Re: Stitch and Glue
John,
I guess this most apropriately nails my concerns.
Don
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John B. Trussell"
<John.Trussell@w...> wrote:
these boats out of MDO, the leftover pieces will obviously be MDO.
Hence the question.
experiments on scrap and to break the glue jont between the two MDO
pieces required a chisel and mallet, The epoxy and paper held
together and the break involved tearing/splintering of the plywood
itself. While this "test was neither scientific nor exhaustive, it
gives me some confidence.
I guess this most apropriately nails my concerns.
Don
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John B. Trussell"
<John.Trussell@w...> wrote:
> Jim Michalak specifies rudders and leeboards laminated fromplywood left over from planking and bulkheads. If building one of
these boats out of MDO, the leftover pieces will obviously be MDO.
Hence the question.
>glue up rudder and leeboard from MDO. I have conducted a few
> I am currently building the Toon 19 and I hope it is possible to
experiments on scrap and to break the glue jont between the two MDO
pieces required a chisel and mallet, The epoxy and paper held
together and the break involved tearing/splintering of the plywood
itself. While this "test was neither scientific nor exhaustive, it
gives me some confidence.
>horses
> John T
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bruce Hallman
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 9:22 PM
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Stitch and Glue
>
>
> > Would it be okay for laminating several layers thick?
> > Don Tyson
>
> I can't think of a good reason why one would want to do so.
> In which boat?
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snipaway
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-
>-----------
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Yahoo! Groups Linksof Service.
>
> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/
>
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>bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Hallman
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2005 5:06 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Stitch and Glue
> you could spend your entire life building his
> boats and never getting them wet!
> Bill
Building boats is a worthwhile thing to do by itself.
I agree. It's a form of sculpture. (or so I keep telling my family).
Bill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> you could spend your entire life building hisBuilding boats is a worthwhile thing to do by itself.
> boats and never getting them wet!
> Bill
Some people knit sweaters for fun, I build boats.
Bruce wrote:
The trouble is that the next Bolger boat I want to build
is the last design I looked at, and that keeps changing.
Trouble is that PCB does such mouth-watering designs with equally mouth-watering writeups you could spend your entire life building his boats and never getting them wet!
I particularly value his comments on (I think) Blueberry - where he praises the builder/co-designer for building and then sticking with the boat rather than shelving it after one sail and starting on the next! [OK, if the cap fits . . .? I guess it fits most group members!]
Bill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
The trouble is that the next Bolger boat I want to build
is the last design I looked at, and that keeps changing.
Trouble is that PCB does such mouth-watering designs with equally mouth-watering writeups you could spend your entire life building his boats and never getting them wet!
I particularly value his comments on (I think) Blueberry - where he praises the builder/co-designer for building and then sticking with the boat rather than shelving it after one sail and starting on the next! [OK, if the cap fits . . .? I guess it fits most group members!]
Bill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> built up of 4 layers of 1/2" ply.Certainly. Though I would be tempted to use cheaper
plywood on the inner core, and the more expensive MDO
on the outer layers.
> It sounds like you have to get working on expandingThe trouble is that the next Bolger boat I want to build
> your fleet again :-)
is the last design I looked at, and that keeps changing.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
In some Bolger designs,including Windermere, he calls for the
stems(box-keel and hull) to be out of laminated
plywood.Similarily,outboard motor
boards,centerboards,leeboards,centerboard boxes are usually out of
laminated plywood.Even the perimeter roof core on Windermere is
built up of 4 layers of 1/2" ply.
It sounds like you have to get working on expanding your fleet
again :-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
> > Would it be okay for laminating several layers thick?Hi Bruce,
> > Don Tyson
>
> I can't think of a good reason why one would want to do so.
In some Bolger designs,including Windermere, he calls for the
stems(box-keel and hull) to be out of laminated
plywood.Similarily,outboard motor
boards,centerboards,leeboards,centerboard boxes are usually out of
laminated plywood.Even the perimeter roof core on Windermere is
built up of 4 layers of 1/2" ply.
It sounds like you have to get working on expanding your fleet
again :-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "tysond99" <tysond99@y...> wrote:
faying surfaces.That is,give it a thorough sanding,introduce some
hollowing(dishing) to the surface and pre-coat with clear epoxy
first since this surface really soaks up the juice and the last
thing you need with a lamination is glue starvation.
What application do you envision laminating"several layers" in?
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
>Absolutely! Just ensure that you take the time to properly prep the
> Would it be okay for laminating several layers thick?
> Don Tyson
faying surfaces.That is,give it a thorough sanding,introduce some
hollowing(dishing) to the surface and pre-coat with clear epoxy
first since this surface really soaks up the juice and the last
thing you need with a lamination is glue starvation.
What application do you envision laminating"several layers" in?
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
I found 3/8's" at Harbor Sales in MD. I haven't found any 1/4".
John T
John T
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Hallman
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 10:10 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Stitch and Glue
<John.Trussell@...> wrote:
>
> Jim Michalak specifies rudders and leeboards laminated from plywood left over from planking and bulkheads. If building one of these boats out of MDO, the leftover pieces will obviously be MDO. Hence the question.
Fair enough. Yes the stuff glues. The problem I have found is that it doesn't
come in thicknesses thinner than 1/2 inch. [At least from my supplier].
