Re: Fibre-glass technique question

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "robert pyfrom" <neetra@c...> wrote:

> BTW this is supposed to be a bare bones group. I pay $18.00 gal.

for resin.

> What is the cost for epoxy? Ask Dynamite Payson what he uses.

Depends on which brand of epoxy......more importantly however,is
that epoxy is a glue and 99%(or thereabouts)waterproof.Polyester
resin is not a glue and not nearly as"waterproof" as epoxy.
And where does it say this is a "bare bones group" anyway? ;-)

Sincerely,

Peter Lenihan........

BTW this is supposed to be a bare bones group. I pay $18.00 gal. for resin.
What is the cost for epoxy? Ask Dynamite Payson what he uses.
Bob

----- Original Message -----
From: "robert pyfrom" <neetra@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 07, 2005 9:29 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Fibre-glass technique question

>
> Usually I work with polyester and always prime surface with base coat of
> laminating resin "no wax" before laying on fabric. Then wet surface to be
> covered and lay up fabric dry and then slosh on resin and roll with ribbed
> roller until I feel there are no more bubbles. Hope this helps.
> Bob
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "gbship" <gbship@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, March 07, 2005 9:13 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Fibre-glass technique question
>
>
> >
> >
> > I've done both and prefer the dry method with squeegee application.
> > The only trick to to watch for dry spots as some of the epoxy goes
> > through the cloth and into the wood. Not hard to see, or to spot if
> > there's too much epoxy leading to cloth "float." Never had any come
> > off on the 3 boats I've done this way. It's hard to do the wet method
> > unless you have a helper, or are only doing a small area.
> >
> > Gary
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "camalexander2002" <calex@e...> wrote:
> > >
> > > I have resumed work on my Bantam stretch after a medical lay-off,
> > > and I have a reasonably large amount of fibre-glassing to do. I am
> > > going to cover all external surfaces with 6 oz cloth as "zipper"
> > > prevention. I have always used the dry cloth method - laying
> > > the glass on the dry wood surface, then squee-geeing the expoxy
> > into
> > > the cloth - and been successful in the past. Reading has show that
> > > others of great experience, Renn Tolman for example, uses the wet
> > > method - rolling on a wet coat of epoxy, rolling the cloth onto the
> > > wet surface, the rolling on more epoxy. I've had problems with
> > cloth
> > > float when I did not use a squeegee to pull the cloth relatively
> > > dry. I also hate to handle cloth after it has been wetted out.
> > Are
> > > these methods interchangable, or am I missing something by using
> > the
> > > dry method? Please comment, oh great group wisdom.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Usually I work with polyester and always prime surface with base coat of
laminating resin "no wax" before laying on fabric. Then wet surface to be
covered and lay up fabric dry and then slosh on resin and roll with ribbed
roller until I feel there are no more bubbles. Hope this helps.
Bob

----- Original Message -----
From: "gbship" <gbship@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 07, 2005 9:13 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Fibre-glass technique question

>
>
> I've done both and prefer the dry method with squeegee application.
> The only trick to to watch for dry spots as some of the epoxy goes
> through the cloth and into the wood. Not hard to see, or to spot if
> there's too much epoxy leading to cloth "float." Never had any come
> off on the 3 boats I've done this way. It's hard to do the wet method
> unless you have a helper, or are only doing a small area.
>
> Gary
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "camalexander2002" <calex@e...> wrote:
> >
> > I have resumed work on my Bantam stretch after a medical lay-off,
> > and I have a reasonably large amount of fibre-glassing to do. I am
> > going to cover all external surfaces with 6 oz cloth as "zipper"
> > prevention. I have always used the dry cloth method - laying
> > the glass on the dry wood surface, then squee-geeing the expoxy
> into
> > the cloth - and been successful in the past. Reading has show that
> > others of great experience, Renn Tolman for example, uses the wet
> > method - rolling on a wet coat of epoxy, rolling the cloth onto the
> > wet surface, the rolling on more epoxy. I've had problems with
> cloth
> > float when I did not use a squeegee to pull the cloth relatively
> > dry. I also hate to handle cloth after it has been wetted out.
> Are
> > these methods interchangable, or am I missing something by using
> the
> > dry method? Please comment, oh great group wisdom.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

I've done both and prefer the dry method with squeegee application.
The only trick to to watch for dry spots as some of the epoxy goes
through the cloth and into the wood. Not hard to see, or to spot if
there's too much epoxy leading to cloth "float." Never had any come
off on the 3 boats I've done this way. It's hard to do the wet method
unless you have a helper, or are only doing a small area.

Gary

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "camalexander2002" <calex@e...> wrote:
>
> I have resumed work on my Bantam stretch after a medical lay-off,
> and I have a reasonably large amount of fibre-glassing to do. I am
> going to cover all external surfaces with 6 oz cloth as "zipper"
> prevention. I have always used the dry cloth method - laying
> the glass on the dry wood surface, then squee-geeing the expoxy
into
> the cloth - and been successful in the past. Reading has show that
> others of great experience, Renn Tolman for example, uses the wet
> method - rolling on a wet coat of epoxy, rolling the cloth onto the
> wet surface, the rolling on more epoxy. I've had problems with
cloth
> float when I did not use a squeegee to pull the cloth relatively
> dry. I also hate to handle cloth after it has been wetted out.
Are
> these methods interchangable, or am I missing something by using
the
> dry method? Please comment, oh great group wisdom.

