Re: [bolger] Re: home depot plywood
> I am wondering which designs require more than oneI'm thinking of designs in the 40' to 50' range or,
> course, except for
> the bottom?
perhaps, more. Phil Bolger said of one design, "Five
inches of plywood is pretty strong too." The original
concept was for steel and steel with insulating panels
wasn't working for the canals of Europe. Air draft,
the distance from the waterline to the top of the boat
or the bottom of the bridge or tunnel's top, was
difficult to achieve and to have adequate living
space.
>Well, if it doesn't work out, then I guess I could
> I don't actually see how you will save any money
> because what little
> you save on plywood, will be more than eaten up in
> extra filler,
> paint, epoxy, sanding supplies and additional work
> and aggravation.
switch back to more expensive wood. I think it would
work OK.
> If using thinner plywood you will have to useI plan to epoxy between each course. I'd fill all the
> heavier glass which
> uses even more epoxy.
>
voids on the surfaces of the plywood, perhaps with
Bondo perhaps with wood, and largely ignore any voids
between layers. (Except, of course, on exposed
edges.)I'm expecting the redundancy of the plys and
the courses of plywood themselves to make even
substantial voids between plys unimportant.
Phil Smith
One example of where you can get better ply for your dollar is 1/4"
SYP from Lowes or HD. It is closer to 5/16 and there are substantially
fewer voids than with other thicknesses. Using two sheets will give
you 5/8" with 6 plies.
I wouldn't consider voids less problematic on the inner layers because
most rot develops on the inside.
A good method for building a walk-on hull bottom is to laminate 1X6
pressure treated decking between 1/4" SYP ply. You can even treat the
ply with copper napthanate prior to assembly if you want a completely
rot-proof bottom. CN does not afect epoxy bonding.
Stories about epoxy not sticking to PT stem from using uncured (wet)
lumber. Also, the newer ACQ formulation does not develop a boundary
coating as it dries the way CCA did. If in doubt, just take the skin
off by running the planks through a planer. This helps with untreated
wood too.
Unfortunately, any layered hull is going to require a lot of epoxy
unless it is vacuum bagged. Developed sheets just don't lay together
very well.
Doug
SYP from Lowes or HD. It is closer to 5/16 and there are substantially
fewer voids than with other thicknesses. Using two sheets will give
you 5/8" with 6 plies.
I wouldn't consider voids less problematic on the inner layers because
most rot develops on the inside.
A good method for building a walk-on hull bottom is to laminate 1X6
pressure treated decking between 1/4" SYP ply. You can even treat the
ply with copper napthanate prior to assembly if you want a completely
rot-proof bottom. CN does not afect epoxy bonding.
Stories about epoxy not sticking to PT stem from using uncured (wet)
lumber. Also, the newer ACQ formulation does not develop a boundary
coating as it dries the way CCA did. If in doubt, just take the skin
off by running the planks through a planer. This helps with untreated
wood too.
Unfortunately, any layered hull is going to require a lot of epoxy
unless it is vacuum bagged. Developed sheets just don't lay together
very well.
Doug
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Howard Stephenson" <stephensonhw@a...>
wrote:
top of the head. The careless co-worker drove him to the hospital
where a surgeon removed it. The victim was said to have recovered and
gone back to work.
Stories like this always get more attention than the hundreds of cases
where people crucify themselves each year. Dear wife's employer had to
get rid of nail guns after two workers nailed their feet to pallets
within the first year of business.
Doug
wrote:
> (Last week, someone working by himself not far from here accidentlyAbout eight years ago a construction worker took a 12D gun nail in the
> fired a nail from one of these into his aorta. He drove a mile or so
> to raise the alarm, a helicopter took him to hospital where a heart
> surgeon just happened to be available, and he is now giving TV
> interviews. An amazing escape).
top of the head. The careless co-worker drove him to the hospital
where a surgeon removed it. The victim was said to have recovered and
gone back to work.
Stories like this always get more attention than the hundreds of cases
where people crucify themselves each year. Dear wife's employer had to
get rid of nail guns after two workers nailed their feet to pallets
within the first year of business.
Doug
It's possible to buy good-quality 7/8" hardwood (jarrah) t+g flooring
here. But there must be a reason why people don't build boats out of
it. I think it's to do with the way planks swell when they get wet.
