Re: [bolger] Re: One Man Liveaboard Concept
On 10/19/05, John B. Trussell wrote:
double duty as the frames, so no extra work is spent on frames. With
modern software, the need for spiling and trial & error fitting of the
strakes can be eliminated.
I am not saying that plywood strakes are always [or ever] faster to
build than stitch and glue. I am just saying that plystrake can be
*about* the same time, or slightly more, as stitch and glue.
My 44 hour plystrake double ender took about the same amount time to
build as a similar size stitch and glue hull. I think that smoothly
curved hulls row noticably better and weigh less than flat panel
hulls.
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/05/projects/lapstreak/index.cfm
> Plywood lapstrake has to be built over molds on some sort of frame and withWith the Bolger 'Spur II' plystrake method, the seat supports do
> some sort of backbone. If it is to look right, the strakes need to be lined
> off, spiled, cut, and fitted.
double duty as the frames, so no extra work is spent on frames. With
modern software, the need for spiling and trial & error fitting of the
strakes can be eliminated.
I am not saying that plywood strakes are always [or ever] faster to
build than stitch and glue. I am just saying that plystrake can be
*about* the same time, or slightly more, as stitch and glue.
My 44 hour plystrake double ender took about the same amount time to
build as a similar size stitch and glue hull. I think that smoothly
curved hulls row noticably better and weigh less than flat panel
hulls.
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/05/projects/lapstreak/index.cfm
Yes and no. It is certainly true that stitch and glue depends on the
accurate layout and cutting of the various panels. However, it is a fairly
simple matter to trim up hard spots or to fiberglass a "stealer" in place.
I've had to do both.
Plywood lapstrake has to be built over molds on some sort of frame and with
some sort of backbone. If it is to look right, the strakes need to be lined
off, spiled, cut, and fitted. Although it is possible to simply fill any
gaps with thickened epoxy, it is better practice to plane the top edge of
each strake for more landing and a wider glue joint. It is also good
practice to cut gains in the front of each plank so that all planks fit
smoothly into the stem. None of this is hard (and I find it entertaining),
but it takes more time than laying out and cutting a stitch and glue panel.
Regardless of the construction type used, finishing and fitting out eat up a
huge (maybe 50-65%) of the total time needed to complete the boat. If you
build a boat, you will probably build more. My eleventh project ( stitch
and glue 19 ft sail boat) is just about ready to launch. My next project
will either be a flat bottomed skiff with lapstrake sides or a small,
plywood lapstrake faering. I've tried strip/fiberglass, framed plywood,
stitch and glue plywood, and plywood lapstrake. I've produced useable boats
which pleased me using each method. To assemble a hull, stitch and glue is
the quickest for me.
John T
accurate layout and cutting of the various panels. However, it is a fairly
simple matter to trim up hard spots or to fiberglass a "stealer" in place.
I've had to do both.
Plywood lapstrake has to be built over molds on some sort of frame and with
some sort of backbone. If it is to look right, the strakes need to be lined
off, spiled, cut, and fitted. Although it is possible to simply fill any
gaps with thickened epoxy, it is better practice to plane the top edge of
each strake for more landing and a wider glue joint. It is also good
practice to cut gains in the front of each plank so that all planks fit
smoothly into the stem. None of this is hard (and I find it entertaining),
but it takes more time than laying out and cutting a stitch and glue panel.
Regardless of the construction type used, finishing and fitting out eat up a
huge (maybe 50-65%) of the total time needed to complete the boat. If you
build a boat, you will probably build more. My eleventh project ( stitch
and glue 19 ft sail boat) is just about ready to launch. My next project
will either be a flat bottomed skiff with lapstrake sides or a small,
plywood lapstrake faering. I've tried strip/fiberglass, framed plywood,
stitch and glue plywood, and plywood lapstrake. I've produced useable boats
which pleased me using each method. To assemble a hull, stitch and glue is
the quickest for me.
John T
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 12:05 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: One Man Liveaboard Concept
>> with type of construction, However, the time to assemble an unfinished
>> hull
>> varies directly with the number of parts it requires.
>
> True, but also, it varies with the necessary accuracy of the parts.
> Plywood lapstrake has a greater tolerance for error than
> plywood panel, in my experiments at least.
