Re: Weldwood vs. Titebond II?...Type II Testing
I don't now if anyone else has found this info. so here we go. I
found their web site and some info on Type II testing. Check out the
link below to see additional info on Titebond.
00341 Revision Date: 3/10/00
What is the difference between Type I and Type II testing?
Type I testing: boiling for 4 hours; oven at 140�F for 19 hours.
This
happens for 2 cycles and then the bonds are checked for delamination.
The bonds are then broken and must pass a certain strength before
they break. The bonds are checked for wood failure.
Type II testing: Wood soaked for 4 hours; oven at 120�F for 19
hours.
This repeated for a total of 3 cycles. The bonds are inspected for
delamination.
Both of these tests are done on 2" by 5" birch 3 ply plywood. Set up
like plywood- using 3-5 plys of wood.
�1999 Franklin International Legal Disclaimer Privacy Policy
http://www.titebond.com/
I think I will be using more of this stuff on my next boat.
Mark in MN.
found their web site and some info on Type II testing. Check out the
link below to see additional info on Titebond.
00341 Revision Date: 3/10/00
What is the difference between Type I and Type II testing?
Type I testing: boiling for 4 hours; oven at 140�F for 19 hours.
This
happens for 2 cycles and then the bonds are checked for delamination.
The bonds are then broken and must pass a certain strength before
they break. The bonds are checked for wood failure.
Type II testing: Wood soaked for 4 hours; oven at 120�F for 19
hours.
This repeated for a total of 3 cycles. The bonds are inspected for
delamination.
Both of these tests are done on 2" by 5" birch 3 ply plywood. Set up
like plywood- using 3-5 plys of wood.
�1999 Franklin International Legal Disclaimer Privacy Policy
http://www.titebond.com/
I think I will be using more of this stuff on my next boat.
Mark in MN.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Garth Battista" <garth@b...> wrote:
> I recently built a Michalak Toto (and before that, a Windsprint).
> When it came time to glue on Toto's wales, I thought, OK, rather
than
> gooping it up with the sure thing, epoxy, I'll finally try wood
glue,
> as per Payson's book, and Michalak's instructions. No Weldwood to
be
> found at our lumberyard, but they had this bottle of premixed
> Titebond II, quite inexpensive.
> It says it "outperforms all other wood glues." "Passes ANSI
> Type II water resistance testing." "Ideal for exterior uses" but
> "not recommended for use below the waterline or for continuous
> submersion." All sounds OK for wales, I guess. But how does it
stack
> up against the most-mentioned wood glue, Weldwood? And what exactly
> are the ANSI Type II water resistance standards?
>
> Has anyone ever used both and formed an opinion as to which is
best?
> The Titebond is a cinch to apply, with its applicator nozzle. But
is
> it just a glorified Elmer's? Any advice appreciated.
>
> Looking forward to the next boat,
> Garth
In England it is nigh on impossible to find Weldwood... The Titebond
sounds like our local equivilant.."Hard as Nails" and looks like
glorified Elmers... I have just started using a product by Humbrol
(big UK adhesives co.)called Cascamite.. Other European builders
might find this useful. It is easy to find, comes as a powder and
mixes with water.. Even says on container.. Suitable for
Boatbuilding!! It costs about $24 for 1.5kg of powder (about a third
of price of epoxy).
I have used Epoxy on my Micro for the Hull, Bulkheads and saved some
to glue together the keel and stick in lead plug. The Cascamite is
being used for decks etc...
It sounds like my Cascamite is identical to Weldwood.. Can I use it
to glue my 25' mast together???
sounds like our local equivilant.."Hard as Nails" and looks like
glorified Elmers... I have just started using a product by Humbrol
(big UK adhesives co.)called Cascamite.. Other European builders
might find this useful. It is easy to find, comes as a powder and
mixes with water.. Even says on container.. Suitable for
Boatbuilding!! It costs about $24 for 1.5kg of powder (about a third
of price of epoxy).
I have used Epoxy on my Micro for the Hull, Bulkheads and saved some
to glue together the keel and stick in lead plug. The Cascamite is
being used for decks etc...
It sounds like my Cascamite is identical to Weldwood.. Can I use it
to glue my 25' mast together???
For Fiberglass Coatings offerings etc., go to www.fgci.com
And you can get their products in jugs-you just have to ask-their default is
paint cans. The paint cans suck.
Robert & Amy Lundy
St. Petersburg, fla.
robert@...
amy@...
And you can get their products in jugs-you just have to ask-their default is
paint cans. The paint cans suck.
Robert & Amy Lundy
St. Petersburg, fla.
robert@...
amy@...
> -----Original Message-----
> From:gbship@...[mailto:gbship@...]
> Sent: April 06, 2000 1:17 AM
> To:bolger@egroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Weldwood vs. Titebond II?
>
>
> Titebond II has held well in a variety of uses on three different
> boats; from masts to rubrails. The only way I've gotten it to fail is
> to boil or soak for a long time test joints. They don't fail on their
> own, but the glue is substantially weakened. It seems to regain its
> strength when the joint dries. Dry it seems to hold as well as epoxy.