Traditional planking relies on caulked seams to provide a kind of
expansion joint between the planks. It wouldn't be too easy to caulk
a t+g seam ...
Maybe you could leave a slight gap and fill it with synthetic seam
compound as you go, then nail and glue one or two layers of ply over
the top. PCB tried a similar idea with Shivaree, but using ordinary
strips of timber and without ply on the outside.
Howard
here. But there must be a reason why people don't build boats out of
it. I think it's to do with the way planks swell when they get wet.
Traditional planking relies on caulked seams to provide a kind of
expansion joint between the planks. It wouldn't be too easy to caulk
a t+g seam ...
Maybe you could leave a slight gap and fill it with synthetic seam
compound as you go, then nail and glue one or two layers of ply over
the top. PCB tried a similar idea with Shivaree, but using ordinary
strips of timber and without ply on the outside.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@h...> wrote:
>I've thought
> of using T&G flooring for the first layer on the bottom of a boat.
> Not cheap, but would provide good purchase for screwing down the
> outer layer.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Howard Stephenson"
<stephensonhw@a...> wrote:
of using T&G flooring for the first layer on the bottom of a boat.
Not cheap, but would provide good purchase for screwing down the
outer layer.
Then a nice rug infront of the fireplace - to finish off the cabin:-)
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BackyardBoatbuilding2/
Cheers, Nels
<stephensonhw@a...> wrote:
>say
> George Buehler, in his "Backyard Boatbuilding" has quite a lot to
> about building large chine hulls with plywood.There are a couple groups about that type of building. I've thought
of using T&G flooring for the first layer on the bottom of a boat.
Not cheap, but would provide good purchase for screwing down the
outer layer.
Then a nice rug infront of the fireplace - to finish off the cabin:-)
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BackyardBoatbuilding2/
Cheers, Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Philip Smith <pbs@w...> wrote:
the bottom?
I don't actually see how you will save any money because what little
you save on plywood, will be more than eaten up in extra filler,
paint, epoxy, sanding supplies and additional work and aggravation.
If using thinner plywood you will have to use heavier glass which
uses even more epoxy.
If you want to save money build a smaller boat and build it using the
best materials you can afford. You will never regret it by the time
you are done.
The last place to try to save is in the hull. Anything else can be
upgraded or improved later on but the hull is the heart and soul of
the boat.
I just covered LESTAT today and after 12 or 13 years, there is not a
hint of damage or rot anywhere. It has never been kept inside all
that time either, to my knowledge.
Cheers, Nels
> Here's what I think I'll do with regard to plywood:I am wondering which designs require more than one course, except for
> I'll buy good plywood, MDO or even marine grade
> plywood for the outside course. Then I'll buy pretty
> good plywood for the rest of the courses.
>
the bottom?
I don't actually see how you will save any money because what little
you save on plywood, will be more than eaten up in extra filler,
paint, epoxy, sanding supplies and additional work and aggravation.
If using thinner plywood you will have to use heavier glass which
uses even more epoxy.
If you want to save money build a smaller boat and build it using the
best materials you can afford. You will never regret it by the time
you are done.
The last place to try to save is in the hull. Anything else can be
upgraded or improved later on but the hull is the heart and soul of
the boat.
I just covered LESTAT today and after 12 or 13 years, there is not a
hint of damage or rot anywhere. It has never been kept inside all
that time either, to my knowledge.
Cheers, Nels
George Buehler, in his "Backyard Boatbuilding" has quite a lot to say
about building large chine hulls with plywood. One of his suggestions
is to strip-plank the inner skin with, say, 1-1/2' x 2-1/4" strips,
then nail and glue a couple of layers of 1/2" MDO ply over it.
Whether this is would be economical would depend on how much you had
to pay for the strips. The work would not be difficult -- no need for
scarfs in the ply, and most of it would go on as whole sheets on a
big boat -- but it would be time-consuming. A nailgun would be a
useful tool, if you could get one that fires the right kind of nails.
(Last week, someone working by himself not far from here accidently
fired a nail from one of these into his aorta. He drove a mile or so
to raise the alarm, a helicopter took him to hospital where a heart
surgeon just happened to be available, and he is now giving TV
interviews. An amazing escape).
Howard
about building large chine hulls with plywood. One of his suggestions
is to strip-plank the inner skin with, say, 1-1/2' x 2-1/4" strips,
then nail and glue a couple of layers of 1/2" MDO ply over it.
