Re: Glassing with film
?? seems there are two different materials mentioned here. In the
article they are talking about polyester film, you're talking lexan
which is polycarbonate, not the same thing. Wonder which works
best. I seem to remember that you can bond lexan (polycarbonate)
with epoxy so you might not want to remove the protective film
without doing some testing. It may well be the protective film that
is keeping this stuff from bonding to the epoxy.
Bill H.
article they are talking about polyester film, you're talking lexan
which is polycarbonate, not the same thing. Wonder which works
best. I seem to remember that you can bond lexan (polycarbonate)
with epoxy so you might not want to remove the protective film
without doing some testing. It may well be the protective film that
is keeping this stuff from bonding to the epoxy.
Bill H.
> In my experience, plastic drop cloths and even the thick furnitureFor
> vinyl you can get at Walmart are no good for doing whole panels.
> smoothing out narrow joints, sure, with adequate rolling out, etc.I
> Maybe vac bagging flattens all those wrinkles, but if not, beware.
> tried some of the Walmart furniture vinyl in my plywood-compressedlayup
> butt joints, and it left wrinkles worse than any simple open-air
> would have made. The 20 mil Lexan I bought has a stiffness near toa
> credit-card plastic. It's impossible to wrinkle. Slight waviness --
> millimeter over 6", say, is the only danger.wrapping
>
> Anyway -- if someone does try smoothing a full panel with lighter
> plastic, please let us know the results.
>
> All best,
> Garth
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Hamm" <griff10us@y...> wrote:
> > Can do the same thing with mylar film, the stuff used for
> > windows in the winter. This is basically the same thing asvacuum
> > bagging without using a vacuum. Seems it would be a heck ofalot
> > easier to use a vacuum. A regular old shop vac works well forthis.
> > Btw, plastic painters drop cloths work too.goes to
> >
> > Bill H.
> >
> >
> >
> > > By the way -- credit for the glassing with 30 mil film idea
> > > John Blazy. And to Chuck at Duckworks for disseminating it.Here's
> > > original article, which bears re-reading:
> > >
> > >http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/articles/glass/bottom.cfm
> > >
> > > Someday I hope I can make a boat look like that.
> > >
> > > All best,
> > > Garth
That is the key to my use of the furniture plastic, the feathered edge embedding the tape edges save tons of mess and fuss. The lack of plastic stiffness isn't a problem for me in this application as I'm only doing narrow 90 degree fillets, not entire panels. The "give" in the furniture plastic allows for pushing around some fillet material through the plastic to eliminate any low spots or bubbles.
The stiff lexan would be the way to go if coating panels. However, as many of you know, I long ago fled the "coat the entire hull" camp for the "epoxy/glass the fillets, butts and below the waterline only and just paint the rest" camp.
Rick
The real advantage that I see is the feathering/smoothing of
the edges of the fiberglass tape.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
The stiff lexan would be the way to go if coating panels. However, as many of you know, I long ago fled the "coat the entire hull" camp for the "epoxy/glass the fillets, butts and below the waterline only and just paint the rest" camp.
Rick
The real advantage that I see is the feathering/smoothing of
the edges of the fiberglass tape.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Like you, I tried the Wal-Mart stuff on a larger area (not a full panel),
and like you, I got wrinkles. That said, I was still ahead of where I would
have been without the plastic. The flaws had to be sanded down, filled, and
recoated, but compared with first wetting the fiberglass out, then filling
the weave, then adding a fairing coat and sanding it smooth, it was quicker
and better. The real advantage that I see is the feathering/smoothing of
the edges of the fiberglass tape.
Bubbles are the real nasties because they seem to lift the epoxy away from
the fiberglass. Either way, the surface has to be sanded to provide tooth
for the painted finish that I'm aiming for.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
and like you, I got wrinkles. That said, I was still ahead of where I would
have been without the plastic. The flaws had to be sanded down, filled, and
recoated, but compared with first wetting the fiberglass out, then filling
the weave, then adding a fairing coat and sanding it smooth, it was quicker
and better. The real advantage that I see is the feathering/smoothing of
the edges of the fiberglass tape.