I wish I could buy it in 1/4" thickness, so many of the boats I like call for
1/4" plywood.
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Will work just fine. Glue and clamp - using appropriate "glue" - just like any two pieces of wood/plywood. The MDO will actually make a better bond. I've used it on boats for many years.
Ron Fossum
Ron Fossum
----- Original Message -----
From: John B. Trussell
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Stitch and Glue
Jim Michalak specifies rudders and leeboards laminated from plywood left over from planking and bulkheads. If building one of these boats out of MDO, the leftover pieces will obviously be MDO. Hence the question.
I am currently building the Toon 19 and I hope it is possible to glue up rudder and leeboard from MDO. I have conducted a few experiments on scrap and to break the glue jont between the two MDO pieces required a chisel and mallet, The epoxy and paper held together and the break involved tearing/splintering of the plywood itself. While this "test was neither scientific nor exhaustive, it gives me some confidence.
John T
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Hallman
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 9:22 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Stitch and Glue
> Would it be okay for laminating several layers thick?
> Don Tyson
I can't think of a good reason why one would want to do so.
In which boat?
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/
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bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
<John.Trussell@...> wrote:
come in thicknesses thinner than 1/2 inch. [At least from my supplier].
I wish I could buy it in 1/4" thickness, so many of the boats I like call for
1/4" plywood.
>Fair enough. Yes the stuff glues. The problem I have found is that it doesn't
> Jim Michalak specifies rudders and leeboards laminated from plywood left over from planking and bulkheads. If building one of these boats out of MDO, the leftover pieces will obviously be MDO. Hence the question.
come in thicknesses thinner than 1/2 inch. [At least from my supplier].
I wish I could buy it in 1/4" thickness, so many of the boats I like call for
1/4" plywood.
Jim Michalak specifies rudders and leeboards laminated from plywood left over from planking and bulkheads. If building one of these boats out of MDO, the leftover pieces will obviously be MDO. Hence the question.
I am currently building the Toon 19 and I hope it is possible to glue up rudder and leeboard from MDO. I have conducted a few experiments on scrap and to break the glue jont between the two MDO pieces required a chisel and mallet, The epoxy and paper held together and the break involved tearing/splintering of the plywood itself. While this "test was neither scientific nor exhaustive, it gives me some confidence.
John T
I am currently building the Toon 19 and I hope it is possible to glue up rudder and leeboard from MDO. I have conducted a few experiments on scrap and to break the glue jont between the two MDO pieces required a chisel and mallet, The epoxy and paper held together and the break involved tearing/splintering of the plywood itself. While this "test was neither scientific nor exhaustive, it gives me some confidence.
John T
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Hallman
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 9:22 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Stitch and Glue
> Would it be okay for laminating several layers thick?
> Don Tyson
I can't think of a good reason why one would want to do so.
In which boat?
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Would it be okay for laminating several layers thick?I can't think of a good reason why one would want to do so.
> Don Tyson
In which boat?
Would it be okay for laminating several layers thick?
Don Tyson
Don Tyson
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "jasmuzyk" <jasmuzyk@n...> wrote:
>
> This info is taken from "Canadian Plywood Association":
>
> MDO Medium Density Overlaid
> Characteristics: An EXTERIOR type plywood with a weather-resistant
> resin overlay bonded to the wood by heat and pressure. This
process
> fuses the molecules of the overlay with the fibres of the wood to
> form a bond as strong as the wood itself. MDO has all the
advantages
> of regular plywood as well as additional proprerties. The overlay,
> which has 28% resin content, resists water, weather, wear and
> degradation. It has texture that paint can grip with remarkable
> tenacity. Paint finishes on MDO are up to three times more durable
> than the same finish applied to ordinary plywood.Ideal for Painted
> Signs: In many instances, overlaid MDO plywood has proven a more
> durable sign material than metal. MDO plywood is resistant to the
> elements with no danger of rust or corrosion.
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "tysond99" <tysond99@y...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > What in the world is MDO?
> >
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Ronald Fossum" <artemis@p...>
> wrote:
> > > Go to your yahoo groups and ask for Michalak.
> > >
> > > Ron Fossum
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Peter Lenihan
> > > To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2004 12:30 AM
> > > Subject: [bolger] Re: Stitch and Glue
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Paquette"
> > > <robertpaquette@o...> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi, Everyone,
> > > > I've purchased the plans for Jim Michalak's Scram Pram.
I've
> > also
> > > purchased Michalak's
> > > > boatbuilding book. With the plans, and in his book, the
> > procedure
> > > for
> > > > construction is not too clear.
> > >
> > > Wow! Now there's a bit of text that no PR man likes to hear!
I
> > > always thought that one or the other was meant to make
clearer
> > what
> > > the other didn't already do :-)
> > > Sorry Robert,I just couldn't resist.....but both Garth and
> Rick
> > have
> > > excellent points/suggestions to follow.Do you plan on
building
> > her
> > > with MDO? If so,I'm yer man for lots of free advice in that
> > regard.
> > > By the way,I think that there is even a Yahoo group for
> Michalak
> > > fans.Perhaps further clarification could be culled from some
> > Scram
> > > Pram builders there? Just a thought.
> > >
> > > Good luck with your building! And post pictures too!
