[bolger] Re: MJ - Weight & tailer
John - I weighed my boat and a concrete re-cycling depot, located two
blocks from a public launch ramp. Weighed the truck, trailer and boat
then launched the boat and weighed the truck and trailer alone. I think
that the final 'calculation' is pretty accurate.
blocks from a public launch ramp. Weighed the truck, trailer and boat
then launched the boat and weighed the truck and trailer alone. I think
that the final 'calculation' is pretty accurate.
BTS Bennett (?)
How did you weigh your MJ's 1740 lbs ? That seems reasonable compared
to my estimate of 2000 to 2500 lbs from several weighings of boat,
trailer and tow vehicle including motor, anchors and other gear plus
all sorts of stuff we bring along for one or two weeks cruising. The
weigh scales were intended for big trucks loaded with several tons of
sand or gravel. My total measured weights of 3000 to 3200 lbs were
small compared to that, so the "real" weight may be off a bit. The
bottom line is still at least 3000 lbs to be hauled on the highway.
Different states have different requirements, but I believe many
require brakes for trailer GVWR loads over 1500 to 3000 lbs. The guide
booklet that came with my Load Rite trailer (1995) stated: "In most
states, trailers with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of 1500
pounds or more, are required by law to have brakes on all wheels." My
personal opinion is that brakes are an important safety requirement
based on previous experience with 3000 pound travel trailering
coast-to-coast and six years of hauling Zephyr around the East Coast.
The former with full size family sedan and station wagons and the
latter with Jimmy/Blazer 4WD SUVs(4.3 liter).
My trailer is galvanized steel since aluminum was not as widely
available then, but the weight penalty is only about 100 or so pounds
from what I see in the current catalogs. My bias is for single axle
for MJ weights with fewer parts, considerably less weight and better
manueverability. Brakes are the prime safety factor in my opinion as
long as load capacity is conservative.
As you suggested, carrying a spare hub seems better than just bearings.
I can't quite picture replacing complete bearing assemblies at roadside
as an easy operation.
John Gerty
How did you weigh your MJ's 1740 lbs ? That seems reasonable compared
to my estimate of 2000 to 2500 lbs from several weighings of boat,
trailer and tow vehicle including motor, anchors and other gear plus
all sorts of stuff we bring along for one or two weeks cruising. The
weigh scales were intended for big trucks loaded with several tons of
sand or gravel. My total measured weights of 3000 to 3200 lbs were
small compared to that, so the "real" weight may be off a bit. The
bottom line is still at least 3000 lbs to be hauled on the highway.
Different states have different requirements, but I believe many
require brakes for trailer GVWR loads over 1500 to 3000 lbs. The guide
booklet that came with my Load Rite trailer (1995) stated: "In most
states, trailers with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of 1500
pounds or more, are required by law to have brakes on all wheels." My
personal opinion is that brakes are an important safety requirement
based on previous experience with 3000 pound travel trailering
coast-to-coast and six years of hauling Zephyr around the East Coast.
The former with full size family sedan and station wagons and the
latter with Jimmy/Blazer 4WD SUVs(4.3 liter).
My trailer is galvanized steel since aluminum was not as widely
available then, but the weight penalty is only about 100 or so pounds
from what I see in the current catalogs. My bias is for single axle
for MJ weights with fewer parts, considerably less weight and better
manueverability. Brakes are the prime safety factor in my opinion as
long as load capacity is conservative.
As you suggested, carrying a spare hub seems better than just bearings.
I can't quite picture replacing complete bearing assemblies at roadside
as an easy operation.
John Gerty
Ed-
My MJ, built as designed ... more or less, weighs 1740 lbs. No
anchors,motor, ballast etc. but fully rigged. My trailer I bought used
(30 years old) and it is a single axle trailer without brakes towed
behind a Ford Ranger pick-up with a 4 liter engine. Two wheel drive.
I carry a spare set of bearings with me when "cruising" but have
thought that a spare hub, packed and ready to go would be a better
idea. To date have never had a problem on the road (20,000 + miles)but
I do watch things carefully.
Am considering a new trailer and if I go for it, will probably go
aluminum (spelling?) but more to save towing weight than anything else.
My MJ, built as designed ... more or less, weighs 1740 lbs. No
anchors,motor, ballast etc. but fully rigged. My trailer I bought used
(30 years old) and it is a single axle trailer without brakes towed
behind a Ford Ranger pick-up with a 4 liter engine. Two wheel drive.
I carry a spare set of bearings with me when "cruising" but have
thought that a spare hub, packed and ready to go would be a better
idea. To date have never had a problem on the road (20,000 + miles)but
I do watch things carefully.
Am considering a new trailer and if I go for it, will probably go
aluminum (spelling?) but more to save towing weight than anything else.