Bubbles are the real nasties because they seem to lift the epoxy away from
the fiberglass. Either way, the surface has to be sanded to provide tooth
for the painted finish that I'm aiming for.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: "GarthAB" <garth@...>
> In my experience, plastic drop cloths and even the thick furniture
> vinyl you can get at Walmart are no good for doing whole panels. For
> smoothing out narrow joints, sure, with adequate rolling out, etc.
> Maybe vac bagging flattens all those wrinkles, but if not, beware. I
> tried some of the Walmart furniture vinyl in my plywood-compressed
> butt joints, and it left wrinkles worse than any simple open-air layup
> would have made. The 20 mil Lexan I bought has a stiffness near to
> credit-card plastic. It's impossible to wrinkle. Slight waviness -- a
> millimeter over 6", say, is the only danger.
>
> Anyway -- if someone does try smoothing a full panel with lighter
> plastic, please let us know the results.
>
> All best,
> Garth
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Hamm" <griff10us@y...> wrote:
>> Can do the same thing with mylar film, the stuff used for wrapping
>> windows in the winter. This is basically the same thing as vacuum
>> bagging without using a vacuum. Seems it would be a heck of alot
>> easier to use a vacuum. A regular old shop vac works well for this.
>> Btw, plastic painters drop cloths work too.
>>
>> Bill H.
>>
>>
>>
>> > By the way -- credit for the glassing with 30 mil film idea goes to
>> > John Blazy. And to Chuck at Duckworks for disseminating it. Here's
>> > original article, which bears re-reading:
>> >
>> >http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/articles/glass/bottom.cfm
>> >
>> > Someday I hope I can make a boat look like that.
>> >
>> > All best,
>> > Garth
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Hi Sam --
Yes, it's reusable. I used mine on four different 32' long panels,
with the clingy film that it arrives with still on the Lexan. By the
end of the process, I had a few epoxy stray gobs stuck on here and
there which usually flaked off with scratch of the fingernail. But if
it ever got too gummed up, I'd peel off the cling film and go with the
straight Lexan, which I imagine will work for another 4 or 8 or 20
panels if necessary. Scratches are what allow the epoxy to gain
purchase, so careful handling and storage will extend the life a lot.
Garth
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "woodcraftssuch" <woodcraftssuch@y...>
wrote:
Yes, it's reusable. I used mine on four different 32' long panels,
with the clingy film that it arrives with still on the Lexan. By the
end of the process, I had a few epoxy stray gobs stuck on here and
there which usually flaked off with scratch of the fingernail. But if
it ever got too gummed up, I'd peel off the cling film and go with the
straight Lexan, which I imagine will work for another 4 or 8 or 20
panels if necessary. Scratches are what allow the epoxy to gain
purchase, so careful handling and storage will extend the life a lot.
Garth
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "woodcraftssuch" <woodcraftssuch@y...>
wrote:
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "GarthAB" <garth@b...> wrote:
> > I got my sheet of 20 mil film (4' wide, 40' long) from GE
> > Polymershapes. > Garth
>
> Is this film re-usable? Sam
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "GarthAB" <garth@b...> wrote:
> I got my sheet of 20 mil film (4' wide, 40' long) from GEIs this film re-usable? Sam
> Polymershapes. > Garth
In my experience, plastic drop cloths and even the thick furniture
vinyl you can get at Walmart are no good for doing whole panels. For
smoothing out narrow joints, sure, with adequate rolling out, etc.
Maybe vac bagging flattens all those wrinkles, but if not, beware. I
tried some of the Walmart furniture vinyl in my plywood-compressed
butt joints, and it left wrinkles worse than any simple open-air layup
would have made. The 20 mil Lexan I bought has a stiffness near to
credit-card plastic. It's impossible to wrinkle. Slight waviness -- a
millimeter over 6", say, is the only danger.
