Re: best rowing boat
Hello Rob B
We all are happy about the Teals but we tend to be happy in general
too.
My kids 13 and 11 sail one while I stand watch under oar power in the
other one. They love the boat. I plan to change the rudder to a kick-
up rudder because that is the only thing sticking under the boat. At
the present the lee-board hungs over the side with a retaining strop
threaded in the middle of the frame so when we tack we have to tack
the leeboard too which is a bit wet but OK otherwise. I might hinge
it on a bolt stuck in the middle of the side.
I rigged the Teal as a standing lugger with a 65 sqft sail which is a
lot and no boom which is nice against clutter but slightly unstable
down wind. I was watching my kids starting a death roll last week-end
but the helmsman was excellent and jibed without mishap.
I was sailing the other day with my wife and the boat is adequate
even with 2 adults (we are light weight people at 120 kg).
I rowed 6 nautical miles on the coast the other day in less than 2
hours without effort. I think that a good performance for a little
boat like the Teal.
Cheers
Thierry
Lunenburg, Nova Scotia
boat for rowing/sailing to join the fun.
We all are happy about the Teals but we tend to be happy in general
too.
My kids 13 and 11 sail one while I stand watch under oar power in the
other one. They love the boat. I plan to change the rudder to a kick-
up rudder because that is the only thing sticking under the boat. At
the present the lee-board hungs over the side with a retaining strop
threaded in the middle of the frame so when we tack we have to tack
the leeboard too which is a bit wet but OK otherwise. I might hinge
it on a bolt stuck in the middle of the side.
I rigged the Teal as a standing lugger with a 65 sqft sail which is a
lot and no boom which is nice against clutter but slightly unstable
down wind. I was watching my kids starting a death roll last week-end
but the helmsman was excellent and jibed without mishap.
I was sailing the other day with my wife and the boat is adequate
even with 2 adults (we are light weight people at 120 kg).
I rowed 6 nautical miles on the coast the other day in less than 2
hours without effort. I think that a good performance for a little
boat like the Teal.
Cheers
Thierry
Lunenburg, Nova Scotia
> Hi Thierry,getting back to dinghy sailing in my club and it looks like the ideal
> How does Teal performan under sail quick and steady etc. We are
boat for rowing/sailing to join the fun.
>
> Rob B
> Adelaide
> South Australia
Hi Thierry,
How does Teal performan under sail quick and steady etc. We are getting back to dinghy sailing in my club and it looks like the ideal boat for rowing/sailing to join the fun.
Rob B
Adelaide
South Australia
How does Teal performan under sail quick and steady etc. We are getting back to dinghy sailing in my club and it looks like the ideal boat for rowing/sailing to join the fun.
Rob B
Adelaide
South Australia
----- Original Message -----
From: Thierry
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2004 9:16 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: best rowing boat
I built a couple of 12' Teals by Bolger this summer. Easy to build,
easy to cartop, easy to row. We sail them too with a leeboard.
Good in a chop rowing alone. I do 3.3 knots without effort on a mile,
as good as a seakayak. Even the seat as designed is OK with a piece
of foam as a cushion
Cost me CAN$250 each including tarp sail and oars.
Cheers
Thierry
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> I don't recall if either Crystal or Spur II would beMy Spur II is heavy, but under 100 lbs. I cartop it,
> cartopable. I suspect that Spur II would be too heavy
and can carry it single handed by balancing it
upside down across my shoulders under the
center seat acting like a yoke. The 16 feet
of length is trouble with any wind, and I have
a custom L shaped device in my trailer hitch
to support the stern end because it is longer than
the roof of my car.
> I don't recall if either Crystal or Spur II would beWilliam Garden set 100 lbs as the upper limit for a boat to be rowed
> cartopable. I suspect that Spur II would be too heavy
> and Crystal could be, especially if the watertight
> compartments are fitted.
purely for recreational pleasure. I'm sure the "lifeboat" version of
Crystal would be very close, if not well over that limit.
Peter
I asked Phil and Susanne what boat they'd recommend
for substantially the same purposes. I think they said
Crystal.
I knew I should have written it down.
They like and, I believe, Susanne built Spur II.
