Re: [bolger] More Birdwatcher Junk Rig
The vertical reefing PCB drew for Birdwatcher is really several brails
leading from the mast through grommets in the sail and then through
fairleads or blocks and down to the deck. You slack off the snotter, haul in
the brails and, presto! you're reefed. H. I. Chapelle drew something similar
for his 24' sharpie (reviewed in the latest Wooden Boat), but I think Chappy
had a vertical batten that the brails ran through. Seems pretty handy, but I
notice that PCB hasn't used the method again...
leading from the mast through grommets in the sail and then through
fairleads or blocks and down to the deck. You slack off the snotter, haul in
the brails and, presto! you're reefed. H. I. Chapelle drew something similar
for his 24' sharpie (reviewed in the latest Wooden Boat), but I think Chappy
had a vertical batten that the brails ran through. Seems pretty handy, but I
notice that PCB hasn't used the method again...
On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 15:37:24 -0400, COD wrote:
> Thanks Craig, That makes sense.
> I keep thinking about the original BW rig and its simplicity: 1 sheet, 1
> snotter, and 1 reef line (vertical).
>
> It's simple and it isn't. The vertical reefing is an old sharpie idea form
> the 1870s or 80s.
>
> The problem is, you had a couple guys on a sharpie to fool with that
> reefing (you have to lower the sail, then haul it up one section at a
time,
> tying the reef in as it goes up). Minimum one guy on the tiller and one on
> the sail, maybe two on the sail, and perhaps it's more effective with a
> cat-yawl rig where the aft sail can keep the boat head to wind. I suppose,
> yes, it might be possible to lash the tiller and perform the feat
> one-handed; I'm not sure I'd like to try.
> ...
--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.boat-links.com/
I cannot help thinking that the people with motor boats miss a great deal.
If they would only keep to rowboats or canoes, and use oar or paddle...
they would get infinitely more benefit than by having their work done for
them by gasoline. <Theodore Roosevelt>
"All in all, reading that account makes me want to own a Birdwatcher
even more than I already do."
I have read this account of building and sailing his modified BW1 many times. I'm a year behind on my BW2, and so I still go to hid site for the occasional inspiration Note that he built a female mold then did a fiberglass layup with foam core. I have to wonder what happened to the 1" thick bottom shown in the original plywood plans, which Bolger indicates IS ballast and integral to the success of the design. The builder seems to be an intelligent fellow, so I would assume he compensated with some sort of weight, but if not, it could account for the tenderness and tippiness he describes.
In the plans I recieved from PB&F, the location of the batteries are intended to counterweight the 110 lb.steel plate in the "off-center" board.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
even more than I already do."
I have read this account of building and sailing his modified BW1 many times. I'm a year behind on my BW2, and so I still go to hid site for the occasional inspiration Note that he built a female mold then did a fiberglass layup with foam core. I have to wonder what happened to the 1" thick bottom shown in the original plywood plans, which Bolger indicates IS ballast and integral to the success of the design. The builder seems to be an intelligent fellow, so I would assume he compensated with some sort of weight, but if not, it could account for the tenderness and tippiness he describes.
In the plans I recieved from PB&F, the location of the batteries are intended to counterweight the 110 lb.steel plate in the "off-center" board.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
riged Michalak birdwatcher I put in about 140lbs of ballast (in the
form of 10 litre jugs of water tied down to the floor) so the boat will
self right (it does). This would be in the way if I had any passengers
but then if I have the weight of just one other person I don't need the
extra ballast.
Mike
> > I found the firsthand account of a Birdwatcher knockdownFor this reason (more weight aloft), when I'm sailing alone in my junk-
> > especially interesting.
>
> [Oops, I hit 'send' too soon.] Reports of the knockdown also
> make me wonder if it would be prudent to add weight of the
> junk rig top yard and battens up high without first doing some
> stability curve calculations. A benefit of the sprit rig and a
> needle mast, not yet mentioned, is the helpful effect
> of the the minimal weight up high on the stability curve.
riged Michalak birdwatcher I put in about 140lbs of ballast (in the
form of 10 litre jugs of water tied down to the floor) so the boat will
self right (it does). This would be in the way if I had any passengers
but then if I have the weight of just one other person I don't need the
extra ballast.
