Re: [bolger] Early reactions to the His and Her Schooner
The weighted dagerboard (drop keel) solves and creates a number of problems.
If I were to build one, I would think about cutting teethe in the back of
the board and installing a screw jack to raise or lower it. Might work.
John T
If I were to build one, I would think about cutting teethe in the back of
the board and installing a screw jack to raise or lower it. Might work.
John T
----- Original Message -----
From: "Susan Davis" <futabachan@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2005 12:15 PM
Subject: [bolger] Early reactions to the His and Her Schooner
> I still haven't had her out yet with the daggerboard all the way down,
> so I can't comment on her helm balance, but leaving the jib down
> compensated for the aftward shift in her lateral resistance well
> enough that I was able to sail successfully for a week of afternoons,
> with the only problem being the need to manually clear the foresail
> boom over the top of the daggerboard when tacking.
>
> With a fresh breeze, the tension on the main and foresail sheets gets
> heavy enough that I think I really want a 2:1 purchase on both. I had
> to use both hands to trim them. If I had had a chance to install the
> tiller comb before launch (I drove to the launch site with a coat of
> varnish drying on my tiller and epoxy curing in the last holes that I
> drilled), it would have been easier.
>
> I think I have the luff lacing reasonably well figured out, but how do
> you tension the luff? Running the luff lacing through the tack
> cringle keeps the tack up against the mast, but the boom jaws are in
> the way of tying the tack to the boom.
>
> Also, how do rigs such as this control twist in the main and
> foresails? The sheet is rigged in a vang-y sort of way that works
> well enough upwind, but offwind, the boom rises, and the gaff goes
> forward farther than I'd like. I do have signal halyards (for the
> ensign and a courtesy flag) rigged up to my peaks, that could be used
> as gaff vangs in a pinch, but I'll have to think about some sort of
> simple vanging arrangement.
>
> The boat is supremely comforable for lounging, at least in the main
> cockpit. Due to scheduling hiccups, I was never able to get a
> passenger out with me, so I can't comment on how comfortable the
> forward cockpit is, especially with the boat heeled. The cockpit
> coaming is an obvious place to sit when the wind pipes up -- and
> there's even a picture of Tony Grove sitting there on Payson's site --
> but 3/4 inch mahogany isn't very comfortable for my derriere. I'm
> tempted to double or triple the coaming thickness at the very top.
>
> I've been sailing racing sloops for most of my life (and just bought
> another one for a pittance), and I really need to break myself of the
> bad habit of trying to sail _Shrike_ too high.
>
> The daggerboard is a bit of a beast. I can raise it by standing on
> the deck and lifting with my legs, but I have a black belt in Tae Kwon
> Do. Also, the deck doesn't seem to be quite strong enough between the
> cockpits, and I have to be careful to place my feet near the deck
> stringers. At some point, I'll consider reinforcing the deck around
> there, which will be a royal pain because I have flotation foam
> fastened to the underside of the deck throughout the boat.
>
> A possible solution to the daggerboard problem might be to pull the
> boat over on her side using the masts, and to slide the daggerboard
> out horizontally. It remains to be seen whether the cockpit will
> flood under those circumstances.
>
> The jammed daggerboard was a blessing in disguise, actually -- the
> slip that I was assigned for the week was in 18 inches of water. I
> had to raise and lower the rudder every time I went out. At some
> point, I managed to bend either the shaft or the tip weld holding the
> rudder on, which I need to fix.
>
> I rigged the boat with cam cleats fastened to the underside of the
> mainmast partner for the sheets, rather than the belaying pins called
> for in the plans. The control lines run through holes drilled in the
> forward face of the cockpit coaming. It works really well, but I
> should have placed my block for the foresail sheet a little farther
> outboard -- it rubs against the forward cockpit coaming. I'll have to
> add an additional fairlead for it, as the eyestrap holding the block
> in is so firmly secured that I don't want to even attempt moving it.
>
> One oversight in the plans: a cleat or cleats at the stern for mooring
> in a slip or alongside a pier.
>
> The plans seem to imply just one cleat at the front of each mast, for
> all halyards and the topping lift. I installed two, which just barely
> does it for the foremast, where there are four controls to belay.