Whether this is would be economical would depend on how much you had
to pay for the strips. The work would not be difficult -- no need for
scarfs in the ply, and most of it would go on as whole sheets on a
big boat -- but it would be time-consuming. A nailgun would be a
useful tool, if you could get one that fires the right kind of nails.
(Last week, someone working by himself not far from here accidently
fired a nail from one of these into his aorta. He drove a mile or so
to raise the alarm, a helicopter took him to hospital where a heart
surgeon just happened to be available, and he is now giving TV
interviews. An amazing escape).
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Philip Smith <pbs@w...> wrote:
> I've been thinking about building one of Bolger's
> bigger boats.
> Here's what I think I'll do with regard to plywood:
> I'll buy good plywood,
You are right of course.
It can be done that way, but (and you knew that was coming), the bulk of the
plywood seems to go into the skins, so your savings won't be a big
percentage and your hourly rate working the stacks will be low. If you're
going to have a fancy finish inside where you can admire it while ... you'll
be doing a lot of patch and cover. That may be all right, just something to
keep in mind.
On a large order, there's a bulk discount and a few extra sheets for the
bulkhead defining the saloon will be minimal versus the fancy mainsheet
blocks and high tech lines.
Have you considered Rose as one of PCB's bigger boats?
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
It can be done that way, but (and you knew that was coming), the bulk of the
plywood seems to go into the skins, so your savings won't be a big
percentage and your hourly rate working the stacks will be low. If you're
going to have a fancy finish inside where you can admire it while ... you'll
be doing a lot of patch and cover. That may be all right, just something to
keep in mind.
On a large order, there's a bulk discount and a few extra sheets for the
bulkhead defining the saloon will be minimal versus the fancy mainsheet
blocks and high tech lines.
Have you considered Rose as one of PCB's bigger boats?
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip Smith" <pbs@...>
> I've been thinking about building one of Bolger's
> bigger boats. If the truth be known, I've thought
> about building all of his bigger boats with the
> possible exception of Joseph Banks, but if I really
> think about it, I've thought about building Joseph
> Banks too.
>
> Here's what I think I'll do with regard to plywood:
> I'll buy good plywood, MDO or even marine grade
> plywood for the outside course. Then I'll buy pretty
> good plywood for the rest of the courses.
>
> By pretty good plywood, I'll look around for a good
> deal on plywood with lots of layers and not very many
> voids. What I'll find when I need it will be different
> from what's available now.
>
> My theory is that the outside layer ought to be good
> and substantially void free. Subsequent layers are
> MUCH less critical. The water's got to get through the
> first layer of plywood and all of the plies to get to
> the pretty good plywood. If I'm careful with the first
> layer and use lots of epoxy sensibly, then the water
> tight integrity ought to be well assured.
>
> This makes the thought of building a bigger boat less
> daunting and less expensive than if you just count up
> the 'leventy-seven sheets of plywood and multiply by
> too high a number. This also frees you up to buy
> plywood that is thinner than what you think of as
> being ideal because you can adjust the total thickness
> with the subsequent courses of pretty good plywood.
>
> I'd also check with Phil Bolger and Friends to make
> sure that my substituting of the thicknesses was OK.
>
> Phil Smith
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
I've been thinking about building one of Bolger's
bigger boats. If the truth be known, I've thought
about building all of his bigger boats with the
possible exception of Joseph Banks, but if I really
think about it, I've thought about building Joseph
Banks too.
Here's what I think I'll do with regard to plywood:
I'll buy good plywood, MDO or even marine grade
plywood for the outside course. Then I'll buy pretty
good plywood for the rest of the courses.
By pretty good plywood, I'll look around for a good
deal on plywood with lots of layers and not very many
voids. What I'll find when I need it will be different
from what's available now.
My theory is that the outside layer ought to be good
and substantially void free. Subsequent layers are
MUCH less critical. The water's got to get through the
first layer of plywood and all of the plies to get to
the pretty good plywood. If I'm careful with the first
layer and use lots of epoxy sensibly, then the water
tight integrity ought to be well assured.
This makes the thought of building a bigger boat less
daunting and less expensive than if you just count up
the 'leventy-seven sheets of plywood and multiply by
too high a number. This also frees you up to buy
plywood that is thinner than what you think of as
being ideal because you can adjust the total thickness
with the subsequent courses of pretty good plywood.
