Re: [bolger] Re: mounting my lexan windowsin a navigator?
I in the not to distant past owned a Wharrham Cat---- all the port lights needed replacing--i used lexan-----this is what I was told and did and it seemed to haved worked for two years+. I drilled the lexan every four inches at slow speeds; I use a wood over lay on the outside and a bedding compound they where threw bolted with bolts the same size as the the holes i drilled-----it workvery well-j.e.
dnjost <djost@...> wrote:I did it this way on my Micro, sealed with a good RV sealant and it
looked and worked fine. I would however recommend using the window
gasket that is sold by JC Whitney or any other automotive glass
place. Simply cut the window the size of the hole, place the gasket
around the frame, and then push the locking strip in place. It
really will hold up and is easily replaced if you scratch, dent,
chip, or gouge the stuff.
On my old Catboat, the plexiglass was crazed and this retrofit
worked perfectly.
David Jost
"gearing up for another season"
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dnjost <djost@...> wrote:I did it this way on my Micro, sealed with a good RV sealant and it
looked and worked fine. I would however recommend using the window
gasket that is sold by JC Whitney or any other automotive glass
place. Simply cut the window the size of the hole, place the gasket
around the frame, and then push the locking strip in place. It
really will hold up and is easily replaced if you scratch, dent,
chip, or gouge the stuff.
On my old Catboat, the plexiglass was crazed and this retrofit
worked perfectly.
David Jost
"gearing up for another season"
> Looks like i'll bolt them on from the outside......i'm just toolazy
> to build the frames.Bolger rules!!!
> Jason
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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Fritz
Are you far enough along that you can see the finish? There will be a
strong contingent from Juneau when you do get to the launching. 2006?
maybe sooner?
HJ
fritzdfk wrote:
Are you far enough along that you can see the finish? There will be a
strong contingent from Juneau when you do get to the launching. 2006?
maybe sooner?
HJ
fritzdfk wrote:
>I have done 16 windows so far on Double Eagle. All are 1/2"
>polycarbonate. I used Sikaflex 295UV sealant, Sikaflex 226 cleaner
>and Sikaflex 209m primer. This is a complete system to bed
>Polycarbonate (Lexan) windows. The windows are mounted on the outside
>of the boat, overlapping about 1.5". There are 1/4" bolts spaced
>about 8" to 10" around the perimeter. The holes are 3/8" in the
>polycarbonate to allow for movement. The primer is painted on the
>boat surface and the polycarbonate and is black which creates a black
>frame around the window. A 1/4" X 1/4" neoprene foam strip is set
>around the perimeter of the opening, this prevents the sealant from
>intruding into the interior. 3/16" nylon spacer washers are set
>around every bolt to maintain the reccommended 3/16" space for
>sealant. Sikaflex said I didn't need the bolts but I feel better with
>them. However, if these windows leak it will probably be around the
>bolt holes. I squirt a little sealant around eack bolt as they are
>tightened. I have put the same polycarbonate in a couple doors and in
>these I didn't use bolts, we'll see.
>
>The boat is almost completely closed in and I have a diesel range to
>install. I will be working on the interior this winter, floors,
>wiring and plumbing.
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>.
>
>
>
I have done 16 windows so far on Double Eagle. All are 1/2"
polycarbonate. I used Sikaflex 295UV sealant, Sikaflex 226 cleaner
and Sikaflex 209m primer. This is a complete system to bed
Polycarbonate (Lexan) windows. The windows are mounted on the outside
of the boat, overlapping about 1.5". There are 1/4" bolts spaced
about 8" to 10" around the perimeter. The holes are 3/8" in the
polycarbonate to allow for movement. The primer is painted on the
boat surface and the polycarbonate and is black which creates a black
frame around the window. A 1/4" X 1/4" neoprene foam strip is set
around the perimeter of the opening, this prevents the sealant from
intruding into the interior. 3/16" nylon spacer washers are set
around every bolt to maintain the reccommended 3/16" space for
sealant. Sikaflex said I didn't need the bolts but I feel better with
them. However, if these windows leak it will probably be around the
bolt holes. I squirt a little sealant around eack bolt as they are
tightened. I have put the same polycarbonate in a couple doors and in
these I didn't use bolts, we'll see.
The boat is almost completely closed in and I have a diesel range to
install. I will be working on the interior this winter, floors,
wiring and plumbing.
polycarbonate. I used Sikaflex 295UV sealant, Sikaflex 226 cleaner
and Sikaflex 209m primer. This is a complete system to bed
Polycarbonate (Lexan) windows. The windows are mounted on the outside
of the boat, overlapping about 1.5". There are 1/4" bolts spaced
about 8" to 10" around the perimeter. The holes are 3/8" in the
polycarbonate to allow for movement. The primer is painted on the
boat surface and the polycarbonate and is black which creates a black
frame around the window. A 1/4" X 1/4" neoprene foam strip is set
around the perimeter of the opening, this prevents the sealant from
intruding into the interior. 3/16" nylon spacer washers are set
around every bolt to maintain the reccommended 3/16" space for
sealant. Sikaflex said I didn't need the bolts but I feel better with
them. However, if these windows leak it will probably be around the
bolt holes. I squirt a little sealant around eack bolt as they are
tightened. I have put the same polycarbonate in a couple doors and in
these I didn't use bolts, we'll see.