>
> I'm still uncertain what the cleats on the forward face of the aft
> cockpit coaming are for. I used one to secure a spring line, and
> another for the main topping lift.
>
> I need to rig up a retaining pin and/or line for the daggerboard, to
> prevent it from sliding out when the boat is knocked down or rolls over.
>
> Nexus makes a wonderful racing compass that can be used as either a
> steering compass or a hand bearing compass. There's a holder that
> screws down to a deck or bulkhead that the handle slides into.
>
> So far, her chief disadvantage has been that I've had to stop to
> answer hails from every single boat that's passed me, complimenting me
> on the boat and inquiring about her....
>
> --
> Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
>
>
>
>
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Would the following work as a substitute for a boom vang/kicking
strap? Get a piece of stong material (maybe aluminium plate with heavy
ply on each side to make it rigid) in the shape of a thick letter L.
Drill a hole near each end and in the middle. Attach the middle to the
gooseneck with a line. With two short lengths of wire rope (and
suitable eyes, tangs, shackles or whatever), attach one end to the
boom (at the point where a boom vang would be attached) and the other
to the mast just above deck level.
If it's strong enough, this would work just like a vang, but provide
more clearance for heads, daggerboard etc.
Howard
strap? Get a piece of stong material (maybe aluminium plate with heavy
ply on each side to make it rigid) in the shape of a thick letter L.
Drill a hole near each end and in the middle. Attach the middle to the
gooseneck with a line. With two short lengths of wire rope (and
suitable eyes, tangs, shackles or whatever), attach one end to the
boom (at the point where a boom vang would be attached) and the other
to the mast just above deck level.
If it's strong enough, this would work just like a vang, but provide
more clearance for heads, daggerboard etc.
Howard
> I am curious of your description of hauling the boat aroundI haven't weighed her. It takes four adults in good shape to lift
> out of the water. How much does it weight, and how do
> you drag or carrying it around?
her, as I added flotation to the undersides of the decks and a heck of
a lot of xynole and epoxy to the outside. I keep her on a converted
Y-Flyer trailer, and had no trouble retrieving her on Saturday, even
without a winch on the trailer. I had to take her off the trailer
yesterday to rasp out the bottom of the daggerboard slot to let the
daggerboard all the way down; getting her back on the trailer on land
is an unpleasant job.
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
> As for signal halyards, I had too many bad experiences (perhaps dueI find mine terribly useful for furling the sails, especially as the
> mostly to inexperience) and got rid of mine.
tail of the foresail sheet doesn't live anywhere near the foresail
boom when the boat is put away. I do need to look into having sail
covers made, and cockpit covers, too.
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
Great report, Susan!
Schooner. However, since you can't do that on the mainsail in your
boat, you might try the Hereshoff strut - it's a solid piece of wood
that attaches to the boom where any boom vang would, but it has a jaw
that goes on the mast above the boom. There's a control line that
leads from this jaw and belays where convenient. Pulling on the
control line pulls the jaw lower and thus forces the boom to flatten
down the sail. Phil drew a plan for one of these for me to put on
Meteor's foresail, but since the long horse was doing the job, I
haven't built it. Recently, though, while running wing and wing
("read'n both pages") in more than light wind, I wish I'd had it on
both sails. If you try this, remember that the force of the strut
will try to push the boom jaw off of the mast, so the parrel on that
jaw must be very low-stretch.
As for signal halyards, I had too many bad experiences (perhaps due
mostly to inexperience) and got rid of mine. When lowering sail,
these things can get all over the place unless you've come up with a
way to handle two halyards and still account for where that signal
halyard is getting to. I've had mine wrap itself around the tiller,
the corner of the stern, the motor head (not a problem for you), and
finally jam a mainsheet block before I got rid of it. Instead, I put
grommets in the leech of both sails and attach flags using brass
keyrings - flag and sail go up and down together with no jams now.
stop anymore.
Jon Kolb
> Also, how do rigs such as this control twist in the main andThe long traveller horse idea works great on our Light (Cat)
> foresails? The sheet is rigged in a vang-y sort of way that works
> well enough upwind, but offwind, the boom rises, and the gaff goes
> forward farther than I'd like. I do have signal halyards (for the
> ensign and a courtesy flag) rigged up to my peaks, that could be
> used
> as gaff vangs in a pinch, but I'll have to think about some sort of
> simple vanging arrangement.
