Re: [bolger] Re: Polycarbonate blocs
> Whatever happened to the objects that Peter thought were little elfMy pivoting cleats idea was not a good one.
> boots hanging upside down from the pilothouse ceiling?
>
> Curious, Nels
What I found was that I need to do an actual 'shake out'
to know the angles, logical cleating points, and best
places to locate hooks to store lines. The pivoting
cleats turned out to have bad ergonomics.
Anyone have any thoughts on CLAM cleats vs. CAM cleats? I used clam cleats
for years and like them, but ???
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
for years and like them, but ???
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...>
> What are you using for jam cleats at the other end of those ropes.
>
> HJ.
The forward lines I just tie off on cheap nylon cleats mounted on the
ceiling of the cabin. For the sheets and
sheetlets I am useing the Duckworks cam cleats.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
boots hanging upside down from the pilothouse ceiling?
Curious, Nels
> The forward lines I just tie off on cheap nylon cleats mounted onthe
> ceiling of the cabin. For the sheets andWhatever happened to the objects that Peter thought were little elf
> sheetlets I am useing the Duckworks cam cleats.
boots hanging upside down from the pilothouse ceiling?
Curious, Nels
> What are you using for jam cleats at the other end of those ropes.The forward lines I just tie off on cheap nylon cleats mounted on the
>
> HJ.
ceiling of the cabin. For the sheets and
sheetlets I am useing the Duckworks cam cleats.
Holy cow Bruce, I missed those when I was looking at your pictures the
first time. Nice set up! Practicle, cheep and attractive. Looks a lot
better in the application they are in, compared to the $400 of harken
blocks they replace. Do up an article with photos and send it off to
Chuck at Duckworks or Woodenboat for that matter, they look good enough
to show in a glossy pub.
What are you using for jam cleats at the other end of those ropes.
HJ.
Bruce Hallman wrote:
first time. Nice set up! Practicle, cheep and attractive. Looks a lot
better in the application they are in, compared to the $400 of harken
blocks they replace. Do up an article with photos and send it off to
Chuck at Duckworks or Woodenboat for that matter, they look good enough
to show in a glossy pub.
What are you using for jam cleats at the other end of those ropes.
HJ.
Bruce Hallman wrote:
>>where can I see some pictures of these blocks? Thanks.
>>Thierry
>>
>>
>
>http://community.webshots.com/photo/121069753/121101603ZYixru
>
>And other places, poke around on that website to see.
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
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>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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I though of making a sliding cutter jig for my bandsaw, like an old
bread slicer. I wanted sheaves with a smaller diameter center hole which
is why I wanted to get away from the hole saw. Haven't done anything
about it yet, all speculation.
HJ
Bruce Hallman wrote:
bread slicer. I wanted sheaves with a smaller diameter center hole which
is why I wanted to get away from the hole saw. Haven't done anything
about it yet, all speculation.
HJ
Bruce Hallman wrote:
>>the initials are) rods in various diameters from Mc Masters-Carr and
>>slice off however many sheaves you need.
>>
>>
>
>I tried rods and had trouble. The rods were not perfectly straight,
>so holding them square enough to get both sides of the sheeve
>perfectly parallel was too hard. Also, I didn't have the wits about me
>to get the hole for the axel perfectly centered in the circle.
>
>When cutting of of flat sheet with a 'hole saw', the pilot hole comes
>out naturally in the center, and the flat sides are parallel, brain dead simple.
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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Blocks aren't usually under load for long periods of time and if they
are,they probably changed position. After all they are "running" rigging.
HJ
Gene T. wrote:
are,they probably changed position. After all they are "running" rigging.
HJ
Gene T. wrote:
>Now that I think about it. I read that UHMW creeps.
>It has a little bit of the quality of a liquid. Would
>this be an issue in a block under tension in one
>position for a long time. It may distort and no
>longer function.
>
>Gene T.
>
>--- Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>>Instead of cutting board sheaves you can buy rods of
>>UHMWD (or whatever
>>the initials are) rods in various diameters from Mc
>>Masters-Carr and
>>slice off however many sheaves you need.
>>
>>http://www.mcmaster.com/
>>
>>HJ
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>Yahoo! Groups Links
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>
> where can I see some pictures of these blocks? Thanks.http://community.webshots.com/photo/121069753/121101603ZYixru
> Thierry
And other places, poke around on that website to see.
> the initials are) rods in various diameters from Mc Masters-Carr andI tried rods and had trouble. The rods were not perfectly straight,
> slice off however many sheaves you need.
so holding them square enough to get both sides of the sheeve
perfectly parallel was too hard. Also, I didn't have the wits about me
to get the hole for the axel perfectly centered in the circle.