Perhaps Montgomery built Spur II. The builder wasn't a
topic of our conversation. Anyway Spur II was hanging
up in the basement with yet another boat inside her.
As I recall our conversation they thought that Spur II
was much more difficult to build.
I don't recall if either Crystal or Spur II would be
cartopable. I suspect that Spur II would be too heavy
and Crystal could be, especially if the watertight
compartments are fitted. (I hope I've got the design
name right.)
I got to preview the raw footage of the Birdwatcher
video. It is pretty amazing stuff. Great stability.
Susanne held down the mast head on the floating dock
and then released it with Phil aboard and standing on
the downhill or water side. Susanne released the
masthead. Birdwatcher righted and with two or three
mild oscillations was upright and stable and totally
dry. Phil pointed out that although the motor mount
was not designed in on Birdwatcher I, the motor mount
was totally dry even though it was on the wet side. If
the motor had been mounted, I suspect they took it off
before as they knew they were going to have her over
on her beam ends. The motor would have been dry too,
even in a knock down.
Birdwatcher rows well, with Phil at the oars. Phil is
a good oarsman but he's no spring chicken. Very
impressive boat. Phil believes that it is his most
important design. He likes Birdwatcher better than
Birdwatcher II but he's enamored with minimalism. They
are happy with the sales of plans.
Phil Smith
--- bobmas473 <Maselek_Robert@...> wrote:
for substantially the same purposes. I think they said
Crystal.
I knew I should have written it down.
They like and, I believe, Susanne built Spur II.
Perhaps Montgomery built Spur II. The builder wasn't a
topic of our conversation. Anyway Spur II was hanging
up in the basement with yet another boat inside her.
As I recall our conversation they thought that Spur II
was much more difficult to build.
I don't recall if either Crystal or Spur II would be
cartopable. I suspect that Spur II would be too heavy
and Crystal could be, especially if the watertight
compartments are fitted. (I hope I've got the design
name right.)
I got to preview the raw footage of the Birdwatcher
video. It is pretty amazing stuff. Great stability.
Susanne held down the mast head on the floating dock
and then released it with Phil aboard and standing on
the downhill or water side. Susanne released the
masthead. Birdwatcher righted and with two or three
mild oscillations was upright and stable and totally
dry. Phil pointed out that although the motor mount
was not designed in on Birdwatcher I, the motor mount
was totally dry even though it was on the wet side. If
the motor had been mounted, I suspect they took it off
before as they knew they were going to have her over
on her beam ends. The motor would have been dry too,
even in a knock down.
Birdwatcher rows well, with Phil at the oars. Phil is
a good oarsman but he's no spring chicken. Very
impressive boat. Phil believes that it is his most
important design. He likes Birdwatcher better than
Birdwatcher II but he's enamored with minimalism. They
are happy with the sales of plans.
Phil Smith
--- bobmas473 <Maselek_Robert@...> wrote:
> I'm new to boats and building them, but would likehttp://us.click.yahoo.com/J8kdrA/y20IAA/yQLSAA/_0TolB/TM
> to try my hand at
> building a light, car-toppable good fast Bolger type
> fixed- seat
> rowboat for exercize. I would primarilly use it on
> lakes and
> protected bays, but conceivably a good chop might
> come up
> occasionally. Something relatively fast so that it
> keeps me
> motovated but still a boat rather than a scull. Any
> and all
> suggestions appreciated. Thanks/Bob
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or
> flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed,
> thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts,
> and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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I've always been partial to Pooh Sticks, although the
design is not much of a load carrier, it is a
likeable-looking boat in pictures. Love to see one on
the water.
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design is not much of a load carrier, it is a
likeable-looking boat in pictures. Love to see one on
the water.
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> Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:I estimate that building a Spur II would be just as easy
> Both Gypsy and Cartopper are fine designs, but they are designed as
> sailing boats. They row well, but you should go for a boat designed for
> the purpose.
as building a Gypsy or a Cartopper, and that the
Spur II is a GREAT rowboat, where the other two
are just great rowboats.
Both Gypsy and Cartopper are fine designs, but they are designed as
sailing boats. They row well, but you should go for a boat designed for
the purpose. I like the Bolger Dory (two in the back yard) or the
Welsford Seagull.
