Re: [bolger] Re: uncured epoxy?
>Peter Lenihan wrote:I only have a few hours clear this Saturday afternoon, and
> But please don't rush things for"our"sake.Take the time to get
> things just right.....or at least to the point where you feel
> comfortable with the set-up.
I am not sure I will be ready to launch by then. Next opportunity
would be in two weeks.
Today, after work, I ran the rigging, for the first time, and
hoisted the main sail. A real learning experience!
http://community.webshots.com/album/200179250OKHUpK?295
Shows some photos.
The full up, and one reef in versions have the sheetlets run
through the wrong pulleys on the stern staff. The two-reef
picture have that corrected. I can see that I will need some
braille lines to gather up the sail upon reefing. Also the spans
of the topping lift need to be re-done, as I mistakenly had them
running through holes in the boom. This prevents me from
just using the windward lift. A gaff rig is new to me!
I chose 'Rose' as a name for my boat, it has double meaning,
both as a tribute to Bolger's other boat 'Rose', and that it is
an endearment name of my daughter.
I cannot tell yet for sure, but I fear that my darts on the
polytarp sail will not allow enough draft. I will try to revise
them. I am prototyping with polytarp, and more or less
intend to graduate to dacron sails after I have learned some
lessons about the rig using polytarp. Also, the battens
are deliberately made on the stiff side, and I will taper them
down gradually upon trial and error. Notice that I have the
battens fastened to the polytarp using 1 1/2" adhesive
Velcro strips.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
70F and I suppose the boots and shovels come out around 50F ? :-D
Just kidding Bruce,but you gotta know that some of us are jealous of
you steady climate folks to the South.
Just as sure too that many of us are slowly inching closer to the
edge of our seats as your launch day approaches,especially since we
know we can expect a nice photo"album" of the launch :-)
But please don't rush things for"our"sake.Take the time to get
things just right.....or at least to the point where you feel
comfortable with the set-up.
Best of luck!
Sincerely,
Peter lenihan,squeek,squeek,squeeking toward the edge..........
> Here in sunny California, the high temp was 90FYa,right......it'll be just hell when things start hovering around
> today. <g> Should cool off soon, though.
70F and I suppose the boots and shovels come out around 50F ? :-D
Just kidding Bruce,but you gotta know that some of us are jealous of
you steady climate folks to the South.
Just as sure too that many of us are slowly inching closer to the
edge of our seats as your launch day approaches,especially since we
know we can expect a nice photo"album" of the launch :-)
But please don't rush things for"our"sake.Take the time to get
things just right.....or at least to the point where you feel
comfortable with the set-up.
Best of luck!
Sincerely,
Peter lenihan,squeek,squeek,squeeking toward the edge..........
>uncured epoxyTry a spot of hot air from hair dryer to see it it cures.
I had a couple instances of no-cure due to bad
mixing ratio. Sanding off is not a good option,
because it instantly gums up the sandpaper.
One time I just scraped most off with a drywall
knife. The second time, I just painted over the
goo with two coats of that BIN primer.
Here in sunny California, the high temp was 90F
today. <g> Should cool off soon, though.
I spent my two hours of daylight after work
trying to get ready for my launch. I found that
trouble shooting the rigging of a Chinese Gaff
was more than I anticipated. I went back and
added a second pully, and another part to the
lift of the gaff throat throat halyard, because
the single part I started with was too hard a pull.
I also have been jerry rigging the hull supports
on my trailer, as the fat belly and fin of a Micro
doesn't fit well with conventional trailer bunks.
I put a cross beam just under the front watertight
bulkhead. And, I fitted two removable 'legs' that
fit into the 2" drain holes, each side of the aft
wet holds.
I've turned sour on my "torpedo heater." It seems to put enough noxious
fumes in the air, particularly for the first fifteen minutes that ... Well,
I just don't like it. If dew promotes amine blush, the combustion products
are really a question in my mind.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
fumes in the air, particularly for the first fifteen minutes that ... Well,
I just don't like it. If dew promotes amine blush, the combustion products
are really a question in my mind.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "doug6949" <prototype@...>
> Heat lamps, portable heaters or a torpedo heater will work.
Jason Stancil wrote:
In my limited experience, Low Temps and Soaking Dews inevitably
cause EXTREME amine blush and slow curing. It has happened to me
again and again using RAKA epoxy. Here's what I do. Apply as much
dry heat as possible. Then after 24 hours, I scrub up with lightly
soapy water (a pinch of laundry detergent)and a green pad. The
first time, I experienced it the blush was so extreme that I thought
it was a problem with the cure. Since, it really seems more like a
combination of the two.
