Re: lead mold
That's the most interesting part, Peter. The lead wings are mounted
on
a hollow steel fin. The middle of the fin is actually open, and a
control bar runs down the middle to the aft part of the wings and
controls their angle. The wings, which pivot on a second bar through
their forward section, actually remain parallel to the bottom as the
fin retracts. In the full up position, the wings will rest against
the
bottom. Phil says Susanne came up with the linkage, geometry and
design.
My scanner isn't big enough to do the whole blueprint, but I have
scanned in most of the keel details, as well as a new stern
arrangement, with twin shoal draft rudders.... I may be able to get
it
posted tomorrow night.
BTW, thanks for all the mold hints and suggestions so far. They're a
major help. I'm leaning toward Peter Lenihan's suggestion for using
wood dowels; copper pipe sound interesting, but I'm already dealing
with lead, mild steel and stainless steel and am reluctant to
introduce a fourth metal...
Gary Blankenship
Tallahassee, FL
on
a hollow steel fin. The middle of the fin is actually open, and a
control bar runs down the middle to the aft part of the wings and
controls their angle. The wings, which pivot on a second bar through
their forward section, actually remain parallel to the bottom as the
fin retracts. In the full up position, the wings will rest against
the
bottom. Phil says Susanne came up with the linkage, geometry and
design.
My scanner isn't big enough to do the whole blueprint, but I have
scanned in most of the keel details, as well as a new stern
arrangement, with twin shoal draft rudders.... I may be able to get
it
posted tomorrow night.
BTW, thanks for all the mold hints and suggestions so far. They're a
major help. I'm leaning toward Peter Lenihan's suggestion for using
wood dowels; copper pipe sound interesting, but I'm already dealing
with lead, mild steel and stainless steel and am reluctant to
introduce a fourth metal...
Gary Blankenship
Tallahassee, FL
> > As part of the redesign of my 30-footer, Phil and Susanne havemay
> drawn
> > up a winged centerboard.
> > If I can figure out how to do it, the keel/centerboard drawing
> becenterboard
> > posted in the vault.
>
> Please do post it. I'm trying to figure out how a winged
> can be pivoted while keeping the wings at an acceptable angle tothe
> water flow.
>
> Peter
> As part of the redesign of my 30-footer, Phil and Susanne havedrawn
> up a winged centerboard.be
> If I can figure out how to do it, the keel/centerboard drasing may
> posted in the vault.Please do post it. I'm trying to figure out how a winged centerboard
can be pivoted while keeping the wings at an acceptable angle to the
water flow.
Peter
Gary,
Based on my own experience pouring a lead keel for my MICRO,3/4
inch ply is thick enough for your mold provided that you brace it on
the outside with some 2 X 4's.For my joints,simple BONDO Auto body
filler was used and the two halves were held together by nothing more
then closely spaced screws.Of course,you must first ensure that the
mating surfaces of the two halves are perfectly flat and smooth
before assembling the mold.The entire insides of the mold were also
liberally coated with water-glass(sodium silicate).
Regarding your steel rods,I used wooden dowels sized just a wee
bit bigger then my keel bolts and had these secured inside the mold
in exactly the planned position of the real keel bolts.Once the lead
had cooled,it was a simple matter to run an auger down through the
charred dowels to clean out the nice round holes in the lead.
For some pictures of what I am attempting to explain,kindly go to
the DUCKWORKS MAGAZINE site and click on the articles section.Scroll
down until you come to the article called,pouring a MICRO keel.
Best of luck and be careful!
Peter Lenihan
Montréal,Québec
Based on my own experience pouring a lead keel for my MICRO,3/4
inch ply is thick enough for your mold provided that you brace it on
the outside with some 2 X 4's.For my joints,simple BONDO Auto body
filler was used and the two halves were held together by nothing more
then closely spaced screws.Of course,you must first ensure that the
mating surfaces of the two halves are perfectly flat and smooth
before assembling the mold.The entire insides of the mold were also
liberally coated with water-glass(sodium silicate).
Regarding your steel rods,I used wooden dowels sized just a wee
bit bigger then my keel bolts and had these secured inside the mold
in exactly the planned position of the real keel bolts.Once the lead
had cooled,it was a simple matter to run an auger down through the
charred dowels to clean out the nice round holes in the lead.
