Re: [bolger] Re; Bolger electric boat plans

Stan,

Thanks for the interesting comments re: Ernie's electric conversion.

But here: Isn't the simplest and cheapest just to hang one of those nifty
MinnKota or Ray Electric outboards off the transom and wire it to whatever
battery bank you can afford?

I have one for my Windsprint hull, though I confess I haven't used it
(Portland, OR rain, rain; sewer overflow; three or four days to flush the
biohazard away; more rain!).

I'm really itching to try it. Hung from the gunn'l aft, the shaft reaches down
to put the prop right under the double ended hull. Just one 115 a/h battery
used at half power figures to yield most of hull speed for a nice afternoon's
range
in smooth water.

The little one I have won't make your MicroTrawler plane, of course, but I
don't see how you could do that very far electrically with the gear it could
carry
in any case.

What am I missing?

Mark

Stan Muller wrote:

> > You may be interested in drawings of an electric inboard conversion to
the
> > very nice Catfish Beach Cruiser at
> >
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/ernies_world/catfish.htm
> >
>
> Hi,
> I saw your posting on Bolger egroup, and checked out your web site on
> your electric boat conversion. Since I have been going through the same
> set of problems powering my Micro, I thought I'd share some of my ideas
> with you in hopes they may be of help.
> > 6) Cheap and simple are the watchwords here.
> Don't overlook the simplest way, i.e.; use the bottom half of a used
> outboard motor. With that, all the hard work is already done for you. no
> worry about water seals, bearings or a way to lubricate the drive. Just
> mount the electric motor where the power head was, couple it to the
> shaft going down to the foot, with a flex coupling made out of heavy
> heater hose, and your ready to go.
> Depending upon the diameter of your electric motor, another idea is
> to mount the motor in a sealed can, into the keel and mount the prop
> onto the motor shaft.
> > 5) I keep saying belts and pulleys. Would chain and gears provide
> any advantage?
> Belts are fine except where you drop down to the prop, there you need
> chain, since there is no practical way of tightening, or changing a
> belt. On my design, I used a 3" by 4 1/2" rectangular tubing, with
> sealed bearings top and bottom and an oil bath inside the tube to keep
> the chain lubricated.
> How did my design turn out? I changed my mind after finding out how
> much all the sealed bearings, and cost for machining the shafts, would
> be, and have since gone over to the idea of installing a stern paddle
> wheel. In fact at the moment, I am looking longingly at my gas powered
> golf cart with the idea of using the entire drive train from it and
> replacing the tires with a pair of paddle wheels.
> All the best, Stan of the Micro Tugger, Snow Goose



Stan Muller wrote:

> > You may be interested in drawings of an electric inboard conversion to the
> > very nice Catfish Beach Cruiser at
> >http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/ernies_world/catfish.htm
> >
>
> Hi,
> I saw your posting on Bolger egroup, and checked out your web site on
> your electric boat conversion. Since I have been going through the same
> set of problems powering my Micro, I thought I'd share some of my ideas
> with you in hopes they may be of help.
> > 6) Cheap and simple are the watchwords here.
> Don't overlook the simplest way, i.e.; use the bottom half of a used
> outboard motor. With that, all the hard work is already done for you. no
> worry about water seals, bearings or a way to lubricate the drive. Just
> mount the electric motor where the power head was, couple it to the
> shaft going down to the foot, with a flex coupling made out of heavy
> heater hose, and your ready to go.
> Depending upon the diameter of your electric motor, another idea is
> to mount the motor in a sealed can, into the keel and mount the prop
> onto the motor shaft.
> > 5) I keep saying belts and pulleys. Would chain and gears provide
> any advantage?
> Belts are fine except where you drop down to the prop, there you need
> chain, since there is no practical way of tightening, or changing a
> belt. On my design, I used a 3" by 4 1/2" rectangular tubing, with
> sealed bearings top and bottom and an oil bath inside the tube to keep
> the chain lubricated.
> How did my design turn out? I changed my mind after finding out how
> much all the sealed bearings, and cost for machining the shafts, would
> be, and have since gone over to the idea of installing a stern paddle
> wheel. In fact at the moment, I am looking longingly at my gas powered
> golf cart with the idea of using the entire drive train from it and
> replacing the tires with a pair of paddle wheels.
> All the best, Stan of the Micro Tugger, Snow Goose
>
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