HJ
Nels wrote:
sailing boats. They row well, but you should go for a boat designed for
the purpose. I like the Bolger Dory (two in the back yard) or the
Welsford Seagull.
HJ
Nels wrote:
>--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, jhkohnen@b... wrote:
>
>
>>>Depending on how much rowing performance you think you need, there
>>>are Surf, June Bug, Sweet Pea, and Crystal.
>>>...
>>>
>>>
>>--
>> And CARTOPPER:-)
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>.
>
>
>
Thanks to everyone who replied. That is one of the best features of
these lists. You can ask a question and get a multitude of great
answers and information from people who know./Bob
these lists. You can ask a question and get a multitude of great
answers and information from people who know./Bob
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, jhkohnen@b... wrote:
> > Depending on how much rowing performance you think you need, there
> > are Surf, June Bug, Sweet Pea, and Crystal.
> > ...
>
> --
> And CARTOPPER:-)
To that list should be added Gypsy. She's a real slippery shape. One of the
first Gypsies built didn't have a sailing rig and was taken on a long rowing
voyage which was chronicled in Small Boat Journal:
http://www.instantboats.com/gypsy.htm
first Gypsies built didn't have a sailing rig and was taken on a long rowing
voyage which was chronicled in Small Boat Journal:
http://www.instantboats.com/gypsy.htm
On Wed, 22 Sep 2004 17:59:36 -0000, Peter wrote:
>
> Depending on how much rowing performance you think you need, there
> are Surf, June Bug, Sweet Pea, and Crystal.
> ...
--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.boat-links.com/
One boat just leads to another.
<John Kohnen>
I think the consencus is there is no "best" rowing boat.
All the ones suggested are "very good" rowing boats, and fit your
published needs.
After this, it becomes a matter of taste and preference.
Build one, (or more, it does tend to become addictive) post photos
and bring it to a messabout where you can try others.
Welcome to the club!
Bruce Hector
Anticipating trying a new rowboat soon.
All the ones suggested are "very good" rowing boats, and fit your
published needs.
After this, it becomes a matter of taste and preference.
Build one, (or more, it does tend to become addictive) post photos
and bring it to a messabout where you can try others.
Welcome to the club!
Bruce Hector
Anticipating trying a new rowboat soon.
I built a couple of 12' Teals by Bolger this summer. Easy to build,
easy to cartop, easy to row. We sail them too with a leeboard.
Good in a chop rowing alone. I do 3.3 knots without effort on a mile,
as good as a seakayak. Even the seat as designed is OK with a piece
of foam as a cushion
Cost me CAN$250 each including tarp sail and oars.
Cheers
Thierry
easy to cartop, easy to row. We sail them too with a leeboard.
Good in a chop rowing alone. I do 3.3 knots without effort on a mile,
as good as a seakayak. Even the seat as designed is OK with a piece
of foam as a cushion
Cost me CAN$250 each including tarp sail and oars.
Cheers
Thierry
There are a huge number of choices, Michalak offers a nunmber of his own designs plus syitch and glue versions of Pete Culler's Otter and the 17 ft Hereshoff row boat. Bolger offers the Light Dory/Gloucester Gull Dory, Spur II, Thomaston Galley, Crystal, etc. etc. Ian Oughtred offers skiffs, dories, and faerings (his Elf is exquisite). And there are many others as well. You need to decide what kind of water you will be rowing in, how many people you want to carry, what sort of use you're planning (rowing--fishing--cruising....) and choose the boat that you think might work. Bolger's Gloucester Gull and Oughtred's Elf will probably meet most of your wants.
John T
John T
----- Original Message -----
From: Lincoln Ross
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2004 6:36 PM
Subject: [bolger] re: best rowing boat
If I wanted a fast rowing boat and needed to handle moderate but not
severe waves, I would give a serious look to several of the Michalak
rowing boats. They are pretty simple and on some an attempt is made at a
long waterline and at light weight.
If I needed the rough water ability, I might consider Bolger's Light
Dory Type 5, or maybe Crystal. I do think about building the Type 5
often, and getting rid of the misshapen (due to construction error) Roar
2. I find the Roar 2 pretty easy to cartop, but it probably depends on
how it's built.