For some pictures of what I am attempting to explain,kindly go to
the DUCKWORKS MAGAZINE site and click on the articles section.Scroll
down until you come to the article called,pouring a MICRO keel.
Best of luck and be careful!
Peter Lenihan
Montréal,Québec
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, gbship@i... wrote:
> As part of the redesign of my 30-footer, Phil and Susanne have
drawn
> up a winged centerboard. I'm working on the mold for the lead wings
> and have a couple technical questions. The mold (which must hold
> 1,000 pounds) is being built out of plywood (minimum 3/4 inch and
> perhaps thicker) and will be implanted in the the gound for extra
> support. It's about 3.5 inches deep at the deepest, and 3 feet long
> by 2 feet wide. What sealant should be used at the joints to
prevent
> the lead from running out any cracks? Will epoxy vaporize in the
> heat? Will 3M 2100 work? A polyurethane glue?
>
> Secondly, a couple of stainless steel bars have to be cast into the
> lead so they are precisely placed. That means where they run
through
> the mold in a couple places, there will have to be a sealant to
> ensure there's no lead leakage. Thoughts? But once the lead cools,
> the bars have to be driven out, so the sealant can't lock them in
> place. Right now, we think that normal shrinkage of the lead will
> make it fairly easy to remove the bars, but if anyone has
> thoughs/suggestions, I'd appreciate them. This is a job I only want
> to do once....
>
> If I can figure out how to do it, the keel/centerboard drasing may
be
> posted in the vault. It's a beaut. This is replacing the fixed keel
> on my boat, for greater convenience in the Gulf of Mexico. (I'm
also
> getting a higher and longer cabin, and a fold-down mast...)
>
> Gary Blankenship
As part of the redesign of my 30-footer, Phil and Susanne have drawn
up a winged centerboard. I'm working on the mold for the lead wings
and have a couple technical questions. The mold (which must hold
1,000 pounds) is being built out of plywood (minimum 3/4 inch and
perhaps thicker) and will be implanted in the the gound for extra
support. It's about 3.5 inches deep at the deepest, and 3 feet long
by 2 feet wide. What sealant should be used at the joints to prevent
the lead from running out any cracks? Will epoxy vaporize in the
heat? Will 3M 2100 work? A polyurethane glue?
Secondly, a couple of stainless steel bars have to be cast into the
lead so they are precisely placed. That means where they run through
the mold in a couple places, there will have to be a sealant to
ensure there's no lead leakage. Thoughts? But once the lead cools,
the bars have to be driven out, so the sealant can't lock them in
place. Right now, we think that normal shrinkage of the lead will
make it fairly easy to remove the bars, but if anyone has
thoughs/suggestions, I'd appreciate them. This is a job I only want
to do once....
If I can figure out how to do it, the keel/centerboard drasing may be
posted in the vault. It's a beaut. This is replacing the fixed keel
on my boat, for greater convenience in the Gulf of Mexico. (I'm also
getting a higher and longer cabin, and a fold-down mast...)
Gary Blankenship
up a winged centerboard. I'm working on the mold for the lead wings
and have a couple technical questions. The mold (which must hold
1,000 pounds) is being built out of plywood (minimum 3/4 inch and
perhaps thicker) and will be implanted in the the gound for extra
support. It's about 3.5 inches deep at the deepest, and 3 feet long
by 2 feet wide. What sealant should be used at the joints to prevent
the lead from running out any cracks? Will epoxy vaporize in the
heat? Will 3M 2100 work? A polyurethane glue?
Secondly, a couple of stainless steel bars have to be cast into the
lead so they are precisely placed. That means where they run through
the mold in a couple places, there will have to be a sealant to
ensure there's no lead leakage. Thoughts? But once the lead cools,
the bars have to be driven out, so the sealant can't lock them in
place. Right now, we think that normal shrinkage of the lead will
make it fairly easy to remove the bars, but if anyone has
thoughs/suggestions, I'd appreciate them. This is a job I only want
to do once....
If I can figure out how to do it, the keel/centerboard drasing may be
posted in the vault. It's a beaut. This is replacing the fixed keel
on my boat, for greater convenience in the Gulf of Mexico. (I'm also
getting a higher and longer cabin, and a fold-down mast...)
Gary Blankenship