Mike
> I found the firsthand account of a Birdwatcher knockdown[Oops, I hit 'send' too soon.] Reports of the knockdown also
> especially interesting.
make me wonder if it would be prudent to add weight of the
junk rig top yard and battens up high without first doing some
stability curve calculations. A benefit of the sprit rig and a
needle mast, not yet mentioned, is the helpful effect
of the the minimal weight up high on the stability curve.
On 9/14/05, Mike Mulcahy wrote:
especially interesting.
I conclude that water on the sail kept the boat on its side for the
30 seconds; then it righted, just as PCB intended. I also speculate
that the heavy battery in the fixed box of BW2 is in part intended
to give more fixed weight down low to help recovery in knockdowns.
If I owned a BW, I would rig a way that the heavier items in my
gear were held down low, so that in a knockdown they would not
shift 'up' and degrade the center of gravity necessary for recovery.
All in all, reading that account makes me want to own a Birdwatcher
even more than I already do.
> This should interest youI found the firsthand account of a Birdwatcher knockdown
>http://www.geocities.com/kayaker37/Aeneas_Birdwatcher.html
especially interesting.
I conclude that water on the sail kept the boat on its side for the
30 seconds; then it righted, just as PCB intended. I also speculate
that the heavy battery in the fixed box of BW2 is in part intended
to give more fixed weight down low to help recovery in knockdowns.
If I owned a BW, I would rig a way that the heavier items in my
gear were held down low, so that in a knockdown they would not
shift 'up' and degrade the center of gravity necessary for recovery.
All in all, reading that account makes me want to own a Birdwatcher
even more than I already do.
This should interest you
http://www.geocities.com/kayaker37/Aeneas_Birdwatcher.html
A birdwatcher sailer who has his boat set up so he can reef his
solent rig with tarp cover in place.
Mike
http://www.geocities.com/kayaker37/Aeneas_Birdwatcher.html
A birdwatcher sailer who has his boat set up so he can reef his
solent rig with tarp cover in place.
Mike
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Lipsey" <saillips@c...> wrote:
> "You have to move the clew of the sprit boom up to a higher
position."
>
> Thanks Craig, That makes sense.
> I keep thinking about the original BW rig and its simplicity: 1
sheet, 1 snotter, and 1 reef line (vertical). The mast for BW2 is
taller than the original, and that is the reason ( to my
understanding) why Mr Bolger drew the solent.
> I am now wondering if I couldn't just fabricate a one-piece mast as
long as the solent rig (when fully extended) to gain the additonal
sail area, perhaps adding a second vertical reef line, and retain the
overall simplicity of the original. It doesn't seem it would be much
more difficult to step such a mast over the original.
> Any junk rig I fabricate would be of the low tech kind, which of
course is part of the appeal, but I can't help but speculate that the
BW hull (1 or 2) would perform better with the marconi sprit rig and
jib ( as drawn by Mr Bolger).
> All of this is pure speculation and conjecture on my part, which
always seems to get me in trouble!
> Any and all comments are welcome.
> Thanks again for the input.
> David Lipsey
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Lipsey" <saillips@c...> wroteThanks for your kind words David. Actually I'm indebted for the
> Hello Graeme, that's brilliant! Thank you for a clear vision and
>alternative. Much appreciated!
stimulus, as writing really sorts out one's own understanding of
these many boaty things.
>--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Lipsey" <saillips@c...> wrote:About that verticle brailing/reefing line of the Birdwatcher 1
> "It's simple and it isn't"
>
> Hi Craig, once again you've given me some "mental floss" which I
>need to consider and dwell upon, "sans" chewing gum!
> I really thought the BW1 rig was a running reefing lacing; that
>is, pull the line and it constricts the luff all the way up the
>mast ( again, from the perspective of my arm chair). The only
>problem I've heard about such a system is a little trouble removing
>or shaking out the reef all the way to the top. I didn't understand
>the need to lower the sail. In Mr Bolger's version, I didn't even
>think there WAS a halyard on the main. I thought it was fixed to
>the top of the mast.
> Thank you for your time and information,
> David Lipsey
original rig: I too have read that it can be hard, due to the line
binding, to shake this kind of reef out at the top of the sail. I
think it was Jim Michalak. He shows this reefing type in the
sailplans of some of his smaller boats, eg. Larsboat.
However, looking at the BW1 sail there are only three or four
(depends what you're counting) complete loops through the sail and
about the mast, or through deadeyes on the mast, and it is not hard
to envisage that there might be negligible binding using modern day
unwaterloggable, flexible, slippery, synthetic rope. A light line
only would be required and thin woven nylon (4mm dia, here we call
it venetian blind cord - cheap) might do as stretching a little
would not cause a problem. Thin dacron (2 or 4mm ~1/8" dia) might
be better. The eyelets that the line is rove through in the sail can
be relatively quite large (10mm+, ~ 1/2" dia) as can any deadeyes.
To increase the likelihood that the reef line would not bind, the
top and bottom could be running working ends allowing the line to
slip back out through its turns about mast and sail from both ends
together, rather than having one end fastened near the mast top with
the line having to run back out all the way from the bottom up
through 9 or so bends. Both running ends could be run to the lower
mast or be brought back to near the helm. Only a few feet would have
to be hauled to quickly and easily pull in the reef.
(The reef line could even be split into multiple reef lines to
further ease the freeing of the reef; say one reef line of just a
couple of turns at the upper sail and one for the rest. I think it
would be alright to handle each line in this split rig consecutively
rather than contemporaneously.)
You would not have to lower the BW1 original sail to reef . The sail
head is fastened to the mast top, thereby eliminating the need for a
halyard. The mast only needs to be half as strong to resist bending
induced in it by the stretched luff, and so is half the weight
making it easy to strike and stow. This overcomes the temptation to
row whilst suffering the windage of a heavier more difficultly
managed rig left un-struck.
Bolger writes in places that this sail can be flattened by the sprit
so well, and feathered, and reflexively self flatens by bending the
light mast in gusts, that it would seldom ever require reefing. The
sail may not perform so well when verticly furled against the mast
and disturbing the airflow. Yet, in such bad conditions as would
require reefing, the reefed sail would perform well enough reaching
or running, and I imagine it would be undesirably too uncomfortable
in any boat under any rig to be beating to windward. Anyway thats
what the iron sail or sea anchor is for, no?
It seems it was not because the original rig proved too heavy or too
hard to reef and unreef that Mr Bolger designed the alternative,
bigger Solent Lug rig. Mostly it must have been found to be fine. He
simply responded to a rare complaint from some owners who wanted
more canvas for livelier sailing in their light wind region (BWAOM
p235).
If you go for that more powerful Solent Lug second rig: then the jib
would already be struck well before reefing the mainsail. If the
simple option is chosen of raising the yard by a single halyard
which is re-bent (or re-snapshackled) to the yard at one of two
places according to how much sail is to be flown; then when reefing,
the entire sail, boom, and yard may be dropped and gathered safely
into the deck slot ( watch out for the yard tip quickly dropping
below horizontal and knocking things about - heads!). The halyard
fastening point and the reef pendants can then be adjusted, in the
comfort of the cabin. I've read reports that the BW 1 will heave-to
ahull when not powered. She is not going to drift very far before
you re-hoist the sail after performing the necessary reefing
operations at some leisure and ease.
Graeme
Hi Craig, once again you've given me some "mental floss" which I need to
consider and dwell upon, "sans" chewing gum!
I just looked at BWA Open Mind and yes, it's supposed to be a pulling /
brailing setup. The whole time I was picturing the vertical slab reefing
that Chapelle documents. As usual, I am 120 years behind the times. Sorry.
In this situation where a sail is more or less permanently on the mast I
would not tie the sail tightly on the mast but use a lacing. I'd go for a
"half halyard" of some sort, where you can drop the sail's head the
required number of feet and put the sprit into a new clew fitting. Imagine
a hole or a block where the "halyard" is knotted so that when you let it go
the head can only drop say 4 feet before the knot stops it.
To shake out the reef you pull on the line (maybe it's "jackline" rather
than a halyard) and pull the head back up, put the sprit where it was
before. The tackline and this mystery line are used to provide the required
luff tension.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
consider and dwell upon, "sans" chewing gum!
I just looked at BWA Open Mind and yes, it's supposed to be a pulling /
brailing setup. The whole time I was picturing the vertical slab reefing
that Chapelle documents. As usual, I am 120 years behind the times. Sorry.
In this situation where a sail is more or less permanently on the mast I
would not tie the sail tightly on the mast but use a lacing. I'd go for a
"half halyard" of some sort, where you can drop the sail's head the
required number of feet and put the sprit into a new clew fitting. Imagine
a hole or a block where the "halyard" is knotted so that when you let it go
the head can only drop say 4 feet before the knot stops it.
To shake out the reef you pull on the line (maybe it's "jackline" rather
than a halyard) and pull the head back up, put the sprit where it was
before. The tackline and this mystery line are used to provide the required
luff tension.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Craig, once again you've given me some "mental floss" which I need to
consider and dwell upon, "sans" chewing gum!
I really thought the BW1 rig was a running reefing lacing; that is, pull
the line and it constricts the luff all the way up the mast ( again, from
the perspective of my arm chair). The only problem I've heard about such a
system is a little trouble removing or shaking out the reef all the way to
the top. I didn't understand the need to lower the sail. In Mr Bolger's
version, I didn't even think there WAS a halyard on the main. I thought it
was fixed to the top of the mast.
Ah, perhaps it is, a brailing line. I think I misremembered. <chuckle>.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
consider and dwell upon, "sans" chewing gum!
I really thought the BW1 rig was a running reefing lacing; that is, pull
the line and it constricts the luff all the way up the mast ( again, from
the perspective of my arm chair). The only problem I've heard about such a
system is a little trouble removing or shaking out the reef all the way to
the top. I didn't understand the need to lower the sail. In Mr Bolger's
version, I didn't even think there WAS a halyard on the main. I thought it
was fixed to the top of the mast.
Ah, perhaps it is, a brailing line. I think I misremembered. <chuckle>.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
"the parrel is below the "snottering off point" of the sprit
boom on the mast, and so is able to slide up and down without
interference."
Hello Graeme, that's brilliant! Thank you for a clear vision and alternative. Much appreciated!
David
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
boom on the mast, and so is able to slide up and down without
interference."
Hello Graeme, that's brilliant! Thank you for a clear vision and alternative. Much appreciated!
David
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
"It's simple and it isn't"
Hi Craig, once again you've given me some "mental floss" which I need to consider and dwell upon, "sans" chewing gum!
I really thought the BW1 rig was a running reefing lacing; that is, pull the line and it constricts the luff all the way up the mast ( again, from the perspective of my arm chair). The only problem I've heard about such a system is a little trouble removing or shaking out the reef all the way to the top. I didn't understand the need to lower the sail. In Mr Bolger's version, I didn't even think there WAS a halyard on the main. I thought it was fixed to the top of the mast.
Thank you for your time and information,
David Lipsey
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Craig, once again you've given me some "mental floss" which I need to consider and dwell upon, "sans" chewing gum!
I really thought the BW1 rig was a running reefing lacing; that is, pull the line and it constricts the luff all the way up the mast ( again, from the perspective of my arm chair). The only problem I've heard about such a system is a little trouble removing or shaking out the reef all the way to the top. I didn't understand the need to lower the sail. In Mr Bolger's version, I didn't even think there WAS a halyard on the main. I thought it was fixed to the top of the mast.
Thank you for your time and information,
David Lipsey
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Thanks Craig, That makes sense.
I keep thinking about the original BW rig and its simplicity: 1 sheet, 1
snotter, and 1 reef line (vertical).
It's simple and it isn't. The vertical reefing is an old sharpie idea form
the 1870s or 80s.
The problem is, you had a couple guys on a sharpie to fool with that
reefing (you have to lower the sail, then haul it up one section at a time,
tying the reef in as it goes up). Minimum one guy on the tiller and one on
the sail, maybe two on the sail, and perhaps it's more effective with a
cat-yawl rig where the aft sail can keep the boat head to wind. I suppose,
yes, it might be possible to lash the tiller and perform the feat
one-handed; I'm not sure I'd like to try.
Aside from destroying the aerodynamics of a modern sail at least for going
to windward, I guess there's an argument to be made for reefing that way.
My impression is that any fisherman ca 1880 out in a reefing breeze is
going to be running or at best reaching. He is NOT going to be trying to go
to windward. So loss of efficiency would not matter, and it's very possible
his sail didn't go so great to windward anyway.
The argument against a club is that you could get clubbed by the club, but
careful examination of many of the boats that used a club will show you
that the club was not passing anywhere where someone's head should be, and
it does allow much more area down low. Nowadays the club per se could be a
carbon fiber tube. Light. No wose than getting cluubbbedddd by the sprit
boom itself.
... having two clews is not unusual. Reefing jibs often had two clews.