I'd also check with Phil Bolger and Friends to make
sure that my substituting of the thicknesses was OK.
Phil Smith
bigger boats. If the truth be known, I've thought
about building all of his bigger boats with the
possible exception of Joseph Banks, but if I really
think about it, I've thought about building Joseph
Banks too.
Here's what I think I'll do with regard to plywood:
I'll buy good plywood, MDO or even marine grade
plywood for the outside course. Then I'll buy pretty
good plywood for the rest of the courses.
By pretty good plywood, I'll look around for a good
deal on plywood with lots of layers and not very many
voids. What I'll find when I need it will be different
from what's available now.
My theory is that the outside layer ought to be good
and substantially void free. Subsequent layers are
MUCH less critical. The water's got to get through the
first layer of plywood and all of the plies to get to
the pretty good plywood. If I'm careful with the first
layer and use lots of epoxy sensibly, then the water
tight integrity ought to be well assured.
This makes the thought of building a bigger boat less
daunting and less expensive than if you just count up
the 'leventy-seven sheets of plywood and multiply by
too high a number. This also frees you up to buy
plywood that is thinner than what you think of as
being ideal because you can adjust the total thickness
with the subsequent courses of pretty good plywood.
I'd also check with Phil Bolger and Friends to make
sure that my substituting of the thicknesses was OK.
Phil Smith
Home Depot is about 2 miles from my house and I seem to be there at
least once a week. But, I would not use any of the lumber or plywood
I have purchsed there to build a boat. I try to pick through the
pile carefully, but so does everyone else and most of what I see is
junk.
By the time you launch your boat, you will probably spend much more
than you expect, and the cost of decent plywood is not such a big
percentage of the total. Also, compared to AC fir, good quality
Okoume (SP?) or other marine mahogany is much more pleasant to work
with.
Rob
least once a week. But, I would not use any of the lumber or plywood
I have purchsed there to build a boat. I try to pick through the
pile carefully, but so does everyone else and most of what I see is
junk.
By the time you launch your boat, you will probably spend much more
than you expect, and the cost of decent plywood is not such a big
percentage of the total. Also, compared to AC fir, good quality
Okoume (SP?) or other marine mahogany is much more pleasant to work
with.
Rob
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "pp01138" <pp01138@p...> wrote:
>
> It's been a year since I built a boat, and I used some 1/4 " I
picked
> up at Lowe's or Home Depot for that. I have noticed recently that
> Lowe's lists there plywood in a company wide catalog, so they
> apparently have a reasonably consistent product. Lately, their
stores
> have been carrying a better grade of "luan" than previously. It is
> some sort of South American hardwood in 1/4"/6mm that is rated
> exterior, not just water resistent. Another big change is that it
is
> five ply, with slightly thinner outside veneers than in the core. I
> would like to build something from it to try it out.
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "carlmrwonderful"
> <carlmrwonderful@y...> wrote:
> >
> > I read with interest your remark about Home Depot plywood. In
April
> > I will be building my first boat, a Diablo Grande, and have been
> > reading as much as I could find on boat building plywood,
including
> > those of W. Payson from his books. So, if you could give me a
> > rundown of some of your experiances with the stuff I would really
> > appriciate it. Mr Payson, by the way, extools the quality of AC
> > plywood from stores like Home Depot for building boats.
It's been a year since I built a boat, and I used some 1/4 " I picked
up at Lowe's or Home Depot for that. I have noticed recently that
Lowe's lists there plywood in a company wide catalog, so they
apparently have a reasonably consistent product. Lately, their stores
have been carrying a better grade of "luan" than previously. It is
some sort of South American hardwood in 1/4"/6mm that is rated
exterior, not just water resistent. Another big change is that it is
five ply, with slightly thinner outside veneers than in the core. I
would like to build something from it to try it out.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "carlmrwonderful"
<carlmrwonderful@y...> wrote:
up at Lowe's or Home Depot for that. I have noticed recently that
Lowe's lists there plywood in a company wide catalog, so they
apparently have a reasonably consistent product. Lately, their stores
have been carrying a better grade of "luan" than previously. It is
some sort of South American hardwood in 1/4"/6mm that is rated
exterior, not just water resistent. Another big change is that it is
five ply, with slightly thinner outside veneers than in the core. I
would like to build something from it to try it out.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "carlmrwonderful"
<carlmrwonderful@y...> wrote:
>
> I read with interest your remark about Home Depot plywood. In April
> I will be building my first boat, a Diablo Grande, and have been
> reading as much as I could find on boat building plywood, including
> those of W. Payson from his books. So, if you could give me a
> rundown of some of your experiances with the stuff I would really
> appriciate it. Mr Payson, by the way, extools the quality of AC
> plywood from stores like Home Depot for building boats.
