Re: Air cooled engines
So what?
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul W. Esterle" <pesterle@p...> wrote:
> But you just enclosed it in a box!
>
> Paul Esterle - Freelance Boating Writer
> Columbia 10.7/Matilda 20
> North East MD
> www.captnpauley.com
> pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
Anyone interested in boatbuilding regulations and the USCG need to
go tohttp://www.uscgboating.org/safety/boatbuilder/index.htmand
see the following links. It should not be that hard to meet their
requirements.
Welcome to the Boatbuilder's Handbook!
The posted information is for manufacturers of recreational boats
who must comply with the applicable regulations. Depending upon boat
type, engine, length, usage, etc., a regulation (and corresponding
guide) may, or may not, be applicable.
While we encourage recreational boat owners to use the information
for their benefit, compliance with the regulations is the
responsibility of the boat manufacturers.
Potential manufacturers, or importers, of recreational boats must
contact the USCG, Office of Boating Safety, Recreational Boating
Product Assurance Division at 202-267-0984 and request a
Manufacturers Identification Code (MIC) form.
Part 1 Regulations and Other Information
Part 2 Safety Circulars #64, an excerpt from #83, and #81 page 6
Part 3 Consumer Fact Sheets
Compliance Guidelines:
Subpart I Electrical Systems
Subpart J Fuel Systems
Subpart K Ventilation
Subpart C Safe Loading & Subpart B Display of Capacity
Information
Subpart F, Subpart G & Subpart H Flotation Requirements
NOTICE:
It is the responsibility of the Boat Manufacturer to ensure that the
applicable
Federal Regulations have not been updated since the reference date.
go tohttp://www.uscgboating.org/safety/boatbuilder/index.htmand
see the following links. It should not be that hard to meet their
requirements.
Welcome to the Boatbuilder's Handbook!
The posted information is for manufacturers of recreational boats
who must comply with the applicable regulations. Depending upon boat
type, engine, length, usage, etc., a regulation (and corresponding
guide) may, or may not, be applicable.
While we encourage recreational boat owners to use the information
for their benefit, compliance with the regulations is the
responsibility of the boat manufacturers.
Potential manufacturers, or importers, of recreational boats must
contact the USCG, Office of Boating Safety, Recreational Boating
Product Assurance Division at 202-267-0984 and request a
Manufacturers Identification Code (MIC) form.
Part 1 Regulations and Other Information
Part 2 Safety Circulars #64, an excerpt from #83, and #81 page 6
Part 3 Consumer Fact Sheets
Compliance Guidelines:
Subpart I Electrical Systems
Subpart J Fuel Systems
Subpart K Ventilation
Subpart C Safe Loading & Subpart B Display of Capacity
Information
Subpart F, Subpart G & Subpart H Flotation Requirements
NOTICE:
It is the responsibility of the Boat Manufacturer to ensure that the
applicable
Federal Regulations have not been updated since the reference date.
But you just enclosed it in a box!
Paul Esterle - Freelance Boating Writer
Columbia 10.7/Matilda 20
North East MD
www.captnpauley.com
pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
Paul Esterle - Freelance Boating Writer
Columbia 10.7/Matilda 20
North East MD
www.captnpauley.com
pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
| Another thing to consider using the B&S motors is what to do with the
heat.
| In Bolger's Duetz diesel designs (actually oil-cooled with forced air
| radiators) he gives quite a bit of thought to getting cool air to the
engine
| and the waste heat out of the boat. Given that most B&S motors don't
really
| have ready made connections to ducts e.g. cool air in one side, hot
| air
out
| the other, this seems problematic.
In Bonefish and other aircooled lawnmower engined boats the engine is
not buried down in the hull. I will build a box about the engine. Its
fan will pull cooling and combustion air in one side. I will use a
simple double walled sheet metal stack mounted on top to take the waste
cooling air and the exhaust gas up above the canopy.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
|
| I'll also bet anyone $20 that they can't come up with a satisfactory
| and safe 13-15 HP inboard with full F-N-R capabilities including
| stuffing box, shaft, prop and rudder that will cost less than a new 15
| HP Mercury
4-stroke
| outboard (About $2300 from BPS last time I checked).
|
I've got a nice used 18hp B&S WITH an electric clutch ready to go for
$400, so I've got $1900 to finish the job. Or I can do it with my 13 hp
and a manual clutch. I can argue I have 0$ in that!
Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Regards,
RonB
Exactly!!!
Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
And also the noise. Yesterday afternoon I spent an hour or so in
close proximity to a nice little 5 hp aircooled Honda petrol engine
that sits atop my self-propelled mower. It's may times noisier than
my Mercury 15 hp 2-stroke outboard, which sits on the transom (of my
boat, not the lawnmower), not right next to me, as shown in the
Bonefish cartoon.
I can't remember what my outboard cost, but if I'd used an inboard
I'd have had to buy the engine, a shaft, propellor, stern bearing,
thrust bearing, f-n-r gears, rudder, rudder bearing, steering
controls, fuel tank and exhaust system. It's hard to imagine all
this would be cheaper than my outboard. I'd have had to learn
several new skills and spend ages installing everything, with
brackets, beds, fasteners etc., some of which would have had to be
fabricated.
The heavily shrouded 18hp I've got is amazingly quiet. The shroud
contains the "ringing" of the fins. Plus, this engine has an effective
muffler. Adapting GOOOD mufflers is important. A cheap automotive
muffler makes a HUGE difference, and will last for ever.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Don Schultz
These are written that you may know Jesus is the Christ... Gospel of
John
"If you don't know where you're going, you'll end up somewhere else."
Yogi Berra
| Another thing to consider using the B&S motors is what to do with the
heat.
| In Bolger's Duetz diesel designs (actually oil-cooled with forced air
| radiators) he gives quite a bit of thought to getting cool air to the
engine
| and the waste heat out of the boat. Given that most B&S motors don't
really
| have ready made connections to ducts e.g. cool air in one side, hot
| air
out
| the other, this seems problematic.
In Bonefish and other aircooled lawnmower engined boats the engine is
not buried down in the hull. I will build a box about the engine. Its
fan will pull cooling and combustion air in one side. I will use a
simple double walled sheet metal stack mounted on top to take the waste
cooling air and the exhaust gas up above the canopy.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
|
| I'll also bet anyone $20 that they can't come up with a satisfactory
| and safe 13-15 HP inboard with full F-N-R capabilities including
| stuffing box, shaft, prop and rudder that will cost less than a new 15
| HP Mercury
4-stroke
| outboard (About $2300 from BPS last time I checked).
|
I've got a nice used 18hp B&S WITH an electric clutch ready to go for
$400, so I've got $1900 to finish the job. Or I can do it with my 13 hp
and a manual clutch. I can argue I have 0$ in that!
Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>How about the cost and complication of certifying an air-cooled (a laIf the engine is not enclosed, this is not required.
>B&S) engine for marine use? Ignition protected components, flame
>arrestor, approved fuel lines, etc.????
Regards,
RonB
Exactly!!!
Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
And also the noise. Yesterday afternoon I spent an hour or so in
close proximity to a nice little 5 hp aircooled Honda petrol engine
that sits atop my self-propelled mower. It's may times noisier than
my Mercury 15 hp 2-stroke outboard, which sits on the transom (of my
boat, not the lawnmower), not right next to me, as shown in the
Bonefish cartoon.
I can't remember what my outboard cost, but if I'd used an inboard
I'd have had to buy the engine, a shaft, propellor, stern bearing,
thrust bearing, f-n-r gears, rudder, rudder bearing, steering
controls, fuel tank and exhaust system. It's hard to imagine all
this would be cheaper than my outboard. I'd have had to learn
several new skills and spend ages installing everything, with
brackets, beds, fasteners etc., some of which would have had to be
fabricated.
The heavily shrouded 18hp I've got is amazingly quiet. The shroud
contains the "ringing" of the fins. Plus, this engine has an effective
muffler. Adapting GOOOD mufflers is important. A cheap automotive
muffler makes a HUGE difference, and will last for ever.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Don Schultz
These are written that you may know Jesus is the Christ... Gospel of
John
"If you don't know where you're going, you'll end up somewhere else."
Yogi Berra