Re: Sneakeasy (was: not necessarily...)
Ron,
Whoops - sorry! I sent the design to your email.
I've never seen a flat version, but the box keel version performs
quite well. Unless you really load it down (say 6 adults), it
really doesn't pound much at all. I would expect the box keel is
easier to build than a V bottom, but otherwise provides a similar
effect in rough water.
I actually have a similar boat designed and built by a friend of
mine - essentially a fancy 30' Sneakeasy with a shallow V. It's a
heavier and faster boat, powered with a 70. The dead rise is only
about 7 degrees, I think constant. It actually will pound maybe
even a bit more than the sneakeasy unless you really trim the bow
down in the water (but it also goes faster). And then, you have to
be carefull not to stuff in in a powerboat wake. I always thought
the V could have been a little sharper up front.
The Loon also has strakes on the bottom and spray rails - a hook on
the chines. The guy who built it went on the build a 56' Biloxi
lugger:
http://www.westsystem.com/ewmag/20/Building_alligator.html
http://alligator.smugmug.com/
which is really a converted shrimper. His version has a
seabriteskiff-like hull with prop in a tunnel (some of it's dry at
rest), a lot like Dave Gerr's "Summer Kyle". But I digress...
Loon is really is a georgeous boat - I will try to get some photos.
Might provide some ideas for Sneakeasy builders.
Gregg Carlson
P.S. Hulls does not enforce conical projections - you can torture
away.
Whoops - sorry! I sent the design to your email.
I've never seen a flat version, but the box keel version performs
quite well. Unless you really load it down (say 6 adults), it
really doesn't pound much at all. I would expect the box keel is
easier to build than a V bottom, but otherwise provides a similar
effect in rough water.
I actually have a similar boat designed and built by a friend of
mine - essentially a fancy 30' Sneakeasy with a shallow V. It's a
heavier and faster boat, powered with a 70. The dead rise is only
about 7 degrees, I think constant. It actually will pound maybe
even a bit more than the sneakeasy unless you really trim the bow
down in the water (but it also goes faster). And then, you have to
be carefull not to stuff in in a powerboat wake. I always thought
the V could have been a little sharper up front.
The Loon also has strakes on the bottom and spray rails - a hook on
the chines. The guy who built it went on the build a 56' Biloxi
lugger:
http://www.westsystem.com/ewmag/20/Building_alligator.html
http://alligator.smugmug.com/
which is really a converted shrimper. His version has a
seabriteskiff-like hull with prop in a tunnel (some of it's dry at
rest), a lot like Dave Gerr's "Summer Kyle". But I digress...
Loon is really is a georgeous boat - I will try to get some photos.
Might provide some ideas for Sneakeasy builders.
Gregg Carlson
P.S. Hulls does not enforce conical projections - you can torture
away.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Ron Schroeder" <rjs@b...> wrote:
> My copy of Hulls doesn't have "sneakesy.hul" but it does
have "blgrbee.hul".
> Could you send me a copy?
>
> How do you think the box keel version of Sneakeasy compares to the
standard
> version? What would be the advantages (or disadvantages) of the
box keel
> over a warped "V" with the keel following the same line as the
bottom of the
> box keel and the chine following the bottom of the sides?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ron
>
> By the way, does Hulls always develop buildable conical
projections?
Hi Greg,
My copy of Hulls doesn't have "sneakesy.hul" but it does have "blgrbee.hul".
Could you send me a copy?
How do you think the box keel version of Sneakeasy compares to the standard
version? What would be the advantages (or disadvantages) of the box keel
over a warped "V" with the keel following the same line as the bottom of the
box keel and the chine following the bottom of the sides?
Thanks,
Ron
By the way, does Hulls always develop buildable conical projections?
My copy of Hulls doesn't have "sneakesy.hul" but it does have "blgrbee.hul".
Could you send me a copy?
How do you think the box keel version of Sneakeasy compares to the standard
version? What would be the advantages (or disadvantages) of the box keel
over a warped "V" with the keel following the same line as the bottom of the
box keel and the chine following the bottom of the sides?
Thanks,
Ron
By the way, does Hulls always develop buildable conical projections?
