Re: Gloucester Gull
> the world's largestSuch a thing could not possibly the best use of the necessary
> sportfishing boat (about 125').
resources, for fishing or anything else.
Extrapolating from the Gull through the I60, we should be able to
take the title with a 130' dory.
PHV
I'm finding all this talk about dories very distracting! I've wanted to
build one for years, but my wife keeps talking me out of it, using all the
usual arguments: 1) you have too many boats already (impossible!). 2) you
don't need a boat like that (well, I don't NEED any boat....). 3) you don't
have room for it (I'll make some room....). 4) you should finish the
canoe/kayak refurb/Micro first (well maybe she has a point there...) 5) we
can't afford it (but Luan ply is soooo cheap, and I got a mess of goo and
glass leftover from the canoe, and.....). There's a beach full of Gulls
nearby, I've rowed a few and know how fun they are, and the fact that David
and Sue threw a couple together over a long weekend doesn't help put me off
the idea either, nor do all David's reports of his escapades in Toby - talk
about instant gratification! Besides, rowing might just be ideal therapy for
the nasty back problems that have slowed progress on micro.... hmmmmm.....
anybody know the beam of a gull offhand? Wondering if it'd fit out my
bulkhead door, the garage is full of Micro......
Paul L, having a bit of trouble trying to concentrate and get some work done
here on Cape Cod....
build one for years, but my wife keeps talking me out of it, using all the
usual arguments: 1) you have too many boats already (impossible!). 2) you
don't need a boat like that (well, I don't NEED any boat....). 3) you don't
have room for it (I'll make some room....). 4) you should finish the
canoe/kayak refurb/Micro first (well maybe she has a point there...) 5) we
can't afford it (but Luan ply is soooo cheap, and I got a mess of goo and
glass leftover from the canoe, and.....). There's a beach full of Gulls
nearby, I've rowed a few and know how fun they are, and the fact that David
and Sue threw a couple together over a long weekend doesn't help put me off
the idea either, nor do all David's reports of his escapades in Toby - talk
about instant gratification! Besides, rowing might just be ideal therapy for
the nasty back problems that have slowed progress on micro.... hmmmmm.....
anybody know the beam of a gull offhand? Wondering if it'd fit out my
bulkhead door, the garage is full of Micro......
Paul L, having a bit of trouble trying to concentrate and get some work done
here on Cape Cod....
>> At this point, there's only the middle seat. I'm still working outA fellow I surf with out here is the deckhand on the world's largest
>my rod holder/frames/additional seating/flotation scheme.
>
>For a real sport-fisherman, you need a flying bridge and tuna tower...
>
sportfishing boat (about 125'). The thing burns fuel on the order of
300 gallons/hour. The flybridge is 40' off the water!
I wonder how their cost per pound caught compares to Toby's? ;-)
YIBB,
David
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
> At this point, there's only the middle seat. I'm still working outmy rod holder/frames/additional seating/flotation scheme.
For a real sport-fisherman, you need a flying bridge and tuna tower...
>I followed your link to the Gullapalooza pictures. Nick work! TheI think you could even forgo the wire and use masking tape. I'm going
>photo of Sue closing the bow is exactly what I pictured for my Gull.
to try that with the next one. If it doesn't work, wire isn't too
much trouble.
>When you cut out the side panels, did you use the measurements givenSue cut the panels out to the drawing in Rochester and then brought
>in the book or did you use the method of making a pattern using a
>temporary chine and sheer attached to the molds?
them with her to Montauk.
>p.s. Do you have any other pictures of the finished Toby orI just took a few quick pictures of Toby out on the lawn and loaded them to:
>Gullapalooza? Specifically, the inside?
http://www.crumblingempire.com/gullapalooza
The file modification date will tell you which of the photos are the new ones.
At this point, there's only the middle seat. I'm still working out my
rod holder/frames/additional seating/flotation scheme.
YIBB,
David
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
The boat can certainly be built without the logs with
a few stiches and some duct tape before filletting.
You might consider a small softwood stem piecem for
ease of costruction, and fillet-tape over it. Good
luck. Sam
--- David Ryan <david@...> wrote:
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes
http://autos.yahoo.com
a few stiches and some duct tape before filletting.
You might consider a small softwood stem piecem for
ease of costruction, and fillet-tape over it. Good
luck. Sam
--- David Ryan <david@...> wrote:
>__________________________________________________
> >Could the stem be substituted with an epoxy fillet
> seam?
> >
> >Has anyone used the no-chine method to attach the
> bottom? This is the
> >stitch and glue method.
>
> Tom --
>
> Sue and I recently built two Gulls using the above
> method. Sue had
> problems with her epoxy not curing off, but I have
> been *extremely*
> happy with my boat.
>
> A couple of things to keep in mind:
>
> 1) If you look at the plans for the forward molds
> and the stem,
> you'll see that theres a little bow built into the
> side panels.
> Without a nice stout piece of wood for the stem, I
> don't see any way
> to enforce that bow into the side panels. Certainly
> I couldn't do it
> on my boat. The boat doesn't seem any worse for not
> having it.
>
> 2) Sue and I had the thought that a "diablo" style
> stem might make
> alignment of the bow easier. I have a new thought.
> If I were in
> production, I'd make a "stem mold" and leave it as
> part of the jig.