The boat is almost completely closed in and I have a diesel range to
install. I will be working on the interior this winter, floors,
wiring and plumbing.
I did it this way on my Micro, sealed with a good RV sealant and it
looked and worked fine. I would however recommend using the window
gasket that is sold by JC Whitney or any other automotive glass
place. Simply cut the window the size of the hole, place the gasket
around the frame, and then push the locking strip in place. It
really will hold up and is easily replaced if you scratch, dent,
chip, or gouge the stuff.
On my old Catboat, the plexiglass was crazed and this retrofit
worked perfectly.
David Jost
"gearing up for another season"
looked and worked fine. I would however recommend using the window
gasket that is sold by JC Whitney or any other automotive glass
place. Simply cut the window the size of the hole, place the gasket
around the frame, and then push the locking strip in place. It
really will hold up and is easily replaced if you scratch, dent,
chip, or gouge the stuff.
On my old Catboat, the plexiglass was crazed and this retrofit
worked perfectly.
David Jost
"gearing up for another season"
> Looks like i'll bolt them on from the outside......i'm just toolazy
> to build the frames.
> Jason
Thanks,
For everyones help on the windows.
Looks like i'll bolt them on from the outside......i'm just too lazy
to build the frames.
Jason
For everyones help on the windows.
Looks like i'll bolt them on from the outside......i'm just too lazy
to build the frames.
Jason
Hi Jason, I have done inside and outside mounted windows.
My opinion is-
Inside-
Looks classier and more substantial
Takes 4 times as long to build
More vulnerable to water penetration, however, using a quality sealer
this does not seem to be a problem (6 years without attention on oval
window in Oink, using german made Seal-Once)
Outside-
Looks a little cheap
Easy to build and maintain
As others say, you need a hole plenty larger than your fixing. I had
a large window (acrylic) crack on my tri because of too small holes,
especially if you are using tinted material which will expand more.
And pan head screws with a washer. I actually used small bolts
because of the thin ply when mounting outside.
Let's face it, a micro is a pretty basic boat, and probably outside
windows are appropriate. Unless she is a lifelong project,the way I
would go if doing it again,
DonB
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
My opinion is-
Inside-
Looks classier and more substantial
Takes 4 times as long to build
More vulnerable to water penetration, however, using a quality sealer
this does not seem to be a problem (6 years without attention on oval
window in Oink, using german made Seal-Once)
Outside-
Looks a little cheap
Easy to build and maintain
As others say, you need a hole plenty larger than your fixing. I had
a large window (acrylic) crack on my tri because of too small holes,
especially if you are using tinted material which will expand more.
And pan head screws with a washer. I actually used small bolts
because of the thin ply when mounting outside.
Let's face it, a micro is a pretty basic boat, and probably outside
windows are appropriate. Unless she is a lifelong project,the way I
would go if doing it again,
DonB
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
> Started making some cardboard templates for my windows this evening.house
> Now i'm debating if i want to mount the Windows flush to the pilot
> house cutouts with some framing around the interior rim(more work)
> or to make them slightly oversized and mount them right on the
> exterior.bigger
> Any idea which would look better.My window cut outs are a bit
> than bolger drew so the side windows would be real close to the
> shear line.
>
> Thanks,
> jason
On my Sneakeasy I used plain exterior clear silicon
caulk/adhesive from Ace hardware with no screws on the front
windshield. I did use screws on the side windows only because
of minimal mounting space. At 75 MPH on the interstate the
windows all stayed in place with no worries. On the trip to
Lake Powell I did have a tarp over the windshield to protect it
from rock chips but it still pressed against the 1/8"
plexiglass. When I got back I decided to make the windshield a
fold down affair and disassembled the side panels. I had to
break the plexi to get it off so I'm convinced that the
adhesive alone does a good job. At least on the 1/8" stuff it
seems stronger than the plexi itself.
So far I've trailer the Sneakeasy about 1200 miles without the
windshields coming off. I would think on the navigator good
adhesive and minimal screws would work just fine. No counter
sunk though because the screw heads won't let the plastic move
with the heat and cooling of the day and will eventually crack.
Jeff
caulk/adhesive from Ace hardware with no screws on the front
windshield. I did use screws on the side windows only because
of minimal mounting space. At 75 MPH on the interstate the
windows all stayed in place with no worries. On the trip to
Lake Powell I did have a tarp over the windshield to protect it
from rock chips but it still pressed against the 1/8"
plexiglass. When I got back I decided to make the windshield a
fold down affair and disassembled the side panels. I had to
break the plexi to get it off so I'm convinced that the
adhesive alone does a good job. At least on the 1/8" stuff it
seems stronger than the plexi itself.
So far I've trailer the Sneakeasy about 1200 miles without the
windshields coming off. I would think on the navigator good
adhesive and minimal screws would work just fine. No counter
sunk though because the screw heads won't let the plastic move
with the heat and cooling of the day and will eventually crack.
