Re: Kevlar anyone?
Roger, I sanded my mast and did the first long strip of carbon fibre
this morning. It went quite well, though it would not take the tight
turn for the top half of the mast. So I grabbed some kitchen
transparent wrap, wound tight around for most of the mast, and that
worked. Poor man's vacumn bag! I was hoping to do the whole job in 1
go, but will have to do 4 sides in turn.
DonB
this morning. It went quite well, though it would not take the tight
turn for the top half of the mast. So I grabbed some kitchen
transparent wrap, wound tight around for most of the mast, and that
worked. Poor man's vacumn bag! I was hoping to do the whole job in 1
go, but will have to do 4 sides in turn.
DonB
Worked as in sailed well, or worked as in squirmy shaped?
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "dnjost" <davidjost@...>
<snip>
> I know of a dinghy sailor who built his Cape Cod Frosty
> out of door skin material that was strapped with carbon fibre.
> It was a fast boat, but illegal. Darned thing worked.
>
> David Jost
> "spring????"
Gene,
The unidirectional carbon fibre solution was recommended to me. I
don't know the theory behind it but I would think that since the
fibres run in the same direction as the wood fibres of the mast, then
bending is still possible even although that section of the mast is
stiffer,
Cheers,
John
Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Gene T." <goldranger02-boats@y...> wrote:
The unidirectional carbon fibre solution was recommended to me. I
don't know the theory behind it but I would think that since the
fibres run in the same direction as the wood fibres of the mast, then
bending is still possible even although that section of the mast is
stiffer,
Cheers,
John
Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Gene T." <goldranger02-boats@y...> wrote:
> John,
> Why was the carbon fiber wrapped around the mast.
> That would strengthen the mast in a way to keep it
> from expanding. Is that the mode of the failure.
> Fibers layed along the length of the mast would keep
> it from stretching. I see this as fighting the
> primary stress a mast would suffer, bending stress.
> The correct answer might be both directions. Anybody
> else have thoughts on this?
>
> Gene T.
>
> --- mannthree <johnmann@i...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > --- Don,
> >
> > You may have read a recent post of mine where I
> > described how my mast
> > on my Micro snapped (near the snotter attachment)
> > leaving two pieces,
> > one over the side and the other sticking up like a
> > serated toothpick.
> > I was going to scrap it but someone recommended
> > unidirectional carbon
> > fibre to wrap around it once re-glued. Anyway, I
> > cleaned both
> > surfaces of shredded wood fibres, re-glued the mast
> > with thickened
> > eopoxy and then wrapped two layers of carbonfibre
> > around the joint
> > with epoxy and let the whole thing dry. It looks
> > very solid and I
> > believe stiffer than the original. I had no
> > problems working with the
> > carbon fibre (cutting or wetting out). Based on my
> > (limited)
> > experience I would give the unidirectional
> > carbonfibre a go,
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > John Mann
Hi Bruce, you are right that timber would be cheaper. But I just can't
face junking the premium oregon mast I put a lot of time into. I
bought today a heap of 4" unidirectional carbon tape, costing under
$2/ft. Incidentally, a lot cheaper than in USA. It comes from the
people who supply americas cup spar makers, so probably means it will
break!
I was down at Oink bringing home the mast and gaff, and the guy who
sails a 40ft foiler tri said the Navigator was sailing fast and well
last saturday, and thought she must have had a centreboard as well as
the keel, so take heart Navigator builders!
DonB
http://oink.kiwiwebhost.biz/
face junking the premium oregon mast I put a lot of time into. I
bought today a heap of 4" unidirectional carbon tape, costing under
$2/ft. Incidentally, a lot cheaper than in USA. It comes from the
people who supply americas cup spar makers, so probably means it will
break!
I was down at Oink bringing home the mast and gaff, and the guy who
sails a 40ft foiler tri said the Navigator was sailing fast and well
last saturday, and thought she must have had a centreboard as well as
the keel, so take heart Navigator builders!
