Re: [bolger] Wiley Window
Paul
Do you have any detail photo's of the construction of your Wiley ports
that you could forward to me off line.
Harry W. James
welshman at ptialaska.net
Paul Lefebvre wrote:
Do you have any detail photo's of the construction of your Wiley ports
that you could forward to me off line.
Harry W. James
welshman at ptialaska.net
Paul Lefebvre wrote:
>My Wiley ports are done but the windows are not, so I'm enjoying the
>discussion. I like this idea of incorporating the wedges into the window,
>and making the wedge by bending the window material over is a clever twist
>on that concept. I'll add one other thing that just came to mind along the
>same lines - seems you could leave a little extra strip of material along
>the top and perhaps bottom edge that can also be bent inward to provide
>stiffening, thereby eliminating the need for any kind of frame...
>
>Paul L.
>
>
>
On 8/31/05, Roger Derby <derbyrm@...> wrote
to give permission tohttp://print.google.com/
all the rare out of print Bolger books, etc.., could
be read online. Already, many great boating books
are available there.
> Copyright may also be part of it. Once an author signs a contract with aI can dream, but if International Marine Publishing was
> publisher, things can get very complicated.
> Roger
to give permission tohttp://print.google.com/
all the rare out of print Bolger books, etc.., could
be read online. Already, many great boating books
are available there.
I use ez sniper, then I don't have to stay up late.
HJ
Susan Davis wrote:
HJ
Susan Davis wrote:
>>Anyway, my ebaying technique will have been improved by
>>the experience (beaten by the bell).
>>
>>
>
>I've been sniped enough times that I now do it out of habit as a
>defensive move for auctions that I care about winning. Setting the
>maximum bid to a penny or two, or fifty cents, higher than the logical
>increment is another cheap little trick that sometimes works.
>
>
>
Thought that might be you, thanks for the nice piece of writing on
working on the boat. I know the feeling but couldn't express it half as
well.
HJ
Susan Davis wrote:
working on the boat. I know the feeling but couldn't express it half as
well.
HJ
Susan Davis wrote:
>>Somebody got a deal, hope they are on the group.
>>
>>
>
>Yep, I sure am.
>
>Now if PCB's next book, the one with the Insolent 60 in it, would only
>come out....
>
> -- Sue --
>(and _Fiji_, _Yonder_, _Wandervogel_, _Le Cabotin_, _WDJ_, Revised
>Micro Navigator, Longitudinal Folding Punt, et cetera)
>
>
>
> Anyway, my ebaying technique will have been improved byI've been sniped enough times that I now do it out of habit as a
> the experience (beaten by the bell).
defensive move for auctions that I care about winning. Setting the
maximum bid to a penny or two, or fifty cents, higher than the logical
increment is another cheap little trick that sometimes works.
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
> Somebody got a deal, hope they are on the group.Yep, I sure am.
Now if PCB's next book, the one with the Insolent 60 in it, would only
come out....
-- Sue --
(and _Fiji_, _Yonder_, _Wandervogel_, _Le Cabotin_, _WDJ_, Revised
Micro Navigator, Longitudinal Folding Punt, et cetera)
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
Who says a committee can't come up with good ideas, nice thought.
HJ
Paul Lefebvre wrote:
HJ
Paul Lefebvre wrote:
>My Wiley ports are done but the windows are not, so I'm enjoying the[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>discussion. I like this idea of incorporating the wedges into the window,
>and making the wedge by bending the window material over is a clever twist
>on that concept. I'll add one other thing that just came to mind along the
>same lines - seems you could leave a little extra strip of material along
>the top and perhaps bottom edge that can also be bent inward to provide
>stiffening, thereby eliminating the need for any kind of frame...
>
>Paul L.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
>Roger Derby
>Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2005 11:01 AM
>To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [bolger] Wiley Window
>
>
>If you use Lexan (polycarbonate), you can bend it just like sheet metal. I
>took a 1/16" piece and put ninety degree bends in over a hardwood block with
>a hammer. One can also use a sheet metal break.
>
>Bending acrylic requires heating. One rig I've seen suspends a nichrome
>wire near the surface and heats it for a while. When the plastic is
>softened, just grab it and bend. If you bend and pull, the plastic gets
>thinner. If you bend and push, it gets thicker. There are also $trip
>heater$ available if you are doing it for a living.
>
>My personal rig still has some kinks. The nichrome expands dramatically as
>it gets hot and one has to have a tensioning device to take up the slack.
>
>Roger
>derbyrm@...
>http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Rick Bedard" <sctree@...>
>To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2005 1:20 AM
>Subject: Re: [bolger] Wiley Window
>
>
>
>
>>Probably would work, IF you can make a sharp bend, or else you'd need a
>>bigger frame to have the bearing surface to keep the thing in place. A
>>bigger frame can quickly go from elegant to obtrusive.
>>
>>Couldn't hurt to mock one up.
>>
>>Rick
>>
>>Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>>Plexiglass bends nicely when heated, seems you could make one piece
>>windows with the right cut and then bending the ends.
>>
>>HJ
>>
>>Rick Bedard wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>A friend has two homemade Wiley Windows, each with a one piece acrylic
>>>pane/wedges, and yes he removes and flips the entire assembly to go from
>>>open to closed. Works fine,
>>>
>>>
>>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Bolger rules!!!
>>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
>>(978) 282-1349
>>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
>(978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
I'd guess most of Phil's works predate the digital age. Scanning in the
artwork, correcting the text recognition version, ... Besides, he may have
had second thoughts about some of his writings.
Copyright may also be part of it. Once an author signs a contract with a
publisher, things can get very complicated.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
artwork, correcting the text recognition version, ... Besides, he may have
had second thoughts about some of his writings.