Schooner. However, since you can't do that on the mainsail in your
boat, you might try the Hereshoff strut - it's a solid piece of wood
that attaches to the boom where any boom vang would, but it has a jaw
that goes on the mast above the boom. There's a control line that
leads from this jaw and belays where convenient. Pulling on the
control line pulls the jaw lower and thus forces the boom to flatten
down the sail. Phil drew a plan for one of these for me to put on
Meteor's foresail, but since the long horse was doing the job, I
haven't built it. Recently, though, while running wing and wing
("read'n both pages") in more than light wind, I wish I'd had it on
both sails. If you try this, remember that the force of the strut
will try to push the boom jaw off of the mast, so the parrel on that
jaw must be very low-stretch.
As for signal halyards, I had too many bad experiences (perhaps due
mostly to inexperience) and got rid of mine. When lowering sail,
these things can get all over the place unless you've come up with a
way to handle two halyards and still account for where that signal
halyard is getting to. I've had mine wrap itself around the tiller,
the corner of the stern, the motor head (not a problem for you), and
finally jam a mainsheet block before I got rid of it. Instead, I put
grommets in the leech of both sails and attach flags using brass
keyrings - flag and sail go up and down together with no jams now.
> I'm still uncertain what the cleats on the forward face of the aftForesail and staysail sheets, I'd guess, for long tacks.
> cockpit coaming are for. I used one to secure a spring line, and
> another for the main topping lift.
> So far, her chief disadvantage has been that I've had to stop tome
> answer hails from every single boat that's passed me, complimenting
> on the boat and inquiring about her....I have the same problem, and don't mind it a bit, except that I don't
stop anymore.
Jon Kolb
> the daggerboard problemThe mainmast is just inches away and almost
directly above the daggerboard. I would try
to rig a pully on the mast, just above
the highest point the gaff jaw can reach.
You could go multi-part, but I bet a single
pully would do it.
> I suspect that the explanation has much to do with theIn my experience with Cape Code catboats, this is not a bit problem
> tendency of the gaff to sag to leeward. This is normally quoted as a
> deficiency of the rig; usually by people who've never used it.
while beating. The cat I had years ago, a Cynthia J., had a very long
and low-angled gaff which could be expected to sag a lot, but I was
never troubled by it. Bolger does comment somewhere that the geometry
does not control the shape as well as does the Bermuda rig. He also
notes that the trouble begins when the sheets are eased, and suggests
long travelers so the pull of the sheet can be down as much as
possible to pull the twist out of the sail. That's what a vang does,
after all.
The Cynthia J boom is very heavy. It was big help controlling twist in
light to moderate breezes. 17' long as I recall. I doubt you would
care to build the schooner boom as heavy.
A single-handed schooner skipper would not be much inconvenienced by a
vang on the fore, but a vang on the main could be seriously in the
way. It'll be harder to get a wide traveler on the main, too. You
might look into using a mid-boom sheet on the main, running to cam
block on centerline of the floor of the cockpit. I don't have a clear
recollection of the cockpit geometry.
The "sag in gust to relieve pressure" theory certainly has some truth
to it, and letting the top of the sail twist off is one of the ways
that racers de-power in a breeze. It's another one of those ideas that
circulate on paper among folks with limited experience. I had a laugh
at a review of a Hunter Vision series yacht. These have an unstayed
mast with a big main and a blade jib. The reviewer noted that the
flexible mast let the top of the sail sag in a breeze and complained
that it gave the boat weather helm. (The weather helm would have come
from either a) the boat heeling too much, or b) the bottom of the sail
being sheeted in too tight.) My take is that the reviewer was an
experienced sailor of limited analysis skills who did not like the
unstayed rig and was not going to give it good marks, or see it for
what it was: a simplified rig for unambitious sailers.
Peter
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Susan Davis" <futabachan@y...> wrote:
main boom - a clove hitch around the boom with the tail made fast
near the heel of the mast."
rig on the same boat (gaff then Bermudan), but I met one last
summer. He lost his gaff rig together with topsail over the bows in
the Yare Navigation race and decided to take the opportunity to go
bermudian. In spite of cutting a hundred square feet from the
mainsail, he was surprised to find that he had to add another three
and a half hundredweight of ballast to the keel to restore her
original stiffness, which seems to answer the criticism that gaff
rig has too much weight aloft.
