Re: Lenihan HomeMade Charcoal Cabin Heater
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "alaskamaz" <mzeiger@h...> wrote:
If I am the "genius" then you're surely the technical wizard who
will not only improve on the design but render drawings worthy of
being called such.
Checked out your triloboats site..WOW...you deserve to win the
competition based on that alone:-)
Good luck!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,dumb and gettin' dumber as things head toward a nice
Spring time thaw.............
>> Howdy!He ain't heavy...he's my brother........thanks for weighing in Dave.
>
> Sorry, Peter, to have turned out to be neither rich nor relative!
>
> Yes, Peter Lenihan IS the genius behind what I've been calling the
> 'Lenihan Heater'. I drew up a lines drawing of a variation of the
> sketch Peter sent me, and include it with the plans for Trilobyte
> (hopefully they'll be ready for shipping by 4 Feb... 11 Feb at the
> latest (www.triloboats.com)).
>
> Thanks for letting me weigh in!
>
> Dave Zeiger
If I am the "genius" then you're surely the technical wizard who
will not only improve on the design but render drawings worthy of
being called such.
Checked out your triloboats site..WOW...you deserve to win the
competition based on that alone:-)
Good luck!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,dumb and gettin' dumber as things head toward a nice
Spring time thaw.............
Another link for Aladdin lamps
http://www.aladdinlamps.us/
HJ
saillips wrote:
http://www.aladdinlamps.us/
HJ
saillips wrote:
>--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@p...> wrote:
>
>
>>The wick is round but trimming is no big deal, Aladdin makes a tool
>>
>>
>for
>
>Hello all, You may already be aware of this source, but this guy has
>oil lamps from Alladin, Da Haan (sp?), Weims & Plath, and others. The
>Yacht lamps by Da Haan are small and seem a relatively good value.No
>progress on my BW2 in Dec or Jan. Life's other priorities filled my
>plate.
>
>http://www.oillampman.com/start.html
>
>Take care, David
>
>
>
>
>
Fellow Members,
With your indulgence, I'll introduce a guest to the forum, my brother
Dave, whose entry in the Duckworks Magazine design contest started
this thread on the Lenihan heater:
Howdy!
Sorry, Peter, to have turned out to be neither rich nor relative!
Yes, Peter Lenihan IS the genius behind what I've been calling the
'Lenihan Heater'. I drew up a lines drawing of a variation of the
sketch Peter sent me, and include it with the plans for Trilobyte
(hopefully they'll be ready for shipping by 4 Feb... 11 Feb at the
latest (www.triloboats.com)).
The principle variations are:
a) There are two sets of 'cuffs'... one high on the combustion
chamber, for loading. One low (above the grill) for lighting and
draft control. The cuffs themselves are from split sections of the
same diameter pipe for a tighter fit. Full sized openings in the
cuffs (matching those in the combustion chamber) are cut on three
sides, then 'peeled' open to form a handle.
b) Sheet metal screws set under and above the loading and draft
cuffs, heads proud, to act as 'tracks'. They allow the cuff to slide
horizontally around the combustion chamber. Align the openings for
access, misalign for closure.
c) At the base of the combustion chamber is a large cap attatched to
the lower end of the combustion chamber with a 'bayonet' style socket
(sheet metal screws, again, for pins). This serves as an ash bin.
I'd think a redundant tin can of greater capacity, set out from the
cap with three radial bolts, would limit ash escapees.
I've not tried this variation, yet, so may take some tinkering to
debug. In particular, it remains to be seen if the cuffs can be made
from the same diameter as the combustion chamber (or will it grip too
tight to slide?). Going size up may be necessary after all.
Thanks for letting me weigh in!
Dave Zeiger
With your indulgence, I'll introduce a guest to the forum, my brother
Dave, whose entry in the Duckworks Magazine design contest started
this thread on the Lenihan heater:
Howdy!
Sorry, Peter, to have turned out to be neither rich nor relative!
Yes, Peter Lenihan IS the genius behind what I've been calling the
'Lenihan Heater'. I drew up a lines drawing of a variation of the
sketch Peter sent me, and include it with the plans for Trilobyte
(hopefully they'll be ready for shipping by 4 Feb... 11 Feb at the
latest (www.triloboats.com)).
The principle variations are:
a) There are two sets of 'cuffs'... one high on the combustion
chamber, for loading. One low (above the grill) for lighting and
draft control. The cuffs themselves are from split sections of the
same diameter pipe for a tighter fit. Full sized openings in the
cuffs (matching those in the combustion chamber) are cut on three
sides, then 'peeled' open to form a handle.
b) Sheet metal screws set under and above the loading and draft
cuffs, heads proud, to act as 'tracks'. They allow the cuff to slide
horizontally around the combustion chamber. Align the openings for
access, misalign for closure.
c) At the base of the combustion chamber is a large cap attatched to
the lower end of the combustion chamber with a 'bayonet' style socket
(sheet metal screws, again, for pins). This serves as an ash bin.
I'd think a redundant tin can of greater capacity, set out from the
cap with three radial bolts, would limit ash escapees.
I've not tried this variation, yet, so may take some tinkering to
debug. In particular, it remains to be seen if the cuffs can be made
from the same diameter as the combustion chamber (or will it grip too
tight to slide?). Going size up may be necessary after all.
Thanks for letting me weigh in!
Dave Zeiger
OOOPS... It' the WEEMS and Plath Yacht lamps, under the DEN Haan
section! DL
section! DL
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@p...> wrote:
Hello all, You may already be aware of this source, but this guy has
oil lamps from Alladin, Da Haan (sp?), Weims & Plath, and others. The
Yacht lamps by Da Haan are small and seem a relatively good value.No
progress on my BW2 in Dec or Jan. Life's other priorities filled my
plate.
http://www.oillampman.com/start.html
Take care, David
> The wick is round but trimming is no big deal, Aladdin makes a toolfor
Hello all, You may already be aware of this source, but this guy has
oil lamps from Alladin, Da Haan (sp?), Weims & Plath, and others. The
Yacht lamps by Da Haan are small and seem a relatively good value.No
progress on my BW2 in Dec or Jan. Life's other priorities filled my
plate.
http://www.oillampman.com/start.html
Take care, David
The wick is round but trimming is no big deal, Aladdin makes a tool for
it. The mantles collapse when you turn it up too high and the lamp
"smokes" up and carbon forms on the mantle. We used the lamps daily and
I would say the mantles would average over a month maybe more. Having to
change a mantle was a big deal. There is no seasoning, just getting use
to them. They do put out a lot of light, we had one in the kitchen on a
wall bracket, one on a really neat hanging chain over dad's reading
chair and one on the dining room table. In addition there were about 6
regular wick lamps around the house.
HJ
Nels wrote:
it. The mantles collapse when you turn it up too high and the lamp
"smokes" up and carbon forms on the mantle. We used the lamps daily and
I would say the mantles would average over a month maybe more. Having to
change a mantle was a big deal. There is no seasoning, just getting use
to them. They do put out a lot of light, we had one in the kitchen on a
wall bracket, one on a really neat hanging chain over dad's reading
chair and one on the dining room table. In addition there were about 6
regular wick lamps around the house.
HJ
Nels wrote:
>--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@p...> wrote:
>
>
>>I was raised in a house without electricity and our lights were all
>>kerosene. Three of them were Aladdin, and they truly are the
>>
>>
>Cadillac of
>
>
>>kerosene lamps. I have always thought they would be a little
>>
>>
>fragile for
>
>
>>boat use.
>>
>>HJ
>>
>>
>>
>Did they have a round wick? I recall trimming that wick was an art
>and not a science. Some of the mantles lasted for ages and others
>collapsed overnight. Seemed they had to be "seasoned" just right. But
>they gave a beautiful light, and lit up the whole dining room table,
>which an ordinary lamp could not do.
>
>I think you can get them for boats. Bruunton has a gas lantern that
>has a metal mesh mantel. I wonder if anybody else has?
>
>Cheers, Nels
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>.
>
>
>
There are a number of boats in the Pac NW that I personally know that use Aladdin lamps. You can still buy them new as well as the wicks (don't ask me the retailers, but a Google search should bring them up).
Ron Fossum
Ron Fossum
----- Original Message -----
From: Nels
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 29, 2005 7:29 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Lenihan HomeMade Charcoal Cabin Heater
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@p...> wrote:
> I was raised in a house without electricity and our lights were all
> kerosene. Three of them were Aladdin, and they truly are the
Cadillac of
> kerosene lamps. I have always thought they would be a little
fragile for
> boat use.
>
> HJ
>
Did they have a round wick? I recall trimming that wick was an art
and not a science. Some of the mantles lasted for ages and others
collapsed overnight. Seemed they had to be "seasoned" just right. But
they gave a beautiful light, and lit up the whole dining room table,
which an ordinary lamp could not do.
I think you can get them for boats. Bruunton has a gas lantern that
has a metal mesh mantel. I wonder if anybody else has?
Cheers, Nels
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@h...>
wrote:
games" those guys, called the "Pork Eaters" only had to go as far as
Grand Portage. Then things got tough! This was were they met the
Western Brigades who never saw all those luxurious pleasures you
fondly reminise about in your blurry Maudite haze. The prettiest
sight the Western brigader got to even hope - was to have a date
with - was a porkeater and share some of his scummy pork and beans,
as they exchanged loads. Then they had to paddle back northwest all
the way to Fort Chip before freeze up! Can you imagine going all that
way and not one Tim Horton's?
Cheers, Nels
wrote:
>> FINALLY! Now the world will know,despite hushed rumours to theis
> contrary,that Le Mouton Noir de Kingston aka Big Bad Bruce Hector
> not a truck load short of a load nor was he not kidding around whenby "stinking
> he extolled the benefits various of la Maudite!
> My only reservation about the brief article cited is that they are
> way under-dosed,at only one bottle, for optimium effect.Must be a
> magazine for beginners or"gentleman canoers"....
> The voyageurs of lore were a darned tough lot when one considers
> their relatively recent arrival from the old world,thrust into the
> incredibly vast wilderness of the new world accompanied
> savages" to paddle in narrow bark covered boats up and down sometribes,coping
> fast and turbulant rivers while hauling considerable loads of
> stinking beaver belts,bear skins,racoon hides and surviving on God
> knows what kinds of food requiring no refrigeration,tormented by
> herds of black flies,threatened by "unfriendly" native
> with wild variations in weather in the hope of returning back tocoin
> Montreal with a goodly sized haul to pay them a handfull of the
> of the realm.The mere pittance paid out,in light of the extremeonly
> conditions endured, was made more palatable through the comforts
> afforded by the ever growing town of Montreal(ex
> Hochelaga).Unfortunately,one may all too easily imagine too the
> hungry lust these men carried in their hearts while away and how
> they must have just about drained the houses of ill repute upon
> their much heralded return.Thus we are left with a vision,not un-
> like that of sailors from the past,of le lonely lustful voyageur
> squandering his richly earned loot on debaucheries various left
> with a wicked skull splitting hangover, a somewhat lighter moneyof
> pouch and one of a host of venerial diseases.If he wasn't
> mercifully "taken into the arms of the Lord" after the first year
> this enterprise,then he became a much hardened individual andYeah but Peter you have to remember that it wasn't all "fun and
> requiring of strong refreshment to lighten,what surely must have
> been one hell of a damned frightfully hard existance.
games" those guys, called the "Pork Eaters" only had to go as far as
Grand Portage. Then things got tough! This was were they met the
Western Brigades who never saw all those luxurious pleasures you
fondly reminise about in your blurry Maudite haze. The prettiest
sight the Western brigader got to even hope - was to have a date
with - was a porkeater and share some of his scummy pork and beans,
as they exchanged loads. Then they had to paddle back northwest all
the way to Fort Chip before freeze up! Can you imagine going all that
way and not one Tim Horton's?
