Re: Runabout? Bolger Bonefish
Well the Hartley Spearfish 12 plans arrived Tuesday. The are clear
and complete, including directions and dimensions for a strong back to
assemble the frames on. There are 1/2 drawings of the frames in full
size.
WELL worth $30 delivered. The inboard detail is quite adequate and
includes 2 or 3 variations for the builder to consider, including a
full wood keel w' lots of dead wood, and a simple skeg to partially
protect the shaft and prop made from a single 2x8.
One surprise, the outboard designs suggest up to 25hp for Spearfish,
but the inboard suggests only up to 8 hp. It is also straight direct
drive. So, git'r pointed right b4 you pull da rope.
Now I'll watch for Hawkeye plans from PB&F.
Don
and complete, including directions and dimensions for a strong back to
assemble the frames on. There are 1/2 drawings of the frames in full
size.
WELL worth $30 delivered. The inboard detail is quite adequate and
includes 2 or 3 variations for the builder to consider, including a
full wood keel w' lots of dead wood, and a simple skeg to partially
protect the shaft and prop made from a single 2x8.
One surprise, the outboard designs suggest up to 25hp for Spearfish,
but the inboard suggests only up to 8 hp. It is also straight direct
drive. So, git'r pointed right b4 you pull da rope.
Now I'll watch for Hawkeye plans from PB&F.
Don
Well finally dropped the check in the mail to PB&F for Hawkeye plans
this afternoon. Mailman picks it up middle of the day tomorrow. My
'Bonefish' will be built largely from these plans for scantlings,
construction sequence, and details. The result will be a Hawkeye
shaped like a Bonefish, with Bonefish's aircooled lawn & garden
powertrain. Should I not like the results w' the 18hp
Briggs&Stratton, I will plan for strength to support a bracket for an
outboard motor in place of the rudder.
I've not yet received Spearfish 12 plans from Hartley, but they are in
New Zeeland, so I guess I shouldn't be in a rush. Per an email I
received, they print plans to order. So I hope to see the "tubes" in
the mail in a couple of weeks from Bolger and Hartley both.
I doubt I'll build Spearfish 12, rather using the plans for input re
mounting the aircooled engine and inboard shaft log details, etc.
Then again, I've got a nice single cylinder 13hp B&S sitting.
http://www.hartley-boats.com/spearf.html
Don
this afternoon. Mailman picks it up middle of the day tomorrow. My
'Bonefish' will be built largely from these plans for scantlings,
construction sequence, and details. The result will be a Hawkeye
shaped like a Bonefish, with Bonefish's aircooled lawn & garden
powertrain. Should I not like the results w' the 18hp
Briggs&Stratton, I will plan for strength to support a bracket for an
outboard motor in place of the rudder.
I've not yet received Spearfish 12 plans from Hartley, but they are in
New Zeeland, so I guess I shouldn't be in a rush. Per an email I
received, they print plans to order. So I hope to see the "tubes" in
the mail in a couple of weeks from Bolger and Hartley both.
I doubt I'll build Spearfish 12, rather using the plans for input re
mounting the aircooled engine and inboard shaft log details, etc.
Then again, I've got a nice single cylinder 13hp B&S sitting.
http://www.hartley-boats.com/spearf.html
Don
More keeping the thread alive.
I've received Buehler's Backyard Boatbuilding. Shoud be more books
when I get home.
Been thinking about the Briggs & Stratton aircooled engine
installation in Bonefish. The engine has an integral fan that forces
air over the cooling fins. This air follows a path defined by the
engine cowling, and washes over the muffler just before exiting the
engine. Staring at the Bolger sketch/cartoon, I don't see anything to
manage hot air and exhaust coming off the motor.
Hmmm. Well I can't just let that heated air and exhaust gas
accumulate inside the bulwarks. I could pipe the exhaust
through 'lagged' piping out the stern, but that's a pain, and could be
a source of leaks, both water and gas.
So, My thought is to get some stainless steel double walled chimney
pipe and build a "smoke stack" from the motor box up through the
canopy. The inner pipe will conduct the cooling air and exhaust gas
up up and away. It also should provide an interesting "tug boat"
kinda look to the boat.
Don
I've received Buehler's Backyard Boatbuilding. Shoud be more books
when I get home.
Been thinking about the Briggs & Stratton aircooled engine
installation in Bonefish. The engine has an integral fan that forces
air over the cooling fins. This air follows a path defined by the
engine cowling, and washes over the muffler just before exiting the
engine. Staring at the Bolger sketch/cartoon, I don't see anything to
manage hot air and exhaust coming off the motor.
Hmmm. Well I can't just let that heated air and exhaust gas
accumulate inside the bulwarks. I could pipe the exhaust
through 'lagged' piping out the stern, but that's a pain, and could be
a source of leaks, both water and gas.
So, My thought is to get some stainless steel double walled chimney
pipe and build a "smoke stack" from the motor box up through the
canopy. The inner pipe will conduct the cooling air and exhaust gas
up up and away. It also should provide an interesting "tug boat"
kinda look to the boat.
Don
Keeping the thread alive. The AF 4G plans arrived today. I'll refer
to it as a very light cruiser, in the class of a plans built
Tennesee. Off to travel on business for a bit. I look fwd to
whatever the postman brings while I'm away.
I enjoy these planning phases.
Priced Okoume/Okume (spelled both ways on the same website). Whoa!!!
are they proud of that stuff! More than $100 per sheet.
Michalak's AF-4G plans recommend lumber yard stuff, but I won't be
able to store Bonefish upside down on some saw horses, under a
polytarp. Storing a 20' inboard "platform hull" very light cruiser
with light bulwarks will be a bit more involved that that! So, maybe
MDO?
Gotta pack!
Don SChultz
to it as a very light cruiser, in the class of a plans built
Tennesee. Off to travel on business for a bit. I look fwd to
whatever the postman brings while I'm away.
I enjoy these planning phases.
Priced Okoume/Okume (spelled both ways on the same website). Whoa!!!
are they proud of that stuff! More than $100 per sheet.
Michalak's AF-4G plans recommend lumber yard stuff, but I won't be
able to store Bonefish upside down on some saw horses, under a
polytarp. Storing a 20' inboard "platform hull" very light cruiser
with light bulwarks will be a bit more involved that that! So, maybe
MDO?
Gotta pack!
Don SChultz
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "donschultz8275" <donschultz@i...>
wrote:
Thanks, Nels
wrote:
> Thank you for the tip Nels. Amazon doesn't accept Canadian Pesos?Yep and I have ordered a copy! The price is really reasonable!
>
> Don
>
>
>Hi Don,
Thanks, Nels
Thank you for the tip Nels. Amazon doesn't accept Canadian Pesos?
Don
Don
> How to Build a Wooden Boat (Hardcover)
> by David C. McIntosh, Samuel F. Manning (Illustrator)
>
>http://tinyurl.com/9wdas
>
> If you buy and don't like it I will buy it from you as I can't find
> it here in Canada. I've had a library copy on borrow some time ago
> and it is now gone too.
>
> Thing is - if you like Hankinson - you will LOVE Bud and Sam's work!
>
> Sincerely, Nels
Thanks for the tip. I'll see what I can do to get that issue.
I just subscribed to MAIB over the weekend.
Don
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...>
wrote:
I just subscribed to MAIB over the weekend.
Don
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...>
wrote:
> There was a Weston Farmer plan, "Pop Gun"' in MAIB a
> few months ago set up for a B&S air cooled inboard
> engine, with Farmer's commentary and building notes,
> that might also be of some interest in setting up a
> bonefish. Sam
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "donschultz8275" <donschultz@i...>
wrote:
Do you have this book?
If not I suggest you try to get a look at it.
How to Build a Wooden Boat (Hardcover)
by David C. McIntosh, Samuel F. Manning (Illustrator)
http://tinyurl.com/9wdas
If you buy and don't like it I will buy it from you as I can't find
it here in Canada. I've had a library copy on borrow some time ago
and it is now gone too.
Thing is - if you like Hankinson - you will LOVE Bud and Sam's work!
Sincerely, Nels
wrote:
>http://www.hartley-boats.com/spearf.htmlto
>> Lets see, I've got the 18hp Briggs and Stratton, wow, almost time
> start buying plywood!!Hey Don,
>
> Well, not quite, but soon.
Do you have this book?
If not I suggest you try to get a look at it.
How to Build a Wooden Boat (Hardcover)
by David C. McIntosh, Samuel F. Manning (Illustrator)
http://tinyurl.com/9wdas
If you buy and don't like it I will buy it from you as I can't find
it here in Canada. I've had a library copy on borrow some time ago
and it is now gone too.
Thing is - if you like Hankinson - you will LOVE Bud and Sam's work!