Copyright may also be part of it. Once an author signs a contract with a
publisher, things can get very complicated.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: "graeme19121984" <graeme19121984@...>
> Are there copyright reasons why PCB&F couldn't publish the books and
> other works on, for example, disk? Should be easy. Should be an
> earner. No risk printing and holding a large inventory (not that I
> would think there would be much risk anyway).
>
> Graeme
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "graeme19121984" <graeme19121984@y...>
> wrote:
>> I rose at 4 in the morning here for the close of auction. >
>> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@p...> wrote:
>> > Somebody mentioned a copy of BolgerBoats (Folding Schooner and
> Small
>> > Boats together) up for auction on ebay a while back so I put it on
>> watch
>> > out of curiosity.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Are there copyright reasons why PCB&F couldn't publish the books and
other works on, for example, disk? Should be easy. Should be an
earner. No risk printing and holding a large inventory (not that I
would think there would be much risk anyway).
Graeme
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "graeme19121984" <graeme19121984@y...>
wrote:
other works on, for example, disk? Should be easy. Should be an
earner. No risk printing and holding a large inventory (not that I
would think there would be much risk anyway).
Graeme
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "graeme19121984" <graeme19121984@y...>
wrote:
> I rose at 4 in the morning here for the close of auction. >Small
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@p...> wrote:
> > Somebody mentioned a copy of BolgerBoats (Folding Schooner and
> > Boats together) up for auction on ebay a while back so I put it on
> watch
> > out of curiosity.
I rose at 4 in the morning here for the close of auction. Sadly, I
missed out. Anyway, my ebaying technique will have been improved by
the experience (beaten by the bell). There were a few bidding from
this group. Congratulations to a group member, from New York State
IIRC.
The closing price, with shipping costs added, was nearly
Australian$100. A tidy sum for a used paperback book from only a
couple of decades ago, (but years of pleasurable enjoyment). As I
managed to buy FS a while ago my interest (Otter) has increased in a
copy of Small Boats I've seen for about Aus$30 less.
I think it's all a bit crazy though, as not long ago I bought BWAOM
new for considerably less than used, and I'd wager good money that in
the not too distant future there will be new editions of all the
Master's works at regular prices.
Graeme
missed out. Anyway, my ebaying technique will have been improved by
the experience (beaten by the bell). There were a few bidding from
this group. Congratulations to a group member, from New York State
IIRC.
The closing price, with shipping costs added, was nearly
Australian$100. A tidy sum for a used paperback book from only a
couple of decades ago, (but years of pleasurable enjoyment). As I
managed to buy FS a while ago my interest (Otter) has increased in a
copy of Small Boats I've seen for about Aus$30 less.
I think it's all a bit crazy though, as not long ago I bought BWAOM
new for considerably less than used, and I'd wager good money that in
the not too distant future there will be new editions of all the
Master's works at regular prices.
Graeme
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@p...> wrote:
> Somebody mentioned a copy of BolgerBoats (Folding Schooner and Small
> Boats together) up for auction on ebay a while back so I put it on
watch
> out of curiosity. It went for $60 so I thought I would look on line
to
> see what a copy is going for these days. Bookfinder the most
complete
> source shows $165 as the cheapest one with a couple more at $175.
Wow!!
>
> Somebody got a deal, hope they are on the group.
>
> HJ
Nobody's mentioned insect screens yet. My guess is that quite often
you'd want maximum ventilation when insects are around and would
therefore want the "glass" removed i.e. the screen should probably be
a separate unit.
One way to do it might be to fit a (trapezoidal?) screen to the inside
of the frame, with another smaller one, or perhaps just a scrap of
plywood, sitting on top of the frame.
Howard
you'd want maximum ventilation when insects are around and would
therefore want the "glass" removed i.e. the screen should probably be
a separate unit.
One way to do it might be to fit a (trapezoidal?) screen to the inside
of the frame, with another smaller one, or perhaps just a scrap of
plywood, sitting on top of the frame.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Mark Balogh <mark@b...> wrote:
> Maybe this has been mentioned, if so sorry. How about the window
attached
> to one side of the wedges and a framed screen on the other side so
when you
> flip it over you have insect protection?
that's a real slick solution, and no wedges to lose or delicate things like
screens to have to store someplace!
Now I'm going to run home and see if the Wiley 'magazine rack' I already
epoxied into my Micro is low enough from overhead obstructions to get such a
contraption in and out over the top - if so then I know what I'm doing
tonight down in the shop!
Paul
-----Original Message-----
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
Mark Balogh
Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2005 11:22 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Wiley Window
Maybe this has been mentioned, if so sorry. How about the window attached
to one side of the wedges and a framed screen on the other side so when you
flip it over you have insect protection?
Mark
screens to have to store someplace!
Now I'm going to run home and see if the Wiley 'magazine rack' I already
epoxied into my Micro is low enough from overhead obstructions to get such a
contraption in and out over the top - if so then I know what I'm doing
tonight down in the shop!
Paul
-----Original Message-----
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
Mark Balogh
Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2005 11:22 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Wiley Window
Maybe this has been mentioned, if so sorry. How about the window attached
to one side of the wedges and a framed screen on the other side so when you
flip it over you have insect protection?
Mark
Hah, I like that idea. The unit will stay in place all the time. It is
fully functional both ways! If it has been mentioned, it "sailed" right
by me. Yes, that is a pun! sorry.
On Wed, 31 Aug 2005 11:22:22 -0400 Mark Balogh
<mark@...> writes:
Maybe this has been mentioned, if so sorry. How about the window attached
to one side of the wedges and a framed screen on the other side so when
you
flip it over you have insect protection?
Mark
--
BALOGH SAIL DESIGNS (434) 735-8262
SAIL RIGS AND OUTRIGGERS
FOR KAYAKS AND CANOES
FOR RECREATION OR EXPEDITION
http://baloghsaildesigns.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
fully functional both ways! If it has been mentioned, it "sailed" right
by me. Yes, that is a pun! sorry.