Jeff
> Lexan can probably tolerate it, but, in general, countersunk------~->
> fasteners are a NO-NO for plastic. I'd use a pan head with
> a fender washer and a more than slightly oversized hole.
>
> Also, again, 3M 5200 is for PERMANENT mounting. Lots of
> other goops out there that permit disassembly later.
>
> Roger
>derbyrm@...
>http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "seagulloutb" <dickburnham1@...>
>
>
>> Almost ready to do what you're writing about. So I've done
>> the
>> reading, just not the doing. Here's the stuff I've read
>> (mostly Reuel Parker): 1) Always mount the lexan outboard
>> because of
>> security against a wall of water sort of thing, 2) make a
>> bunch of small holes to take whatever fastener you have in
>> mind -- holes to be slightly oversized to allow the lexan
>> to expand/contract without cracking at the hole(s). For me
>> this will be a series of small
>> countersunk holes since I'll be using s/s screws. (I'm
>> thinking of a thin, shaped wood frame to cover the
>> lexan/trunk joint on my
>> Chebacco. 3) Bed the bearing surfaces of the lexan in 3M
>> 5200 since this goop cleans up with mineral spirits.
>
>
>
>
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>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
> horses - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed,
> thanks, Fred' posts - Pls add your comments at the TOP,
> SIGN your posts, and snip away - Plans: Mr. Philip C.
> Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978)
> 282-1349 - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:
>bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo!
> Groups Links
>
>
>
>
Lexan can probably tolerate it, but, in general, countersunk fasteners are a
NO-NO for plastic. I'd use a pan head with a fender washer and a more than
slightly oversized hole.
Also, again, 3M 5200 is for PERMANENT mounting. Lots of other goops out
there that permit disassembly later.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
NO-NO for plastic. I'd use a pan head with a fender washer and a more than
slightly oversized hole.
Also, again, 3M 5200 is for PERMANENT mounting. Lots of other goops out
there that permit disassembly later.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "seagulloutb" <dickburnham1@...>
> Almost ready to do what you're writing about. So I've done the
> reading, just not the doing. Here's the stuff I've read (mostly
> Reuel Parker): 1) Always mount the lexan outboard because of
> security against a wall of water sort of thing, 2) make a bunch of
> small holes to take whatever fastener you have in mind -- holes to be
> slightly oversized to allow the lexan to expand/contract without
> cracking at the hole(s). For me this will be a series of small
> countersunk holes since I'll be using s/s screws. (I'm thinking of a
> thin, shaped wood frame to cover the lexan/trunk joint on my
> Chebacco. 3) Bed the bearing surfaces of the lexan in 3M 5200 since
> this goop cleans up with mineral spirits.
Hi JASON,
Almost ready to do what you're writing about. So I've done the
reading, just not the doing. Here's the stuff I've read (mostly
Reuel Parker): 1) Always mount the lexan outboard because of
security against a wall of water sort of thing, 2) make a bunch of
small holes to take whatever fastener you have in mind -- holes to be
slightly oversized to allow the lexan to expand/contract without
cracking at the hole(s). For me this will be a series of small
countersunk holes since I'll be using s/s screws. (I'm thinking of a
thin, shaped wood frame to cover the lexan/trunk joint on my
Chebacco. 3) Bed the bearing surfaces of the lexan in 3M 5200 since
this goop cleans up with mineral spirits.
Dick B
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
Almost ready to do what you're writing about. So I've done the
reading, just not the doing. Here's the stuff I've read (mostly
Reuel Parker): 1) Always mount the lexan outboard because of
security against a wall of water sort of thing, 2) make a bunch of
small holes to take whatever fastener you have in mind -- holes to be
slightly oversized to allow the lexan to expand/contract without
cracking at the hole(s). For me this will be a series of small
countersunk holes since I'll be using s/s screws. (I'm thinking of a
thin, shaped wood frame to cover the lexan/trunk joint on my
Chebacco. 3) Bed the bearing surfaces of the lexan in 3M 5200 since
this goop cleans up with mineral spirits.
Dick B
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
> Started making some cardboard templates for my windows this evening.house
> Now i'm debating if i want to mount the Windows flush to the pilot
> house cutouts with some framing around the interior rim(more work)
> or to make them slightly oversized and mount them right on the
> exterior.bigger
> Any idea which would look better.My window cut outs are a bit
> than bolger drew so the side windows would be real close to the
> shear line.
>
> Thanks,
> jason
Started making some cardboard templates for my windows this evening.
Now i'm debating if i want to mount the Windows flush to the pilot
house cutouts with some framing around the interior rim(more work)
or to make them slightly oversized and mount them right on the house
exterior.
Any idea which would look better.My window cut outs are a bit bigger
than bolger drew so the side windows would be real close to the
shear line.
Thanks,
jason
Now i'm debating if i want to mount the Windows flush to the pilot
house cutouts with some framing around the interior rim(more work)
or to make them slightly oversized and mount them right on the house
exterior.
Any idea which would look better.My window cut outs are a bit bigger
than bolger drew so the side windows would be real close to the
shear line.
Thanks,
jason