When cutting of of flat sheet with a 'hole saw', the pilot hole comes
out naturally in the center, and the flat sides are parallel, brain dead simple.
Now that I think about it. I read that UHMW creeps.
It has a little bit of the quality of a liquid. Would
this be an issue in a block under tension in one
position for a long time. It may distort and no
longer function.
Gene T.
--- Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
It has a little bit of the quality of a liquid. Would
this be an issue in a block under tension in one
position for a long time. It may distort and no
longer function.
Gene T.
--- Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
> Instead of cutting board sheaves you can buy rods of
> UHMWD (or whatever
> the initials are) rods in various diameters from Mc
> Masters-Carr and
> slice off however many sheaves you need.
>
>http://www.mcmaster.com/
>
> HJ
>
UHMW - Ultra High Molecular Weight
HDPE - High Density Polyethelene
LDPE - Low Densith Polyethelene
PP - Poly Propolyene
PETE - This is one I can't remember
My love for recycling makes me read the bottom of
plastic bottles and wonder!
Gene T.
--- Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
HDPE - High Density Polyethelene
LDPE - Low Densith Polyethelene
PP - Poly Propolyene
PETE - This is one I can't remember
My love for recycling makes me read the bottom of
plastic bottles and wonder!
Gene T.
--- Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>http://us.click.yahoo.com/9hSKEA/fV0JAA/Y3ZIAA/_0TolB/TM
> Instead of cutting board sheaves you can buy rods of
> UHMWD (or whatever
> the initials are) rods in various diameters from Mc
> Masters-Carr and
> slice off however many sheaves you need.
>
>http://www.mcmaster.com/
>
> HJ
>
> marilyn lipsey wrote:
>
> >I used scraps of 1/8" of polycarbonate
> >
> >Thanks Bruce, that's a great idea. I have used 1/8"
> aluminum with my cutting
> >board sheaves, and sprung for Stainless bolts. I
> got the idea from Brent
> >Swain, who designs and builds folded steel boats
> (31-36') in Canada. Thats
> >obviously out of the"micro-cruising" size range,
> but the information he
> >provides about building your own blocks, windlass,
> and self-steering will
> >save a builder 100 times the cost of the book (
> about 30 dollars CDN, as I
> >remember).
> >Kudos again on your success. David
> >David
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed,
> thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts,
> and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "flex420us" <flex420us@y...> wrote:
wonderful little plywood jewel that surely can't weigh all that
much.Do you guys at least take the cooler full of beer/ice and
sleeping crew out of the boat before hauling her onto the beach? :-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan....
>boat.
> howdy,
> I'm presently building a Teal, and was thinking of adding a metal
> shoe to the bottom to help deal with wear/tear from beaching the
> Any thoughts on where i can get the metal and if it's worth thetime
> to put it on?Geewiz you guys are rough on your boats! The Teal is such a
> thanks
wonderful little plywood jewel that surely can't weigh all that
much.Do you guys at least take the cooler full of beer/ice and
sleeping crew out of the boat before hauling her onto the beach? :-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan....
Hi Harry, thanks for the info. Cutting board sheaves apealed to me because I
could have any diameter I needed by changing the hole saw in my drill press.
Then bolt them on threaded rod, put the piece of rod in the drill press,
like a vertical lathe, and form the hollow with a rasp. Brent Swain even
builds his bow anchor rollers this way, with staggered diameters smoothed
into a "V".
Thanks again for the link. David
could have any diameter I needed by changing the hole saw in my drill press.
Then bolt them on threaded rod, put the piece of rod in the drill press,
like a vertical lathe, and form the hollow with a rasp. Brent Swain even
builds his bow anchor rollers this way, with staggered diameters smoothed
into a "V".
Thanks again for the link. David
Instead of cutting board sheaves you can buy rods of UHMWD (or whatever
the initials are) rods in various diameters from Mc Masters-Carr and
slice off however many sheaves you need.
http://www.mcmaster.com/
HJ
marilyn lipsey wrote:
the initials are) rods in various diameters from Mc Masters-Carr and
slice off however many sheaves you need.
http://www.mcmaster.com/
HJ
marilyn lipsey wrote:
>I used scraps of 1/8" of polycarbonate
>
>Thanks Bruce, that's a great idea. I have used 1/8" aluminum with my cutting
>board sheaves, and sprung for Stainless bolts. I got the idea from Brent
>Swain, who designs and builds folded steel boats (31-36') in Canada. Thats
>obviously out of the"micro-cruising" size range, but the information he
>provides about building your own blocks, windlass, and self-steering will
>save a builder 100 times the cost of the book ( about 30 dollars CDN, as I
>remember).