>
> 3) The bottom goes on easy as can be. No wire
> required, just weight
> with bricks. If you rip a 4'x8' sheet of plywood
> into one piece 25"
> and the other piece 22 7/8", you can get the bottom
> from that one
> sheet, including the buttblock.
>
> 4) Sues stem and chine fillets were quite thick
> compared to mine, she
> also laid tape on top of them. When I build my
> wife's Gull, I'll
> stick with the smaller fillets, but I will put tape
> on the inside of
> the seems as well.
>
> 5) We "scabbed" the frames onto the mold stations
> and built the boat
> onto them. The fit was poor and I won't do this
> again. Next time I'll
> glue and glass the hull on the molds, then turn and
> fit the frames in
> place.
>
> 6) Get good wood for your gunnels. The mahogony Sue
> and I used
> cracked going on (in two places,) and crack again
> when I dumped in
> the shore-break. I laid up my Teal using nice piece
> of Doug Fir, and
> it's survived three years of abuse with no
> complaints.
>
> You will love, love, love your Gull! Rows
> beautifully. Goes out
> through small surf nicely. Just the right size for
> one person to fish
> out of. Handles predictably coming back in.
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
> C.E.P.
> 415 W.46th Street
> New York, New York 10036
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> Mobile (646) 325-8325
> Office (212) 247-0296
>
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes
http://autos.yahoo.com
>Sure you could, Just butter on side with som peanut butter
> Could the stem be substituted with an epoxy fillet seam?
consistency epoxy, and bring the ends together. If the stem won't
lie straight, get a piec of pply cut from the narrow width, and runa
few drywall screws though a stright line on the ply into the stem.
When the boat is turnned over, you can put in a decent sized fillet
and some glass.
>the
> Has anyone used the no-chine method to attach the bottom? This is
> stitch and glue method.I might be inclined to use all the frames, and stringers on the
bottom of the panels. You could decide on a few less necesary
frames, and just make them out of 1x2. Aren't there some that become
frames in the final boat?
I would find some clean lumber and make external stringers for the
bottom panel edge, and staple and glue the bottom to them. Again
when you flip it, you can tape the inside seam. Them just blow off
the outside stringer with a router, jigsaw, or grinder, and tape that
seam.
Depending on the kind of tools you have, this could be done very
cheaply/quickly, and would ensure fairness.
>
I built essentially the same boat with no forms at all.
See Paul VandenBosch's very nice South Haven Dory site for more
details at:
http://cruisenews.net/construction.html
Paul's offsets for the South Haven Dory are very close to the Gull's
so I see no reason why you couldn't build a Gull this way too.
A couple cautions:
1. Paul's offsets allow for the bottom to be a little longer and
wider than the actual boat is. The idea being that you partially
stitch the boat then trim the bow section of the bottom before
stitching the rest of the way. I really do not like this idea, it
works much better to just cut it right to begin with.
2. There is an error in the listed length of the shear clamps. They
are about a foot longer that the measurement he gives (he says 15'
2", mine were 16'), so check befor cutting.
I wrote Paul about these two things, but I don't think he has changed
the site.
You will not regret building one of these boats, they are very good
looking and row like a dream.
Pete
See Paul VandenBosch's very nice South Haven Dory site for more
details at:
http://cruisenews.net/construction.html
Paul's offsets for the South Haven Dory are very close to the Gull's
so I see no reason why you couldn't build a Gull this way too.
A couple cautions:
1. Paul's offsets allow for the bottom to be a little longer and
wider than the actual boat is. The idea being that you partially
stitch the boat then trim the bow section of the bottom before
stitching the rest of the way. I really do not like this idea, it
works much better to just cut it right to begin with.
2. There is an error in the listed length of the shear clamps. They
are about a foot longer that the measurement he gives (he says 15'
2", mine were 16'), so check befor cutting.
I wrote Paul about these two things, but I don't think he has changed
the site.
You will not regret building one of these boats, they are very good
looking and row like a dream.
Pete
Although I haven't even made my first cut yet, I can't help but
wonder if some of the mold stations could be eliminated. Since the
shape of the hull is dictated mostly by the side panels it seems that
some of the molds may be unnecessary. Especially so if the chines are
replaced with epoxy fillets.
Would it be too daring to only use Molds # 1, 4, 7 & the transom?
I'm thinking of proceeding as follows:
1. Build strongback as shown on the plans.
2. Cut out Molds 1, 4, & 7 from 3/4" particleboard.
3. Build Tombstone Transom.
4. Attach Molds & Transom to strongback.
Tom
wonder if some of the mold stations could be eliminated. Since the
shape of the hull is dictated mostly by the side panels it seems that
some of the molds may be unnecessary. Especially so if the chines are
replaced with epoxy fillets.
Would it be too daring to only use Molds # 1, 4, 7 & the transom?
I'm thinking of proceeding as follows:
1. Build strongback as shown on the plans.
2. Cut out Molds 1, 4, & 7 from 3/4" particleboard.
3. Build Tombstone Transom.
4. Attach Molds & Transom to strongback.
Tom
--- In bolger@y..., "trund1024" <trund1024@a...> wrote:
> Thanks for the advice David,
>
> I followed your link to the Gullapalooza pictures. Nick work! The
> photo of Sue closing the bow is exactly what I pictured for my
Gull.