Cheers, Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@p...> wrote:
and not a science. Some of the mantles lasted for ages and others
collapsed overnight. Seemed they had to be "seasoned" just right. But
they gave a beautiful light, and lit up the whole dining room table,
which an ordinary lamp could not do.
I think you can get them for boats. Bruunton has a gas lantern that
has a metal mesh mantel. I wonder if anybody else has?
Cheers, Nels
> I was raised in a house without electricity and our lights were allCadillac of
> kerosene. Three of them were Aladdin, and they truly are the
> kerosene lamps. I have always thought they would be a littlefragile for
> boat use.Did they have a round wick? I recall trimming that wick was an art
>
> HJ
>
and not a science. Some of the mantles lasted for ages and others
collapsed overnight. Seemed they had to be "seasoned" just right. But
they gave a beautiful light, and lit up the whole dining room table,
which an ordinary lamp could not do.
I think you can get them for boats. Bruunton has a gas lantern that
has a metal mesh mantel. I wonder if anybody else has?
Cheers, Nels
I was raised in a house without electricity and our lights were all
kerosene. Three of them were Aladdin, and they truly are the Cadillac of
kerosene lamps. I have always thought they would be a little fragile for
boat use.
HJ
Philip Smith wrote:
kerosene. Three of them were Aladdin, and they truly are the Cadillac of
kerosene lamps. I have always thought they would be a little fragile for
boat use.
HJ
Philip Smith wrote:
>... and don't yet know if the 'smell' will be
>tolerable.
>
>You can buy de-oderized kerosene. Although I think
>space would be an issue I believe that the Aladdin
>lamps that Rob White speaks highly of and which I've
>had great experiences, have a bulkhead mounting
>bracket. You need to install a "smoke bell" above the
>chimney to avoid setting the overhead on fire.
>
>The Aladdin lamps put out white light, quite bright
>enough to read by. They aren't pressureized so there's
>no anoying hiss. Don't forget to take a couple of
>extra mantles and maybe an extra chimney with you...
>
>Phil Smith
>
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@h...> wrote:
contrary,that Le Mouton Noir de Kingston aka Big Bad Bruce Hector is
not a truck load short of a load nor was he not kidding around when
he extolled the benefits various of la Maudite!
My only reservation about the brief article cited is that they are
way under-dosed,at only one bottle, for optimium effect.Must be a
magazine for beginners or"gentleman canoers"....
The voyageurs of lore were a darned tough lot when one considers
their relatively recent arrival from the old world,thrust into the
incredibly vast wilderness of the new world accompanied by "stinking
savages" to paddle in narrow bark covered boats up and down some
fast and turbulant rivers while hauling considerable loads of
stinking beaver belts,bear skins,racoon hides and surviving on God
knows what kinds of food requiring no refrigeration,tormented by
herds of black flies,threatened by "unfriendly" native tribes,coping
with wild variations in weather in the hope of returning back to
Montreal with a goodly sized haul to pay them a handfull of the coin
of the realm.The mere pittance paid out,in light of the extreme
conditions endured, was made more palatable through the comforts
afforded by the ever growing town of Montreal(ex
Hochelaga).Unfortunately,one may all too easily imagine too the
hungry lust these men carried in their hearts while away and how
they must have just about drained the houses of ill repute upon
their much heralded return.Thus we are left with a vision,not un-
like that of sailors from the past,of le lonely lustful voyageur
squandering his richly earned loot on debaucheries various left only
with a wicked skull splitting hangover, a somewhat lighter money
pouch and one of a host of venerial diseases.If he wasn't
mercifully "taken into the arms of the Lord" after the first year of
this enterprise,then he became a much hardened individual and
requiring of strong refreshment to lighten,what surely must have
been one hell of a damned frightfully hard existance.
We are a soft and spoiled lot,by comparison, and although those
times will not return again(thank Christ for tender mericies!) I
find it most illuminating to park my fat ass along the very banks of
the St.Lawrence behind the Hudson Bay fur depot that served as both
point of departure and return for these voyageurs,and to drink manly
quantities of the "good stuff" to the point where the line between
today and yesterday vanishes and my vision is sufficiantly blurred(I
take off my glasses for increased effect) so that it becomes very
easy to hear the plunge and recover of a dozen paddles heaving their
canoes toward the landing and to almost make out the makings of some
long lost song coming in on a muggy freshwater evening
breeze.........
Darn....no Bolger content....will it be enough to say things are
progressing handsomely with Windermere despite weather more familiar
to polar bears and that pictures will be posted once another roll is
finished in the camera?
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, feeling the nervous twitchings of cabin fever but
resolute in my determination not to let it get the better of me...
Ha!... from along the frozen shores of the mighty
St.Lawrence........
> >a "perfect
> Speaking of booze. The latest issue of "Canoe & Kayak" has a brief
> article on page 22 extolling the qualities of Maudite as
> Paddling Swill." It goes on to say that "one 25-oz bottle is moreFINALLY! Now the world will know,despite hushed rumours to the
> than enough to alleviate the aches and pains of paddling all day."
>
> Tabernac! - not the type of paddling a true Voyageur endures.
>
>http://unibroue.com/products/maudite.cfm
>
> Cheers, Nels
contrary,that Le Mouton Noir de Kingston aka Big Bad Bruce Hector is
not a truck load short of a load nor was he not kidding around when
he extolled the benefits various of la Maudite!
My only reservation about the brief article cited is that they are
way under-dosed,at only one bottle, for optimium effect.Must be a
magazine for beginners or"gentleman canoers"....
The voyageurs of lore were a darned tough lot when one considers
their relatively recent arrival from the old world,thrust into the
incredibly vast wilderness of the new world accompanied by "stinking
savages" to paddle in narrow bark covered boats up and down some
fast and turbulant rivers while hauling considerable loads of
stinking beaver belts,bear skins,racoon hides and surviving on God
knows what kinds of food requiring no refrigeration,tormented by
herds of black flies,threatened by "unfriendly" native tribes,coping
with wild variations in weather in the hope of returning back to
Montreal with a goodly sized haul to pay them a handfull of the coin
of the realm.The mere pittance paid out,in light of the extreme
conditions endured, was made more palatable through the comforts
afforded by the ever growing town of Montreal(ex
Hochelaga).Unfortunately,one may all too easily imagine too the
hungry lust these men carried in their hearts while away and how
they must have just about drained the houses of ill repute upon
their much heralded return.Thus we are left with a vision,not un-
like that of sailors from the past,of le lonely lustful voyageur
squandering his richly earned loot on debaucheries various left only
with a wicked skull splitting hangover, a somewhat lighter money
pouch and one of a host of venerial diseases.If he wasn't
mercifully "taken into the arms of the Lord" after the first year of
this enterprise,then he became a much hardened individual and
requiring of strong refreshment to lighten,what surely must have
been one hell of a damned frightfully hard existance.
We are a soft and spoiled lot,by comparison, and although those
times will not return again(thank Christ for tender mericies!) I
find it most illuminating to park my fat ass along the very banks of
the St.Lawrence behind the Hudson Bay fur depot that served as both
point of departure and return for these voyageurs,and to drink manly
quantities of the "good stuff" to the point where the line between
today and yesterday vanishes and my vision is sufficiantly blurred(I
take off my glasses for increased effect) so that it becomes very
easy to hear the plunge and recover of a dozen paddles heaving their
canoes toward the landing and to almost make out the makings of some
long lost song coming in on a muggy freshwater evening
breeze.........
Darn....no Bolger content....will it be enough to say things are
progressing handsomely with Windermere despite weather more familiar
to polar bears and that pictures will be posted once another roll is
finished in the camera?
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, feeling the nervous twitchings of cabin fever but
resolute in my determination not to let it get the better of me...
Ha!... from along the frozen shores of the mighty
St.Lawrence........
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Gene T." <goldranger02-boats@y...>
wrote:
article on page 22 extolling the qualities of Maudite as a "perfect
Paddling Swill." It goes on to say that "one 25-oz bottle is more
than enough to alleviate the aches and pains of paddling all day."
Tabernac! - not the type of paddling a true Voyageur endures.
http://unibroue.com/products/maudite.cfm
Cheers, Nels
wrote:
> Shure you aren't remembering a still?Speaking of booze. The latest issue of "Canoe & Kayak" has a brief
>
> Gene T.
>
article on page 22 extolling the qualities of Maudite as a "perfect
Paddling Swill." It goes on to say that "one 25-oz bottle is more
than enough to alleviate the aches and pains of paddling all day."
Tabernac! - not the type of paddling a true Voyageur endures.
http://unibroue.com/products/maudite.cfm
Cheers, Nels
Shure you aren't remembering a still?
Gene T.
--- donm172001 <Don_Maurer@...> wrote:
Gene T.
--- donm172001 <Don_Maurer@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> You don't need anything as fancy as a steam
> radiator. A copper coil
> wrapped around the heat source (the lenihan stove in
> this case), a
> can with some fittings brazed on and a lid for a hot
> water tank will
> work. When I was a boy scout, many moons ago, we had
> a contraption
> called "Bubbling Emma" that we would bring on
> campouts. It was
> essentially a metal garbage can with a brass fitting
> at the top and
> bottom to which we attached a copper coil. The coil
> was placed in the
> fire ring. The can was filled with water just below
> the top fitting
> and within an hour of building a fire we had a
> source of steaming hot
> water for washing dishes or whatever we needed it
> for. The same
> principle would work on a smaller scale to heat a
> cabin and provide
> hot water to boot. Plus, the stove stays outside the
> cabin so you
> don't have to worry about carbon monoxide or someone
> knocking it over.
>
>
>
We did the same thing with a five gallen bucket. The secret was for
the cooler water at the bottem of the bucket to enter the bottem of
the coil layed flat and exit to the top of the coil and back to the
top fitting on the bucket. As the water heated in the coil it would
move up the coil til it purked like a coffe pot.
