Re: [bolger] Re: Building a CenterBoard Trunk
Inner tubes. Slick approach, I'll have to remember
that one. Thanks. Also glad to hear about successful
application of the Formica.
Gene T.
--- friendlygulltoo <squarebows@...> wrote:
that one. Thanks. Also glad to hear about successful
application of the Formica.
Gene T.
--- friendlygulltoo <squarebows@...> wrote:
>http://us.click.yahoo.com/J8kdrA/y20IAA/yQLSAA/_0TolB/TM
>
> I retrofitted the CB case of a San Francisco Bay
> Pelican with
> Formica several years ago and have had no more
> problems with leaks
> or wear on the inside of the case. In doing this, in
> an assembled
> case, it was necessary to thouroughly roughen the
> surface and to
> remove the paint around the inside periphery of the
> case. I applied
> pressure to the formica by slipping a sheet of
> plywood encased in
> plastic sheeting, after the epoxied formica sheet,
> and then used a
> couple of bicycle innertubes to supply pressure---
> In
>bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Gene T."
> <goldranger02-boats@y...> wrote:
> > Dave,
> > I read some where that lining the trunk with some
> > plastic sheeting like Formica (kitchen counter top
> > plastic) might be a good choice to help reduce
> ware
> > and increase slipperyness and to make it
> impervious to
> > water. Possibly gluing it on with epoxy rather
> than
> > the usual contact cement gives a double seal. As
> far
> > as the bottom edge... I'd consider stopping the
> > plastic short of the opening so it is not split by
> > heavy impacts.....
> >
> > Gene T.
> >
> > --- jetsite2 <farljet@e...> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > I am building a Bolger Cartopper from Payson
> plans.
> > > It's my first
> > > sailboat and I could use some advice on how to
> > > finish the inside of the
> > > centerboard trunk.
> > > Payson's article in Woodenboat magazine does not
> > > cover building the
> > > centerboard, and the instructions that came with
> the
> > > plans do not
> > > help here.
> > >
> > > I assume that I should coat the inside surfaces
> of
> > > the trunk with epoxy and/or
> > > fiberglass before I put the trunk together?
> > >
> > > And what about the C/B slot in the bottom panel.
> > > Should I protect it with
> > > fiberglass, or just coat it with epoxy? I'm sure
> its
> > > a high wear spot, and the
> > > square edges make it vulnerable to damage. Is it
> o.k
> > > to round over the edge
> > > so it will take a fiberglass coating?... or
> should
> > > this edge be protected with
> > > some sort of over-lay of metal or plastic?
> > >
> > > I will be grateful for any advice.
> > >
> > > Dave
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
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> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or
> > > flogging dead horses
> > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no
> 'Ed,
> > > thanks, Fred' posts
> > > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your
> posts,
> > > and snip away
> > > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> > > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or
> flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed,
> thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts,
> and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:
>bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "jetsite2" <farljet@e...> wrote:
of the centerboard case can be either epoxy coated or fiberglassed,
but I sheathed mine with Formica set with epoxy. It has held up well,
and never bound or jammed. The smoothness of the Formica is far
better than anything I could have produced by hand finishing, and the
stuff was easy to work.
I lined the inside of the pivot slot on the centerboard with thin
metal - I think it was aluminum. So long as you are drysailing the
boat, electrolisis from dissimilar metals shouldn't be a problem.It
hasn't been with mine.
I spoke with Dynamite about how to set the centerboard case in the
hull. His advice was to bed the base in peanutbutter consistancy
thickened epoxy. Again, no problems, and I suspect it stiffened up
the hull considerably.
You should have a great time with this boat. It rows and sails very
well- It was a great sail trainer/knockaround boat for my kids.
Enjoy yourself.
Regards,
John
> Dave,I built a cartopper about 10 years ago. Before assembling, the inside
of the centerboard case can be either epoxy coated or fiberglassed,
but I sheathed mine with Formica set with epoxy. It has held up well,
and never bound or jammed. The smoothness of the Formica is far
better than anything I could have produced by hand finishing, and the
stuff was easy to work.
I lined the inside of the pivot slot on the centerboard with thin
metal - I think it was aluminum. So long as you are drysailing the
boat, electrolisis from dissimilar metals shouldn't be a problem.It
hasn't been with mine.