DonB
http://oink.kiwiwebhost.biz/
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
> > dbaldnz <oink@w...> wrote:
> > I'm looking to stiffen/strengthen the top half of my Navigator mast.
> > Timber additions are awkward because of existing wooden chocks and
> > sail batten jaws etc.
>
> Is a new mast out of the question? Mine is rough and simple,
> made from three construction grade 20 foot 2x4's. [I picked
> through the pile for the nicer pieces.] Total cost of the
> wood was about $20. Glued them up 'box' style, and
> finished them off, hexagonal with a Skilsaw, and then
> round with a belt sander. The Kevlar tape would probably
> cost more than that.
---Don,
I used a small pair odf scissors to cut the strips I required,
Cheers,
John
PS: After you get the mast strengthened, how about some pics of Oink
sailing in 15 - 20 knots
Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dbaldnz" <oink@w...> wrote:
I used a small pair odf scissors to cut the strips I required,
Cheers,
John
PS: After you get the mast strengthened, how about some pics of Oink
sailing in 15 - 20 knots
Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dbaldnz" <oink@w...> wrote:
>
> Thanks John.
> After your post I looked around and found a company called Jamestown
> Distributors in US sell unidirectional carbon tape, which would be
> ideal for my purposes, where long lengths are probably desirable. It
> isn't cheap, but may save making a whole mast.
> Can you cut this stuff with scissors?
> DonB
> > Don,
> >
> > I forgot to say that the carbonfibre I used comes in about 1.1 metre
> > width and I bought a metre which cost about $13/m. The joint was
> > about 29" long so I cut the piece in half, painted on the unthickened
> > epoxy along this length and then wrapped (rolled) one half on. After
> > wetting the first half, I repeated the operation for the second piece
> > making sure that the seams did not overlap. The unidirectional fibres
> > run up the mast. I took the Micro out in about 15 - 20 knots over the
> > weekend and it is still in one piece (I eventually reefed)
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > John
> >
> > Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dbaldnz" <oink@w...> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi John, no I missed your article. Gosh, if that works down there at
> > > that highly stressed part of the mast, it would be even better up
> > > higher up I would think. I will certainly look at this.
> > > Thanks,
> > > DonB
> > >
> > > > --- Don,
> > > >
> > > > You may have read a recent post of mine where I described how my
> mast
> > > > on my Micro snapped (near the snotter attachment) leaving two
> pieces,
> > > > one over the side and the other sticking up like a serated
> toothpick.
> > > > I was going to scrap it but someone recommended unidirectional
> carbon
> > > > fibre to wrap around it once re-glued. Anyway, I cleaned both
> > > > surfaces of shredded wood fibres, re-glued the mast with thickened
> > > > eopoxy and then wrapped two layers of carbonfibre around the joint
> > > > with epoxy and let the whole thing dry. It looks very solid and I
> > > > believe stiffer than the original. I had no problems working
> with the
> > > > carbon fibre (cutting or wetting out). Based on my (limited)
> > > > experience I would give the unidirectional carbonfibre a go,
> > > >
> > > > Cheers,
> > > >
> > > > John Mann
> > > >
John,
Why was the carbon fiber wrapped around the mast.
That would strengthen the mast in a way to keep it
from expanding. Is that the mode of the failure.
Fibers layed along the length of the mast would keep
it from stretching. I see this as fighting the
primary stress a mast would suffer, bending stress.
The correct answer might be both directions. Anybody
else have thoughts on this?
Gene T.
--- mannthree <johnmann@...> wrote:
Why was the carbon fiber wrapped around the mast.
That would strengthen the mast in a way to keep it
from expanding. Is that the mode of the failure.
Fibers layed along the length of the mast would keep
it from stretching. I see this as fighting the
primary stress a mast would suffer, bending stress.
The correct answer might be both directions. Anybody
else have thoughts on this?
Gene T.