Jon
the cooler water at the bottem of the bucket to enter the bottem of
the coil layed flat and exit to the top of the coil and back to the
top fitting on the bucket. As the water heated in the coil it would
move up the coil til it purked like a coffe pot.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "donm172001" <Don_Maurer@m...> wrote:
>
>
> You don't need anything as fancy as a steam radiator. A copper coil
> wrapped around the heat source (the lenihan stove in this case), a
> can with some fittings brazed on and a lid for a hot water tank
will
> work. When I was a boy scout, many moons ago, we had a contraption
> called "Bubbling Emma" that we would bring on campouts. It was
> essentially a metal garbage can with a brass fitting at the top and
> bottom to which we attached a copper coil. The coil was placed in
the
> fire ring. The can was filled with water just below the top fitting
> and within an hour of building a fire we had a source of steaming
hot
> water for washing dishes or whatever we needed it for. The same
> principle would work on a smaller scale to heat a cabin and provide
> hot water to boot. Plus, the stove stays outside the cabin so you
> don't have to worry about carbon monoxide or someone knocking it
over.
You don't need anything as fancy as a steam radiator. A copper coil
wrapped around the heat source (the lenihan stove in this case), a
can with some fittings brazed on and a lid for a hot water tank will
work. When I was a boy scout, many moons ago, we had a contraption
called "Bubbling Emma" that we would bring on campouts. It was
essentially a metal garbage can with a brass fitting at the top and
bottom to which we attached a copper coil. The coil was placed in the
fire ring. The can was filled with water just below the top fitting
and within an hour of building a fire we had a source of steaming hot
water for washing dishes or whatever we needed it for. The same
principle would work on a smaller scale to heat a cabin and provide
hot water to boot. Plus, the stove stays outside the cabin so you
don't have to worry about carbon monoxide or someone knocking it over.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Gabriel K. McAtee" <gmcatee@s...>
wrote:
wrapped around the heat source (the lenihan stove in this case), a
can with some fittings brazed on and a lid for a hot water tank will
work. When I was a boy scout, many moons ago, we had a contraption
called "Bubbling Emma" that we would bring on campouts. It was
essentially a metal garbage can with a brass fitting at the top and
bottom to which we attached a copper coil. The coil was placed in the
fire ring. The can was filled with water just below the top fitting
and within an hour of building a fire we had a source of steaming hot
water for washing dishes or whatever we needed it for. The same
principle would work on a smaller scale to heat a cabin and provide
hot water to boot. Plus, the stove stays outside the cabin so you
don't have to worry about carbon monoxide or someone knocking it over.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Gabriel K. McAtee" <gmcatee@s...>
wrote:
> That's a great idea, Peter!wood
>
> We used to heat the garage at my grandpa's ranch similarly... A big
> burning stove (a converted above-ground propane tank, no less) wasmodified
> such that all of the gases flowing up the flue had to pass througha very
> loose grate formed by several pieces of pipe connected with U-bends. A
> couple of holes were drilled in the end of the tank for an inletand outlet.
> The outlet dropped down pipes that had been poured into theconcrete floor.
> The pipes ran around the perimeter of the garage and in towards thecenter
> of the floor in a concentric rectangle, and then (still embedded inthe
> concrete) back over by the stove and into a sump tank. By the timeit got
> there it was no more than lukewarm, and a sump pump pumped it backup into
> the stove.think;
>
> For simplicity's sake, in a boat it ought to be gravity fed I would
> running a sump pump continuously would be a drain on the batteries,at least
> in a sailboat. A steam-powered pump might do the trick, Isuppose... :)
> Otherwise, it would be wise to make sure that the radiator wasnever lower
> than the inlet to the boiling tank, and that there was a one-wayvalve on
> both the inlet and the outlet. Theoretically, as long as the one-way valve
> works, the boiler is pressurized, and so on, the steam expansionwould power
> the circulation, but if I was going to go so far as to buildsomething like
> that, it would be a permanent fixture, not a temporary kind ofthing.
> Anything that uses enough steam power to run itself like thatshould be
> treated with respect!!!last ship
>
> I still remember the damage control and firefighting chief on my
> demonstrating what happens when live steam is released from aboiler...
> They took each class down into the boiler room, opened all of thehatches,
> and cracked a pressure bleed-off valve. The steam would come outbecame
> superheated, invisible, and loud enough to deafen a fellow. It
> visible six feet away where it hit the port bulkhead, which was theinner
> hull of the ship, because the bulkhead was connected to the outerhull via
> steel beams which conduct the cold of 20' deep sea water quitewell, and
> thus was always about 60-65 degrees fahrenheit. After letting ussee the
> steam cool to the visible stage (typical white, puffy clouds) thechief
> would grab a broomstick and pass it through the steam about a footaway from
> the valve, and the steam would cut the broomstick in two...you would
>
> Moral of the story: treat steam with the same amount of respect
> gasoline, kerosene, or any other dangerous fluid. It'll kill youjust as
> dead if you don't...Though I
>
> --Gabe
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peter Lenihan [mailto:peterlenihan@h...]
> Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2005 12:27 AM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Lenihan HomeMade Charcoal Cabin Heater
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
> > Actually, I purchased up a metal kerosene fueled chimney lantern,
> > which probably will put out enough heat to warm the cabin.
> > haven't mounted it yet, and don't yet know if the 'smell' will bewarm
> > tolerable. Bolger did write that the heat from candles served to
> > the cabin of Micro, in his essay _The Lovers_.essay,The
>
> Bruce,
>
> I tried the 4 candles in a block of wood,as refered to in the
> Lovers. Problems I encountered:other
> a)Had to be kept near the floor to avoid burning the overhead.
> b)Once on the floor,had to be VERY careful not to get bedding or
> flamable material near open flames.the sole
> c)Wax run-off went everywhere and became a bother to clean up off
> at daybreak.Micro
> d)The through ventilation provided by the fore and aft vents on the
> was sufficiant to exhaust whatever heat the candles were generating.set,then along
>
> Thus,I concluded that;
> e)it is much warmer in the Mediterranean,where the story is
> the St.Lawrence.small
> f)the story is a work of fiction
> g)2"lovers" could probably generate all the heat required for a
> village.go a
> h)the story is a work of fiction
> i)insulation,along with a "proper" heater and protected flame would
> long way late into the colder seasons.number of
> j)the story is a work of fiction.
> k)The Micro really needs a double berth layout to maximize the
> contortions available to active,heat-generating lovers :-)heat.I was
>
> Sorry to suggest that all Californians were blessed with tropical
> unaware of a northern distinction.Nevertheless, I can't help butthink that
> even those existing at the extreme Polar northern limit ofCalifornia must
> surely be considerably warmer then even those in Canada's mostsouthern
> point :-Dradiator,driven
>
> Lately, I've been doodling with notions of a mini hot water
> by steam/boiling water from a kettle placed on a cook-stove orplugged into
> shore power.All plumbing would be thick- walled coppertubing..........
>digit sub
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Peter Lenihan,counting down the days left before we see single
> zero temps again!posts
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away01930, Fax:
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
That's a great idea, Peter!
We used to heat the garage at my grandpa's ranch similarly... A big wood
burning stove (a converted above-ground propane tank, no less) was modified
such that all of the gases flowing up the flue had to pass through a very
loose grate formed by several pieces of pipe connected with U-bends. A
couple of holes were drilled in the end of the tank for an inlet and outlet.
The outlet dropped down pipes that had been poured into the concrete floor.
The pipes ran around the perimeter of the garage and in towards the center
of the floor in a concentric rectangle, and then (still embedded in the
concrete) back over by the stove and into a sump tank. By the time it got
there it was no more than lukewarm, and a sump pump pumped it back up into
the stove.
For simplicity's sake, in a boat it ought to be gravity fed I would think;
running a sump pump continuously would be a drain on the batteries, at least
in a sailboat. A steam-powered pump might do the trick, I suppose... :)
Otherwise, it would be wise to make sure that the radiator was never lower
than the inlet to the boiling tank, and that there was a one-way valve on
both the inlet and the outlet. Theoretically, as long as the one-way valve
works, the boiler is pressurized, and so on, the steam expansion would power
the circulation, but if I was going to go so far as to build something like
that, it would be a permanent fixture, not a temporary kind of thing.
Anything that uses enough steam power to run itself like that should be
treated with respect!!!
I still remember the damage control and firefighting chief on my last ship
demonstrating what happens when live steam is released from a boiler...
They took each class down into the boiler room, opened all of the hatches,
and cracked a pressure bleed-off valve. The steam would come out
superheated, invisible, and loud enough to deafen a fellow. It became
visible six feet away where it hit the port bulkhead, which was the inner
hull of the ship, because the bulkhead was connected to the outer hull via
steel beams which conduct the cold of 20' deep sea water quite well, and
thus was always about 60-65 degrees fahrenheit. After letting us see the
steam cool to the visible stage (typical white, puffy clouds) the chief
would grab a broomstick and pass it through the steam about a foot away from
the valve, and the steam would cut the broomstick in two...
Moral of the story: treat steam with the same amount of respect you would
gasoline, kerosene, or any other dangerous fluid. It'll kill you just as
dead if you don't...
--Gabe
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Lenihan [mailto:peterlenihan@...]
Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2005 12:27 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Lenihan HomeMade Charcoal Cabin Heater
We used to heat the garage at my grandpa's ranch similarly... A big wood
burning stove (a converted above-ground propane tank, no less) was modified
such that all of the gases flowing up the flue had to pass through a very
loose grate formed by several pieces of pipe connected with U-bends. A
couple of holes were drilled in the end of the tank for an inlet and outlet.
The outlet dropped down pipes that had been poured into the concrete floor.
The pipes ran around the perimeter of the garage and in towards the center
of the floor in a concentric rectangle, and then (still embedded in the
concrete) back over by the stove and into a sump tank. By the time it got
there it was no more than lukewarm, and a sump pump pumped it back up into
the stove.
For simplicity's sake, in a boat it ought to be gravity fed I would think;
running a sump pump continuously would be a drain on the batteries, at least
in a sailboat. A steam-powered pump might do the trick, I suppose... :)
Otherwise, it would be wise to make sure that the radiator was never lower
than the inlet to the boiling tank, and that there was a one-way valve on
both the inlet and the outlet. Theoretically, as long as the one-way valve
works, the boiler is pressurized, and so on, the steam expansion would power
the circulation, but if I was going to go so far as to build something like
that, it would be a permanent fixture, not a temporary kind of thing.
Anything that uses enough steam power to run itself like that should be
treated with respect!!!
I still remember the damage control and firefighting chief on my last ship
demonstrating what happens when live steam is released from a boiler...
They took each class down into the boiler room, opened all of the hatches,
and cracked a pressure bleed-off valve. The steam would come out
superheated, invisible, and loud enough to deafen a fellow. It became
visible six feet away where it hit the port bulkhead, which was the inner
hull of the ship, because the bulkhead was connected to the outer hull via
steel beams which conduct the cold of 20' deep sea water quite well, and
thus was always about 60-65 degrees fahrenheit. After letting us see the
steam cool to the visible stage (typical white, puffy clouds) the chief
would grab a broomstick and pass it through the steam about a foot away from
the valve, and the steam would cut the broomstick in two...