Sincerely, Nels
There was a Weston Farmer plan, "Pop Gun"' in MAIB a
few months ago set up for a B&S air cooled inboard
engine, with Farmer's commentary and building notes,
that might also be of some interest in setting up a
bonefish. Sam
--- donschultz8275 <donschultz@...> wrote:
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
few months ago set up for a B&S air cooled inboard
engine, with Farmer's commentary and building notes,
that might also be of some interest in setting up a
bonefish. Sam
--- donschultz8275 <donschultz@...> wrote:
>http://www.hartley-boats.com/spearf.html__________________________________________________
>
> The Hartley Brooks people have a 12' skiff with an
> air cooled B&S
> style motor in it. So I bought the plans to see
> what insight it will
> offer.
>
> Even as a kid, I like to "read the directions". So
> with these plans,
> AF-4G plans, and Hawkeye plans I'll have lots of
> direcitons.
>
> Add to that Payson's Instant Boats, Buehler's
> Backyard Boats, the 2
> Glen-L books, and Chappel's Boatbuilding which is on
> the way, I'll
> have much good reference material.
>
> Lets see, I've got the 18hp Briggs and Stratton,
> wow, almost time to
> start buying plywood!!
>
> Well, not quite, but soon.
>
>
>
>
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
http://www.hartley-boats.com/spearf.html
The Hartley Brooks people have a 12' skiff with an air cooled B&S
style motor in it. So I bought the plans to see what insight it will
offer.
Even as a kid, I like to "read the directions". So with these plans,
AF-4G plans, and Hawkeye plans I'll have lots of direcitons.
Add to that Payson's Instant Boats, Buehler's Backyard Boats, the 2
Glen-L books, and Chappel's Boatbuilding which is on the way, I'll
have much good reference material.
Lets see, I've got the 18hp Briggs and Stratton, wow, almost time to
start buying plywood!!
Well, not quite, but soon.
The Hartley Brooks people have a 12' skiff with an air cooled B&S
style motor in it. So I bought the plans to see what insight it will
offer.
Even as a kid, I like to "read the directions". So with these plans,
AF-4G plans, and Hawkeye plans I'll have lots of direcitons.
Add to that Payson's Instant Boats, Buehler's Backyard Boats, the 2
Glen-L books, and Chappel's Boatbuilding which is on the way, I'll
have much good reference material.
Lets see, I've got the 18hp Briggs and Stratton, wow, almost time to
start buying plywood!!
Well, not quite, but soon.
After looking over the info PB&F sent, and reading through BWAOM I
realized that Hawkeye is a much lighter design that is also very
stiff and strong. Hawkeye weighs between 900 and 1000 lbs, MTs run
at least 1200, this despite the MT's 4' shorter length!
Yes much is cabin. Both Hawkeye and Bonefish don't have much and MT
has a bunch.
Bottom line though is I really must use Hawkeye plans as a guide to
building Bonefish because I need the lightness to get all the
performance I can from the 18 horse B&S engine.
Hawkeye works OK with about 25hp and will easily handle 40hp per
Bolger in BWAOM. Thus its scantlings will be downright husky for
Bonefish which can't get up and plane on its pointy on both ends box
keel like Hawkeye can on its central ski.
So I'll write up a note to Bolger and put it and a check in the mail
for Hawkeye plans tomorrow.
WhooHoo
Don Schultz
realized that Hawkeye is a much lighter design that is also very
stiff and strong. Hawkeye weighs between 900 and 1000 lbs, MTs run
at least 1200, this despite the MT's 4' shorter length!
Yes much is cabin. Both Hawkeye and Bonefish don't have much and MT
has a bunch.
Bottom line though is I really must use Hawkeye plans as a guide to
building Bonefish because I need the lightness to get all the
performance I can from the 18 horse B&S engine.
Hawkeye works OK with about 25hp and will easily handle 40hp per
Bolger in BWAOM. Thus its scantlings will be downright husky for
Bonefish which can't get up and plane on its pointy on both ends box
keel like Hawkeye can on its central ski.
So I'll write up a note to Bolger and put it and a check in the mail
for Hawkeye plans tomorrow.
WhooHoo
Don Schultz
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
about sequence of construction.
> > ...get a vision of howI will do this. Got Hulls open right now. Actually I was thinking
> > this boat is going to go together....
>
> Build a cardboard scale model, of course.
about sequence of construction.
> ...get a vision of howBuild a cardboard scale model, of course.
> this boat is going to go together....
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "donschultz8275" <donschultz@i...>
wrote:
around as a resource during construction.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I got a response from Bolger this morning. Kinda neat having a fax,
written in the hand of our demigod boat designer.
Bolger reported Bonefish is not a completed design, and that he could
not make a commitment to complete it, because of other committments.
I hope those of you waiting for commissioned work will see the
results soon. I think Insolent 60 will be an incredible boat.
Sitka, or TahitiLight, as I think of it, is also an amazing craft.
He offered MicroTrawler plans for $150, and said I could consider
Hawkeye plans for $100. The difference in price makes sense to me
because Hawkeye is a simpler open deck boat without the detailed
joinery/cabin designs of MT.
Bonefish, as noted by Dr. Hallman way way back up the thread, is very
close to Hawkeye in design, thus the Hawkeye plans will have greater
direct application. Using Hawkeye's "deck as a table" approach has
some appeal for creating the hull foundation. Using the plans
scantlings will be very helpful and prevent wasteful overbuilding or
dangerous underbuilding. I could overcome some of the difficulty in
flipping the hull by installing very short 1/4" plywood sides between
the bottom and deck, and then installing the real 1/2" plywood sides
right over the short sides, after she is upright. I could even go to
installing the engine/running gear and cabin/console work BEFORE
doing the sides. Easy access!!
Maybe build the simple box keel upright and immediately install the
propeller shaft, packing gland, thrust bearing and pulley carriers
before bonding it to the bottom/deck sandwich...
Hmmmm...
What I may have to do is order Hawkeye plans, spend some time staring
at them, and then get MT plans if I don't really get a vision of how
this boat is going to go together....
wrote:
> I suspect Bolger's advice will settle the issue. I also orderedplans for Michalak's AF4-G tonight. To inexpensive to not have
around as a resource during construction.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I got a response from Bolger this morning. Kinda neat having a fax,
written in the hand of our demigod boat designer.
Bolger reported Bonefish is not a completed design, and that he could
not make a commitment to complete it, because of other committments.
I hope those of you waiting for commissioned work will see the
results soon. I think Insolent 60 will be an incredible boat.
Sitka, or TahitiLight, as I think of it, is also an amazing craft.
He offered MicroTrawler plans for $150, and said I could consider
Hawkeye plans for $100. The difference in price makes sense to me
because Hawkeye is a simpler open deck boat without the detailed
joinery/cabin designs of MT.
Bonefish, as noted by Dr. Hallman way way back up the thread, is very
close to Hawkeye in design, thus the Hawkeye plans will have greater
direct application. Using Hawkeye's "deck as a table" approach has
some appeal for creating the hull foundation. Using the plans
scantlings will be very helpful and prevent wasteful overbuilding or
dangerous underbuilding. I could overcome some of the difficulty in
flipping the hull by installing very short 1/4" plywood sides between
the bottom and deck, and then installing the real 1/2" plywood sides
right over the short sides, after she is upright. I could even go to
installing the engine/running gear and cabin/console work BEFORE
doing the sides. Easy access!!
Maybe build the simple box keel upright and immediately install the
propeller shaft, packing gland, thrust bearing and pulley carriers
before bonding it to the bottom/deck sandwich...
Hmmmm...
What I may have to do is order Hawkeye plans, spend some time staring
at them, and then get MT plans if I don't really get a vision of how
this boat is going to go together....
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Howard Stephenson" <stephensonhw@a...>
wrote:
foot-wide hull without damaging the flimsy bulkheads was tricky".
has more in common with Hawkeye than MT, IE sealed deck with an
absolute minimum of bulkheads above the deck.
I feel strongly enough about what I saw of a Hawkeye under
construction that I would consider building the box keel and then
adding the main bottom and main deck with 1/4" thick sides, the sides
not extending above the main deck, then adding the sides after getting
the partially done hull upright.
Hawkeye has longitudinal girders. My first thought was to build with
those parts crosswise. I doubt there is a right and wrong here. With
1/2" ply for the bottom and deck, plus the very very stiff box keel,
structural strength of this boat is NOT an issue. IMO the sides of
the box keel will be 1/2" and the bottom built up to 3/4"
, but the construction sequence of MT is considered by the designer to
be superior.
wrote:
foot-wide hull without damaging the flimsy bulkheads was tricky".
>Yes Howard, I was wrong about the design ages. Bottom line, Bonefish
> However, the same chapter says that Hawkeye is a later design than MT
>
> Howard
>
has more in common with Hawkeye than MT, IE sealed deck with an
absolute minimum of bulkheads above the deck.