I spoke with Dynamite about how to set the centerboard case in the
hull. His advice was to bed the base in peanutbutter consistancy
thickened epoxy. Again, no problems, and I suspect it stiffened up
the hull considerably.
You should have a great time with this boat. It rows and sails very
well- It was a great sail trainer/knockaround boat for my kids.
Enjoy yourself.
Regards,
John
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "jetsite2" <farljet@e...> wrote:
of the centerboard case can be either epoxy coated or fiberglassed,
but I sheathed mine with Formica set with epoxy. It has held up well,
and never bound or jammed. The smoothness of the Formica is far
better than anything I could have produced by hand finishing, and the
stuff was easy to work.
I lined the inside of the pivot slot on the centerboard with thin
metal - I think it was aluminum. So long as you are drysailing the
boat, electrolisis from dissimilar metals shouldn't be a problem.It
hasn't been with mine.
I spoke with Dynamite about how to set the centerboard case in the
hull. His advice was to bed the base in peanutbutter consistancy
thickened epoxy. Again, no problems, and I suspect it stiffened up
the hull considerably.
You should have a great time with this boat. It rows and sails very
well- It was a great sail trainer/knockaround boat for my kids.
Enjoy yourself.
Regards,
John
> Dave,I built a cartopper about 10 years ago. Before assembling, the inside
of the centerboard case can be either epoxy coated or fiberglassed,
but I sheathed mine with Formica set with epoxy. It has held up well,
and never bound or jammed. The smoothness of the Formica is far
better than anything I could have produced by hand finishing, and the
stuff was easy to work.
I lined the inside of the pivot slot on the centerboard with thin
metal - I think it was aluminum. So long as you are drysailing the
boat, electrolisis from dissimilar metals shouldn't be a problem.It
hasn't been with mine.
I spoke with Dynamite about how to set the centerboard case in the
hull. His advice was to bed the base in peanutbutter consistancy
thickened epoxy. Again, no problems, and I suspect it stiffened up
the hull considerably.
You should have a great time with this boat. It rows and sails very
well- It was a great sail trainer/knockaround boat for my kids.
Enjoy yourself.
Regards,
John
I retrofitted the CB case of a San Francisco Bay Pelican with
Formica several years ago and have had no more problems with leaks
or wear on the inside of the case. In doing this, in an assembled
case, it was necessary to thouroughly roughen the surface and to
remove the paint around the inside periphery of the case. I applied
pressure to the formica by slipping a sheet of plywood encased in
plastic sheeting, after the epoxied formica sheet, and then used a
couple of bicycle innertubes to supply pressure--- In
bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Gene T." <goldranger02-boats@y...> wrote:
Formica several years ago and have had no more problems with leaks
or wear on the inside of the case. In doing this, in an assembled
case, it was necessary to thouroughly roughen the surface and to
remove the paint around the inside periphery of the case. I applied
pressure to the formica by slipping a sheet of plywood encased in
plastic sheeting, after the epoxied formica sheet, and then used a
couple of bicycle innertubes to supply pressure--- In
bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Gene T." <goldranger02-boats@y...> wrote:
> Dave,-~->
> I read some where that lining the trunk with some
> plastic sheeting like Formica (kitchen counter top
> plastic) might be a good choice to help reduce ware
> and increase slipperyness and to make it impervious to
> water. Possibly gluing it on with epoxy rather than
> the usual contact cement gives a double seal. As far
> as the bottom edge... I'd consider stopping the
> plastic short of the opening so it is not split by
> heavy impacts.....
>
> Gene T.
>
> --- jetsite2 <farljet@e...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I am building a Bolger Cartopper from Payson plans.
> > It's my first
> > sailboat and I could use some advice on how to
> > finish the inside of the
> > centerboard trunk.
> > Payson's article in Woodenboat magazine does not
> > cover building the
> > centerboard, and the instructions that came with the
> > plans do not
> > help here.
> >
> > I assume that I should coat the inside surfaces of
> > the trunk with epoxy and/or
> > fiberglass before I put the trunk together?
> >
> > And what about the C/B slot in the bottom panel.
> > Should I protect it with
> > fiberglass, or just coat it with epoxy? I'm sure its
> > a high wear spot, and the
> > square edges make it vulnerable to damage. Is it o.k
> > to round over the edge
> > so it will take a fiberglass coating?... or should
> > this edge be protected with
> > some sort of over-lay of metal or plastic?