The Welsford Seagull seemed one smidgeon slower than some skinnier
boats, but it's a lot faster if the other, less stable boat tips over.
Probably not a problem unless someone does something dumb, and I
definitely liked the Seagull that Bruce built. Much calmer changing
places underway.
I'll bet none of these boats are as fast as my Mom's Pisquataqua Wherry,
but I don't think they'd let any of us use the mold, and the price from
the manufacturer is high. Also, all that fiberglass is quite heavy.
Lincoln Ross
Bolger rules!!!
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- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
If I wanted a fast rowing boat and needed to handle moderate but not
severe waves, I would give a serious look to several of the Michalak
rowing boats. They are pretty simple and on some an attempt is made at a
long waterline and at light weight.
If I needed the rough water ability, I might consider Bolger's Light
Dory Type 5, or maybe Crystal. I do think about building the Type 5
often, and getting rid of the misshapen (due to construction error) Roar
2. I find the Roar 2 pretty easy to cartop, but it probably depends on
how it's built.
The Welsford Seagull seemed one smidgeon slower than some skinnier
boats, but it's a lot faster if the other, less stable boat tips over.
Probably not a problem unless someone does something dumb, and I
definitely liked the Seagull that Bruce built. Much calmer changing
places underway.
I'll bet none of these boats are as fast as my Mom's Pisquataqua Wherry,
but I don't think they'd let any of us use the mold, and the price from
the manufacturer is high. Also, all that fiberglass is quite heavy.
Lincoln Ross
severe waves, I would give a serious look to several of the Michalak
rowing boats. They are pretty simple and on some an attempt is made at a
long waterline and at light weight.
If I needed the rough water ability, I might consider Bolger's Light
Dory Type 5, or maybe Crystal. I do think about building the Type 5
often, and getting rid of the misshapen (due to construction error) Roar
2. I find the Roar 2 pretty easy to cartop, but it probably depends on
how it's built.
The Welsford Seagull seemed one smidgeon slower than some skinnier
boats, but it's a lot faster if the other, less stable boat tips over.
Probably not a problem unless someone does something dumb, and I
definitely liked the Seagull that Bruce built. Much calmer changing
places underway.
I'll bet none of these boats are as fast as my Mom's Pisquataqua Wherry,
but I don't think they'd let any of us use the mold, and the price from
the manufacturer is high. Also, all that fiberglass is quite heavy.
Lincoln Ross
Yeah, for what it's worth, a buddy of mine built Gypsy up at Great Lakes
Naval Training Center (just North of Chicago, IL), which he
sailed/paddled/motored a lot in Lake Michigan. We were stationed up there
from Dec through the following November, and he started construction in
January, finished in March, and did a whole lot of boating (mostly fishing)
between mid-April and mid-November. He never had any problems, no matter
the weather, with the exception of a storm that blew in from the NW when he
was King Salmon fishing. His little 2.5HP outboard couldn't push the boat
into the wind and waves until he unstepped the mast, which he promptly lost
overboard along with his sails, much to his dismay... On the other hand,
getting back to shore safely was his main concern, so it was all good!
-----Original Message-----
From: Howard Stephenson [mailto:stephensonhw@...]
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2004 3:02 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: best rowing boat
Bob,
I wouldn't go past Gypsy. Seehttp://www.instantboats.com/gypsy.htm
It's meant to be propelled by sail, outboard or oars. Re the photo of the
man you see there rowing it: the caption in the book (see below) says he
rowed it from Pleasant Beach to Beals Island, Maine, a distance of 100
miles. Doesn't say how many days, though.
It requires 5 or 6 sheets of 1/4" ply to build it tack-and-tape.
There are over 20 pages of building instructions, with numerous photos and
drawings, in Payson's "Build the New Instant Boats". If you want it for
rowing only, you'd save quite a lot of time by not having to build the
centreboard case, rudder etc. And if you changed your mind later, you could
always convert it for sailing.
Payson says the hull weighs 150lb without the sailing rig but, I suppose,
with the centreboard case. Not sure whether that's a feasible cartopper.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "bobmas473" <Maselek_Robert@E...>
wrote:
a clean sweep of pop-up ads. Yahoo! Companion Toolbar.
Now with Pop-Up Blocker. Get it for free!