I've epoxied happily on between as low as 35 degrees, but despite
everyone's advice to epoxy as it cools in the evening. I usually
avoid leaving freshly applied epoxy to cure overnight, and plan at
least 3 or 4 hours of sunlight between application and dusk.
Also, one can use heaters, lamps, even fans, but nothing seems to
work as well as a few hours of direct sunlight. I don't suppose
this is an option on such a large project?
Don't be afraid to wait a few more days for the cure.
I've also made bad mixes before and eventually (once as long as 11
days) they almost always cure. And unless you are talking about a
limited area, scraping and scrubbing is a full day's arm aching
work, if not more.
Good luck.
RAV
> Hey i smeared the last bit of micro ballons on my pilot house toor
> fill some bumps from the glassing, but it hasn't cured in 48
> hours....can still stick my fingernail in it and leave a mark.
> Not sure if it is due to a bad mix, the 40 degree temps at night
> the soaking dews weve been getting here.<snip>Kinda slow going as the dews and
> temps are slowing the varnishing down to a crawl.Jason,
In my limited experience, Low Temps and Soaking Dews inevitably
cause EXTREME amine blush and slow curing. It has happened to me
again and again using RAKA epoxy. Here's what I do. Apply as much
dry heat as possible. Then after 24 hours, I scrub up with lightly
soapy water (a pinch of laundry detergent)and a green pad. The
first time, I experienced it the blush was so extreme that I thought
it was a problem with the cure. Since, it really seems more like a
combination of the two.
I've epoxied happily on between as low as 35 degrees, but despite
everyone's advice to epoxy as it cools in the evening. I usually
avoid leaving freshly applied epoxy to cure overnight, and plan at
least 3 or 4 hours of sunlight between application and dusk.
Also, one can use heaters, lamps, even fans, but nothing seems to
work as well as a few hours of direct sunlight. I don't suppose
this is an option on such a large project?
Don't be afraid to wait a few more days for the cure.
I've also made bad mixes before and eventually (once as long as 11
days) they almost always cure. And unless you are talking about a
limited area, scraping and scrubbing is a full day's arm aching
work, if not more.
Good luck.
RAV
I've seen epoxy stay soft for weeks as a result of low temperatures.
It doesn't hurt the resin - it's sorta suspended in time. You need to
get the surface warm long enough to continue the cure. Heat lamps,
portable heaters or a torpedo heater will work.
Slow hardener mixes are more sensitive to low temp. However, trying to
speed up the process by adding hardener to the surface will not work.
Epoxy only cures in exact ratio. The reaction is completely different
than for polyester resin.
Doug
It doesn't hurt the resin - it's sorta suspended in time. You need to
get the surface warm long enough to continue the cure. Heat lamps,
portable heaters or a torpedo heater will work.
Slow hardener mixes are more sensitive to low temp. However, trying to
speed up the process by adding hardener to the surface will not work.
Epoxy only cures in exact ratio. The reaction is completely different
than for polyester resin.
Doug
Jason,
Cold weather... I'd say leave it for days longer.
Can you put some hot lights on it to heat it a bit? I
vote a big no to the hardener thing. Might work for
polyester but Epoxy is a different beast.
Gene T.
--- Jason Stancil <jasonstancil@...> wrote:
Cold weather... I'd say leave it for days longer.
Can you put some hot lights on it to heat it a bit? I
vote a big no to the hardener thing. Might work for
polyester but Epoxy is a different beast.
Gene T.
--- Jason Stancil <jasonstancil@...> wrote:
>http://us.click.yahoo.com/J8kdrA/y20IAA/yQLSAA/_0TolB/TM
>
> Hey i smeared the last bit of micro ballons on my
> pilot house to
> fill some bumps from the glassing, but it hasn't
> cured in 48
> hours....can still stick my fingernail in it and
> leave a mark.
>
> Not sure if it is due to a bad mix, the 40 degree
> temps at night or
> the soaking dews weve been getting here.
>
> Any suggestions? I have not used the stuff in these
> conditions so
> i'm not sure what the problem is. Can i lightly dab
> it with hardner
> or should i just sand it off in it's goo like state
> and live with
> the blemishes?...No time to wait for another batch
> to cure......i
> want to prime this monster since the can says i
> should wait a week
> before top coating after application. Leaves are
> turning, the race
> is on!
>
> Thanks,
> Jason
>
> PS She's looking nice and fair considering i haven't
> a clue as to
> what i'm doing. Just need to bed down the trim work,
> build a
> rudder/tiller and install the windows. I figure 3
> weeks till launch
> turkey day break at the latest. Kinda slow going as
> the dews and
> temps are slowing the varnishing down to a crawl.
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Thanks Peter,
I just went and put a halogen lamp on one of three "trouble" spots.
It got up in the mid 50s today so i think i mis mixed the batch. Doh!