----- Original Message -----
From: "ghartc" <gregg.carlson@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 10:55 PM
Subject: [bolger] Sneakeasy (was: not necessarily...)
> Ron,
>
> That's the Bee. The Sneakeasy is eerily named sneakesy.hul.
>
<snip>
> Gregg Carlson
> Tulsa, OK
Ron,
That's the Bee. The Sneakeasy is eerily named sneakesy.hul.
Doublecheck some dimensions from Boats With an Open Mind; there was
some playing around with the shapes after I entered in the boat and
built. Note the aft bottoms are "V'ed" off rather than properly
squared off - a limitation of my program.
There is an old Polaroid building sequence on my website
(carlsondesign.com) of how I built from the program output. I
plotted the bottom and frames, but then just transferred the sides,
which was easier (since they are perfectly plumb) and provided a
guaranteed fit.
Gregg Carlson
Tulsa, OK
That's the Bee. The Sneakeasy is eerily named sneakesy.hul.
Doublecheck some dimensions from Boats With an Open Mind; there was
some playing around with the shapes after I entered in the boat and
built. Note the aft bottoms are "V'ed" off rather than properly
squared off - a limitation of my program.
There is an old Polaroid building sequence on my website
(carlsondesign.com) of how I built from the program output. I
plotted the bottom and frames, but then just transferred the sides,
which was easier (since they are perfectly plumb) and provided a
guaranteed fit.
Gregg Carlson
Tulsa, OK
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Ron Schroeder" <rjs@b...> wrote:
> Would that be blgrbee.hul? That looks like it might be a
Sneakeasy.
>
> Thanks,
> Ron S.
At 04:59 PM 8/8/05, you wrote:
double-checked the offsets of that one to make sure they match. Sneak
offsets for the box-keel are in Boats with an Open Mind.
Regards,
RonB
>Hi Ron B.,Yes, that is what it actually is: the box-keel Sneakeasy. I haven't
>
>Would that be blgrbee.hul? That looks like it might be a Sneakeasy.
double-checked the offsets of that one to make sure they match. Sneak
offsets for the box-keel are in Boats with an Open Mind.
Regards,
RonB
It would most likely be the Bolger Bee, which is a half-scale version
of the Microtrawler, built to prove the Mirotrawler concept.
Sneakeasy is much longer although not much beamier than the Bee.
Howard
of the Microtrawler, built to prove the Mirotrawler concept.
Sneakeasy is much longer although not much beamier than the Bee.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Ron Schroeder" <rjs@b...> wrote:
>
> Hi Ron B.,
>
> Would that be blgrbee.hul? That looks like it might be a Sneakeasy.
Hi Ron B.,
Would that be blgrbee.hul? That looks like it might be a Sneakeasy.
Thanks,
Ron S.
Would that be blgrbee.hul? That looks like it might be a Sneakeasy.
Thanks,
Ron S.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Ron Butterfield <ronb_5@e...> wrote:
> At 08:06 AM 8/5/05, you wrote:
> >Speaking of Hulls, where can I get files for some of the Bolger
designs. I
> >specifically want to run the waterline calculation to help design
location
> >of batteries and motor.
> >
> >I especially would like a file for the box keel version of the
Sneakeasy and
> >any other box keel designs.
>
> I think that is actually included in the hulls.exe package.
>
>
> Regards,
> RonB
At 08:06 AM 8/5/05, you wrote:
Regards,
RonB
>Speaking of Hulls, where can I get files for some of the Bolger designs. II think that is actually included in the hulls.exe package.
>specifically want to run the waterline calculation to help design location
>of batteries and motor.
>
>I especially would like a file for the box keel version of the Sneakeasy and
>any other box keel designs.
Regards,
RonB
Speaking of Hulls, where can I get files for some of the Bolger designs. I
specifically want to run the waterline calculation to help design location
of batteries and motor.
I especially would like a file for the box keel version of the Sneakeasy and
any other box keel designs.
Thanks,
Ron
specifically want to run the waterline calculation to help design location
of batteries and motor.
I especially would like a file for the box keel version of the Sneakeasy and
any other box keel designs.