Moral of the story: treat steam with the same amount of respect you would
gasoline, kerosene, or any other dangerous fluid. It'll kill you just as
dead if you don't...
--Gabe
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Lenihan [mailto:peterlenihan@...]
Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2005 12:27 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Lenihan HomeMade Charcoal Cabin Heater
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
> Actually, I purchased up a metal kerosene fueled chimney lantern,
> which probably will put out enough heat to warm the cabin. Though I
> haven't mounted it yet, and don't yet know if the 'smell' will be
> tolerable. Bolger did write that the heat from candles served to warm
> the cabin of Micro, in his essay _The Lovers_.
Bruce,
I tried the 4 candles in a block of wood,as refered to in the essay,The
Lovers. Problems I encountered:
a)Had to be kept near the floor to avoid burning the overhead.
b)Once on the floor,had to be VERY careful not to get bedding or other
flamable material near open flames.
c)Wax run-off went everywhere and became a bother to clean up off the sole
at daybreak.
d)The through ventilation provided by the fore and aft vents on the Micro
was sufficiant to exhaust whatever heat the candles were generating.
Thus,I concluded that;
e)it is much warmer in the Mediterranean,where the story is set,then along
the St.Lawrence.
f)the story is a work of fiction
g)2"lovers" could probably generate all the heat required for a small
village.
h)the story is a work of fiction
i)insulation,along with a "proper" heater and protected flame would go a
long way late into the colder seasons.
j)the story is a work of fiction.
k)The Micro really needs a double berth layout to maximize the number of
contortions available to active,heat-generating lovers :-)
Sorry to suggest that all Californians were blessed with tropical heat.I was
unaware of a northern distinction.Nevertheless, I can't help but think that
even those existing at the extreme Polar northern limit of California must
surely be considerably warmer then even those in Canada's most southern
point :-D
Lately, I've been doodling with notions of a mini hot water radiator,driven
by steam/boiling water from a kettle placed on a cook-stove or plugged into
shore power.All plumbing would be thick- walled copper tubing..........
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,counting down the days left before we see single digit sub
zero temps again!
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups Links
This thread has all the possibilities of running for the next several
months or at least until the spring thaw-may it be soon.
For years since living in the west where long lonely drives were
frequent I've carried,as part of an emergency kit, one large coffee
can, matches and a package of 8 hour candles. I've never tested the
idea but a candle flame protected by the coffee can is reputed to be
sufficient to keep one from freezing to death. Maybe a couple could
keep a small cabin warm. Another bad memory is that of screams in the
night and flames from a two man pup tent the result of an upset can of
Sterno. This was a fairly frequent occurrence at Fort Leonard Wood. Of
course one has to have enough ventilation to replace the oxygen and or
to vent off the CO perhaps negating the heat generated by these devices.
Bob Chamberland
With 2 electric heaters and one kerosene heated going full blast to
warm up my garage enough to "encapsulate" some plywood.
-- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@h...> wrote:
months or at least until the spring thaw-may it be soon.
For years since living in the west where long lonely drives were
frequent I've carried,as part of an emergency kit, one large coffee
can, matches and a package of 8 hour candles. I've never tested the
idea but a candle flame protected by the coffee can is reputed to be
sufficient to keep one from freezing to death. Maybe a couple could
keep a small cabin warm. Another bad memory is that of screams in the
night and flames from a two man pup tent the result of an upset can of
Sterno. This was a fairly frequent occurrence at Fort Leonard Wood. Of
course one has to have enough ventilation to replace the oxygen and or
to vent off the CO perhaps negating the heat generated by these devices.
Bob Chamberland
With 2 electric heaters and one kerosene heated going full blast to
warm up my garage enough to "encapsulate" some plywood.
-- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@h...> wrote:
> Bolger did write that
> > the heat from candles served to warm the cabin of Micro,
> > in his essay _The Lovers_.
>
> Bruce,
>
> I tried the 4 candles in a block of wood,as refered to in the
> essay,The Lovers. Problems I encountered:
> a)Had to be kept near the floor to avoid burning the overhead.
> other flamable material near open flames.
> c)Wax run-off went everywhere and became a bother to clean up off
> the sole at daybreak.
> d)The through ventilation provided by the fore and aft vents on the
> Micro was sufficiant to exhaust whatever heat the candles were
> generating.
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
I tried the 4 candles in a block of wood,as refered to in the
essay,The Lovers. Problems I encountered:
a)Had to be kept near the floor to avoid burning the overhead.
b)Once on the floor,had to be VERY careful not to get bedding or
other flamable material near open flames.
c)Wax run-off went everywhere and became a bother to clean up off
the sole at daybreak.
d)The through ventilation provided by the fore and aft vents on the
Micro was sufficiant to exhaust whatever heat the candles were
generating.
Thus,I concluded that;
e)it is much warmer in the Mediterranean,where the story is set,then
along the St.Lawrence.
f)the story is a work of fiction
g)2"lovers" could probably generate all the heat required for a
small village.
h)the story is a work of fiction
i)insulation,along with a "proper" heater and protected flame would
go a long way late into the colder seasons.
j)the story is a work of fiction.
k)The Micro really needs a double berth layout to maximize the
number of contortions available to active,heat-generating lovers :-)
Sorry to suggest that all Californians were blessed with tropical
heat.I was unaware of a northern distinction.Nevertheless, I can't
help but think that even those existing at the extreme Polar
northern limit of California must surely be considerably warmer then
even those in Canada's most southern point :-D
Lately, I've been doodling with notions of a mini hot water
radiator,driven by steam/boiling water from a kettle placed on a
cook-stove or plugged into shore power.All plumbing would be thick-
walled copper tubing..........
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,counting down the days left before we see single digit
sub zero temps again!
> Actually, I purchased up a metal kerosene fueled chimneyBruce,
> lantern, which probably will put out enough heat to warm
> the cabin. Though I haven't mounted it yet, and don't yet
> know if the 'smell' will be tolerable. Bolger did write that
> the heat from candles served to warm the cabin of Micro,
> in his essay _The Lovers_.
I tried the 4 candles in a block of wood,as refered to in the
essay,The Lovers. Problems I encountered:
a)Had to be kept near the floor to avoid burning the overhead.
b)Once on the floor,had to be VERY careful not to get bedding or
other flamable material near open flames.
c)Wax run-off went everywhere and became a bother to clean up off
the sole at daybreak.
d)The through ventilation provided by the fore and aft vents on the
Micro was sufficiant to exhaust whatever heat the candles were
generating.
Thus,I concluded that;
e)it is much warmer in the Mediterranean,where the story is set,then
along the St.Lawrence.
f)the story is a work of fiction
g)2"lovers" could probably generate all the heat required for a
small village.
h)the story is a work of fiction
i)insulation,along with a "proper" heater and protected flame would
go a long way late into the colder seasons.
j)the story is a work of fiction.
k)The Micro really needs a double berth layout to maximize the
number of contortions available to active,heat-generating lovers :-)
Sorry to suggest that all Californians were blessed with tropical
heat.I was unaware of a northern distinction.Nevertheless, I can't
help but think that even those existing at the extreme Polar
northern limit of California must surely be considerably warmer then
even those in Canada's most southern point :-D
Lately, I've been doodling with notions of a mini hot water
radiator,driven by steam/boiling water from a kettle placed on a
cook-stove or plugged into shore power.All plumbing would be thick-
walled copper tubing..........
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,counting down the days left before we see single digit
sub zero temps again!
I remember years ago and a certain young lady who knew I lived on a
boat. I had a solid fuel stove near the bed that I never used
because my body and the electric blanket I employed put off more
than enough heat even though I lived near the Oregon border in a
harbor near the ocean. Since the stove did put off light she asked
if I would start it so it would glow and add to the ambiance of the
dinner and such.
I cannot claim that I know what her memories are from that night but
I still carry the scars of several burns that resulted from the
stove being placed to close to the bed when even a careless arm
placement would rub against the stove. The night ended well but
with memorable scars on both of our bodies. The young lady did
return again but we never used the stove again preferring the
electric blanket and a dock plug in to the brutal skin burns from a
poorly placed heater.
Heater placement near beds should be avoided in my opinion since an
accidental bump against one while wearing nearly nothing as you wake
to the call of nature can leave memories you never forget no matter
how hard you try. I can only imagine a boat that is in the midst of
unfriendly weather and trying to avoid a super heated metal stove
while bouncing from side to side of a boat. These are things people
should think of.
After the injuries on the stove I helped the owner of the boat place
the stove to a better place that would be much safer. We made many
changes to that boat but the stove is the one that sticks in my mind
now. I wonder now after all these years if that female companion
ever thinks of me and that night in November with any fondness or
just complains about the scars?
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Pete Staehling" <staehpj1@y...>
wrote:
boat. I had a solid fuel stove near the bed that I never used
because my body and the electric blanket I employed put off more
than enough heat even though I lived near the Oregon border in a
harbor near the ocean. Since the stove did put off light she asked
if I would start it so it would glow and add to the ambiance of the
dinner and such.
I cannot claim that I know what her memories are from that night but
I still carry the scars of several burns that resulted from the
stove being placed to close to the bed when even a careless arm
placement would rub against the stove. The night ended well but
with memorable scars on both of our bodies. The young lady did
return again but we never used the stove again preferring the
electric blanket and a dock plug in to the brutal skin burns from a
poorly placed heater.
Heater placement near beds should be avoided in my opinion since an
accidental bump against one while wearing nearly nothing as you wake
to the call of nature can leave memories you never forget no matter
how hard you try. I can only imagine a boat that is in the midst of
unfriendly weather and trying to avoid a super heated metal stove
while bouncing from side to side of a boat. These are things people
should think of.
After the injuries on the stove I helped the owner of the boat place
the stove to a better place that would be much safer. We made many
changes to that boat but the stove is the one that sticks in my mind
now. I wonder now after all these years if that female companion
ever thinks of me and that night in November with any fondness or
just complains about the scars?
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Pete Staehling" <staehpj1@y...>
wrote:
>to
> I guess it depends on the boat, but in any boat that I have owned
> there was enough air blowing through that it would be pretty tough
> asphixiate myself. I wouldn't be even slightly concerned as longas
> there was a draft up the flue. I think I will build one of theseand
> try it out.
>
> Some boats may breathe a lot less than mine though.
>
> Pete
... and don't yet know if the 'smell' will be
tolerable.
You can buy de-oderized kerosene. Although I think
space would be an issue I believe that the Aladdin
lamps that Rob White speaks highly of and which I've
had great experiences, have a bulkhead mounting
bracket. You need to install a "smoke bell" above the
chimney to avoid setting the overhead on fire.