All in the sag
I suspect that the explanation has much to do with the
tendency of the gaff to sag to leeward. This is normally quoted as a
deficiency of the rig; usually by people who've never used it. In
practise, this is a major safety factor for, as the boat heels to a
squall, the sagging gaff lets much of the force of the wind escape
harmlessly over the top. In the same situation a bermudian rigged
craft with a kicking strap holding the mainsail flat, can only
relieve the pressure of the wind by heeling over even further.
The point I've tried so laboriously to make is that if you
spend a lot of time beating over the tide, go bermudian. If you can
so order your affairs as to normally work a fair tide to windward,
gaff rig will serve you better....." (Lets go Gaff at Charles Stock
and Shoal Watershttp://shoal-waters.moonfruit.com/)
lend a hand to get H&H off the trailer. He kept the total weight of
the board to 125lbs so two people could lift it out, yet I know even
an unweighted Sabot daggerboard can stick and be awkward to lift.
What about a hook from a tackle slung from a folding tripod. The
tripod could straddle the board and its feet could be arranged to
clip over the coamings, or other strong points, in a way to prevent
slippage. Sheer legs might do, perhaps stabilised with their feet
athwartships and a line tied from the top to each mast fore and aft,
but watch out for sudden waves. Lift the board up, out, and lay
down. The lifting gear would fold up, and be stored in the car. In
the past, mentally sailing H&H, I've thought about some kinds of
onboard permanent lifting device to raise the keel, at most to be
flush with the bottom, if very carefully negotiating shallows or
beaching.
alternately slackened or tightened depending on tack when running.
Is there a way to give the forward cockpit a solid hatch cover?
Graeme
> Also, how do rigs such as this control twist in the main andBolger says with a long run in prospect "rig a makeshift vang on the
> foresails? The sheet is rigged in a vang-y sort of way that works
> well enough upwind, but offwind, the boom rises, and the gaff goes
> forward farther than I'd like.
main boom - a clove hitch around the boom with the tail made fast
near the heel of the mast."
>I do have signal halyards (for the ensign and a courtesy flag)Charles Stock says, "...Few people have experience of both types of
>rigged up to my peaks, that could be usedas gaff vangs in a pinch,
>but I'll have to think about some sort ofsimple vanging arrangement.
rig on the same boat (gaff then Bermudan), but I met one last
summer. He lost his gaff rig together with topsail over the bows in
the Yare Navigation race and decided to take the opportunity to go
bermudian. In spite of cutting a hundred square feet from the
mainsail, he was surprised to find that he had to add another three
and a half hundredweight of ballast to the keel to restore her
original stiffness, which seems to answer the criticism that gaff
rig has too much weight aloft.
All in the sag
I suspect that the explanation has much to do with the
tendency of the gaff to sag to leeward. This is normally quoted as a
deficiency of the rig; usually by people who've never used it. In
practise, this is a major safety factor for, as the boat heels to a
squall, the sagging gaff lets much of the force of the wind escape
harmlessly over the top. In the same situation a bermudian rigged
craft with a kicking strap holding the mainsail flat, can only
relieve the pressure of the wind by heeling over even further.
The point I've tried so laboriously to make is that if you
spend a lot of time beating over the tide, go bermudian. If you can
so order your affairs as to normally work a fair tide to windward,
gaff rig will serve you better....." (Lets go Gaff at Charles Stock
and Shoal Watershttp://shoal-waters.moonfruit.com/)
> A possible solution to the daggerboard problem might be to pull theBolger thought those inquiring bystanders might be called upon to
> boat over on her side using the masts, and to slide the daggerboard
> out horizontally. .
lend a hand to get H&H off the trailer. He kept the total weight of
the board to 125lbs so two people could lift it out, yet I know even
an unweighted Sabot daggerboard can stick and be awkward to lift.