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
> horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
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>
>
> > True, but also, it varies with the necessary accuracy of the parts.That, plus, (to my eyes at least), I do not see imperfections and
> > Plywood lapstrake has a greater tolerance for error than
> > plywood panel, in my experiments at least.
>
> Makes sense, more joints to permit fudging things back in line.
asymetry on a curvy hull as easily as I can see imperfections
on hulls with 'straight' lines and 'flat' surfaces.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, somebody....> wrote:
>Makes sense, more joints to permit fudging things back in line.
> True, but also, it varies with the necessary accuracy of the parts.
> Plywood lapstrake has a greater tolerance for error than
> plywood panel, in my experiments at least.
>
> with type of construction, However, the time to assemble an unfinished hullTrue, but also, it varies with the necessary accuracy of the parts.
> varies directly with the number of parts it requires.
Plywood lapstrake has a greater tolerance for error than
plywood panel, in my experiments at least.
I would suggest that while a skilled boatbuilder can build a boat using most
construction methods in comparable times, most of us aren't skilled
boatbuilders. My experience has been that a considerable amount of time is
spent on finishing and fitting out, and that this time does not vary much
with type of construction, However, the time to assemble an unfinished hull
varies directly with the number of parts it requires. As an example, my
Light Scooner took a lot less tine to build than a 12 ft Oughtred Acorn
Skiff. The Acorn was lapstrake ply with seven or eight strakes per side, a
fairly complicated backbone, a number of frames and knees, etc. The Scooner
was a plywood flat bottomed skiff with 4 frames and a transom. (In
fairness, the construction of the masts, gaffs, ad booms for the Scooner was
time consuming, but that isn't really part of the hull.)
I do love curvy boats, but I build simple ones. Perhaps the best marraige
of curvy and simple is Ian Oughtred's lovely "Elf"., with PCB's lght Dory a
close second.
John T
construction methods in comparable times, most of us aren't skilled
boatbuilders. My experience has been that a considerable amount of time is
spent on finishing and fitting out, and that this time does not vary much
with type of construction, However, the time to assemble an unfinished hull
varies directly with the number of parts it requires. As an example, my
Light Scooner took a lot less tine to build than a 12 ft Oughtred Acorn
Skiff. The Acorn was lapstrake ply with seven or eight strakes per side, a
fairly complicated backbone, a number of frames and knees, etc. The Scooner
was a plywood flat bottomed skiff with 4 frames and a transom. (In
fairness, the construction of the masts, gaffs, ad booms for the Scooner was
time consuming, but that isn't really part of the hull.)
I do love curvy boats, but I build simple ones. Perhaps the best marraige
of curvy and simple is Ian Oughtred's lovely "Elf"., with PCB's lght Dory a
close second.
John T
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 1:39 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: One Man Liveaboard Concept
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
>> Also, worth repeating, I argue that curvy boats
>> don't necessarily take much longer to build than
>> square boats.
>>
>> The bare hull *might* take a bit longer, but the bulk of
>> the work, [as many can attest], is the finish and
>> fit-out that is about equal for square and round.
>>
>
> Hi Bruce,
>
> The most important determinant for just how long it will take to
> build a particular hull type is skill level(experience) and this was
> demonstrated rather convincingly by Brad Story when he went about
> building the Chebacco with the various methods suggested.He concluded
> that the various methods tried(lapstrake,plywood and cold molded) all
> took about the same time and Bolger reported that the various boats
> all appeared to perform about equally,although perfect match races
> were not done.
> Of course,for the amateur builder, another factor which must be
> considered is the budget and available time for the build.Having all
> the materials on hand at the very start will certainly drive the
> project along at a good clip as apposed to the chap who buys a plank
> per month since his budget allows no more.Either way,it is important
> to maintain enthusiasm for the finished boat and not run out of steam
> before launch date,as it were,with a project that appears to have no
> apparent end.
> However,I would argue that the square boat is quicker/easier to
> fit out(the interior of the cabin,that is) then the more conventional
> round hull as all the bits require simple straigh cuts instead of the
> more involved scribing of virtually every element of the furniture in
> both the horizontal and vertical planes.
>
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Peter Lenihan,who loves curves,lots of curves but is endlessly lured
> by the sirens call of"simple straight lines"and"flat
> panels"...hmmmmm......,from along the shores of the
> St.lawrence.........