Can't tell for sure as i have been mixing fast and slow hardner in
the same jug so it kicks when i need it to. Oh yeah and the yuloh
sculled it's way into one of my capless hardner bottles, forever
making my work bvench a toxic mess and keeping me from knowing how
much i've used.
I'm off work tommorrow so if it's still soft after the dew burns off
i guess i'll just take it all off. Man i'm glad i invested in a new
porter cable sander.
Jason, praying to go boating in my bastardized houseboat of a micro
before i go xcountry skiing for the first time this season.
I just went and put a halogen lamp on one of three "trouble" spots.
It got up in the mid 50s today so i think i mis mixed the batch. Doh!
Can't tell for sure as i have been mixing fast and slow hardner in
the same jug so it kicks when i need it to. Oh yeah and the yuloh
sculled it's way into one of my capless hardner bottles, forever
making my work bvench a toxic mess and keeping me from knowing how
much i've used.
I'm off work tommorrow so if it's still soft after the dew burns off
i guess i'll just take it all off. Man i'm glad i invested in a new
porter cable sander.
Jason, praying to go boating in my bastardized houseboat of a micro
before i go xcountry skiing for the first time this season.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
Hi Jason,
Not sure what the problem exactly is either but you may start
off measuring the epoxy you have left in your jugs/bottles to see if
the ratios are still the same.....this will establish whether or not
it is a mix-mistake.
Next,I would be inclined to throw some heat on the works....even
if it means only a cardboard box shelter over the area in question
and a 150 watt light bulb clamped underneath.
Certainly as temperatures cool down and dew becomes
evident,this is not helpful for healthly epoxy cures. Is there
anyway you could heat up or move your boat into a more confined
space to heat it up a bit?.......even a tarp thrown over it with a
light/heat source underneath would be useful.
Finally,what does your epoxy literature for your specific brand
say regarding temperatures?
When does it start to snow down your way?
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, who had +4C outside his bowshed this morning but
enjoyed +23 inside under a blazing autumn sun,from along the balks
of the St.Lawrence Seaway.....
wrote:
Hi Jason,
Not sure what the problem exactly is either but you may start
off measuring the epoxy you have left in your jugs/bottles to see if
the ratios are still the same.....this will establish whether or not
it is a mix-mistake.
Next,I would be inclined to throw some heat on the works....even
if it means only a cardboard box shelter over the area in question
and a 150 watt light bulb clamped underneath.
Certainly as temperatures cool down and dew becomes
evident,this is not helpful for healthly epoxy cures. Is there
anyway you could heat up or move your boat into a more confined
space to heat it up a bit?.......even a tarp thrown over it with a
light/heat source underneath would be useful.
Finally,what does your epoxy literature for your specific brand
say regarding temperatures?
When does it start to snow down your way?
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, who had +4C outside his bowshed this morning but
enjoyed +23 inside under a blazing autumn sun,from along the balks
of the St.Lawrence Seaway.....
Hey i smeared the last bit of micro ballons on my pilot house to
fill some bumps from the glassing, but it hasn't cured in 48
hours....can still stick my fingernail in it and leave a mark.
Not sure if it is due to a bad mix, the 40 degree temps at night or
the soaking dews weve been getting here.
Any suggestions? I have not used the stuff in these conditions so
i'm not sure what the problem is. Can i lightly dab it with hardner
or should i just sand it off in it's goo like state and live with
the blemishes?...No time to wait for another batch to cure......i
want to prime this monster since the can says i should wait a week
before top coating after application. Leaves are turning, the race
is on!
Thanks,
Jason
PS She's looking nice and fair considering i haven't a clue as to
what i'm doing. Just need to bed down the trim work, build a
rudder/tiller and install the windows. I figure 3 weeks till launch
turkey day break at the latest. Kinda slow going as the dews and
temps are slowing the varnishing down to a crawl.
fill some bumps from the glassing, but it hasn't cured in 48
hours....can still stick my fingernail in it and leave a mark.
Not sure if it is due to a bad mix, the 40 degree temps at night or
the soaking dews weve been getting here.
Any suggestions? I have not used the stuff in these conditions so
i'm not sure what the problem is. Can i lightly dab it with hardner
or should i just sand it off in it's goo like state and live with
the blemishes?...No time to wait for another batch to cure......i
want to prime this monster since the can says i should wait a week
before top coating after application. Leaves are turning, the race
is on!
Thanks,
Jason
PS She's looking nice and fair considering i haven't a clue as to
what i'm doing. Just need to bed down the trim work, build a
rudder/tiller and install the windows. I figure 3 weeks till launch
turkey day break at the latest. Kinda slow going as the dews and
temps are slowing the varnishing down to a crawl.