The Aladdin lamps put out white light, quite bright
enough to read by. They aren't pressureized so there's
no anoying hiss. Don't forget to take a couple of
extra mantles and maybe an extra chimney with you...
Phil Smith
tolerable.
You can buy de-oderized kerosene. Although I think
space would be an issue I believe that the Aladdin
lamps that Rob White speaks highly of and which I've
had great experiences, have a bulkhead mounting
bracket. You need to install a "smoke bell" above the
chimney to avoid setting the overhead on fire.
The Aladdin lamps put out white light, quite bright
enough to read by. They aren't pressureized so there's
no anoying hiss. Don't forget to take a couple of
extra mantles and maybe an extra chimney with you...
Phil Smith
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
Some of newer kerosene's burn quite odorlessly (is that a word?).
I have a "Welsh Miner's Lantern" the 10" model that I see retails for
a big buck. ($200+ USD) and it throws out a fair amount of heat. The
workmanship on these is incredible. The base is a solid one-piece
machined brass block! I picked mine up at a Sears Clearance center
many years ago. They were selling about 10 of them with no glass
globes for $35 a pop. Had I known the globes are quite easily
obtained I would have bought them all.
http://www.redskyatnight.com/directory.cfm?CategoryID=126
However when I used to camp out in the back of my truck camper in
spring and fall I found that the good old Coleman white gas two
mantle lantern was the best of all for quick and adequate heat!
http://tinyurl.com/6pnmp
Cheers, Nels
> Actually, I purchased up a metal kerosene fueled chimneyHi Bruce,
> lantern, which probably will put out enough heat to warm
> the cabin. Though I haven't mounted it yet, and don't yet
> know if the 'smell' will be tolerable.
Some of newer kerosene's burn quite odorlessly (is that a word?).
I have a "Welsh Miner's Lantern" the 10" model that I see retails for
a big buck. ($200+ USD) and it throws out a fair amount of heat. The
workmanship on these is incredible. The base is a solid one-piece
machined brass block! I picked mine up at a Sears Clearance center
many years ago. They were selling about 10 of them with no glass
globes for $35 a pop. Had I known the globes are quite easily
obtained I would have bought them all.
http://www.redskyatnight.com/directory.cfm?CategoryID=126
However when I used to camp out in the back of my truck camper in
spring and fall I found that the good old Coleman white gas two
mantle lantern was the best of all for quick and adequate heat!
http://tinyurl.com/6pnmp
Cheers, Nels
> Why,in Gods holy name,would a resident of beautiful sunny CaliforniaI _do_ live in *Northern* California, which is not exactly tropic.
> ever want to go so far :-).....compared to more..ahem...northern
> climates,I would expect a candle or two ought to get things really
> toasty inside a small cabin.
Up here, we feel a proud distinction from the Southern California folks. <g>
Actually, I purchased up a metal kerosene fueled chimney
lantern, which probably will put out enough heat to warm
the cabin. Though I haven't mounted it yet, and don't yet
know if the 'smell' will be tolerable. Bolger did write that
the heat from candles served to warm the cabin of Micro,
in his essay _The Lovers_.
What gets my imagination going about charcoal powered cabin
heat are my fond memories of the comfort of a toasty sailboat cabin
while cruising in the water of SE Alaska, British Columbia and
Puget Sound.
For what it's worth, while it is nice to be "self sufficient" and build
things yourself, a buddy of mine decided to buy a professionally built wood
burning stove for his 44', and it has been pretty much bullet proof for wood
and charcoal. The only thing he had to worry about was installing a
ceramic/asbestos sleeve around the stovepipe where it went through the cabin
roof and putting heat-reflective ceramic tiles behind the stove and the
stovepipe. He bought the Vogelzang Cast Iron Boxwood Stove through
Northern Tool and Equipment (http://tinyurl.com/4npyg)and paid something
like $175 for that and some other stuff to get free shipping (shipping was
free for any order greater than $150 & in the continental USA). Might be
worth a look...
--Gabe
-----Original Message-----
From: Philip Smith [mailto:pbs@...]
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 8:25 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Lenihan HomeMade Charcoal Cabin Heater
To keep the cabin roof from burning up in days of yore they made a piece of
stove pipe that had a dish surrounding the pipe itself. The dish was kept
filled with water. The edges of the dish were made fast to the cabin top.
You can see one on the C.A. Thayer at the National Maritime Museum in San
Francisco when she gets back from being rebuilt.
Phil Smith
------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~--> Help
save the life of a child. Support St. Jude Children's Research Hospital's
'Thanks & Giving.'
http://us.click.yahoo.com/6iY7fA/5WnJAA/Y3ZIAA/_0TolB/TM
--------------------------------------------------------------------~->
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups Links
things yourself, a buddy of mine decided to buy a professionally built wood
burning stove for his 44', and it has been pretty much bullet proof for wood
and charcoal. The only thing he had to worry about was installing a
ceramic/asbestos sleeve around the stovepipe where it went through the cabin
roof and putting heat-reflective ceramic tiles behind the stove and the
stovepipe. He bought the Vogelzang Cast Iron Boxwood Stove through
Northern Tool and Equipment (http://tinyurl.com/4npyg)and paid something
like $175 for that and some other stuff to get free shipping (shipping was
free for any order greater than $150 & in the continental USA). Might be
worth a look...
--Gabe
-----Original Message-----
From: Philip Smith [mailto:pbs@...]
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 8:25 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Lenihan HomeMade Charcoal Cabin Heater
To keep the cabin roof from burning up in days of yore they made a piece of
stove pipe that had a dish surrounding the pipe itself. The dish was kept
filled with water. The edges of the dish were made fast to the cabin top.
You can see one on the C.A. Thayer at the National Maritime Museum in San
Francisco when she gets back from being rebuilt.
Phil Smith
------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~--> Help
save the life of a child. Support St. Jude Children's Research Hospital's
'Thanks & Giving.'
http://us.click.yahoo.com/6iY7fA/5WnJAA/Y3ZIAA/_0TolB/TM
--------------------------------------------------------------------~->
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups Links
To keep the cabin roof from burning up in days of yore
they made a piece of stove pipe that had a dish
surrounding the pipe itself. The dish was kept filled
with water. The edges of the dish were made fast to
the cabin top.
You can see one on the C.A. Thayer at the National
Maritime Museum in San Francisco when she gets back
from being rebuilt.
Phil Smith
they made a piece of stove pipe that had a dish
surrounding the pipe itself. The dish was kept filled
with water. The edges of the dish were made fast to
the cabin top.
You can see one on the C.A. Thayer at the National
Maritime Museum in San Francisco when she gets back
from being rebuilt.
Phil Smith
I guess it depends on the boat, but in any boat that I have owned
there was enough air blowing through that it would be pretty tough to
asphixiate myself. I wouldn't be even slightly concerned as long as
there was a draft up the flue. I think I will build one of these and
try it out.
Some boats may breathe a lot less than mine though.
Pete
there was enough air blowing through that it would be pretty tough to
asphixiate myself. I wouldn't be even slightly concerned as long as
there was a draft up the flue. I think I will build one of these and
try it out.
Some boats may breathe a lot less than mine though.
Pete
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jon & Wanda(Tink)" <windyjon@m...>
wrote:
This little heater really doesn't need to be
riveted,welded,soldered,brazed or bolted together.......it is meant
to be portable,temporay and compact for storage.
Peter Lenihan
wrote:
>Let
> paint cure befor painting.I've tried to understand this one but I canna do it :-)
This little heater really doesn't need to be
riveted,welded,soldered,brazed or bolted together.......it is meant
to be portable,temporay and compact for storage.
Peter Lenihan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Philip Smith <pbs@w...> wrote:
have to be pushed/slipped together and the expansion from the heat
holds them very snuggly indeed together.No fuss,fumes,no
solder...and it breaks down for really compact storage once cooled:-)
Peter Lenihan
> You would be better off welding or brazing the copper.Actually,with this crazy device all made of copper,the parts just
> Stay away from burning things in galvanized anything.
> You don't want to breathe zinc fumes.
>
> Phil Smith
have to be pushed/slipped together and the expansion from the heat
holds them very snuggly indeed together.No fuss,fumes,no
solder...and it breaks down for really compact storage once cooled:-)
Peter Lenihan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
ever want to go so far :-).....compared to more..ahem...northern
climates,I would expect a candle or two ought to get things really
toasty inside a small cabin.That is, if the food,wine and compliant
crew haven't already given cause for a glistening bead or two of
sweat to break out on ones sun-tanned brow........
but then again,what do I know! :-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,no stranger to beads breaking out at the most delicate
moments..........
> (Taking this idea too far), the burner could be fueledWhy,in Gods holy name,would a resident of beautiful sunny California
> with a gravity fed drip of kerosene (or diesel fuel),
> imagine a Bunsen Burner mounted inside a steel pipe.
ever want to go so far :-).....compared to more..ahem...northern
climates,I would expect a candle or two ought to get things really
toasty inside a small cabin.That is, if the food,wine and compliant
crew haven't already given cause for a glistening bead or two of
sweat to break out on ones sun-tanned brow........
but then again,what do I know! :-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,no stranger to beads breaking out at the most delicate
moments..........
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
If you're crafty and scroungy enough and know of a nearby
construction project,you may be able to cobble up the needed bits
for next to nothng.
I cannot speak about this CO detector but it might be useful
since I've never been able yet to detect any CO on my own.It must be
really sneaky this CO.....
The flue,by the time it left the cabin through an opening in
the companionway was near 5 feet long and not very hot near the
top.It simply passed through a tight hole in a sheet of aluminium,
cut and fitted to fill a six inch opening created by leaving the
hatch open by that amount.
This heater, I dare say, may not provide enough BTUs for an AS-
29.............:-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
> this sounds like a $30 for the heater and $30 for the carbonmonoxide
> detector type project.Hi David,
>
> what insulates the cabin top from the "stovepipe"?
>
> David Jost
If you're crafty and scroungy enough and know of a nearby
construction project,you may be able to cobble up the needed bits
for next to nothng.
I cannot speak about this CO detector but it might be useful
since I've never been able yet to detect any CO on my own.It must be
really sneaky this CO.....
The flue,by the time it left the cabin through an opening in
the companionway was near 5 feet long and not very hot near the
top.It simply passed through a tight hole in a sheet of aluminium,
cut and fitted to fill a six inch opening created by leaving the
hatch open by that amount.
This heater, I dare say, may not provide enough BTUs for an AS-
29.............:-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
What I described is what I built and used for several
seasons.Mind you,it was used only on cool nights late and early in
the season and not our typical winter temperatures:-)
I also had an aluminium plate that I could insert into the
small opening created from leaving the hatch opened about 6 inches
and through which the "chimney" passed. I cannot saw with any degree
of accuracy whether or not any CO was released into the cabin since
the device,once assembled and running,becomes "air tight" due to the
expansion on the copper.Also, I never let it run all night un-
attended.