Thanks,
Ron
Well, I probably spoke too fast. A Google search for "African Queen" steam
boat turned up a lot of hits including
http://www.steamboating.net/page31.htmlwhich reinforces one of the other
references that she was built of welded steel.
I'd suggest that "Steamboatin 101" is a must read.
http://www.steamboating.net/page11.htmlChapter 2 is titled "Choosing a
Steamboat Hull."
She does seem to cover a lot of ground. Built in England, on the US west
coast for the movie, in Louisville some 15 years ago, and now, apparently,
in Rhode Island.
The thing that I had in mind was that coexisting with a steam engine,
boiler, and fire box while feeding the boiler and "cruising in comfort"
requires a lot of thinking. A few weeks ago I took the dinner cruise on the
Belle of Louisville. The compartment where the engineer supervised the oil
feeds to the boilers was 120° F. Even when the ambient temperature is more
moderate, leaning against the plumbing will spoil one's day.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
boat turned up a lot of hits including
http://www.steamboating.net/page31.htmlwhich reinforces one of the other
references that she was built of welded steel.
I'd suggest that "Steamboatin 101" is a must read.
http://www.steamboating.net/page11.htmlChapter 2 is titled "Choosing a
Steamboat Hull."
She does seem to cover a lot of ground. Built in England, on the US west
coast for the movie, in Louisville some 15 years ago, and now, apparently,
in Rhode Island.
The thing that I had in mind was that coexisting with a steam engine,
boiler, and fire box while feeding the boiler and "cruising in comfort"
requires a lot of thinking. A few weeks ago I took the dinner cruise on the
Belle of Louisville. The compartment where the engineer supervised the oil
feeds to the boilers was 120° F. Even when the ambient temperature is more
moderate, leaning against the plumbing will spoil one's day.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Coho" <abcoho@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 8:36 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Not necessarily off topic
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@e...> wrote:
>> Since no one else has mentioned, I think you should definitely get
> the plans
>> for the African Queen before considering anything else.
>>
>> Roger
>
> OK, I'll bite, where do I find info on the Afican Queen or do I go to
> my local movie rental store?
>
> Bruce
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@e...> wrote:
my local movie rental store?
Bruce
> Since no one else has mentioned, I think you should definitely getthe plans
> for the African Queen before considering anything else.OK, I'll bite, where do I find info on the Afican Queen or do I go to
>
> Roger
my local movie rental store?
Bruce
Since no one else has mentioned, I think you should definitely get the plans
for the African Queen before considering anything else.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
for the African Queen before considering anything else.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Coho" <abcoho@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 8:01 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Not necessarily off topic
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
>> On 7/31/05, Bruce Coho wrote
>> > of lapstrakes. I am contemplating a "Queen Mab",
>> > design. I have found the Hulls program
>>
>> Funny you should write this, because just last
>> week I was toying with the same idea in Hulls.
>
>
> I just wanted to thank everyone who responded.(Bruce, Roger, John,
> et,al.) It has been a great help. Once I finish the basement
> (coming soon...almost done) I have permission from the boss to start
> a project for myself. Just last week a cheap tool sale at the local
> VFW resulted in about 30 or so more clamps...after all, I have to
> use them; right?
>
> Anyway, the local small lake would be perfect for Queen Mab and a
> little gem like that would scratch the boat builders itch that has
> been growing and growing and growing, and.....
>
> Bruce
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
et,al.) It has been a great help. Once I finish the basement
(coming soon...almost done) I have permission from the boss to start
a project for myself. Just last week a cheap tool sale at the local
VFW resulted in about 30 or so more clamps...after all, I have to
use them; right?
Anyway, the local small lake would be perfect for Queen Mab and a
little gem like that would scratch the boat builders itch that has
been growing and growing and growing, and.....
Bruce
> On 7/31/05, Bruce Coho wroteI just wanted to thank everyone who responded.(Bruce, Roger, John,
> > of lapstrakes. I am contemplating a "Queen Mab",
> > design. I have found the Hulls program
>
> Funny you should write this, because just last
> week I was toying with the same idea in Hulls.
et,al.) It has been a great help. Once I finish the basement
(coming soon...almost done) I have permission from the boss to start
a project for myself. Just last week a cheap tool sale at the local
VFW resulted in about 30 or so more clamps...after all, I have to
use them; right?