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--------------------------------------------------------------------~->
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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Naval Training Center (just North of Chicago, IL), which he
sailed/paddled/motored a lot in Lake Michigan. We were stationed up there
from Dec through the following November, and he started construction in
January, finished in March, and did a whole lot of boating (mostly fishing)
between mid-April and mid-November. He never had any problems, no matter
the weather, with the exception of a storm that blew in from the NW when he
was King Salmon fishing. His little 2.5HP outboard couldn't push the boat
into the wind and waves until he unstepped the mast, which he promptly lost
overboard along with his sails, much to his dismay... On the other hand,
getting back to shore safely was his main concern, so it was all good!
-----Original Message-----
From: Howard Stephenson [mailto:stephensonhw@...]
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2004 3:02 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: best rowing boat
Bob,
I wouldn't go past Gypsy. Seehttp://www.instantboats.com/gypsy.htm
It's meant to be propelled by sail, outboard or oars. Re the photo of the
man you see there rowing it: the caption in the book (see below) says he
rowed it from Pleasant Beach to Beals Island, Maine, a distance of 100
miles. Doesn't say how many days, though.
It requires 5 or 6 sheets of 1/4" ply to build it tack-and-tape.
There are over 20 pages of building instructions, with numerous photos and
drawings, in Payson's "Build the New Instant Boats". If you want it for
rowing only, you'd save quite a lot of time by not having to build the
centreboard case, rudder etc. And if you changed your mind later, you could
always convert it for sailing.
Payson says the hull weighs 150lb without the sailing rig but, I suppose,
with the centreboard case. Not sure whether that's a feasible cartopper.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "bobmas473" <Maselek_Robert@E...>
wrote:
> I'm new to boats and building them, but would like to try my handat
> building a light, car-toppable good fast Bolger type fixed- seat------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~--> Make
> rowboat for exercize. I would primarilly use it on lakes and protected
> bays, but conceivably a good chop might come up occasionally.
> Something relatively fast so that it keeps me motovated but still a
> boat rather than a scull. Any and all suggestions appreciated.
> Thanks/Bob
a clean sweep of pop-up ads. Yahoo! Companion Toolbar.
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- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
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Yahoo! Groups Links
Bob,
I wouldn't go past Gypsy. Seehttp://www.instantboats.com/gypsy.htm
It's meant to be propelled by sail, outboard or oars. Re the photo of
the man you see there rowing it: the caption in the book (see below)
says he rowed it from Pleasant Beach to Beals Island, Maine, a
distance of 100 miles. Doesn't say how many days, though.
It requires 5 or 6 sheets of 1/4" ply to build it tack-and-tape.
There are over 20 pages of building instructions, with numerous
photos and drawings, in Payson's "Build the New Instant Boats". If
you want it for rowing only, you'd save quite a lot of time by not
having to build the centreboard case, rudder etc. And if you changed
your mind later, you could always convert it for sailing.
Payson says the hull weighs 150lb without the sailing rig but, I
suppose, with the centreboard case. Not sure whether that's a
feasible cartopper.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "bobmas473" <Maselek_Robert@E...>
wrote:
I wouldn't go past Gypsy. Seehttp://www.instantboats.com/gypsy.htm
It's meant to be propelled by sail, outboard or oars. Re the photo of
the man you see there rowing it: the caption in the book (see below)
says he rowed it from Pleasant Beach to Beals Island, Maine, a
distance of 100 miles. Doesn't say how many days, though.
It requires 5 or 6 sheets of 1/4" ply to build it tack-and-tape.
There are over 20 pages of building instructions, with numerous
photos and drawings, in Payson's "Build the New Instant Boats". If
you want it for rowing only, you'd save quite a lot of time by not
having to build the centreboard case, rudder etc. And if you changed
your mind later, you could always convert it for sailing.
Payson says the hull weighs 150lb without the sailing rig but, I
suppose, with the centreboard case. Not sure whether that's a
feasible cartopper.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "bobmas473" <Maselek_Robert@E...>
wrote:
> I'm new to boats and building them, but would like to try my handat
> building a light, car-toppable good fast Bolger type fixed- seat
> rowboat for exercize. I would primarilly use it on lakes and
> protected bays, but conceivably a good chop might come up
> occasionally. Something relatively fast so that it keeps me
> motovated but still a boat rather than a scull. Any and all
> suggestions appreciated. Thanks/Bob
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "bobmas473" <Maselek_Robert@E...>
wrote: "would like to try my hand at building a light, car-toppable
good fast Bolger type fixed- seat rowboat for exercize."
