Re: [bolger] Non stick screws
When I built my "Swifty" from a kit I used just plain stainless steel wood
screws to hold the planks together. The next day they came out with no problem.
If left two days they became part of the boat. Then learned later if you use
ordinary screws and epoxy (I was using "West System") you can heat the
screws and remove them. (Hold a soldering iron or soldering gun to the head for a
few minutes). Then you can glop up the hole that is left.
I had trouble also with Payson joints on ply till I learned that epoxy
really takes a few days to properly set up. Here in the desert and having to work
on a driveway in the sun I use the extra slow (High temperature) catalyst.
I also found that nature does not like boats. The resin and stuff was
delivered and it started to cloud up and rain so the goop is still setting in the
cans. (We have broken the all time record here for rain and cold since weather
records were kept here, 1800 and something.)
Has anyone else noted that Bolger/Payson plans and Michalick plans use the
opposite notation for beveling? Bolger shows the largest dimension while
Michalick show the small part of the bevel.
On my new car topper will use Paysons method and bevel before adding
pre-beveled stiffeners. On this boat the only frame that would make any difference
would be the transom and Frame A which has to bear the mast step and partner.
On other frames I will use square cut temporary stiffeners with temp nails or
drywall screws not removing the temporary stiffeners till the outside seams
are set up and glass taped. (and cured for a couple of days at least.)
John Meacham
High desert of California
Bolger Cartopper.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
screws to hold the planks together. The next day they came out with no problem.
If left two days they became part of the boat. Then learned later if you use
ordinary screws and epoxy (I was using "West System") you can heat the
screws and remove them. (Hold a soldering iron or soldering gun to the head for a
few minutes). Then you can glop up the hole that is left.
I had trouble also with Payson joints on ply till I learned that epoxy
really takes a few days to properly set up. Here in the desert and having to work
on a driveway in the sun I use the extra slow (High temperature) catalyst.
I also found that nature does not like boats. The resin and stuff was
delivered and it started to cloud up and rain so the goop is still setting in the
cans. (We have broken the all time record here for rain and cold since weather
records were kept here, 1800 and something.)
Has anyone else noted that Bolger/Payson plans and Michalick plans use the
opposite notation for beveling? Bolger shows the largest dimension while
Michalick show the small part of the bevel.
On my new car topper will use Paysons method and bevel before adding
pre-beveled stiffeners. On this boat the only frame that would make any difference
would be the transom and Frame A which has to bear the mast step and partner.
On other frames I will use square cut temporary stiffeners with temp nails or
drywall screws not removing the temporary stiffeners till the outside seams
are set up and glass taped. (and cured for a couple of days at least.)
John Meacham
High desert of California
Bolger Cartopper.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]