I feel strongly enough about what I saw of a Hawkeye under
construction that I would consider building the box keel and then
adding the main bottom and main deck with 1/4" thick sides, the sides
not extending above the main deck, then adding the sides after getting
the partially done hull upright.
Hawkeye has longitudinal girders. My first thought was to build with
those parts crosswise. I doubt there is a right and wrong here. With
1/2" ply for the bottom and deck, plus the very very stiff box keel,
structural strength of this boat is NOT an issue. IMO the sides of
the box keel will be 1/2" and the bottom built up to 3/4"
, but the construction sequence of MT is considered by the designer to
be superior.
Your conclusion about building upside-down matches Bolger's, Don. In
its MT chapter, BWAOM reproduces four little cartoons that show the
construction sequence -- right-side up on the bottom of the box keel.
PCB says: "When I built Hawkeye, I thought it would be neat to
assemble her bottom-up, using her flat deck as a building jig. This
worked, but it didn't seem to save any trouble, and righting the 8-
foot-wide hull without damaging the flimsy bulkheads was tricky".
However, the same chapter says that Hawkeye is a later design than MT.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "donschultz8275" <donschultz@i...>
wrote:
its MT chapter, BWAOM reproduces four little cartoons that show the
construction sequence -- right-side up on the bottom of the box keel.
PCB says: "When I built Hawkeye, I thought it would be neat to
assemble her bottom-up, using her flat deck as a building jig. This
worked, but it didn't seem to save any trouble, and righting the 8-
foot-wide hull without damaging the flimsy bulkheads was tricky".
However, the same chapter says that Hawkeye is a later design than MT.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "donschultz8275" <donschultz@i...>
wrote:
> I'm away from my copy of BWAOM, but it seems to me Bolger preferred
> the construction sequence he devised for the MicroTrawler and
> indicated it is a later design than Hawkeye. I've seen a pic of a
> Hawkeye going together and requiring a big frame work to protect the
> sides during the flip.
> I would think that alignment of the hull would be more sureI'm away from my copy of BWAOM, but it seems to me Bolger preferred
> if you built it by cutting the plywood frames, mounting the frames
> on a strongback, and they cutting and fitting the panels to the
> frames. Then flip the hull and install the raised deck, console,
> drive components, etc..
>
> Hawkeye is called to be built with the deck forming the 'table'/frame
> for the hull and then flipping the completed hull, perhaps that
> would work with a Bonefish.
the construction sequence he devised for the MicroTrawler and
indicated it is a later design than Hawkeye. I've seen a pic of a
Hawkeye going together and requiring a big frame work to protect the
sides during the flip.
I suspect Bolger's advice will settle the issue. I also ordered plans
for Michalak's AF4-G tonight. To inexpensive to not have around as a
resource during construction.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Howard Stephenson" <stephensonhw@a...>
wrote:
to request anything that will slow Insolent 60, or Sitka Explorer!
The more I think about it, the more I think Microtrawler will be the
ticket.
wrote:
> If you write to the Bolgers to let them know that you intendI think I'll fax 'em Wednesday when I'm back home. I sure don't want
> building Bonefish, they might be able to advise which set of plans
> you should buy as a building guide. At the same time, you could ask
> them for suggested scantlings (mainly plywood thicknesses). Surely
> they'd be interested enough in the project to assist you in this
> way, and it wouldn't take much of their time.
>
> Howard
>
to request anything that will slow Insolent 60, or Sitka Explorer!
The more I think about it, the more I think Microtrawler will be the
ticket.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...>
wrote:
that I'll be able to fine tune the ratio of the crankshaft to the
propeller shaft at relatively low cost. I'm going to try to run as
big a prop as I can reasonably find.
As requested above, lots of pictures.
wrote:
> When you determine the shaft/pulley/bearing set up, IIt will be pretty straight forward. One thing that will be neat is
> would be very interested to read about it. I am a
> little mystified as to the bearing requirements for a
> shaft where torque comes from the side via belt(s) and
> thrust is transmitted to the hull though a thrust
> bearing attached to a structural member. I know this
> is not a unique arraingement, but I have never seen
> one in person. When you get it laid out from prop
> through shaft log, bearings, pulleys and thrust
> bearing, it would be very educational, for me at
> least, to hear a desciption. Sam
>
that I'll be able to fine tune the ratio of the crankshaft to the
propeller shaft at relatively low cost. I'm going to try to run as
big a prop as I can reasonably find.
As requested above, lots of pictures.
When you determine the shaft/pulley/bearing set up, I
would be very interested to read about it. I am a
little mystified as to the bearing requirements for a
shaft where torque comes from the side via belt(s) and
thrust is transmitted to the hull though a thrust
bearing attached to a structural member. I know this
is not a unique arraingement, but I have never seen
one in person. When you get it laid out from prop
through shaft log, bearings, pulleys and thrust
bearing, it would be very educational, for me at
least, to hear a desciption. Sam
--- donschultz8275 <donschultz@...> wrote:
Sell on Yahoo! Auctions no fees. Bid on great items.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
would be very interested to read about it. I am a
little mystified as to the bearing requirements for a
shaft where torque comes from the side via belt(s) and
thrust is transmitted to the hull though a thrust
bearing attached to a structural member. I know this
is not a unique arraingement, but I have never seen
one in person. When you get it laid out from prop
through shaft log, bearings, pulleys and thrust
bearing, it would be very educational, for me at
least, to hear a desciption. Sam
--- donschultz8275 <donschultz@...> wrote:
> I ordered the book re inboard installations from____________________________________________________
> Glen-L. Sounds very
> useful.
>
> Ran my 18hp B&S for a few minutes this morning just
> for giggles. Very
> quiet and smooth.
>
> New questions:
>
>
>
Sell on Yahoo! Auctions no fees. Bid on great items.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
To expand on Bruce's idea: It looks like the self-draining deck is a
plane parallel with the DWL. If so, you could cut it out, mount it
upside down on trestles, bend the sides around, stitch-and-glue them
to the deck, fit the hull bottom (glueing and nailing into stringers
along the edges of the sides), cut access holes where required in
the hull bottom as already suggested, build the box-keel on the hull
bottom (keel sides stitch-and-glued to hull bottom, keel bottom
glued and nailed to stringers inside the sides of the box-keel),
sheathe and paint the bottom, then flip the boat to finish it.
Sounds easy when you say it quickly...
Howard
plane parallel with the DWL. If so, you could cut it out, mount it
upside down on trestles, bend the sides around, stitch-and-glue them
to the deck, fit the hull bottom (glueing and nailing into stringers
along the edges of the sides), cut access holes where required in
the hull bottom as already suggested, build the box-keel on the hull
bottom (keel sides stitch-and-glued to hull bottom, keel bottom
glued and nailed to stringers inside the sides of the box-keel),
sheathe and paint the bottom, then flip the boat to finish it.
Sounds easy when you say it quickly...
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
>
> I would think that alignment of the hull would be more sure
> if you built it by cutting the plywood frames, mounting the frames
> on a strongback, and they cutting and fitting the panels to the
> frames. Then flip the hull and install the raised deck, console,
> drive components, etc..
>
> Hawkeye is called to be built with the deck forming
the 'table'/frame
> for the hull and then flipping the completed hull, perhaps that
> would work with a Bonefish.
If you write to the Bolgers to let them know that you intend
building Bonefish, they might be able to advise which set of plans
you should buy as a building guide. At the same time, you could ask
them for suggested scantlings (mainly plywood thicknesses). Surely
they'd be interested enough in the project to assist you in this
way, and it wouldn't take much of their time.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "donschultz8275" <donschultz@i...>
wrote:
building Bonefish, they might be able to advise which set of plans
you should buy as a building guide. At the same time, you could ask
them for suggested scantlings (mainly plywood thicknesses). Surely
they'd be interested enough in the project to assist you in this
way, and it wouldn't take much of their time.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "donschultz8275" <donschultz@i...>
wrote:
> New questions:boat.
>
> Question: I was thinking to buy Michalak AF-4G plans as reference
> materials. It is similar in size, and is a plywood s&g, square
>Thus I
> However, it has occured to me it may make more sense to follow the
> Microtrawler building sequence, building from the box keel up.
> should buy Microtrawler plans also/instead, since it is mydirections.
> understanding Bolger provides a building sequence, if not
> Any thoughts?Not having built a stepfooted boat, my thoughts are pure speculation...
I would think that alignment of the hull would be more sure
if you built it by cutting the plywood frames, mounting the frames
on a strongback, and they cutting and fitting the panels to the
frames. Then flip the hull and install the raised deck, console,
drive components, etc..
Hawkeye is called to be built with the deck forming the 'table'/frame
for the hull and then flipping the completed hull, perhaps that
would work with a Bonefish.
If you are real serious about building a Bonefish, sending a letter
to PB&F would probably also be smart. There is a chance that
they have finished the design since the MAIB article, or that they
might be willing to finish it and/or have had some good ideas.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
Yet, there is enough info on the MAIB cartoon to build her. It could
be easily realized with about 14 sheets of 1/2" MDO and a six or eight
weekends of spare time, $2K of materials [incl. engine] or so.