>
> When you cut out the side panels, did you use the measurements
given
> in the book or did you use the method of making a pattern using a
> temporary chine and sheer attached to the molds?
>
> Tom
>
> p.s. Do you have any other pictures of the finished Toby or
> Gullapalooza? Specifically, the inside?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
> >
> > >Could the stem be substituted with an epoxy fillet seam?
> > >
> > >Has anyone used the no-chine method to attach the bottom? This
is
> the
> > >stitch and glue method.
> >
> > Tom --
> >
> > Sue and I recently built two Gulls using the above method. Sue
had
> > problems with her epoxy not curing off, but I have been
*extremely*
> > happy with my boat.
> >
> > A couple of things to keep in mind:
> >
> > 1) If you look at the plans for the forward molds and the stem,
> > you'll see that theres a little bow built into the side panels.
> > Without a nice stout piece of wood for the stem, I don't see any
> way
> > to enforce that bow into the side panels. Certainly I couldn't do
> it
> > on my boat. The boat doesn't seem any worse for not having it.
> >
> > 2) Sue and I had the thought that a "diablo" style stem might
make
> > alignment of the bow easier. I have a new thought. If I were in
> > production, I'd make a "stem mold" and leave it as part of the
jig.
> >
> > 3) The bottom goes on easy as can be. No wire required, just
weight
> > with bricks. If you rip a 4'x8' sheet of plywood into one piece
25"
> > and the other piece 22 7/8", you can get the bottom from that one
> > sheet, including the buttblock.
> >
> > 4) Sues stem and chine fillets were quite thick compared to mine,
> she
> > also laid tape on top of them. When I build my wife's Gull, I'll
> > stick with the smaller fillets, but I will put tape on the inside
> of
> > the seems as well.
> >
> > 5) We "scabbed" the frames onto the mold stations and built the
> boat
> > onto them. The fit was poor and I won't do this again. Next time
> I'll
> > glue and glass the hull on the molds, then turn and fit the
frames
> in
> > place.
> >
> > 6) Get good wood for your gunnels. The mahogony Sue and I used
> > cracked going on (in two places,) and crack again when I dumped
in
> > the shore-break. I laid up my Teal using nice piece of Doug Fir,
> and
> > it's survived three years of abuse with no complaints.
> >
> > You will love, love, love your Gull! Rows beautifully. Goes out
> > through small surf nicely. Just the right size for one person to
> fish
> > out of. Handles predictably coming back in.
> >
> > YIBB,
> >
> > David
> >
> > C.E.P.
> > 415 W.46th Street
> > New York, New York 10036
> >http://www.crumblingempire.com
> > Mobile (646) 325-8325
> > Office (212) 247-0296
Thanks for the advice David,
I followed your link to the Gullapalooza pictures. Nick work! The
photo of Sue closing the bow is exactly what I pictured for my Gull.
When you cut out the side panels, did you use the measurements given
in the book or did you use the method of making a pattern using a
temporary chine and sheer attached to the molds?
Tom
p.s. Do you have any other pictures of the finished Toby or
Gullapalooza? Specifically, the inside?
I followed your link to the Gullapalooza pictures. Nick work! The
photo of Sue closing the bow is exactly what I pictured for my Gull.
When you cut out the side panels, did you use the measurements given
in the book or did you use the method of making a pattern using a
temporary chine and sheer attached to the molds?
Tom
p.s. Do you have any other pictures of the finished Toby or
Gullapalooza? Specifically, the inside?
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
>
> >Could the stem be substituted with an epoxy fillet seam?
> >
> >Has anyone used the no-chine method to attach the bottom? This is
the
> >stitch and glue method.
>
> Tom --
>
> Sue and I recently built two Gulls using the above method. Sue had
> problems with her epoxy not curing off, but I have been *extremely*
> happy with my boat.
>
> A couple of things to keep in mind:
>
> 1) If you look at the plans for the forward molds and the stem,
> you'll see that theres a little bow built into the side panels.
> Without a nice stout piece of wood for the stem, I don't see any
way
> to enforce that bow into the side panels. Certainly I couldn't do
it
> on my boat. The boat doesn't seem any worse for not having it.
>
> 2) Sue and I had the thought that a "diablo" style stem might make
> alignment of the bow easier. I have a new thought. If I were in
> production, I'd make a "stem mold" and leave it as part of the jig.
>
> 3) The bottom goes on easy as can be. No wire required, just weight
> with bricks. If you rip a 4'x8' sheet of plywood into one piece 25"
> and the other piece 22 7/8", you can get the bottom from that one
> sheet, including the buttblock.
>
> 4) Sues stem and chine fillets were quite thick compared to mine,
she
> also laid tape on top of them. When I build my wife's Gull, I'll
> stick with the smaller fillets, but I will put tape on the inside
of
> the seems as well.
>
> 5) We "scabbed" the frames onto the mold stations and built the
boat
> onto them. The fit was poor and I won't do this again. Next time
I'll
> glue and glass the hull on the molds, then turn and fit the frames
in
> place.
>
> 6) Get good wood for your gunnels. The mahogony Sue and I used
> cracked going on (in two places,) and crack again when I dumped in
> the shore-break. I laid up my Teal using nice piece of Doug Fir,
and
> it's survived three years of abuse with no complaints.