Another idea is the dual sprit setup on racing sharpie rigs. To reef,
remove the lower sprit, stow, and roll the foot of the sail up. Some sort
of snatch block or other setup would probably be necessary to move the
"upper sprit" tackle to the lower position so the hoiist of the sail is
lower. (I could picture a "halyard/downhaul on the snotter" type of setup,
but it might be too complicated to be practical; I'm not sure I've ever
seen one diagrammed -- I have seen diagrammed a "bowstring" type of snotter
which might be more adaptable). This is assuming the sprits incorporate
some sort of hole, block or fairlead for the snotter line.
Or just [physically] refit the "upper sprit" nose into the loop of the
lower sprit tackle, assuming the sprit is notched, or has a peg across it,
or is tapered to fit into an eye.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I keep thinking about the original BW rig and its simplicity: 1 sheet, 1
snotter, and 1 reef line (vertical).
It's simple and it isn't. The vertical reefing is an old sharpie idea form
the 1870s or 80s.
The problem is, you had a couple guys on a sharpie to fool with that
reefing (you have to lower the sail, then haul it up one section at a time,
tying the reef in as it goes up). Minimum one guy on the tiller and one on
the sail, maybe two on the sail, and perhaps it's more effective with a
cat-yawl rig where the aft sail can keep the boat head to wind. I suppose,
yes, it might be possible to lash the tiller and perform the feat
one-handed; I'm not sure I'd like to try.
Aside from destroying the aerodynamics of a modern sail at least for going
to windward, I guess there's an argument to be made for reefing that way.
My impression is that any fisherman ca 1880 out in a reefing breeze is
going to be running or at best reaching. He is NOT going to be trying to go
to windward. So loss of efficiency would not matter, and it's very possible
his sail didn't go so great to windward anyway.
The argument against a club is that you could get clubbed by the club, but
careful examination of many of the boats that used a club will show you
that the club was not passing anywhere where someone's head should be, and
it does allow much more area down low. Nowadays the club per se could be a
carbon fiber tube. Light. No wose than getting cluubbbedddd by the sprit
boom itself.
... having two clews is not unusual. Reefing jibs often had two clews.
Another idea is the dual sprit setup on racing sharpie rigs. To reef,
remove the lower sprit, stow, and roll the foot of the sail up. Some sort
of snatch block or other setup would probably be necessary to move the
"upper sprit" tackle to the lower position so the hoiist of the sail is
lower. (I could picture a "halyard/downhaul on the snotter" type of setup,
but it might be too complicated to be practical; I'm not sure I've ever
seen one diagrammed -- I have seen diagrammed a "bowstring" type of snotter
which might be more adaptable). This is assuming the sprits incorporate
some sort of hole, block or fairlead for the snotter line.
Or just [physically] refit the "upper sprit" nose into the loop of the
lower sprit tackle, assuming the sprit is notched, or has a peg across it,
or is tapered to fit into an eye.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Lipsey" <saillips@c...> wrote:
if the heel of the yard is held to the mast by a parrel around the
mast, the parrel is below the "snottering off point" of the sprit
boom on the mast, and so is able to slide up and down without
interference. The parrel does not have to pass down over any of the
snotter works when reefing as it is already below them.
The sail is bent to the yard and below this may be loosely bent to
the mast in one or two places, but is probably better left free and
only fastened to the mast at the tack or reef tack. A line is
permanently rove or hooked to the reef tack to speed its tying in.
Likewise the clew remains bent on the boom and a line is rove from
the reef clew to a reefing point (deadeye and/or cleat) fixed to the
sprit boom.
This way the the snotter does not have to be re-rigged and the sprit
boom does not have to be re-rigged in a more forward position, but
is left where-is, with the sheet also unchanged, which retains a
better sheeting angle. The foot is rolled up and held in by the
reefing pendants (the reefed foot may look a little untidy and
scrunched-up between the clew and reef clew).
Another way of retaining the heel of the yard to the mast at
whatever height the sail is set is by way of a single hinged slide
at the yard heel engaging a short track on the aft face of the mast.
Of course, the track can be full length with a number of slides
effectively giving a Gunter rig not prone to the binding and grease
problems of the traditional iron rings about the mast and fixed to
the yard that Mr Bolger objects to.
Graeme
> "Then reefing is made simple, by easing the throat toalong the wire span."