On Wed, 31 Aug 2005 11:22:22 -0400 Mark Balogh
<mark@...> writes:
Maybe this has been mentioned, if so sorry. How about the window attached
to one side of the wedges and a framed screen on the other side so when
you
flip it over you have insect protection?
Mark
--
BALOGH SAIL DESIGNS (434) 735-8262
SAIL RIGS AND OUTRIGGERS
FOR KAYAKS AND CANOES
FOR RECREATION OR EXPEDITION
http://baloghsaildesigns.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Maybe this has been mentioned, if so sorry. How about the window attached
to one side of the wedges and a framed screen on the other side so when you
flip it over you have insect protection?
Mark
--
BALOGH SAIL DESIGNS (434) 735-8262
SAIL RIGS AND OUTRIGGERS
FOR KAYAKS AND CANOES
FOR RECREATION OR EXPEDITION
http://baloghsaildesigns.com
From: "Paul Lefebvre" <paul@...>
Reply-To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 11:11:29 -0400
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [bolger] Wiley Window
My Wiley ports are done but the windows are not, so I'm enjoying the
discussion. I like this idea of incorporating the wedges into the window,
and making the wedge by bending the window material over is a clever twist
on that concept. I'll add one other thing that just came to mind along the
same lines - seems you could leave a little extra strip of material along
the top and perhaps bottom edge that can also be bent inward to provide
stiffening, thereby eliminating the need for any kind of frame...
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
to one side of the wedges and a framed screen on the other side so when you
flip it over you have insect protection?
Mark
--
BALOGH SAIL DESIGNS (434) 735-8262
SAIL RIGS AND OUTRIGGERS
FOR KAYAKS AND CANOES
FOR RECREATION OR EXPEDITION
http://baloghsaildesigns.com
From: "Paul Lefebvre" <paul@...>
Reply-To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 11:11:29 -0400
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [bolger] Wiley Window
My Wiley ports are done but the windows are not, so I'm enjoying the
discussion. I like this idea of incorporating the wedges into the window,
and making the wedge by bending the window material over is a clever twist
on that concept. I'll add one other thing that just came to mind along the
same lines - seems you could leave a little extra strip of material along
the top and perhaps bottom edge that can also be bent inward to provide
stiffening, thereby eliminating the need for any kind of frame...
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
My Wiley ports are done but the windows are not, so I'm enjoying the
discussion. I like this idea of incorporating the wedges into the window,
and making the wedge by bending the window material over is a clever twist
on that concept. I'll add one other thing that just came to mind along the
same lines - seems you could leave a little extra strip of material along
the top and perhaps bottom edge that can also be bent inward to provide
stiffening, thereby eliminating the need for any kind of frame...
Paul L.
-----Original Message-----
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
Roger Derby
Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2005 11:01 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Wiley Window
If you use Lexan (polycarbonate), you can bend it just like sheet metal. I
took a 1/16" piece and put ninety degree bends in over a hardwood block with
a hammer. One can also use a sheet metal break.
Bending acrylic requires heating. One rig I've seen suspends a nichrome
wire near the surface and heats it for a while. When the plastic is
softened, just grab it and bend. If you bend and pull, the plastic gets
thinner. If you bend and push, it gets thicker. There are also $trip
heater$ available if you are doing it for a living.
My personal rig still has some kinks. The nichrome expands dramatically as
it gets hot and one has to have a tensioning device to take up the slack.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
discussion. I like this idea of incorporating the wedges into the window,
and making the wedge by bending the window material over is a clever twist
on that concept. I'll add one other thing that just came to mind along the
same lines - seems you could leave a little extra strip of material along
the top and perhaps bottom edge that can also be bent inward to provide
stiffening, thereby eliminating the need for any kind of frame...
Paul L.
-----Original Message-----
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
Roger Derby
Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2005 11:01 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Wiley Window
If you use Lexan (polycarbonate), you can bend it just like sheet metal. I
took a 1/16" piece and put ninety degree bends in over a hardwood block with
a hammer. One can also use a sheet metal break.
Bending acrylic requires heating. One rig I've seen suspends a nichrome
wire near the surface and heats it for a while. When the plastic is
softened, just grab it and bend. If you bend and pull, the plastic gets
thinner. If you bend and push, it gets thicker. There are also $trip
heater$ available if you are doing it for a living.
My personal rig still has some kinks. The nichrome expands dramatically as
it gets hot and one has to have a tensioning device to take up the slack.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Bedard" <sctree@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2005 1:20 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Wiley Window
> Probably would work, IF you can make a sharp bend, or else you'd need a
> bigger frame to have the bearing surface to keep the thing in place. A
> bigger frame can quickly go from elegant to obtrusive.
>
> Couldn't hurt to mock one up.
>
> Rick
>
> Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
> Plexiglass bends nicely when heated, seems you could make one piece
> windows with the right cut and then bending the ends.
>
> HJ
>
> Rick Bedard wrote:
>
>>A friend has two homemade Wiley Windows, each with a one piece acrylic
>>pane/wedges, and yes he removes and flips the entire assembly to go from
>>open to closed. Works fine,
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups Links
If you use Lexan (polycarbonate), you can bend it just like sheet metal. I
took a 1/16" piece and put ninety degree bends in over a hardwood block with
a hammer. One can also use a sheet metal break.
Bending acrylic requires heating. One rig I've seen suspends a nichrome
wire near the surface and heats it for a while. When the plastic is
softened, just grab it and bend. If you bend and pull, the plastic gets
thinner. If you bend and push, it gets thicker. There are also $trip
heater$ available if you are doing it for a living.
My personal rig still has some kinks. The nichrome expands dramatically as
it gets hot and one has to have a tensioning device to take up the slack.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
took a 1/16" piece and put ninety degree bends in over a hardwood block with
a hammer. One can also use a sheet metal break.