====================
I ordered the book re inboard installations from Glen-L. Sounds very
useful.
Ran my 18hp B&S for a few minutes this morning just for giggles. Very
quiet and smooth.
New questions:
Question: I was thinking to buy Michalak AF-4G plans as reference
materials. It is similar in size, and is a plywood s&g, square boat.
I've been thinking of the construction sequence to be,
1. build the main hull.
2. Build and stick the box keel to the main hull, cutting access
through the flat bottom of the main hull.
3. Build the self bailing deck.
However, it has occured to me it may make more sense to follow the
Microtrawler building sequence, building from the box keel up. Thus I
should buy Microtrawler plans also/instead, since it is my
understanding Bolger provides a building sequence, if not directions.
Any thoughts?
> HeeHeeHee.Of course, we demand photos of all the details... :)
How do you get it back in the briefcase once it's been taped together?
Howard :-]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "donschultz8275" <donschultz@i...>
wrote:
Howard :-]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "donschultz8275" <donschultz@i...>
wrote:
> So anyway, I hit the road again next week. Have to include somecard
> stock and tape in the briefcase so I can mock up the hull in paper
> during the week.
So I know I was going to use my existing 13hp single cylinder B&S for
Bonefish, and I think it would have been a very adequate starting
point.
BUT!!! Today I happened to find a 200 hour 18hp B&S that runs very
very nicely and quietly for $400. It is in my garage under the
workbench next to the now jilted 13hp single.
A new engine in this class would have been $1500, many nice used ones
are $600. This is a newer "Industria" engine with pressure oiling and
a spin on oil filter, like a "real" engine. It is, of course, air
cooled. I think it weighs about 100 lbs
So anyway, I hit the road again next week. Have to include some card
stock and tape in the briefcase so I can mock up the hull in paper
during the week.
HeeHeeHee.
Bruce Hallman, thanks for the help.
Bonefish, and I think it would have been a very adequate starting
point.
BUT!!! Today I happened to find a 200 hour 18hp B&S that runs very
very nicely and quietly for $400. It is in my garage under the
workbench next to the now jilted 13hp single.
A new engine in this class would have been $1500, many nice used ones
are $600. This is a newer "Industria" engine with pressure oiling and
a spin on oil filter, like a "real" engine. It is, of course, air
cooled. I think it weighs about 100 lbs
So anyway, I hit the road again next week. Have to include some card
stock and tape in the briefcase so I can mock up the hull in paper
during the week.
HeeHeeHee.
Bruce Hallman, thanks for the help.
At 12:08 PM 7/7/05, you wrote:
Once you get Hulls open, open the file you're interested in.
create a folder to put all the files in
click "file", "save-create"
under "directories", browse to that folder. note the dos names
under "file name", change the folder (path) to be that folder
under "expansions", check what you want created
change "export path" to be that same folder
click "save"
You will now have generated in that folder the items you selected. Each
piece will be a separate file. If you chose "dxf" they will be in that
format, so that you can open them with a cad program.
Regards,
RonB
>Bruce, I am pretty stupid. How do you use that fileNOT obvious, but I think I've figured it out.
>to create a table of offsets, or expanded panels, or
>whatever it is supposed to be. This is probably
>obvious to everyone else, but I don't get it.
Once you get Hulls open, open the file you're interested in.
create a folder to put all the files in
click "file", "save-create"
under "directories", browse to that folder. note the dos names
under "file name", change the folder (path) to be that folder
under "expansions", check what you want created
change "export path" to be that same folder
click "save"
You will now have generated in that folder the items you selected. Each
piece will be a separate file. If you chose "dxf" they will be in that
format, so that you can open them with a cad program.
Regards,
RonB
--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
I am beta testing versions of FREE!Ship that will be able to import
.hul files. I guess by the weekend (or short after) version 1.60 will
be released that includes that feature.
FREE!Ship is more powerful than Hulls, and the learning curve is more
steep (at least as long as there is no manual), but I think it will
replace Hulls very soon.
Cheers,
Stefan
> Hulls has a steep learning curve.Just as a short note:
> I learned by making about a dozen paper models.
I am beta testing versions of FREE!Ship that will be able to import
.hul files. I guess by the weekend (or short after) version 1.60 will
be released that includes that feature.
FREE!Ship is more powerful than Hulls, and the learning curve is more
steep (at least as long as there is no manual), but I think it will
replace Hulls very soon.
Cheers,
Stefan
On 7/7/05, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...> wrote:
I learned by making about a dozen paper models.
Harry James asked me a similar question last month,
here is a clip and paste of my answer then:
===========================
work very good. A boat can be designed in about two hours with
practice.
the offset table in Hulls only a small amount, for 'fine align' of the
stem, etc..
My advice is to make five or ten paper models using Hulls to quickly
get over the learning curve.
I recall reading 'unofficial' online instructuctions for Hulls, I
forget where though.
Here is a rough outline of how I do it...
1) I choose an exising boat with roughly the same shape, and exactly the
same number of chines and open it with:
File|Open|[select]|Done
2) I drag the lines, chines, sheers, etc.. to the shape of the hull I want
by using the mouse. Working back and forth between the various views
to get a boat with the smooth lines and shape you want.
3) I then set the overall scale of the boat using
Calculations|Rescale|Length Overall Go back to step 2 and tweak.
...If you plan to plot the panels on a laser printer, using a smaller
scale that
fits better on thin cardboard which has a different aspect ratio that 4x8 ply
can same some trouble... This process takes trial and error and experience
helps...
4) You make the patterns for the panels and the frames using the
menu command File|SaveCreate
This opens a "Save and Create Patterns" dialogue box to set the locations
of frames you want and to choose whether you want to plot the
strongback "2x4Spar" and/or the deck and sole etc..
5) Now click the menu item Patterns|Nesting
Again, some learning curve here! For plotting on paper choosing a panel
size of about 110 x 96 [I forget exactly!] plots better on laser printer than
using the default 48x96.
Click each of your panels in the selection box and drag to a good location
on the plywood. You can copy and flip to get 'opposite hand' panels.
Once done you can plot to a laser printer using the 'Print' button.
You can also plot the 'layout points' using the 'Save' button, this is
how you layout full size panels on plywood, including the 'notches'
in the bulkheads if you actually treat the thin edge surface of each
strake as its own very long and thin chine.
> Bruce, I am pretty stupid. How do you use that fileHulls has a steep learning curve.
> to create a table of offsets, or expanded panels, or
> whatever it is supposed to be. This is probably
> obvious to everyone else, but I don't get it. Thanks
I learned by making about a dozen paper models.
Harry James asked me a similar question last month,
here is a clip and paste of my answer then:
===========================
> First; The process by which you got the lines into Hulls and then gotYeah, the learning curve for Hulls is real steep, but once learned it does
> the panels and 6 notched bulkheads back out is a little obscure to me.
work very good. A boat can be designed in about two hours with
practice.
> I think I can take a set of offsets and work that into Hulls and get aI feel it is easier to not enter the whole table of offsets, but rather use
> result but the rest I am lost at.
the offset table in Hulls only a small amount, for 'fine align' of the
stem, etc..
> Second; How hard would it be to take other designs and do the same? I amYou and I think alike, I have been eyeing both those hulls as lapstrake shapes.
> thinking that a Gypsy with a few more panels would make a really great
> looking lapstrake boat. Cartopper even more so, but you could shave
> 20-30 lbs on a Gypsy add 10 square feet of sail and have a serious screamer.
My advice is to make five or ten paper models using Hulls to quickly
get over the learning curve.
I recall reading 'unofficial' online instructuctions for Hulls, I
forget where though.
Here is a rough outline of how I do it...
1) I choose an exising boat with roughly the same shape, and exactly the
same number of chines and open it with:
File|Open|[select]|Done
2) I drag the lines, chines, sheers, etc.. to the shape of the hull I want
by using the mouse. Working back and forth between the various views
to get a boat with the smooth lines and shape you want.
3) I then set the overall scale of the boat using
Calculations|Rescale|Length Overall Go back to step 2 and tweak.
...If you plan to plot the panels on a laser printer, using a smaller
scale that
fits better on thin cardboard which has a different aspect ratio that 4x8 ply
can same some trouble... This process takes trial and error and experience
helps...
4) You make the patterns for the panels and the frames using the
menu command File|SaveCreate
This opens a "Save and Create Patterns" dialogue box to set the locations
of frames you want and to choose whether you want to plot the
strongback "2x4Spar" and/or the deck and sole etc..
5) Now click the menu item Patterns|Nesting
Again, some learning curve here! For plotting on paper choosing a panel
size of about 110 x 96 [I forget exactly!] plots better on laser printer than
using the default 48x96.