--- mannthree <johnmann@...> wrote:
>
>
> --- Don,
>
> You may have read a recent post of mine where I
> described how my mast
> on my Micro snapped (near the snotter attachment)
> leaving two pieces,
> one over the side and the other sticking up like a
> serated toothpick.
> I was going to scrap it but someone recommended
> unidirectional carbon
> fibre to wrap around it once re-glued. Anyway, I
> cleaned both
> surfaces of shredded wood fibres, re-glued the mast
> with thickened
> eopoxy and then wrapped two layers of carbonfibre
> around the joint
> with epoxy and let the whole thing dry. It looks
> very solid and I
> believe stiffer than the original. I had no
> problems working with the
> carbon fibre (cutting or wetting out). Based on my
> (limited)
> experience I would give the unidirectional
> carbonfibre a go,
>
> Cheers,
>
> John Mann
YES,
Unlike Kevlar, which is difficult to cut and wet out...carbon fibre
is actually pretty easy to work with. You can use it as "strapping"
on thinner veneers to increase the strength of the panel (much more
expensive than purchasing a thicker panel to begin with, but saves
weight). I know of a dinghy sailor who built his Cape Cod Frosty
out of door skin material that was strapped with carbon fibre. It
was a fast boat, but illegal. Darned thing worked.
David Jost
"spring????"
Unlike Kevlar, which is difficult to cut and wet out...carbon fibre
is actually pretty easy to work with. You can use it as "strapping"
on thinner veneers to increase the strength of the panel (much more
expensive than purchasing a thicker panel to begin with, but saves
weight). I know of a dinghy sailor who built his Cape Cod Frosty
out of door skin material that was strapped with carbon fibre. It
was a fast boat, but illegal. Darned thing worked.
David Jost
"spring????"
Thanks John.
After your post I looked around and found a company called Jamestown
Distributors in US sell unidirectional carbon tape, which would be
ideal for my purposes, where long lengths are probably desirable. It
isn't cheap, but may save making a whole mast.
Can you cut this stuff with scissors?
DonB
After your post I looked around and found a company called Jamestown
Distributors in US sell unidirectional carbon tape, which would be
ideal for my purposes, where long lengths are probably desirable. It
isn't cheap, but may save making a whole mast.
Can you cut this stuff with scissors?
DonB
> Don,mast
>
> I forgot to say that the carbonfibre I used comes in about 1.1 metre
> width and I bought a metre which cost about $13/m. The joint was
> about 29" long so I cut the piece in half, painted on the unthickened
> epoxy along this length and then wrapped (rolled) one half on. After
> wetting the first half, I repeated the operation for the second piece
> making sure that the seams did not overlap. The unidirectional fibres
> run up the mast. I took the Micro out in about 15 - 20 knots over the
> weekend and it is still in one piece (I eventually reefed)
>
> Cheers,
>
> John
>
> Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dbaldnz" <oink@w...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi John, no I missed your article. Gosh, if that works down there at
> > that highly stressed part of the mast, it would be even better up
> > higher up I would think. I will certainly look at this.
> > Thanks,
> > DonB
> >
> > > --- Don,
> > >
> > > You may have read a recent post of mine where I described how my
> > > on my Micro snapped (near the snotter attachment) leaving twopieces,
> > > one over the side and the other sticking up like a seratedtoothpick.