Hi Bob,
Let me chime in with a recomendation for John Welsford's Seagull,
plans from Duckworks at:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/store/plans/jw/seagull/index.htm
In my opinion, a great rowboat, fast, stable, load carrier and very
sleek. The slightly smaller Setnet Dinghy of his is an easier
cartop, but I mange the Seagull on roof racks with a helper.
Bruce Hector
wrote: "would like to try my hand at building a light, car-toppable
good fast Bolger type fixed- seat rowboat for exercize."
Hi Bob,
Let me chime in with a recomendation for John Welsford's Seagull,
plans from Duckworks at:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/store/plans/jw/seagull/index.htm
In my opinion, a great rowboat, fast, stable, load carrier and very
sleek. The slightly smaller Setnet Dinghy of his is an easier
cartop, but I mange the Seagull on roof racks with a helper.
Bruce Hector
On the 3 Gull dories we built summer before last we taped 2 stems and
used a solid stem for a third. We used chine logs on all. I found the
stem taping somewhat easier, the person who made the solid stem is a
skilled woodworker and she enjoyed the process. I became absolutely
convinced on this project that trying to save money using AC plywood is
not worth it.
HJ
used a solid stem for a third. We used chine logs on all. I found the
stem taping somewhat easier, the person who made the solid stem is a
skilled woodworker and she enjoyed the process. I became absolutely
convinced on this project that trying to save money using AC plywood is
not worth it.
HJ
>I taped the chines on my Gull, and the stem as well. If I had it to
>do over, I'd tape the stem, but use chine logs for the chines. The
>stem that the plans call for requires some skillful bandsaw work on a
>spendy piece of hardwood to come out right, but the bow is sharp
>enough that a decent fillet of epoxy behind some tape will be very
>strong, and much easier to make. By contrast, the obtuse angle of the
>chines doesn't give you much extra strength; your seams will still
>come out watertight, but without the stiffness that the chine logs
>add, and taped seams are much more work than chine logs if you have a
>table saw or Skilsaw handy.
>
>
>
Depending on how much rowing performance you think you need, there
are Surf, June Bug, Sweet Pea, and Crystal.
Among non-Bolger boats, there is Welsford's Seagull:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/store/plans/jw/seagull/index.htm
and some at Boat Plans on-line:
http://boatplans-online.com/products.php?id=10
are Surf, June Bug, Sweet Pea, and Crystal.
Among non-Bolger boats, there is Welsford's Seagull:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/store/plans/jw/seagull/index.htm
and some at Boat Plans on-line:
http://boatplans-online.com/products.php?id=10
> Gavin Atkin also has a set of free plans for his "Doris" dory thatLocated in the gmaboatbuilders Yahoo group.
> strongly resembles the Gull, but doesn't require a jig.
If you are joined to that group already, this link should work:
http://tinyurl.com/5bwry
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "bobmas473" <Maselek_Robert@E...> wrote:
do over, I'd tape the stem, but use chine logs for the chines. The
stem that the plans call for requires some skillful bandsaw work on a
spendy piece of hardwood to come out right, but the bow is sharp
enough that a decent fillet of epoxy behind some tape will be very
strong, and much easier to make. By contrast, the obtuse angle of the
chines doesn't give you much extra strength; your seams will still
come out watertight, but without the stiffness that the chine logs
add, and taped seams are much more work than chine logs if you have a
table saw or Skilsaw handy.
The stiffness is especially important if you're building from 1/4"
rather than 3/8" -- my boat seems to be holding up well enough, but
she's very flexible, enough so that I worry about gunwale fatigue.
I'm half-considering adding an inwale at some point, to stiffen the
boat and to keep her from flooding when she leans over on one of her
topsides.
-- Sue --
(mine is also sheathed in 5 oz. Xynole, which may be helping to hold
her together)
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:I taped the chines on my Gull, and the stem as well. If I had it to
> >
> > What is your definition of "Bolger Type"?