Click each of your panels in the selection box and drag to a good location
on the plywood. You can copy and flip to get 'opposite hand' panels.
Once done you can plot to a laser printer using the 'Print' button.
You can also plot the 'layout points' using the 'Save' button, this is
how you layout full size panels on plywood, including the 'notches'
in the bulkheads if you actually treat the thin edge surface of each
strake as its own very long and thin chine.
Bruce, I am pretty stupid. How do you use that file
to create a table of offsets, or expanded panels, or
whatever it is supposed to be. This is probably
obvious to everyone else, but I don't get it. Thanks
--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote:
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
to create a table of offsets, or expanded panels, or
whatever it is supposed to be. This is probably
obvious to everyone else, but I don't get it. Thanks
--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote:
> > Hmmmm, yes, should be a good reason/opportunity to__________________________________________________
> try using
> > the "Hulls" software.
>
> Here is a quickie 'BONEFISH.HUL' file , accurate to
> an inch or two,
> which is probably all the accuracy that is sensible.
> In my opinion,
> if it looks like a boat, it is a boat.
>
>http://hallman.org/bolger/bonefish/BONEFISH.HUL
>
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
> Hmmmm, yes, should be a good reason/opportunity to try usingHere is a quickie 'BONEFISH.HUL' file , accurate to an inch or two,
> the "Hulls" software.
which is probably all the accuracy that is sensible. In my opinion,
if it looks like a boat, it is a boat.
http://hallman.org/bolger/bonefish/BONEFISH.HUL
While your at Glen L take a look at the book at "Inboard Motor
Installation" . It is far and away the best book I have read on the
subject.
http://shop.glenl.com/browse.cfm/4,222.html
All of the Glen L books by Witt are excellent examples of how a text
book should be written. All mine have a well worn look to them.
HJ
donschultz8275 wrote:
----snip---
Installation" . It is far and away the best book I have read on the
subject.
http://shop.glenl.com/browse.cfm/4,222.html
All of the Glen L books by Witt are excellent examples of how a text
book should be written. All mine have a well worn look to them.
HJ
donschultz8275 wrote:
----snip---
>Bruce Hallman; Thank you for the reference to Chappell's book for
>details of how to do the propellor shaft. That was a big conern.
>Glen L's site has references to inboard fitting "kits" including
>thrust bearings and packing glands.
>
>
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
the "Hulls" software. I used Irfanview to get the cartoon onto
8.5"x11" paper in landscape w' no distortion. I dropped the sketch
at my printer. He will blow it up to poster size for me by end of
business today.
Using the larger undistored pic will greatly enhance the accuracy of
my measurements, will look neat on the wall of my home office. My
next step was going to be to (I think) loft the measurements and
create expanded panel drawings. Then I'd mock up the the hull in
poster board and scotch tape to verify the lofting. I'll try Hulls
before I try the hand method.
I've been using Payson's "Instant Boats" as a reference for the how
to of lofting.
Bruce Hallman; Thank you for the reference to Chappell's book for
details of how to do the propellor shaft. That was a big conern.
Glen L's site has references to inboard fitting "kits" including
thrust bearings and packing glands.
I still intend to buy Michalak's AF4G plans to provide detail of how
to do joints and important input on scantlings. This will be
valuable for a first time builder. At least one AF4_ builder has
some very good pics on his website detailing how he did a self
bailing cockpit floor. This will help in detailing out the raised
self bailing deck of Bonefish.
One other interesting detail is the "door" in the stern to the port
side of the rudder. I believe it is there to make boating a large
fish easier, but it seems the trolling motor/reverse thruster may be
mounted to it.
I will point the electric reverse thruster aft, and run it
in "forward" mode rather than reversing it. It appears Bolger may
have intended the helmsman step to the stern and take direct control
of the thruster for backing. Easier construction.
Lastly, a 20'+ boat with the weight, and top hamper of Bonefish was
never going to "fly" on the step the way Microtrawler or Hawkeye
could. At least not with a lawn mower engine for power. Thus I'd
say Bolger created Bonefish as a hybrid planing/displacement hull.
Most lift gained from the steps angle to the rest of the hull will
come from the center section of the step, right under the helm.
I'll use the 13 hp single cylinder Briggs and Stratton I have as the
initial power, but will leave room for a flat or V twin of 18-24 hp
>Hmmmm, yes, should be a good reason/opportunity to try using
> You could scale dimensions off the 'cartoon' to within an inch
> and you could plug the dimensions into hulls.exe to get the
> shape of expanded panels. 1/2" plywood seems about right,
> perhaps double that on the shoe bottom. Put a used motor
> and you would have a cheap capable fishing boat!
>
the "Hulls" software. I used Irfanview to get the cartoon onto
8.5"x11" paper in landscape w' no distortion. I dropped the sketch
at my printer. He will blow it up to poster size for me by end of
business today.
Using the larger undistored pic will greatly enhance the accuracy of
my measurements, will look neat on the wall of my home office. My
next step was going to be to (I think) loft the measurements and
create expanded panel drawings. Then I'd mock up the the hull in
poster board and scotch tape to verify the lofting. I'll try Hulls
before I try the hand method.
I've been using Payson's "Instant Boats" as a reference for the how
to of lofting.
Bruce Hallman; Thank you for the reference to Chappell's book for
details of how to do the propellor shaft. That was a big conern.
Glen L's site has references to inboard fitting "kits" including
thrust bearings and packing glands.
I still intend to buy Michalak's AF4G plans to provide detail of how
to do joints and important input on scantlings. This will be
valuable for a first time builder. At least one AF4_ builder has
some very good pics on his website detailing how he did a self
bailing cockpit floor. This will help in detailing out the raised
self bailing deck of Bonefish.
One other interesting detail is the "door" in the stern to the port
side of the rudder. I believe it is there to make boating a large
fish easier, but it seems the trolling motor/reverse thruster may be
mounted to it.
I will point the electric reverse thruster aft, and run it
in "forward" mode rather than reversing it. It appears Bolger may
have intended the helmsman step to the stern and take direct control
of the thruster for backing. Easier construction.
Lastly, a 20'+ boat with the weight, and top hamper of Bonefish was
never going to "fly" on the step the way Microtrawler or Hawkeye
could. At least not with a lawn mower engine for power. Thus I'd
say Bolger created Bonefish as a hybrid planing/displacement hull.
Most lift gained from the steps angle to the rest of the hull will
come from the center section of the step, right under the helm.
I'll use the 13 hp single cylinder Briggs and Stratton I have as the
initial power, but will leave room for a flat or V twin of 18-24 hp
Two thoughts, with nothing but conjecture to back them
up
1) the extra lift of the higher angle of attack of the
bottom of the keel is sufficient to get enough of the
hull proper out of the water that the added drag of
the high-attack keel is more than offset by the
reduction of drag from the main hull--in effect the
keel acts as a hydrofoil; or
2) the keel is deeper than othewise optimum aft
optimum aft to to accept the depth of the shaft
pulley or to clear the prop.
--- Howard Stephenson <stephensonhw@...> wrote:
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
up
1) the extra lift of the higher angle of attack of the
bottom of the keel is sufficient to get enough of the
hull proper out of the water that the added drag of
the high-attack keel is more than offset by the
reduction of drag from the main hull--in effect the
keel acts as a hydrofoil; or
2) the keel is deeper than othewise optimum aft
optimum aft to to accept the depth of the shaft
pulley or to clear the prop.
--- Howard Stephenson <stephensonhw@...> wrote:
> Something odd about this design is that the bottom__________________________________________________
> of the box keel is
> set at an angle to the waterline i.e. there is
> "drag" to the keel,
> whereas the bottoms of the sponsons are parallel
> with the waterline.
> With Hawkeye and Microtrawler the two surfaces are
> parallel with each
> other.
>
> This is odd because, with a planing hull, there is
> an optimal angle
> of attack for any particular load and speed. Here
> you are going to
> have two angles of attack in the one hull.
>
> Howard
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman
> <bruce@h...> wrote:
>
> > I am curious how the hull would plane?
> > Would it rise up on the cutwater?
>
>
>
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Two thoughts, with nothing but conjecture to back them
up
1) the extra lift of the higher angle of attack of the
bottom of the keel is sufficient to get enough of the
hull proper out of the water that the added drag of
the high-attack keel is more than offset by the
reduction of drag from the main hull--in effect the
keel acts as a hydrofoil; or
2) the keel is deeper than othewise optimum aft
optimum aft to to accept the depth of the shaft
pulley or to clear the prop.
--- Howard Stephenson <stephensonhw@...> wrote:
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
up
1) the extra lift of the higher angle of attack of the
bottom of the keel is sufficient to get enough of the
hull proper out of the water that the added drag of
the high-attack keel is more than offset by the
reduction of drag from the main hull--in effect the
keel acts as a hydrofoil; or
2) the keel is deeper than othewise optimum aft
optimum aft to to accept the depth of the shaft
pulley or to clear the prop.
