vertically from beside the boat, and drop in place, which
needed 12ft arms.
My mast is also quite light, much lighter than Jason's.
I have also taken it down in the reverse order as you put it up, on
the water, but very scarey...one slip and you could take the side out
of the boat.
If building again, I would definitely go for the tabernacle and hinged
mast....god awful ugly, but very practical.
DonB
> Standing in the cockpit, pick up the mast at its balance point. Tuck the
> step end of the mast under the partner and lower the mast until it
rests on
> the forward cuddy roof at the bulkhead. The mast will sit there,
> cantilevered, while you step up onto the cuddy roof. You can now
lift the
> mast from back near the balance point and depress the step end,
tucking the
> foot of the mast under the inner reinforcements on the bow transom
as you
> go. That way if you have to pause to gather your thoughts, strength
&c the
> mast is just a weight on your shoulder rather than a thing with a
mind of
> its own. As the mast approaches vertical, concentrate on getting it
into the
> partner notch, ignoring the foot for the moment. One the stick is in the
> notch then lifting it and aligning the foot and step socket is
simple. Of
> course if you are deft enough to get the foot into the socket first
time, so
> much the better :)
>
> There are numerous ways in which this process could be automated
with guides
> &c, and while building the boat I spent some time contemplating
them, but no
> longer consider them worth pursuing. The little rest on the cuddy
definitely
> helps me; a couple of stubby posts attached to the forward face of that
> bulkhead might serve a similar purpose.
>
> If required, pictures are always a possibility [at least until the snows
> arrive]
>
> cheers
> Derek
Hullo Jack

Mast stepping. First, a caveat. My birdsmouth built, Chinese gaff rig mast
weighs about 35 pounds naked. I haven't bothered to weigh it with the blocks
and lines aloft, but the difference cannot be much. I can still tote it
fairly easily.

If you are trailering the boat to the water, why bother to step the mast
afloat, do it on the trailer. If things went wrong you would have further to
fall, but the additional stability underfoot cannot but help. We launch at a
public ramp most of the time and always rig ashore.

Here's how it works for me. I have the mast partner and fid arrangement
drawn on the standard Micro plans. I've added a small 'support rest' [which
is an inch or two high] to the roof of the cuddy, right atop the forward
bulkhead. The rest saves wear on the cuddy roof and mast [it's faced with an
offcut of UHMW] and arranges the geometry so that the mast can be rested in
place without fouling the sliding hatch. This is certainly needed with my
non-standard hatch...

Standing in the cockpit, pick up the mast at its balance point. Tuck the
step end of the mast under the partner and lower the mast until it rests on
the forward cuddy roof at the bulkhead. The mast will sit there,
cantilevered, while you step up onto the cuddy roof. You can now lift the
mast from back near the balance point and depress the step end, tucking the
foot of the mast under the inner reinforcements on the bow transom as you
go. That way if you have to pause to gather your thoughts, strength &c the
mast is just a weight on your shoulder rather than a thing with a mind of
its own. As the mast approaches vertical, concentrate on getting it into the
partner notch, ignoring the foot for the moment. One the stick is in the
notch then lifting it and aligning the foot and step socket is simple. Of
course if you are deft enough to get the foot into the socket first time, so
much the better :)

There are numerous ways in which this process could be automated with guides
&c, and while building the boat I spent some time contemplating them, but no
longer consider them worth pursuing. The little rest on the cuddy definitely
helps me; a couple of stubby posts attached to the forward face of that
bulkhead might serve a similar purpose.

If required, pictures are always a possibility [at least until the snows
arrive]

cheers
Derek
Try this one....

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger4/files/

under A2's Micro....( you may have to register with Bolger 4 to view )

I practiced steping the mast about five times, before I got her on the
water. Did it twice out in the middle of the lake and had no
problems. But again, I believe my tabernacle is set up different than
yours.
Please if you get a chance, post up some pics of your boat.