> the required depth, with the peak held up by the shackle sliding
> Hi Alvan,David,
> That's a good idea. The way Mr Bolger has it drawn in the sailplan
>sheet, it appears the yard is raised up and parrallel to the mast,
>with about half the yard extending above the mast. This is in
>conjunction with a sprit boom that is snottered off at about the
>mid-way point up the mast timber (all this is from memory, don't
>have the plans in front of me right now, so I may be off a bit)
>with the other end of the sprit boom running back and down at an
>angle to the clew, so that when tensioned it acts as a vang.
> I'm confused as to how to incorporate horizontal reefing, which I
>would think the solent yard would lend itself to, with the sprit
>boom.
> I envision rigging the halyard for the yard as a self tightening
>parrel. That is, fixed at the appropriate place on the yard, wrap
>around the mast back to a small pulley at the same point the bitter
>end is fixed to the yard, then up to the masthead sheave and down
>to a cleat. The lower end fo the yard would have a fixed parrel to
>hold it agianst the mast. This would allow horizontal reef points,
>but how to use the srit boom?!?
> I solo sail much of the time and would like the ability to easily
>reef or shake reefs out single-handed, without drama, and from the
>comfort of a closed dry Birdwatcher cabin in inclement weather,
>thus the alure of a junk rig.
> Thanks for your input.
> David Lipsey
if the heel of the yard is held to the mast by a parrel around the
mast, the parrel is below the "snottering off point" of the sprit
boom on the mast, and so is able to slide up and down without
interference. The parrel does not have to pass down over any of the
snotter works when reefing as it is already below them.
The sail is bent to the yard and below this may be loosely bent to
the mast in one or two places, but is probably better left free and
only fastened to the mast at the tack or reef tack. A line is
permanently rove or hooked to the reef tack to speed its tying in.
Likewise the clew remains bent on the boom and a line is rove from
the reef clew to a reefing point (deadeye and/or cleat) fixed to the
sprit boom.
This way the the snotter does not have to be re-rigged and the sprit
boom does not have to be re-rigged in a more forward position, but
is left where-is, with the sheet also unchanged, which retains a
better sheeting angle. The foot is rolled up and held in by the
reefing pendants (the reefed foot may look a little untidy and
scrunched-up between the clew and reef clew).
Another way of retaining the heel of the yard to the mast at
whatever height the sail is set is by way of a single hinged slide
at the yard heel engaging a short track on the aft face of the mast.
Of course, the track can be full length with a number of slides
effectively giving a Gunter rig not prone to the binding and grease
problems of the traditional iron rings about the mast and fixed to
the yard that Mr Bolger objects to.
Graeme
"You have to move the clew of the sprit boom up to a higher position."
Thanks Craig, That makes sense.
I keep thinking about the original BW rig and its simplicity: 1 sheet, 1 snotter, and 1 reef line (vertical). The mast for BW2 is taller than the original, and that is the reason ( to my understanding) why Mr Bolger drew the solent.
I am now wondering if I couldn't just fabricate a one-piece mast as long as the solent rig (when fully extended) to gain the additonal sail area, perhaps adding a second vertical reef line, and retain the overall simplicity of the original. It doesn't seem it would be much more difficult to step such a mast over the original.
Any junk rig I fabricate would be of the low tech kind, which of course is part of the appeal, but I can't help but speculate that the BW hull (1 or 2) would perform better with the marconi sprit rig and jib ( as drawn by Mr Bolger).
All of this is pure speculation and conjecture on my part, which always seems to get me in trouble!
Any and all comments are welcome.
Thanks again for the input.
David Lipsey
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Thanks Craig, That makes sense.
I keep thinking about the original BW rig and its simplicity: 1 sheet, 1 snotter, and 1 reef line (vertical). The mast for BW2 is taller than the original, and that is the reason ( to my understanding) why Mr Bolger drew the solent.
I am now wondering if I couldn't just fabricate a one-piece mast as long as the solent rig (when fully extended) to gain the additonal sail area, perhaps adding a second vertical reef line, and retain the overall simplicity of the original. It doesn't seem it would be much more difficult to step such a mast over the original.
Any junk rig I fabricate would be of the low tech kind, which of course is part of the appeal, but I can't help but speculate that the BW hull (1 or 2) would perform better with the marconi sprit rig and jib ( as drawn by Mr Bolger).
All of this is pure speculation and conjecture on my part, which always seems to get me in trouble!
Any and all comments are welcome.
Thanks again for the input.