--- Howard Stephenson <stephensonhw@...> wrote:
> Something odd about this design is that the bottom__________________________________________________
> of the box keel is
> set at an angle to the waterline i.e. there is
> "drag" to the keel,
> whereas the bottoms of the sponsons are parallel
> with the waterline.
> With Hawkeye and Microtrawler the two surfaces are
> parallel with each
> other.
>
> This is odd because, with a planing hull, there is
> an optimal angle
> of attack for any particular load and speed. Here
> you are going to
> have two angles of attack in the one hull.
>
> Howard
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman
> <bruce@h...> wrote:
>
> > I am curious how the hull would plane?
> > Would it rise up on the cutwater?
>
>
>
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Something odd about this design is that the bottom of the box keel is
set at an angle to the waterline i.e. there is "drag" to the keel,
whereas the bottoms of the sponsons are parallel with the waterline.
With Hawkeye and Microtrawler the two surfaces are parallel with each
other.
This is odd because, with a planing hull, there is an optimal angle
of attack for any particular load and speed. Here you are going to
have two angles of attack in the one hull.
Howard
set at an angle to the waterline i.e. there is "drag" to the keel,
whereas the bottoms of the sponsons are parallel with the waterline.
With Hawkeye and Microtrawler the two surfaces are parallel with each
other.
This is odd because, with a planing hull, there is an optimal angle
of attack for any particular load and speed. Here you are going to
have two angles of attack in the one hull.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
> I am curious how the hull would plane?
> Would it rise up on the cutwater?
> blast to play around with. Any idea how to size theI would talk with a 'prop shop' who would calculate that for you,
> pullies and propellor? Any thoughts about how to
> incorporate a thrust bearing in the shaft?
and perhaps sell you the propeller, or it probably could be
figured out by reading a book to understand the formulas.
The stuffing box, shaft bearing and thrust bearing details I would
copy from the Howard Chapelle _Boatbuilding_ book.
You are right, I think she would plane on the main
hull, not the box keel. The box has almost no planing
surface toward the stern. This design would be a
blast to play around with. Any idea how to size the
pullies and propellor? Any thoughts about how to
incorporate a thrust bearing in the shaft?
--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote:
Sell on Yahoo! Auctions no fees. Bid on great items.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
hull, not the box keel. The box has almost no planing
surface toward the stern. This design would be a
blast to play around with. Any idea how to size the
pullies and propellor? Any thoughts about how to
incorporate a thrust bearing in the shaft?
--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote:
> > > What a delightful boat Bonefish is.____________________________________________________
>
> Thinking more about Bonefish...
> in the writeup PB&F write "shapes
> like this plane at good speed with
> very small motors".
>
> I am curious how the hull would plane?
> Would it rise up on the cutwater? If
> so, then the propeller would rise out of the
> water as it is located above the bottom
> of the cutwater, so the hull would have to be
> immersed enough for the propeller to bite
> some water, and the tail of the cutwater
> would be immersed, perhaps that is
> why the cutwater comes to a point
> at the end, where the cutwater of
> a Hawkeye is square.
>
Sell on Yahoo! Auctions no fees. Bid on great items.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
> > What a delightful boat Bonefish is.Thinking more about Bonefish...
in the writeup PB&F write "shapes
like this plane at good speed with
very small motors".
I am curious how the hull would plane?
Would it rise up on the cutwater? If
so, then the propeller would rise out of the
water as it is located above the bottom
of the cutwater, so the hull would have to be
immersed enough for the propeller to bite
some water, and the tail of the cutwater
would be immersed, perhaps that is
why the cutwater comes to a point
at the end, where the cutwater of
a Hawkeye is square.
> What a delightful boat Bonefish is. You have mentioned it before, butYou could scale dimensions off the 'cartoon' to within an inch
> had not supplied the link to the scan of the article. I've gotta
> build one!!, but no plans!! Sigh.
and you could plug the dimensions into hulls.exe to get the
shape of expanded panels. 1/2" plywood seems about right,
perhaps double that on the shoe bottom. Put a used motor
and you would have a cheap capable fishing boat!
An electric clutch is inside a pulley it can be a two sheave one. The
pulley can freewheel or the shaft can free wheel inside the pulley which
can be connected by belts to the prop shaft. You apply electricity and
the clutch engages and the pulley turns. I had three or four of them on
my last Herring boat. See item 1081 0n the Northern tool site, a
hydraulic pump with an electric clutch.
*http://tinyurl.com/9bwl3
*
HJ
--Snip--
pulley can freewheel or the shaft can free wheel inside the pulley which
can be connected by belts to the prop shaft. You apply electricity and
the clutch engages and the pulley turns. I had three or four of them on
my last Herring boat. See item 1081 0n the Northern tool site, a
hydraulic pump with an electric clutch.
*http://tinyurl.com/9bwl3
*
HJ
--Snip--
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>Does anybody know what, precisely, they are describing when they
>mention "stock electric clutch"?
>
>It could be easily realized with about 14 sheets of 1/2" MDO and a six or
>eight weekends of spare time, $2K of materials [incl. engine] or so.
>
>
>
Bee is a half scale Microtrawler hull.
(I've built both)
Rick
(I've built both)
Rick
> I'll vote along with Bruce Hallman for taking a MICRO[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> TRAWLER,sans cabin,and fixing her up with only what you
> need.Or,taken from another end,get a hold of BEE plans and stretch
> the bugger up to 14' with a console etc....
> But build something before it gets too cold to work down
> there.....:-D !
Zipper, from the same website, might meet your requirement, Sam. It
would certainly self-drain, and will do 38 mph with only 18 hp.
Steering with your feet on the rudder bar would be a look-no-hands
bonus.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Probst" <stefan.probst@o...>
wrote:
would certainly self-drain, and will do 38 mph with only 18 hp.
Steering with your feet on the rudder bar would be a look-no-hands
bonus.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Probst" <stefan.probst@o...>
wrote:
> --- Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...> wrote:
> > Hal, I'd love to see the plans for this little boat,
> > thanks.
--- Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...> wrote:
Stefan
> Hal, I'd love to see the plans for this little boat,http://www.svensons.com/boat/?p=RunaboutsOutboard/pm38
> thanks.
Stefan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
These lawn and garden service aircooled engines usually provide power
out both ends of the drive shaft. One end goes to the transmission to
drive the wheels. The other has a simple 12 vdc electric clutch which
is connnected via V belts to the accessory installed, IE mower deck,
snow blower, tiller, etc.
Good used engines of 16-24 horse power can be bought for $300+.
I have, right now a good running 13hp single cylinder Briggs, with a
simple V-belt clutch. I also have a 16 HP Briggs w' the same clutch
but that's in my current lawn mower.
The electric clutch is the way to go because of horse power
efficiency, by having one less v-belt and 3 fewer pulleys, but one
might pick up such an engine in good shape for less than $100 w'
the "clutch.
What a delightful boat Bonefish is. You have mentioned it before, but
had not supplied the link to the scan of the article. I've gotta
build one!!, but no plans!! Sigh.
>Yes,
> Does anybody know what, precisely, they are describing when they
> mention "stock electric clutch"?
>
These lawn and garden service aircooled engines usually provide power
out both ends of the drive shaft. One end goes to the transmission to
drive the wheels. The other has a simple 12 vdc electric clutch which
is connnected via V belts to the accessory installed, IE mower deck,
snow blower, tiller, etc.
Good used engines of 16-24 horse power can be bought for $300+.
I have, right now a good running 13hp single cylinder Briggs, with a
simple V-belt clutch. I also have a 16 HP Briggs w' the same clutch
but that's in my current lawn mower.
The electric clutch is the way to go because of horse power
efficiency, by having one less v-belt and 3 fewer pulleys, but one
might pick up such an engine in good shape for less than $100 w'
the "clutch.
What a delightful boat Bonefish is. You have mentioned it before, but
had not supplied the link to the scan of the article. I've gotta
build one!!, but no plans!! Sigh.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@h...> wrote:
meet your needs. I would guess that both are rather heavier than would
be considered "runabout". I know that Hawkeye at speed in any kind of
chop is a trial and would guess the same for Microtrawler.
Bob Chamberland
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...>meet your needs but there must be a simpler boat to build that would
> wrote:
> >
> > I am looking for plans that meet the folowing
> > criteria, and would welcome suggestions from the
> > group:
> > I want to build a runabout (or console boat, but in
> > any case it should accomodate remote steering) of
> > around 14', for sheltered lake use, should plane and
> > run in the 20knt range with about 30-40 hp max.,
> > buildable from sheet ply/epoxy, self-bailing.
> >
> > Any suggestions? Thanks. Sam
>
>
>
> Sam,
>
> I'll vote along with Bruce Hallman for taking a MICRO
> TRAWLER,sans cabin,and fixing her up with only what you
> need.Or,taken from another end,get a hold of BEE plans and stretch
> the bugger up to 14' with a console etc....