My first three boats, Gypsy, Chebacco and Nymph I built with with Home
Depot plywood - the first two with ACX and the last with luaun. All
three were sheathed externally with fiberglass set in epoxy. I no
longer own any of them so I really don't know what the longevity will
be. My approach in buying wood at HD was to shuffle through the pile
and select the best examples I could find. This involved quite a bit
of time and work, but was well worth it. Some (most?) of the plywood
and wood they stock is absolutely abominable.
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "carlmrwonderful"
<carlmrwonderful@y...> wrote:
Depot plywood - the first two with ACX and the last with luaun. All
three were sheathed externally with fiberglass set in epoxy. I no
longer own any of them so I really don't know what the longevity will
be. My approach in buying wood at HD was to shuffle through the pile
and select the best examples I could find. This involved quite a bit
of time and work, but was well worth it. Some (most?) of the plywood
and wood they stock is absolutely abominable.
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "carlmrwonderful"
<carlmrwonderful@y...> wrote:
>
> I read with interest your remark about Home Depot plywood. In April
> I will be building my first boat, a Diablo Grande, and have been
> reading as much as I could find on boat building plywood, including
> those of W. Payson from his books. So, if you could give me a
> rundown of some of your experiances with the stuff I would really
> appriciate it. Mr Payson, by the way, extools the quality of AC
> plywood from stores like Home Depot for building boats.
Mr Payson books were all written several years ago, plywood quality has
dropped markedly in that time. I believe that he also once made a
comment on 3/8's AC something like " It has a core that would shame a
used car salesman". I have used a lot of AC over the years but have
become very disappointed especially on my last project. Granted a lot of
Bolger boats can be built quick for just a season or two of use, but I
would like it to at least make it to the water before disintegration
starts. If you are going to put fiberglass on or seal with epoxy than
use good wood either MDO or marine plywood.
HJ
carlmrwonderful wrote:
dropped markedly in that time. I believe that he also once made a
comment on 3/8's AC something like " It has a core that would shame a
used car salesman". I have used a lot of AC over the years but have
become very disappointed especially on my last project. Granted a lot of
Bolger boats can be built quick for just a season or two of use, but I
would like it to at least make it to the water before disintegration
starts. If you are going to put fiberglass on or seal with epoxy than
use good wood either MDO or marine plywood.
HJ
carlmrwonderful wrote:
>I read with interest your remark about Home Depot plywood. In April
>I will be building my first boat, a Diablo Grande, and have been
>reading as much as I could find on boat building plywood, including
>those of W. Payson from his books. So, if you could give me a
>rundown of some of your experiances with the stuff I would really
>appriciate it. Mr Payson, by the way, extools the quality of AC
>plywood from stores like Home Depot for building boats.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>.
>
>
>
My experience with them is that you never know
pot of boiling water....it was good to go. Went back to lowes a week
later and bought 2 more sheets, i guess from a dif. stack. When the
little turd of a boat was finished it delaminated on the transom
after a 200 mile drive in the rain to it's maiden launch. Personal i
would only use "good" wood or wood from a reliable source if i was
planing to spend more than $500 bucks on the boat.....i say plan
because no matter what you think it will cost it will cost you
more :)
Jason
> from one trip to the next - or one store to the next - that you'llget
> the same product you got before.Right on the money. I purchased a sheet of ply tested a piece in a
pot of boiling water....it was good to go. Went back to lowes a week
later and bought 2 more sheets, i guess from a dif. stack. When the
little turd of a boat was finished it delaminated on the transom
after a 200 mile drive in the rain to it's maiden launch. Personal i
would only use "good" wood or wood from a reliable source if i was
planing to spend more than $500 bucks on the boat.....i say plan
because no matter what you think it will cost it will cost you
more :)
Jason
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "carlmrwonderful"
<carlmrwonderful@y...> wrote:
Hi Carl,
Had to jump in here. I own an architectural woodwork firm in Portland,
OR. We do not buy a lot from HomeDepot or Lowes, but have had some
experience with both. My experience with them is that you never know
from one trip to the next - or one store to the next - that you'll get
the same product you got before. A careful reading of Payson suggests
he's run afoul of the same phenomenon.