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
> horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.12.1/136 - Release Date: 10/15/2005
>
>
> However,I would argue that the square boat is quicker/easier toI understand your thoughts, though in my observation, the
> fit out(the interior of the cabin,that is) then the more conventional
> round hull as all the bits require simple straigh cuts...
'square boats' look more square on paper than in the
round. Every surface of my Micro's sides and bottom is
actually deeply curved. [Plus, I put a shallow curve in the
deck.]
I cannot recall a single piece of her fit out that wasn't either
curved, beveled, or both.
> I just noticed that you posted part of an article on the OML that wasBruce did the posting, not me.
> an update from the original SBJ article and Bolger suggested it could
> be built in plywood sheet topsides, with glued strips from the bilge
> to the keel.
The construction described is similar to the St. Vallerie design,
though it uses lapstrake, not strips. There is a pretty boat! I was
just looking at the pictures in the Woodenboat artical again (IIRC
issue #157). Of course, few exceed Devlin's level of finish.
Peter
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
Neat model! I too lusted after that one and still have the
occassional daydream about her.The biggest restraining factor for me
however has always been that single berth....Oh sure, I know it is
supposed to be a"one man live-a-board" but with my luck there will
appear a wench possessed with ethereal powers of seduction just
after the launching party who will have me forever loathing the day
I chose to build only a single berth.......and that is why another
favorite daydream boat has been WOLF TRAP(Different Boats) with that
nice big cosy double berth up forward,fully enclosed head(for the
seductress) and shallow draft,with the board up,to sneak into some
hard to get coves for some fine wailing and all night howling
sessions(also with the seductress).But she is designed for aluminium
and welding terrifies
my,hence my continued interest in the AS-29 and even RED ZINGER,in a
pinch :-)
But first I must finish building my home aka WINDERMERE before
launching myself into other fun projects.
Have you considered building your models out of wood? They would
make a fine addition to the Bolger Museum some day :-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,slowly setting up the boat for winter work........
>Concept_
>http://community.webshots.com/album/478847345hivXQV
>http://community.webshots.com/photo/478852718/478852718eTqgMG
>
> I have long been fascinated with Bolger's _One Man Liveaboard
Neat model! I too lusted after that one and still have the
occassional daydream about her.The biggest restraining factor for me
however has always been that single berth....Oh sure, I know it is
supposed to be a"one man live-a-board" but with my luck there will
appear a wench possessed with ethereal powers of seduction just
after the launching party who will have me forever loathing the day
I chose to build only a single berth.......and that is why another
favorite daydream boat has been WOLF TRAP(Different Boats) with that
nice big cosy double berth up forward,fully enclosed head(for the
seductress) and shallow draft,with the board up,to sneak into some
hard to get coves for some fine wailing and all night howling
sessions(also with the seductress).But she is designed for aluminium
and welding terrifies
my,hence my continued interest in the AS-29 and even RED ZINGER,in a
pinch :-)
But first I must finish building my home aka WINDERMERE before
launching myself into other fun projects.
Have you considered building your models out of wood? They would
make a fine addition to the Bolger Museum some day :-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,slowly setting up the boat for winter work........
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
The most important determinant for just how long it will take to
build a particular hull type is skill level(experience) and this was
demonstrated rather convincingly by Brad Story when he went about
building the Chebacco with the various methods suggested.He concluded
that the various methods tried(lapstrake,plywood and cold molded) all
took about the same time and Bolger reported that the various boats
all appeared to perform about equally,although perfect match races
were not done.
Of course,for the amateur builder, another factor which must be
considered is the budget and available time for the build.Having all
the materials on hand at the very start will certainly drive the
project along at a good clip as apposed to the chap who buys a plank
per month since his budget allows no more.Either way,it is important
to maintain enthusiasm for the finished boat and not run out of steam
before launch date,as it were,with a project that appears to have no
apparent end.
However,I would argue that the square boat is quicker/easier to
fit out(the interior of the cabin,that is) then the more conventional
round hull as all the bits require simple straigh cuts instead of the
more involved scribing of virtually every element of the furniture in
both the horizontal and vertical planes.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,who loves curves,lots of curves but is endlessly lured
by the sirens call of"simple straight lines"and"flat
panels"...hmmmmm......,from along the shores of the
St.lawrence.........
