Re: Asking for advice,
A 3/4" gap is big enough to shim with wood. I would cut a piece of
similar wood keeping the grain in the same direction as the original
piece Try to match the angle and width, but if the angle is off a
little or the piece is not quite as wide as the gap, don't worry
about it. Clamp a support piece under the work area if necessary. Put
plastic carton sealing tape on it if you don't want it to be part of
the finished structure. Coat the edges to be mated with unthickened
epoxy, wait a while for it to soak in, then coat the mating surfaces
with thickened epoxy and slide in the filler piece. Most likely the
epoxy in the joints will begin to sink after a while. If it does,use
a small syringe filled with thickened epoxy and put a bead along each
joint. Wipe the adjacent areas with acetone or vinegar before the
epoxy cures to save on sanding later. When it is cured about
fingernail hard, or a little less, remove the support. and scrape off
any epoxy above the surfaces. You will end up with an almost
invisible repair requiring little or no sanding.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
wrote:
similar wood keeping the grain in the same direction as the original
piece Try to match the angle and width, but if the angle is off a
little or the piece is not quite as wide as the gap, don't worry
about it. Clamp a support piece under the work area if necessary. Put
plastic carton sealing tape on it if you don't want it to be part of
the finished structure. Coat the edges to be mated with unthickened
epoxy, wait a while for it to soak in, then coat the mating surfaces
with thickened epoxy and slide in the filler piece. Most likely the
epoxy in the joints will begin to sink after a while. If it does,use
a small syringe filled with thickened epoxy and put a bead along each
joint. Wipe the adjacent areas with acetone or vinegar before the
epoxy cures to save on sanding later. When it is cured about
fingernail hard, or a little less, remove the support. and scrape off
any epoxy above the surfaces. You will end up with an almost
invisible repair requiring little or no sanding.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
wrote:
> 3/4" gaps!well
>
> That's great carpentry from my level of skill. And of course, it's
> within "epoxy range". Any gap that can be bridged with 6 inchmy
> fiberglass tape is within epoxy range.
>
> One several of my "boats" I've had pre bogging gaps I cpould lose
> can of beer through!from
>
> Get out the duct tape, lay it over the gap, and bog and glass it
> the inside. Next day, take of the tape and do the same from thelike
> outside, heaping the epoxy/wood flour/whatever bonding filler you
> up good in a mound. Later sand or grind down to the correctcontour,
> or somewhere reasonably close et Voila, a nice strong seam.Stronger
> in fact than if you had a nice tight contact fit in the first place.
>
> Bruce Hector
> Full speed ahead Lenihan and pass the bloddy bog!
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
wrote:
always thought epoxy was indeed noted for its' gap filing properties
but can't recall ever reading anything about gorges,fiords,canyons
and raveens :-) If a"gap" is found to be bigger then the width of a
common pencil(1/4"?), I would humbly suggest re-measuring and re-
cutting a better fitting piece. If funds are tight or budget simply
busted,then go ahead and "patch" or fill with more epoxy. Keep in
mind however,epoxy is far more expensive then wood and is intended
to be the glue that holds a structure together,not the other way
around :-)
Sincerely,
Peter,"Le Gris",Lenihan, worried that BBB(Big Bad Bruce) has been
chewing on the lees at the bottom of his Maudit bottles attempting
to tweek his buzz upward.....:-D
wrote:
> 3/4" gaps!, it's well
> within "epoxy range". Any gap that can be bridged with 6 inchBeen double dipping in that Maudit from your last visit,I see! I
> fiberglass tape is within epoxy range.
> Bruce Hector
> Full speed ahead Lenihan and pass the bloddy bog!
always thought epoxy was indeed noted for its' gap filing properties
but can't recall ever reading anything about gorges,fiords,canyons
and raveens :-) If a"gap" is found to be bigger then the width of a
common pencil(1/4"?), I would humbly suggest re-measuring and re-
cutting a better fitting piece. If funds are tight or budget simply
busted,then go ahead and "patch" or fill with more epoxy. Keep in
mind however,epoxy is far more expensive then wood and is intended
to be the glue that holds a structure together,not the other way
around :-)
Sincerely,
Peter,"Le Gris",Lenihan, worried that BBB(Big Bad Bruce) has been
chewing on the lees at the bottom of his Maudit bottles attempting
to tweek his buzz upward.....:-D
John -
3/4"? not bad! Here is what I do when fixing small holes (up to 2")
on Pointy Skiff, and with the gaps that occured when building Diablo.
1. duct tape a piece of heavy plastic over the outside joint to use
as a release film. Be sure it is as fair as possible over the
exterior chine area.
2. Apply putty and a layer of glass to the inside of the hole. Smooth
it out, as you are the one who is going to have to look at this side
of the boat as a constant reminder of it.
3. Remove the film from the outside and fill the uneven spots with
putty
4. sand until it looks fair to your eye.
By "putty" I am referring to epoxy types. Please do not use bondo
below the waterline or anywhere where it might get very wet. It will
deteriorate with time and Murphy will have a say as to when it will
fail. West makes various types of compounds. I like 407 for most work
as it sands quite easily.
David Jost
3/4"? not bad! Here is what I do when fixing small holes (up to 2")
on Pointy Skiff, and with the gaps that occured when building Diablo.
