Re: Redoing Brightside
Good advice. I'm old enough to recall sealing everything before
painting - and often it was a thinned topcoat. As a rule I do this
with my oil based paints (big fan of Tremclad) and it's worked well.
I went back where I bought it and their advice was pretty well what
you said. Wish I'd known this in the first place. Lesson learned. IIRC
the new can I saw at the marine store DID mention sealer but my own
can left over from the original job does not.
Interesting. I did a highway sign (4' x 6' MDO) a year ago that's
south facing and receives salt blast mist in the winter. Used a top
end gloss acrylic latex with related sealer/primer (Sherman Williams?)
as per directions from a professional sign maker. Checked it out last
week and expected to see some touch up areas. Nothing, nada, zilch.
Even the bird crap acid hadn't made a dent in it. And it's almost as
glossy and hard as the Brightside.
I'm heading into another bare wood project and have had the local
paint shop pro recommend one of the Zinssler (sp?) sealer/primers
under a top brand acrylic latex - 2 coats each.
Bryant - who sees a lot of sanding/sealing/priming/painting in his future
painting - and often it was a thinned topcoat. As a rule I do this
with my oil based paints (big fan of Tremclad) and it's worked well.
I went back where I bought it and their advice was pretty well what
you said. Wish I'd known this in the first place. Lesson learned. IIRC
the new can I saw at the marine store DID mention sealer but my own
can left over from the original job does not.
Interesting. I did a highway sign (4' x 6' MDO) a year ago that's
south facing and receives salt blast mist in the winter. Used a top
end gloss acrylic latex with related sealer/primer (Sherman Williams?)
as per directions from a professional sign maker. Checked it out last
week and expected to see some touch up areas. Nothing, nada, zilch.
Even the bird crap acid hadn't made a dent in it. And it's almost as
glossy and hard as the Brightside.
I'm heading into another bare wood project and have had the local
paint shop pro recommend one of the Zinssler (sp?) sealer/primers
under a top brand acrylic latex - 2 coats each.
Bryant - who sees a lot of sanding/sealing/priming/painting in his future
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, <mkriley@f...> wrote:
> I take it the brightside was applied over bare wood in spots.
> primer should never be applied over bare wood. It should get 1
thinned coat of topcoat and one unthinned coat. This will mostly
disapear into the wood
> but seals and hardens its surface. Primer consists of vehicle<liquid>
> and solids. If applied over bare wood the vehicle is sucked into the
bare wood leaving a porous matrix that will pull water from anywhere.
> the leaves were just holding water.
> Build primers should be sanded mostly off, the only primer that
should have a compete coat are the bonding primers.
> Most of the new paints are for putting a sheen on fibergalss and are
too hard
> for bare wood.
> To repair you paint make sure you sand back at least 1/2" from the
bare spots and give it some initial topcoat then primer then final coats.
> done properly it is as good as the rest. If you painted over
epoxyed areas and bare wood you are painting over apples and oranges.
> you can email off list if you need more help
>
> if the whole surface was epoxy coated I would look for incomlete mix
or amine blush or incomplete coverage of epoxy coating.
> mike
> I was a professional wooden boat guy in florida since the 70's<the
days before boats as jewelery> . This was common knowledge but seems
to have died out. Maintaining the same boats over a decade sure helps
to find out the old timers were right.
I take it the brightside was applied over bare wood in spots.
primer should never be applied over bare wood. It should get 1 thinned coat of topcoat and one unthinned coat. This will mostly disapear into the wood
but seals and hardens its surface. Primer consists of vehicle<liquid>
and solids. If applied over bare wood the vehicle is sucked into the bare wood leaving a porous matrix that will pull water from anywhere.
the leaves were just holding water.
Build primers should be sanded mostly off, the only primer that should have a compete coat are the bonding primers.
Most of the new paints are for putting a sheen on fibergalss and are too hard
for bare wood.
To repair you paint make sure you sand back at least 1/2" from the bare spots and give it some initial topcoat then primer then final coats.
done properly it is as good as the rest. If you painted over epoxyed areas and bare wood you are painting over apples and oranges.
you can email off list if you need more help
if the whole surface was epoxy coated I would look for incomlete mix or amine blush or incomplete coverage of epoxy coating.
mike
I was a professional wooden boat guy in florida since the 70's<the days before boats as jewelery> . This was common knowledge but seems to have died out. Maintaining the same boats over a decade sure helps to find out the old timers were right.
primer should never be applied over bare wood. It should get 1 thinned coat of topcoat and one unthinned coat. This will mostly disapear into the wood
but seals and hardens its surface. Primer consists of vehicle<liquid>
and solids. If applied over bare wood the vehicle is sucked into the bare wood leaving a porous matrix that will pull water from anywhere.
the leaves were just holding water.
Build primers should be sanded mostly off, the only primer that should have a compete coat are the bonding primers.
Most of the new paints are for putting a sheen on fibergalss and are too hard
for bare wood.
To repair you paint make sure you sand back at least 1/2" from the bare spots and give it some initial topcoat then primer then final coats.
done properly it is as good as the rest. If you painted over epoxyed areas and bare wood you are painting over apples and oranges.
you can email off list if you need more help
if the whole surface was epoxy coated I would look for incomlete mix or amine blush or incomplete coverage of epoxy coating.
mike
I was a professional wooden boat guy in florida since the 70's<the days before boats as jewelery> . This was common knowledge but seems to have died out. Maintaining the same boats over a decade sure helps to find out the old timers were right.