> But build something before it gets too cold to work down
> there.....:-D !
>
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Peter Lenihan, pining for a cold wet one......
>
>
> Hi Sam, I'm sure either MicroTrawler or Hawkeye could be adapted to
meet your needs. I would guess that both are rather heavier than would
be considered "runabout". I know that Hawkeye at speed in any kind of
chop is a trial and would guess the same for Microtrawler.
Bob Chamberland
>
>
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> >http://mail.yahoo.com
Hawkeye has everything in your list but the 14'. It is 18'-6".
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...>
wrote:
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...>
wrote:
>
> I am looking for plans that meet the folowing
> criteria, and would welcome suggestions from the
> group:
> I want to build a runabout (or console boat, but in
> any case it should accomodate remote steering) of
> around 14', for sheltered lake use, should plane and
> run in the 20knt range with about 30-40 hp max.,
> buildable from sheet ply/epoxy, self-bailing.
>
> Any suggestions? Thanks. Sam
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
>http://mail.yahoo.com
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...>
wrote:
I'll vote along with Bruce Hallman for taking a MICRO
TRAWLER,sans cabin,and fixing her up with only what you
need.Or,taken from another end,get a hold of BEE plans and stretch
the bugger up to 14' with a console etc....
But build something before it gets too cold to work down
there.....:-D !
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, pining for a cold wet one......
wrote:
>Sam,
> I am looking for plans that meet the folowing
> criteria, and would welcome suggestions from the
> group:
> I want to build a runabout (or console boat, but in
> any case it should accomodate remote steering) of
> around 14', for sheltered lake use, should plane and
> run in the 20knt range with about 30-40 hp max.,
> buildable from sheet ply/epoxy, self-bailing.
>
> Any suggestions? Thanks. Sam
I'll vote along with Bruce Hallman for taking a MICRO
TRAWLER,sans cabin,and fixing her up with only what you
need.Or,taken from another end,get a hold of BEE plans and stretch
the bugger up to 14' with a console etc....
But build something before it gets too cold to work down
there.....:-D !
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, pining for a cold wet one......
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
>http://mail.yahoo.com
Hawkeye is a self bailing deck boat. It might be a starting point.
Charles
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...>
wrote:
Charles
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...>
wrote:
>
> I am looking for plans that meet the folowing
> criteria, and would welcome suggestions from the
> group:
> I want to build a runabout (or console boat, but in
> any case it should accomodate remote steering) of
> around 14', for sheltered lake use, should plane and
> run in the 20knt range with about 30-40 hp max.,
> buildable from sheet ply/epoxy, self-bailing.
>
> Any suggestions? Thanks. Sam
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
>http://mail.yahoo.com
Not rude at all--the answer is lazyness. I just want
a deck above the water line to shed rainwater so she
doesn't have to be bailed frequently. I don't mean
self-bailing in the sense that water that comes in
during a run is sucked out like a self-bailing dinghy.
Sam
--- Howard Stephenson <stephensonhw@...> wrote:
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
a deck above the water line to shed rainwater so she
doesn't have to be bailed frequently. I don't mean
self-bailing in the sense that water that comes in
during a run is sucked out like a self-bailing dinghy.
Sam
--- Howard Stephenson <stephensonhw@...> wrote:
> If it's not a rude question, Sam, why does it need__________________________________________________
> to be self-
> bailing,
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
If it's not a rude question, Sam, why does it need to be self-
bailing, when it's going to be used in calm water?
The immedediate thought that comes to mind is a decked-over hull.
Another kind of self-bailing arrangement is commonly seen on sailing
dinghies that are not decked over (although they usually have
buoyancy tanks). It's a metal plate flush with the bottom. You can
see a picture here:
http://www.seamarknunn.co.uk/catalog/images/item1247_1.jpg
When it's opened downward at planing speed the water is sucked out
by the low-pressure area behind the plate. It's important to
remember to close it as the boat slows down ;-]
There are other kinds as well, but they all work on the principle of
low hydrodynamic pressure sucking the water out.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...>
wrote:
bailing, when it's going to be used in calm water?
The immedediate thought that comes to mind is a decked-over hull.
Another kind of self-bailing arrangement is commonly seen on sailing
dinghies that are not decked over (although they usually have
buoyancy tanks). It's a metal plate flush with the bottom. You can
see a picture here:
http://www.seamarknunn.co.uk/catalog/images/item1247_1.jpg
When it's opened downward at planing speed the water is sucked out
by the low-pressure area behind the plate. It's important to
remember to close it as the boat slows down ;-]
There are other kinds as well, but they all work on the principle of
low hydrodynamic pressure sucking the water out.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...>
wrote:
>
> I am looking for plans that meet the folowing
> criteria, and would welcome suggestions from the
> group:
> I want to build a runabout (or console boat, but in
> any case it should accomodate remote steering) of
> around 14', for sheltered lake use, should plane and
> run in the 20knt range with about 30-40 hp max.,
> buildable from sheet ply/epoxy, self-bailing.
>
> Any suggestions? Thanks.
This group never lets me down--what a bunch of neat
boats to look at. Don't no what I'll build yet; the
bonefish concept is too big, but man, would it be fun
to run around in. Thanks, guys. Sam
--- Bruce Hector <bruce_hector@...> wrote:
Yahoo! Sports
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com
boats to look at. Don't no what I'll build yet; the
bonefish concept is too big, but man, would it be fun
to run around in. Thanks, guys. Sam
--- Bruce Hector <bruce_hector@...> wrote:
> If Diablo Grande is self bailing, and it is, the____________________________________________________
> same could be done to
> a Work Skiff or a regular Diablo, no?
>
> The Work Skiff would be more stable with the raised
> deck.
>
> Just MHO.
>
> Bruce Hector
> By the way, TIMS is verrrrrrry stable, add a six
> inch deck with
> scuppers and away you go!
> See the Infinite Modular Sharpie page at:
>http://www.brucesboats.com
>
>
>
Yahoo! Sports
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com
If Diablo Grande is self bailing, and it is, the same could be done to
a Work Skiff or a regular Diablo, no?
The Work Skiff would be more stable with the raised deck.
Just MHO.
Bruce Hector
By the way, TIMS is verrrrrrry stable, add a six inch deck with
scuppers and away you go!
See the Infinite Modular Sharpie page at:
http://www.brucesboats.com
a Work Skiff or a regular Diablo, no?
The Work Skiff would be more stable with the raised deck.
Just MHO.
Bruce Hector
By the way, TIMS is verrrrrrry stable, add a six inch deck with
scuppers and away you go!
See the Infinite Modular Sharpie page at:
http://www.brucesboats.com
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
You wouldn't happen to have the MAIB article for Fast Brick would
you? I subscribe but can't find that issue. Oct 7 2003.
Does it have a self-draining cockpit do you recall?
I would love to see one of those as well:-) Plans $100 as well I
wonder?
Nels
>> The Double Eagle yawlboat #651 might be exactly right, thoughHi Bruce,
> not self-bailing, it does have a canvas awning.
>
>http://hallman.org/bolger/651/
>
> [shows a scan of the excellent article about 651 from my favorite
> magazine Messing About in Boats]
You wouldn't happen to have the MAIB article for Fast Brick would
you? I subscribe but can't find that issue. Oct 7 2003.
Does it have a self-draining cockpit do you recall?
I would love to see one of those as well:-) Plans $100 as well I
wonder?
Nels
On Jul 5, 2005, at 2:26 PM, hal wrote:
deserves to be built.
hal
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>Oops, not self bailing, but it is such a pretty thing it
> On Jul 5, 2005, at 12:59 PM, Sam Glasscock wrote:
>
>
>>
>> I am looking for plans that meet the folowing
>> criteria, and would welcome suggestions from the
>> group:
>> I want to build a runabout (or console boat, but in
>> any case it should accomodate remote steering) of
>> around 14', for sheltered lake use, should plane and
>> run in the 20knt range with about 30-40 hp max.,
>> buildable from sheet ply/epoxy, self-bailing.
>>
>> Any suggestions? Thanks. Sam
>>
>
> The PM38. Hull 200LB, 35MPH on 28HP, length 13' 9, seats two.
>
> The name comes from 38MPH on 38HP for $38. Those are 1962 Dollars.
>
> It's a pretty little boat. I would like to build one myself.
>
> I can e-mail the plans if you like.
>
> hal
deserves to be built.
hal
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hal, I'd love to see the plans for this little boat,
thanks. Sam
--- hal <hl700@...> wrote:
Yahoo! Sports
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com
thanks. Sam
--- hal <hl700@...> wrote:
>____________________________________________________
> On Jul 5, 2005, at 12:59 PM, Sam Glasscock wrote:
>
> >
> > I am looking for plans that meet the folowing
> > criteria, and would welcome suggestions from the
> > group:
> > I want to build a runabout (or console boat, but
> in
> > any case it should accomodate remote steering) of
> > around 14', for sheltered lake use, should plane
> and
> > run in the 20knt range with about 30-40 hp max.,
> > buildable from sheet ply/epoxy, self-bailing.