Anyway, the local small lake would be perfect for Queen Mab and a
little gem like that would scratch the boat builders itch that has
been growing and growing and growing, and.....
Bruce
On 7/31/05, Bruce Coho wrote
week I was toying with the same idea in Hulls.
I found that the Queen Mab shape could be
stretched a little bit and still be cut out of
just two sheets of 1/8" and one sheet of 1/4".
I also was considering reuse of my
Tortoise lateen rig and daggerboard, and this is
such a significant change that I have renamed my
b*st*rdization to be _Queen Bob_.
http://hallman.org/boats/QueenBob/QueenBob.gif
HUL files of Mab and Bob are here:
[plus a couple scanned pictures of Mab from MAIB]
http://hallman.org/boats/QueenBob/
========== my Hulls instructions ==========
Here is a rough outline of how I use Hulls.exe...
1) I choose an exising boat with roughly the same shape, and exactly the
same number of chines and open it with:
File|Open|[select]|Done
2) I drag the lines, chines, sheer, etc.. to the shape of the hull I want
by using the mouse. Working back and forth between the various views
to get a boat with the smooth lines and shape you want.
3) I then set the overall scale of the boat using
Calculations|Rescale|Length Overall Go back to step 2 and tweak.
...If you plan to make a model and plot the panels on a laser printer,
using a smaller
scale that fits better on thin cardboard which has a different aspect
ratio that 4x8 ply
can same some trouble... This process takes trial and error and experience
helps...
4) You make the patterns for the panels and the frames using the
menu command File|SaveCreate
This opens a "Save and Create Patterns" dialogue box to set the locations
of frames you want and to choose whether you want to plot the
strongback "2x4Spar" and/or the deck and sole etc..
5) Now click the menu item Patterns|Nesting
Again, some learning curve here! For plotting on paper choosing a panel
size of about 110 x 96 [I forget exactly!] plots better on laser printer than
using the default 48x96.
Click each of your panels in the selection box and drag to a good location
on the plywood. You can copy and flip to get 'opposite hand' panels.
Once done you can plot to a laser printer using the 'Print' button.
You can also plot the 'layout points' using the 'Save' button, this is
how you layout full size panels on plywood, including the 'notches'
in the bulkheads if you actually treat the thin edge surface of each
strake as its own very long and thin chine.
> of lapstrakes. I am contemplating a "Queen Mab",Funny you should write this, because just last
> design. I have found the Hulls program
week I was toying with the same idea in Hulls.
I found that the Queen Mab shape could be
stretched a little bit and still be cut out of
just two sheets of 1/8" and one sheet of 1/4".
I also was considering reuse of my
Tortoise lateen rig and daggerboard, and this is
such a significant change that I have renamed my
b*st*rdization to be _Queen Bob_.
http://hallman.org/boats/QueenBob/QueenBob.gif
HUL files of Mab and Bob are here:
[plus a couple scanned pictures of Mab from MAIB]
http://hallman.org/boats/QueenBob/
========== my Hulls instructions ==========
Here is a rough outline of how I use Hulls.exe...
1) I choose an exising boat with roughly the same shape, and exactly the
same number of chines and open it with:
File|Open|[select]|Done
2) I drag the lines, chines, sheer, etc.. to the shape of the hull I want
by using the mouse. Working back and forth between the various views
to get a boat with the smooth lines and shape you want.
3) I then set the overall scale of the boat using
Calculations|Rescale|Length Overall Go back to step 2 and tweak.
...If you plan to make a model and plot the panels on a laser printer,
using a smaller
scale that fits better on thin cardboard which has a different aspect
ratio that 4x8 ply
can same some trouble... This process takes trial and error and experience
helps...
4) You make the patterns for the panels and the frames using the
menu command File|SaveCreate
This opens a "Save and Create Patterns" dialogue box to set the locations
of frames you want and to choose whether you want to plot the
strongback "2x4Spar" and/or the deck and sole etc..