>Kudos again on your success. David
>David
>
>
>
>
Hello,
where can I see some pictures of these blocks? Thanks.
Thierry
where can I see some pictures of these blocks? Thanks.
Thierry
> I used scraps of 1/8" of polycarbonate left over from
> my windows for the block cheeks, and 5/16" galvanized
> machine bolts for the axles. With just a little practice,
> the polycarbonate can be heated (with a propane blow
> torch) to the bending point, without going to the
> blister/burn point. After cooling it hardens back,
> and is really tough and strong stuff. I had initially
> tried making the cheeks from wood, but that was inferior.
Jamestown supply sells half round in stainless and, i believe, brass.
John T
John T
----- Original Message -----
From: flex420us
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2005 7:28 AM
Subject: [bolger] shoe for a Teal?
howdy,
I'm presently building a Teal, and was thinking of adding a metal
shoe to the bottom to help deal with wear/tear from beaching the boat.
Any thoughts on where i can get the metal and if it's worth the time
to put it on?
thanks
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I used scraps of 1/8" of polycarbonate
Thanks Bruce, that's a great idea. I have used 1/8" aluminum with my cutting
board sheaves, and sprung for Stainless bolts. I got the idea from Brent
Swain, who designs and builds folded steel boats (31-36') in Canada. Thats
obviously out of the"micro-cruising" size range, but the information he
provides about building your own blocks, windlass, and self-steering will
save a builder 100 times the cost of the book ( about 30 dollars CDN, as I
remember).
Kudos again on your success. David
David
Thanks Bruce, that's a great idea. I have used 1/8" aluminum with my cutting
board sheaves, and sprung for Stainless bolts. I got the idea from Brent
Swain, who designs and builds folded steel boats (31-36') in Canada. Thats
obviously out of the"micro-cruising" size range, but the information he
provides about building your own blocks, windlass, and self-steering will
save a builder 100 times the cost of the book ( about 30 dollars CDN, as I
remember).
Kudos again on your success. David
David
> polyethlene cutting boards the same way),I used scraps of 1/8" of polycarbonate left over from
> but the bodies of your blocks
> appear to be transparent. Is that correct?
> Thanks, David L
my windows for the block cheeks, and 5/16" galvanized
machine bolts for the axles. With just a little practice,
the polycarbonate can be heated (with a propane blow
torch) to the bending point, without going to the
blister/burn point. After cooling it hardens back,
and is really tough and strong stuff. I had initially
tried making the cheeks from wood, but that was inferior.
Building about 36 pulleys and 10 fairleads was
a little bit of work, but it saved me big bucks,
plus the larger diameter pulleys I could
make myself are actually an improvement over
'store bought', in my opinion.
Home made pulleys are handy in the shop too,
as I have a lifting device to get my table saw
out of the way when not in use, etc..
Hi Bruce, Cogratulations on a job well done! I wanted to ask about your
sheaves and blocks. Looks like you used UHMW for the sheaves (I've used
polyethlene cutting boards the same way), but the bodies of your blocks
appear to be transparent. Is that correct, and if so what did you use? If
not chalk it up to my eyesight!
Thanks, David L
sheaves and blocks. Looks like you used UHMW for the sheaves (I've used
polyethlene cutting boards the same way), but the bodies of your blocks
appear to be transparent. Is that correct, and if so what did you use? If
not chalk it up to my eyesight!
Thanks, David L
> UMHW or whatever you call it, is one choice. You can buy strips atIt certainly does!
> any seller of drift boat hardware. The advantage is that it does not
> get hung up on rocks - just slips off. Also makes for easy launching
> from a trailer;-)
I buy my UHMW on EBay, very tough stuff, and useful
for more than just abrasion strips. It fabricates with
standard woodworking tools and I 'burnish' the rough edges
with a propane torch. Last night I make a "poker/hook end"
from UHMW, which I mounted to a 18ft telescoping pole
[$20 aluminum swimming pool broom handle], also, to this
I have added my variation on the BuckyF 'Jelly Fish' push oar
head. I am optimistic this will solve the close quarters
maneuvering needs of a fully enclosed Nav. cabin boat.
http://hallman.org/PushOar.jpg
A while back we had a discussion in which I mentioned an Australian kayaker
who used silicon carbide to thicken the epoxy on the
keel/runners/skegs/whatever of their boats. He said "the ramp doesn't mark
our boats. We mark the ramp." I didn't know of a source in the USA.
Inputs included:
From: "johnfader" <johnfader@...>
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2003 6:04 AM
From: "J. R. Sloan" <jr_sloan@...>
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2003 11:42 PM
From: "chodges31711" <chodges@...>
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
who used silicon carbide to thicken the epoxy on the
keel/runners/skegs/whatever of their boats. He said "the ramp doesn't mark
our boats. We mark the ramp." I didn't know of a source in the USA.