> > >
> > > Sincerely,
> > >
> > > Peter Lenihan
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
> > horses
> > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
> > Fred' posts
> > > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and
snip
> > away
> > > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA,
> > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-
> >subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > ADVERTISEMENT
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------------------------------------
--
> --
> > -----------
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > > a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/
> > >
> > > b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > >bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > > c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
Terms
> > of Service.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Would it be okay for laminating several layers thick?
Don Tyson
Don Tyson
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "jasmuzyk" <jasmuzyk@n...> wrote:
>
> This info is taken from "Canadian Plywood Association":
>
> MDO Medium Density Overlaid
> Characteristics: An EXTERIOR type plywood with a weather-resistant
> resin overlay bonded to the wood by heat and pressure. This
process
> fuses the molecules of the overlay with the fibres of the wood to
> form a bond as strong as the wood itself. MDO has all the
advantages
> of regular plywood as well as additional proprerties. The overlay,
> which has 28% resin content, resists water, weather, wear and
> degradation. It has texture that paint can grip with remarkable
> tenacity. Paint finishes on MDO are up to three times more durable
> than the same finish applied to ordinary plywood.Ideal for Painted
> Signs: In many instances, overlaid MDO plywood has proven a more
> durable sign material than metal. MDO plywood is resistant to the
> elements with no danger of rust or corrosion.
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "tysond99" <tysond99@y...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > What in the world is MDO?
> >
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Ronald Fossum" <artemis@p...>
> wrote:
> > > Go to your yahoo groups and ask for Michalak.
> > >
> > > Ron Fossum
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Peter Lenihan
> > > To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2004 12:30 AM
> > > Subject: [bolger] Re: Stitch and Glue
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Paquette"
> > > <robertpaquette@o...> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi, Everyone,
> > > > I've purchased the plans for Jim Michalak's Scram Pram.
I've
> > also
> > > purchased Michalak's
> > > > boatbuilding book. With the plans, and in his book, the
> > procedure
> > > for
> > > > construction is not too clear.
> > >
> > > Wow! Now there's a bit of text that no PR man likes to hear!
I
> > > always thought that one or the other was meant to make
clearer
> > what
> > > the other didn't already do :-)
> > > Sorry Robert,I just couldn't resist.....but both Garth and
> Rick
> > have
> > > excellent points/suggestions to follow.Do you plan on
building
> > her
> > > with MDO? If so,I'm yer man for lots of free advice in that
> > regard.
> > > By the way,I think that there is even a Yahoo group for
> Michalak
> > > fans.Perhaps further clarification could be culled from some
> > Scram
> > > Pram builders there? Just a thought.
> > >
> > > Good luck with your building! And post pictures too!
> > >
> > > Sincerely,
> > >
> > > Peter Lenihan
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
> > horses
> > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
> > Fred' posts
> > > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and
snip
> > away
> > > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA,
> > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-
> >subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > ADVERTISEMENT
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------------------------------------
--
> --
> > -----------
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > > a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/
> > >
> > > b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > >bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > > c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
Terms
> > of Service.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>What in the world is MDO?A "Resin impregnated paper" overlay, the resin is
> good quality plywood with a paper surface
> Bill
not unlike the more familiar resin used by boat
builders when laying up fiberglass cloth.
MDO is an acronym for "Medium Density Overlay".
In my opinion, the best thing is that MDO comes already
smooth, and cost savings of sandpaper and labor is
huge.
I suspect MDO is probably available in the UK, as some
of what we use in the USA is imported from Finland.
Ask for "WISA-Form MDO"
http://www.google.com/search?q=%22WISA%2DForm+MDO%22
Not only is MDO used by signmakers, it is also used
by construction companies for concrete formwork when
they want hard, reusable, smooth panels.
This info is taken from "Canadian Plywood Association":
MDO Medium Density Overlaid
Characteristics: An EXTERIOR type plywood with a weather-resistant
resin overlay bonded to the wood by heat and pressure. This process
fuses the molecules of the overlay with the fibres of the wood to
form a bond as strong as the wood itself. MDO has all the advantages
of regular plywood as well as additional proprerties. The overlay,
which has 28% resin content, resists water, weather, wear and
degradation. It has texture that paint can grip with remarkable
tenacity. Paint finishes on MDO are up to three times more durable
than the same finish applied to ordinary plywood.Ideal for Painted
Signs: In many instances, overlaid MDO plywood has proven a more
durable sign material than metal. MDO plywood is resistant to the
elements with no danger of rust or corrosion.
MDO Medium Density Overlaid
Characteristics: An EXTERIOR type plywood with a weather-resistant
resin overlay bonded to the wood by heat and pressure. This process
fuses the molecules of the overlay with the fibres of the wood to
form a bond as strong as the wood itself. MDO has all the advantages
of regular plywood as well as additional proprerties. The overlay,
which has 28% resin content, resists water, weather, wear and
degradation. It has texture that paint can grip with remarkable
tenacity. Paint finishes on MDO are up to three times more durable
than the same finish applied to ordinary plywood.Ideal for Painted
Signs: In many instances, overlaid MDO plywood has proven a more
durable sign material than metal. MDO plywood is resistant to the
elements with no danger of rust or corrosion.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "tysond99" <tysond99@y...> wrote:
>
>
> What in the world is MDO?
