Re: [bolger] Re: Rowing boats
> Is your first lapstrake boat still on line? If so I have lost the link.http://hallman.org/bolger/spur/
> HJ
Looking at those photos I can see several things
I would have done differently. That boat took
about twice as long, and weighed almost twice
too much.
Bruce
Is your first lapstrake boat still on line? If so I have lost the link.
HJ
Bruce Hallman wrote:
Is your first lapstrake boat still on line? If so I have lost the link.
HJ
Bruce Hallman wrote:
>>One of your first decisions: tape construction or chine logs.
>>Peter
>>
>>
>
>Of course, I am recently biased, lapstrake is not out of
>the question either. Tolerance for error is greater with
>lapstrake [than the plywood panel method], and it doesn't
>really take much longer to build [if at all.]
>
>
>
> Especially if built as cartoon #5 suggests. Laps not beveled at all, just filled withI didn't really follow Cartoon #5 very close.
> glop, and run on past the end posts without cut gains. I couldn't tell from your
> inspiring photos if that's how you finished your ends -looks pretty good.
> Mark
Rather I took the plywood framing details
of Spur II and applied them to the general hull shape
of Cartoon #5. My frames are from 1/4" luaun.
I find that strakes of 1/8" luaun are actually kind of amazing,
in that the remarkable weakness of the sheet plywood
[you can tear it with your bare hands] magically stiffens
up and becomes rigid when bent into 3D curves. A combo
of 'arch effect' and 'shell effect' I think. In the end you have
a light weight and reasonable strong hull. Dropping it from
the roof of your car might hurt it, but it is strong enough
for use as your 'light weight rowboat' I feel, [but not as your
'heavy duty Work Boat'.]
I filled the gaps in the strakes using a paper pastry cone
to apply the epoxy glop. A mix of 3 ounces of epoxy and about
1 tbs of silica, about 1 tsp of milled glass fibers bulked out
with about 6 ounces of glass bubbles to make a toothpaste
consistency putty. The filled strake gaps serve as a structural
stringer of sorts, I feel, spanning from frame to frame.
There is no 'meat' in an 1/8" strake for tapering or 'cut gains',
and rather I just glopped in the gaps and 'sharpened/shaped' the
stem and stern posts ends with my belt sander to be true and sharp.
I also squirted in a fillet of epoxy paste on either side of the
stem and stern post making an after-the-fact 'rabit',
so to speak.
Especially if built as cartoon #5 suggests. Laps not beveled at all, just filled with
glop, and run on past the end posts without cut gains. I couldn't tell from your
inspiring photos if that's how you finished your ends -looks pretty good.
Mark
Bruce Hallman wrote:
glop, and run on past the end posts without cut gains. I couldn't tell from your
inspiring photos if that's how you finished your ends -looks pretty good.
Mark
Bruce Hallman wrote:
> Of course, I am recently biased, lapstrake is not out of
> the question either. Tolerance for error is greater with
> lapstrake [than the plywood panel method], and it doesn't
> really take much longer to build [if at all.]
I would love to see someone do a "comparison test" of pulling boats which
could be built from 4 or even 5 sheets of plywood. Say a Bolger Light Dory,
an Atkins Ration, a Michalak RB 42, a Wellsford SeaGull Skiff, an Oughtred
Elf, and a Ducktrap Wherry.
We are indeed fortunate to have so many choices.
John T
We are indeed fortunate to have
could be built from 4 or even 5 sheets of plywood. Say a Bolger Light Dory,
an Atkins Ration, a Michalak RB 42, a Wellsford SeaGull Skiff, an Oughtred
Elf, and a Ducktrap Wherry.
We are indeed fortunate to have so many choices.
John T
We are indeed fortunate to have
----- Original Message -----
From: "Howard Stephenson" <stephensonhw@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2005 3:43 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Rowing boats
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
>
> > Of course, I am recently biased, lapstrake is not out of
> > the question either. Tolerance for error is greater with
> > lapstrake [than the plywood panel method], and it doesn't
> > really take much longer to build [if at all.]