Inputs included:
From: "johnfader" <johnfader@...>
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2003 6:04 AM
> Silicon carbide abrasive is used in grinding optics. any supplier to the**********************************
> amateur telescope builders will have it in small quantities. The two
> I've bought from are Willman-Bell and Salem. Both have websites. I know
> they have it down to 60 grit, and likely Salem has it larger.
From: "J. R. Sloan" <jr_sloan@...>
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2003 11:42 PM
> Another source for carbide in larger grits and in limited quantities**********************************
> is DeepRock drilling (I assume a website is available). They
> manufacture a backyard well-drilling rig that has a rock-core cutter
> which the operator "sharpens" by brazing silicon carbide crystals
> onto a 2.5" diameter pipe. The last time I used this rig (20 yrs ago
> or so), the silicon carbide refill package was two paper bags, sent
> in the mail. I'm almost positive they would have just what you are
> looking for: carbide in the large-sand-grain size.
> JR Sloan
From: "chodges31711" <chodges@...>
> This site has a hardness scale in moh's.**********************************
>http://webmineral.com/help/Hardness.shtml
> diamond is 10, carbide is 9.5, corundum (Al. oxide) is 9.0
> Quartz (sand/ glass) is 7.0, steel is 5.5
> Most rocks are probably in the 3-5 range so if your coating is harder
> than steel (5.5) it should do the job. You would want it tough enough
> not to shatter and come off. The epoxy should bind it in a matrix and
> help that. An experiment with a small piece of wood might be
> worthwhile.
> Charles
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "flex420us" <flex420us@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2005 7:28 AM
Subject: [bolger] shoe for a Teal?
howdy,
I'm presently building a Teal, and was thinking of adding a metal
shoe to the bottom to help deal with wear/tear from beaching the boat.
Any thoughts on where i can get the metal and if it's worth the time
to put it on?
thanks
UMHW or whatever you call it, is one choice. You can buy strips at
any seller of drift boat hardware. The advantage is that it does not
get hung up on rocks - just slips off. Also makes for easy launching
from a trailer;-)
A strip of oak or other hardwood is common to use as well. Called
a "sacrificial keel shoe". Tapered sides for less wetted surface.
I would tend to stay away from anything that might rust or add too
much weight. (like a length of train rail:-) But I might drop into my
local scrap dealer and see what he has in the way of aluminum stock.
It is easy to work with. But the problem is how to fasten it so the
fasteners aren't exposed. With wood you can screw it on from the
inside together with some sealing compound, and that's it. Make the
shoe wide enough so you can stagger the screws. Like 3" wide and
taper the bottom edges to 11/2"
Cheers, Nels
any seller of drift boat hardware. The advantage is that it does not
get hung up on rocks - just slips off. Also makes for easy launching
from a trailer;-)
A strip of oak or other hardwood is common to use as well. Called
a "sacrificial keel shoe". Tapered sides for less wetted surface.
I would tend to stay away from anything that might rust or add too
much weight. (like a length of train rail:-) But I might drop into my
local scrap dealer and see what he has in the way of aluminum stock.
It is easy to work with. But the problem is how to fasten it so the
fasteners aren't exposed. With wood you can screw it on from the
inside together with some sealing compound, and that's it. Make the
shoe wide enough so you can stagger the screws. Like 3" wide and
taper the bottom edges to 11/2"
Cheers, Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "flex420us" <flex420us@y...> wrote:
>
> howdy,
> I'm presently building a Teal, and was thinking of adding a metal
> shoe to the bottom to help deal with wear/tear from beaching the
boat.
> Any thoughts on where i can get the metal and if it's worth the
time
> to put it on?
> thanks
On Feb 11, 2005, at 5:28 AM, flex420us wrote:
no big deal. It's just recycled milk cartons.
hal
>On my Teal I used 2x2 trex. If it gets skinned up or worn down
>
> howdy,
> I'm presently building a Teal, and was thinking of adding a metal
> shoe to the bottom to help deal with wear/tear from beaching the boat.
> Any thoughts on where i can get the metal and if it's worth the time
> to put it on?
> thanks
no big deal. It's just recycled milk cartons.
hal
howdy,
I'm presently building a Teal, and was thinking of adding a metal
shoe to the bottom to help deal with wear/tear from beaching the boat.
Any thoughts on where i can get the metal and if it's worth the time
to put it on?
thanks
I'm presently building a Teal, and was thinking of adding a metal
shoe to the bottom to help deal with wear/tear from beaching the boat.
Any thoughts on where i can get the metal and if it's worth the time
to put it on?
thanks