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Ronald Fossum" <artemis@p...>
wrote:
> > Go to your yahoo groups and ask for Michalak.
> >
> > Ron Fossum
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Peter Lenihan
> > To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2004 12:30 AM
> > Subject: [bolger] Re: Stitch and Glue
> >
> >
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Paquette"
> > <robertpaquette@o...> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi, Everyone,
> > > I've purchased the plans for Jim Michalak's Scram Pram. I've
> also
> > purchased Michalak's
> > > boatbuilding book. With the plans, and in his book, the
> procedure
> > for
> > > construction is not too clear.
> >
> > Wow! Now there's a bit of text that no PR man likes to hear! I
> > always thought that one or the other was meant to make clearer
> what
> > the other didn't already do :-)
> > Sorry Robert,I just couldn't resist.....but both Garth and
Rick
> have
> > excellent points/suggestions to follow.Do you plan on building
> her
> > with MDO? If so,I'm yer man for lots of free advice in that
> regard.
> > By the way,I think that there is even a Yahoo group for
Michalak
> > fans.Perhaps further clarification could be culled from some
> Scram
> > Pram builders there? Just a thought.
> >
> > Good luck with your building! And post pictures too!
> >
> > Sincerely,
> >
> > Peter Lenihan
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
> horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
> Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip
> away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-
>subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > ADVERTISEMENT
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
--
> -----------
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/
> >
> > b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms
> of Service.
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>From: tysond99As a fellow non-American I sympathise! I understand that in the US of A road signs are frequently made of good quality plywood with a paper surface, while in the UK we always use alumin(i)um.
>What in the world is MDO?
Anyway, that paper-faced ply is known as MDO. It's not just stingy amateur builders who use it, but several professionals put their trust in it too. One advantage of using this stuff is that the paper makes a great base for painting, without the tiresome raised grain and so on you get from ordinary marine ply.
Anyway - it ain't available in the UK so I guess I'll need to stick with Bruynzeel ;-)
Cheers,
Bill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
What in the world is MDO?
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Ronald Fossum" <artemis@p...> wrote:
> Go to your yahoo groups and ask for Michalak.
>
> Ron Fossum
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Peter Lenihan
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2004 12:30 AM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Stitch and Glue
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Paquette"
> <robertpaquette@o...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi, Everyone,
> > I've purchased the plans for Jim Michalak's Scram Pram. I've
also
> purchased Michalak's
> > boatbuilding book. With the plans, and in his book, the
procedure
> for
> > construction is not too clear.
>
> Wow! Now there's a bit of text that no PR man likes to hear! I
> always thought that one or the other was meant to make clearer
what
> the other didn't already do :-)
> Sorry Robert,I just couldn't resist.....but both Garth and Rick
have
> excellent points/suggestions to follow.Do you plan on building
her
> with MDO? If so,I'm yer man for lots of free advice in that
regard.
> By the way,I think that there is even a Yahoo group for Michalak
> fans.Perhaps further clarification could be culled from some
Scram
> Pram builders there? Just a thought.
>
> Good luck with your building! And post pictures too!
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Peter Lenihan
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip
away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-
subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
>
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/
>
> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms
of Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Dillahunty <bdillahu@p...>
wrote:
Windermere does indeed have one of Bolgers signature boxkeels
AND "fillet pieces"(Bolgers term) or fairing bits :-),up forward, to
soften the ride.
Your quest and desire to build to your own design is perfectly
reasonable,just so long as you are fully prepared to take
respondsiblity for the whole thing. Of course,everyone hopes it
comes out working better then expected :-)
Having a good sense of humour should be a pre-requisite for all
amateur builders...God knows we goof up in some rather spectacular
ways at times.....so don't hesitate to post a sketch or two of your
concept.Afterall,there are some rather bright folks on this group
who may be able to offer up some excellent bits of help in tweeking
you design for the better.
Best of luck with your efforts!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
wrote:
> does the Windermere have the stepped keel or whatever he callsBruce,
> the lower "foot" design that several of the Bolger boats have?
Windermere does indeed have one of Bolgers signature boxkeels
AND "fillet pieces"(Bolgers term) or fairing bits :-),up forward, to
soften the ride.
Your quest and desire to build to your own design is perfectly
reasonable,just so long as you are fully prepared to take
respondsiblity for the whole thing. Of course,everyone hopes it
comes out working better then expected :-)
Having a good sense of humour should be a pre-requisite for all
amateur builders...God knows we goof up in some rather spectacular
ways at times.....so don't hesitate to post a sketch or two of your
concept.Afterall,there are some rather bright folks on this group
who may be able to offer up some excellent bits of help in tweeking
you design for the better.
Best of luck with your efforts!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
The Windermere is a nice looking design, and very similar... I hadn't
run across that one before... funny how it comes out that we're looking
a similar things. Looking at the drawings I could find, I couldn't
tell, does the Windermere have the stepped keel or whatever he calls
the lower "foot" design that several of the Bolger boats have?
Why a personal design? I don't know... ego? (grin)... I guess its just
one of those "I had an idea and I like it and I want to do it"...
building this is as much for the building pleasure as the boating
pleasure for me, so I figure if I want to do it, then so be it... maybe
it won't sink :-)
I'm trying to finish my thoughts and get at least some sketches
together of my idea... maybe I'll get that done before long so
everybody can start laughing.
