Re: [bolger] Digest Number 2518
In a message dated 6/26/05 7:49:21 AM Central Daylight Time,
John.Trussell@...writes:
attention span, poor fine-motor muscular coordination and lack of spatial relations!
I, too, use a saber saw to cut out panels (mine is a B&D "Professional" [LOL)
unit, probably 2 decades old). With a common 10 pt./in. wood cutting blade and
the "orbit" setting on the "fine" end of the scale, it cuts through 2 X 1/4"
(6mm), clamped-together, occume panels as fast as I want to go, with no
splintering, but lots of sawdust - coarse, medium and fine. This saw has no
dust-extraction or dust-blowing function, and the accumulation of dust ahead of the
blade, when using it against a batten as a guide, is a bit of a problem. It might
not be a problem if you are sighting the cut by eye, rather than using a
batten, but I don't know. I used a batten this weekend and didn't do any
comparative trials.
This weekend I cut up 4 sheets of very nice "Joubert" brand occume
marine ply (approx. $60 + tax/sheet, Elmo's Lumber, Lake Elmo, MN) to make
planks. I decided that I would get better results by using the batten I used to draw
the dimensions to act as a fence for my saw than by cutting to the line
freehand. (My cuts with the saber saw tend to be visibly "wavy." In the hands of
someone who knows what he is doing, a Skilsaw might be a better choice of tool.)
My saber saw has a rectangular base approx. 3" X 6". It occurred to me
to accurately cut to a line, guided by a batten, I needed to have a circular
base, centered on the blade's front edge. I made a desultory, uninteresting
and uncompleted attempt at constructing such a base. I decided that, except for
the most sharply curved portions, the errors introduced by the interplay
between the curved batten and the rectangular saw base would be small and as likely
to cancel out earlier errors as to exacerbate them. The jury is still out on
this issue, but I'll have to live with the consequences!
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
John.Trussell@...writes:
> I've got anI, too, have an old back and old eyes, not to mention limited
> old back and old eyes. For me, a saber saw (mine is a Bosch) is lighter and
> cuts more slowly than a skil saw.
attention span, poor fine-motor muscular coordination and lack of spatial relations!
I, too, use a saber saw to cut out panels (mine is a B&D "Professional" [LOL)
unit, probably 2 decades old). With a common 10 pt./in. wood cutting blade and
the "orbit" setting on the "fine" end of the scale, it cuts through 2 X 1/4"
(6mm), clamped-together, occume panels as fast as I want to go, with no
splintering, but lots of sawdust - coarse, medium and fine. This saw has no
dust-extraction or dust-blowing function, and the accumulation of dust ahead of the
blade, when using it against a batten as a guide, is a bit of a problem. It might
not be a problem if you are sighting the cut by eye, rather than using a
batten, but I don't know. I used a batten this weekend and didn't do any
comparative trials.
This weekend I cut up 4 sheets of very nice "Joubert" brand occume
marine ply (approx. $60 + tax/sheet, Elmo's Lumber, Lake Elmo, MN) to make
planks. I decided that I would get better results by using the batten I used to draw
the dimensions to act as a fence for my saw than by cutting to the line
freehand. (My cuts with the saber saw tend to be visibly "wavy." In the hands of
someone who knows what he is doing, a Skilsaw might be a better choice of tool.)
My saber saw has a rectangular base approx. 3" X 6". It occurred to me
to accurately cut to a line, guided by a batten, I needed to have a circular
base, centered on the blade's front edge. I made a desultory, uninteresting
and uncompleted attempt at constructing such a base. I decided that, except for
the most sharply curved portions, the errors introduced by the interplay
between the curved batten and the rectangular saw base would be small and as likely
to cancel out earlier errors as to exacerbate them. The jury is still out on
this issue, but I'll have to live with the consequences!
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
My approach too, until I found Japanese pull-saws. You can cut the panel by hand, right up to the line with no splintering. It's fast too, and doesn't involve the anxiety I associate with power tools.
Bill Samson
Bill Samson
----- Original Message -----
From: John B. Trussell
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2005 1:35 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Digest Number 2518
Bill--
If you are using AC plywood, make sure that the C sides of both panels face
each other. Everyone has their own approach to cutting panels. I've got an
old back and old eyes. For me, a saber saw (mine is a Bosch) is lighter and
cuts more slowly than a skil saw. It is easier to manipulate and a
momentary lack of concentration is not ruinous. I cut the first panel about
an eighth of an inch oversize. Use the first panel as a pattern, and cut
the second panel as close to the line as possible. Then I clamp both panels
together and plane to the line on the first panel with a low angle block
plane (I have two and sharpen them a lot).
Have fun!