Anyway -- if someone does try smoothing a full panel with lighter
plastic, please let us know the results.
All best,
Garth
vinyl you can get at Walmart are no good for doing whole panels. For
smoothing out narrow joints, sure, with adequate rolling out, etc.
Maybe vac bagging flattens all those wrinkles, but if not, beware. I
tried some of the Walmart furniture vinyl in my plywood-compressed
butt joints, and it left wrinkles worse than any simple open-air layup
would have made. The 20 mil Lexan I bought has a stiffness near to
credit-card plastic. It's impossible to wrinkle. Slight waviness -- a
millimeter over 6", say, is the only danger.
Anyway -- if someone does try smoothing a full panel with lighter
plastic, please let us know the results.
All best,
Garth
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Hamm" <griff10us@y...> wrote:
> Can do the same thing with mylar film, the stuff used for wrapping
> windows in the winter. This is basically the same thing as vacuum
> bagging without using a vacuum. Seems it would be a heck of alot
> easier to use a vacuum. A regular old shop vac works well for this.
> Btw, plastic painters drop cloths work too.
>
> Bill H.
>
>
>
> > By the way -- credit for the glassing with 30 mil film idea goes to
> > John Blazy. And to Chuck at Duckworks for disseminating it. Here's
> > original article, which bears re-reading:
> >
> >http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/articles/glass/bottom.cfm
> >
> > Someday I hope I can make a boat look like that.
> >
> > All best,
> > Garth
Can do the same thing with mylar film, the stuff used for wrapping
windows in the winter. This is basically the same thing as vacuum
bagging without using a vacuum. Seems it would be a heck of alot
easier to use a vacuum. A regular old shop vac works well for this.
Btw, plastic painters drop cloths work too.
Bill H.
windows in the winter. This is basically the same thing as vacuum
bagging without using a vacuum. Seems it would be a heck of alot
easier to use a vacuum. A regular old shop vac works well for this.
Btw, plastic painters drop cloths work too.
Bill H.
> By the way -- credit for the glassing with 30 mil film idea goes to
> John Blazy. And to Chuck at Duckworks for disseminating it. Here's
> original article, which bears re-reading:
>
>http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/articles/glass/bottom.cfm
>
> Someday I hope I can make a boat look like that.
>
> All best,
> Garth
Garth wrote:
in .030" x 47" for $2.54/ft in lengths up to 100'.
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=3332
Unlike Grainger, anybody can buy from McMaster, and their shipping charges
have always been quite reasonable.
Regards,
RonB
>20 mil Lexan. It came in a rollI wonder if high density polyethylene would be hard enough. McMaster has it
in .030" x 47" for $2.54/ft in lengths up to 100'.
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=3332
Unlike Grainger, anybody can buy from McMaster, and their shipping charges
have always been quite reasonable.
Regards,
RonB
-Hi Harry --
Here's what John Blazy has posted on his website
(http://www.pbase.com/dr_dichro/electric_boat):
ATTENTION ALL WHO HAVE BEEN DYING TO KNOW WHERE I GET .030" POLYESTER
FILM: ANY PLASTICS DISTRIBUTOR LIKE GE POLYMERSHAPES (FORMERLY
CADILLAC PLASTICS), CURBELL, OR LOCAL SHEET/FILM PLASTICS SUPPLIERS IN
YOUR AREA - USE THE YELLOW PAGES. TRY SIGNAGE / GRAPHICS / LAMINATORS
TOO. OTHER FILMS LIKE LEXAN IN .020 - .030 SHOULD WORK AS WELL, EVEN
WITH THE PRE-MASKING CLING FILM LEFT ON, TO ENSURE REMOVAL. AND YES,
YOU HAVE TO SCARF PIECES FOR LONGER LENGTHS UNLESS YOU CAN GET ROLL
STOCK. IT SCARFS EASILY WITH SOLVENT CEMENT.