Bruce
run across that one before... funny how it comes out that we're looking
a similar things. Looking at the drawings I could find, I couldn't
tell, does the Windermere have the stepped keel or whatever he calls
the lower "foot" design that several of the Bolger boats have?
Why a personal design? I don't know... ego? (grin)... I guess its just
one of those "I had an idea and I like it and I want to do it"...
building this is as much for the building pleasure as the boating
pleasure for me, so I figure if I want to do it, then so be it... maybe
it won't sink :-)
I'm trying to finish my thoughts and get at least some sketches
together of my idea... maybe I'll get that done before long so
everybody can start laughing.
Bruce
On Dec 31, 2004, at 00:39, Peter Lenihan wrote:
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Dillahunty <bdillahu@p...>
> wrote:
>> Right now, I'm thinking of a "personal" design, but it will
> probably be
>> similar to:
>>
>>http://markvdesigns.tripod.com/boatbuilding/id12.html
>>
>> Bruce
>
>
> Nice choice! But why a"personal" design when there are some lovely
> proven designs already out there? That is,I presume you to mean you
> will design your own boat when you say"personal".
> Along similar lines but denser in design is Bolgers' WINDERMERE
> design,a sample of which I am presently building all with MDO......
>
> I'd be curious to see a sketch of what you are contemplating, if
> only to marvel at someones else creative expression.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Peter Lenihan
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Dillahunty <bdillahu@p...>
wrote:
proven designs already out there? That is,I presume you to mean you
will design your own boat when you say"personal".
Along similar lines but denser in design is Bolgers' WINDERMERE
design,a sample of which I am presently building all with MDO......
I'd be curious to see a sketch of what you are contemplating, if
only to marvel at someones else creative expression.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
wrote:
> Right now, I'm thinking of a "personal" design, but it willprobably be
> similar to:Nice choice! But why a"personal" design when there are some lovely
>
>http://markvdesigns.tripod.com/boatbuilding/id12.html
>
> Bruce
proven designs already out there? That is,I presume you to mean you
will design your own boat when you say"personal".
Along similar lines but denser in design is Bolgers' WINDERMERE
design,a sample of which I am presently building all with MDO......
I'd be curious to see a sketch of what you are contemplating, if
only to marvel at someones else creative expression.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
>Thanks...
> Bruce,
>
> For the best stuff on the market,just go here:
>
>http://www.simpson-plywood.com/sign_making/index.php
>
> So,whatchya planin' on buildin' ?Well, isn't that the question :-)
>
Right now, I'm thinking of a "personal" design, but it will probably be
similar to:
http://markvdesigns.tripod.com/boatbuilding/id12.html
Bruce
>
> Sincerely,
> Peter Lenihan
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce C. Dillahunty" <bdillahu@p...>
wrote:
For the best stuff on the market,just go here:
http://www.simpson-plywood.com/sign_making/index.php
In particular,look at their Crezon Two step and Signal
panels.Virtually void free and takes a finish even a mother would be
proud of :-)
So,whatchya planin' on buildin' ?
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
wrote:
> Well, I'm not planning on that boat, but I have been seriouslyBruce,
> considering MDO and would love some free advice :-)
For the best stuff on the market,just go here:
http://www.simpson-plywood.com/sign_making/index.php
In particular,look at their Crezon Two step and Signal
panels.Virtually void free and takes a finish even a mother would be
proud of :-)
So,whatchya planin' on buildin' ?
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
Go to your yahoo groups and ask for Michalak.
Ron Fossum
Ron Fossum
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Lenihan
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2004 12:30 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Stitch and Glue
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Paquette"
<robertpaquette@o...> wrote:
>
> Hi, Everyone,
> I've purchased the plans for Jim Michalak's Scram Pram. I've also
purchased Michalak's
> boatbuilding book. With the plans, and in his book, the procedure
for
> construction is not too clear.
Wow! Now there's a bit of text that no PR man likes to hear! I
always thought that one or the other was meant to make clearer what
the other didn't already do :-)
Sorry Robert,I just couldn't resist.....but both Garth and Rick have
excellent points/suggestions to follow.Do you plan on building her
with MDO? If so,I'm yer man for lots of free advice in that regard.
By the way,I think that there is even a Yahoo group for Michalak
fans.Perhaps further clarification could be culled from some Scram
Pram builders there? Just a thought.
Good luck with your building! And post pictures too!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Robert,
You may be getting more advice than you want at this point. But, if
you want more, you can check the bateau.com web site. They sell many
stitch and glue designs and give lots of free advice on the building
process. Also, Payson's second book describes his approach to Tack
and Tape with detailed step by step instructions for a Bolger
designed Gypsy. Different boat, but similar building method.
Then, if you really want to spend some time reading before you build,
check Devlin's book on boat building. It is probably the most
comprehensive description of the process.
Have fun.
Rob
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Paquette"
<robertpaquette@o...> wrote:
You may be getting more advice than you want at this point. But, if
you want more, you can check the bateau.com web site. They sell many
stitch and glue designs and give lots of free advice on the building
process. Also, Payson's second book describes his approach to Tack
and Tape with detailed step by step instructions for a Bolger
designed Gypsy. Different boat, but similar building method.
Then, if you really want to spend some time reading before you build,
check Devlin's book on boat building. It is probably the most
comprehensive description of the process.
Have fun.
Rob
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Paquette"
<robertpaquette@o...> wrote:
>purchased Michalak's
> Hi, Everyone,
> I've purchased the plans for Jim Michalak's Scram Pram. I've also
> boatbuilding book. With the plans, and in his book, the procedurefor
> construction is not too clear. It seems to be the following:assume this is
>
> 1) the bulkheads and transoms are assembled
> 2) the bottom panel, bilge panels, and side panels are cut out
> 3) the sides are attached to the bulkheads and transoms, and I
> done upside downwhatever stitching
> 4) the bottom panel is attached
> 5) the bilge panels are fitted, trimmed, and attached using
> method the builder prefers (ie. copper, galvanised, or SS wire,cable ties, or
> monomfilament lineAs well,
> 6) the hull is turned right side up
> 7) the two interior chines are filetted and bonded with fibreglass.
> the bulkheads and transoms are also bonded to the hull withfibreglass
> 8) the hull is turned upside down, and the exterior chines arefibreglassed.
> The skeg is also installed and fibreglassed in. The whole bottom ofthe hull is
> fibreglassed and painted.completed while in
> 9) The hull is again turned right side up, and the boat is
> this final position
>
> have I got all this correctly????
>
> Robert, boatless in Niagara Falls
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Paquette"
<robertpaquette@o...> wrote:
always thought that one or the other was meant to make clearer what
the other didn't already do :-)
Sorry Robert,I just couldn't resist.....but both Garth and Rick have
excellent points/suggestions to follow.Do you plan on building her
with MDO? If so,I'm yer man for lots of free advice in that regard.
By the way,I think that there is even a Yahoo group for Michalak
fans.Perhaps further clarification could be culled from some Scram
Pram builders there? Just a thought.
Good luck with your building! And post pictures too!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
<robertpaquette@o...> wrote:
>purchased Michalak's
> Hi, Everyone,
> I've purchased the plans for Jim Michalak's Scram Pram. I've also
> boatbuilding book. With the plans, and in his book, the procedurefor
> construction is not too clear.Wow! Now there's a bit of text that no PR man likes to hear! I
always thought that one or the other was meant to make clearer what
the other didn't already do :-)
Sorry Robert,I just couldn't resist.....but both Garth and Rick have
excellent points/suggestions to follow.Do you plan on building her
with MDO? If so,I'm yer man for lots of free advice in that regard.
By the way,I think that there is even a Yahoo group for Michalak
fans.Perhaps further clarification could be culled from some Scram
Pram builders there? Just a thought.
Good luck with your building! And post pictures too!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
Peter Lenihan wrote:
considering MDO and would love some free advice :-)
Bruce
> Do you plan on building herWell, I'm not planning on that boat, but I have been seriously
> with MDO? If so,I'm yer man for lots of free advice in that regard.
considering MDO and would love some free advice :-)
Bruce
If I may, I'd like to add to this technique. I would;
Epoxy coat the edges of the plywood bulkheads first. Three light coats brushed on in the same day followed by a light sanding next day will really give a good seal to the edgegrain. (The hull panels get edge coated during assembly).
Use the 2" wide self stick postal package tape instead of duct tape. Much easier to remove if epoxy dribbles onto it, plus no duct tape glue residue.
A strip of this same package tape applied 2" away from each plywood seam before glass taping, left on until the seams are actually glasstaped and epoxied will give you a clean epoxy line. (I always pull this tape while the glass tape is "green"). The expense of the tape is far outweighed by the ease of clean-up and the neatness of the taping results...
If the boat is small, elevate it so you can get under it to clean up epoxy drips when "spot welding". If a large hull, consider leaving the transom un-glued. Screw it in place in a way it will hold the hull shape, but keep it removable to allow access under the hull when upside down, and more importantly, when upright, unscrew the transom and built a ramp up to the hull bottom.... makes those 23,456 trips into and out of the hull during interior construction much, much easier....
One more, before filpping the hull to upright, paint the thing. I even apply bottom paint and bootstripe before flipping....
Most importantly, have fun.
Rick Bedard
GarthAB <garth@...> wrote:
Hi Robert --
On a bigger boat that's hard to flip, you can skip the intermediate
flips. Not sure if this is necessary with Scram Pram, but here's an
alternate sequence:
-- Assemble your bulkheads.
-- Cut out and attach the sides, then bottom, then bilge panels --
with the boat upside down.
-- Tie your seams together and "spot weld" them with thickened epoxy
every six inches or so, between your ties. (This requires crawling
under your hull and sticking some duct tape or packing tape on the
undersides of the joints to keep the epoxy from running out.) Credit
must be given to Chuck Leinweber for spreading the gospel of this
technique.
-- Once the epoxy has hardened, remove your ties, and round/fair all
those joints with a block plane and/or a sander.
-- Tape the seams and glass the whole bottom (then add skeg)
-- Flip the boat.
-- Tape all interior seams and joints.
-- Finish boat, etc.
The strength of the hull when it's only glassed outside is sufficient
to hold it together while flipping. If you can crawl under the upside
down hull before the flip and tape a few joints just for extra
strength, that may bring you peace of mind as you roll the thing over.