>
> You will love, love, love your Gull! Rows beautifully. Goes out
> through small surf nicely. Just the right size for one person to
fish
> out of. Handles predictably coming back in.
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
> C.E.P.
> 415 W.46th Street
> New York, New York 10036
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> Mobile (646) 325-8325
> Office (212) 247-0296
>Could the stem be substituted with an epoxy fillet seam?Tom --
>
>Has anyone used the no-chine method to attach the bottom? This is the
>stitch and glue method.
Sue and I recently built two Gulls using the above method. Sue had
problems with her epoxy not curing off, but I have been *extremely*
happy with my boat.
A couple of things to keep in mind:
1) If you look at the plans for the forward molds and the stem,
you'll see that theres a little bow built into the side panels.
Without a nice stout piece of wood for the stem, I don't see any way
to enforce that bow into the side panels. Certainly I couldn't do it
on my boat. The boat doesn't seem any worse for not having it.
2) Sue and I had the thought that a "diablo" style stem might make
alignment of the bow easier. I have a new thought. If I were in
production, I'd make a "stem mold" and leave it as part of the jig.
3) The bottom goes on easy as can be. No wire required, just weight
with bricks. If you rip a 4'x8' sheet of plywood into one piece 25"
and the other piece 22 7/8", you can get the bottom from that one
sheet, including the buttblock.
4) Sues stem and chine fillets were quite thick compared to mine, she
also laid tape on top of them. When I build my wife's Gull, I'll
stick with the smaller fillets, but I will put tape on the inside of
the seems as well.
5) We "scabbed" the frames onto the mold stations and built the boat
onto them. The fit was poor and I won't do this again. Next time I'll
glue and glass the hull on the molds, then turn and fit the frames in
place.
6) Get good wood for your gunnels. The mahogony Sue and I used
cracked going on (in two places,) and crack again when I dumped in
the shore-break. I laid up my Teal using nice piece of Doug Fir, and
it's survived three years of abuse with no complaints.
You will love, love, love your Gull! Rows beautifully. Goes out
through small surf nicely. Just the right size for one person to fish
out of. Handles predictably coming back in.
YIBB,
David
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
Yesterday I received the book from Payson. I am extremely pleased
with the turn around. Less than a week from the time I dropped my
order in the mailbox to the time my order arrived.
My enthusiasm caused me to read the book twice last night and come up
with two questions for previous Gull builders:
Could the stem be substituted with an epoxy fillet seam?
Has anyone used the no-chine method to attach the bottom? This is the
stitch and glue method.
If it sounds like I'm a little tenative about working with hardwood,
it's true. I think it's because the only source of white oak near me
is a run down lumber yard in a not so nice neighborhood. Also, I
could probably save some money and future rot problems by elimating
the oak stem and chines. I've built a couple of boats using the
stitch and glue method and have been very satisfied with it. By using
an epoxy fillet in lieu of the oak stem and chines, I assume there
will be significant savings in weight.
Tom
with the turn around. Less than a week from the time I dropped my
order in the mailbox to the time my order arrived.
My enthusiasm caused me to read the book twice last night and come up
with two questions for previous Gull builders:
Could the stem be substituted with an epoxy fillet seam?
Has anyone used the no-chine method to attach the bottom? This is the
stitch and glue method.
If it sounds like I'm a little tenative about working with hardwood,
it's true. I think it's because the only source of white oak near me
is a run down lumber yard in a not so nice neighborhood. Also, I
could probably save some money and future rot problems by elimating
the oak stem and chines. I've built a couple of boats using the
stitch and glue method and have been very satisfied with it. By using
an epoxy fillet in lieu of the oak stem and chines, I assume there
will be significant savings in weight.
Tom
I built my Gypsy from Payson's book and had no problems that weren't from my
own inexperience. I'm also myopic, so reading the tiny numbers wasn't a
problem for me.
Roger S
own inexperience. I'm also myopic, so reading the tiny numbers wasn't a
problem for me.
Roger S
> Many do build from the book alone....01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
> However, I am now 85% done with a Gypsy and am
> very glad I bought the scale plans. It is
> nice to be able to measure directly off the plans
> with a scale rather than having to work out of the
> book like I did for the model I built.
>
> Have a great build!
> Brent
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "trund1024" <trund1024@a...> wrote:
> > Dear Group:
> >
> > Thanks to all of your replies regarding my various inquiries, I have
> > taken my first step towards becoming a member of the Bolgerhood. This
> > morning, I sent my order form to H.H. Payson for the book on how to
> > build the Gloucester Gull. Once it comes I plan to read it cover to
> > cover at least three times and then I will move forward with
> > construction. Hopefully, by the end of August.
> >
> > Could the Gull be built from the book alone?
> >
> > Tom
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., jhkohnen@b... wrote:
> > > This fellow likes his just fine, though I don't know if he ever did
> > a
> > > head-to-head comparison with the transom stern model:
> > >
> > >http://www.boat-links.com/messabout/02/Messabout-2.html
> > >
> > > Bolger thought the changes he made were an improvement. I suspect
> > that the
> > > reason the double-ended dory was not a success were entirely
> > aesthetic,
> > > people just liked the look of the tombstone transomed light dory
> > better.
> > > After seeing a type 5 in person (only seen one), I think I'd build
> > that one
> > > if I was going to build a light dory (and I may some day...).