I also found that I could knock off some of the evening chill
by simply using one of those fondu candles(the little round ones
that come in their own little aluminium dish and sell for something
like a couple-o-bucks per dozen).This was placed in the bottom
cap,or ash collector, and let to burn itself out.
The heater is laying around somewhere in a mess of stuff from
a recent move and when I find it,I'll take some pictures and post
them.
The heater,to be frank,is a very crude assembly as described
but it did serve to demonstrate for me that a properly
machined/tooled/manufactured one along those lines would indeed work.
This "proto-type" cost close to nothing since it required such
short lengths that BIG plumbing contractors often had scrap bits
laying around for"free".
One last thought on the draft/CO question;I know that most of
the small Dickenson bulkhead mounted cabin heaters all use 1" stacks
or flues. That what I used to guage my own.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,sometime tinkerer,failed machinist,wishful dreamer and
connaisseur of stinky blue cheese,from along the shores of the
almost Spring-time St.Lawrence where,rumour has it, we might
see,almost balmy,single digit sub-zero temps by early next
week.....I can't wait !
> Someone around here is probably seriously temptedHi Bruce,
> to make one, and test it, and if you do, puhleezz,
> take a few pictures to share.
>
> Peter, did you actually test one of these?
>
> I guess my biggest question is whether the
> 1 inch flue actually creates enough draft to
> keep the carbon monoxide out of the cabin.
What I described is what I built and used for several
seasons.Mind you,it was used only on cool nights late and early in
the season and not our typical winter temperatures:-)
I also had an aluminium plate that I could insert into the
small opening created from leaving the hatch opened about 6 inches
and through which the "chimney" passed. I cannot saw with any degree
of accuracy whether or not any CO was released into the cabin since
the device,once assembled and running,becomes "air tight" due to the
expansion on the copper.Also, I never let it run all night un-
attended.
I also found that I could knock off some of the evening chill
by simply using one of those fondu candles(the little round ones
that come in their own little aluminium dish and sell for something
like a couple-o-bucks per dozen).This was placed in the bottom
cap,or ash collector, and let to burn itself out.
The heater is laying around somewhere in a mess of stuff from
a recent move and when I find it,I'll take some pictures and post
them.
The heater,to be frank,is a very crude assembly as described
but it did serve to demonstrate for me that a properly
machined/tooled/manufactured one along those lines would indeed work.
This "proto-type" cost close to nothing since it required such
short lengths that BIG plumbing contractors often had scrap bits
laying around for"free".
One last thought on the draft/CO question;I know that most of
the small Dickenson bulkhead mounted cabin heaters all use 1" stacks
or flues. That what I used to guage my own.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,sometime tinkerer,failed machinist,wishful dreamer and
connaisseur of stinky blue cheese,from along the shores of the
almost Spring-time St.Lawrence where,rumour has it, we might
see,almost balmy,single digit sub-zero temps by early next
week.....I can't wait !
Done a bit (Lot) of welding Galvinized is out but black pipe and
fittings once cleand can be painted with wood stove paint in a wide
range of colors. You can even get the paint in a rattel can. Let
paint cure befor painting. With the copper use copper poprivets or a
copper screw so you can get the cap off but silver solder should take
the heat.
Jon
fittings once cleand can be painted with wood stove paint in a wide
range of colors. You can even get the paint in a rattel can. Let
paint cure befor painting. With the copper use copper poprivets or a
copper screw so you can get the cap off but silver solder should take
the heat.
Jon
Heating or burning galvanized metal is deadly poison, ask any welder.
Scott Backen
Scott Backen
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Hallman
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2005 2:03 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Lenihan HomeMade Charcoal Cabin Heater
> what insulates the cabin top from the "stovepipe"?
> David Jost
Asbestos! ;-)
The copper made me think of standard house plumbing
pipe, with soldered fittings, but then it dawned on me that
the burning charcoal would melt the solder away.
A similar idea could be applied to an assembly
of threaded galvanized plumbing pipe and fittings.
The thicker walled pipe would distribute the heat some more,
like the difference between a cast iron skillet and
a sheet metal skillet. The ashes could be retrieved
from the bottom of the tube by unthreading the bottom
cap (after cooling).
(Taking this idea too far), the burner could be fueled
with a gravity fed drip of kerosene (or diesel fuel),
imagine a Bunsen Burner mounted inside a steel pipe.
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
You would be better off welding or brazing the copper.
Stay away from burning things in galvanized anything.
You don't want to breathe zinc fumes.
Phil Smith
Stay away from burning things in galvanized anything.
You don't want to breathe zinc fumes.
Phil Smith
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
very hot after about 3 feet. Or better yet just run it out through a
gap in the hatch and secure with a piece of coat hanger wire:-)
I had an ice fishing stove like you describe Bruce. It had a kerosene
tank attached to the side and the flow was adjusted to seep into some
kind of wicking material on the bottom of the stove. It was only two
speed though. Too hot or too cold due to lag factors and adjusting
the two draft dampers - one at the bottom and one in the pipe. The
stink was enough to protect you from CO poisoning fortunately:-)
It was hand built in Minnesota so you know it was a basic design but
I think only a "Son Of Knute" knew how to work it properly. (Anybody
familar with Lake Wobegon material?)
Cheers, Nels
Cheers, Nels
> > what insulates the cabin top from the "stovepipe"?You could use muffler tape probably, but I doubt the pipe would be
> > David Jost
>
> Asbestos! ;-)
>
very hot after about 3 feet. Or better yet just run it out through a
gap in the hatch and secure with a piece of coat hanger wire:-)
I had an ice fishing stove like you describe Bruce. It had a kerosene
tank attached to the side and the flow was adjusted to seep into some
kind of wicking material on the bottom of the stove. It was only two
speed though. Too hot or too cold due to lag factors and adjusting
the two draft dampers - one at the bottom and one in the pipe. The
stink was enough to protect you from CO poisoning fortunately:-)
It was hand built in Minnesota so you know it was a basic design but
I think only a "Son Of Knute" knew how to work it properly. (Anybody
familar with Lake Wobegon material?)
Cheers, Nels
Cheers, Nels
> what insulates the cabin top from the "stovepipe"?Asbestos! ;-)
> David Jost
The copper made me think of standard house plumbing
pipe, with soldered fittings, but then it dawned on me that
the burning charcoal would melt the solder away.
A similar idea could be applied to an assembly
of threaded galvanized plumbing pipe and fittings.
The thicker walled pipe would distribute the heat some more,
like the difference between a cast iron skillet and
a sheet metal skillet. The ashes could be retrieved
from the bottom of the tube by unthreading the bottom
cap (after cooling).
(Taking this idea too far), the burner could be fueled
with a gravity fed drip of kerosene (or diesel fuel),
imagine a Bunsen Burner mounted inside a steel pipe.
wow.
this sounds like a $30 for the heater and $30 for the carbon monoxide
detector type project.
what insulates the cabin top from the "stovepipe"?
David Jost
this sounds like a $30 for the heater and $30 for the carbon monoxide
detector type project.
what insulates the cabin top from the "stovepipe"?
David Jost
> However, for anyone contemplatingWow, that device is mind boggling!
> such a device, here follows a
> description of the critter: [snip]
I doubt it is Underwriter Laboratories approved,
but it seems like it might work.
Someone around here is probably seriously tempted
to make one, and test it, and if you do, puhleezz,
take a few pictures to share.
Peter, did you actually test one of these?
I guess my biggest question is whether the
1 inch flue actually creates enough draft to
keep the carbon monoxide out of the cabin.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "ravenouspi" <ravenous@g...> wrote:
Just back from a week long absence and saw this posting about
a "Lenihan homemade charcoal heater". I was wondering what the
bejeezes could that be?!?! Did I have a rich and famous relative
somewhere out there that I could suck up to for some boat cash?!
Excited, I went to Duckworks and checked out the contest
designs.Hmmmmmm.....took me awhile to find it but, by golly, there
it was! Only after enlarging one of the drawings was I also able to
make out the name of Dave Zeiger!
And that's where all my relative-soaking-greedy-schemes came to
an end.I recalled writing to Dave,a long time ago, and sending him a
quicky sketch of a little charcoal heater I had been using in my
(then) Micro Lestat.He thought it might be useful in either his ZOON
or his self designed sharpie,modeled after the Bolger AS-29.
Being the pathetic correspondant that I am, I never followed up
with Dave on whether or not he found it useful in the weather of
Alaska.
However, for anyone contemplating such a device, here follows a
description of the critter:
A -One length of copper pipe,at least 2" diameter and about a foot
or so long.
B -One copper cap to close off one end of pipe.
C-One pipe reducer fitting going from size of your pipe down to 1"
D-One 2" length of pipe one size BIGGER then item A.
E-One wire coat hanger.
F-One length of 1"pipe for smoke stack,length to suit your own set-
up.
With this collection of copper pipe,picked up at your local
hardware store,begin by cutting out a rectangular opening or hole
about 3 inches from one end of your 2" diameter length of pipe(item
A).This opening should be about 2 inches wide and one inch high.
Remember,item A is the heater body,it stands vertically,thus the
opening you are making should run horizontaly when the pipe is
upright.
Next,cut item D to length.That is,have it at least a quarter inch
wider then the opening you have already cut into item A.Slide this
collar(item D) onto the stove body(item A)until it covers the
opening you've cut.
Then,pierce this little collar with a dozen or so holes in a tight
grouping no bigger then the hole you cut in item A.
This then is what will give you some control over the "draft" in
your heater.
Next,just above the the hole cut-out in item A,drill a few holes no
bigger then the coat hanger wire,and through which you will run
short lengths of the coat hanger wire to form a"grill" or grid onto
which your little bits of charcoal will rest.
Is this making sense so far?
If you've made it this far with the construction, the rest should
become apparent with the pipe cap forming the lower end of the
heater,just bellow the openning and the reducer fitting serving as
the top of the heater.
This heater is loaded from above,say two to three bricquettes at a
time.
You then light the first or lowest bricquette leaving it to slowly
burn until it ignites the one above it etc....
Find a secure place to keep you heater when in operation as the
copper will get very hot.
Make certain that your chimney actually exits the boat!
Never leave this thing un-attended!!!
To enhance some of the heater effect, a large juice can can be used
as a heat diffuser.
Hope this all helps,for lack of a scan.
Peter Lenihan
>Lenihan
> Reading the contest entries on Duckworks, I noted the following
> device referenced as a cheap, effective source of cabin comfort.
> Please where may I find out more about this fantastic invention.
>> What is a good idea for a cheap, lasting firebox? Perhaps
> has just the thing?Rav,
>
> Rav,
> in the deep south where it still gets bonechillingly wet and cold.
Just back from a week long absence and saw this posting about
a "Lenihan homemade charcoal heater". I was wondering what the
bejeezes could that be?!?! Did I have a rich and famous relative
somewhere out there that I could suck up to for some boat cash?!