> > > I was going to scrap it but someone recommended unidirectionalcarbon
> > > fibre to wrap around it once re-glued. Anyway, I cleaned bothwith the
> > > surfaces of shredded wood fibres, re-glued the mast with thickened
> > > eopoxy and then wrapped two layers of carbonfibre around the joint
> > > with epoxy and let the whole thing dry. It looks very solid and I
> > > believe stiffer than the original. I had no problems working
> > > carbon fibre (cutting or wetting out). Based on my (limited)
> > > experience I would give the unidirectional carbonfibre a go,
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > >
> > > John Mann
> > >
---
Don,
I forgot to say that the carbonfibre I used comes in about 1.1 metre
width and I bought a metre which cost about $13/m. The joint was
about 29" long so I cut the piece in half, painted on the unthickened
epoxy along this length and then wrapped (rolled) one half on. After
wetting the first half, I repeated the operation for the second piece
making sure that the seams did not overlap. The unidirectional fibres
run up the mast. I took the Micro out in about 15 - 20 knots over the
weekend and it is still in one piece (I eventually reefed)
Cheers,
John
Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dbaldnz" <oink@w...> wrote:
Don,
I forgot to say that the carbonfibre I used comes in about 1.1 metre
width and I bought a metre which cost about $13/m. The joint was
about 29" long so I cut the piece in half, painted on the unthickened
epoxy along this length and then wrapped (rolled) one half on. After
wetting the first half, I repeated the operation for the second piece
making sure that the seams did not overlap. The unidirectional fibres
run up the mast. I took the Micro out in about 15 - 20 knots over the
weekend and it is still in one piece (I eventually reefed)
Cheers,
John
Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dbaldnz" <oink@w...> wrote:
>
> Hi John, no I missed your article. Gosh, if that works down there at
> that highly stressed part of the mast, it would be even better up
> higher up I would think. I will certainly look at this.
> Thanks,
> DonB
>
> > --- Don,
> >
> > You may have read a recent post of mine where I described how my mast
> > on my Micro snapped (near the snotter attachment) leaving two pieces,
> > one over the side and the other sticking up like a serated toothpick.
> > I was going to scrap it but someone recommended unidirectional carbon
> > fibre to wrap around it once re-glued. Anyway, I cleaned both
> > surfaces of shredded wood fibres, re-glued the mast with thickened
> > eopoxy and then wrapped two layers of carbonfibre around the joint
> > with epoxy and let the whole thing dry. It looks very solid and I
> > believe stiffer than the original. I had no problems working with the
> > carbon fibre (cutting or wetting out). Based on my (limited)
> > experience I would give the unidirectional carbonfibre a go,
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > John Mann
> >
Hi John, no I missed your article. Gosh, if that works down there at
that highly stressed part of the mast, it would be even better up
higher up I would think. I will certainly look at this.
Thanks,
DonB
that highly stressed part of the mast, it would be even better up
higher up I would think. I will certainly look at this.
Thanks,
DonB
> --- Don,
>
> You may have read a recent post of mine where I described how my mast
> on my Micro snapped (near the snotter attachment) leaving two pieces,
> one over the side and the other sticking up like a serated toothpick.
> I was going to scrap it but someone recommended unidirectional carbon
> fibre to wrap around it once re-glued. Anyway, I cleaned both
> surfaces of shredded wood fibres, re-glued the mast with thickened
> eopoxy and then wrapped two layers of carbonfibre around the joint
> with epoxy and let the whole thing dry. It looks very solid and I
> believe stiffer than the original. I had no problems working with the
> carbon fibre (cutting or wetting out). Based on my (limited)
> experience I would give the unidirectional carbonfibre a go,
>
> Cheers,
>
> John Mann
>
--- Don,
You may have read a recent post of mine where I described how my mast
on my Micro snapped (near the snotter attachment) leaving two pieces,
one over the side and the other sticking up like a serated toothpick.
I was going to scrap it but someone recommended unidirectional carbon
fibre to wrap around it once re-glued. Anyway, I cleaned both
surfaces of shredded wood fibres, re-glued the mast with thickened
eopoxy and then wrapped two layers of carbonfibre around the joint
with epoxy and let the whole thing dry. It looks very solid and I
believe stiffer than the original. I had no problems working with the
carbon fibre (cutting or wetting out). Based on my (limited)
experience I would give the unidirectional carbonfibre a go,
Cheers,
John Mann
Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dbaldnz" <oink@w...> wrote:
You may have read a recent post of mine where I described how my mast
on my Micro snapped (near the snotter attachment) leaving two pieces,
one over the side and the other sticking up like a serated toothpick.
I was going to scrap it but someone recommended unidirectional carbon
fibre to wrap around it once re-glued. Anyway, I cleaned both
surfaces of shredded wood fibres, re-glued the mast with thickened
eopoxy and then wrapped two layers of carbonfibre around the joint
with epoxy and let the whole thing dry. It looks very solid and I
believe stiffer than the original. I had no problems working with the
carbon fibre (cutting or wetting out). Based on my (limited)
experience I would give the unidirectional carbonfibre a go,
Cheers,
John Mann
Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dbaldnz" <oink@w...> wrote:
>
> I'm looking to stiffen/strengthen the top half of my Navigator mast.
> Timber additions are awkward because of existing wooden chocks and
> sail batten jaws etc.
> Has anyone experience of kevlar tape? Does it behave like glass tape,
> and would it take the small radius mast at the top when wetted out?
> There seem to be different types and weights, some as thick as eighth
> of an inch. I would appreciate some comment from anyone who has used
> the stuff, or knows where to look for information,
> DonB
Thanks for replies to this.
This all sounds a bit expensive and scarey to me. Actually, maybe when
I say kevlar, I mean carbon fibre, are they different, for different
purposes?
Wish I could use diamond stays, but the gaff and batten jaws need to
go up the mast, and there are no solid sections in the right place to
bolt speaders.
I just remembered I designed a house for a guy who made exotic spars
for Oracle in the last Americas Cup, so will phone him.
DonB
This all sounds a bit expensive and scarey to me. Actually, maybe when
I say kevlar, I mean carbon fibre, are they different, for different
purposes?
Wish I could use diamond stays, but the gaff and batten jaws need to
go up the mast, and there are no solid sections in the right place to
bolt speaders.
I just remembered I designed a house for a guy who made exotic spars
for Oracle in the last Americas Cup, so will phone him.
DonB
> Has anyone experience of kevlar tape?Reuel Parker is big on using Kevlar as a last-line-of-defense layer on
the *inside* of the hull, where lumpiness won't affect performance,
and using Xynole or glass on the outside. I'm thinking of trying it
on the amidships hull of my I60, possibly with insulating foam
covering the lumpy kevlar.
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
Kevlar is for abrasion and puncture resistance but won't add much to
stiffness over fiberglass.
You'd be amazed at the additional strength you'd add by jumping up another
ounce or two in weight for fiberglass. It will take more epoxy and add
weight which is where the Carbon Fiber comes in but at a big price.
Jeff
stiffness over fiberglass.
You'd be amazed at the additional strength you'd add by jumping up another
ounce or two in weight for fiberglass. It will take more epoxy and add
weight which is where the Carbon Fiber comes in but at a big price.
Jeff
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dbaldnz" <oink@w...> wrote:
> I'm looking to stiffen/strengthen the top half of my Navigator mast.
> Timber additions are awkward because of existing wooden chocks and
> sail batten jaws etc.
> Has anyone experience of kevlar tape? Does it behave like glass tape,
> and would it take the small radius mast at the top when wetted out?
> There seem to be different types and weights, some as thick as eighth
> of an inch. I would appreciate some comment from anyone who has used
> the stuff, or knows where to look for information, DonB
------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~--> Give
the gift of life to a sick child.
Support St. Jude Children's Research Hospital's 'Thanks & Giving.'
http://us.click.yahoo.com/5iY7fA/6WnJAA/Y3ZIAA/_0TolB/TM
--------------------------------------------------------------------~->
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups Links
I used to have several FG and Kevlar kayaks. The first time I needed to
repair one I thought I'd be smart and make a Kevlar patch. Big mistake!
Every other patch I made after that one was glass. That way, at least, I
could sand them smooth and paint over them. The kevlar patch looked like a
botched autopsy.
Only way to use Kevlar, IMO is inside a female mold. Better yet,
vacuum-bagged in a female mold. And even then, most builders make the
outermost layer glass.
It won't sand, it's damn hard to cut, and is all around unpleasant to deal
with.
repair one I thought I'd be smart and make a Kevlar patch. Big mistake!