> > >
> > > On Thu, 11 Jul 2002 11:15:57 +1200, Stuart Crawford wrote:
> > > > Does anyone have any experience with the light dory type five, in
> > chapter
> > > > 4 of small boats. If so, how does it compare with the Gloucester
> > Gull?
> > >
> > > --
> > > John <jkohnen@b...>
> > >http://www.boat-links.com/
> > > Outside of a dog, a book is a man's best friend.
> > > Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read. <Groucho Marx>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> Could the Gull be built from the book alone?I think that was the idea. I have built a bunch of boats from the
>
> Tom
>
>
>
books, so I really can't comment on the benefit of plans. I have
made up for it by buying a bunch of plans for larger Bolger boats I
have never built. I am currently working towards a 35 foot proa.
>
Many do build from the book alone....
However, I am now 85% done with a Gypsy and am
very glad I bought the scale plans. It is
nice to be able to measure directly off the plans
with a scale rather than having to work out of the
book like I did for the model I built.
Have a great build!
Brent
However, I am now 85% done with a Gypsy and am
very glad I bought the scale plans. It is
nice to be able to measure directly off the plans
with a scale rather than having to work out of the
book like I did for the model I built.
Have a great build!
Brent
--- In bolger@y..., "trund1024" <trund1024@a...> wrote:
> Dear Group:
>
> Thanks to all of your replies regarding my various inquiries, I have
> taken my first step towards becoming a member of the Bolgerhood. This
> morning, I sent my order form to H.H. Payson for the book on how to
> build the Gloucester Gull. Once it comes I plan to read it cover to
> cover at least three times and then I will move forward with
> construction. Hopefully, by the end of August.
>
> Could the Gull be built from the book alone?
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., jhkohnen@b... wrote:
> > This fellow likes his just fine, though I don't know if he ever did
> a
> > head-to-head comparison with the transom stern model:
> >
> >http://www.boat-links.com/messabout/02/Messabout-2.html
> >
> > Bolger thought the changes he made were an improvement. I suspect
> that the
> > reason the double-ended dory was not a success were entirely
> aesthetic,
> > people just liked the look of the tombstone transomed light dory
> better.
> > After seeing a type 5 in person (only seen one), I think I'd build
> that one
> > if I was going to build a light dory (and I may some day...).
> >
> > On Thu, 11 Jul 2002 11:15:57 +1200, Stuart Crawford wrote:
> > > Does anyone have any experience with the light dory type five, in
> chapter
> > > 4 of small boats. If so, how does it compare with the Gloucester
> Gull?
> >
> > --
> > John <jkohnen@b...>
> >http://www.boat-links.com/
> > Outside of a dog, a book is a man's best friend.
> > Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read. <Groucho Marx>
The streched version does have bulkheads, and does
require some care to keep any twist out of the long
panels. One nice feature of the streched vesion is
that it has longitudinal seat bearers, with movable
seats, rather than fixed seats. I suspect these could
be adapted to the 16' boat.
--- Many of
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require some care to keep any twist out of the long
panels. One nice feature of the streched vesion is
that it has longitudinal seat bearers, with movable
seats, rather than fixed seats. I suspect these could
be adapted to the 16' boat.
--- Many of
> bolger's tack and__________________________________________________
> tape boats have bulkheads anyway. Unless you really
> want to built
> the longer boat, there may not be much differentce
> in the time
> required to build the gull, on frames, and the cost
> will be lower.
>
>
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Dear Group:
Thanks to all of your replies regarding my various inquiries, I have
taken my first step towards becoming a member of the Bolgerhood. This
morning, I sent my order form to H.H. Payson for the book on how to
build the Gloucester Gull. Once it comes I plan to read it cover to
cover at least three times and then I will move forward with
construction. Hopefully, by the end of August.
Could the Gull be built from the book alone?
Tom
Thanks to all of your replies regarding my various inquiries, I have
taken my first step towards becoming a member of the Bolgerhood. This
morning, I sent my order form to H.H. Payson for the book on how to
build the Gloucester Gull. Once it comes I plan to read it cover to
cover at least three times and then I will move forward with
construction. Hopefully, by the end of August.
Could the Gull be built from the book alone?
Tom
--- In bolger@y..., jhkohnen@b... wrote:
> This fellow likes his just fine, though I don't know if he ever did
a
> head-to-head comparison with the transom stern model:
>
>http://www.boat-links.com/messabout/02/Messabout-2.html
>
> Bolger thought the changes he made were an improvement. I suspect
that the
> reason the double-ended dory was not a success were entirely
aesthetic,
> people just liked the look of the tombstone transomed light dory
better.
> After seeing a type 5 in person (only seen one), I think I'd build
that one
> if I was going to build a light dory (and I may some day...).
>
> On Thu, 11 Jul 2002 11:15:57 +1200, Stuart Crawford wrote:
> > Does anyone have any experience with the light dory type five, in
chapter
> > 4 of small boats. If so, how does it compare with the Gloucester
Gull?
>
> --
> John <jkohnen@b...>
>http://www.boat-links.com/
> Outside of a dog, a book is a man's best friend.
> Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read. <Groucho Marx>
This fellow likes his just fine, though I don't know if he ever did a
head-to-head comparison with the transom stern model:
http://www.boat-links.com/messabout/02/Messabout-2.html
Bolger thought the changes he made were an improvement. I suspect that the
reason the double-ended dory was not a success were entirely aesthetic,
people just liked the look of the tombstone transomed light dory better.
