Small Boat Journal
Heads up,
these people just listed back issues of Small Boat Journal for sale, $2/ issue.
Columbia Trading Co.
One Barnstable Road , Hyannis, MA, U.S.A., 02601.
<mailto:info@...>
Ph: 508-778-2929 Fax: 508-778-2922
these people just listed back issues of Small Boat Journal for sale, $2/ issue.
Columbia Trading Co.
One Barnstable Road , Hyannis, MA, U.S.A., 02601.
<mailto:info@...>
Ph: 508-778-2929 Fax: 508-778-2922
--- pauldayau <wattleweedooseeds@...> wrote:
copy is even better but..... Working on my Single
Handed Schooner copies turned up what I suspected,
Xerox copies are not guaranteed to be true to scale.
There was a difference that would have effected part
sizes. Or, why were all the dimensions such odd ball
numbers?!? I think the original plans need to be kept
handy for precise measurements....
Gene T.
>Copying plans is a great idea, and lamination of a
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, W & C White
> <omegacubed@d...> wrote:
> > Pauldayau:
> >
> > I . The plans, tacked to a wall, were
> > wetted, and disintegrated. I bought another set
> from Dynamite.
> Lesson 1 photocopy your plans and work from a set
> you can doodle and
> spill coffee on
copy is even better but..... Working on my Single
Handed Schooner copies turned up what I suspected,
Xerox copies are not guaranteed to be true to scale.
There was a difference that would have effected part
sizes. Or, why were all the dimensions such odd ball
numbers?!? I think the original plans need to be kept
handy for precise measurements....
Gene T.
> > instead of the screw-every-three-inches called forIt is my understanding that the nails or screws also
> by PB, since the
> > consensus is that fasteners aren't needed once the
> epoxy has dried.
serve to hold the plywood layers together, not just
the glue joint. This could stop failure by
delamination. glue alone only attaches the plywood by
the one layer that has the glue on it. The fiberglass
tape around the joint can serve this same purpose.....
Experimentation is good, security is better! And, if
we are talking about the chine joints, the weight is
where it needs to be!
Gene T.
>I'm also considering a pair of square-head sail like those onWhy don't you actually use topsails? See my Cheap Pages (search on Conor
>windsurfers and Cup boats, for better performance AND the look of a
>topsail schooner, the prettiest sail rig in my opinion.
>
>Reactions?
O'Brien --not Conan O'Brien) for his setup for small boat topsails.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, W & C White <omegacubed@d...> wrote:
spill coffee on
hull at a timme glued and screwed itthen screwed on some pine planks
to keep it in plumb until the bottoms went on. when i finally joined
the hulls I was out by 1.5mm over the 31'. .
and experimented with various
and drew the bevels onto the bulkheads. I had a freestanding frame of
heavy timber that I clamped the frames to and a few strokes of a hand
plane did the job.
In this design the surface area of the glued joinnts is so small
that the screws still hold it all together. When a joint cracks
falling of a shitty power boat wake you will stop a crack at a screw.
. I tried the no screw idea on a landyacht and had to go back and
rebuild the hull. Our corregated dirt roads are enough to break pure
epxoy joins.
Last year my june bug fell off the trailer at 90kmph without
damage . I blame the screws. I
speed.. dont waste money on fancy sails when you could spend it a
good traileror good wine.. Our only race in the schooner was
cancelled due to no wind. In reality this meant that the other boats
were unable to get any speed in the winds available . we never
stopped in the race. and cut our last lap short because the other
boats had motored or been towed home. WE SAILED.
Our 5 hp O/B will push the boat at the sme speed as a 9.9. and i
suspect your fancy sails will too. fancy sails will simply give a
sail perfomance beyond the hulls ability. The idea of a flat top sail
on such a small mast is to let it fall away to lessen the impact of
gusts. ie immitating a Gaff rig. They also prefer a flexible mast
rather then the rigid beasties on a schooner.if you stick to the
plans you wiil stay in front.
cheers paul Day. Australian tight arse boat builder of the month
> Pauldayau:Lesson 1 photocopy your plans and work from a set you can doodle and
>
> I . The plans, tacked to a wall, were
> wetted, and disintegrated. I bought another set from Dynamite.
spill coffee on
>The folding schooner doesnt need a strong back ay all . I built 1
> ) I have built a strongback,
hull at a timme glued and screwed itthen screwed on some pine planks
to keep it in plumb until the bottoms went on. when i finally joined
the hulls I was out by 1.5mm over the 31'. .
and experimented with various
> methods of shaving the bevels on the bulkheads and frames.I extended the lines on the plans in pencil, set my adjustable bevel
and drew the bevels onto the bulkheads. I had a freestanding frame of
heavy timber that I clamped the frames to and a few strokes of a hand
plane did the job.
>Bollocks to that ! screw ,screw, and screw.
> Have been intrigued with various concepts on this site as to best
> method of fastening and gluing. Plan to experiment with the
> staples-and-strapping-tape method someone posted a few months ago,
> instead of the screw-every-three-inches called for by PB, since the
> consensus is that fasteners aren't needed once the epoxy has dried.