Bending acrylic requires heating. One rig I've seen suspends a nichrome
wire near the surface and heats it for a while. When the plastic is
softened, just grab it and bend. If you bend and pull, the plastic gets
thinner. If you bend and push, it gets thicker. There are also $trip
heater$ available if you are doing it for a living.
My personal rig still has some kinks. The nichrome expands dramatically as
it gets hot and one has to have a tensioning device to take up the slack.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Bedard" <sctree@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2005 1:20 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Wiley Window
> Probably would work, IF you can make a sharp bend, or else you'd need a
> bigger frame to have the bearing surface to keep the thing in place. A
> bigger frame can quickly go from elegant to obtrusive.
>
> Couldn't hurt to mock one up.
>
> Rick
>
> Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
> Plexiglass bends nicely when heated, seems you could make one piece
> windows with the right cut and then bending the ends.
>
> HJ
>
> Rick Bedard wrote:
>
>>A friend has two homemade Wiley Windows, each with a one piece acrylic
>>pane/wedges, and yes he removes and flips the entire assembly to go from
>>open to closed. Works fine,
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Probably would work, IF you can make a sharp bend, or else you'd need a bigger frame to have the bearing surface to keep the thing in place. A bigger frame can quickly go from elegant to obtrusive.
Couldn't hurt to mock one up.
Rick
Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
Plexiglass bends nicely when heated, seems you could make one piece
windows with the right cut and then bending the ends.
HJ
Rick Bedard wrote:
Couldn't hurt to mock one up.
Rick
Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
Plexiglass bends nicely when heated, seems you could make one piece
windows with the right cut and then bending the ends.
HJ
Rick Bedard wrote:
>A friend has two homemade Wiley Windows, each with a one piece acrylic pane/wedges, and yes he removes and flips the entire assembly to go from open to closed. Works fine,[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Plexiglass bends nicely when heated, seems you could make one piece
windows with the right cut and then bending the ends.
HJ
Rick Bedard wrote:
windows with the right cut and then bending the ends.
HJ
Rick Bedard wrote:
>A friend has two homemade Wiley Windows, each with a one piece acrylic pane/wedges, and yes he removes and flips the entire assembly to go from open to closed. Works fine, although the wedges have no kerf and everything depend soley on a gravity fit. Be easy enough to fit some kind of keeper pin...[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>I've sailed on several other boats with Wiley Windows and all but one worked wonderfully. On the one boat the problem was the frames protruded too far in the very small cabin, real headbangers. On a big Atkins ketch I've sailed on the owner made the panes out of heavy laminated glass, real heavy, like 1/2" thick maybe, and never even had wedges. But there are screws, long screws that span the top of the frame preventing the panes from lifting unless the screws are first backed out. When tacking the windward side windows flopped open allowing air, while the leeward windows flopped closed and were heavy enough to keep any spray taken over the rail out of the cabin... At rest all windows are open unless held closed with whatever he can find to jam in as a wedge.
>
>I've seen both bronze and fiberglass frames, plus homemade wood frames. The best have a groove or slot for the wedge so they won't "twist" and pop out. Tethers on the wedges are a good idea in rough going. Best wedges are hardwood, the kerf makes a tight wedge.
>
>I wonder about the trapizoid shape, having never seen one in action. Seems the pane might accidently fall out (or I guess "in") at the wrong moment if it were able to bounce up a bit? It really doesn't take that much clearance above the frame to pull a standard type pane out of a standard frame...
>
>Be simple to mock up a lifesize frame of scrap to test for clearance, fit and security..
>
>I feel a Wiley Window on a forward facing bulkhead should have an exterior sprayshield.
>
>Rick
>
>Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...> wrote:
>
>On
>
>
>>his windows the wedges
>>were attached to the Lexan so they stayed in
>>position.
>>
>>
>
>If the wedges are attached to the glass, is the glass
>removed and reinserted wedge-out to go from closed to open?
>
>
>
>____________________________________________________
>Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
>http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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>
>
>
>---------------------------------
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>
>
> Visit your group "bolger" on the web.
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>
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>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
A friend has two homemade Wiley Windows, each with a one piece acrylic pane/wedges, and yes he removes and flips the entire assembly to go from open to closed. Works fine, although the wedges have no kerf and everything depend soley on a gravity fit. Be easy enough to fit some kind of keeper pin...
I've sailed on several other boats with Wiley Windows and all but one worked wonderfully. On the one boat the problem was the frames protruded too far in the very small cabin, real headbangers. On a big Atkins ketch I've sailed on the owner made the panes out of heavy laminated glass, real heavy, like 1/2" thick maybe, and never even had wedges. But there are screws, long screws that span the top of the frame preventing the panes from lifting unless the screws are first backed out. When tacking the windward side windows flopped open allowing air, while the leeward windows flopped closed and were heavy enough to keep any spray taken over the rail out of the cabin... At rest all windows are open unless held closed with whatever he can find to jam in as a wedge.
I've seen both bronze and fiberglass frames, plus homemade wood frames. The best have a groove or slot for the wedge so they won't "twist" and pop out. Tethers on the wedges are a good idea in rough going. Best wedges are hardwood, the kerf makes a tight wedge.
I wonder about the trapizoid shape, having never seen one in action. Seems the pane might accidently fall out (or I guess "in") at the wrong moment if it were able to bounce up a bit? It really doesn't take that much clearance above the frame to pull a standard type pane out of a standard frame...
Be simple to mock up a lifesize frame of scrap to test for clearance, fit and security..
I feel a Wiley Window on a forward facing bulkhead should have an exterior sprayshield.
Rick
Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...> wrote:
On
removed and reinserted wedge-out to go from closed to open?
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
---------------------------------
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
Visit your group "bolger" on the web.