After seeing a type 5 in person (only seen one), I think I'd build that one
if I was going to build a light dory (and I may some day...).
head-to-head comparison with the transom stern model:
http://www.boat-links.com/messabout/02/Messabout-2.html
Bolger thought the changes he made were an improvement. I suspect that the
reason the double-ended dory was not a success were entirely aesthetic,
people just liked the look of the tombstone transomed light dory better.
After seeing a type 5 in person (only seen one), I think I'd build that one
if I was going to build a light dory (and I may some day...).
On Thu, 11 Jul 2002 11:15:57 +1200, Stuart Crawford wrote:
> Does anyone have any experience with the light dory type five, in chapter
> 4 of small boats. If so, how does it compare with the Gloucester Gull?
--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.boat-links.com/
Outside of a dog, a book is a man's best friend.
Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read. <Groucho Marx>
--- In bolger@y..., "John Bell" <jmbell@m...> wrote:
quite narrow at the waterline. It is one of the nicest boats I have
rowed, and that comes from a big fat base including collegiate
rowing.I rowed everything they had at wooden boat, and was stunned by
how great the Gull was to row, since I still then harboured an anti
flat boat prejudice, and WB had a few quite slinky hulls on hand. I
am not sure how it would be improved.
> Gull is more of a traditionally styled boat. Some may even sayprettier. I
> expect they both perform about the same.It may be traditional in look, but not so much in proportion, it is
>
> JB (Builder of Sportdory)
>
quite narrow at the waterline. It is one of the nicest boats I have
rowed, and that comes from a big fat base including collegiate
rowing.I rowed everything they had at wooden boat, and was stunned by
how great the Gull was to row, since I still then harboured an anti
flat boat prejudice, and WB had a few quite slinky hulls on hand. I
am not sure how it would be improved.
The regular length one is great for two to three people, and the
plans are public domain, available in a number of books, in a lot of
libraries. Tack and tape isn't the same as stich an glue, not all
expansions may be provide, or they may. Many of bolger's tack and
tape boats have bulkheads anyway. Unless you really want to built
the longer boat, there may not be much differentce in the time
required to build the gull, on frames, and the cost will be lower.
plans are public domain, available in a number of books, in a lot of
libraries. Tack and tape isn't the same as stich an glue, not all
expansions may be provide, or they may. Many of bolger's tack and
tape boats have bulkheads anyway. Unless you really want to built
the longer boat, there may not be much differentce in the time
required to build the gull, on frames, and the cost will be lower.
Gull is more of a traditionally styled boat. Some may even say prettier. I
expect they both perform about the same.
JB (Builder of Sportdory)
expect they both perform about the same.
JB (Builder of Sportdory)
----- Original Message -----
From: "billfye" <bfye@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2002 6:54 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Gloucester Gull
| I don't know if this has been covered before, but how does the Gull
compare with the Michalak designed "Sport Dory"? What are the
advantages/disadvantages of each?
|
| Thanks,
|
| Bill Fye
|
|
| --- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
| > Tom --
| >
| > I just finished building a Gull out here in Montauk and row it in the
| > ocean all the time. The flair of the bow it just the thing for rowing
| > out through small breakers, and she surfs nicely on the way back in.
| >
| > If you want to borrow my jig, it's ready to go.
| >
| > -David
| >
| > >I read on the instant boats website that the Gloucester Gull is not
| > >an instant boat. Is this boat difficult to build?
| > >
| > >Could the Gull be rowed in the ocean? Perhaps around Long Island?
| > >
| > >Tom
|
|
|
|
| Bolger rules!!!
| - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
| - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
| - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
| - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
| - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
| - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
|
| Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
|
|
I don't know if this has been covered before, but how does the Gull compare with the Michalak designed "Sport Dory"? What are the advantages/disadvantages of each?
Thanks,
Bill Fye
Thanks,
Bill Fye
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
> Tom --
>
> I just finished building a Gull out here in Montauk and row it in the
> ocean all the time. The flair of the bow it just the thing for rowing
> out through small breakers, and she surfs nicely on the way back in.
>
> If you want to borrow my jig, it's ready to go.
>
> -David
>
> >I read on the instant boats website that the Gloucester Gull is not
> >an instant boat. Is this boat difficult to build?
> >
> >Could the Gull be rowed in the ocean? Perhaps around Long Island?
> >
> >Tom
David:
Thanks for the offer. I have a ladder style jig/strongback left over
from my last boat building project. I may just have to lengthen it a
bit to accomodate the Gull since the last boat I built on it was only
14ft. For some reason, I'm also excited about lofting the molds
myself. The last boat I built, I took the easy way out and went with
a frame kit. However the frames were not assembled. They were merely
precut and numbered.
My first step now is to order the book from Payson on how to build
this boat.
Tom
Thanks for the offer. I have a ladder style jig/strongback left over
from my last boat building project. I may just have to lengthen it a
bit to accomodate the Gull since the last boat I built on it was only
14ft. For some reason, I'm also excited about lofting the molds
myself. The last boat I built, I took the easy way out and went with
a frame kit. However the frames were not assembled. They were merely
precut and numbered.
My first step now is to order the book from Payson on how to build
this boat.
