Re: Sheeting arrangements for mizzen

Is your transom narrow?
2 may not work so well if the sheet angles are too acute?
DonB
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "clumber03" <John.Trussell@w...> wrote:
>
> I am building a cat-yawl/ketch. The very small mizzen is for trim,
> not drive (making it a yawl) but the mast is stepped on the forward
> side of the transom, forward of the rudder(making it a ketch). I
> won't argue either way, but I need some input on how to arrange the
> sheet.
>
> We are talking about a 30 sq ft sprit boomed leg of mutton with a
> boom extending past the transom by about 6 ft. The transom is 28
> inches wide.
>
> Option 1 is to rig a boomkin with the tip of the boomkin coming to
> the end of the boom with the sail sheeted amidships. The sheet
> would run from a block on the boomkin to a block on the rudder head
> to a clam cleat on the tiller. Pros: one line; sail is more or
> less self tending on a tack or a jibe. Cons: one more stick to
> make; mild complication while rigging,; can't sheet the sail past
> amidship.
>
> Option 2 is to eliminate the boomkin and run double sheets--one to a
> block on each corner of the transom. Pros: simplified rigging and
> you can sheet the mizzen past amidship for low speed maneuvering.
> Cons: sail must be tended on every tack or jibe.
>
> Thoughts and experiences would be appreciated.
>
> John T
I've run both, I favour option 2.

Incidentaly, you don't have to tend the sheet on both tacks, once
you get them both ajusted, you can safely ignore them when tacking.
Also, you don't need to go to a block, a simple fairlead works fine,
and is much cheaper.


--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "clumber03" <John.Trussell@w...>
wrote:
>
> I am building a cat-yawl/ketch. The very small mizzen is for trim,
> not drive (making it a yawl) but the mast is stepped on the
forward
> side of the transom, forward of the rudder(making it a ketch). I
> won't argue either way, but I need some input on how to arrange
the
> sheet.
>
> We are talking about a 30 sq ft sprit boomed leg of mutton with a
> boom extending past the transom by about 6 ft. The transom is 28
> inches wide.
>
> Option 1 is to rig a boomkin with the tip of the boomkin coming to
> the end of the boom with the sail sheeted amidships. The sheet
> would run from a block on the boomkin to a block on the rudder
head
> to a clam cleat on the tiller. Pros: one line; sail is more or
> less self tending on a tack or a jibe. Cons: one more stick to
> make; mild complication while rigging,; can't sheet the sail past
> amidship.
>
> Option 2 is to eliminate the boomkin and run double sheets--one to
a
> block on each corner of the transom. Pros: simplified rigging
and
> you can sheet the mizzen past amidship for low speed maneuvering.
> Cons: sail must be tended on every tack or jibe.
>
> Thoughts and experiences would be appreciated.
>
> John T
I've run both, I favour option 2.

Incidentaly, you don't have to tend the sheet on both tacks, once
you get them both ajusted, you can safely ignore them when tacking.
Also, you don't need to go to a block, a simple fairlead works fine,
and is much cheaper.


--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "clumber03" <John.Trussell@w...>
wrote:
>
> I am building a cat-yawl/ketch. The very small mizzen is for trim,
> not drive (making it a yawl) but the mast is stepped on the
forward
> side of the transom, forward of the rudder(making it a ketch). I
> won't argue either way, but I need some input on how to arrange
the
> sheet.
>
> We are talking about a 30 sq ft sprit boomed leg of mutton with a
> boom extending past the transom by about 6 ft. The transom is 28
> inches wide.
>
> Option 1 is to rig a boomkin with the tip of the boomkin coming to
> the end of the boom with the sail sheeted amidships. The sheet
> would run from a block on the boomkin to a block on the rudder
head
> to a clam cleat on the tiller. Pros: one line; sail is more or
> less self tending on a tack or a jibe. Cons: one more stick to
> make; mild complication while rigging,; can't sheet the sail past
> amidship.
>
> Option 2 is to eliminate the boomkin and run double sheets--one to
a
> block on each corner of the transom. Pros: simplified rigging
and
> you can sheet the mizzen past amidship for low speed maneuvering.
> Cons: sail must be tended on every tack or jibe.
>
> Thoughts and experiences would be appreciated.
>
> John T
I am building a cat-yawl/ketch. The very small mizzen is for trim,
not drive (making it a yawl) but the mast is stepped on the forward
side of the transom, forward of the rudder(making it a ketch). I
won't argue either way, but I need some input on how to arrange the
sheet.

We are talking about a 30 sq ft sprit boomed leg of mutton with a
boom extending past the transom by about 6 ft. The transom is 28
inches wide.

Option 1 is to rig a boomkin with the tip of the boomkin coming to
the end of the boom with the sail sheeted amidships. The sheet
would run from a block on the boomkin to a block on the rudder head
to a clam cleat on the tiller. Pros: one line; sail is more or
less self tending on a tack or a jibe. Cons: one more stick to
make; mild complication while rigging,; can't sheet the sail past
amidship.

Option 2 is to eliminate the boomkin and run double sheets--one to a
block on each corner of the transom. Pros: simplified rigging and
you can sheet the mizzen past amidship for low speed maneuvering.
Cons: sail must be tended on every tack or jibe.

Thoughts and experiences would be appreciated.

John T