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
---------------------------------
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I've sailed on several other boats with Wiley Windows and all but one worked wonderfully. On the one boat the problem was the frames protruded too far in the very small cabin, real headbangers. On a big Atkins ketch I've sailed on the owner made the panes out of heavy laminated glass, real heavy, like 1/2" thick maybe, and never even had wedges. But there are screws, long screws that span the top of the frame preventing the panes from lifting unless the screws are first backed out. When tacking the windward side windows flopped open allowing air, while the leeward windows flopped closed and were heavy enough to keep any spray taken over the rail out of the cabin... At rest all windows are open unless held closed with whatever he can find to jam in as a wedge.
I've seen both bronze and fiberglass frames, plus homemade wood frames. The best have a groove or slot for the wedge so they won't "twist" and pop out. Tethers on the wedges are a good idea in rough going. Best wedges are hardwood, the kerf makes a tight wedge.
I wonder about the trapizoid shape, having never seen one in action. Seems the pane might accidently fall out (or I guess "in") at the wrong moment if it were able to bounce up a bit? It really doesn't take that much clearance above the frame to pull a standard type pane out of a standard frame...
Be simple to mock up a lifesize frame of scrap to test for clearance, fit and security..
I feel a Wiley Window on a forward facing bulkhead should have an exterior sprayshield.
Rick
Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...> wrote:
On
> his windows the wedgesIf the wedges are attached to the glass, is the glass
> were attached to the Lexan so they stayed in
> position.
removed and reinserted wedge-out to go from closed to open?
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
---------------------------------
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Visit your group "bolger" on the web.
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
---------------------------------
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Yes, they were lifted out of the top of the frame and reversed. Not a
problem but kept the wedges secure as you don't want them working loose in
severe conditions. His idea was that with the stiffener along the top and
the wedges attached the window could not easily buckle inward from wave
pressure and dislodge the wedges. When revered or open the stiffener acted
as a spray rail for water hitting the glass and trying to run over the top
edge. I can also hold a little curve in the Lexan if the cabin side is
curved.
Mark
--
BALOGH SAIL DESIGNS (434) 735-8262
SAIL RIGS AND OUTRIGGERS
FOR KAYAKS AND CANOES
FOR RECREATION OR EXPEDITION
http://baloghsaildesigns.com
From: Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...>
Reply-To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 09:41:42 -0700 (PDT)
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Wiley Window
On
removed and reinserted wedge-out to go from closed to open?
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
problem but kept the wedges secure as you don't want them working loose in
severe conditions. His idea was that with the stiffener along the top and
the wedges attached the window could not easily buckle inward from wave
pressure and dislodge the wedges. When revered or open the stiffener acted
as a spray rail for water hitting the glass and trying to run over the top
edge. I can also hold a little curve in the Lexan if the cabin side is
curved.
Mark
--
BALOGH SAIL DESIGNS (434) 735-8262
SAIL RIGS AND OUTRIGGERS
FOR KAYAKS AND CANOES
FOR RECREATION OR EXPEDITION
http://baloghsaildesigns.com
From: Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...>
Reply-To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 09:41:42 -0700 (PDT)
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Wiley Window
On
> his windows the wedgesIf the wedges are attached to the glass, is the glass
> were attached to the Lexan so they stayed in
> position.
removed and reinserted wedge-out to go from closed to open?
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
On
removed and reinserted wedge-out to go from closed to open?
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
> his windows the wedgesIf the wedges are attached to the glass, is the glass
> were attached to the Lexan so they stayed in
> position.
removed and reinserted wedge-out to go from closed to open?
____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
A friend of mine built a tri on which he circumnavigated and it had fairly
large Wiley Windows in the cabin. I asked him about security and he said
never a problem even in the worst conditions. On his windows the wedges
were attached to the Lexan so they stayed in position. Also since he had a
fairly long span on the top edge he had a wood stiffeners attached to the
Lexan on that edge as well on the same side as the wedges. The bottom of
the frame supported the bottom edge well enough but the stiffener helped
hold the top edge firmly against the cabin side. A stiffener on the bottom
edge might be a good idea depending on the fit of the frame and if the
window was fairly wide or the plastic thin and flexible.
Mark
--
BALOGH SAIL DESIGNS (434) 735-8262
SAIL RIGS AND OUTRIGGERS
FOR KAYAKS AND CANOES
FOR RECREATION OR EXPEDITION
http://baloghsaildesigns.com
From: "pvanderwaart" <pvanderwaart@...>
Reply-To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 16:22:45 -0000
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Wiley Window
is a naive question: Would making the frame trapeziodal make it harder
to fit the wedges? Or harder to keep the wedges from falling out of
position?
Peter
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
large Wiley Windows in the cabin. I asked him about security and he said
never a problem even in the worst conditions. On his windows the wedges
were attached to the Lexan so they stayed in position. Also since he had a
fairly long span on the top edge he had a wood stiffeners attached to the
Lexan on that edge as well on the same side as the wedges. The bottom of
the frame supported the bottom edge well enough but the stiffener helped
hold the top edge firmly against the cabin side. A stiffener on the bottom
edge might be a good idea depending on the fit of the frame and if the
window was fairly wide or the plastic thin and flexible.
Mark
--
BALOGH SAIL DESIGNS (434) 735-8262
SAIL RIGS AND OUTRIGGERS
FOR KAYAKS AND CANOES
FOR RECREATION OR EXPEDITION
http://baloghsaildesigns.com
From: "pvanderwaart" <pvanderwaart@...>
Reply-To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2005 16:22:45 -0000
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Wiley Window
> > If you made them so they so that the sides wereI have a little trouble envisioning the usability of the WW, so this
> > closer to each other at the bottom than at the the top and the glass
> > trapezoidal in shape to fit, wouldn't this allow the glass to be
> > removed by lifting it only part-way up the frame, rather than all the
> > way up?
is a naive question: Would making the frame trapeziodal make it harder
to fit the wedges? Or harder to keep the wedges from falling out of
position?