> >
> > I will be grateful for any advice.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > --------------------~-->
> > $9.95 domain names from Yahoo!. Register anything.
> >
>http://us.click.yahoo.com/J8kdrA/y20IAA/yQLSAA/_0TolB/TM
> >
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or
> > flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed,
> > thanks, Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts,
> > and snip away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:
> >bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
I have scanned the article and it is posted to Files in Bolger2 under
Construction Details.
Bob Chamberland
Construction Details.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, cha62759@t... wrote:
>
> Dave,if you can get hold of a copy of theGougeon's book "Gougeons
> Brothers on Boat Construction" they spell out an easy foolproof
> technique of building and installing a centerboard case.
Dave,
I read some where that lining the trunk with some
plastic sheeting like Formica (kitchen counter top
plastic) might be a good choice to help reduce ware
and increase slipperyness and to make it impervious to
water. Possibly gluing it on with epoxy rather than
the usual contact cement gives a double seal. As far
as the bottom edge... I'd consider stopping the
plastic short of the opening so it is not split by
heavy impacts.....
Gene T.
--- jetsite2 <farljet@...> wrote:
I read some where that lining the trunk with some
plastic sheeting like Formica (kitchen counter top
plastic) might be a good choice to help reduce ware
and increase slipperyness and to make it impervious to
water. Possibly gluing it on with epoxy rather than
the usual contact cement gives a double seal. As far
as the bottom edge... I'd consider stopping the
plastic short of the opening so it is not split by
heavy impacts.....
Gene T.
--- jetsite2 <farljet@...> wrote:
>http://us.click.yahoo.com/J8kdrA/y20IAA/yQLSAA/_0TolB/TM
>
> I am building a Bolger Cartopper from Payson plans.
> It's my first
> sailboat and I could use some advice on how to
> finish the inside of the
> centerboard trunk.
> Payson's article in Woodenboat magazine does not
> cover building the
> centerboard, and the instructions that came with the
> plans do not
> help here.
>
> I assume that I should coat the inside surfaces of
> the trunk with epoxy and/or
> fiberglass before I put the trunk together?
>
> And what about the C/B slot in the bottom panel.
> Should I protect it with
> fiberglass, or just coat it with epoxy? I'm sure its
> a high wear spot, and the
> square edges make it vulnerable to damage. Is it o.k
> to round over the edge
> so it will take a fiberglass coating?... or should
> this edge be protected with
> some sort of over-lay of metal or plastic?
>
> I will be grateful for any advice.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> --------------------~-->
> $9.95 domain names from Yahoo!. Register anything.
>
>--------------------------------------------------------------------~->
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or
> flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed,
> thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts,
> and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:
>bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
Dave,if you can get hold of a copy of theGougeon's book "Gougeons
Brothers on Boat Construction" they spell out an easy foolproof
technique of building and installing a centerboard case. I generally
glass the inside faces of the centerboard before assembly. The edges
of the slot should be protected with glass. If you can't find the
Gougeons book email me and I will scan the page and send it off to you.
Bob Chamberland
Brothers on Boat Construction" they spell out an easy foolproof
technique of building and installing a centerboard case. I generally
glass the inside faces of the centerboard before assembly. The edges
of the slot should be protected with glass. If you can't find the
Gougeons book email me and I will scan the page and send it off to you.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "jetsite2" <farljet@e...> wrote:
>
> I am building a Bolger Cartopper from Payson plans. It's my first
> sailboat and I could use some advice on how to finish the inside of the
> centerboard trunk.
> Payson's article in Woodenboat magazine does not cover building the
> centerboard, and the instructions that came with the plans do not
> help here.
>
> I assume that I should coat the inside surfaces of the trunk with
epoxy and/or
> fiberglass before I put the trunk together?
>
> And what about the C/B slot in the bottom panel. Should I protect it
with
> fiberglass, or just coat it with epoxy? I'm sure its a high wear
spot, and the
> square edges make it vulnerable to damage. Is it o.k to round over
the edge
> so it will take a fiberglass coating?... or should this edge be
protected with
> some sort of over-lay of metal or plastic?
>
> I will be grateful for any advice.