Excited, I went to Duckworks and checked out the contest
designs.Hmmmmmm.....took me awhile to find it but, by golly, there
it was! Only after enlarging one of the drawings was I also able to
make out the name of Dave Zeiger!
And that's where all my relative-soaking-greedy-schemes came to
an end.I recalled writing to Dave,a long time ago, and sending him a
quicky sketch of a little charcoal heater I had been using in my
(then) Micro Lestat.He thought it might be useful in either his ZOON
or his self designed sharpie,modeled after the Bolger AS-29.
Being the pathetic correspondant that I am, I never followed up
with Dave on whether or not he found it useful in the weather of
Alaska.
However, for anyone contemplating such a device, here follows a
description of the critter:
A -One length of copper pipe,at least 2" diameter and about a foot
or so long.
B -One copper cap to close off one end of pipe.
C-One pipe reducer fitting going from size of your pipe down to 1"
D-One 2" length of pipe one size BIGGER then item A.
E-One wire coat hanger.
F-One length of 1"pipe for smoke stack,length to suit your own set-
up.
With this collection of copper pipe,picked up at your local
hardware store,begin by cutting out a rectangular opening or hole
about 3 inches from one end of your 2" diameter length of pipe(item
A).This opening should be about 2 inches wide and one inch high.
Remember,item A is the heater body,it stands vertically,thus the
opening you are making should run horizontaly when the pipe is
upright.
Next,cut item D to length.That is,have it at least a quarter inch
wider then the opening you have already cut into item A.Slide this
collar(item D) onto the stove body(item A)until it covers the
opening you've cut.
Then,pierce this little collar with a dozen or so holes in a tight
grouping no bigger then the hole you cut in item A.
This then is what will give you some control over the "draft" in
your heater.
Next,just above the the hole cut-out in item A,drill a few holes no
bigger then the coat hanger wire,and through which you will run
short lengths of the coat hanger wire to form a"grill" or grid onto
which your little bits of charcoal will rest.
Is this making sense so far?
If you've made it this far with the construction, the rest should
become apparent with the pipe cap forming the lower end of the
heater,just bellow the openning and the reducer fitting serving as
the top of the heater.
This heater is loaded from above,say two to three bricquettes at a
time.
You then light the first or lowest bricquette leaving it to slowly
burn until it ignites the one above it etc....
Find a secure place to keep you heater when in operation as the
copper will get very hot.
Make certain that your chimney actually exits the boat!
Never leave this thing un-attended!!!
To enhance some of the heater effect, a large juice can can be used
as a heat diffuser.
Hope this all helps,for lack of a scan.
Peter Lenihan
Sorry to be late to this thread but I just caught up with it today--
the patterns and many parts for the venerable old line of Fatsco
miniature solid fuel stoves was sold a few years ago to a retired
couple who are making them again in Mesick, Michigan (or at least
they were as late as a year ago). A real mom and pop business. They
make three stoves, the Buddy (31 lbs.,21 1/2" high), the Tiny Tot(15
lbs. 14" high), and the Pet(13lbs., 11 3/4" high--hard not to find a
space for it in the tiniest cabin). The Tiny Tot and Pet both go for
around $150--cast iron w/stainless steel body. The stoves have
graced many a bulkhead on yachts great and small for most of the
last century (they were originally designed around 1900 to keep the
milk in milkwagons warm throughout Michigan winters). The are
simple, elegant, rugged and timeless.
Wish I could send a photo or two but I haven't the means to do so-
they have a nice brochure for free, though, and are easy and fun to
talk to--J. and B. Yeomans, 5660 N. 7 Rd., Mesick, MI, 49668;(231)-
885-3288. (I don't have any part in the business--just the happy
owner of a Pet.)
-Peter Ramsey
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
wrote:
the patterns and many parts for the venerable old line of Fatsco
miniature solid fuel stoves was sold a few years ago to a retired
couple who are making them again in Mesick, Michigan (or at least
they were as late as a year ago). A real mom and pop business. They
make three stoves, the Buddy (31 lbs.,21 1/2" high), the Tiny Tot(15
lbs. 14" high), and the Pet(13lbs., 11 3/4" high--hard not to find a
space for it in the tiniest cabin). The Tiny Tot and Pet both go for
around $150--cast iron w/stainless steel body. The stoves have
graced many a bulkhead on yachts great and small for most of the
last century (they were originally designed around 1900 to keep the
milk in milkwagons warm throughout Michigan winters). The are
simple, elegant, rugged and timeless.
Wish I could send a photo or two but I haven't the means to do so-
they have a nice brochure for free, though, and are easy and fun to
talk to--J. and B. Yeomans, 5660 N. 7 Rd., Mesick, MI, 49668;(231)-
885-3288. (I don't have any part in the business--just the happy
owner of a Pet.)
-Peter Ramsey
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
wrote:
>
>
> Try searching on "ice fishing stoves". I guess it's true that if
> anything is called "marine", the price goes way up.
>
> Here's a nice ice fishing stove for $109.
>http://goodoutdoors.theshoppe.com/ice_fishing_shack_wood_stove.html
>
> >
> Bruce Hector
>http://www.brucesboats.com
Please upload photos to the files section. Yahoo reduces the size of
photos in the photos section, in order to make you buy them to see the
image full size. Only the original uploader and group moderator get to
see full size photos. Bolger 4 and Bolger 5 have free space.
Thanks,
Paul
photos in the photos section, in order to make you buy them to see the
image full size. Only the original uploader and group moderator get to
see full size photos. Bolger 4 and Bolger 5 have free space.
Thanks,
Paul
> Hello All,I've got some photos to share of the progress on my
> Birdwatcher2. I went to Bolger3 and created a new folder in the
> photos section, but there wasn't enough space to load any. Same thing
> in the files section. So to repeat myself from a message I left in
> Bolger3, I'm not experienced (smart) enough to be able to remove the
> empty folders. And so I won't do any more harm, I'll sit tight for
> now. Any "spiritual guidance" on where, when, how, to share these
> photos would be much appreciated. Thanks, sorry for the confusion.
> David L.
Hi David,
Thanks for posting the photos to Bolger4. That stern treatment for
the motor mount sure looks intriguing.
Also the interior shot showing how the framing runs is very
informative.
Keep up the good work! All the new BW info is really exciting.
Cheers, Nels
Thanks for posting the photos to Bolger4. That stern treatment for
the motor mount sure looks intriguing.
Also the interior shot showing how the framing runs is very
informative.
Keep up the good work! All the new BW info is really exciting.
Cheers, Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "saillips" <saillips@b...> wrote:
>
> Hello All,I've got some photos to share of the progress on my
> Birdwatcher2. I went to Bolger3 and created a new folder in the
> photos section, but there wasn't enough space to load any. Same
thing
> in the files section. So to repeat myself from a message I left in
> Bolger3, I'm not experienced (smart) enough to be able to remove
the
> empty folders. And so I won't do any more harm, I'll sit tight for
> now. Any "spiritual guidance" on where, when, how, to share these
> photos would be much appreciated. Thanks, sorry for the confusion.
> David L.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger4
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger5
GHC
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger5
GHC
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "saillips" <saillips@b...> wrote:
>
> Hello All,I've got some photos to share of the progress on my
> Birdwatcher2. I went to Bolger3 and created a new folder in the
> photos section, but there wasn't enough space to load any. Same thing
> in the files section. So to repeat myself from a message I left in
> Bolger3, I'm not experienced (smart) enough to be able to remove the
> empty folders. And so I won't do any more harm, I'll sit tight for
> now. Any "spiritual guidance" on where, when, how, to share these
> photos would be much appreciated. Thanks, sorry for the confusion.
> David L.
Hello All,I've got some photos to share of the progress on my
Birdwatcher2. I went to Bolger3 and created a new folder in the
photos section, but there wasn't enough space to load any. Same thing
in the files section. So to repeat myself from a message I left in
Bolger3, I'm not experienced (smart) enough to be able to remove the
empty folders. And so I won't do any more harm, I'll sit tight for
now. Any "spiritual guidance" on where, when, how, to share these
photos would be much appreciated. Thanks, sorry for the confusion.
David L.
Birdwatcher2. I went to Bolger3 and created a new folder in the
photos section, but there wasn't enough space to load any. Same thing
in the files section. So to repeat myself from a message I left in
Bolger3, I'm not experienced (smart) enough to be able to remove the
empty folders. And so I won't do any more harm, I'll sit tight for
now. Any "spiritual guidance" on where, when, how, to share these
photos would be much appreciated. Thanks, sorry for the confusion.
David L.
I bought a fancy one (it plugs in) for my barn and was dismayed to read that
it couldn't/shouldn't be stored in areas where the temperature went below
freezing. This morning it's 6 degrees F (-14 degrees C) here.
Other than that, it's a great idea.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
it couldn't/shouldn't be stored in areas where the temperature went below
freezing. This morning it's 6 degrees F (-14 degrees C) here.
Other than that, it's a great idea.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: <RKAMILS@...>
> A Battery operated CO detector is $19.95 at Wal Mart. I always
> have one on my boat.
> Bob
A Battery operated CO detector is $19.95 at Wal Mart. I always have one on my
boat.
Bob
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
boat.
Bob
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I bought one of these Harbor Freight/Chinese units a few years ago to
replace a rotted out stove that came with the house. It's not much bigger
than what you describe. Watch their sale catalogs to get the price down.
Think camp fire with cast iron replacing the rocks, and DO NOT let it get
red hot. (The CO comes right thru red hot iron.) It looks a lot like your
http://tinyurl.com/667ov
My Homeowner's Insurance made me take it out without ever firing it up.
Yes, they need ventilation (air in, smoke/fumes out), but unless you overdid
the weather stripping and caulking, it should be safe enough.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
replace a rotted out stove that came with the house. It's not much bigger
than what you describe. Watch their sale catalogs to get the price down.
Think camp fire with cast iron replacing the rocks, and DO NOT let it get
red hot. (The CO comes right thru red hot iron.) It looks a lot like your
http://tinyurl.com/667ov
My Homeowner's Insurance made me take it out without ever firing it up.
Yes, they need ventilation (air in, smoke/fumes out), but unless you overdid
the weather stripping and caulking, it should be safe enough.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <renueden@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2005 1:41 PM
Subject: RE: [bolger] Re: Lenihan HomeMade Charcoal Cabin Heater
>
> It can be difficult (read "almost impossible") to find
> a woodstove small enough for a little living space. There
> are some beautiful little stoves that are made for boats,
> but they are quite expensive. Here are some links that
> you might enjoy:http://www.marinestove.com/futurestoves.htm
>
> I had a chance, a few years ago, to buy a little two hole
> cast iron box stove, that was only about 10" tall and
> about 15" long, for $100. I have regretted not
> getting it, many times since.
>
> Here is a fairly small economical stove with a glass front:
>http://tinyurl.com/47h2c
>
> Here is a very low cost tiny stove, that is US
> made in the next town over from where I live.http://tinyurl.com/5mr4g
>http://tinyurl.com/6ynxc
>
> Here is a simple cast box stove.
