RE: [bolger] Fldg Schnr
I've lost track of who is in need of a different design nesting dingy, but
this sounds like a great rationale (translate excuse) to build a larger
boat.
Jim C.
this sounds like a great rationale (translate excuse) to build a larger
boat.
Jim C.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Hardings [mailto:harding2@...]
> Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2000 8:02 PM
> To:bolger@egroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Fldg Schnr
>
>
> It has been awhile but we are back at the folding Schooner. You may
> remember we made the
> bottom of the front hull of 1/4 Luan and epoxy and glass. The bottom of
> the aft hull is 3/8
> MDO. It is rough cut and waiting for a warm day to epoxy. I also need to
> get a new flush
> cutting bit for the router to finish the bottom once it is on. Working
> the MDO has been great
> and I would build the whole boat out of it if I had to do it over. I do
> find some very small
> voids in this material when I cut it. But it is 5 layer and very strong
> compared to the Luan.
>
> I have reported all of the painful mistakes in order to give a realistic
> report of amateur building.
> My 14 year old son helped me put in the frames on the aft hull and
> somehow we got one of
> them in almost 1/4 low. Epoxy fillet to the rescue. The other thing we
> did which worked great
> was to make a long sanding board out of a 2x4 and floor sanding paper.
> We used this to sand
> the chines after we had sawn them on the table saw to near the right
> bevel. This works very
> well to give a nice flat plane for the bottom. Push it back and forth
> constantly changing the
> horizontal angle.
>
> Furture updates to come.
> Leander
> It has been awhile but we are back at the folding Schooner. You may
> remember we made the
> bottom of the front hull of 1/4 Luan and epoxy and glass. The bottom of
> the aft hull is 3/8
> MDO. It is rough cut and waiting for a warm day to epoxy. I also need to
> get a new flush
> cutting bit for the router to finish the bottom once it is on. Working
> the MDO has been great
> and I would build the whole boat out of it if I had to do it over. I do
> find some very small
> voids in this material when I cut it. But it is 5 layer and very strong
> compared to the Luan.
>
> I have reported all of the painful mistakes in order to give a realistic
> report of amateur building.
> My 14 year old son helped me put in the frames on the aft hull and
> somehow we got one of
> them in almost 1/4 low. Epoxy fillet to the rescue. The other thing we
> did which worked great
> was to make a long sanding board out of a 2x4 and floor sanding paper.
> We used this to sand
> the chines after we had sawn them on the table saw to near the right
> bevel. This works very
> well to give a nice flat plane for the bottom. Push it back and forth
> constantly changing the
> horizontal angle.
>
> Furture updates to come.
> Leander
>
>
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>
It has been awhile but we are back at the folding Schooner. You may
remember we made the
bottom of the front hull of 1/4 Luan and epoxy and glass. The bottom of
the aft hull is 3/8
MDO. It is rough cut and waiting for a warm day to epoxy. I also need to
get a new flush
cutting bit for the router to finish the bottom once it is on. Working
the MDO has been great
and I would build the whole boat out of it if I had to do it over. I do
find some very small
voids in this material when I cut it. But it is 5 layer and very strong
compared to the Luan.
I have reported all of the painful mistakes in order to give a realistic
report of amateur building.
My 14 year old son helped me put in the frames on the aft hull and
somehow we got one of
them in almost 1/4 low. Epoxy fillet to the rescue. The other thing we
did which worked great
was to make a long sanding board out of a 2x4 and floor sanding paper.
We used this to sand
the chines after we had sawn them on the table saw to near the right
bevel. This works very
well to give a nice flat plane for the bottom. Push it back and forth
constantly changing the
horizontal angle.
Furture updates to come.
Leander
It has been awhile but we are back at the folding Schooner. You may
remember we made the
bottom of the front hull of 1/4 Luan and epoxy and glass. The bottom of
the aft hull is 3/8
MDO. It is rough cut and waiting for a warm day to epoxy. I also need to
get a new flush
cutting bit for the router to finish the bottom once it is on. Working
the MDO has been great
and I would build the whole boat out of it if I had to do it over. I do
find some very small
voids in this material when I cut it. But it is 5 layer and very strong
compared to the Luan.
I have reported all of the painful mistakes in order to give a realistic
report of amateur building.
My 14 year old son helped me put in the frames on the aft hull and
somehow we got one of
them in almost 1/4 low. Epoxy fillet to the rescue. The other thing we
did which worked great
was to make a long sanding board out of a 2x4 and floor sanding paper.
We used this to sand
the chines after we had sawn them on the table saw to near the right
bevel. This works very
well to give a nice flat plane for the bottom. Push it back and forth
constantly changing the
horizontal angle.
Furture updates to come.
Leander
remember we made the
bottom of the front hull of 1/4 Luan and epoxy and glass. The bottom of
the aft hull is 3/8
MDO. It is rough cut and waiting for a warm day to epoxy. I also need to
get a new flush
cutting bit for the router to finish the bottom once it is on. Working
the MDO has been great
and I would build the whole boat out of it if I had to do it over. I do
find some very small
voids in this material when I cut it. But it is 5 layer and very strong
compared to the Luan.
I have reported all of the painful mistakes in order to give a realistic
report of amateur building.
My 14 year old son helped me put in the frames on the aft hull and
somehow we got one of
them in almost 1/4 low. Epoxy fillet to the rescue. The other thing we
did which worked great
was to make a long sanding board out of a 2x4 and floor sanding paper.
We used this to sand
the chines after we had sawn them on the table saw to near the right
bevel. This works very
well to give a nice flat plane for the bottom. Push it back and forth
constantly changing the
horizontal angle.
Furture updates to come.
Leander
It has been awhile but we are back at the folding Schooner. You may
remember we made the
bottom of the front hull of 1/4 Luan and epoxy and glass. The bottom of
the aft hull is 3/8
MDO. It is rough cut and waiting for a warm day to epoxy. I also need to
get a new flush
cutting bit for the router to finish the bottom once it is on. Working
the MDO has been great
and I would build the whole boat out of it if I had to do it over. I do
find some very small
voids in this material when I cut it. But it is 5 layer and very strong
compared to the Luan.
I have reported all of the painful mistakes in order to give a realistic
report of amateur building.
My 14 year old son helped me put in the frames on the aft hull and
somehow we got one of
them in almost 1/4 low. Epoxy fillet to the rescue. The other thing we
did which worked great
was to make a long sanding board out of a 2x4 and floor sanding paper.
We used this to sand
the chines after we had sawn them on the table saw to near the right
bevel. This works very
well to give a nice flat plane for the bottom. Push it back and forth
constantly changing the
horizontal angle.
Furture updates to come.
Leander