Now that we've brought the subject up and my memory has been slowly
rewarmed like a TV dinner from the back of the freezer, I recall that
what I bought from GE Polyshapes was 20 mil Lexan. It came in a roll,
which was very essential for doing big panels -- you can't roll the
bubbles out after it's on that big an area, so you roll them out as
you go.
I think it was about $200 for the 40' x 4' roll. Not cheap, but in
doing a big boat, I was able to hide it from my accountant (that is,
the side of my brain atempting to actually keep costs under control .
. . ).
I cut off 8' of it in 6 sections sized 16" x 4' for making perfectly
smooth glass butt joints, sandwiched between MDO pieces of the same
size and screwed down -- with the screw holes filled in later. And the
remaining 32' was just right for four ply sheets end-to-end.
The really cool thing about this film technique is that you can have
varying layers of fiberglass -- like overlapping pieces, or tape
running under cloth, or extra scraps laid in at random -- and once the
film goes over it, it all comes out glass smooth on the surface. You
can do things like running an extra tape down the middle of a side
panel, for instance, to reinforce it where it will be farthest from
any framing -- but it'll be completely undetectable, with no fairing, etc.
Good luck finding film that'll work for you. What are you building?
Garth
-- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@p...> wrote:
Here's what John Blazy has posted on his website
(http://www.pbase.com/dr_dichro/electric_boat):
ATTENTION ALL WHO HAVE BEEN DYING TO KNOW WHERE I GET .030" POLYESTER
FILM: ANY PLASTICS DISTRIBUTOR LIKE GE POLYMERSHAPES (FORMERLY
CADILLAC PLASTICS), CURBELL, OR LOCAL SHEET/FILM PLASTICS SUPPLIERS IN
YOUR AREA - USE THE YELLOW PAGES. TRY SIGNAGE / GRAPHICS / LAMINATORS
TOO. OTHER FILMS LIKE LEXAN IN .020 - .030 SHOULD WORK AS WELL, EVEN
WITH THE PRE-MASKING CLING FILM LEFT ON, TO ENSURE REMOVAL. AND YES,
YOU HAVE TO SCARF PIECES FOR LONGER LENGTHS UNLESS YOU CAN GET ROLL
STOCK. IT SCARFS EASILY WITH SOLVENT CEMENT.
Now that we've brought the subject up and my memory has been slowly
rewarmed like a TV dinner from the back of the freezer, I recall that
what I bought from GE Polyshapes was 20 mil Lexan. It came in a roll,
which was very essential for doing big panels -- you can't roll the
bubbles out after it's on that big an area, so you roll them out as
you go.
I think it was about $200 for the 40' x 4' roll. Not cheap, but in
doing a big boat, I was able to hide it from my accountant (that is,
the side of my brain atempting to actually keep costs under control .
. . ).
I cut off 8' of it in 6 sections sized 16" x 4' for making perfectly
smooth glass butt joints, sandwiched between MDO pieces of the same
size and screwed down -- with the screw holes filled in later. And the
remaining 32' was just right for four ply sheets end-to-end.
The really cool thing about this film technique is that you can have
varying layers of fiberglass -- like overlapping pieces, or tape
running under cloth, or extra scraps laid in at random -- and once the
film goes over it, it all comes out glass smooth on the surface. You
can do things like running an extra tape down the middle of a side
panel, for instance, to reinforce it where it will be farthest from
any framing -- but it'll be completely undetectable, with no fairing, etc.
Good luck finding film that'll work for you. What are you building?
Garth
-- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@p...> wrote:
> And thank you Garth for bringing the subject backup. I was justgoing to
> ask if anybody remembered it,I lost the links when I mobilized in 2003mail
> and I have been thinking about it recently. Anybody have some cheep
> order links for the 30 mil stuff?posts
>
> HJ
>
> GarthAB wrote:
>
> >By the way -- credit for the glassing with 30 mil film idea goes to
> >John Blazy. And to Chuck at Duckworks for disseminating it. Here's
> >original article, which bears re-reading:
> >
> >http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/articles/glass/bottom.cfm
> >
> >Someday I hope I can make a boat look like that.