What about a hook from a tackle slung from a folding tripod. The
tripod could straddle the board and its feet could be arranged to
clip over the coamings, or other strong points, in a way to prevent
slippage. Sheer legs might do, perhaps stabilised with their feet
athwartships and a line tied from the top to each mast fore and aft,
but watch out for sudden waves. Lift the board up, out, and lay
down. The lifting gear would fold up, and be stored in the car. In
the past, mentally sailing H&H, I've thought about some kinds of
onboard permanent lifting device to raise the keel, at most to be
flush with the bottom, if very carefully negotiating shallows or
beaching.
> One oversight in the plans: a cleat or cleats at the stern forAnd for towing the outboard in a watertight kayak.
>mooring in a slip or alongside a pier.
> I'm still uncertain what the cleats on the forward face of the aftPerhaps these are for port and starboard gaff peak guys. The guys
> cockpit coaming are for. I used one to secure a spring line, and
> another for the main topping lift.
alternately slackened or tightened depending on tack when running.
> So far, her chief disadvantage has been that I've had to stop toYes, I'd bet on that.
> answer hails from every single boat that's passed me,
>complimenting me on the boat and inquiring about her....
Is there a way to give the forward cockpit a solid hatch cover?
Graeme
At 4:15 PM +0000 8/7/05, Susan Davis wrote:
I think I have the luff lacing reasonably well figured out, but how do
you tension the luff? Running the luff lacing through the tack
cringle keeps the tack up against the mast, but the boom jaws are in
the way of tying the tack to the boom.
I'm not sure I understand the question. (1) Drill a hole (or holes) for the
line in the jaws or (2) just loop it around the jaws and all.
I'm sure you know that w/ a gaff rig you raise the halyard(s) and then
bowse down the tack, and a purchase on the tack line might be helpful.
An alternative is to have a ring or shoe on the mast which holds the jaws
to a certain amount of vertical movement, so hugh and no higher, but this
may only work on larger rigs with heavier spars.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I think I have the luff lacing reasonably well figured out, but how do
you tension the luff? Running the luff lacing through the tack
cringle keeps the tack up against the mast, but the boom jaws are in
the way of tying the tack to the boom.
I'm not sure I understand the question. (1) Drill a hole (or holes) for the
line in the jaws or (2) just loop it around the jaws and all.
I'm sure you know that w/ a gaff rig you raise the halyard(s) and then
bowse down the tack, and a purchase on the tack line might be helpful.
An alternative is to have a ring or shoe on the mast which holds the jaws
to a certain amount of vertical movement, so hugh and no higher, but this
may only work on larger rigs with heavier spars.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Susan,
Thanks for the long report on your schooner. It's amazing how much
messin' about it takes to get these little boats sorted out.
About sail twist. The first possibility to for you to just get over
it. Hard to do if you are race-trained, but I noted in some pictures
that Gary Jobson puts up with considerable twist in the sail of his
LFH Knockabout, so... The best fix is the same as for the boats you
are used to: a good boom vang. I don't have practical experience, but
I'm dubious about the gaff vang. It's possible that wider travelers
would help. Finally, you could rig lines from mid-boom to blocks on
the rail that could be tightened to act as both preventers and boom
hold-downs.
(Both sides, both sails! Geesh!)
All the fixes mean more strings to pull. Just what you want!!
Peter
Thanks for the long report on your schooner. It's amazing how much
messin' about it takes to get these little boats sorted out.
About sail twist. The first possibility to for you to just get over
it. Hard to do if you are race-trained, but I noted in some pictures
that Gary Jobson puts up with considerable twist in the sail of his
LFH Knockabout, so... The best fix is the same as for the boats you
are used to: a good boom vang. I don't have practical experience, but
I'm dubious about the gaff vang. It's possible that wider travelers
would help. Finally, you could rig lines from mid-boom to blocks on
the rail that could be tightened to act as both preventers and boom
hold-downs.
(Both sides, both sails! Geesh!)
All the fixes mean more strings to pull. Just what you want!!
Peter
On 8/7/05, Susan Davis wrote:
I am curious of your description of hauling the boat around
out of the water. How much does it weight, and how do
you drag or carrying it around?
> So far, her chief disadvantage has been that I've had to stop toThat sounds familiar, good job!
> answer hails from every single boat that's passed me, complimenting me
> on the boat and inquiring about her....
I am curious of your description of hauling the boat around
out of the water. How much does it weight, and how do
you drag or carrying it around?
