Re: Centreboard weighting -- TILT
If you drive ring nails into the inside of the hole at an angle from
both sides of the centerboard, it will hold the lead if it shrinks
away from the sides of the hole. I poured a 6" diameter disk for my
centerboard and just got a little scorching around the edges of the
hole as others have mentioned. Also, you need to "overpour" the lead
so that the surface is a little above the centerboard. Surface
tension keeps it from running all over the place. The lead shrinks
quite a bit as it cools. Without the overpour, you will end up with a
big hole in the middle. It is easy enough to plane off the excess
once it cools.
both sides of the centerboard, it will hold the lead if it shrinks
away from the sides of the hole. I poured a 6" diameter disk for my
centerboard and just got a little scorching around the edges of the
hole as others have mentioned. Also, you need to "overpour" the lead
so that the surface is a little above the centerboard. Surface
tension keeps it from running all over the place. The lead shrinks
quite a bit as it cools. Without the overpour, you will end up with a
big hole in the middle. It is easy enough to plane off the excess
once it cools.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@e...> wrote:
> Because it will be much more difficult to fasten the disc securely
than it
> will be to pour the lead into a keyed hole.
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@N...
>http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wayne" <wtorry@v...>
> >
> > If a person is concerned about scorching a nice centerboard,
what's
> > wrong with making a dummy mold out of plywood scraps, pouring the
lead
> > and putting the lead disc in the real centerboard? Or buying lead
> > sheets and avoiding the whole lead melting hassle all together?
Eh?
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "David" <arbordg@y...> wrote:
disc specified on the plans. It's pretty easy to caluculate the weight
of a disc. Weigh out that much lead in the small bits form and figure
out how large the opening needs to be. The epoxy and
shot/shavings/chopped tire weights will need more room. Not hard, just
needs a bit of thought.
Wayne
In the Swamp.
> Howdy,Making sure that you have at least an equal weight of lead as the solid
>
> The other scheme to avoid hot lead is to use a lead & epoxy slurry.
> Start with your daggerboard/leeboard/etc. bored out to receive the
> lead. Tape the back side of the hole so it's sealed. Then drive nails,
> screws, pins, dowels, etc. into the inner face of the circle. Then mix
> up a sufficient batch (I almost typed "botch" - that's only if I do
> it) of epoxy. Then mix lead shot/shavings/chopped tire weights into
> the epoxy. Pour the lead-filled epoxy into the hole. Let cure. Add
> glass & resin on faces. Sail.
>
> Cheers,
> David Graybeal
> Portland, OR.
disc specified on the plans. It's pretty easy to caluculate the weight
of a disc. Weigh out that much lead in the small bits form and figure
out how large the opening needs to be. The epoxy and
shot/shavings/chopped tire weights will need more room. Not hard, just
needs a bit of thought.
Wayne
In the Swamp.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@e...> wrote:
Howdy,
The other scheme to avoid hot lead is to use a lead & epoxy slurry.
Start with your daggerboard/leeboard/etc. bored out to receive the
lead. Tape the back side of the hole so it's sealed. Then drive nails,
screws, pins, dowels, etc. into the inner face of the circle. Then mix
up a sufficient batch (I almost typed "botch" - that's only if I do
it) of epoxy. Then mix lead shot/shavings/chopped tire weights into
the epoxy. Pour the lead-filled epoxy into the hole. Let cure. Add
glass & resin on faces. Sail.
Cheers,
David Graybeal
Portland, OR.
"Red meat is NOT bad for you. Now, blue-green meat, that I'd stay away
from" - Tommy Smothers
> Because it will be much more difficult to fasten the disc securelythan it
> will be to pour the lead into a keyed hole.***************
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@N...
>http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
>
Howdy,
The other scheme to avoid hot lead is to use a lead & epoxy slurry.
Start with your daggerboard/leeboard/etc. bored out to receive the
lead. Tape the back side of the hole so it's sealed. Then drive nails,
screws, pins, dowels, etc. into the inner face of the circle. Then mix
up a sufficient batch (I almost typed "botch" - that's only if I do
it) of epoxy. Then mix lead shot/shavings/chopped tire weights into
the epoxy. Pour the lead-filled epoxy into the hole. Let cure. Add
glass & resin on faces. Sail.
Cheers,
David Graybeal
Portland, OR.
"Red meat is NOT bad for you. Now, blue-green meat, that I'd stay away
from" - Tommy Smothers
Because it will be much more difficult to fasten the disc securely than it
will be to pour the lead into a keyed hole.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
will be to pour the lead into a keyed hole.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne" <wtorry@...>
>
> If a person is concerned about scorching a nice centerboard, what's
> wrong with making a dummy mold out of plywood scraps, pouring the lead
> and putting the lead disc in the real centerboard? Or buying lead
> sheets and avoiding the whole lead melting hassle all together? Eh?
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@e...> wrote:
wrong with making a dummy mold out of plywood scraps, pouring the lead
and putting the lead disc in the real centerboard? Or buying lead
sheets and avoiding the whole lead melting hassle all together? Eh?
Wayne
In the Swamp.
> Perhaps if you looked for waterglass or sodium silicate you'd havebetter
> luck.If a person is concerned about scorching a nice centerboard, what's
>
> Roger
wrong with making a dummy mold out of plywood scraps, pouring the lead
and putting the lead disc in the real centerboard? Or buying lead
sheets and avoiding the whole lead melting hassle all together? Eh?
Wayne
In the Swamp.
> Perhaps if you looked for waterglass or sodium silicate you'd have betterSearch Froogle and there are lots of online sources.
> luck.
> Roger
http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=sodium%20silicate
I am with the others, just pour the lead, a little bit of
charred wood is all you will get, and that is not a
problem. Don't worry.
From "GuruNet":
i·sin·glass (i'z?n-glas', i'zing-) n.
1. A transparent, almost pure gelatin prepared from the air
bladder of the sturgeon and certain other fishes and used
as an adhesive and a clarifying agent.
2. Mica in thin, transparent sheets.
Perhaps if you looked for waterglass or sodium silicate you'd have better
luck.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
i·sin·glass (i'z?n-glas', i'zing-) n.
1. A transparent, almost pure gelatin prepared from the air
bladder of the sturgeon and certain other fishes and used
as an adhesive and a clarifying agent.
2. Mica in thin, transparent sheets.
Perhaps if you looked for waterglass or sodium silicate you'd have better
luck.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
> My problem is that I need to protect the wood from the heat of the
> lead. The suggestion is that ISINGLASS is painted on to the exposed
> surfaces. Isinglass is unobtainable here in the UK these days,
> although I remember it being used for the preservation of eggs in the
> 30's!
>
> Does any member of the Forum have any suggestion as to an available
> substitute for the Isinglass?