I flipped Cormorant (31' x 7.5') with only external taping and
glassing, plus the glue used when I glued-and-screwed the bulkheads to
the sides and bottom. The hull was so rigid that once flipped upright
it didn't deflect a bit, even when perched on supports at only the
transom and the forefoot. This gives me great confidence in the
ultimate strength of these boats.
My $0.02, for what it's worth.
All best,
Garth
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Paquette" <robertpaquette@o...>
wrote:
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Epoxy coat the edges of the plywood bulkheads first. Three light coats brushed on in the same day followed by a light sanding next day will really give a good seal to the edgegrain. (The hull panels get edge coated during assembly).
Use the 2" wide self stick postal package tape instead of duct tape. Much easier to remove if epoxy dribbles onto it, plus no duct tape glue residue.
A strip of this same package tape applied 2" away from each plywood seam before glass taping, left on until the seams are actually glasstaped and epoxied will give you a clean epoxy line. (I always pull this tape while the glass tape is "green"). The expense of the tape is far outweighed by the ease of clean-up and the neatness of the taping results...
If the boat is small, elevate it so you can get under it to clean up epoxy drips when "spot welding". If a large hull, consider leaving the transom un-glued. Screw it in place in a way it will hold the hull shape, but keep it removable to allow access under the hull when upside down, and more importantly, when upright, unscrew the transom and built a ramp up to the hull bottom.... makes those 23,456 trips into and out of the hull during interior construction much, much easier....
One more, before filpping the hull to upright, paint the thing. I even apply bottom paint and bootstripe before flipping....
Most importantly, have fun.
Rick Bedard
GarthAB <garth@...> wrote:
Hi Robert --
On a bigger boat that's hard to flip, you can skip the intermediate
flips. Not sure if this is necessary with Scram Pram, but here's an
alternate sequence:
-- Assemble your bulkheads.
-- Cut out and attach the sides, then bottom, then bilge panels --
with the boat upside down.
-- Tie your seams together and "spot weld" them with thickened epoxy
every six inches or so, between your ties. (This requires crawling
under your hull and sticking some duct tape or packing tape on the
undersides of the joints to keep the epoxy from running out.) Credit
must be given to Chuck Leinweber for spreading the gospel of this
technique.
-- Once the epoxy has hardened, remove your ties, and round/fair all
those joints with a block plane and/or a sander.
-- Tape the seams and glass the whole bottom (then add skeg)
-- Flip the boat.
-- Tape all interior seams and joints.
-- Finish boat, etc.
The strength of the hull when it's only glassed outside is sufficient
to hold it together while flipping. If you can crawl under the upside
down hull before the flip and tape a few joints just for extra
strength, that may bring you peace of mind as you roll the thing over.
I flipped Cormorant (31' x 7.5') with only external taping and
glassing, plus the glue used when I glued-and-screwed the bulkheads to
the sides and bottom. The hull was so rigid that once flipped upright
it didn't deflect a bit, even when perched on supports at only the
transom and the forefoot. This gives me great confidence in the
ultimate strength of these boats.
My $0.02, for what it's worth.
All best,
Garth
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Paquette" <robertpaquette@o...>
wrote:
>purchased Michalak's
> Hi, Everyone,
> I've purchased the plans for Jim Michalak's Scram Pram. I've also
> boatbuilding book. With the plans, and in his book, the procedure forassume this is
> construction is not too clear. It seems to be the following:
>
> 1) the bulkheads and transoms are assembled
> 2) the bottom panel, bilge panels, and side panels are cut out
> 3) the sides are attached to the bulkheads and transoms, and I
> done upside downstitching
> 4) the bottom panel is attached
> 5) the bilge panels are fitted, trimmed, and attached using whatever
> method the builder prefers (ie. copper, galvanised, or SS wire,cable ties, or
> monomfilament lineAs well,
> 6) the hull is turned right side up
> 7) the two interior chines are filetted and bonded with fibreglass.
> the bulkheads and transoms are also bonded to the hull with fibreglassfibreglassed.
> 8) the hull is turned upside down, and the exterior chines are
> The skeg is also installed and fibreglassed in. The whole bottom ofthe hull is
> fibreglassed and painted.while in
> 9) The hull is again turned right side up, and the boat is completed
> this final positionBolger rules!!!
>
> have I got all this correctly????
>
> Robert, boatless in Niagara Falls
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Robert --
On a bigger boat that's hard to flip, you can skip the intermediate
flips. Not sure if this is necessary with Scram Pram, but here's an
alternate sequence:
-- Assemble your bulkheads.
-- Cut out and attach the sides, then bottom, then bilge panels --
with the boat upside down.
-- Tie your seams together and "spot weld" them with thickened epoxy
every six inches or so, between your ties. (This requires crawling
under your hull and sticking some duct tape or packing tape on the
undersides of the joints to keep the epoxy from running out.) Credit
must be given to Chuck Leinweber for spreading the gospel of this
technique.
-- Once the epoxy has hardened, remove your ties, and round/fair all
those joints with a block plane and/or a sander.
-- Tape the seams and glass the whole bottom (then add skeg)
-- Flip the boat.
-- Tape all interior seams and joints.
-- Finish boat, etc.
The strength of the hull when it's only glassed outside is sufficient
to hold it together while flipping. If you can crawl under the upside
down hull before the flip and tape a few joints just for extra
strength, that may bring you peace of mind as you roll the thing over.
