Re: [bolger] Fast Brick?
> I heard a rumor you were planning on living aboard in Juneau thisThe Bolger articles mention that Double Eagle was intended
> winter. Any truth to that?
for 'charter', is that true?
Fritz
You still on for launching this summer? We need to plan vacation time
around getting to Gustavus. I bet this weather isn't helping any.
I heard a rumor you were planning on living aboard in Juneau this
winter. Any truth to that?
HJ
fritzdfk wrote:
You still on for launching this summer? We need to plan vacation time
around getting to Gustavus. I bet this weather isn't helping any.
I heard a rumor you were planning on living aboard in Juneau this
winter. Any truth to that?
HJ
fritzdfk wrote:
>A while ago there was someone building a Fast Brick who posted some
>photos. Has the boat been completed? Any new photos? I will be building
>one for Double Eagle this winter. Mine will need to be narrower by a
>few inches and 10' long.
>
>fritz koschmann
>
>
>
>
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> copyright.I think that Wikipedia has an excellent resource about copyright
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copyright
In 1985, at least, Bolger wrote about building from
plans in his books, which I read as him allowing such.
http://hallman.org/bolger/Poohsticks_plans.gif
All of Bolger's books (except the one about small boat sailing rigs)
present plans complete enough to allow boats to be built from them.
Mostly there are offsets or panel dimensions. Sometimes the complete
plan key (a couple of pages or so) is reproduced.
However by the time he got to writing BWAOM he omitted much of the
detail, particularly for newer designs such as Micro, Breakdown
Schooner and Martha Jane. The decision either to provide full
details or not cannot have been accidental. My impression is that he
was not too concerned about royalties earlier on because the designs
were either commissioned (and a fee paid for them), were superseded
by improved designs or were experiments that in many cases were not
entirely successful, by his own admission. In recent years he's been
thinking about an income stream in retirement -- and why not?
Having bought seven Bolger books, including two copies of BWAOM,
plus one of Payson's, I'd still sleep at night if I decided to build
something from one of the books.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Probst" <stefan.probst@o...>
wrote:
present plans complete enough to allow boats to be built from them.
Mostly there are offsets or panel dimensions. Sometimes the complete
plan key (a couple of pages or so) is reproduced.
However by the time he got to writing BWAOM he omitted much of the
detail, particularly for newer designs such as Micro, Breakdown
Schooner and Martha Jane. The decision either to provide full
details or not cannot have been accidental. My impression is that he
was not too concerned about royalties earlier on because the designs
were either commissioned (and a fee paid for them), were superseded
by improved designs or were experiments that in many cases were not
entirely successful, by his own admission. In recent years he's been
thinking about an income stream in retirement -- and why not?
Having bought seven Bolger books, including two copies of BWAOM,
plus one of Payson's, I'd still sleep at night if I decided to build
something from one of the books.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Probst" <stefan.probst@o...>
wrote:
> Why would Payson write that people can build boats from thedesigns in
> his book, if Bolger would not agree to that?
--- "donschultz8275" <donschultz@i...> wrote:
But as far as I remember, Bolger allows to build boats from his
cartoons etc. without paying fees. I don't think that I dreamt about
that, but couldn't find the source anymore. Somebody who knows better:
Pls. help.
I found however e.g. Payson's description on his site about his book.
There he writes:
"Supplementing the 6 designs in the first book is a whole new
generation of 11 plywood boats with even more variety: 11 hassle-free
new designs that you can build in a week's time from precomputed plans."
The 11 designs are - as far as I can tell - Bolger designs.
Why would Payson write that people can build boats from the designs in
his book, if Bolger would not agree to that?
(mainly) for is the right to build one Hawkeye.
I can buy scores of a piece of music, but am still not allowed to
perform it for profit.
build a boat.
Regarding the copyright to the plan: I think if they copy it only for
personal use (not boatbuilding for profit), then it should be "fair use".
Regarding the license to build a boat: Not necessarily an
infringement. This would depend on the license conditions of the
"license to build one boat" for what you paid the fee when you paid to
Bolger. I don't know whether this right is transferable, or not.
Bottom line: Buying plans for Hawkeye is a noble gesture, but legally
speaking no right to build something else. The question is, whether
Bolger asks for fees, if somebody builds one of his designs just after
the sketches, cartoons, study plans, ...
As far as I remember: no.
Stefan
> I sure don't understand that. Bolger makes it clear in some of theIn principle, yes.
> archived posts to this listserver that he owns all the rights to all
> his designs and design ideas. I think that when I build Bonefish, I
> owe Bolger for his work.
But as far as I remember, Bolger allows to build boats from his
cartoons etc. without paying fees. I don't think that I dreamt about
that, but couldn't find the source anymore. Somebody who knows better:
Pls. help.
I found however e.g. Payson's description on his site about his book.
There he writes:
"Supplementing the 6 designs in the first book is a whole new
generation of 11 plywood boats with even more variety: 11 hassle-free
new designs that you can build in a week's time from precomputed plans."
The 11 designs are - as far as I can tell - Bolger designs.
Why would Payson write that people can build boats from the designs in
his book, if Bolger would not agree to that?
> I also think I've paid for it by buying Hawkeye plans.What you paid is for some sheets of paper (called "plans") and
(mainly) for is the right to build one Hawkeye.
> However, since I own an original printed copy of BWAOM,I think, buying a book does not give any rights to the content.
> if I wanted to build a Clam Skiff from the drawings provided,
> I could do so legally.
I can buy scores of a piece of music, but am still not allowed to
perform it for profit.
> However, if someone borrowed my copy and xerox'd the pages,Those are two issues: The copyright to the plan, and the right to
> and built the boat, IMO they have violated the copyright.
build a boat.
Regarding the copyright to the plan: I think if they copy it only for
personal use (not boatbuilding for profit), then it should be "fair use".
Regarding the license to build a boat: Not necessarily an
infringement. This would depend on the license conditions of the
"license to build one boat" for what you paid the fee when you paid to
Bolger. I don't know whether this right is transferable, or not.
Bottom line: Buying plans for Hawkeye is a noble gesture, but legally
speaking no right to build something else. The question is, whether
Bolger asks for fees, if somebody builds one of his designs just after
the sketches, cartoons, study plans, ...
As far as I remember: no.
Stefan
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Probst" <stefan.probst@o...>
> wrote:
>
> > As far as I understand, Bolger has no objections if somebody builds a
> > boat according to sketches, cartoons, etc., or even according to one
> > of his books. No need for a license there. Only the fully developed
> > designs (i.e. if somebody uses his full plans) need a license "to
> > build one boat".
I sure don't understand that. Bolger makes it clear in some of the
archived posts to this listserver that he owns all the rights to all
his designs and design ideas. I think that when I build Bonefish, I
owe Bolger for his work. I also think I've paid for it by buying
Hawkeye plans. Lastly, I'd understand if he was unhappy with me
calling the results a Bolger design, and I won't contact him for
support in building something other than the plans boat.
However, since I own an original printed copy of BWAOM, if I wanted to
build a Clam Skiff from the drawings provided, I could do so legally.
However, if someone borrowed my copy and xerox'd the pages, and built
the boat, IMO they have violated the copyright.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Probst" <stefan.probst@o...>
wrote:
archived posts to this listserver that he owns all the rights to all
his designs and design ideas. I think that when I build Bonefish, I
owe Bolger for his work. I also think I've paid for it by buying
Hawkeye plans. Lastly, I'd understand if he was unhappy with me
calling the results a Bolger design, and I won't contact him for
support in building something other than the plans boat.
However, since I own an original printed copy of BWAOM, if I wanted to
build a Clam Skiff from the drawings provided, I could do so legally.
However, if someone borrowed my copy and xerox'd the pages, and built
the boat, IMO they have violated the copyright.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Probst" <stefan.probst@o...>
wrote:
> As far as I understand, Bolger has no objections if somebody builds a
> boat according to sketches, cartoons, etc., or even according to one
> of his books. No need for a license there. Only the fully developed
> designs (i.e. if somebody uses his full plans) need a license "to
> build one boat".
It is also called a box KEEL. I think that may be the key word in
describing the functionality of the design. It is a keel like that of
a micro, but with enough beam to the keel itself to be more useful.
He had a modified Brick built w' the box keel as a proof of concept
sailing vessel. The prototype ended up with a design # and is
available to build. I don't remember details of the results, but
Bolger was happy.
Don
describing the functionality of the design. It is a keel like that of
a micro, but with enough beam to the keel itself to be more useful.
He had a modified Brick built w' the box keel as a proof of concept
sailing vessel. The prototype ended up with a design # and is
available to build. I don't remember details of the results, but
Bolger was happy.
Don
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
> > I am curious about the cutaway design on the Col Hasler.
> > Martin
Point by point comments below.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Martin Roberts"
<martin.me.roberts@b...> wrote:
personal choice.
learning curve associated with such metal work quickly. I'm not a
really good welder, but I can effectively stick steel parts to one
another. I suspect just doing a boat sized project would make me a
much better welder.
One could easily put a battery/alternator welder on the diesel engine
of any boat with a long set of cables able to reach every where on
the boat (including underneath during a dryout) to effect a variety
of repairs. Another effective solution would be to carry
oxy/acetylene tanks, which adds significant cutting and metal forming
capability to welding. I can't gas weld well at all, so I'd like
both.
One would also need a small grinder, a couple of big hammers, and
some clamps/visegrips. 110vdc is available from some of the engine
mounted welders to power the grinder and other power tools with
brushed commutator motors.
Don
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Martin Roberts"
<martin.me.roberts@b...> wrote:
> Bruce wrote:IMO that is something one would find appealing or appalling. Very
>
> > ...and what are the virtues of singlehanded
> > passagemaking?
personal choice.
> I like the idea of steel on the basis of strength but prefer ply onIMO most skilled wood workers could overcome the predjudice and
> the basis of weight and I could probably handle repairs in wood.
learning curve associated with such metal work quickly. I'm not a
really good welder, but I can effectively stick steel parts to one
another. I suspect just doing a boat sized project would make me a
much better welder.
One could easily put a battery/alternator welder on the diesel engine
of any boat with a long set of cables able to reach every where on
the boat (including underneath during a dryout) to effect a variety
of repairs. Another effective solution would be to carry
oxy/acetylene tanks, which adds significant cutting and metal forming
capability to welding. I can't gas weld well at all, so I'd like
both.
One would also need a small grinder, a couple of big hammers, and
some clamps/visegrips. 110vdc is available from some of the engine
mounted welders to power the grinder and other power tools with
brushed commutator motors.
Don
--- "donschultz8275" <donschultz@i...> wrote:
boat according to sketches, cartoons, etc., or even according to one
of his books. No need for a license there. Only the fully developed
designs (i.e. if somebody uses his full plans) need a license "to
build one boat".
Cheers,
Stefan
> I'll use the Hawkeye plans and 'license' to build one boatAs far as I understand, Bolger has no objections if somebody builds a
> as a guide.
boat according to sketches, cartoons, etc., or even according to one
of his books. No need for a license there. Only the fully developed
designs (i.e. if somebody uses his full plans) need a license "to
build one boat".
Cheers,
Stefan
I'd define the structure this way. Fast Brick and Fast Motor Sailer
have a cutwater fitted on the upswept fwd portion of the bow. I
provides some buoyancy and a fine entry for the bow.
SMS, Col. Hasler, Shady Lady, Delaware, Bonefish, MicroTrawler,
Hawkeye, have a box keel. I see the box keel as a 6:1 or greater
sharpie hull attached to the bottom of a shorter 'fat' hull with its
convenient load carrying capability. This is certainly how it works
for the MT class planing hulls.
Also, re a plywood Col. Hasler, seems to me SMS is exactly that as far
as the hull is concerned. Interior outfitting is the primary
difference.
It should be possible to take the sketches of FMS and project them
with Hulls, and build an S&G version. While this would duplicate the
shape, it would NOT mean the boat would have the mechanical strength
to withstand the rigors of serious weather. It takes PCB&F's
expertise to have that assurance.
While we don't know for sure what Bolger is doing these days that
keeps him from taking on more work, it seems likely to me we must
accept that he may well be at the end of his creative/productive time
as a ship architect.
That's why I decided to move ahead on Bonefish without asking Bolger
to complete the design. In fact I'll build a Hawkeye shaped like a
Bonefish. I'll use the Hawkeye plans and 'license' to build one boat
as a guide. I'll document what I build, and send it to Bolger. I'll
leave it to him to clean up my work and publish.
Don
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Martin Roberts"
martin.me.roberts@b...> wrote:
have a cutwater fitted on the upswept fwd portion of the bow. I
provides some buoyancy and a fine entry for the bow.
SMS, Col. Hasler, Shady Lady, Delaware, Bonefish, MicroTrawler,
Hawkeye, have a box keel. I see the box keel as a 6:1 or greater
sharpie hull attached to the bottom of a shorter 'fat' hull with its
convenient load carrying capability. This is certainly how it works
for the MT class planing hulls.
Also, re a plywood Col. Hasler, seems to me SMS is exactly that as far
as the hull is concerned. Interior outfitting is the primary
difference.
It should be possible to take the sketches of FMS and project them
with Hulls, and build an S&G version. While this would duplicate the
shape, it would NOT mean the boat would have the mechanical strength
to withstand the rigors of serious weather. It takes PCB&F's
expertise to have that assurance.
While we don't know for sure what Bolger is doing these days that
keeps him from taking on more work, it seems likely to me we must
accept that he may well be at the end of his creative/productive time
as a ship architect.
That's why I decided to move ahead on Bonefish without asking Bolger
to complete the design. In fact I'll build a Hawkeye shaped like a
Bonefish. I'll use the Hawkeye plans and 'license' to build one boat
as a guide. I'll document what I build, and send it to Bolger. I'll
leave it to him to clean up my work and publish.
Don
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Martin Roberts"
martin.me.roberts@b...> wrote:
> Thanks, so its called a cutwater?.....
> I wondered if it would be possible to build it of Ply?
Bruce wrote:
challenge and the limit is 30ft, so a slightly larger Hasler would be
interesting. May be 25-29ft. perhaps the hasler could simply be
stretched?
I like the idea of steel on the basis of strength but prefer ply on
the basis of weight and I could probably handle repairs in wood.
The virtues of single handed passage making I think is a very personal
thing. My family do not seem that interested in sailing. I enjoy it
and the solitude and resilence required in this nanny world are still
intriguing. With more people you have to trust them! In itself I
thinking learning to trust makes us better people, but sometimes that
is just too difficult.
One other reservation I have for the Col Hasler is that I am not a fan
of the Chinese Gaff. Therefore having a few extra feet to allow the
main mast to be set back from the bow would be good. I will explain
my feelings on the rig another time.
Martin
>The question of length is interesting. I would like to do the Jester
> Although the steel Hassler intrigues me too!
> I keep coming back to the question of why limit
> to 20 ft LOA?
> ...and what are the virtues of singlehanded
> passagemaking?
challenge and the limit is 30ft, so a slightly larger Hasler would be
interesting. May be 25-29ft. perhaps the hasler could simply be
stretched?
I like the idea of steel on the basis of strength but prefer ply on
the basis of weight and I could probably handle repairs in wood.
The virtues of single handed passage making I think is a very personal
thing. My family do not seem that interested in sailing. I enjoy it
and the solitude and resilence required in this nanny world are still
intriguing. With more people you have to trust them! In itself I
thinking learning to trust makes us better people, but sometimes that
is just too difficult.
One other reservation I have for the Col Hasler is that I am not a fan
of the Chinese Gaff. Therefore having a few extra feet to allow the
main mast to be set back from the bow would be good. I will explain
my feelings on the rig another time.
Martin
On 7/21/05, Martin Roberts <martin.me.roberts@...> wrote:
redoing the Hassler in plywood, but didn't know when they
would get around to it, and he wrote that the conversion is
more complex than it might appear.
Although the steel Hassler intrigues me too!
I keep coming back to the question of why limit
to 20 ft LOA?
...and what are the virtues of singlehanded
passagemaking?
> Thanks, so its called a cutwater? Has anyone actually built theOne has not been built. PCB wrote me that they are contemplating
> Hasler. It is a design that really intrigues me. I wondered if it
> would be possible to build it of Ply?
> Martin
redoing the Hassler in plywood, but didn't know when they
would get around to it, and he wrote that the conversion is
more complex than it might appear.
Although the steel Hassler intrigues me too!
I keep coming back to the question of why limit
to 20 ft LOA?
...and what are the virtues of singlehanded
passagemaking?
Thanks, so its called a cutwater? Has anyone actually built the
Hasler. It is a design that really intrigues me. I wondered if it
would be possible to build it of Ply?
Martin
Hasler. It is a design that really intrigues me. I wondered if it
would be possible to build it of Ply?
Martin
Also the extension of the box keel all the way forward
adds some dispalcement under the bow while still
alowing a fine entry, as I recall Bolge's explanation
for these designs.
--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote:
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses.
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
adds some dispalcement under the bow while still
alowing a fine entry, as I recall Bolge's explanation
for these designs.
--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote:
> > I am curious about the cutaway design on the Col__________________________________
> Hasler.
> > Martin
>
> I think that the full length cutwater improves the
> ability of the
> hull to spread out the displacement wave generated
> by the hull
> making it track more effeciently through the water,
> and in the
> case of the Col. Hassler at least, the depth of the
> box
> gives headroom for walking up and down the cabin.
>
> Bolger has done some experiments to validate his
> theory
> about this, I understand.
>
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses.
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
> I am curious about the cutaway design on the Col Hasler.I think that the full length cutwater improves the ability of the
> Martin
hull to spread out the displacement wave generated by the hull
making it track more effeciently through the water, and in the
case of the Col. Hassler at least, the depth of the box
gives headroom for walking up and down the cabin.
Bolger has done some experiments to validate his theory
about this, I understand.
bruce et al
I am curious about the cutaway design on the Col Hasler. Could some
one detail what wouldbe achieved by this extra part of hull. You
would still get slap from the falt part and there is no angle on the
'lower' hull' so I am not sure what it achieves. I obviously trust
that Phil had some logical reason for it, but I would like to know
what it is.
Martin
I am curious about the cutaway design on the Col Hasler. Could some
one detail what wouldbe achieved by this extra part of hull. You
would still get slap from the falt part and there is no angle on the
'lower' hull' so I am not sure what it achieves. I obviously trust
that Phil had some logical reason for it, but I would like to know
what it is.
Martin
On 7/21/05, mark <planzman@...> wrote:
"April 6, 2005
Dear Bruce,
Thanks for yours of 4/1/05. Plans of Superbrick Design #559, are
available for $200.00 to build one boat, sent priority mail, rolled in
a tube. I continue to like it though it seems unlikely that it is a
good investment... .
The proposed narrowed bottom may be an improvement, though I think it
has to be 6'6" not 7'0", to work as suggested, and I have not (and
can't anytime soon, as we're at full stretch to exhaustion with work)
looked at the consequences to the cabin and construction. On the
whole, I'd be inclined to build it as designed or (probably smarter)
not at all. It would at any rate fit your old Sausalito houseboat
culture!
Sincerely Phil Bolger"
> kool, let us know if he writes back on the super brick change.This was his reply to me:
"April 6, 2005
Dear Bruce,
Thanks for yours of 4/1/05. Plans of Superbrick Design #559, are
available for $200.00 to build one boat, sent priority mail, rolled in
a tube. I continue to like it though it seems unlikely that it is a
good investment... .
The proposed narrowed bottom may be an improvement, though I think it
has to be 6'6" not 7'0", to work as suggested, and I have not (and
can't anytime soon, as we're at full stretch to exhaustion with work)
looked at the consequences to the cabin and construction. On the
whole, I'd be inclined to build it as designed or (probably smarter)
not at all. It would at any rate fit your old Sausalito houseboat
culture!
Sincerely Phil Bolger"
kool, let us know if he writes back on the super brick change.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
> On 7/20/05, mark <planzman@y...> wrote:
> > why add the cutwater?
> To give the bow lift when it encounters a wave,
> and to improve its planing charactoristics.
>
> > Could you do that to a Super Brick as well?
>
> Not so easy. Fast brick has a flat run aft where
> Superbrick has none. Also, bear in mind that
> the buoyancy of a cutwater would need to be
> ballasted, which could amount to a big deal
> in a Superbrick.
>
> I think a cutwater on a Fiddler II makes more
> sense.
>http://hallman.org/bolger/391/
>http://hallman.org/bolger/391/391a.gif
>
> ======
>
>http://hallman.org/bolger/Superbrick/alt2.gif
>
> I showed this sketch to PCB and he wrote
> back that it might be an improvement, but that
> the consequences on the interior joinerwork
> needed to be studied.
>
> It would have the advantage of making the
> Superbrick require less ballast, and making
> it sit more easily between the wheels of a
> trailer.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "mark" <planzman@y...> wrote:
chop and prevents pounding while the sloping pram bow rises to the big
waves. PCB&F do not consider this as anything new or radical as the
Japanese and Chinese have been doing it for ages.
On the more sphisticated designs like the Colonel Hasler there is some
deadrise built in to the bow section/cutwater joint, so that the waves
would be deflected outward. In the Bricks you might get a huge splash
when she comes down off a big wave and throws spray over the bow
Like Bruce mentions there might have to be some flattening of the run
aft or a built in swim platform back there to stop the bow from rising
too high.
Nels
> why add the cutwater? not knocking it, just axing?I think it could be added to Super Brick. The cutwater cuts through
> Could you do that to a Super Brick as well?
chop and prevents pounding while the sloping pram bow rises to the big
waves. PCB&F do not consider this as anything new or radical as the
Japanese and Chinese have been doing it for ages.
On the more sphisticated designs like the Colonel Hasler there is some
deadrise built in to the bow section/cutwater joint, so that the waves
would be deflected outward. In the Bricks you might get a huge splash
when she comes down off a big wave and throws spray over the bow
Like Bruce mentions there might have to be some flattening of the run
aft or a built in swim platform back there to stop the bow from rising
too high.
Nels
On 7/20/05, mark <planzman@...> wrote:
and to improve its planing charactoristics.
Superbrick has none. Also, bear in mind that
the buoyancy of a cutwater would need to be
ballasted, which could amount to a big deal
in a Superbrick.
I think a cutwater on a Fiddler II makes more
sense.
http://hallman.org/bolger/391/
http://hallman.org/bolger/391/391a.gif
======
http://hallman.org/bolger/Superbrick/alt2.gif
I showed this sketch to PCB and he wrote
back that it might be an improvement, but that
the consequences on the interior joinerwork
needed to be studied.
It would have the advantage of making the
Superbrick require less ballast, and making
it sit more easily between the wheels of a
trailer.
> why add the cutwater?To give the bow lift when it encounters a wave,
and to improve its planing charactoristics.
> Could you do that to a Super Brick as well?Not so easy. Fast brick has a flat run aft where
Superbrick has none. Also, bear in mind that
the buoyancy of a cutwater would need to be
ballasted, which could amount to a big deal
in a Superbrick.
I think a cutwater on a Fiddler II makes more
sense.
http://hallman.org/bolger/391/
http://hallman.org/bolger/391/391a.gif
======
http://hallman.org/bolger/Superbrick/alt2.gif
I showed this sketch to PCB and he wrote
back that it might be an improvement, but that
the consequences on the interior joinerwork
needed to be studied.
It would have the advantage of making the
Superbrick require less ballast, and making
it sit more easily between the wheels of a
trailer.
why add the cutwater? not knocking it, just axing?
Could you do that to a Super Brick as well?
Could you do that to a Super Brick as well?
> > What is a fast brick?You see it on a lot of the newer Bolger 'big boats'
as a lifeboat/tender. I see one on the afterdeck of
the Fiji, for instance.
Thanks, Mark,
tender/lifeboat that can be built at 8' or up to 12' in length. It's
relatively complicated and heavy for such a small boat, but has a lot
of capability.
I screwed up the links on my website. If you get to here:
http://www.kolbsadventures.com/fastbrick_6.htm
and you want to see the latest pictures, either change the numeral 6
to a 7 in the URL, or go here:
http://www.kolbsadventures.com/fastbrick_7.htm
Pages 7 and 8 show the latest progress. I'll fix the links tonight.
Jon Kolb
> What is a fast brick? It is not in BWOM that I can tell. Yourshe
> photos show a level of contruction that I can only dream of
> achieving. Very good job, hurry up and finish so we can see how
> looks.It's a relatively recent design (#663) for an unsinkable
tender/lifeboat that can be built at 8' or up to 12' in length. It's
relatively complicated and heavy for such a small boat, but has a lot
of capability.
I screwed up the links on my website. If you get to here:
http://www.kolbsadventures.com/fastbrick_6.htm
and you want to see the latest pictures, either change the numeral 6
to a 7 in the URL, or go here:
http://www.kolbsadventures.com/fastbrick_7.htm
Pages 7 and 8 show the latest progress. I'll fix the links tonight.
Jon Kolb
What is a fast brick? It is not in BWOM that I can tell. Your
photos show a level of contruction that I can only dream of
achieving. Very good job, hurry up and finish so we can see how she
looks.
mark
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "adventures_in_astrophotography"
<jon@k...> wrote:
photos show a level of contruction that I can only dream of
achieving. Very good job, hurry up and finish so we can see how she
looks.
mark
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "adventures_in_astrophotography"
<jon@k...> wrote:
> Hello, Fritz,some
>
> > A while ago there was someone building a Fast Brick who posted
> > photos. Has the boat been completed? Any new photos? I will beby
> > building
> > one for Double Eagle this winter. Mine will need to be narrower
> asince
> > few inches and 10' long.
>
> That someone is probably me. I've been working on mine slowly
> last Autumn while waiting for the plans for our cruiser Auriga(now
> at 4-1/2 years since PCB started the design), and she's notlaunched
> yet, but getting close. Iat
> decided to glass the whole interior after I got it all built, so
> that's taken some additional time, and I only work on her on
> weekends. I also had a major epoxy mixing ratio screw-up that
> required a gallon of vinegar and a couple weekends of scraping the
> interior floor to fix. I've also been building some other boats
> the same time (Big Tortoise, two Totos, Long Dory, and Diablo),but
> these arethen
> really just time-fillers while the epoxy cures. A couple of days
> were also spent just sailing the Light Cat-Schooner (exhilirating!)
>
> Right now she's a few hours away from getting her hull painted,
> it's on to finishing off the interior. I expect to have her inthe
> water before the reservoir near my shop freezes up this year. Youplans
> can see several pages of construction photos here:
>http://www.kolbsadventures.com/fastbrick_1.htm
>
> A few lessons learned:
>
> 1) Make sure the fuel tanks will fit into the slop well. The
> show the well as being 8-3/4" wide from the inside of the transomUltra
> framing to the inside of the aft bulkhead. However, the Tempo
> 3-gallon tanks specified are 9" in width. It's possible to jamthem
> into the well, and they will not really need any chocks after thatbut
> (once past the transom framing there's plenty of room for them),
> they're a pain to remove to get at the watertight hatchesunderneath
> them. I recommend adding at least 1/4" to the width of the slopeverything
> well, and 1/2" wouldn't hurt.
>
> 2) Obtain the insulation foam you will be using in the bottom and
> sides before you cut the chine logs and side rails. I cut
> at the specified 2" width and assembled the hull, then discoveredof
> that the 2" foam was actually 2-1/8", and 1" foam was actually 1-
> 1/8". I had to shim the inside of the side rails (there's a photo
> that on my website) and chine logs to make up the differencebefore
> attaching the interior ply sheathing. Iworked
> don't know if this is a common problem, and I also wonder if it's
> due to the elevation of my shop (8800') and whether I'll have any
> problems once I get her down to sea level.
>
> 3) I made a couple of minor mods to the mast step and the hole for
> the watertight hatch in the forward floor that are shown on my
> website.
>
> 4) The "proto-mast" idea shown worked out great and I highly
> recommend it.
>
> 5) The method I used to build up the oarlock socket areas also
> out very well, and if you have the right router bit seems easierthan
> what's called for in the plans.PCB
>
> 6) The plans have a couple of mistakes in numbering versus the
> building key. You will probably see these yourself, and I made
> aware of those that I found so the plans may have been updated byclose
> now.
>
> 7) Be sure to seal the interior of the box cutwater before you
> it in. I didn't do that, and now I'm struggling to get some kindof
> coating in there to seal up the plywood via the 8" access hatchbottom
> cutout. You should also think about cutting the hole in the
> of the hull for this hatch before you put the bottom on the boxto
> cutwater - otherwise you'll have some permanent sawdust inside the
> cutwater that just can't be removed by vaccuum.
>
> Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions. I check
> this forum relatively often, but will always respond more quickly
> direct email: jon@k...
>
> Good luck!
>
> Jon Kolb
Hello, Fritz,
last Autumn while waiting for the plans for our cruiser Auriga (now
at 4-1/2 years since PCB started the design), and she's not launched
yet, but getting close. I
decided to glass the whole interior after I got it all built, so
that's taken some additional time, and I only work on her on
weekends. I also had a major epoxy mixing ratio screw-up that
required a gallon of vinegar and a couple weekends of scraping the
interior floor to fix. I've also been building some other boats at
the same time (Big Tortoise, two Totos, Long Dory, and Diablo), but
these are
really just time-fillers while the epoxy cures. A couple of days
were also spent just sailing the Light Cat-Schooner (exhilirating!)
Right now she's a few hours away from getting her hull painted, then
it's on to finishing off the interior. I expect to have her in the
water before the reservoir near my shop freezes up this year. You
can see several pages of construction photos here:
http://www.kolbsadventures.com/fastbrick_1.htm
A few lessons learned:
1) Make sure the fuel tanks will fit into the slop well. The plans
show the well as being 8-3/4" wide from the inside of the transom
framing to the inside of the aft bulkhead. However, the Tempo Ultra
3-gallon tanks specified are 9" in width. It's possible to jam them
into the well, and they will not really need any chocks after that
(once past the transom framing there's plenty of room for them), but
they're a pain to remove to get at the watertight hatches underneath
them. I recommend adding at least 1/4" to the width of the slop
well, and 1/2" wouldn't hurt.
2) Obtain the insulation foam you will be using in the bottom and
sides before you cut the chine logs and side rails. I cut everything
at the specified 2" width and assembled the hull, then discovered
that the 2" foam was actually 2-1/8", and 1" foam was actually 1-
1/8". I had to shim the inside of the side rails (there's a photo of
that on my website) and chine logs to make up the difference before
attaching the interior ply sheathing. I
don't know if this is a common problem, and I also wonder if it's
due to the elevation of my shop (8800') and whether I'll have any
problems once I get her down to sea level.
3) I made a couple of minor mods to the mast step and the hole for
the watertight hatch in the forward floor that are shown on my
website.
4) The "proto-mast" idea shown worked out great and I highly
recommend it.
5) The method I used to build up the oarlock socket areas also worked
out very well, and if you have the right router bit seems easier than
what's called for in the plans.
6) The plans have a couple of mistakes in numbering versus the
building key. You will probably see these yourself, and I made PCB
aware of those that I found so the plans may have been updated by
now.
7) Be sure to seal the interior of the box cutwater before you close
it in. I didn't do that, and now I'm struggling to get some kind of
coating in there to seal up the plywood via the 8" access hatch
cutout. You should also think about cutting the hole in the bottom
of the hull for this hatch before you put the bottom on the box
cutwater - otherwise you'll have some permanent sawdust inside the
cutwater that just can't be removed by vaccuum.
Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions. I check
this forum relatively often, but will always respond more quickly to
direct email:jon@....
Good luck!
Jon Kolb
> A while ago there was someone building a Fast Brick who posted somea
> photos. Has the boat been completed? Any new photos? I will be
> building
> one for Double Eagle this winter. Mine will need to be narrower by
> few inches and 10' long.That someone is probably me. I've been working on mine slowly since
last Autumn while waiting for the plans for our cruiser Auriga (now
at 4-1/2 years since PCB started the design), and she's not launched
yet, but getting close. I
decided to glass the whole interior after I got it all built, so
that's taken some additional time, and I only work on her on
weekends. I also had a major epoxy mixing ratio screw-up that
required a gallon of vinegar and a couple weekends of scraping the
interior floor to fix. I've also been building some other boats at
the same time (Big Tortoise, two Totos, Long Dory, and Diablo), but
these are
really just time-fillers while the epoxy cures. A couple of days
were also spent just sailing the Light Cat-Schooner (exhilirating!)
Right now she's a few hours away from getting her hull painted, then
it's on to finishing off the interior. I expect to have her in the
water before the reservoir near my shop freezes up this year. You
can see several pages of construction photos here:
http://www.kolbsadventures.com/fastbrick_1.htm
A few lessons learned:
1) Make sure the fuel tanks will fit into the slop well. The plans
show the well as being 8-3/4" wide from the inside of the transom
framing to the inside of the aft bulkhead. However, the Tempo Ultra
3-gallon tanks specified are 9" in width. It's possible to jam them
into the well, and they will not really need any chocks after that
(once past the transom framing there's plenty of room for them), but
they're a pain to remove to get at the watertight hatches underneath
them. I recommend adding at least 1/4" to the width of the slop
well, and 1/2" wouldn't hurt.
2) Obtain the insulation foam you will be using in the bottom and
sides before you cut the chine logs and side rails. I cut everything
at the specified 2" width and assembled the hull, then discovered
that the 2" foam was actually 2-1/8", and 1" foam was actually 1-
1/8". I had to shim the inside of the side rails (there's a photo of
that on my website) and chine logs to make up the difference before
attaching the interior ply sheathing. I
don't know if this is a common problem, and I also wonder if it's
due to the elevation of my shop (8800') and whether I'll have any
problems once I get her down to sea level.
3) I made a couple of minor mods to the mast step and the hole for
the watertight hatch in the forward floor that are shown on my
website.
4) The "proto-mast" idea shown worked out great and I highly
recommend it.
5) The method I used to build up the oarlock socket areas also worked
out very well, and if you have the right router bit seems easier than
what's called for in the plans.
6) The plans have a couple of mistakes in numbering versus the
building key. You will probably see these yourself, and I made PCB
aware of those that I found so the plans may have been updated by
now.
7) Be sure to seal the interior of the box cutwater before you close
it in. I didn't do that, and now I'm struggling to get some kind of
coating in there to seal up the plywood via the 8" access hatch
cutout. You should also think about cutting the hole in the bottom
of the hull for this hatch before you put the bottom on the box
cutwater - otherwise you'll have some permanent sawdust inside the
cutwater that just can't be removed by vaccuum.
Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions. I check
this forum relatively often, but will always respond more quickly to
direct email:jon@....
Good luck!
Jon Kolb
A while ago there was someone building a Fast Brick who posted some
photos. Has the boat been completed? Any new photos? I will be building
one for Double Eagle this winter. Mine will need to be narrower by a
few inches and 10' long.
fritz koschmann
photos. Has the boat been completed? Any new photos? I will be building
one for Double Eagle this winter. Mine will need to be narrower by a
few inches and 10' long.
fritz koschmann