> Also, worth repeating, I argue that curvy boatsHi Bruce,
> don't necessarily take much longer to build than
> square boats.
>
> The bare hull *might* take a bit longer, but the bulk of
> the work, [as many can attest], is the finish and
> fit-out that is about equal for square and round.
>
The most important determinant for just how long it will take to
build a particular hull type is skill level(experience) and this was
demonstrated rather convincingly by Brad Story when he went about
building the Chebacco with the various methods suggested.He concluded
that the various methods tried(lapstrake,plywood and cold molded) all
took about the same time and Bolger reported that the various boats
all appeared to perform about equally,although perfect match races
were not done.
Of course,for the amateur builder, another factor which must be
considered is the budget and available time for the build.Having all
the materials on hand at the very start will certainly drive the
project along at a good clip as apposed to the chap who buys a plank
per month since his budget allows no more.Either way,it is important
to maintain enthusiasm for the finished boat and not run out of steam
before launch date,as it were,with a project that appears to have no
apparent end.
However,I would argue that the square boat is quicker/easier to
fit out(the interior of the cabin,that is) then the more conventional
round hull as all the bits require simple straigh cuts instead of the
more involved scribing of virtually every element of the furniture in
both the horizontal and vertical planes.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,who loves curves,lots of curves but is endlessly lured
by the sirens call of"simple straight lines"and"flat
panels"...hmmmmm......,from along the shores of the
St.lawrence.........
Hi Nels,
very interesting. An economical, seaworthy, live-aboard, box-hull
cruiser this size fills a gap. That's a Solent Lug rig isn't it?
Could that OML sail plan be managed to handle as safely at sea from
within the forward hatch, or at least acceptably so when reefing
etc? Could a leeboard be fitted to improve beating to weather, as
PCB suggested could be a later option for the Sharpie 55 Footer?
Graeme
very interesting. An economical, seaworthy, live-aboard, box-hull
cruiser this size fills a gap. That's a Solent Lug rig isn't it?
Could that OML sail plan be managed to handle as safely at sea from
within the forward hatch, or at least acceptably so when reefing
etc? Could a leeboard be fitted to improve beating to weather, as
PCB suggested could be a later option for the Sharpie 55 Footer?
Graeme
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@h...> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Bruce,
>
> Great representation of the OML concept!
>
> It may be of interest to some that I "grafted" the upper works of
the
> OML to the Long Micro hull and according to my "guesstimates" get
a
> little over 6 feet of headroom under ther forward area of the hard
> dodger, depending on floor lifts.
>
> I am also intrigued by the OML sail plan as an alternative to the
> Chinese Lug. Not sure if this rig has ever been actually
constructed? (
>
> (Notice the stub mast on my sketch.)
>
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger3/files/LONG%20MICRO/
>
> Cheers, Nels
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
> >
> >http://community.webshots.com/album/478847345hivXQV
> >http://community.webshots.com/photo/478852718/478852718eTqgMG
> >
> > I have long been fascinated with Bolger's _One Man Liveaboard
> Concept_
> > and here is a model [19ft x 7'6"], as you can see, getting
standing
> > headroom in such a short shape gives you quite a pot bellied
shape.
> > The sail rig is missing, a sprit rigged cat yawl.
> >
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "pvanderwaart" <pvanderwaart@y...>
wrote:
I just noticed that you posted part of an article on the OML that was
an update from the original SBJ article and Bolger suggested it could
be built in plywood sheet topsides, with glued strips from the bilge
to the keel. This may have been updated to assist those of us without
the traditional boatbuilding skills. Would be interesting to know what
the upgraded plans might cost and if they are in instant boat form -
that is with a numbered building key?
http://tinyurl.com/9fosz
Nels
wrote:
>Hi Peter,
> The hull and rig are quite similar to Merlin (nee Marina Cruiser) are
> they not. There are pictures somewhere.
>
I just noticed that you posted part of an article on the OML that was
an update from the original SBJ article and Bolger suggested it could
be built in plywood sheet topsides, with glued strips from the bilge
to the keel. This may have been updated to assist those of us without
the traditional boatbuilding skills. Would be interesting to know what
the upgraded plans might cost and if they are in instant boat form -
that is with a numbered building key?
http://tinyurl.com/9fosz
Nels
Very similar, yes. Merlin looks to be about 3 feet longer and a bit narrower.