>
> 1/4 inch plywood, taped epoxy seams, functional and durable and maybe
> designed by Bolger//Bob
do over, I'd tape the stem, but use chine logs for the chines. The
stem that the plans call for requires some skillful bandsaw work on a
spendy piece of hardwood to come out right, but the bow is sharp
enough that a decent fillet of epoxy behind some tape will be very
strong, and much easier to make. By contrast, the obtuse angle of the
chines doesn't give you much extra strength; your seams will still
come out watertight, but without the stiffness that the chine logs
add, and taped seams are much more work than chine logs if you have a
table saw or Skilsaw handy.
The stiffness is especially important if you're building from 1/4"
rather than 3/8" -- my boat seems to be holding up well enough, but
she's very flexible, enough so that I worry about gunwale fatigue.
I'm half-considering adding an inwale at some point, to stiffen the
boat and to keep her from flooding when she leans over on one of her
topsides.
-- Sue --
(mine is also sheathed in 5 oz. Xynole, which may be helping to hold
her together)
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
> I'm new to boats and building them, but would like to try my hand atThe Gloucester Gull (or "Gloucester Light Dory") fits all of the
> building a light, car-toppable good fast Bolger type fixed- seat
> rowboat for exercize. I would primarilly use it on lakes and
> protected bays, but conceivably a good chop might come up
> occasionally. Something relatively fast so that it keeps me
> motivated but still a boat rather than a scull.
above requirements perfectly; I have one, and love it. She's too
much to cartop by yourself, and I only just discovered the trick
of lifting her without having her be too awkward, but she'll
cartop if you have a helper or two, and she's fast, easy to row,
and stands up to chop very well. And you can take your helper
or two, plus a picnic lunch, along with you when you row.
The downside is that you have to build a jig for her. If you
can find a friend who also wants one, and build two or three from
the same jig, the time invested in the jig isn't too much. Gavin
Atkin also has a set of free plans for his "Doris" dory that
strongly resembles the Gull, but doesn't require a jig. Michalak
also has a dory, but the sheer is too low, making her more of a
protected-water-only boat.
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
>Thanks, those look very good to me too. //Bob
> I would recommend the Bolger Gloucester Gull dory,
> or perhaps Jim Michalak's Roar II.
> > What is your definition of "Bolger Type"?I would recommend the Bolger Gloucester Gull dory,
>
> 1/4 inch plywood, taped epoxy seams, functional and durable and maybe
> designed by Bolger//Bob
or perhaps Jim Michalak's Roar II.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
designed by Bolger//Bob
> bobmas4731/4 inch plywood, taped epoxy seams, functional and durable and maybe
>
> What is your definition of "Bolger Type"?
designed by Bolger//Bob
bobmas473
The row boat that Phil Bolger personally owns and uses
[which says a lot] is his design "Spur II". It is built
with plywood plank on plywood frames, and might be
a bit much as a 'first boat', but you could do it if you are
a talented carpenter or handyman.
What is your definition of "Bolger Type"?
> I'm new to boats and building them, but would like to try my hand at"Bolger type" means different things to different people.
> building a light, car-toppable good fast Bolger type fixed- seat
> rowboat for exercize.
The row boat that Phil Bolger personally owns and uses
[which says a lot] is his design "Spur II". It is built
with plywood plank on plywood frames, and might be
a bit much as a 'first boat', but you could do it if you are
a talented carpenter or handyman.
What is your definition of "Bolger Type"?
I'm new to boats and building them, but would like to try my hand at
building a light, car-toppable good fast Bolger type fixed- seat
rowboat for exercize. I would primarilly use it on lakes and
protected bays, but conceivably a good chop might come up
occasionally. Something relatively fast so that it keeps me
motovated but still a boat rather than a scull. Any and all
suggestions appreciated. Thanks/Bob
building a light, car-toppable good fast Bolger type fixed- seat
rowboat for exercize. I would primarilly use it on lakes and
protected bays, but conceivably a good chop might come up
occasionally. Something relatively fast so that it keeps me
motovated but still a boat rather than a scull. Any and all
suggestions appreciated. Thanks/Bob