5) Now click the menu item Patterns|Nesting
Again, some learning curve here! For plotting on paper choosing a panel
size of about 110 x 96 [I forget exactly!] plots better on laser printer than
using the default 48x96.
Click each of your panels in the selection box and drag to a good location
on the plywood. You can copy and flip to get 'opposite hand' panels.
Once done you can plot to a laser printer using the 'Print' button.
You can also plot the 'layout points' using the 'Save' button, this is
how you layout full size panels on plywood, including the 'notches'
in the bulkheads if you actually treat the thin edge surface of each
strake as its own very long and thin chine.
At 11:15 PM 7/31/05, Bruce wrote:
http://home.mebtel.net/~rbutterfield/boats/launch.HUL
I have the plans for the Fisherman's Launch from BWAOM, and wondered what
she would look like in lapstrake. Not knowing anything about how to develop
a shape for lapstrake planks, I embarked on a tedious trial and error
process. Don't laugh too hard, now, ok?
First, I took the offsets into Cad and drew all the frames, plus the
profile. From that, I chose the 3 frames I would input to Hulls. Still in
Cad, I did my best to come up with an acceptable garboard shape, and
plotted that on my 5 frames (transom, 3 frames, and stem).
Then, on the transom and 3 frames, I took the remaining frame-amount and
divided it by 8 (I am using a 10 chine shape in hulls, which gives me 9
planks if I ignore the skeg/keel). This gave me a series of points that I
plotted on the profile, and then extrapolated from to get my chine points
on the stem.
I then took the measurements of each of these points, measured them, and
entered them into a spreadsheet in the same layout hulls uses for the offsets.
I then opened Hulls, opened a file, and changed the chine count to 10. I
gave it a new name and folder (a tedious process in itself), then opened
the Offsets Table. After hiding the main window (to avoid the distraction
of points bouncing all over the place, I manually entered the data from the
spreadsheet in each cell of the Offsets Table. When that was done, any
typos showed up as discontinuities in the displayed model.
Then, from File, Save/Create, choose the path you want the files to be
created in (it must be the same in all three windows [file name,
directories, and export path] or Hulls will crash when you try to save).
Choose the files you want created (in my instance, expansions, dxf and
transom), then click save. Then a dxf file will be written for a 3-view
(_filename.dxf_) the transom, and each chine.
You can then open them up with a Cad program, and massage them so that they
are a bit closer to reality. These are all created as line segments, and
you will get smoother results if you plot a spline curve at the frame
points insted. You will also need to add the material for the laps, as
these chine#.dxf's will only be point to point. Once you get your smooth
chines, you can then past that into another Cad file so that you can play
with nesting on your material.
Once that is finished, you can either take that layout to a plotter, or lay
out offsets to transfer these measurements directly to your material.
Your mileage may vary.
I have not built a boat this way.
Try at your own risk.
Yada yada ...
Regards,
RonB
>First: This is in regard to using the Hulls program to get the shapesSample, I have:
>of lapstrakes. I am contemplating a "Queen Mab", which is a lapstrake
>design. I have found the Hulls program and have been messing around
>with it, but have not been having too much success with it. Can
>anyone point me in the direction of where to go to find some more
>complete directions or perhaps some samples so I can see how the
>program works?
http://home.mebtel.net/~rbutterfield/boats/launch.HUL
I have the plans for the Fisherman's Launch from BWAOM, and wondered what
she would look like in lapstrake. Not knowing anything about how to develop
a shape for lapstrake planks, I embarked on a tedious trial and error
process. Don't laugh too hard, now, ok?
First, I took the offsets into Cad and drew all the frames, plus the
profile. From that, I chose the 3 frames I would input to Hulls. Still in
Cad, I did my best to come up with an acceptable garboard shape, and
plotted that on my 5 frames (transom, 3 frames, and stem).
Then, on the transom and 3 frames, I took the remaining frame-amount and
divided it by 8 (I am using a 10 chine shape in hulls, which gives me 9
planks if I ignore the skeg/keel). This gave me a series of points that I
plotted on the profile, and then extrapolated from to get my chine points
on the stem.