>http://tinyurl.com/667ov
>
> and little tent stoves:
>http://tinyurl.com/64tap
>
> Here is a high quality stainless steel, solid fuel wall mounted heater:
>http://www.boatownersworld.com/dickinsonmarine/newport_solid_fuel_heater
> .htm
>
> I really like this little stainless steel wall mounted heater:
>http://www.bengco.co.uk/
>
> Here are instructions to make a little solid fuel heater similar to
> the Dickenson, and Bengco, but with glass front:
>http://www.btinternet.com/~faymarine/Costsavers.htm
>
> Some of us on the WoodGas yahoogroup, are working
> toward very simple high efficiency woodburning stoves,
> and wateer heaters, that gasify the wood. At this point,
> we are not building vented stoves, but we will get there. WoodGas
> exhaust is very clean, and can have most of the heat extracted.
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WoodGas
>
> -Laren Corie-
> Passive Solar Building Design Since 1975
Try the tent stoves at
http://www.alaskatent.com/products/tents/accessories.htm
I have sat in shirt sleeves in 20 below weather in one of their Arctic
oven tents with the little Arctic Oven stove keeping us warm and
telling lies until very late.
HJ
Bruce Hector wrote:
http://www.alaskatent.com/products/tents/accessories.htm
I have sat in shirt sleeves in 20 below weather in one of their Arctic
oven tents with the little Arctic Oven stove keeping us warm and
telling lies until very late.
HJ
Bruce Hector wrote:
>
>Try searching on "ice fishing stoves". I guess it's true that if
>anything is called "marine", the price goes way up.
>
>Here's a nice ice fishing stove for $109.
>http://goodoutdoors.theshoppe.com/ice_fishing_shack_wood_stove.html
>
>For welders in the group here's some plans:
>http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/icefishing_s
>tove.asp
>
>An interesting oil stove that's "mobile home approved", might work in
>a larger vessel, like a frozen Windemere.
>http://kumastoves.com/oil_stoves.html
>
>And if you really want to deal with CO, carbon monoxice, try the
>Charheat stove, but be careful, it's meant for outdoor use only!
>http://www.charheat.com/
>
>Bruce Hector
>http://www.brucesboats.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>.
>
>
>
All this home made with things that burn be it charcoal or wood and
made to go in open spaces with room scares me like a uniatended
candle. but here is a link with lots of boat stuf with a surch box at
the top.
http://stores.ebay.com/Great-Lakes-Skipper-LLC_W0QQsspagenameZl2QQtZkm
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
wrote:
made to go in open spaces with room scares me like a uniatended
candle. but here is a link with lots of boat stuf with a surch box at
the top.
http://stores.ebay.com/Great-Lakes-Skipper-LLC_W0QQsspagenameZl2QQtZkm
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
wrote:
>http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/icefishing_s
>
> Try searching on "ice fishing stoves". I guess it's true that if
> anything is called "marine", the price goes way up.
>
> Here's a nice ice fishing stove for $109.
>http://goodoutdoors.theshoppe.com/ice_fishing_shack_wood_stove.html
>
> For welders in the group here's some plans:
>
> tove.aspin
>
> An interesting oil stove that's "mobile home approved", might work
> a larger vessel, like a frozen Windemere.
>http://kumastoves.com/oil_stoves.html
>
> And if you really want to deal with CO, carbon monoxice, try the
> Charheat stove, but be careful, it's meant for outdoor use only!
>http://www.charheat.com/
>
> Bruce Hector
>http://www.brucesboats.com
It can be difficult (read "almost impossible") to find
a woodstove small enough for a little living space. There
are some beautiful little stoves that are made for boats,
but they are quite expensive. Here are some links that
you might enjoy:http://www.marinestove.com/futurestoves.htm
I had a chance, a few years ago, to buy a little two hole
cast iron box stove, that was only about 10" tall and
about 15" long, for $100. I have regretted not
getting it, many times since.
Here is a fairly small economical stove with a glass front:
http://tinyurl.com/47h2c
Here is a very low cost tiny stove, that is US
made in the next town over from where I live.http://tinyurl.com/5mr4g
http://tinyurl.com/6ynxc
Here is a simple cast box stove.
http://tinyurl.com/667ov
and little tent stoves:
http://tinyurl.com/64tap
Here is a high quality stainless steel, solid fuel wall mounted heater:
http://www.boatownersworld.com/dickinsonmarine/newport_solid_fuel_heater
.htm
I really like this little stainless steel wall mounted heater:
http://www.bengco.co.uk/
Here are instructions to make a little solid fuel heater similar to
the Dickenson, and Bengco, but with glass front:
http://www.btinternet.com/~faymarine/Costsavers.htm
Some of us on the WoodGas yahoogroup, are working
toward very simple high efficiency woodburning stoves,
and wateer heaters, that gasify the wood. At this point,
we are not building vented stoves, but we will get there. WoodGas
exhaust is very clean, and can have most of the heat extracted.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WoodGas
-Laren Corie-
Passive Solar Building Design Since 1975
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
a woodstove small enough for a little living space. There
are some beautiful little stoves that are made for boats,
but they are quite expensive. Here are some links that
you might enjoy:http://www.marinestove.com/futurestoves.htm
I had a chance, a few years ago, to buy a little two hole
cast iron box stove, that was only about 10" tall and
about 15" long, for $100. I have regretted not
getting it, many times since.
Here is a fairly small economical stove with a glass front:
http://tinyurl.com/47h2c
Here is a very low cost tiny stove, that is US
made in the next town over from where I live.http://tinyurl.com/5mr4g
http://tinyurl.com/6ynxc
Here is a simple cast box stove.
http://tinyurl.com/667ov
and little tent stoves:
http://tinyurl.com/64tap
Here is a high quality stainless steel, solid fuel wall mounted heater:
http://www.boatownersworld.com/dickinsonmarine/newport_solid_fuel_heater
.htm
I really like this little stainless steel wall mounted heater:
http://www.bengco.co.uk/
Here are instructions to make a little solid fuel heater similar to
the Dickenson, and Bengco, but with glass front:
http://www.btinternet.com/~faymarine/Costsavers.htm
Some of us on the WoodGas yahoogroup, are working
toward very simple high efficiency woodburning stoves,
and wateer heaters, that gasify the wood. At this point,
we are not building vented stoves, but we will get there. WoodGas
exhaust is very clean, and can have most of the heat extracted.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WoodGas
-Laren Corie-
Passive Solar Building Design Since 1975
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Try searching on "ice fishing stoves". I guess it's true that if
anything is called "marine", the price goes way up.
Here's a nice ice fishing stove for $109.
http://goodoutdoors.theshoppe.com/ice_fishing_shack_wood_stove.html
For welders in the group here's some plans:
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/icefishing_s
tove.asp
An interesting oil stove that's "mobile home approved", might work in
a larger vessel, like a frozen Windemere.
http://kumastoves.com/oil_stoves.html
And if you really want to deal with CO, carbon monoxice, try the
Charheat stove, but be careful, it's meant for outdoor use only!
http://www.charheat.com/
Bruce Hector
http://www.brucesboats.com
anything is called "marine", the price goes way up.
Here's a nice ice fishing stove for $109.
http://goodoutdoors.theshoppe.com/ice_fishing_shack_wood_stove.html
For welders in the group here's some plans:
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/icefishing_s
tove.asp
An interesting oil stove that's "mobile home approved", might work in
a larger vessel, like a frozen Windemere.
http://kumastoves.com/oil_stoves.html
And if you really want to deal with CO, carbon monoxice, try the
Charheat stove, but be careful, it's meant for outdoor use only!
http://www.charheat.com/
Bruce Hector
http://www.brucesboats.com
Not a cabin heater, but a very effective cooker for these chilly days out is a 'straw box'.
This is a box lined with several inches of straw insulation (though I suppose any kind of insulation would be fine). You start off a casserole before leaving home, and once it is simmering, pop it in the straw box and shove on the lid (also well insulated).
Keep the box somewhere safe on the boat and a few hours later, open it up for the most tender casserole immaginable. Safe, easy and delicious - just the thing for these cold winter days on the water!
Bill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
This is a box lined with several inches of straw insulation (though I suppose any kind of insulation would be fine). You start off a casserole before leaving home, and once it is simmering, pop it in the straw box and shove on the lid (also well insulated).
Keep the box somewhere safe on the boat and a few hours later, open it up for the most tender casserole immaginable. Safe, easy and delicious - just the thing for these cold winter days on the water!
Bill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jon & Wanda(Tink)" <windyjon@m...>
wrote:
charcoal in my solid fuel heater on my boat. A good, 5' long, vent
pipe gives a good draft and I've had no carbon monoxide problems.
Reed
wrote:
>Charcoal give off CO (Carbon monoxide)deadly as can be. I use
> Charcoal gives off co2
charcoal in my solid fuel heater on my boat. A good, 5' long, vent
pipe gives a good draft and I've had no carbon monoxide problems.
Reed
Charcoal gives off co2 but if you have a hotwater heater to add a
circulating pump with a thermastat and a small radiator with a fan
all piped togather it can be simple and easy. make sure the pump can
take the heat and the thermastat ,pump and fan are compatible and
walla. Wel almost that easy but not realy much harder.
Jon
circulating pump with a thermastat and a small radiator with a fan
all piped togather it can be simple and easy. make sure the pump can
take the heat and the thermastat ,pump and fan are compatible and
walla. Wel almost that easy but not realy much harder.
Jon
Reading the contest entries on Duckworks, I noted the following
device referenced as a cheap, effective source of cabin comfort.
Please where may I find out more about this fantastic invention.
Seriously, I don't want to shell out $$$$ for a "Sardine" or the
like, and I know that stoves are fairly simple in concept.
After all, we used to make our own for clubhouses as kids out of 5
gallon metal buckets turned upside down with a flap cut into the
front and a bit of stovepipe or sheet metal screwed tin cans for the
stack.
Of course, having no bottom and relying on an excavated pit, this
would not work on a boat.
What is a good idea for a cheap, lasting firebox? Perhaps Lenihan
has just the thing?
Rav,
in the deep south where it still gets bonechillingly wet and cold.
device referenced as a cheap, effective source of cabin comfort.
Please where may I find out more about this fantastic invention.
Seriously, I don't want to shell out $$$$ for a "Sardine" or the
like, and I know that stoves are fairly simple in concept.
After all, we used to make our own for clubhouses as kids out of 5
gallon metal buckets turned upside down with a flap cut into the
front and a bit of stovepipe or sheet metal screwed tin cans for the
stack.
Of course, having no bottom and relying on an excavated pit, this
would not work on a boat.
What is a good idea for a cheap, lasting firebox? Perhaps Lenihan
has just the thing?
Rav,
in the deep south where it still gets bonechillingly wet and cold.