> >
> > Any suggestions? Thanks. Sam
>
> The PM38. Hull 200LB, 35MPH on 28HP, length 13' 9,
> seats two.
>
> The name comes from 38MPH on 38HP for $38. Those
> are 1962 Dollars.
>
> It's a pretty little boat. I would like to build
> one myself.
>
> I can e-mail the plans if you like.
>
> hal
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
Yahoo! Sports
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com
> Any suggestions? Thanks. SamThe 'Bonefish concept' also comes close to your
needs, but is too big...still a fascinating possibility!
I want one, [but a complete design would delay the Insolent 60]
http://hallman.org/bolger/bonefish.gif
Yet, there is enough info on the MAIB cartoon to build her.
Does anybody know what, precisely, they are describing when they
mention "stock electric clutch"?
It could be easily realized with about 14 sheets of 1/2" MDO and a six or
eight weekends of spare time, $2K of materials [incl. engine] or so.
On Jul 5, 2005, at 12:59 PM, Sam Glasscock wrote:
The name comes from 38MPH on 38HP for $38. Those are 1962 Dollars.
It's a pretty little boat. I would like to build one myself.
I can e-mail the plans if you like.
hal
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>The PM38. Hull 200LB, 35MPH on 28HP, length 13' 9, seats two.
> I am looking for plans that meet the folowing
> criteria, and would welcome suggestions from the
> group:
> I want to build a runabout (or console boat, but in
> any case it should accomodate remote steering) of
> around 14', for sheltered lake use, should plane and
> run in the 20knt range with about 30-40 hp max.,
> buildable from sheet ply/epoxy, self-bailing.
>
> Any suggestions? Thanks. Sam
The name comes from 38MPH on 38HP for $38. Those are 1962 Dollars.
It's a pretty little boat. I would like to build one myself.
I can e-mail the plans if you like.
hal
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Except for the self bailing part the Clam Skiff ala Payson's work skiff kind of fits the bill at 15 1/2 feet.
I cannot think of one self bailing motor boat this size but I'm sure there is one lurking to prove me wrong.
Jon Cassino
This email has been scanned by Norton Anti-Virus prior to being sent to you.
I cannot think of one self bailing motor boat this size but I'm sure there is one lurking to prove me wrong.
Jon Cassino
This email has been scanned by Norton Anti-Virus prior to being sent to you.
----- Original Message -----
From: Sam Glasscock
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2005 2:59 PM
Subject: [bolger] runabout?
I am looking for plans that meet the folowing
criteria, and would welcome suggestions from the
group:
I want to build a runabout (or console boat, but in
any case it should accomodate remote steering) of
around 14', for sheltered lake use, should plane and
run in the 20knt range with about 30-40 hp max.,
buildable from sheet ply/epoxy, self-bailing.
Any suggestions? Thanks. Sam
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
a.. Visit your group "bolger" on the web.
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
A microtrawler is 14'6", and could easily be decked over with
a console [omitting the cabin]. Like a Hawkeye, which is 18'6"
A clam skiff could probably also be 'decked' to make it self-bailing.
The Double Eagle yawlboat #651 might be exactly right, though
not self-bailing, it does have a canvas awning.
http://hallman.org/bolger/651/
[shows a scan of the excellent article about 651 from my favorite
magazine Messing About in Boats]
a console [omitting the cabin]. Like a Hawkeye, which is 18'6"
A clam skiff could probably also be 'decked' to make it self-bailing.
The Double Eagle yawlboat #651 might be exactly right, though
not self-bailing, it does have a canvas awning.
http://hallman.org/bolger/651/
[shows a scan of the excellent article about 651 from my favorite
magazine Messing About in Boats]
> I am looking for plans that meet the folowing
> criteria, Sam
I am looking for plans that meet the folowing
criteria, and would welcome suggestions from the
group:
I want to build a runabout (or console boat, but in
any case it should accomodate remote steering) of
around 14', for sheltered lake use, should plane and
run in the 20knt range with about 30-40 hp max.,
buildable from sheet ply/epoxy, self-bailing.
Any suggestions? Thanks. Sam
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
criteria, and would welcome suggestions from the
group:
I want to build a runabout (or console boat, but in
any case it should accomodate remote steering) of
around 14', for sheltered lake use, should plane and
run in the 20knt range with about 30-40 hp max.,
buildable from sheet ply/epoxy, self-bailing.
Any suggestions? Thanks. Sam
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
> > Superbrick Yawl rig.I think that Bolger chose the Lateen rig for the 19' Superbrick because
the hull is so short and the rig so simple. Yawls, Schooners and
Ketches etc. normally fit better on longer hulls [I deduce.]
The Lateen Rig works so great on my Tortoise, I would expect it to
work great on Superbrick too. Ain't broke, don't fix it...
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
or even rig #49.
Nels
> >http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/vwp?.dir=/&.dnm=Superbric
> > k+Yawl.jpg&.src=gr&.view=t&.hires=ttop
> Superbrick Yawl rig.
>
> The mizzen sail in your sketch has no boomkin to sheet from, and the
> gaff of the mizzen has no mast height for it's peak and throathalyards.
> Unless you mean for the top gaff to be a sprit, then the forward endof the
> sprit should extend forward of the mast, and it would come close toA mizzen like rig 43 in 100 SBR would maybe work sheeted like Chebacco
> fouling on the mainsail. If you use a tortoise lateen rig, it's tack
> too might foul
> on the mainsail.
or even rig #49.
Nels
>http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/vwp?.dir=/&.dnm=SuperbricSuperbrick Yawl rig.
> k+Yawl.jpg&.src=gr&.view=t&.hires=t
The mizzen sail in your sketch has no boomkin to sheet from, and the top
gaff of the mizzen has no mast height for it's peak and throat halyards.
Unless you mean for the top gaff to be a sprit, then the forward end of the
sprit should extend forward of the mast, and it would come close to
fouling on the mainsail. If you use a tortoise lateen rig, it's tack
too might foul
on the mainsail.
I am intregued by this boat and the posibilities using it for places
like the 10,000 islands or west coast of florida.
If you look at photo number 59 you will see my proposed change to
the super brick. Of course if I were to build this modified version,
I would get the designers input first.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/vwp?.dir=/&.dnm=Superbric
k+Yawl.jpg&.src=gr&.view=t&.hires=t
If you built the tortoise as a tender you have no place to store
the sail while under way, the tortoise being stored on the foredeck,
what if: you shortend the main and added a partner or tabernacle to
place the tortoise mast in line with the main at the after end of
the boat, thus making a ketch or yawl.
That lanteen main is huge, I think.
The actual square foot is 232
Foot 18 feet
Leech 26' 2"
Luff 29
Mast 14'
Square feet 232'
Tortoise numbers would be
Foot 8' 1"
Leech 9' 10"
Luff 10' 10"
Square feet 38
Mast 7' may need to be stronger for this use
As you can see in the photo, I have reduced the main boom from 19'
6" (same length as boat) to about 16' and adjust the other
dimensions keeping the same proportions.
Foot 14.5
Leech 21'5"
Luff 23' 9" more or less
Yielding around 190 square feet main and 38 from tortoise yields
about 228 square feet.
Just looking at a place to store the tortoise sail and thought that
you might as well use it when under way, as to laying in the deck.
like the 10,000 islands or west coast of florida.
If you look at photo number 59 you will see my proposed change to
the super brick. Of course if I were to build this modified version,
I would get the designers input first.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/vwp?.dir=/&.dnm=Superbric
k+Yawl.jpg&.src=gr&.view=t&.hires=t
If you built the tortoise as a tender you have no place to store
the sail while under way, the tortoise being stored on the foredeck,
what if: you shortend the main and added a partner or tabernacle to
place the tortoise mast in line with the main at the after end of
the boat, thus making a ketch or yawl.
That lanteen main is huge, I think.
The actual square foot is 232
Foot 18 feet
Leech 26' 2"
Luff 29
Mast 14'
Square feet 232'
Tortoise numbers would be
Foot 8' 1"
Leech 9' 10"
Luff 10' 10"
Square feet 38
Mast 7' may need to be stronger for this use
As you can see in the photo, I have reduced the main boom from 19'
6" (same length as boat) to about 16' and adjust the other
dimensions keeping the same proportions.
Foot 14.5
Leech 21'5"
Luff 23' 9" more or less
Yielding around 190 square feet main and 38 from tortoise yields
about 228 square feet.
Just looking at a place to store the tortoise sail and thought that
you might as well use it when under way, as to laying in the deck.