--- Susan Davis <futabachan@...> wrote:
A whole lot of great info about her first sail!
Congratulations!
Please consider sending your coments as a fax to PB&F.
You know they won't read them here and I'm sure they'd
love to hear your impressions even more than we do.
Phil Smith
A whole lot of great info about her first sail!
Congratulations!
Please consider sending your coments as a fax to PB&F.
You know they won't read them here and I'm sure they'd
love to hear your impressions even more than we do.
Phil Smith
I still haven't had her out yet with the daggerboard all the way down,
so I can't comment on her helm balance, but leaving the jib down
compensated for the aftward shift in her lateral resistance well
enough that I was able to sail successfully for a week of afternoons,
with the only problem being the need to manually clear the foresail
boom over the top of the daggerboard when tacking.
With a fresh breeze, the tension on the main and foresail sheets gets
heavy enough that I think I really want a 2:1 purchase on both. I had
to use both hands to trim them. If I had had a chance to install the
tiller comb before launch (I drove to the launch site with a coat of
varnish drying on my tiller and epoxy curing in the last holes that I
drilled), it would have been easier.
I think I have the luff lacing reasonably well figured out, but how do
you tension the luff? Running the luff lacing through the tack
cringle keeps the tack up against the mast, but the boom jaws are in
the way of tying the tack to the boom.
Also, how do rigs such as this control twist in the main and
foresails? The sheet is rigged in a vang-y sort of way that works
well enough upwind, but offwind, the boom rises, and the gaff goes
forward farther than I'd like. I do have signal halyards (for the
ensign and a courtesy flag) rigged up to my peaks, that could be used
as gaff vangs in a pinch, but I'll have to think about some sort of
simple vanging arrangement.
The boat is supremely comforable for lounging, at least in the main
cockpit. Due to scheduling hiccups, I was never able to get a
passenger out with me, so I can't comment on how comfortable the
forward cockpit is, especially with the boat heeled. The cockpit
coaming is an obvious place to sit when the wind pipes up -- and
there's even a picture of Tony Grove sitting there on Payson's site --
but 3/4 inch mahogany isn't very comfortable for my derriere. I'm
tempted to double or triple the coaming thickness at the very top.
I've been sailing racing sloops for most of my life (and just bought
another one for a pittance), and I really need to break myself of the
bad habit of trying to sail _Shrike_ too high.
The daggerboard is a bit of a beast. I can raise it by standing on
the deck and lifting with my legs, but I have a black belt in Tae Kwon
Do. Also, the deck doesn't seem to be quite strong enough between the
cockpits, and I have to be careful to place my feet near the deck
stringers. At some point, I'll consider reinforcing the deck around
there, which will be a royal pain because I have flotation foam
fastened to the underside of the deck throughout the boat.
A possible solution to the daggerboard problem might be to pull the
boat over on her side using the masts, and to slide the daggerboard
out horizontally. It remains to be seen whether the cockpit will
flood under those circumstances.
The jammed daggerboard was a blessing in disguise, actually -- the
slip that I was assigned for the week was in 18 inches of water. I
had to raise and lower the rudder every time I went out. At some
point, I managed to bend either the shaft or the tip weld holding the
rudder on, which I need to fix.
I rigged the boat with cam cleats fastened to the underside of the
mainmast partner for the sheets, rather than the belaying pins called
for in the plans. The control lines run through holes drilled in the
forward face of the cockpit coaming. It works really well, but I
should have placed my block for the foresail sheet a little farther
outboard -- it rubs against the forward cockpit coaming. I'll have to
add an additional fairlead for it, as the eyestrap holding the block
in is so firmly secured that I don't want to even attempt moving it.
One oversight in the plans: a cleat or cleats at the stern for mooring
in a slip or alongside a pier.
The plans seem to imply just one cleat at the front of each mast, for
all halyards and the topping lift. I installed two, which just barely
does it for the foremast, where there are four controls to belay.
I'm still uncertain what the cleats on the forward face of the aft
cockpit coaming are for. I used one to secure a spring line, and
another for the main topping lift.
I need to rig up a retaining pin and/or line for the daggerboard, to
prevent it from sliding out when the boat is knocked down or rolls over.