> >
> >All best,
> >Garth
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Bolger rules!!!
> >- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> >- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
> >- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> >- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> >- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
And thank you Garth for bringing the subject backup. I was just going to
ask if anybody remembered it,I lost the links when I mobilized in 2003
and I have been thinking about it recently. Anybody have some cheep mail
order links for the 30 mil stuff?
HJ
GarthAB wrote:
ask if anybody remembered it,I lost the links when I mobilized in 2003
and I have been thinking about it recently. Anybody have some cheep mail
order links for the 30 mil stuff?
HJ
GarthAB wrote:
>By the way -- credit for the glassing with 30 mil film idea goes to
>John Blazy. And to Chuck at Duckworks for disseminating it. Here's
>original article, which bears re-reading:
>
>http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/articles/glass/bottom.cfm
>
>Someday I hope I can make a boat look like that.
>
>All best,
>Garth
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
I tried the stuff from Wal-Mart. It is soft, not rigid plastic. The
wrinkles are hard to eliminate. I don't think it was 30 mil.
I did buy some rigid vinyl which does a wonderful job, but it is horribly
expensive and enough epoxy clung to it that I'm not sure I can reuse it.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
wrinkles are hard to eliminate. I don't think it was 30 mil.
I did buy some rigid vinyl which does a wonderful job, but it is horribly
expensive and enough epoxy clung to it that I'm not sure I can reuse it.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Bedard" <sctree@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 4:50 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Glassing with film
>
> Thanks Garth for the reminder it was John who got me thinking of this
> stuff.
>
> My current project is a J. Gilbert Alleycat. There is a prototype write up
> somewhere in Duckworks. A crude model and some early construction pics on
> the jgbuilders group. I got a decent start in spring of '04 then had a 14
> month hiatus (life gets in the way of boatbuilding thing), which ended day
> before yesterday. Hope this will be a continous boatbuilding stage of my
> life. Gotta try and maintain the momentum. We'll see. On that note, I got
> 6 new fillets done during my 1/2 hour lunch break today. Only 152 more to
> go..
>
> Bought my 30 mil, or maybe is 20mil? at Walmart. I think it was $2.29 a
> yard x 60" wide last winter. It's the stuff that old ladies use to make
> those see-through slip covers for all their livingroom furniture.. Tell me
> that isn't a weird hobby..
>
> Peelply- I've used it before and will probably use it on the inside
> chines. For dead straight fillets (like bulkhead to hullside joins), this
> plastic is nice to use. You can press and squeeze much harder on the
> plastic and the forming tool stays epoxy free. The stiffness of the
> plastic makes it easy to handle and speeds up the process by self forming
> the fillet radius. Tomorrow I'm thinking of wetting out the biaxial right
> on the plastic at the epoxy station and then slapping the biaxial/plastic
> over the fillet in one go...
>
> Fake peelply- tried that, the dressmakers liner dacron stuff. Too much
> epoxy oozed through the weave causing a mess and binding the dacron to the
> fillet.. Had to grind it off. I was told real peelply is tight weave and
> treated with something to aid release.
>
> Rick
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Thanks Garth for the reminder it was John who got me thinking of this stuff.
My current project is a J. Gilbert Alleycat. There is a prototype write up somewhere in Duckworks. A crude model and some early construction pics on the jgbuilders group. I got a decent start in spring of '04 then had a 14 month hiatus (life gets in the way of boatbuilding thing), which ended day before yesterday. Hope this will be a continous boatbuilding stage of my life. Gotta try and maintain the momentum. We'll see. On that note, I got 6 new fillets done during my 1/2 hour lunch break today. Only 152 more to go..
Bought my 30 mil, or maybe is 20mil? at Walmart. I think it was $2.29 a yard x 60" wide last winter. It's the stuff that old ladies use to make those see-through slip covers for all their livingroom furniture.. Tell me that isn't a weird hobby..