I flipped Cormorant (31' x 7.5') with only external taping and
glassing, plus the glue used when I glued-and-screwed the bulkheads to
the sides and bottom. The hull was so rigid that once flipped upright
it didn't deflect a bit, even when perched on supports at only the
transom and the forefoot. This gives me great confidence in the
ultimate strength of these boats.
My $0.02, for what it's worth.
All best,
Garth
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Paquette" <robertpaquette@o...>
wrote:
On a bigger boat that's hard to flip, you can skip the intermediate
flips. Not sure if this is necessary with Scram Pram, but here's an
alternate sequence:
-- Assemble your bulkheads.
-- Cut out and attach the sides, then bottom, then bilge panels --
with the boat upside down.
-- Tie your seams together and "spot weld" them with thickened epoxy
every six inches or so, between your ties. (This requires crawling
under your hull and sticking some duct tape or packing tape on the
undersides of the joints to keep the epoxy from running out.) Credit
must be given to Chuck Leinweber for spreading the gospel of this
technique.
-- Once the epoxy has hardened, remove your ties, and round/fair all
those joints with a block plane and/or a sander.
-- Tape the seams and glass the whole bottom (then add skeg)
-- Flip the boat.
-- Tape all interior seams and joints.
-- Finish boat, etc.
The strength of the hull when it's only glassed outside is sufficient
to hold it together while flipping. If you can crawl under the upside
down hull before the flip and tape a few joints just for extra
strength, that may bring you peace of mind as you roll the thing over.
I flipped Cormorant (31' x 7.5') with only external taping and
glassing, plus the glue used when I glued-and-screwed the bulkheads to
the sides and bottom. The hull was so rigid that once flipped upright
it didn't deflect a bit, even when perched on supports at only the
transom and the forefoot. This gives me great confidence in the
ultimate strength of these boats.
My $0.02, for what it's worth.
All best,
Garth
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Paquette" <robertpaquette@o...>
wrote:
>purchased Michalak's
> Hi, Everyone,
> I've purchased the plans for Jim Michalak's Scram Pram. I've also
> boatbuilding book. With the plans, and in his book, the procedure forassume this is
> construction is not too clear. It seems to be the following:
>
> 1) the bulkheads and transoms are assembled
> 2) the bottom panel, bilge panels, and side panels are cut out
> 3) the sides are attached to the bulkheads and transoms, and I
> done upside downstitching
> 4) the bottom panel is attached
> 5) the bilge panels are fitted, trimmed, and attached using whatever
> method the builder prefers (ie. copper, galvanised, or SS wire,cable ties, or
> monomfilament lineAs well,
> 6) the hull is turned right side up
> 7) the two interior chines are filetted and bonded with fibreglass.
> the bulkheads and transoms are also bonded to the hull with fibreglassfibreglassed.
> 8) the hull is turned upside down, and the exterior chines are
> The skeg is also installed and fibreglassed in. The whole bottom ofthe hull is
> fibreglassed and painted.while in
> 9) The hull is again turned right side up, and the boat is completed
> this final position
>
> have I got all this correctly????
>
> Robert, boatless in Niagara Falls
Hi, Everyone,
I've purchased the plans for Jim Michalak's Scram Pram. I've also purchased Michalak's
boatbuilding book. With the plans, and in his book, the procedure for
construction is not too clear. It seems to be the following:
1) the bulkheads and transoms are assembled
2) the bottom panel, bilge panels, and side panels are cut out
3) the sides are attached to the bulkheads and transoms, and I assume this is
done upside down
4) the bottom panel is attached
5) the bilge panels are fitted, trimmed, and attached using whatever stitching
method the builder prefers (ie. copper, galvanised, or SS wire, cable ties, or
monomfilament line
6) the hull is turned right side up
7) the two interior chines are filetted and bonded with fibreglass. As well,
the bulkheads and transoms are also bonded to the hull with fibreglass
8) the hull is turned upside down, and the exterior chines are fibreglassed.
The skeg is also installed and fibreglassed in. The whole bottom of the hull is
fibreglassed and painted.
9) The hull is again turned right side up, and the boat is completed while in
this final position
have I got all this correctly????
Robert, boatless in Niagara Falls
I've purchased the plans for Jim Michalak's Scram Pram. I've also purchased Michalak's
boatbuilding book. With the plans, and in his book, the procedure for
construction is not too clear. It seems to be the following:
1) the bulkheads and transoms are assembled
2) the bottom panel, bilge panels, and side panels are cut out
3) the sides are attached to the bulkheads and transoms, and I assume this is
done upside down
4) the bottom panel is attached
5) the bilge panels are fitted, trimmed, and attached using whatever stitching
method the builder prefers (ie. copper, galvanised, or SS wire, cable ties, or
monomfilament line
6) the hull is turned right side up
7) the two interior chines are filetted and bonded with fibreglass. As well,
the bulkheads and transoms are also bonded to the hull with fibreglass
8) the hull is turned upside down, and the exterior chines are fibreglassed.
The skeg is also installed and fibreglassed in. The whole bottom of the hull is
fibreglassed and painted.
9) The hull is again turned right side up, and the boat is completed while in
this final position
have I got all this correctly????
Robert, boatless in Niagara Falls