David Lipsey
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I'm confused as to how to incorporate horizontal reefing, which I would
think the solent yard would lend itself to, with the sprit boom.
You have to move the clew of the sprit boom up to a higher position.
I suggested to Jim Michalak that the simplest way to reef a sprit boomed
sail is to have a sail with a club. Sprit boomed sails with clubs were
extremely common on the Chesapeake; the sprit is T shaped. Jim did not buy
this, but it seems relatively simple and logical.
To reef, you lower the sail so the clew is in the boat ... and detach the
club from the "lower clew" and "upper clew" - you unsocket the club from
the sprit boom - you attach the sprit boom to the "upper clew" like a
standard sprit boom. The foot of the sail would have to rolled up with some
laces, sort of like an old timey bedroll.
It might be possible to leave the club connected to the "lower clew" and
roll sail around it.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
think the solent yard would lend itself to, with the sprit boom.
You have to move the clew of the sprit boom up to a higher position.
I suggested to Jim Michalak that the simplest way to reef a sprit boomed
sail is to have a sail with a club. Sprit boomed sails with clubs were
extremely common on the Chesapeake; the sprit is T shaped. Jim did not buy
this, but it seems relatively simple and logical.
To reef, you lower the sail so the clew is in the boat ... and detach the
club from the "lower clew" and "upper clew" - you unsocket the club from
the sprit boom - you attach the sprit boom to the "upper clew" like a
standard sprit boom. The foot of the sail would have to rolled up with some
laces, sort of like an old timey bedroll.
It might be possible to leave the club connected to the "lower clew" and
roll sail around it.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
"Then reefing is made simple, by easing the throat to
the required depth, with the peak held up by the shackle sliding along the
wire span."
Hi Alvan,
That's a good idea. The way Mr Bolger has it drawn in the sailplan sheet, it appears the yard is raised up and parrallel to the mast, with about half the yard extending above the mast. This is in conjunction with a sprit boom that is snottered off at about the mid-way point up the mast timber (all this is from memory, don't have the plans in front of me right now, so I may be off a bit) with the other end of the sprit boom running back and down at an angle to the clew, so that when tensioned it acts as a vang.
On the original BW, there is simply the mast and sprit, and reefing is done vertically with a laced reef line which tightens an area of the luff into the mast.
I'm confused as to how to incorporate horizontal reefing, which I would think the solent yard would lend itself to, with the sprit boom.
I envision rigging the halyard for the yard as a self tightening parrel. That is, fixed at the appropriate place on the yard, wrap around the mast back to a small pulley at the same point the bitter end is fixed to the yard, then up to the masthead sheave and down to a cleat. The lower end fo the yard would have a fixed parrel to hold it agianst the mast. This would allow horizontal reef points, but how to use the srit boom?!?
I solo sail much of the time and would like the ability to easily reef or shake reefs out single-handed, without drama, and from the comfort of a closed dry Birdwatcher cabin in inclement weather, thus the alure of a junk rig.
Thanks for your input.
David Lipsey
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
the required depth, with the peak held up by the shackle sliding along the
wire span."
Hi Alvan,
That's a good idea. The way Mr Bolger has it drawn in the sailplan sheet, it appears the yard is raised up and parrallel to the mast, with about half the yard extending above the mast. This is in conjunction with a sprit boom that is snottered off at about the mid-way point up the mast timber (all this is from memory, don't have the plans in front of me right now, so I may be off a bit) with the other end of the sprit boom running back and down at an angle to the clew, so that when tensioned it acts as a vang.
On the original BW, there is simply the mast and sprit, and reefing is done vertically with a laced reef line which tightens an area of the luff into the mast.
I'm confused as to how to incorporate horizontal reefing, which I would think the solent yard would lend itself to, with the sprit boom.
I envision rigging the halyard for the yard as a self tightening parrel. That is, fixed at the appropriate place on the yard, wrap around the mast back to a small pulley at the same point the bitter end is fixed to the yard, then up to the masthead sheave and down to a cleat. The lower end fo the yard would have a fixed parrel to hold it agianst the mast. This would allow horizontal reef points, but how to use the srit boom?!?
I solo sail much of the time and would like the ability to easily reef or shake reefs out single-handed, without drama, and from the comfort of a closed dry Birdwatcher cabin in inclement weather, thus the alure of a junk rig.
Thanks for your input.
David Lipsey
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]