Peelply- I've used it before and will probably use it on the inside chines. For dead straight fillets (like bulkhead to hullside joins), this plastic is nice to use. You can press and squeeze much harder on the plastic and the forming tool stays epoxy free. The stiffness of the plastic makes it easy to handle and speeds up the process by self forming the fillet radius. Tomorrow I'm thinking of wetting out the biaxial right on the plastic at the epoxy station and then slapping the biaxial/plastic over the fillet in one go...
Fake peelply- tried that, the dressmakers liner dacron stuff. Too much epoxy oozed through the weave causing a mess and binding the dacron to the fillet.. Had to grind it off. I was told real peelply is tight weave and treated with something to aid release.
Rick
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
My current project is a J. Gilbert Alleycat. There is a prototype write up somewhere in Duckworks. A crude model and some early construction pics on the jgbuilders group. I got a decent start in spring of '04 then had a 14 month hiatus (life gets in the way of boatbuilding thing), which ended day before yesterday. Hope this will be a continous boatbuilding stage of my life. Gotta try and maintain the momentum. We'll see. On that note, I got 6 new fillets done during my 1/2 hour lunch break today. Only 152 more to go..
Bought my 30 mil, or maybe is 20mil? at Walmart. I think it was $2.29 a yard x 60" wide last winter. It's the stuff that old ladies use to make those see-through slip covers for all their livingroom furniture.. Tell me that isn't a weird hobby..
Peelply- I've used it before and will probably use it on the inside chines. For dead straight fillets (like bulkhead to hullside joins), this plastic is nice to use. You can press and squeeze much harder on the plastic and the forming tool stays epoxy free. The stiffness of the plastic makes it easy to handle and speeds up the process by self forming the fillet radius. Tomorrow I'm thinking of wetting out the biaxial right on the plastic at the epoxy station and then slapping the biaxial/plastic over the fillet in one go...
Fake peelply- tried that, the dressmakers liner dacron stuff. Too much epoxy oozed through the weave causing a mess and binding the dacron to the fillet.. Had to grind it off. I was told real peelply is tight weave and treated with something to aid release.
Rick
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "chodges31711" <chodges@a...> wrote:
FULL WIDTH PEEL PLY
2.7 oz x 66" Width
1.8 oz x 64" Wide
Poly/Dacron blend is excellent as peel ply
for composite lay-ups.
Description Part No. Price Buy
SURFACE TAPE DACRON 1" SMOOTH 09-15000 $5.35
SURFACE TAPE DACRON 2" SMOOTH 09-15100 $7.60
SURFACE TAPE DACRON 3" SMOOTH 09-15200 $12.20
SURFACE TAPE DACRON 4" SMOOTH 09-15300 $15.90
DACRON FAB 2.7OZ, 64-66" #604 09-00300 $4.20
DACRON FABRC 1.8 OZ X 64" #611 09-00100 $3.20
> Isn't peelply dacron cloth? similar to aircraft wing covering?At Aircraft Spruce and Specialty -
>
FULL WIDTH PEEL PLY
2.7 oz x 66" Width
1.8 oz x 64" Wide
Poly/Dacron blend is excellent as peel ply
for composite lay-ups.
Description Part No. Price Buy
SURFACE TAPE DACRON 1" SMOOTH 09-15000 $5.35
SURFACE TAPE DACRON 2" SMOOTH 09-15100 $7.60
SURFACE TAPE DACRON 3" SMOOTH 09-15200 $12.20
SURFACE TAPE DACRON 4" SMOOTH 09-15300 $15.90
DACRON FAB 2.7OZ, 64-66" #604 09-00300 $4.20
DACRON FABRC 1.8 OZ X 64" #611 09-00100 $3.20
Hi Jon --
I got my sheet of 20 mil film (4' wide, 40' long) from GE
Polymershapes. There are branches of this company all over the
country. I used the one closest to me:
GE Polymershapes
119 North Geddes Street
Syracuse, NY 13204
315-437-7427
They did not have 30 mil, however. I remember spending a lot of time
Googling around trying to find the right stuff and settling on what I
got, which was adequate. Might be worth e-mailing John Blazy himself
to see what his source was. I imagine the 30 mil would be stiffer and
give an even flatter surface, less waviness, as mine was apt to have
unless you really pressed down (kneeling on the roll) as you rolled it
out.