I then took the measurements of each of these points, measured them, and
entered them into a spreadsheet in the same layout hulls uses for the offsets.
I then opened Hulls, opened a file, and changed the chine count to 10. I
gave it a new name and folder (a tedious process in itself), then opened
the Offsets Table. After hiding the main window (to avoid the distraction
of points bouncing all over the place, I manually entered the data from the
spreadsheet in each cell of the Offsets Table. When that was done, any
typos showed up as discontinuities in the displayed model.
Then, from File, Save/Create, choose the path you want the files to be
created in (it must be the same in all three windows [file name,
directories, and export path] or Hulls will crash when you try to save).
Choose the files you want created (in my instance, expansions, dxf and
transom), then click save. Then a dxf file will be written for a 3-view
(_filename.dxf_) the transom, and each chine.
You can then open them up with a Cad program, and massage them so that they
are a bit closer to reality. These are all created as line segments, and
you will get smoother results if you plot a spline curve at the frame
points insted. You will also need to add the material for the laps, as
these chine#.dxf's will only be point to point. Once you get your smooth
chines, you can then past that into another Cad file so that you can play
with nesting on your material.
Once that is finished, you can either take that layout to a plotter, or lay
out offsets to transfer these measurements directly to your material.
Your mileage may vary.
I have not built a boat this way.
Try at your own risk.
Yada yada ...
Regards,
RonB
Hulls does NOT give you error messages. When you specify too many chines,
it just quits.
To get the six strakes for my Chebacco, I made two passes. The first with a
wide garboard, the second with a wide sheer strake. The intervening strakes
matched to better than my standard of workmanship. (The model I made was
not a fair test since I got in a hurry and made a lousy building ladder.)
(pun intended)
I'm not planning to make ultra-precise bevels where the strakes lap. Epoxy
filled joints are recommended in some book that I'm too lazy to look up
right now. Since I'll be building upside down, it should be straightforward
to fill them while also treating the uncoated edges of the strakes. (Right
now I'm precoating the insides and glassing the outsides of the strakes.)
I'll let you know how well it worked when I start hanging them on the molds
and bulkheads.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
it just quits.
To get the six strakes for my Chebacco, I made two passes. The first with a
wide garboard, the second with a wide sheer strake. The intervening strakes
matched to better than my standard of workmanship. (The model I made was
not a fair test since I got in a hurry and made a lousy building ladder.)
(pun intended)
I'm not planning to make ultra-precise bevels where the strakes lap. Epoxy
filled joints are recommended in some book that I'm too lazy to look up
right now. Since I'll be building upside down, it should be straightforward
to fill them while also treating the uncoated edges of the strakes. (Right
now I'm precoating the insides and glassing the outsides of the strakes.)
I'll let you know how well it worked when I start hanging them on the molds
and bulkheads.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Coho" <abcoho@...>
> Two things:
>
> First: This is in regard to using the Hulls program to get the shapes
> of lapstrakes. I am contemplating a "Queen Mab", which is a lapstrake
> design. I have found the Hulls program and have been messing around
> with it, but have not been having too much success with it. Can
> anyone point me in the direction of where to go to find some more
> complete directions or perhaps some samples so I can see how the
> program works?
>
> I checked with a local Kinkos and they have a plotter that can print
> out the files. I have done one other lapstrake hull. Finding the
> shape of and fitting the laps was fairly time consuming. If I can
> just get the basic shapes out of the program and then fit them, it
> would **greatly** speed up the building process. Might even get it in
> the water this year.
>
> Second: In the long - lost "Small Boat Journal", where I first found
> the designs of Phil Bolger (there, I kept this part of the post "on
> topic"), there were ads for an "on-board rower" It was a sliding
> feet rowing unit that strapped onto a sailboard. Since I recently
> came into possesion of a sailboard, I was trying to find additional
> uses for it and remembered the ads from a long time ago. (I am not
> very good at sailboarding and find it mostly a good excuse to go
> swimming in a fairly undignified fashion, with a long white plank).