The real trouble is getting the old paint edge tapered and building the primer up to flush before the Brightside goes on. Brightside is such a thin coat that the old "spots" are going to show after you re-coat unless you are very careful.
Rick
Bryant Owen <mariner@...> wrote:
Thanks Bob
I went to the local marine guy where I bought the paint and they
agreed that just redoing the bare areas properly would do the trick.
As for amine blush. Actually anywhere there's epoxy (stitch and glue
seams only) the paint is just fine. Used West System for the tape and
later faired with microballoons filler. The bare spots are small and
scattered over the hull proper.
Bryant
Rick
Bryant Owen <mariner@...> wrote:
Thanks Bob
I went to the local marine guy where I bought the paint and they
agreed that just redoing the bare areas properly would do the trick.
As for amine blush. Actually anywhere there's epoxy (stitch and glue
seams only) the paint is just fine. Used West System for the tape and
later faired with microballoons filler. The bare spots are small and
scattered over the hull proper.
Bryant
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Chamberland" <cha62759@t...> wrote:
> See message 43597. And yes you probably didn't get all the amine blush
> off.
> Bob Chamberland-
>
>
> -- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bryant Owen" <mariner@n...> wrote:
> > The paint questions have been very timely for me. I'll skip the story
> > and put the question to you. Several years ago I painted a dinghy hull
> > with Brightside 1 part after using Brightside approved primer. In the
> > intervening period, the paint has blistered and gone in places - right
> > down to the bare wood - probably due to acidic content of leaves that
> > ended up blowing under the cover - sort of. Anyhoo, if I sand back to
> > sound paint - most of it is good - and reprime and repaint, will I be
> > OK? Or is there something I should know before I start?
> >
> > Bryant - who's sold the boat and needs to get it ready for the new
> owners
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Thanks Bob
I went to the local marine guy where I bought the paint and they
agreed that just redoing the bare areas properly would do the trick.
As for amine blush. Actually anywhere there's epoxy (stitch and glue
seams only) the paint is just fine. Used West System for the tape and
later faired with microballoons filler. The bare spots are small and
scattered over the hull proper.
Bryant
I went to the local marine guy where I bought the paint and they
agreed that just redoing the bare areas properly would do the trick.
As for amine blush. Actually anywhere there's epoxy (stitch and glue
seams only) the paint is just fine. Used West System for the tape and
later faired with microballoons filler. The bare spots are small and
scattered over the hull proper.
Bryant
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Chamberland" <cha62759@t...> wrote:
> See message 43597. And yes you probably didn't get all the amine blush
> off.
> Bob Chamberland-
>
>
> -- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bryant Owen" <mariner@n...> wrote:
> > The paint questions have been very timely for me. I'll skip the story
> > and put the question to you. Several years ago I painted a dinghy hull
> > with Brightside 1 part after using Brightside approved primer. In the
> > intervening period, the paint has blistered and gone in places - right
> > down to the bare wood - probably due to acidic content of leaves that
> > ended up blowing under the cover - sort of. Anyhoo, if I sand back to
> > sound paint - most of it is good - and reprime and repaint, will I be
> > OK? Or is there something I should know before I start?
> >
> > Bryant - who's sold the boat and needs to get it ready for the new
> owners
See message 43597. And yes you probably didn't get all the amine blush
off.
Bob Chamberland-
-- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bryant Owen" <mariner@n...> wrote:
off.
Bob Chamberland-
-- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bryant Owen" <mariner@n...> wrote:
> The paint questions have been very timely for me. I'll skip the storyowners
> and put the question to you. Several years ago I painted a dinghy hull
> with Brightside 1 part after using Brightside approved primer. In the
> intervening period, the paint has blistered and gone in places - right
> down to the bare wood - probably due to acidic content of leaves that
> ended up blowing under the cover - sort of. Anyhoo, if I sand back to
> sound paint - most of it is good - and reprime and repaint, will I be
> OK? Or is there something I should know before I start?
>
> Bryant - who's sold the boat and needs to get it ready for the new
Sounds like a good sanding, primer & paint would do the trick.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bryant Owen
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 5:59 PM
Subject: [bolger] Redoing Brightside
The paint questions have been very timely for me. I'll skip the story
and put the question to you. Several years ago I painted a dinghy hull
with Brightside 1 part after using Brightside approved primer. In the
intervening period, the paint has blistered and gone in places - right
down to the bare wood - probably due to acidic content of leaves that
ended up blowing under the cover - sort of. Anyhoo, if I sand back to
sound paint - most of it is good - and reprime and repaint, will I be
OK? Or is there something I should know before I start?
Bryant - who's sold the boat and needs to get it ready for the new owners
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
The paint questions have been very timely for me. I'll skip the story
and put the question to you. Several years ago I painted a dinghy hull
with Brightside 1 part after using Brightside approved primer. In the
intervening period, the paint has blistered and gone in places - right
down to the bare wood - probably due to acidic content of leaves that
ended up blowing under the cover - sort of. Anyhoo, if I sand back to
sound paint - most of it is good - and reprime and repaint, will I be
OK? Or is there something I should know before I start?
Bryant - who's sold the boat and needs to get it ready for the new owners
and put the question to you. Several years ago I painted a dinghy hull
with Brightside 1 part after using Brightside approved primer. In the
intervening period, the paint has blistered and gone in places - right
down to the bare wood - probably due to acidic content of leaves that
ended up blowing under the cover - sort of. Anyhoo, if I sand back to
sound paint - most of it is good - and reprime and repaint, will I be
OK? Or is there something I should know before I start?
Bryant - who's sold the boat and needs to get it ready for the new owners