This same dynamic plays out with my wholesale suppliers of lumber &
plywood also. The difference is, they know what it is they're selling,
where it came from, and the exact specifications it was manufactured
to. It would likely be a huge and unlikely adventure to find someone
at the big-box stores who knows the source and specifications of the
pile of plywood you're currently looking at.
One solution is to buy from a knowledgable supplier, like Edensaw in
Pt. Townsend, WA.; Crosscuts in Portland, OR - or others in other
parts of the country. Or, if you have a contact who will purchase
material for you from a wholesale lumberyard. Another strategy is to
buy only rated plywood, ie. 6566 or 1088. This eliminates the guesswork.
I doubt you'll find anyone who can accurately & knowledgably address
your question regarding HD. I strongly suspect that there is no
general answer. If you're looking to find a bargain, I think it'll be
a case of "pays your money & takes your chances". Not the approach I'd
recommend. It's been stated many times & places. The cost of plywood
for the hull is not that large a proportion of the final costs of a
finished, outfitted boat. My gut tells me to pingle up the little bit
extra for something I'm trusting not to drown me or my loved ones, and
not to drive me to distraction with maintainance issues down the road.
Anyone else have more info, or a different opinion?
Cheers,
David Graybeal
"Have you ever noticed? Anybody going slower than you is an idiot, and
anyone going faster is a maniac?" - George Carlin
<carlmrwonderful@y...> wrote:
>********************
> I read with interest your remark about Home Depot plywood. In April
> I will be building my first boat, a Diablo Grande, and have been
> reading as much as I could find on boat building plywood, including
> those of W. Payson from his books. So, if you could give me a
> rundown of some of your experiances with the stuff I would really
> appriciate it. Mr Payson, by the way, extools the quality of AC
> plywood from stores like Home Depot for building boats.
Hi Carl,
Had to jump in here. I own an architectural woodwork firm in Portland,
OR. We do not buy a lot from HomeDepot or Lowes, but have had some
experience with both. My experience with them is that you never know
from one trip to the next - or one store to the next - that you'll get
the same product you got before. A careful reading of Payson suggests
he's run afoul of the same phenomenon.
This same dynamic plays out with my wholesale suppliers of lumber &
plywood also. The difference is, they know what it is they're selling,
where it came from, and the exact specifications it was manufactured
to. It would likely be a huge and unlikely adventure to find someone
at the big-box stores who knows the source and specifications of the
pile of plywood you're currently looking at.
One solution is to buy from a knowledgable supplier, like Edensaw in
Pt. Townsend, WA.; Crosscuts in Portland, OR - or others in other
parts of the country. Or, if you have a contact who will purchase
material for you from a wholesale lumberyard. Another strategy is to
buy only rated plywood, ie. 6566 or 1088. This eliminates the guesswork.
I doubt you'll find anyone who can accurately & knowledgably address
your question regarding HD. I strongly suspect that there is no
general answer. If you're looking to find a bargain, I think it'll be
a case of "pays your money & takes your chances". Not the approach I'd
recommend. It's been stated many times & places. The cost of plywood
for the hull is not that large a proportion of the final costs of a
finished, outfitted boat. My gut tells me to pingle up the little bit
extra for something I'm trusting not to drown me or my loved ones, and
not to drive me to distraction with maintainance issues down the road.
Anyone else have more info, or a different opinion?
Cheers,
David Graybeal
"Have you ever noticed? Anybody going slower than you is an idiot, and
anyone going faster is a maniac?" - George Carlin
I read with interest your remark about Home Depot plywood. In April
I will be building my first boat, a Diablo Grande, and have been
reading as much as I could find on boat building plywood, including
those of W. Payson from his books. So, if you could give me a
rundown of some of your experiances with the stuff I would really
appriciate it. Mr Payson, by the way, extools the quality of AC
plywood from stores like Home Depot for building boats.
I will be building my first boat, a Diablo Grande, and have been
reading as much as I could find on boat building plywood, including
those of W. Payson from his books. So, if you could give me a
rundown of some of your experiances with the stuff I would really
appriciate it. Mr Payson, by the way, extools the quality of AC
plywood from stores like Home Depot for building boats.