Peter
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > If you made them so they so that the sides wereI have a little trouble envisioning the usability of the WW, so this
> > closer to each other at the bottom than at the the top and the glass
> > trapezoidal in shape to fit, wouldn't this allow the glass to be
> > removed by lifting it only part-way up the frame, rather than all the
> > way up?
is a naive question: Would making the frame trapeziodal make it harder
to fit the wedges? Or harder to keep the wedges from falling out of
position?
Peter
> > trapazoid inovation could be used lots of places.I suspect that much of the appeal of the "Wiley window" to
Phil Bolger, (and others) is simplicity and safety. I would
worry that a trapezoidal shape might be just a little
too easy to fall out at the wrong time. The rectangle
is a bit more secure in the hole, and would withstand
the inopportune splash from the rogue wake (or wave)
intact, better than a trapezoid.
> >Who was Wiley, anyhow?According to the 1983 Nautical Quarterly biography
of Phil Bolger, (written by Joseph Gribbens):
Ralph Wiley was the designer of the 'first real boat' owned
by Phil Bolger and built by Phil's brother Bill in the early 1940's.
Probably Ralph Wiley is the same man who Phil Bolger credits for
designing that window.
If the kerf is done right it also allows the window to open half way.
RonB.
RonB.
On 30-Aug-05, at 6:32 AM, Sam Glasscock wrote:
> I would, for one. Are the wedges made from plywood?
> Is the kerf down the middle to give the wedge some
> "spring?" These are a neat design, and with the
> trapazoid inovation could be used lots of places. Who
> was Wiley, anyhow?
I would, for one. Are the wedges made from plywood?
Is the kerf down the middle to give the wedge some
"spring?" These are a neat design, and with the
trapazoid inovation could be used lots of places. Who
was Wiley, anyhow?
--- Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
Yahoo! Mail
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour:
http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html
Is the kerf down the middle to give the wedge some
"spring?" These are a neat design, and with the
trapazoid inovation could be used lots of places. Who
was Wiley, anyhow?
--- Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
> I just found a file I saved down a long while back__________________________________
> that I got from the
> multi hull group. It shows a home made fiberglass
> wiley port, if anybody
> wants it.
>
> HJ
>
> GarthAB wrote:
>
> >Howard --
> >
> >That's an excellent idea and it seems it ought to
> work. I passed up on
> >putting Wiley ports into my Cormorant, partly out
> of haste/laziness
> >(wanting to get the boat on the water this year),
> and partly because I
> >didn't want to sacrifice window size. Now, with
> that trapezoidal frame
> >idea in hand, perhaps I can go back and retrofit
> some Wiley ports full
> >size, using the existing window holes.
> >
> >Garth
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Howard Stephenson"
> <stephensonhw@a...>
> >wrote:
> >
> >
> >>The sides of the WW frame are usually parallel to
> each other, and the
> >>glass is rectangular. If you made them so they so
> that the sides were
> >>closer to each other at the bottom than at the the
> top and the glass
> >>trapezoidal in shape to fit, wouldn't this allow
> the glass to be
> >>removed by lifting it only part-way up the frame,
> rather than all the
> >>way up?
> >>
> >>(The cutout could still be parallel-sided so it
> would look normal from
> >>the outside).
> >>
> >>Howard
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>but you need the window's height between
> >>>the upper edge of the window and the cabin
> ceiling in order to pull
> >>>out the glass.
> >>>
> >>>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Bolger rules!!!
> >- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or
> flogging dead horses
> >- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed,
> thanks, Fred' posts
> >- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your
> posts, and snip away
> >- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> >- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >- Open discussion:
>bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
Yahoo! Mail
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour:
http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html
--- "Howard Stephenson" <stephensonhw@a...> wrote:
I guess those ports will go down the hobby boatbuilders' history as
the Wiley-Stephenson windows ;)
Cheers,
Stefan
> The sides of the WW frame are usually parallel to each other, and theThis looks like a terrific idea.
> glass is rectangular. If you made them so they so that the sides were
> closer to each other at the bottom than at the the top and the glass
> trapezoidal in shape to fit, wouldn't this allow the glass to be
> removed by lifting it only part-way up the frame, rather than all the
> way up?
>
> (The cutout could still be parallel-sided so it would look normal from
> the outside).
I guess those ports will go down the hobby boatbuilders' history as
the Wiley-Stephenson windows ;)
Cheers,
Stefan
I just found a file I saved down a long while back that I got from the
multi hull group. It shows a home made fiberglass wiley port, if anybody
wants it.
HJ
GarthAB wrote:
multi hull group. It shows a home made fiberglass wiley port, if anybody
wants it.
HJ
GarthAB wrote:
>Howard --[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>That's an excellent idea and it seems it ought to work. I passed up on
>putting Wiley ports into my Cormorant, partly out of haste/laziness
>(wanting to get the boat on the water this year), and partly because I
>didn't want to sacrifice window size. Now, with that trapezoidal frame
>idea in hand, perhaps I can go back and retrofit some Wiley ports full
>size, using the existing window holes.
>
>Garth
>
>
>
>
>--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Howard Stephenson" <stephensonhw@a...>
>wrote:
>
>
>>The sides of the WW frame are usually parallel to each other, and the
>>glass is rectangular. If you made them so they so that the sides were
>>closer to each other at the bottom than at the the top and the glass
>>trapezoidal in shape to fit, wouldn't this allow the glass to be
>>removed by lifting it only part-way up the frame, rather than all the
>>way up?
>>
>>(The cutout could still be parallel-sided so it would look normal from
>>the outside).
>>
>>Howard
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>but you need the window's height between
>>>the upper edge of the window and the cabin ceiling in order to pull
>>>out the glass.
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Howard --
That's an excellent idea and it seems it ought to work. I passed up on
putting Wiley ports into my Cormorant, partly out of haste/laziness
(wanting to get the boat on the water this year), and partly because I
didn't want to sacrifice window size. Now, with that trapezoidal frame
idea in hand, perhaps I can go back and retrofit some Wiley ports full
size, using the existing window holes.