Every other patch I made after that one was glass. That way, at least, I
could sand them smooth and paint over them. The kevlar patch looked like a
botched autopsy.
Only way to use Kevlar, IMO is inside a female mold. Better yet,
vacuum-bagged in a female mold. And even then, most builders make the
outermost layer glass.
It won't sand, it's damn hard to cut, and is all around unpleasant to deal
with.
----- Original Message -----
From: "pvanderwaart" <pvanderwaart@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 3:27 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Kevlar anyone?
>
>
> > Has anyone experience of kevlar tape?
>
> I can't find it in a quick look, but there was a discussion of kevlar
> on one of the boards that I follow sometime in the last couple of
> months. The gist was that it is hard to wet out, floats in the resin,
> and is impossible (literally!) to sand. Highly negative.
>
> There was even reference to a project that had been abandoned when a
> completed, strip-planked hull was unsuccessfully covered with kevlar.
> The lumpy exterior was so resistant to sanding that a year's work was
> given up for lost.
>
> Now, someone is sure to pop up and say he uses it all the time, but...
>
> If you need to go high tech, look into carbon fiber. There are
> problems with that too; I think that just cutting it to length can be
> difficult.
>
> Peter
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
It has the same modulus (stiffness) and strength as glass, just
lighter. It or some other aramid might be a little *easier to find*
in tow form (fiber bundle), in that you could possibly strip the cover
off a high-tech rope.
Whatever you use - why not saw a notch along both sides of the spar
and embed and glue some fibers up one side, over the top and down the
other. Or, even easier, why not build a small diamond stay for the
upper mast?
Gregg
lighter. It or some other aramid might be a little *easier to find*
in tow form (fiber bundle), in that you could possibly strip the cover
off a high-tech rope.
Whatever you use - why not saw a notch along both sides of the spar
and embed and glue some fibers up one side, over the top and down the
other. Or, even easier, why not build a small diamond stay for the
upper mast?
Gregg
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dbaldnz" <oink@w...> wrote:
> I'm looking to stiffen/strengthen the top half of my Navigator mast.
> Timber additions are awkward because of existing wooden chocks and
> sail batten jaws etc.
> Has anyone experience of kevlar tape? Does it behave like glass tape,
> and would it take the small radius mast at the top when wetted out?
> There seem to be different types and weights, some as thick as eighth
> of an inch. I would appreciate some comment from anyone who has used
> the stuff, or knows where to look for information,
> DonB
I used heavy Kevlar tape on the chines of my Wyoming. It does like to float
but the secret is to wet out the joint with epoxy and let it start to setup
until it's very sticky. Lay on the Kevlar tape and let it setup another
couple hours. Check on it often and press it back down if it pulls loose.
Once set, you can fill the weave and it'll stay in place just fine. Use a
slightly thickened paste to fill the weave and use your fingers to work it
down in to the weave. It's tedious but it'll be worth the effort.
Forget about sanding, it'll fuzz up something awful very difficult to smooth
out. I tried it once, after that I was careful when filling the weave so
very little sanding was needed to be done and then only on the epoxy, not
the Kevlar.
On the chines of a Bolger Square boat, it can't hurt. Especially and big
boat that might be bounced off tree stumps and what not.
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: pvanderwaart [mailto:pvanderwaart@...]
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 1:28 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Kevlar anyone?
of the boards that I follow sometime in the last couple of months. The gist
was that it is hard to wet out, floats in the resin, and is impossible
(literally!) to sand. Highly negative.
There was even reference to a project that had been abandoned when a
completed, strip-planked hull was unsuccessfully covered with kevlar.
The lumpy exterior was so resistant to sanding that a year's work was given
up for lost.
Now, someone is sure to pop up and say he uses it all the time, but...
If you need to go high tech, look into carbon fiber. There are problems with
that too; I think that just cutting it to length can be difficult.