Same hull shape and salent keel.
And, Merlin has a Dippng Lug rig, versus the OML's Cat Yawl.
Same hull shape and salent keel.
And, Merlin has a Dippng Lug rig, versus the OML's Cat Yawl.
On 10/17/05, pvanderwaart <pvanderwaart@...> wrote:
> The hull and rig are quite similar to Merlin (nee Marina Cruiser) are
> they not. There are pictures somewhere.
>
The hull and rig are quite similar to Merlin (nee Marina Cruiser) are
they not. There are pictures somewhere.
they not. There are pictures somewhere.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
Micro hull which has a long enough cockpit so one could have an
outside and inside helm location unlike the shorter Micro Navigator
design. Also the keel line is similar on both designs.
chines being directly below the gunwales make for a very stable
platform when at the dock, compared to a soft-bilged hull.
skill required to build a bent framed carvel planked hull as
specified in the article. Most people who see a square boat might
think "I can build that" whereas a carvel boat does not look that
easy to construct. Also there is a bias towards what a boat "should"
look like.
laying down, laying down the backbone and keel, making the molds,
and installing the ribbands, bending and steaming in the frames and
fairing the planking, installing floors etc. (Bud McIntosh's book -
"How to Build a Wooden Boat" is an excellent source of the skills
involved.) This method also requires specialized tools.
that it doesn't trailer well as it begins to leak if dried out and
shaken about too much. It is amazing the punishment a relatively
heavy boat is subjected to when being being trailered any distance
at highway speeds.
Therefor I consider the square boats to be the most effective use of
materials/time for an amateur wood hacker. Next in line is strip
planking and then plywood epoxy clinker. With the last method one is
actually sawing up strips of plywood and gluing them back together
again. Why not use the sheet as it comes from the factory? Unless of
course you enjoy sawing and gluing:-) Or enjoy the curvier finished
product when viewed from outside the boat.
Cheers, Nels
>To my eye that OML doghouse seemed to fit pretty well on the Long
> On 10/17/05, Nels wrote:
> > OML to the Long Micro hull
>
> Add a doghouse to a Long Micro
> and you get something very much
> like a _Jessie Cooper_, don't you think?
Micro hull which has a long enough cockpit so one could have an
outside and inside helm location unlike the shorter Micro Navigator
design. Also the keel line is similar on both designs.
>I agree that this is an advantage in a liveaboard design since the
> I don't argue that boxy boats function
> fine, better even, [especially when you
> consider usable interior space.]
chines being directly below the gunwales make for a very stable
platform when at the dock, compared to a soft-bilged hull.
>I think the potential resale value also reflects the higher level of
> While, I don't argue either that considering
> what other people think of boats, curvy boats win.
> [For intangible reasons that get reflected in resale
> value, babe magnet effect <big grin>, etc..]
skill required to build a bent framed carvel planked hull as
specified in the article. Most people who see a square boat might
think "I can build that" whereas a carvel boat does not look that
easy to construct. Also there is a bias towards what a boat "should"
look like.
>Depends on ones level of skill as well as knowledge in lofting and
> Also, worth repeating, I argue that curvy boats
> don't necessarily take much longer to build than
> square boats.
laying down, laying down the backbone and keel, making the molds,
and installing the ribbands, bending and steaming in the frames and
fairing the planking, installing floors etc. (Bud McIntosh's book -
"How to Build a Wooden Boat" is an excellent source of the skills
involved.) This method also requires specialized tools.
>The main disadvantage of a boat built in the OML fashion for me is
> The bare hull *might* take a bit longer, but the bulk of
> the work, [as many can attest], is the finish and
> fit-out that is about equal for square and round.
>
that it doesn't trailer well as it begins to leak if dried out and
shaken about too much. It is amazing the punishment a relatively
heavy boat is subjected to when being being trailered any distance
at highway speeds.
Therefor I consider the square boats to be the most effective use of
materials/time for an amateur wood hacker. Next in line is strip
planking and then plywood epoxy clinker. With the last method one is
actually sawing up strips of plywood and gluing them back together
again. Why not use the sheet as it comes from the factory? Unless of
course you enjoy sawing and gluing:-) Or enjoy the curvier finished
product when viewed from outside the boat.