Nexus makes a wonderful racing compass that can be used as either a
steering compass or a hand bearing compass. There's a holder that
screws down to a deck or bulkhead that the handle slides into.
So far, her chief disadvantage has been that I've had to stop to
answer hails from every single boat that's passed me, complimenting me
on the boat and inquiring about her....
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
so I can't comment on her helm balance, but leaving the jib down
compensated for the aftward shift in her lateral resistance well
enough that I was able to sail successfully for a week of afternoons,
with the only problem being the need to manually clear the foresail
boom over the top of the daggerboard when tacking.
With a fresh breeze, the tension on the main and foresail sheets gets
heavy enough that I think I really want a 2:1 purchase on both. I had
to use both hands to trim them. If I had had a chance to install the
tiller comb before launch (I drove to the launch site with a coat of
varnish drying on my tiller and epoxy curing in the last holes that I
drilled), it would have been easier.
I think I have the luff lacing reasonably well figured out, but how do
you tension the luff? Running the luff lacing through the tack
cringle keeps the tack up against the mast, but the boom jaws are in
the way of tying the tack to the boom.
Also, how do rigs such as this control twist in the main and
foresails? The sheet is rigged in a vang-y sort of way that works
well enough upwind, but offwind, the boom rises, and the gaff goes
forward farther than I'd like. I do have signal halyards (for the
ensign and a courtesy flag) rigged up to my peaks, that could be used
as gaff vangs in a pinch, but I'll have to think about some sort of
simple vanging arrangement.
The boat is supremely comforable for lounging, at least in the main
cockpit. Due to scheduling hiccups, I was never able to get a
passenger out with me, so I can't comment on how comfortable the
forward cockpit is, especially with the boat heeled. The cockpit
coaming is an obvious place to sit when the wind pipes up -- and
there's even a picture of Tony Grove sitting there on Payson's site --
but 3/4 inch mahogany isn't very comfortable for my derriere. I'm
tempted to double or triple the coaming thickness at the very top.
I've been sailing racing sloops for most of my life (and just bought
another one for a pittance), and I really need to break myself of the
bad habit of trying to sail _Shrike_ too high.
The daggerboard is a bit of a beast. I can raise it by standing on
the deck and lifting with my legs, but I have a black belt in Tae Kwon
Do. Also, the deck doesn't seem to be quite strong enough between the
cockpits, and I have to be careful to place my feet near the deck
stringers. At some point, I'll consider reinforcing the deck around
there, which will be a royal pain because I have flotation foam
fastened to the underside of the deck throughout the boat.
A possible solution to the daggerboard problem might be to pull the
boat over on her side using the masts, and to slide the daggerboard
out horizontally. It remains to be seen whether the cockpit will
flood under those circumstances.
The jammed daggerboard was a blessing in disguise, actually -- the
slip that I was assigned for the week was in 18 inches of water. I
had to raise and lower the rudder every time I went out. At some
point, I managed to bend either the shaft or the tip weld holding the
rudder on, which I need to fix.
I rigged the boat with cam cleats fastened to the underside of the
mainmast partner for the sheets, rather than the belaying pins called
for in the plans. The control lines run through holes drilled in the
forward face of the cockpit coaming. It works really well, but I
should have placed my block for the foresail sheet a little farther
outboard -- it rubs against the forward cockpit coaming. I'll have to
add an additional fairlead for it, as the eyestrap holding the block
in is so firmly secured that I don't want to even attempt moving it.
One oversight in the plans: a cleat or cleats at the stern for mooring
in a slip or alongside a pier.
The plans seem to imply just one cleat at the front of each mast, for
all halyards and the topping lift. I installed two, which just barely
does it for the foremast, where there are four controls to belay.
I'm still uncertain what the cleats on the forward face of the aft
cockpit coaming are for. I used one to secure a spring line, and
another for the main topping lift.
I need to rig up a retaining pin and/or line for the daggerboard, to
prevent it from sliding out when the boat is knocked down or rolls over.
Nexus makes a wonderful racing compass that can be used as either a
steering compass or a hand bearing compass. There's a holder that
screws down to a deck or bulkhead that the handle slides into.
So far, her chief disadvantage has been that I've had to stop to
answer hails from every single boat that's passed me, complimenting me
on the boat and inquiring about her....
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>