>
> ... and Bruce has made available a nice series of construction pictures.
>
> Howard
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
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> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
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> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
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>
>
>
>
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--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
Howard
> Of course, I am recently biased, lapstrake is not out of... and Bruce has made available a nice series of construction pictures.
> the question either. Tolerance for error is greater with
> lapstrake [than the plywood panel method], and it doesn't
> really take much longer to build [if at all.]
Howard
> One of your first decisions: tape construction or chine logs.Of course, I am recently biased, lapstrake is not out of
> Peter
the question either. Tolerance for error is greater with
lapstrake [than the plywood panel method], and it doesn't
really take much longer to build [if at all.]
> Bolger: try June Bug, Teal, Pointy Skiff, all at Instantboats.One of your first decisions: tape construction or chine logs. If you
want to go with S&G, then look at Cartopper and Gypsy as well. Note:
they were designed as rowing/sailing boats and if your builder wants
to try serious rowing, he may want something slimmer. Same for
Featherwind/$200 sailboat. The "canoe" at instantboats is a very slim
S&G boat.
Peter
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@h...>
wrote: "I think it may be John Wellfords(sp) rowing dory which Bruce
calls his Twisted Seagull,that you are thinking of."
Close, it Jihn Welsford's 16' Seagull Skiff, not a dory.
John does a slightly smalled version called Setnet Skiff, at 14'.
Both row very well and have lots of built in floatation. Perfext for a
young man. Also both would be re-boardable in deep water as long as you
keep a 10 foot line on one of the stern cleats to make a boarding loop
from n an emerg. Dory's are practically impossible to reboard and bail
out,
Plans available from Duckworks.
While you're perusing John's offerings there, take a look at Jim
Michalaks many rowboats.
Bolger: try June Bug, Teal, Pointy Skiff, all at Instantboats.
Good luck and have fun. All are easier and simpler than the Gull to
build.
Bruce Hector
wrote: "I think it may be John Wellfords(sp) rowing dory which Bruce
calls his Twisted Seagull,that you are thinking of."
Close, it Jihn Welsford's 16' Seagull Skiff, not a dory.
John does a slightly smalled version called Setnet Skiff, at 14'.
Both row very well and have lots of built in floatation. Perfext for a
young man. Also both would be re-boardable in deep water as long as you
keep a 10 foot line on one of the stern cleats to make a boarding loop
from n an emerg. Dory's are practically impossible to reboard and bail
out,
Plans available from Duckworks.
While you're perusing John's offerings there, take a look at Jim
Michalaks many rowboats.
Bolger: try June Bug, Teal, Pointy Skiff, all at Instantboats.
Good luck and have fun. All are easier and simpler than the Gull to
build.
Bruce Hector
>so
> Bruce Hector; what was the name of the rowboat you built and are
> happy with?Hi Harry,
>
> HJ
I ain't le Mouton Noir de Kingston(he is probably still
sleeping off the effects of a case of Maudit I gave him on his
latest visit to my "shop" :-D) but will le Mouton Gris de Montreal
do? Big Bad Bruce has done a few rowboats but I think it may be John
Wellfords(sp) rowing dory which Bruce calls his Twisted Seagull,that
you are thinking of. I took two friends out for a nice row with her
in the St.Lawrence Seaway when she was still very new and young.We
were all impressed with her handling and I with the ease it took to
lug the three of us over the water.Hmmmmm,that does not sound right.
I should say "the ease it took to send us gliding swiftly over
stilled waters".Much better!
I trust Le Baron de Kingston will set me straight if I have
erred and provide you with a fuller accounting of this lovely
designs' performance and suitability for your up-coming"project".I
hope that kid knows how lucky he is to have you involved!
Sincerely,
Peter"le Mouton Gris de Montreal"Lenihan,young apprentice to that
raving madman up-stream from moi,sipper of Port,guzzler of
beer,oogler of wimmins and all around bum from along the recently
sweltering banks of the St.Lawrence Seaway..........