In this design the surface area of the glued joinnts is so small
that the screws still hold it all together. When a joint cracks
falling of a shitty power boat wake you will stop a crack at a screw.
. I tried the no screw idea on a landyacht and had to go back and
rebuild the hull. Our corregated dirt roads are enough to break pure
epxoy joins.
Last year my june bug fell off the trailer at 90kmph without
damage . I blame the screws. I
> am a nut for performance, and experience tells me that a light boatthe sails as drawn will get top speed out of the hull at all wind
> goes faster than a heavy one, and fastest if it's good and stiff.
>
> I'm also considering a pair of square-head sail like those on
> windsurfers and Cup boats, for better performance AND the look of a
> topsail schooner, the prettiest sail rig in my opinion.
speed.. dont waste money on fancy sails when you could spend it a
good traileror good wine.. Our only race in the schooner was
cancelled due to no wind. In reality this meant that the other boats
were unable to get any speed in the winds available . we never
stopped in the race. and cut our last lap short because the other
boats had motored or been towed home. WE SAILED.
Our 5 hp O/B will push the boat at the sme speed as a 9.9. and i
suspect your fancy sails will too. fancy sails will simply give a
sail perfomance beyond the hulls ability. The idea of a flat top sail
on such a small mast is to let it fall away to lessen the impact of
gusts. ie immitating a Gaff rig. They also prefer a flexible mast
rather then the rigid beasties on a schooner.if you stick to the
plans you wiil stay in front.
cheers paul Day. Australian tight arse boat builder of the month
>
>
>
>
Pauldayau:
I too miss folding schooner news. I bought the plans about 10 years
ago, but didn't begin cutting wood until the middle of this summer.
Among other things, I had to move to (inland) Florida, then put up a
boatshop. Got all the plywood pieces cut (marine okoume ply) and
stacked against one of the shop doors. Then came Charley the hurricane,
who wrought havoc hereabouts, including blowing open three of the four
doors of the shop just before he moved on north. The unblown one was
the one with the schooner pieces leaning against it; they all survived,
mirabile dictu, not even wetted. The plans, tacked to a wall, were
wetted, and disintegrated. I bought another set from Dynamite.
My only previous boatbuilding experience was in the '70s, when I joined
a group of guys building a fleet of Windmills in Connecticut. Since as
a kid I sliced my fingers several times trying to build balsa models, I
was happy to find I was a late bloomer in woodworking skills. However,
I had a whole group of experienced teacher then, and I'm on my own now,
so I am taking it VERY slow. Since the hurricanes (three of them passed
through) I have built a strongback, and experimented with various
methods of shaving the bevels on the bulkheads and frames.
Have been intrigued with various concepts on this site as to best
method of fastening and gluing. Plan to experiment with the
staples-and-strapping-tape method someone posted a few months ago,
instead of the screw-every-three-inches called for by PB, since the
consensus is that fasteners aren't needed once the epoxy has dried. I
am a nut for performance, and experience tells me that a light boat
goes faster than a heavy one, and fastest if it's good and stiff.
I'm also considering a pair of square-head sail like those on
windsurfers and Cup boats, for better performance AND the look of a
topsail schooner, the prettiest sail rig in my opinion.
Reactions?
-- Will
I too miss folding schooner news. I bought the plans about 10 years
ago, but didn't begin cutting wood until the middle of this summer.
Among other things, I had to move to (inland) Florida, then put up a
boatshop. Got all the plywood pieces cut (marine okoume ply) and
stacked against one of the shop doors. Then came Charley the hurricane,
who wrought havoc hereabouts, including blowing open three of the four
doors of the shop just before he moved on north. The unblown one was
the one with the schooner pieces leaning against it; they all survived,
mirabile dictu, not even wetted. The plans, tacked to a wall, were
wetted, and disintegrated. I bought another set from Dynamite.
My only previous boatbuilding experience was in the '70s, when I joined
a group of guys building a fleet of Windmills in Connecticut. Since as
a kid I sliced my fingers several times trying to build balsa models, I
was happy to find I was a late bloomer in woodworking skills. However,
I had a whole group of experienced teacher then, and I'm on my own now,
so I am taking it VERY slow. Since the hurricanes (three of them passed
through) I have built a strongback, and experimented with various
methods of shaving the bevels on the bulkheads and frames.
Have been intrigued with various concepts on this site as to best
method of fastening and gluing. Plan to experiment with the
staples-and-strapping-tape method someone posted a few months ago,
instead of the screw-every-three-inches called for by PB, since the
consensus is that fasteners aren't needed once the epoxy has dried. I
am a nut for performance, and experience tells me that a light boat
goes faster than a heavy one, and fastest if it's good and stiff.
I'm also considering a pair of square-head sail like those on
windsurfers and Cup boats, for better performance AND the look of a
topsail schooner, the prettiest sail rig in my opinion.
Reactions?
-- Will