I've got my '69 Star for sail right now on sailingtexas.com If I
can get a decent price for her, I'll be getting a "real" motor for the
micro and be out every weekend.
This time I'm gonna use the mizzen and see if that helps my tacking
and windward performance.

Good luck, keep practicing, and keep us posted.

A2


--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jack&Lois" <jalo@i...> wrote:
> Thanx to Derek and Aaron for you replies. Unfortunately, Aaron, I wasn't
> able to access the site you sent. The problem might well be at my
end. I'll
> try again later. I'd love to see your arrangement. Very timely tips,
Derek.
> I'm just on my way into Halifax today to do some marine hardware
shopping.
> Extra chocks are now on the list. While I'm on the subject, do you
have any
> advice for mast stepping? Ed's colourful account of Chebacco launching
> brings that concern to mind. I've been working on rigging the last
couple of
> days and have nearly pitched myself over the side several times while
> stepping the main mast with the micro SITTING ON HER TRAILER, for
crying out
> loud! I have serious misgivings about this operation while afloat.
Thanx to Derek and Aaron for you replies. Unfortunately, Aaron, I wasn't
able to access the site you sent. The problem might well be at my end. I'll
try again later. I'd love to see your arrangement. Very timely tips, Derek.
I'm just on my way into Halifax today to do some marine hardware shopping.
Extra chocks are now on the list. While I'm on the subject, do you have any
advice for mast stepping? Ed's colourful account of Chebacco launching
brings that concern to mind. I've been working on rigging the last couple of
days and have nearly pitched myself over the side several times while
stepping the main mast with the micro SITTING ON HER TRAILER, for crying out
loud! I have serious misgivings about this operation while afloat.
Although my tabernacle is not in the same place as yours you can see
how my micro is set up here
http://f2.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/EAg9QYKSdhTcvDIRuAUO3NI-U0lMMNhGqeacVBxsIn0NsjSo_NyGTTMFWzC53UoGMz1NSwutbQwjlFSCFv_zWytwYJHa7EseCIs/A2%27s%20Micro/100_2213.JPG

A2
San Marcos, Texas
Hullo Jack

My 2c:

Some sort of chafe protection is almost a necessity, unless you want to
spend an eternity on touching up paint, IMO.
Chocks on gunwale just forward of the transom cap don't snag sheets and are
well worth while for mooring alongside. Ditto small chocks for breast lines
on after cuddy roof. We have three chocks forward of the partner, P, S &
centreline. The centreline chock is probably overkill - I just made a
rounded notch in a sacrificial hardwood cap for the transom. Don't put a
chock in the footholds if you plan to use them, even [particularly] as a
safety device. Once you are in the water, Micro's gunwales are a long way
above you :) We board after swimming via a rope ladder and the footholes.
The rope ladder attaches to a big stainless U-bolt through the bottom of the
bow transom. That same U-bolt takes the trailer winch hook, and a big
stainless carabiner for snubbing the rode.
One option is to make off the bitter end of the rode to a big cleat or
W.H.Y. on the inner face of the bow transom and lead the rode up and back
over the partner. The anchor and chain can be easily retrieved and deployed
from the well. Once the chain is below the surface the rope portion can be
handled easily enough to pass through the centreline chock. I'm still
working on a better rode retainer than the current plastic crate....

cheers
Derek
I am not able to determine from Micro plans (extremely sun-faded and
yellowed) just how best to chock an anchor rode or mooring line. Would it be
a bad idea to place a chock in one of the boarding "ladder" holes in the bow
transom? Could the rode be comfortably reached from standing in the forward
free flooding compartment (I've got very long arms)? If placed at gunwale
level can a chock be to the right or left of centre without compromising
alignment with tidal current when at anchor? Are chocks along the aft
gunwales a good idea (for tying up to floats or rafting up, etc.), or would
they just invite main-sheet tangling? Will dealing with these final details
never end!!?

Jeb, still high and dry on the autumnal shores of Fundy