Cheers, Nels
http://www.hallman.org/sbj/42/
It was first published in Small Boat Journal Vol. 42, I think.
It was first published in Small Boat Journal Vol. 42, I think.
> It would be interesting to see the internal arrangements of Bolger's
> "One Man Liveaboard Concept." Is any information available on it?
>
> Bryan Swinney
Bruce,
It would be interesting to see the internal arrangements of Bolger's
"One Man Liveaboard Concept." Is any information available on it?
Bryan Swinney
It would be interesting to see the internal arrangements of Bolger's
"One Man Liveaboard Concept." Is any information available on it?
Bryan Swinney
On 10/17/05, Nels wrote:
and you get something very much
like a _Jessie Cooper_, don't you think?
Reflecting on Bolger's writings about
the two artificially curvy tenders in the
last two MAIB's, [Neither of which
outperform a Tortoise]:
Most people *feel* better about curvy
boats versus boxy boats.
I don't argue that boxy boats function
fine, better even, [especially when you
consider usable interior space.]
While, I don't argue either that considering
what other people think of boats, curvy boats win.
[For intangible reasons that get reflected in resale
value, babe magnet effect <big grin>, etc..]
Also, worth repeating, I argue that curvy boats
don't necessarily take much longer to build than
square boats.
The bare hull *might* take a bit longer, but the bulk of
the work, [as many can attest], is the finish and
fit-out that is about equal for square and round.
> OML to the Long Micro hullAdd a doghouse to a Long Micro
and you get something very much
like a _Jessie Cooper_, don't you think?
Reflecting on Bolger's writings about
the two artificially curvy tenders in the
last two MAIB's, [Neither of which
outperform a Tortoise]:
Most people *feel* better about curvy
boats versus boxy boats.
I don't argue that boxy boats function
fine, better even, [especially when you
consider usable interior space.]
While, I don't argue either that considering
what other people think of boats, curvy boats win.
[For intangible reasons that get reflected in resale
value, babe magnet effect <big grin>, etc..]
Also, worth repeating, I argue that curvy boats
don't necessarily take much longer to build than
square boats.
The bare hull *might* take a bit longer, but the bulk of
the work, [as many can attest], is the finish and
fit-out that is about equal for square and round.
Hi Bruce,
Great representation of the OML concept!
It may be of interest to some that I "grafted" the upper works of the
OML to the Long Micro hull and according to my "guesstimates" get a
little over 6 feet of headroom under ther forward area of the hard
dodger, depending on floor lifts.
I am also intrigued by the OML sail plan as an alternative to the
Chinese Lug. Not sure if this rig has ever been actually constructed? (
(Notice the stub mast on my sketch.)
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger3/files/LONG%20MICRO/
Cheers, Nels
Great representation of the OML concept!
It may be of interest to some that I "grafted" the upper works of the
OML to the Long Micro hull and according to my "guesstimates" get a
little over 6 feet of headroom under ther forward area of the hard
dodger, depending on floor lifts.
I am also intrigued by the OML sail plan as an alternative to the
Chinese Lug. Not sure if this rig has ever been actually constructed? (
(Notice the stub mast on my sketch.)
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger3/files/LONG%20MICRO/
Cheers, Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
>
>http://community.webshots.com/album/478847345hivXQV
>http://community.webshots.com/photo/478852718/478852718eTqgMG
>
> I have long been fascinated with Bolger's _One Man Liveaboard
Concept_
> and here is a model [19ft x 7'6"], as you can see, getting standing
> headroom in such a short shape gives you quite a pot bellied shape.
> The sail rig is missing, a sprit rigged cat yawl.
>
http://community.webshots.com/album/478847345hivXQV
http://community.webshots.com/photo/478852718/478852718eTqgMG
I have long been fascinated with Bolger's _One Man Liveaboard Concept_
and here is a model [19ft x 7'6"], as you can see, getting standing
headroom in such a short shape gives you quite a pot bellied shape.
The sail rig is missing, a sprit rigged cat yawl.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/478852718/478852718eTqgMG
I have long been fascinated with Bolger's _One Man Liveaboard Concept_
and here is a model [19ft x 7'6"], as you can see, getting standing
headroom in such a short shape gives you quite a pot bellied shape.
The sail rig is missing, a sprit rigged cat yawl.