I have had a young man ask me to be his adviser for a school project for
his 8th grade project next year. He is interested in a rowing boat, we
will have about 5 months to get it done. I have the molds for the gull
light dory, but having participated in the making of three of them I
would like to try something else. He likes to fish and I am not so sure
that the gull is the the best thing for bringing a 30 lb fish over the
side, especially for a 13 year old out by himself.
Looking for recommendations.
Bruce Hector; what was the name of the rowboat you built and are so
happy with?
HJ
his 8th grade project next year. He is interested in a rowing boat, we
will have about 5 months to get it done. I have the molds for the gull
light dory, but having participated in the making of three of them I
would like to try something else. He likes to fish and I am not so sure
that the gull is the the best thing for bringing a 30 lb fish over the
side, especially for a 13 year old out by himself.
Looking for recommendations.
Bruce Hector; what was the name of the rowboat you built and are so
happy with?
HJ
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "wmrpage" <wmrpage@a...> wrote:
Just for the fun of it,save those screws for something else and
get a hold of a small(100 screws)box of wood floor screws with
Robertson drive(square drive).These screws are cheap,really drive
into most woods without a pilot hole except in oak,teak,purple heart
etc... and with the right sized Roberston screw driver, will not be
stripped at the head.Pull your screws as sonn as is practical before
the epoxy gets a solid grip on them(within 12 to 24 hours depending
on temps. and epoxy).If the screws however end up longer in epoxy
and you experience some difficulty withdrawing them,simply hold the
pointy end of a soldering iron against the screw head for about 50
seconds and Presto! out they come. No greasy kids stuff here :-D
This has worked so for for me and the several thousand screws
driven and withdrawn from Windermere.
Good luck!
Peter Lenihan, who also highly recommends that Bill not forget to
turn the soldering iron to ON before holding tip to
screw.............
> TKhe screws will all have to be removed after the epoxy cures.This may
> be 100 screws or more. I'd like withdrawing these temporary screwsto
> be as easy as driving them. Any suggestions of how to give a largeBill,
> number of screws a "non-stick" coating?
>
> Ciao for Niao,
> Bill in MN
Just for the fun of it,save those screws for something else and
get a hold of a small(100 screws)box of wood floor screws with
Robertson drive(square drive).These screws are cheap,really drive
into most woods without a pilot hole except in oak,teak,purple heart
etc... and with the right sized Roberston screw driver, will not be
stripped at the head.Pull your screws as sonn as is practical before
the epoxy gets a solid grip on them(within 12 to 24 hours depending
on temps. and epoxy).If the screws however end up longer in epoxy
and you experience some difficulty withdrawing them,simply hold the
pointy end of a soldering iron against the screw head for about 50
seconds and Presto! out they come. No greasy kids stuff here :-D
This has worked so for for me and the several thousand screws
driven and withdrawn from Windermere.
Good luck!
Peter Lenihan, who also highly recommends that Bill not forget to
turn the soldering iron to ON before holding tip to
screw.............
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Gary Lepak" <gnjlepak@o...> wrote: "if
you coat screws with vaseline or wax or whatever you take a chance on
getting it on some place that you will want to epoxy later and not get
a bond."
A big point, all tghese screw holes should later be filled with
thickened bog, and the glop won't stick to oil, wax, soap, etc.
Be careful.
If you're driving screws that are to stay in, rolling them across an
old bar of soap works well. Neater too, as you're dealing with a solid,
not a source of more gloppy spills.
Bruce Hector
you coat screws with vaseline or wax or whatever you take a chance on
getting it on some place that you will want to epoxy later and not get
a bond."
A big point, all tghese screw holes should later be filled with
thickened bog, and the glop won't stick to oil, wax, soap, etc.
Be careful.
If you're driving screws that are to stay in, rolling them across an
old bar of soap works well. Neater too, as you're dealing with a solid,
not a source of more gloppy spills.