> It especially seems appropriate when the boat will be sealed with
> epoxy anyway.
>
> Here in the humid south, I've had problems with Weldwood. Two masts
> using this as the sole adhesive both delaminated in the hot sun. So I
> avoid weldwood and use the cheaper and easier Titebond II.
>
> Gary Blankenship
> Tallahassee, FL
>
> P.S. Someone a couple weeks ago had a question about Clear Cote and
> Fiberglass Coatings Inc. epoxies. They are two different companies,
> but both are in St. Petersburg, FL. I don't have addresses or nubmers
> handy, but you can get that from directory assistance; area code 727.
> Of the two, Fiberglass Coatings seems to have a wider variety of
> epoxies, I like them better and they are a few dollars cheaper. Big
> drawback is they sell it in paint cans, which makes it impossible to
> pour small amounts (I use small dixie type cups to dip it out....).
> I've heard they will on request sell in plastic bottles, will find
> that out when I visit them later today!
>
>
> -- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Garth Battista" <garth@b...> wrote:
> > I recently built a Michalak Toto (and before that, a Windsprint).
> > When it came time to glue on Toto's wales, I thought, OK, rather
> than
> > gooping it up with the sure thing, epoxy, I'll finally try wood
> glue,
> > as per Payson's book, and Michalak's instructions. No Weldwood to
> be
> > found at our lumberyard, but they had this bottle of premixed
> > Titebond II, quite inexpensive.
> > It says it "outperforms all other wood glues." "Passes ANSI
> > Type II water resistance testing." "Ideal for exterior uses" but
> > "not recommended for use below the waterline or for continuous
> > submersion." All sounds OK for wales, I guess. But how does it
> stack
> > up against the most-mentioned wood glue, Weldwood? And what exactly
> > are the ANSI Type II water resistance standards?
> >
> > Has anyone ever used both and formed an opinion as to which is
> best?
> > The Titebond is a cinch to apply, with its applicator nozzle. But
> is
> > it just a glorified Elmer's? Any advice appreciated.
> >
> > Looking forward to the next boat,
> > Garth
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
Titebond II has held well in a variety of uses on three different
boats; from masts to rubrails. The only way I've gotten it to fail is
to boil or soak for a long time test joints. They don't fail on their
own, but the glue is substantially weakened. It seems to regain its
strength when the joint dries. Dry it seems to hold as well as epoxy.
It especially seems appropriate when the boat will be sealed with
epoxy anyway.
Here in the humid south, I've had problems with Weldwood. Two masts
using this as the sole adhesive both delaminated in the hot sun. So I
avoid weldwood and use the cheaper and easier Titebond II.
Gary Blankenship
Tallahassee, FL
P.S. Someone a couple weeks ago had a question about Clear Cote and
Fiberglass Coatings Inc. epoxies. They are two different companies,
but both are in St. Petersburg, FL. I don't have addresses or nubmers
handy, but you can get that from directory assistance; area code 727.
Of the two, Fiberglass Coatings seems to have a wider variety of
epoxies, I like them better and they are a few dollars cheaper. Big
drawback is they sell it in paint cans, which makes it impossible to
pour small amounts (I use small dixie type cups to dip it out....).
I've heard they will on request sell in plastic bottles, will find
that out when I visit them later today!
-- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Garth Battista" <garth@b...> wrote:
boats; from masts to rubrails. The only way I've gotten it to fail is
to boil or soak for a long time test joints. They don't fail on their
own, but the glue is substantially weakened. It seems to regain its
strength when the joint dries. Dry it seems to hold as well as epoxy.
It especially seems appropriate when the boat will be sealed with
epoxy anyway.
Here in the humid south, I've had problems with Weldwood. Two masts
using this as the sole adhesive both delaminated in the hot sun. So I
avoid weldwood and use the cheaper and easier Titebond II.
Gary Blankenship
Tallahassee, FL
P.S. Someone a couple weeks ago had a question about Clear Cote and
Fiberglass Coatings Inc. epoxies. They are two different companies,
but both are in St. Petersburg, FL. I don't have addresses or nubmers
handy, but you can get that from directory assistance; area code 727.
Of the two, Fiberglass Coatings seems to have a wider variety of
epoxies, I like them better and they are a few dollars cheaper. Big
drawback is they sell it in paint cans, which makes it impossible to
pour small amounts (I use small dixie type cups to dip it out....).
I've heard they will on request sell in plastic bottles, will find
that out when I visit them later today!
-- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Garth Battista" <garth@b...> wrote:
> I recently built a Michalak Toto (and before that, a Windsprint).than
> When it came time to glue on Toto's wales, I thought, OK, rather
> gooping it up with the sure thing, epoxy, I'll finally try woodglue,
> as per Payson's book, and Michalak's instructions. No Weldwood tobe
> found at our lumberyard, but they had this bottle of premixedstack
> Titebond II, quite inexpensive.