Tom
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
> Tom --
>
> I just finished building a Gull out here in Montauk and row it in
the
> ocean all the time. The flair of the bow it just the thing for
rowing
> out through small breakers, and she surfs nicely on the way back in.
>
> If you want to borrow my jig, it's ready to go.
>
> -David
>
> >I read on the instant boats website that the Gloucester Gull is not
> >an instant boat. Is this boat difficult to build?
> >
> >Could the Gull be rowed in the ocean? Perhaps around Long Island?
> >
> >Tom
> >
> >
> >
> >Bolger rules!!!
> >- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> >- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> >- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and
<snip> away
> >- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
> >MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> >- Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> >- Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@y...
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> C.E.P.
> 415 W.46th Street
> New York, New York 10036
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> (212) 247-0296
> Doesn't Payson have this in his paper catalog?Don't know. Neither Gull nor Big Gull is on the web site.
Inquire at
mailto:%20sales1@...
>So I could get plans for the long Gull (Big Dory) from Phil Bolger andCertainly.
>Friends??
Best of luck,
Mark
Don't get worried about building a boat on a temporary frame Tom. The
Gull would be very easy....all you have to know is how to use a
level, and plane a simple bevel.
Building a boat on a frame is a superior method to "instant boats"
and will more easily give you an accurate job, and less fiddly.
DonB
Gull would be very easy....all you have to know is how to use a
level, and plane a simple bevel.
Building a boat on a frame is a superior method to "instant boats"
and will more easily give you an accurate job, and less fiddly.
DonB
--- In bolger@y..., "trund1024" <trund1024@a...> wrote:
> I read on the instant boats website that the Gloucester Gull is not
> an instant boat. Is this boat difficult to build?
>
> Could the Gull be rowed in the ocean? Perhaps around Long Island?
>
> Tom
Doesn't Payson have this in his paper catalog?
--- In bolger@y..., Mark Albanese <marka@h...> wrote:
>
>
> brucehector wrote:
> >
> > Plans for "Big Dory" are still avaiable, along with a dozen other
> > Bolger designs from www.common-sense-boats.com at very reasonable
> > prices.
>
> Common Sense Boats is not an, "Authorized" representative of Phil
Bolger & Friends.
> Previous posts from others here give the reproduction quality of the
sets and follow up
> consults a
> somewhat poor reputation.
>
> Mark
Howdy
So I could get plans for the long Gull (Big Dory) from Phil Bolger and
Friends??
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://www.cableone.net/bcanderson/
So I could get plans for the long Gull (Big Dory) from Phil Bolger and
Friends??
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://www.cableone.net/bcanderson/
Does anyone have any experience with the light dory type five, in chapter 4
of small boats. If so, how does it compare with the Gloucester Gull?
Stuart Crawford
New Zealand
of small boats. If so, how does it compare with the Gloucester Gull?
Stuart Crawford
New Zealand
brucehector wrote:
Previous posts from others here give the reproduction quality of the sets and follow up
consults a
somewhat poor reputation.
Mark
>Common Sense Boats is not an, "Authorized" representative of Phil Bolger & Friends.
> Plans for "Big Dory" are still avaiable, along with a dozen other
> Bolger designs from www.common-sense-boats.com at very reasonable
> prices.
Previous posts from others here give the reproduction quality of the sets and follow up
consults a
somewhat poor reputation.
Mark
Plans for "Big Dory" are still avaiable, along with a dozen other
Bolger designs from www.common-sense-boats.com at very reasonable
prices.
Bolger designs from www.common-sense-boats.com at very reasonable
prices.
Tom --
I just finished building a Gull out here in Montauk and row it in the
ocean all the time. The flair of the bow it just the thing for rowing
out through small breakers, and she surfs nicely on the way back in.
If you want to borrow my jig, it's ready to go.
-David
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
I just finished building a Gull out here in Montauk and row it in the
ocean all the time. The flair of the bow it just the thing for rowing
out through small breakers, and she surfs nicely on the way back in.
If you want to borrow my jig, it's ready to go.
-David
>I read on the instant boats website that the Gloucester Gull is notC.E.P.
>an instant boat. Is this boat difficult to build?
>
>Could the Gull be rowed in the ocean? Perhaps around Long Island?
>
>Tom
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
>MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
I got my plans from the old "Common Sense designs"
website--I believe they called it "big dory." "Common
Sense" and Bolger, from what I hear, no longer do
business. I think Bolger calls the boat the
"stretched light dory." It is a version of the Gull,
or light dory, stretched to just under 20'. I have
corresponded w/ Mr. Bolger about this boat. He
considers it, I believe, a better boat for two or
three people than the 16 footer. The boat rows
beautifully, but I have never rowed a 16' so can't
compare them. The tombstone transom with sculling
notch is of little use on this boat, and it would
simplify building to use the pointed stern version
described in Bolger's "Small Boats". Sam.
--- "Bruce C. Anderson" <bcanderson@...>
wrote:
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website--I believe they called it "big dory." "Common
Sense" and Bolger, from what I hear, no longer do
business. I think Bolger calls the boat the
"stretched light dory." It is a version of the Gull,
or light dory, stretched to just under 20'. I have
corresponded w/ Mr. Bolger about this boat. He
considers it, I believe, a better boat for two or
three people than the 16 footer. The boat rows
beautifully, but I have never rowed a 16' so can't
compare them. The tombstone transom with sculling
notch is of little use on this boat, and it would
simplify building to use the pointed stern version
described in Bolger's "Small Boats". Sam.