All best,
Garth
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "adventures_in_astrophotography"
<jon@k...> wrote:
I got my sheet of 20 mil film (4' wide, 40' long) from GE
Polymershapes. There are branches of this company all over the
country. I used the one closest to me:
GE Polymershapes
119 North Geddes Street
Syracuse, NY 13204
315-437-7427
They did not have 30 mil, however. I remember spending a lot of time
Googling around trying to find the right stuff and settling on what I
got, which was adequate. Might be worth e-mailing John Blazy himself
to see what his source was. I imagine the 30 mil would be stiffer and
give an even flatter surface, less waviness, as mine was apt to have
unless you really pressed down (kneeling on the roll) as you rolled it
out.
All best,
Garth
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "adventures_in_astrophotography"
<jon@k...> wrote:
> Hello Garth,
>
> > By the way -- credit for the glassing with 30 mil film idea goes to
> > John Blazy. And to Chuck at Duckworks for disseminating it. Here's
> > original article, which bears re-reading:
> >
> >http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/articles/glass/bottom.cfm
> >
> > Someday I hope I can make a boat look like that.
>
> Wow, I need to try that. Where does one get .030" polyester film?
>
> Jon Kolb
Isn't peelply dacron cloth? similar to aircraft wing covering?
At Aircraft Spruce and Specialty -
DACRON FABRC 1.8 OZ X 64" #611 09-00100 $3.20
DACRON FAB 2.7OZ, 64-66" #604 09-00300 $4.20
DACRON FABRIC 3.7 OZ X 66" 09-00500 $3.75 (uncertified)
Uncertified dacron from a cloth shop should be cheaper if the light
weights are available.
The best part about peelply is ready to paint - little or no sanding
required.
At Aircraft Spruce and Specialty -
DACRON FABRC 1.8 OZ X 64" #611 09-00100 $3.20
DACRON FAB 2.7OZ, 64-66" #604 09-00300 $4.20
DACRON FABRIC 3.7 OZ X 66" 09-00500 $3.75 (uncertified)
Uncertified dacron from a cloth shop should be cheaper if the light
weights are available.
The best part about peelply is ready to paint - little or no sanding
required.
> I hear that a good cheap substitute for Peelply is dress liningmaterial.
>
> Worth an experiment or two?
>
> Bill
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I'm surprised that nobody has come up with the use of 'Peelply' for this purpose. I've found that it works nicely and leaves a nice, finely textured surface, free of amine blush, that can be painted without further preparation.
I hear that a good cheap substitute for Peelply is dress lining material.
Worth an experiment or two?
Bill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I hear that a good cheap substitute for Peelply is dress lining material.
Worth an experiment or two?
Bill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hello Garth,
Jon Kolb
> By the way -- credit for the glassing with 30 mil film idea goes toWow, I need to try that. Where does one get .030" polyester film?
> John Blazy. And to Chuck at Duckworks for disseminating it. Here's
> original article, which bears re-reading:
>
>http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/articles/glass/bottom.cfm
>
> Someday I hope I can make a boat look like that.
Jon Kolb
By the way -- credit for the glassing with 30 mil film idea goes to
John Blazy. And to Chuck at Duckworks for disseminating it. Here's
original article, which bears re-reading:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/articles/glass/bottom.cfm
Someday I hope I can make a boat look like that.
All best,
Garth
John Blazy. And to Chuck at Duckworks for disseminating it. Here's
original article, which bears re-reading:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/articles/glass/bottom.cfm
Someday I hope I can make a boat look like that.
All best,
Garth