> It says it "outperforms all other wood glues." "Passes ANSI
> Type II water resistance testing." "Ideal for exterior uses" but
> "not recommended for use below the waterline or for continuous
> submersion." All sounds OK for wales, I guess. But how does it
> up against the most-mentioned wood glue, Weldwood? And what exactlybest?
> are the ANSI Type II water resistance standards?
>
> Has anyone ever used both and formed an opinion as to which is
> The Titebond is a cinch to apply, with its applicator nozzle. Butis
> it just a glorified Elmer's? Any advice appreciated.
>
> Looking forward to the next boat,
> Garth
Garth
I used Tirtebond II on the gunnels of a glued lapstrake sailing canoe
that I built two years ago. I have sailed the boat frequently for
the past two years and all is fine. Also, I glued the scarfs for the
inwales and outwales with Titebond II (I am too cheap to spring for
lumber that long) and they are holding up fine. I am now using
Titebond II for most of the joining above the waterline in a Bolger
Oldshoe which is now under (slow) construction.
Andy Farquhar
afarquhar@...
I used Tirtebond II on the gunnels of a glued lapstrake sailing canoe
that I built two years ago. I have sailed the boat frequently for
the past two years and all is fine. Also, I glued the scarfs for the
inwales and outwales with Titebond II (I am too cheap to spring for
lumber that long) and they are holding up fine. I am now using
Titebond II for most of the joining above the waterline in a Bolger
Oldshoe which is now under (slow) construction.
Andy Farquhar
afarquhar@...
I used the Titebond II on a saw horse leg. (I was about a foot short
and no other 2x4's on hand) I used a butt joint with a 2x4 butt block
and no fastners. The joint has lasted 3 years being stored outside,
unpainted.
I am currently using this saw horse in the garage to hold up my 12'
sailing skiff that I am waiting to paint (still to cold...).
I would use it...
Mark in MN.
and no other 2x4's on hand) I used a butt joint with a 2x4 butt block
and no fastners. The joint has lasted 3 years being stored outside,
unpainted.
I am currently using this saw horse in the garage to hold up my 12'
sailing skiff that I am waiting to paint (still to cold...).
I would use it...
Mark in MN.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Garth Battista" <garth@b...> wrote:
> I recently built a Michalak Toto (and before that, a Windsprint).
> When it came time to glue on Toto's wales, I thought, OK, rather
than
> gooping it up with the sure thing, epoxy, I'll finally try wood
glue,
> as per Payson's book, and Michalak's instructions. No Weldwood to
be
> found at our lumberyard, but they had this bottle of premixed
> Titebond II, quite inexpensive.
> It says it "outperforms all other wood glues." "Passes ANSI
> Type II water resistance testing." "Ideal for exterior uses" but
> "not recommended for use below the waterline or for continuous
> submersion." All sounds OK for wales, I guess. But how does it
stack
> up against the most-mentioned wood glue, Weldwood? And what exactly
> are the ANSI Type II water resistance standards?
>
> Has anyone ever used both and formed an opinion as to which is
best?
> The Titebond is a cinch to apply, with its applicator nozzle. But
is
> it just a glorified Elmer's? Any advice appreciated.
>
> Looking forward to the next boat,
> Garth
I recently built a Michalak Toto (and before that, a Windsprint).
When it came time to glue on Toto's wales, I thought, OK, rather than
gooping it up with the sure thing, epoxy, I'll finally try wood glue,
as per Payson's book, and Michalak's instructions. No Weldwood to be
found at our lumberyard, but they had this bottle of premixed
Titebond II, quite inexpensive.
It says it "outperforms all other wood glues." "Passes ANSI
Type II water resistance testing." "Ideal for exterior uses" but
"not recommended for use below the waterline or for continuous
submersion." All sounds OK for wales, I guess. But how does it stack
up against the most-mentioned wood glue, Weldwood? And what exactly
are the ANSI Type II water resistance standards?
Has anyone ever used both and formed an opinion as to which is best?
The Titebond is a cinch to apply, with its applicator nozzle. But is
it just a glorified Elmer's? Any advice appreciated.
Looking forward to the next boat,
Garth
When it came time to glue on Toto's wales, I thought, OK, rather than
gooping it up with the sure thing, epoxy, I'll finally try wood glue,
as per Payson's book, and Michalak's instructions. No Weldwood to be
found at our lumberyard, but they had this bottle of premixed
Titebond II, quite inexpensive.
It says it "outperforms all other wood glues." "Passes ANSI
Type II water resistance testing." "Ideal for exterior uses" but
"not recommended for use below the waterline or for continuous
submersion." All sounds OK for wales, I guess. But how does it stack
up against the most-mentioned wood glue, Weldwood? And what exactly
are the ANSI Type II water resistance standards?
Has anyone ever used both and formed an opinion as to which is best?
The Titebond is a cinch to apply, with its applicator nozzle. But is
it just a glorified Elmer's? Any advice appreciated.
Looking forward to the next boat,
Garth