--- "Bruce C. Anderson" <bcanderson@...>
wrote:
> Howdy Sam__________________________________________________
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2002 10:10 AM
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Gloucester Gull
>
>
> > The Gull was designed to be built on a strongback.
> It
> > can be built "instant boat" fashion, however, and
> in
> > fact the plans for the stretched version
> contemplate
> > this construction.
>
> Stretched version???? Where can I get information
> on that??
>
> Thanks
>
> See Ya
>
> Have Fun
>
> Bruce
>
>http://www.cableone.net/bcanderson/
>
>
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Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
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Howdy Sam
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2002 10:10 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Gloucester Gull
> The Gull was designed to be built on a strongback. It
> can be built "instant boat" fashion, however, and in
> fact the plans for the stretched version contemplate
> this construction.
Stretched version???? Where can I get information on that??
Thanks
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://www.cableone.net/bcanderson/
The Gull was designed to be built on a strongback. It
can be built "instant boat" fashion, however, and in
fact the plans for the streched version contemplate
this construction. It is easy to build, and a
beautiful boat, to row and to look at.
Good Luck. Sam
--- trund1024 <trund1024@...> wrote:
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can be built "instant boat" fashion, however, and in
fact the plans for the streched version contemplate
this construction. It is easy to build, and a
beautiful boat, to row and to look at.
Good Luck. Sam
--- trund1024 <trund1024@...> wrote:
> I read on the instant boats website that the__________________________________________________
> Gloucester Gull is not
> an instant boat. Is this boat difficult to build?
>
> Could the Gull be rowed in the ocean? Perhaps around
> Long Island?
>
> Tom
>
>
Do You Yahoo!?
Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
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I read on the instant boats website that the Gloucester Gull is not
an instant boat. Is this boat difficult to build?
Could the Gull be rowed in the ocean? Perhaps around Long Island?
Tom
an instant boat. Is this boat difficult to build?
Could the Gull be rowed in the ocean? Perhaps around Long Island?
Tom
Richard:
In my experience, epoxy alone will not prevent checking. You will
need to apply a layer of light (2 oz.) fiberglass cloth with the
resin to stabilize the wood. Perhaps someone else will confirm this.
Good luck on the project.
Chuck Leinweber
In my experience, epoxy alone will not prevent checking. You will
need to apply a layer of light (2 oz.) fiberglass cloth with the
resin to stabilize the wood. Perhaps someone else will confirm this.
Good luck on the project.
Chuck Leinweber
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Richard Sharp" <rbsharp@g...> wrote:
> I have decided to spruce up my Gloucester Gull dory. After
throwing
> all kinds of paint onto it over the last fifteen years, I am taking
> it all off with a hot air gun and trying to seal the wood with
epoxy,
> something I should have done when I built it. The wood has been
> splitting and cracking the paint every year. A little sanding and
> another coat made it look pretty good.....if you stood back fifty
> feet or so.
> Yesterday it was sunny and 75 degrees in Philadelphia; early this
> morning it was snowing pretty good. Can't wait to get on the water
> again! I have been sailing all winter on the computer via "Virtual
> Sailor" software. Best investment I ever made!
> I just wanted to send this e-mail to be sure I am still with the
> group. I have had a little trouble getting here since the changes.
> I am interested in hearing from all you Folding Schooner fans.
Mine
> is still under the covers. It was built 22 years ago and is in
> better shape than the dory. Love these Bolger boats!
> Rich Sharp
I have decided to spruce up my Gloucester Gull dory. After throwing
all kinds of paint onto it over the last fifteen years, I am taking
it all off with a hot air gun and trying to seal the wood with epoxy,
something I should have done when I built it. The wood has been
splitting and cracking the paint every year. A little sanding and
another coat made it look pretty good.....if you stood back fifty
feet or so.
Yesterday it was sunny and 75 degrees in Philadelphia; early this
morning it was snowing pretty good. Can't wait to get on the water
again! I have been sailing all winter on the computer via "Virtual
Sailor" software. Best investment I ever made!
I just wanted to send this e-mail to be sure I am still with the
group. I have had a little trouble getting here since the changes.
I am interested in hearing from all you Folding Schooner fans. Mine
is still under the covers. It was built 22 years ago and is in
better shape than the dory. Love these Bolger boats!
Rich Sharp
all kinds of paint onto it over the last fifteen years, I am taking
it all off with a hot air gun and trying to seal the wood with epoxy,
something I should have done when I built it. The wood has been
splitting and cracking the paint every year. A little sanding and
another coat made it look pretty good.....if you stood back fifty
feet or so.
Yesterday it was sunny and 75 degrees in Philadelphia; early this
morning it was snowing pretty good. Can't wait to get on the water
again! I have been sailing all winter on the computer via "Virtual
Sailor" software. Best investment I ever made!
I just wanted to send this e-mail to be sure I am still with the
group. I have had a little trouble getting here since the changes.
I am interested in hearing from all you Folding Schooner fans. Mine
is still under the covers. It was built 22 years ago and is in
better shape than the dory. Love these Bolger boats!
Rich Sharp