>
> I lost my issues of SBJ during a move a while ago. I have searched
> the web, but am not finding too many hits on sliding feet rowers.
> Those that I have found are just not what I am looking for.
>
> Anyone out there who might know something? I need to get on the water
> for now and thought rowing might actually be good for me as well as a
> little less damaging to my currently less than perfectly athletic ego.
>
> Bruce
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Did you download the alternative tutorial it will help and
doubleclicking points and checking the X,Y,Z Can help it takes a
while to lurn all the ways things work. I find it easyest to save a
work in progress as the defalt when you close and to back it up by
copying it from the hulls file to a personal file in MY DOCUMENTS.
Jon
doubleclicking points and checking the X,Y,Z Can help it takes a
while to lurn all the ways things work. I find it easyest to save a
work in progress as the defalt when you close and to back it up by
copying it from the hulls file to a personal file in MY DOCUMENTS.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Coho" <abcoho@v...> wrote:
> Two things:
>
> First: This is in regard to using the Hulls program to get the
shapes
> of lapstrakes. I am contemplating a "Queen Mab", which is a
lapstrake
> design. I have found the Hulls program and have been messing
around
> with it, but have not been having too much success with it. Can
> anyone point me in the direction of where to go to find some more
> complete directions or perhaps some samples so I can see how the
> program works?
>
Two things:
First: This is in regard to using the Hulls program to get the shapes
of lapstrakes. I am contemplating a "Queen Mab", which is a lapstrake
design. I have found the Hulls program and have been messing around
with it, but have not been having too much success with it. Can
anyone point me in the direction of where to go to find some more
complete directions or perhaps some samples so I can see how the
program works?
I checked with a local Kinkos and they have a plotter that can print
out the files. I have done one other lapstrake hull. Finding the
shape of and fitting the laps was fairly time consuming. If I can
just get the basic shapes out of the program and then fit them, it
would **greatly** speed up the building process. Might even get it in
the water this year.
Second: In the long - lost "Small Boat Journal", where I first found
the designs of Phil Bolger (there, I kept this part of the post "on
topic"), there were ads for an "on-board rower" It was a sliding
feet rowing unit that strapped onto a sailboard. Since I recently
came into possesion of a sailboard, I was trying to find additional
uses for it and remembered the ads from a long time ago. (I am not
very good at sailboarding and find it mostly a good excuse to go
swimming in a fairly undignified fashion, with a long white plank).
I lost my issues of SBJ during a move a while ago. I have searched
the web, but am not finding too many hits on sliding feet rowers.
Those that I have found are just not what I am looking for.
Anyone out there who might know something? I need to get on the water
for now and thought rowing might actually be good for me as well as a
little less damaging to my currently less than perfectly athletic ego.
Bruce
First: This is in regard to using the Hulls program to get the shapes
of lapstrakes. I am contemplating a "Queen Mab", which is a lapstrake
design. I have found the Hulls program and have been messing around
with it, but have not been having too much success with it. Can
anyone point me in the direction of where to go to find some more
complete directions or perhaps some samples so I can see how the
program works?
I checked with a local Kinkos and they have a plotter that can print
out the files. I have done one other lapstrake hull. Finding the
shape of and fitting the laps was fairly time consuming. If I can
just get the basic shapes out of the program and then fit them, it
would **greatly** speed up the building process. Might even get it in
the water this year.
Second: In the long - lost "Small Boat Journal", where I first found
the designs of Phil Bolger (there, I kept this part of the post "on
topic"), there were ads for an "on-board rower" It was a sliding
feet rowing unit that strapped onto a sailboard. Since I recently
came into possesion of a sailboard, I was trying to find additional
uses for it and remembered the ads from a long time ago. (I am not
very good at sailboarding and find it mostly a good excuse to go
swimming in a fairly undignified fashion, with a long white plank).
I lost my issues of SBJ during a move a while ago. I have searched
the web, but am not finding too many hits on sliding feet rowers.
Those that I have found are just not what I am looking for.
Anyone out there who might know something? I need to get on the water
for now and thought rowing might actually be good for me as well as a
little less damaging to my currently less than perfectly athletic ego.
Bruce