John T
----- Original Message -----
From: <wmrpage@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2005 12:09 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Digest Number 2518
> In a message dated 6/24/05 3:40:01 PM Central Daylight Time,
>catboat15@...writes:
>
> > Note: to myself and others if you cut duplicate panels by cutting one to
> > dimension then using that panel to cut another remember to cut inside
the
> > line
> > on the second panel. Had to shave a bit off the traced panels to get a
fit.
>
> Personally, I clamp two panels together before cutting. They may not be
> accurate, but they certainly are symmetrical!
>
> Ciao for Niao,
> Bill in MN
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.7.8/22 - Release Date: 6/17/2005
>
>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bill--
If you are using AC plywood, make sure that the C sides of both panels face
each other. Everyone has their own approach to cutting panels. I've got an
old back and old eyes. For me, a saber saw (mine is a Bosch) is lighter and
cuts more slowly than a skil saw. It is easier to manipulate and a
momentary lack of concentration is not ruinous. I cut the first panel about
an eighth of an inch oversize. Use the first panel as a pattern, and cut
the second panel as close to the line as possible. Then I clamp both panels
together and plane to the line on the first panel with a low angle block
plane (I have two and sharpen them a lot).
Have fun!
John T
If you are using AC plywood, make sure that the C sides of both panels face
each other. Everyone has their own approach to cutting panels. I've got an
old back and old eyes. For me, a saber saw (mine is a Bosch) is lighter and
cuts more slowly than a skil saw. It is easier to manipulate and a
momentary lack of concentration is not ruinous. I cut the first panel about
an eighth of an inch oversize. Use the first panel as a pattern, and cut
the second panel as close to the line as possible. Then I clamp both panels
together and plane to the line on the first panel with a low angle block
plane (I have two and sharpen them a lot).
Have fun!
John T
----- Original Message -----
From: <wmrpage@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2005 12:09 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Digest Number 2518
> In a message dated 6/24/05 3:40:01 PM Central Daylight Time,
>catboat15@...writes:
>
> > Note: to myself and others if you cut duplicate panels by cutting one to
> > dimension then using that panel to cut another remember to cut inside
the
> > line
> > on the second panel. Had to shave a bit off the traced panels to get a
fit.
>
> Personally, I clamp two panels together before cutting. They may not be
> accurate, but they certainly are symmetrical!
>
> Ciao for Niao,
> Bill in MN
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.7.8/22 - Release Date: 6/17/2005
>
>
In a message dated 6/24/05 3:40:01 PM Central Daylight Time,
catboat15@...writes:
accurate, but they certainly are symmetrical!
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
catboat15@...writes:
> Note: to myself and others if you cut duplicate panels by cutting one toPersonally, I clamp two panels together before cutting. They may not be
> dimension then using that panel to cut another remember to cut inside the
> line
> on the second panel. Had to shave a bit off the traced panels to get a fit.
accurate, but they certainly are symmetrical!
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
In a message dated 6/24/2005 11:25:11 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
bolger@yahoogroups.comwrites:
It actually hadn't occurred to me that not fiberglassing it was an
option....something to think about....particularly since summer is
already here....
Reading H.H. Payson's books I get the impression that if you leave off the
fiberglass all over skin you need to put two layers of tape on the outside
joints. A narrow tape and a wider one with the wide next to the wood.
Yesterday, outside looking at my cartopper's bones decided that the "tack
and tape" is not suitable for my workmanship. So started this morning on doing
the "Stitch and tape" scene.
Should be ready to turn over the hull tomorrow morning if I can find one of
my loose grandson's around to give a lift. Even the wife says it is starting
to look like a boat now with the bilge panels in place.
Note: to myself and others if you cut duplicate panels by cutting one to
dimension then using that panel to cut another remember to cut inside the line
on the second panel. Had to shave a bit off the traced panels to get a fit.
John Meacham
High desert of California
Bolger Cartopper.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
bolger@yahoogroups.comwrites:
It actually hadn't occurred to me that not fiberglassing it was an
option....something to think about....particularly since summer is
already here....
Reading H.H. Payson's books I get the impression that if you leave off the
fiberglass all over skin you need to put two layers of tape on the outside
joints. A narrow tape and a wider one with the wide next to the wood.
Yesterday, outside looking at my cartopper's bones decided that the "tack
and tape" is not suitable for my workmanship. So started this morning on doing
the "Stitch and tape" scene.
Should be ready to turn over the hull tomorrow morning if I can find one of
my loose grandson's around to give a lift. Even the wife says it is starting
to look like a boat now with the bilge panels in place.
Note: to myself and others if you cut duplicate panels by cutting one to
dimension then using that panel to cut another remember to cut inside the line
on the second panel. Had to shave a bit off the traced panels to get a fit.
John Meacham
High desert of California
Bolger Cartopper.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]