Garth
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Howard Stephenson" <stephensonhw@a...>
wrote:
That's an excellent idea and it seems it ought to work. I passed up on
putting Wiley ports into my Cormorant, partly out of haste/laziness
(wanting to get the boat on the water this year), and partly because I
didn't want to sacrifice window size. Now, with that trapezoidal frame
idea in hand, perhaps I can go back and retrofit some Wiley ports full
size, using the existing window holes.
Garth
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Howard Stephenson" <stephensonhw@a...>
wrote:
> The sides of the WW frame are usually parallel to each other, and the
> glass is rectangular. If you made them so they so that the sides were
> closer to each other at the bottom than at the the top and the glass
> trapezoidal in shape to fit, wouldn't this allow the glass to be
> removed by lifting it only part-way up the frame, rather than all the
> way up?
>
> (The cutout could still be parallel-sided so it would look normal from
> the outside).
>
> Howard
>
>
> >but you need the window's height between
> > the upper edge of the window and the cabin ceiling in order to pull
> > out the glass.
Thanks to all for the info - it is quite clear to me, particualrly
with the illustration.
Paul
with the illustration.
Paul
Its under files not photos
*http://tinyurl.com/7rbnm
HJ
*
Bob Chamberland wrote:
*http://tinyurl.com/7rbnm
HJ
*
Bob Chamberland wrote:
>Under the photos for this group see "Wiley Port" for the thousand word[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>picture by Mr Bolger.
>Bob Chamberland
>
>--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Lefebvre" <paul@w...> wrote:
>
>
>>a picture is worth a thousand words:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>http://f3.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/MFsTQ3Qpx-kXZxyq6FTBvTeo9TG5Yw5AnhgBNYtOgeHrAVn
>
>
>s7WUzETDQVqhhdC10JnBOWb6t38cp91Y43VD1ePEzGVORjFlj6DxP/Wiley%20Port%20%26%20B
>
>
>>olger%20hatch/Wiley%20port%201.gif
>>
>>
>>Paul L.
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
>>Bob Johnson
>>Sent: Monday, August 29, 2005 3:13 PM
>>To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [bolger] Re: Wiley Window
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Somebody mentioned a copy of BolgerBoats (Folding Schooner and Small
Boats together) up for auction on ebay a while back so I put it on watch
out of curiosity. It went for $60 so I thought I would look on line to
see what a copy is going for these days. Bookfinder the most complete
source shows $165 as the cheapest one with a couple more at $175. Wow!!
Somebody got a deal, hope they are on the group.
HJ
Boats together) up for auction on ebay a while back so I put it on watch
out of curiosity. It went for $60 so I thought I would look on line to
see what a copy is going for these days. Bookfinder the most complete
source shows $165 as the cheapest one with a couple more at $175. Wow!!
Somebody got a deal, hope they are on the group.
HJ
Sorry it is posted in the "files" section.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Chamberland" <cha62759@t...> wrote:
> Under the photos for this group see "Wiley Port" for the thousand word
> picture by Mr Bolger.
> Bob Chamberland
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Lefebvre" <paul@w...> wrote:
> > a picture is worth a thousand words:
> >
> >
>
http://f3.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/MFsTQ3Qpx-kXZxyq6FTBvTeo9TG5Yw5AnhgBNYtOgeHrAVn
> >
>
s7WUzETDQVqhhdC10JnBOWb6t38cp91Y43VD1ePEzGVORjFlj6DxP/Wiley%20Port%20%26%20B
> > olger%20hatch/Wiley%20port%201.gif
> >
> >
> > Paul L.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of
> > Bob Johnson
> > Sent: Monday, August 29, 2005 3:13 PM
> > To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [bolger] Re: Wiley Window
Under the photos for this group see "Wiley Port" for the thousand word
picture by Mr Bolger.
Bob Chamberland
picture by Mr Bolger.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Lefebvre" <paul@w...> wrote:
> a picture is worth a thousand words:
>
>
http://f3.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/MFsTQ3Qpx-kXZxyq6FTBvTeo9TG5Yw5AnhgBNYtOgeHrAVn
>
s7WUzETDQVqhhdC10JnBOWb6t38cp91Y43VD1ePEzGVORjFlj6DxP/Wiley%20Port%20%26%20B
> olger%20hatch/Wiley%20port%201.gif
>
>
> Paul L.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
> Bob Johnson
> Sent: Monday, August 29, 2005 3:13 PM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Wiley Window
The sides of the WW frame are usually parallel to each other, and the
glass is rectangular. If you made them so they so that the sides were
closer to each other at the bottom than at the the top and the glass
trapezoidal in shape to fit, wouldn't this allow the glass to be
removed by lifting it only part-way up the frame, rather than all the
way up?
(The cutout could still be parallel-sided so it would look normal from
the outside).
Howard
glass is rectangular. If you made them so they so that the sides were
closer to each other at the bottom than at the the top and the glass
trapezoidal in shape to fit, wouldn't this allow the glass to be
removed by lifting it only part-way up the frame, rather than all the
way up?
(The cutout could still be parallel-sided so it would look normal from
the outside).
Howard
>but you need the window's height between
> the upper edge of the window and the cabin ceiling in order to pull
> out the glass.
a picture is worth a thousand words:
http://f3.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/MFsTQ3Qpx-kXZxyq6FTBvTeo9TG5Yw5AnhgBNYtOgeHrAVn
s7WUzETDQVqhhdC10JnBOWb6t38cp91Y43VD1ePEzGVORjFlj6DxP/Wiley%20Port%20%26%20B
olger%20hatch/Wiley%20port%201.gif
Paul L.