I have read the book and as a professional boat renovater "not restorer"
have used many of his methods sucessfully. I may not agree with many of his
practices, washing hands with acetone, I still think many of his ideas are
applicable to many people using frp in any form.
Bob

----- Original Message -----
From: "Clyde Wisner" <clydewis@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 07, 2005 7:47 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Fibre-glass technique question

>
> rob Have you read this book? It involves nailing mat and cloth to
> the hull of older wooden boats and then putting on resin to preserve.
> Put glass cloth on wet or dry as you prefer, but almost set epoxy if
> working on vertical or over your head surfaces. Clyde
>
> > Might I suggest Allan H. Vaitses' excellent book on covering wooden
boats
> > with fiberglass? Most of the applications using polyester also apply to
> > epoxy.
> > Comboat
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Gary Lepak" <gnjlepak@...>
> > To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> >
> > ADVERTISEMENT
> > click here
> >
<http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=1294bu7n9/M=298184.6018725.7038619.3001176/D=gr
oups/S=1705065791:HM/EXP=1110320656/A=2593423/R=0/SIG=11el9gslf/*http://www.
netflix.com/Default?mqso=60190075>
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> >
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> >
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> > Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
> >
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

rob Have you read this book? It involves nailing mat and cloth to
the hull of older wooden boats and then putting on resin to preserve.
Put glass cloth on wet or dry as you prefer, but almost set epoxy if
working on vertical or over your head surfaces. Clyde

> Might I suggest Allan H. Vaitses' excellent book on covering wooden boats
> with fiberglass? Most of the applications using polyester also apply to
> epoxy.
> Comboat
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gary Lepak" <gnjlepak@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
>
> ADVERTISEMENT
> click here
> <http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=1294bu7n9/M=298184.6018725.7038619.3001176/D=groups/S=1705065791:HM/EXP=1110320656/A=2593423/R=0/SIG=11el9gslf/*http://www.netflix.com/Default?mqso=60190075>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> * To visit your group on the web, go to:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/
>
> * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
>
> * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Might I suggest Allan H. Vaitses' excellent book on covering wooden boats
with fiberglass? Most of the applications using polyester also apply to
epoxy.
Comboat

----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Lepak" <gnjlepak@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 07, 2005 12:56 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Fibre-glass technique question

>
> I use both wet and dry methods depending on the situation. I just glassed
> the bottom of my boat with two layers of 6 oz by first resining the ply,
> then cure and sand, then lay on the glass dry and squeegee on the resin.
> The next day sand the seams and high spots and lay on another layer dry.
>
> But on the cedar strip chines that I just glassed on the concave inside, I
> did it wet as I had to putty unevenness in the strips and didn't want to
> sand it. I resined the cedar strips then immediately puttied where I had
> too, then rolled out the precut 15" wide cloth off pieces of pvc pipe,
with
> the non-selvedge edges taped with masking tape, into the wet resin,
> saturated that with a squeegee and layed on the second layer while the
first
> was still wet. I like working dry better for ease of arranging the cloth,
> but if vertical surfaces are involved the wet resin can help hold the
glass
> in place. If I putting cloth into wet resin I just have to be very
careful
> not to pull the cloth out of shape. It almost always seems to get some
> wrinkles though, but they flatten out in the resin.
>
> So I would say I do it dry when that's easier and wet when I want to avoid
> difficult sanding work between layers. I prefer dry if I have a choice,
but
> usually resin the wood first and let it cure to avoid it sucking resin out
> of the glass and starving it when I am not looking.
>
> Gary
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

I use both wet and dry methods depending on the situation. I just glassed
the bottom of my boat with two layers of 6 oz by first resining the ply,
then cure and sand, then lay on the glass dry and squeegee on the resin.
The next day sand the seams and high spots and lay on another layer dry.

But on the cedar strip chines that I just glassed on the concave inside, I
did it wet as I had to putty unevenness in the strips and didn't want to
sand it. I resined the cedar strips then immediately puttied where I had
too, then rolled out the precut 15" wide cloth off pieces of pvc pipe, with
the non-selvedge edges taped with masking tape, into the wet resin,
saturated that with a squeegee and layed on the second layer while the first
was still wet. I like working dry better for ease of arranging the cloth,
but if vertical surfaces are involved the wet resin can help hold the glass
in place. If I putting cloth into wet resin I just have to be very careful
not to pull the cloth out of shape. It almost always seems to get some
wrinkles though, but they flatten out in the resin.

So I would say I do it dry when that's easier and wet when I want to avoid
difficult sanding work between layers. I prefer dry if I have a choice, but
usually resin the wood first and let it cure to avoid it sucking resin out
of the glass and starving it when I am not looking.

Gary

I have resumed work on my Bantam stretch after a medical lay-off,
and I have a reasonably large amount of fibre-glassing to do. I am
going to cover all external surfaces with 6 oz cloth as "zipper"
prevention. I have always used the dry cloth method - laying
the glass on the dry wood surface, then squee-geeing the expoxy into
the cloth - and been successful in the past. Reading has show that
others of great experience, Renn Tolman for example, uses the wet
method - rolling on a wet coat of epoxy, rolling the cloth onto the
wet surface, the rolling on more epoxy. I've had problems with cloth
float when I did not use a squeegee to pull the cloth relatively
dry. I also hate to handle cloth after it has been wetted out. Are
these methods interchangable, or am I missing something by using the
dry method? Please comment, oh great group wisdom.