>
> Dave
dave i put an offcenterboard trunk in my microesque boat. I just
went with what i've seen an sketches in varies books.
I coated everthing real good before assembling it(4 coats).
Next i put it together used a paint stick to fillet the inside
corners of the case. I then fillet the floor and bunk to trunk and
bunk to forward bulkhead conections and overlapped 3" glass tape on
the edges. (i sanded them round before putting the glass on. When
that cured i drilled a hole up through the bottom and jig sawed and
routed the slot from the underside....masive & expensive 2.25"
laminatye trimmmer bit. My bottom is an 1" thick with the dynel and
two layers of thick 3/8" MDO I then routed the edges with a 1"
roundover bit and taped the bottom seams with 3 inch glass tape. I
could have taped the inside corners of the trunk by lowering pre-
wetted out strips fom inside the boat and poking them smooth from
above and below...alas i got lazy and figured it's plenty strong and
water tight as is.
Oh yeah, there was a butt load of bronze nails from the case side to
bunk side and then from the spacers to the side and then finally the
starbord side was nailed to the spacers(all before the glassing)
Disclaimer: this is only what i did, i made it up as i went and as
group members can attest i can't follow directions anyhow. So the
whole trunk may fall out when i launch and take the little beast to
it's briny demise.
Jason
went with what i've seen an sketches in varies books.
I coated everthing real good before assembling it(4 coats).
Next i put it together used a paint stick to fillet the inside
corners of the case. I then fillet the floor and bunk to trunk and
bunk to forward bulkhead conections and overlapped 3" glass tape on
the edges. (i sanded them round before putting the glass on. When
that cured i drilled a hole up through the bottom and jig sawed and
routed the slot from the underside....masive & expensive 2.25"
laminatye trimmmer bit. My bottom is an 1" thick with the dynel and
two layers of thick 3/8" MDO I then routed the edges with a 1"
roundover bit and taped the bottom seams with 3 inch glass tape. I
could have taped the inside corners of the trunk by lowering pre-
wetted out strips fom inside the boat and poking them smooth from
above and below...alas i got lazy and figured it's plenty strong and
water tight as is.
Oh yeah, there was a butt load of bronze nails from the case side to
bunk side and then from the spacers to the side and then finally the
starbord side was nailed to the spacers(all before the glassing)
Disclaimer: this is only what i did, i made it up as i went and as
group members can attest i can't follow directions anyhow. So the
whole trunk may fall out when i launch and take the little beast to
it's briny demise.
Jason
Im looking at some ¼-inch underlay at Lowes for a boatbuilding
project. I dont see any voids and the surfaces look great. My
question is: Is Urea-Formaldehyde or Phenol Formaldehyde an exterior
glue?
Thanks,
Tom
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
project. I dont see any voids and the surfaces look great. My
question is: Is Urea-Formaldehyde or Phenol Formaldehyde an exterior
glue?
Thanks,
Tom
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I am building a Bolger Cartopper from Payson plans. It's my first
sailboat and I could use some advice on how to finish the inside of the
centerboard trunk.
Payson's article in Woodenboat magazine does not cover building the
centerboard, and the instructions that came with the plans do not
help here.
I assume that I should coat the inside surfaces of the trunk with epoxy and/or
fiberglass before I put the trunk together?
And what about the C/B slot in the bottom panel. Should I protect it with
fiberglass, or just coat it with epoxy? I'm sure its a high wear spot, and the
square edges make it vulnerable to damage. Is it o.k to round over the edge
so it will take a fiberglass coating?... or should this edge be protected with
some sort of over-lay of metal or plastic?
I will be grateful for any advice.
Dave
sailboat and I could use some advice on how to finish the inside of the
centerboard trunk.
Payson's article in Woodenboat magazine does not cover building the
centerboard, and the instructions that came with the plans do not
help here.
I assume that I should coat the inside surfaces of the trunk with epoxy and/or
fiberglass before I put the trunk together?
And what about the C/B slot in the bottom panel. Should I protect it with
fiberglass, or just coat it with epoxy? I'm sure its a high wear spot, and the
square edges make it vulnerable to damage. Is it o.k to round over the edge
so it will take a fiberglass coating?... or should this edge be protected with
some sort of over-lay of metal or plastic?
I will be grateful for any advice.
Dave