-----Original Message-----
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
Bob Johnson
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2005 3:13 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Wiley Window
http://f3.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/MFsTQ3Qpx-kXZxyq6FTBvTeo9TG5Yw5AnhgBNYtOgeHrAVn
s7WUzETDQVqhhdC10JnBOWb6t38cp91Y43VD1ePEzGVORjFlj6DxP/Wiley%20Port%20%26%20B
olger%20hatch/Wiley%20port%201.gif
Paul L.
-----Original Message-----
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
Bob Johnson
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2005 3:13 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Wiley Window
To elaborate a little on what has already been said about the wiley
port, the two features that make it desirable are (1) that the glass
can be removed completely for maximum airflow, ie. there is no hinge
per se, but the glass just tilts back in the frame. (2) With the glass
left in the frame, however, the port is self draining, that is the air
has to flow in and up over the top edge of the glass, while rain and
spray fall against the glass and run down into the gutter (that is an
integral part of the frame) and out. The wedges can either hold the
glass open or hold it shut.
Bob
port, the two features that make it desirable are (1) that the glass
can be removed completely for maximum airflow, ie. there is no hinge
per se, but the glass just tilts back in the frame. (2) With the glass
left in the frame, however, the port is self draining, that is the air
has to flow in and up over the top edge of the glass, while rain and
spray fall against the glass and run down into the gutter (that is an
integral part of the frame) and out. The wedges can either hold the
glass open or hold it shut.
Bob
Not hinged.
Excellent rainproof ventilation.
The removable pane is held in place, either open or closed, by a pair of elegant split wedges, (keep them on a tether, or have spares), or remove the pane completely for full air flow.
If you add a small "awning" on the exterior and have scuppers of sufficient size in the anchor well, it could be left open under most conditions.
Made out of plexi it will act as a deadlight.
A second pane, made as a frame with a screen will keep the flying critters outside..
Rick
paulthober <paulthober@...> wrote:
My best guess
is that it is hinged at the bottom and flops open about 30 degrees.
But then why is it there?
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Excellent rainproof ventilation.
The removable pane is held in place, either open or closed, by a pair of elegant split wedges, (keep them on a tether, or have spares), or remove the pane completely for full air flow.
If you add a small "awning" on the exterior and have scuppers of sufficient size in the anchor well, it could be left open under most conditions.
Made out of plexi it will act as a deadlight.
A second pane, made as a frame with a screen will keep the flying critters outside..
Rick
paulthober <paulthober@...> wrote:
My best guess
is that it is hinged at the bottom and flops open about 30 degrees.
But then why is it there?
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Paul,
I don't believe I can send attachments to the group. Send me your email
address and I'll send you several drawings on Wiley windows.
Si
I don't believe I can send attachments to the group. Send me your email
address and I'll send you several drawings on Wiley windows.
Si
On Aug 29, 2005, at 3:53 AM, paulthober wrote:
> I was reviewing my plans for Seabird '86 and am stumped as to what a
> "wiley" window is. On Seabird it is an opening between the forward end
> of the cabin and the anchor well in the bow. I uploaded images from
> the plans that you can see at:http://daviswiki.org/PaulThoberat the
> very bottom of the page. It is #45 on the building key. My best guess
> is that it is hinged at the bottom and flops open about 30 degrees.
> But then why is it there? I will write to Mr. Bolger for clarification
> if I can't figure it out on my own or no one can give me an
> authoritative answer here. Thanks in advance for any help you can
> provide.
>
> Paul
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
> posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
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> The great outdoors
>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- "paulthober" <paulthober@y...> wrote:
behind it that fits to close it. The glass panel is held in place by
some "rails" (part 45 on your drawing) at the bottom and on both
sides. Two small wedges (one at each side) clamp the window shut or
open (tilted) with some angle. You can pull out the glass of the rails
to have the hole completely open.
Cheap and easy to be built, but you need the window's height between
the upper edge of the window and the cabin ceiling in order to pull
out the glass. In your case that's easy since you can pull out the
glass by opening the hatch above it.
There is a more detailled drawing of a wiley window in one of the boat
groups. I'd search the Bolger groups, if not there then boatdesign or
Michalak.
HTH,
Stefan
> I was reviewing my plans for Seabird '86 and am stumped as to what aA Wiley window is basically a hole in a hull, with a glass panel
> "wiley" window is.
behind it that fits to close it. The glass panel is held in place by
some "rails" (part 45 on your drawing) at the bottom and on both
sides. Two small wedges (one at each side) clamp the window shut or
open (tilted) with some angle. You can pull out the glass of the rails
to have the hole completely open.
Cheap and easy to be built, but you need the window's height between
the upper edge of the window and the cabin ceiling in order to pull
out the glass. In your case that's easy since you can pull out the
glass by opening the hatch above it.
There is a more detailled drawing of a wiley window in one of the boat
groups. I'd search the Bolger groups, if not there then boatdesign or
Michalak.
HTH,
Stefan
I was reviewing my plans for Seabird '86 and am stumped as to what a
"wiley" window is. On Seabird it is an opening between the forward end
of the cabin and the anchor well in the bow. I uploaded images from
the plans that you can see at:http://daviswiki.org/PaulThoberat the
very bottom of the page. It is #45 on the building key. My best guess
is that it is hinged at the bottom and flops open about 30 degrees.
But then why is it there? I will write to Mr. Bolger for clarification
if I can't figure it out on my own or no one can give me an
authoritative answer here. Thanks in advance for any help you can
provide.
Paul
"wiley" window is. On Seabird it is an opening between the forward end
of the cabin and the anchor well in the bow. I uploaded images from
the plans that you can see at:http://daviswiki.org/PaulThoberat the
very bottom of the page. It is #45 on the building key. My best guess
is that it is hinged at the bottom and flops open about 30 degrees.
But then why is it there? I will write to Mr. Bolger for clarification
if I can't figure it out on my own or no one can give me an
authoritative answer here. Thanks in advance for any help you can
provide.
Paul