Re: micro keel?
Bruce,
I agree...
I did not mean to drink the beer ahead of time, I meant after the
event had concluded. This is the most dangerous part of the
operation, the keel fell on me as I was installing it and threw my
shoulder out for months. Help is warranted here.
David Jost
I agree...
I did not mean to drink the beer ahead of time, I meant after the
event had concluded. This is the most dangerous part of the
operation, the keel fell on me as I was installing it and threw my
shoulder out for months. Help is warranted here.
David Jost
>
> Helpers might be nice, but I mounted my ballast single handed.
> Beer would be best saved until after work was done,
> because I feel that mounting the lead, and crawling
> around on your back under the boat was probably
> the most dangerous phase of my construction.
> [ya could get squished]
> I applied the sheathing to the keel batten with copious amounts ofI used glue and lots of the short galvanized 'Simpson' hanger,
> epoxy and bronze nails. It won't come apart, ever.
12 gauge nails, sold at Home Depot. They drive
into the lead with a short handled 2 lb 'sledge' hammer.
I don't think mine will come apart, ever, either.
Bolger says epoxy glue and 3" spacing on the nails
[or screws] around all edges, and 6" checkerboard
in the center areas.
I agree that it is awkward to position the lead casting,
under the boat but after some trial an error, I discovered
that was easier after building an impromptu cradle,
mounted on a piece of plywood, acting as a dolly.
I rolled the dolly around on lengths of 1" diameter pipe.
I still believe that mounting the lead after fitout
of the cabin is worth the trouble, due to the thousand
trips you need to make up and down to build the finish
work in the cabin.
Helpers might be nice, but I mounted my ballast single handed.
Beer would be best saved until after work was done,
because I feel that mounting the lead, and crawling
around on your back under the boat was probably
the most dangerous phase of my construction.
[ya could get squished]
I applied the sheathing to the keel batten with copious amounts of
epoxy and bronze nails. It won't come apart, ever.
The hardest part I had was getting the keel in against the
sheathing. I recommend Peter Lenihan's method for building Micro's
keel. It is much easier to install with the keel bolts simply
attaching the lead slug to the hull in a normal manner. If I were to
do it again...and I won't...I would also enlist helpers at this
stage. Free beer works well.
David Jost
"finishing up a POinty Skiff in the garage"
epoxy and bronze nails. It won't come apart, ever.
The hardest part I had was getting the keel in against the
sheathing. I recommend Peter Lenihan's method for building Micro's
keel. It is much easier to install with the keel bolts simply
attaching the lead slug to the hull in a normal manner. If I were to
do it again...and I won't...I would also enlist helpers at this
stage. Free beer works well.
David Jost
"finishing up a POinty Skiff in the garage"
I don't know what a sheathing to batten connection is...
On Thu, 16 Sep 2004 21:56:18 -0000, Jason Stancil
<jasonstancil@...> wrote:
On Thu, 16 Sep 2004 21:56:18 -0000, Jason Stancil
<jasonstancil@...> wrote:
> Bruce,
> Thanks, Thats what i thought. What about the sheathing to batten
> connection? The thesis has accumulated so much space in my house if
> it's paper i can't find it anymore.
> Thanks,
> Again
Bruce,
Thanks, Thats what i thought. What about the sheathing to batten
connection? The thesis has accumulated so much space in my house if
it's paper i can't find it anymore.
Thanks,
Again
Thanks, Thats what i thought. What about the sheathing to batten
connection? The thesis has accumulated so much space in my house if
it's paper i can't find it anymore.
Thanks,
Again
Note 14.
"Keel batten 1 1/2" square, carefully glued to bottom; 1/4" or 3/8"
bolt through each butt strap; 1 1/2" large-guage screws from inside of
bottom on about 3" spacing and staggered as much as possible. Batten
extends from bow to vertical sternpost."
"Keel batten 1 1/2" square, carefully glued to bottom; 1/4" or 3/8"
bolt through each butt strap; 1 1/2" large-guage screws from inside of
bottom on about 3" spacing and staggered as much as possible. Batten
extends from bow to vertical sternpost."
hey folks, i'm a dumb a@#. I lost my micro building key. Thought i
had it memorized, but i guess not. I've got my batton on with 1/4 ss
bolts though the butt straps plus a few screws as needed to hold it
in place while the epoxy cured. What does the key say do?....more
screws? I think i recall the keel sheathing is attached with epoxy
and scews every 2 or 3 inches.....am i right or wrong?
Thanks,
Jason
Glassing up the sheathing now trying to get it perfect before towing
that 445 lbs monster under the boat for instalation......think i may
lose a figure before it's secured :)
had it memorized, but i guess not. I've got my batton on with 1/4 ss
bolts though the butt straps plus a few screws as needed to hold it
in place while the epoxy cured. What does the key say do?....more
screws? I think i recall the keel sheathing is attached with epoxy
and scews every 2 or 3 inches.....am i right or wrong?
Thanks,
Jason
Glassing up the sheathing now trying to get it perfect before towing
that 445 lbs monster under the boat for instalation......think i may
lose a figure before it's secured :)