1. duct tape a piece of heavy plastic over the outside joint to use
as a release film. Be sure it is as fair as possible over the
exterior chine area.
2. Apply putty and a layer of glass to the inside of the hole. Smooth
it out, as you are the one who is going to have to look at this side
of the boat as a constant reminder of it.
3. Remove the film from the outside and fill the uneven spots with
putty
4. sand until it looks fair to your eye.
By "putty" I am referring to epoxy types. Please do not use bondo
below the waterline or anywhere where it might get very wet. It will
deteriorate with time and Murphy will have a say as to when it will
fail. West makes various types of compounds. I like 407 for most work
as it sands quite easily.
David Jost
3/4" gaps!
That's great carpentry from my level of skill. And of course, it's well
within "epoxy range". Any gap that can be bridged with 6 inch
fiberglass tape is within epoxy range.
One several of my "boats" I've had pre bogging gaps I cpould lose my
can of beer through!
Get out the duct tape, lay it over the gap, and bog and glass it from
the inside. Next day, take of the tape and do the same from the
outside, heaping the epoxy/wood flour/whatever bonding filler you like
up good in a mound. Later sand or grind down to the correct contour,
or somewhere reasonably close et Voila, a nice strong seam. Stronger
in fact than if you had a nice tight contact fit in the first place.
Bruce Hector
Full speed ahead Lenihan and pass the bloddy bog!
That's great carpentry from my level of skill. And of course, it's well
within "epoxy range". Any gap that can be bridged with 6 inch
fiberglass tape is within epoxy range.
One several of my "boats" I've had pre bogging gaps I cpould lose my
can of beer through!
Get out the duct tape, lay it over the gap, and bog and glass it from
the inside. Next day, take of the tape and do the same from the
outside, heaping the epoxy/wood flour/whatever bonding filler you like
up good in a mound. Later sand or grind down to the correct contour,
or somewhere reasonably close et Voila, a nice strong seam. Stronger
in fact than if you had a nice tight contact fit in the first place.
Bruce Hector
Full speed ahead Lenihan and pass the bloddy bog!
It's not easy to advise without knowing the dimensions -- length and
width -- of the gaps, but you can fix up just about any mistake. If the
gap is large, you could stitch and glue an extra piece of plywood. If
it's smaller, you could use fibreglass tape and epoxy resin, perhaps
with some kind of temporary mould backing up the glass. The mould could
be ply or even cardboard, covered in polythene film so the resin
doesn't stick to it.
As a rather poor carpenter, I'm speaking from experience.
Howard
,--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, catboat15@a... wrote:
width -- of the gaps, but you can fix up just about any mistake. If the
gap is large, you could stitch and glue an extra piece of plywood. If
it's smaller, you could use fibreglass tape and epoxy resin, perhaps
with some kind of temporary mould backing up the glass. The mould could
be ply or even cardboard, covered in polythene film so the resin
doesn't stick to it.
As a rather poor carpenter, I'm speaking from experience.
Howard
,--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, catboat15@a... wrote:
> What is a good way to fill some gaps between panels on one of Boger'stack and tape boats?
What is a good way to fill some gaps between panels on one of Boger's tack
and tape boats?
Somehow when my bifocals didn't bi or didn't focus or something I lost a cut
line and ended up with some irregular gaps up to about 3/4 inch wide between
panels on my Cartopper. Should I just glass tape over the gaps, try to fill
them with thickened epoxy, try to fit splinters of wood in there, bondo, or
just run the tape and epoxy over the gaps on both sides.
I tried the splinters but no joy in the desert tonight. This is just one
seam between the bottom and bilge panels (the error is on one side of the bottom
panel) I have taped and epoxied the inside seams, leaving an inch or so free
at bulkheads so I can cut them down and open the limber holes when taping is
done. So now sanding on the outside when I found those gaps did not stay
filled with the splinters I cut from scrap ply even with the tape on the inside.
Help please.
Right now, thinking of just taping and filling the seams on the outside then
go back in and fill those errors.
I don't want to be out in the middle of the bay and look down and see water
instead of painted wood when that mis-mached seam decides to open up.
Is this time for the "Moaning Chair" or is there a routine fix?
John Meacham
High desert of California
Bolger Cartopper.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
and tape boats?
Somehow when my bifocals didn't bi or didn't focus or something I lost a cut
line and ended up with some irregular gaps up to about 3/4 inch wide between
panels on my Cartopper. Should I just glass tape over the gaps, try to fill
them with thickened epoxy, try to fit splinters of wood in there, bondo, or
just run the tape and epoxy over the gaps on both sides.
I tried the splinters but no joy in the desert tonight. This is just one
seam between the bottom and bilge panels (the error is on one side of the bottom
panel) I have taped and epoxied the inside seams, leaving an inch or so free
at bulkheads so I can cut them down and open the limber holes when taping is
done. So now sanding on the outside when I found those gaps did not stay
filled with the splinters I cut from scrap ply even with the tape on the inside.
Help please.
Right now, thinking of just taping and filling the seams on the outside then
go back in and fill those errors.
I don't want to be out in the middle of the bay and look down and see water
instead of painted wood when that mis-mached seam decides to open up.
Is this time for the "Moaning Chair" or is there a routine fix?
John Meacham
High desert of California
Bolger Cartopper.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]