Peter
------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~--> Help
save the life of a child. Support St. Jude Children's Research Hospital's
'Thanks & Giving.'
http://us.click.yahoo.com/6iY7fA/5WnJAA/Y3ZIAA/_0TolB/TM
--------------------------------------------------------------------~->
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups Links
but the secret is to wet out the joint with epoxy and let it start to setup
until it's very sticky. Lay on the Kevlar tape and let it setup another
couple hours. Check on it often and press it back down if it pulls loose.
Once set, you can fill the weave and it'll stay in place just fine. Use a
slightly thickened paste to fill the weave and use your fingers to work it
down in to the weave. It's tedious but it'll be worth the effort.
Forget about sanding, it'll fuzz up something awful very difficult to smooth
out. I tried it once, after that I was careful when filling the weave so
very little sanding was needed to be done and then only on the epoxy, not
the Kevlar.
On the chines of a Bolger Square boat, it can't hurt. Especially and big
boat that might be bounced off tree stumps and what not.
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: pvanderwaart [mailto:pvanderwaart@...]
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 1:28 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Kevlar anyone?
> Has anyone experience of kevlar tape?I can't find it in a quick look, but there was a discussion of kevlar on one
of the boards that I follow sometime in the last couple of months. The gist
was that it is hard to wet out, floats in the resin, and is impossible
(literally!) to sand. Highly negative.
There was even reference to a project that had been abandoned when a
completed, strip-planked hull was unsuccessfully covered with kevlar.
The lumpy exterior was so resistant to sanding that a year's work was given
up for lost.
Now, someone is sure to pop up and say he uses it all the time, but...
If you need to go high tech, look into carbon fiber. There are problems with
that too; I think that just cutting it to length can be difficult.
Peter
------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~--> Help
save the life of a child. Support St. Jude Children's Research Hospital's
'Thanks & Giving.'
http://us.click.yahoo.com/6iY7fA/5WnJAA/Y3ZIAA/_0TolB/TM
--------------------------------------------------------------------~->
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups Links
> Has anyone experience of kevlar tape?I can't find it in a quick look, but there was a discussion of kevlar
on one of the boards that I follow sometime in the last couple of
months. The gist was that it is hard to wet out, floats in the resin,
and is impossible (literally!) to sand. Highly negative.
There was even reference to a project that had been abandoned when a
completed, strip-planked hull was unsuccessfully covered with kevlar.
The lumpy exterior was so resistant to sanding that a year's work was
given up for lost.
Now, someone is sure to pop up and say he uses it all the time, but...
If you need to go high tech, look into carbon fiber. There are
problems with that too; I think that just cutting it to length can be
difficult.
Peter
> dbaldnz <oink@...> wrote:Is a new mast out of the question? Mine is rough and simple,
> I'm looking to stiffen/strengthen the top half of my Navigator mast.
> Timber additions are awkward because of existing wooden chocks and
> sail batten jaws etc.
made from three construction grade 20 foot 2x4's. [I picked
through the pile for the nicer pieces.] Total cost of the
wood was about $20. Glued them up 'box' style, and
finished them off, hexagonal with a Skilsaw, and then
round with a belt sander. The Kevlar tape would probably
cost more than that.
I'm looking to stiffen/strengthen the top half of my Navigator mast.
Timber additions are awkward because of existing wooden chocks and
sail batten jaws etc.
Has anyone experience of kevlar tape? Does it behave like glass tape,
and would it take the small radius mast at the top when wetted out?
There seem to be different types and weights, some as thick as eighth
of an inch. I would appreciate some comment from anyone who has used
the stuff, or knows where to look for information,
DonB
Timber additions are awkward because of existing wooden chocks and
sail batten jaws etc.
Has anyone experience of kevlar tape? Does it behave like glass tape,
and would it take the small radius mast at the top when wetted out?
There seem to be different types and weights, some as thick as eighth
of an inch. I would appreciate some comment from anyone who has used
the stuff, or knows where to look for information,
DonB