Bruce Hector
Hi Bill,
I wouldn't coat them. I've never had trouble getting screws used to hold
ply in place to break loose. I have used phillips in the past but I am now
using hex head sheet metal screws as they are almost impossible to strip
with a nut driver, as opposed to phillips which can be a bitch to get out
once they are stripped, and if you get epoxy in the head you have to pick it
out to get the bit in. You get a better grip with the hex head and they
also have a straight slot which comes in handy sometimes if the screw has
been driven in so far that the nut driver has a hard time getting it
started. They are reusable many more times than phillips and a whole lot
less frustrating to work with. On my present project I have probably used
each of a hundred screws at least 10 times. I haven't had to throw any away
as I used to do with phillips when they stripped.
I'm using 3/4" #8's for 1/4" ply. I also use regular decking screws where
more length is required.
Also if you coat screws with vaseline or wax or whatever you take a chance
on getting it on some place that you will want to epoxy later and not get a
bond.
Gary Lepak
I wouldn't coat them. I've never had trouble getting screws used to hold
ply in place to break loose. I have used phillips in the past but I am now
using hex head sheet metal screws as they are almost impossible to strip
with a nut driver, as opposed to phillips which can be a bitch to get out
once they are stripped, and if you get epoxy in the head you have to pick it
out to get the bit in. You get a better grip with the hex head and they
also have a straight slot which comes in handy sometimes if the screw has
been driven in so far that the nut driver has a hard time getting it
started. They are reusable many more times than phillips and a whole lot
less frustrating to work with. On my present project I have probably used
each of a hundred screws at least 10 times. I haven't had to throw any away
as I used to do with phillips when they stripped.
I'm using 3/4" #8's for 1/4" ply. I also use regular decking screws where
more length is required.
Also if you coat screws with vaseline or wax or whatever you take a chance
on getting it on some place that you will want to epoxy later and not get a
bond.
Gary Lepak
----- Original Message -----
From: "wmrpage" <wmrpage@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, May 06, 2005 9:57 PM
Subject: [bolger] Non-Stick Screw Coating Inquiry
> Hi,Y'all:
>
> For my current project, I'm planning to use nickel-plated (I think),pan-
> headed, Phillip's drive, self-tapping sheet metal screws to hold the
> plywood in place while waiting for the West brand epoxy+filler to cure.
> TKhe screws will all have to be removed after the epoxy cures. This may
> be 100 screws or more. I'd like withdrawing these temporary screws to
> be as easy as driving them. Any suggestions of how to give a large
> number of screws a "non-stick" coating?
>
> Ciao for Niao,
> Bill in MN
>
> For my current project, I'm planning to use nickel-plated (I think),pan-If I'm right in thinking that a coating of vaseline would provide the
> headed, Phillip's drive, self-tapping sheet metal screws to hold the
> plywood in place while waiting for the West brand epoxy+filler to cure.
> TKhe screws will all have to be removed after the epoxy cures. This may
> be 100 screws or more. I'd like withdrawing these temporary screws to
> be as easy as driving them. Any suggestions of how to give a large
> number of screws a "non-stick" coating?
non-stick property that you require, then just keeping a large jar next
to you to dip each screw into before you drive it would do the job.
Dan
Hi,Y'all:
For my current project, I'm planning to use nickel-plated (I think),pan-
headed, Phillip's drive, self-tapping sheet metal screws to hold the
plywood in place while waiting for the West brand epoxy+filler to cure.
TKhe screws will all have to be removed after the epoxy cures. This may
be 100 screws or more. I'd like withdrawing these temporary screws to
be as easy as driving them. Any suggestions of how to give a large
number of screws a "non-stick" coating?
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
For my current project, I'm planning to use nickel-plated (I think),pan-
headed, Phillip's drive, self-tapping sheet metal screws to hold the
plywood in place while waiting for the West brand epoxy+filler to cure.
TKhe screws will all have to be removed after the epoxy cures. This may
be 100 screws or more. I'd like withdrawing these temporary screws to
be as easy as driving them. Any suggestions of how to give a large
number of screws a "non-stick" coating?
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN