Re: Fairing lead?
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Fred <derflingdol@y...> wrote:
I wound up using a Surform tool for the actual fine shaping (with a
bit of sanding at the end to smooth out the rasp grooves), but what
really did the trick for cutting down the overpour was a power plane.
Ten minutes of power planing did more than an entire evening of
manual rasping.
Unfortunately, I still managed to underestimate the curve of the
faired daggerboard when I cut the bottom of my daggerboard slot, and I
was only able to get it down about six inches or so last week. Fixing
that is today's task....
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
> When fairing lead the best way to remove the most is to use abody workers rasp.
I wound up using a Surform tool for the actual fine shaping (with a
bit of sanding at the end to smooth out the rasp grooves), but what
really did the trick for cutting down the overpour was a power plane.
Ten minutes of power planing did more than an entire evening of
manual rasping.
Unfortunately, I still managed to underestimate the curve of the
faired daggerboard when I cut the bottom of my daggerboard slot, and I
was only able to get it down about six inches or so last week. Fixing
that is today's task....
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
When fairing lead the best way to remove the most is to use a body workers rasp. They can be had in both flexable and rigid body. They are also available in flat, concave, and convex shapes as well as various lengths. Just remember to keep a file card handy and use it often. But if it gets too clogged up with the material before you notice it, a slow heat and an even slowwer cooldown will help clean it out. Fred
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What I figured out, after the fact, is that I'd have been a lot better off
if I'd put a top on the lead cavity. Feed it with a riser to supply lead as
the main body cools. Include vents at the corners of the lid. Only the
sprues need planing down.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
if I'd put a top on the lead cavity. Feed it with a riser to supply lead as
the main body cools. Include vents at the corners of the lid. Only the
sprues need planing down.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Susan Davis" <futabachan@...>
> We finally had a successful pour for _Shrike_'s keel on Saturday, on
> our third attempt. We poured a bit too much, though, and I have about
> an eighth of an inch of lead to fair down to get the daggerboard to
> fit through the slot. It's also all bumpy and unfair and whatnot.
>
> What's the best way to fair lead? I've found that it eats belt sander
> belts, and the chisel that I used to get the flashing off is far too
> slow to be practical for trimming down the whole casting area....
While I'll agree that most folks have read about the dangers of
lead, I've found that when casting with the stuff they'll use care
with the melted lead, but seem to forget the dangers of fairing with
it for some reason. So I always point it out.
Bill H.
+magazine&w4=Great+outdoors&c=4&s=83&.sig=r49p2sdeaMdE-HKp6VsBvQ>
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+magazine&w4=Great+outdoors&c=4&s=83&.sig=9lzoUcWE8Vy43nP6bzMgMQ>
lead, I've found that when casting with the stuff they'll use care
with the melted lead, but seem to forget the dangers of fairing with
it for some reason. So I always point it out.
Bill H.
> At the risk of sounding redundant... Most likely everyone readingthis
> is aware of the hazards of lead, but I think people who buildboats or
> even think about building boats are special and would hate toimagine
> that anyone might cause him/herself harm due to being uninformedabout
> lead. Lead is a cumulative poison which attacks the nervoussystem
> among other things. It absorbs well in the lungs either in dustor
> vapor form. There was an affliction in decades past which befellaround
> plumbers. Lead used to be used to join all types of metal pipe,
> including the big stuff in some cases, to make sealing flanges
> pipe penetrations through walls and for just about anything wherean
> easy flowing, easily melted, cheap filler could be used. This wasplumbers'
> before people realized how dangerous lead is. It was the
> cure-all, apparently. I forget the name of the condition, akin tomad
> hatter's disease with tanners and mercury. I know a few old timerawful
> plumbers who have said it was before their time but they've heard
> stories of the physically and mentally crippling results. I wouldurge
> anyone working with lead that any chance of breathing ANY lead istoo much.
>lead
> Bruce Hallman wrote:
>
> > On 7/25/05, Bill Hamm <griff10us@y...> wrote:
> > > Sanding and grinding lead is dangerous to your health, makes
> > > dust that's easy to breath, really bad thing.so heavy.
> >
> > Actually, I am not sure that the dust disperses very far, being
> >horses
> > A risk not mentioned: you should wash your hands before eating
> > or smoking, [actually smoking is a bad idea anyway.]
> >
> >
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Let's not make this into an epidemic. Sand outside and wear a
dustmask and you will be fine. I have not had a problem reducing a
lead overpour with a random orbital sander and fairly coarse
sandpaper like 60 grit. It sands about as fast as plywood if it's
pure lead. It may take a little longer if it contains tin or
antimony. If it's pure lead, you can also use a hand plane.
dustmask and you will be fine. I have not had a problem reducing a
lead overpour with a random orbital sander and fairly coarse
sandpaper like 60 grit. It sands about as fast as plywood if it's
pure lead. It may take a little longer if it contains tin or
antimony. If it's pure lead, you can also use a hand plane.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Wesley Cox <inspiredfe@m...> wrote:
> At the risk of sounding redundant... Most likely everyone reading
this
> is aware of the hazards of lead, but I think people who build
boats or
> even think about building boats are special and would hate to
imagine
> that anyone might cause him/herself harm due to being uninformed
about
> lead. Lead is a cumulative poison which attacks the nervous
system
> among other things. It absorbs well in the lungs either in dust
or
> vapor form. There was an affliction in decades past which befell
> plumbers. Lead used to be used to join all types of metal pipe,
> including the big stuff in some cases, to make sealing flanges
around
> pipe penetrations through walls and for just about anything where
an
> easy flowing, easily melted, cheap filler could be used. This was
> before people realized how dangerous lead is. It was the
plumbers'
> cure-all, apparently. I forget the name of the condition, akin to
mad
> hatter's disease with tanners and mercury. I know a few old timer
> plumbers who have said it was before their time but they've heard
awful
> stories of the physically and mentally crippling results. I would
urge
> anyone working with lead that any chance of breathing ANY lead is
too much.
>
> Bruce Hallman wrote:
>
> > On 7/25/05, Bill Hamm <griff10us@y...> wrote:
> > > Sanding and grinding lead is dangerous to your health, makes
lead
> > > dust that's easy to breath, really bad thing.
> >
> > Actually, I am not sure that the dust disperses very far, being
so heavy.
> >
> > A risk not mentioned: you should wash your hands before eating
> > or smoking, [actually smoking is a bad idea anyway.]
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip
away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930,
> > Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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At the risk of sounding redundant... Most likely everyone reading this
is aware of the hazards of lead, but I think people who build boats or
even think about building boats are special and would hate to imagine
that anyone might cause him/herself harm due to being uninformed about
lead. Lead is a cumulative poison which attacks the nervous system
among other things. It absorbs well in the lungs either in dust or
vapor form. There was an affliction in decades past which befell
plumbers. Lead used to be used to join all types of metal pipe,
including the big stuff in some cases, to make sealing flanges around
pipe penetrations through walls and for just about anything where an
easy flowing, easily melted, cheap filler could be used. This was
before people realized how dangerous lead is. It was the plumbers'
cure-all, apparently. I forget the name of the condition, akin to mad
hatter's disease with tanners and mercury. I know a few old timer
plumbers who have said it was before their time but they've heard awful
stories of the physically and mentally crippling results. I would urge
anyone working with lead that any chance of breathing ANY lead is too much.
Bruce Hallman wrote:
is aware of the hazards of lead, but I think people who build boats or
even think about building boats are special and would hate to imagine
that anyone might cause him/herself harm due to being uninformed about
lead. Lead is a cumulative poison which attacks the nervous system
among other things. It absorbs well in the lungs either in dust or
vapor form. There was an affliction in decades past which befell
plumbers. Lead used to be used to join all types of metal pipe,
including the big stuff in some cases, to make sealing flanges around
pipe penetrations through walls and for just about anything where an
easy flowing, easily melted, cheap filler could be used. This was
before people realized how dangerous lead is. It was the plumbers'
cure-all, apparently. I forget the name of the condition, akin to mad
hatter's disease with tanners and mercury. I know a few old timer
plumbers who have said it was before their time but they've heard awful
stories of the physically and mentally crippling results. I would urge
anyone working with lead that any chance of breathing ANY lead is too much.
Bruce Hallman wrote:
> On 7/25/05, Bill Hamm <griff10us@...> wrote:
> > Sanding and grinding lead is dangerous to your health, makes lead
> > dust that's easy to breath, really bad thing.
>
> Actually, I am not sure that the dust disperses very far, being so heavy.
>
> A risk not mentioned: you should wash your hands before eating
> or smoking, [actually smoking is a bad idea anyway.]
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Boating safety
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Boating+safety&w1=Boating+safety&w2=Alaska+outdoors&w3=Boating+magazine&w4=Great+outdoors&c=4&s=83&.sig=r49p2sdeaMdE-HKp6VsBvQ>
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> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Alaska+outdoors&w1=Boating+safety&w2=Alaska+outdoors&w3=Boating+magazine&w4=Great+outdoors&c=4&s=83&.sig=DMVKSdfVjcXwtIGevXt4yA>
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>
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--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote:
lead, add going to the bathroom. Wash your hands both
before and after.
Phil Smith
> On 7/25/05, Bill Hamm <griff10us@...> wrote:In addition to all of THOSE hazardous practices with
> > Sanding and grinding lead is dangerous to your
> health, makes lead
> > dust that's easy to breath, really bad thing.
>
> Actually, I am not sure that the dust disperses very
> far, being so heavy.
>
> A risk not mentioned: you should wash your hands
> before eating
> or smoking, [actually smoking is a bad idea anyway.]
>
lead, add going to the bathroom. Wash your hands both
before and after.
Phil Smith
On 7/25/05, Bill Hamm <griff10us@...> wrote:
A risk not mentioned: you should wash your hands before eating
or smoking, [actually smoking is a bad idea anyway.]
> Sanding and grinding lead is dangerous to your health, makes leadActually, I am not sure that the dust disperses very far, being so heavy.
> dust that's easy to breath, really bad thing.
A risk not mentioned: you should wash your hands before eating
or smoking, [actually smoking is a bad idea anyway.]
Sanding and grinding lead is dangerous to your health, makes lead
dust that's easy to breath, really bad thing.
Sure-form file works pretty well and is relatively quick.
Bill H.
dust that's easy to breath, really bad thing.
Sure-form file works pretty well and is relatively quick.
Bill H.
> We finally had a successful pour for _Shrike_'s keel on Saturday,on
> our third attempt. We poured a bit too much, though, and I haveabout
> an eighth of an inch of lead to fair down to get the daggerboard tosander
> fit through the slot. It's also all bumpy and unfair and whatnot.
>
> What's the best way to fair lead? I've found that it eats belt
> belts, and the chisel that I used to get the flashing off is fartoo
> slow to be practical for trimming down the whole casting area....
>
> --
> Susan Davis <futabachan@y...>
Hi Susan
Cheap electric handplane. Fairing a Micro keel I tried rasps, surforms,
handplanes, grinders, sanders &c. All slow or of limited effect.
Eventually after hours of messing around I gave in and bought a cheapo
electric handplane for less than the cost of a half day rental, and finished
the job in [literally] minutes. The power plane isn't my favourite tool for
anything else, but I've rough dimensioned wood with it since and the lead
doesn't appear to have even significantly dulled the blades. Unlike with the
hand-powered edged tools there was no tendency for the lead to 'stick',
grabbing the blade. If you are going to use a traditional plane I'd try to
get the biggest lump of iron you can find - the extra inertia seemed to help
when compared to a little blockplane.
cheers
Derek
Cheap electric handplane. Fairing a Micro keel I tried rasps, surforms,
handplanes, grinders, sanders &c. All slow or of limited effect.
Eventually after hours of messing around I gave in and bought a cheapo
electric handplane for less than the cost of a half day rental, and finished
the job in [literally] minutes. The power plane isn't my favourite tool for
anything else, but I've rough dimensioned wood with it since and the lead
doesn't appear to have even significantly dulled the blades. Unlike with the
hand-powered edged tools there was no tendency for the lead to 'stick',
grabbing the blade. If you are going to use a traditional plane I'd try to
get the biggest lump of iron you can find - the extra inertia seemed to help
when compared to a little blockplane.
cheers
Derek
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, eheins@c... wrote:
fine tuning nor sharpening.That is what bodyshops used at one time I
know. You can get surform planes and rasps in several sizes.
Charcoal mask and good glove are manditory IMHO.
Nels
> I can attest that a hand plane makes the job pretty easy.I would try a surform first. Cheaper and easier to use as there is no
fine tuning nor sharpening.That is what bodyshops used at one time I
know. You can get surform planes and rasps in several sizes.
Charcoal mask and good glove are manditory IMHO.
Nels
I can attest that a hand plane makes the job pretty easy. I performed
exactly the same funtion on the lead insert in the Chebacco centerboard.
In hindsight I spent more time ruminating about the best method than the
handplane required to accomplish the job. If it's a big job I'd not
hesitate to buy one of the cheap 20 buck electric planers you can get from
any of the "truckload" tool sales that always seem to crop up at the
American Legion hall.
exactly the same funtion on the lead insert in the Chebacco centerboard.
In hindsight I spent more time ruminating about the best method than the
handplane required to accomplish the job. If it's a big job I'd not
hesitate to buy one of the cheap 20 buck electric planers you can get from
any of the "truckload" tool sales that always seem to crop up at the
American Legion hall.
>
>
> < What's the best way to fair lead?
> < Susan Davis
>
> Bumps can be smashed flat with a hammer.
> I have found that cutting with a Skilsaw can
> be helpful on the edges.
>
> But for the 'flat', I am guessing here, and if it were
> me, I would try an electric plane, maybe even
> a hand plane.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
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In a "how-to" in Sailing World about fairing the keel on a J-22, they
recommended a power plane for gross lead removal. Eye protection is
manditory and I'd strongly suggest at least a good quality dust mask.
JB
recommended a power plane for gross lead removal. Eye protection is
manditory and I'd strongly suggest at least a good quality dust mask.
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Susan Davis" <futabachan@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2005 11:30 AM
Subject: [bolger] Fairing lead?
> We finally had a successful pour for _Shrike_'s keel on Saturday, on
> our third attempt. We poured a bit too much, though, and I have about
> an eighth of an inch of lead to fair down to get the daggerboard to
> fit through the slot. It's also all bumpy and unfair and whatnot.
>
> What's the best way to fair lead? I've found that it eats belt sander
> belts, and the chisel that I used to get the flashing off is far too
> slow to be practical for trimming down the whole casting area....
>
> --
> Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
I would suggest that you refer to books on wood cabinetry. Somewhere
there will be a discussion about planing wide boards and grinding the
blade so that the corners of the blade don't dig in. It would be cheap
enough to buy a blade to dedicate to this purpose. It amounts to
grinding a very slight radius on the blade. You would be, in effect,
scooping out lead. the corners of the blade would be above the bed (if
that's the word) of the plane so would not dig in. It would be more
complicated to prepare an electric plane but would be a whole lot
faster. One of those japanese rasp/planes might serve also.
Bob Chamberland
there will be a discussion about planing wide boards and grinding the
blade so that the corners of the blade don't dig in. It would be cheap
enough to buy a blade to dedicate to this purpose. It amounts to
grinding a very slight radius on the blade. You would be, in effect,
scooping out lead. the corners of the blade would be above the bed (if
that's the word) of the plane so would not dig in. It would be more
complicated to prepare an electric plane but would be a whole lot
faster. One of those japanese rasp/planes might serve also.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Chamberland" <cha62759@t...> wrote:
> Handplane.
> Bob Chamberland
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Susan Davis" <futabachan@y...> wrote:
> > We finally had a successful pour for _Shrike_'s keel on Saturday, on
> > our third attempt. We poured a bit too much, though, and I have about
> > an eighth of an inch of lead to fair down to get the daggerboard to
> > fit through the slot. It's also all bumpy and unfair and whatnot.
> >
> > What's the best way to fair lead? I've found that it eats belt sander
> > belts, and the chisel that I used to get the flashing off is far too
> > slow to be practical for trimming down the whole casting area....
> >
> > --
> > Susan Davis <futabachan@y...>
> What's the best way to fair lead?Bumps can be smashed flat with a hammer.
> Susan Davis
I have found that cutting with a Skilsaw can
be helpful on the edges.
But for the 'flat', I am guessing here, and if it were
me, I would try an electric plane, maybe even
a hand plane.
Handplane.
Bob Chamberland
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Susan Davis" <futabachan@y...> wrote:
> We finally had a successful pour for _Shrike_'s keel on Saturday, on
> our third attempt. We poured a bit too much, though, and I have about
> an eighth of an inch of lead to fair down to get the daggerboard to
> fit through the slot. It's also all bumpy and unfair and whatnot.
>
> What's the best way to fair lead? I've found that it eats belt sander
> belts, and the chisel that I used to get the flashing off is far too
> slow to be practical for trimming down the whole casting area....
>
> --
> Susan Davis <futabachan@y...>
We finally had a successful pour for _Shrike_'s keel on Saturday, on
our third attempt. We poured a bit too much, though, and I have about
an eighth of an inch of lead to fair down to get the daggerboard to
fit through the slot. It's also all bumpy and unfair and whatnot.
What's the best way to fair lead? I've found that it eats belt sander
belts, and the chisel that I used to get the flashing off is far too
slow to be practical for trimming down the whole casting area....
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
our third attempt. We poured a bit too much, though, and I have about
an eighth of an inch of lead to fair down to get the daggerboard to
fit through the slot. It's also all bumpy and unfair and whatnot.
What's the best way to fair lead? I've found that it eats belt sander
belts, and the chisel that I used to get the flashing off is far too
slow to be practical for trimming down the whole casting area....
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>