[bolger] Re: Cutting out plywood panels with a circular saw
Harold Payson first described cutting plywood panels for boats with a
circular saw in his book Instant Boats then again in Build the New
Instant Boats. These books are worth reading for their folksy boat
building wisdom in addition to being the definitive text on building
Bolgers Instant Boats (always disliked that term). They are
available at your library; from Payson himself and I think Build the
New is still in print form Marine Publishing.
I have cut panels with a 7 ¼, 5 ½ and a really cool 3 ½ circular
saw. They all worked, but I like my old 5 ½ Black and Decker so much I
have literally worn it out. Use a cheep carbide blade, not one of the
thin kerf jobs. The set of the blades teeth is what allows the saw to
cut a shallow curve without binding, and cheep blades have wider teeth
with more set. Cut at least 1/8 oversize then screw or clamp matching
panels together and trim them together to the line.
There is a limit to how sharp a curve you can cut this way. The reason
it works on boat panels is they usually have very shallow curves. It
also works better the thinner the plywood. ½ is about the limit.
To see the blade I hold the saw in my left hand and hold the blade
guard open with my thumb. Of course, this puts your face inline with
the saws discharge chute, so wear protective glasses.
The benefits of using a circular saw to cut panels are speed and more
important, accuracy. I find it much easier to stay close to the cut
line with a circular saw than with a jig saw.
circular saw in his book Instant Boats then again in Build the New
Instant Boats. These books are worth reading for their folksy boat
building wisdom in addition to being the definitive text on building
Bolgers Instant Boats (always disliked that term). They are
available at your library; from Payson himself and I think Build the
New is still in print form Marine Publishing.
I have cut panels with a 7 ¼, 5 ½ and a really cool 3 ½ circular
saw. They all worked, but I like my old 5 ½ Black and Decker so much I
have literally worn it out. Use a cheep carbide blade, not one of the
thin kerf jobs. The set of the blades teeth is what allows the saw to
cut a shallow curve without binding, and cheep blades have wider teeth
with more set. Cut at least 1/8 oversize then screw or clamp matching
panels together and trim them together to the line.
There is a limit to how sharp a curve you can cut this way. The reason
it works on boat panels is they usually have very shallow curves. It
also works better the thinner the plywood. ½ is about the limit.
To see the blade I hold the saw in my left hand and hold the blade
guard open with my thumb. Of course, this puts your face inline with
the saws discharge chute, so wear protective glasses.
The benefits of using a circular saw to cut panels are speed and more
important, accuracy. I find it much easier to stay close to the cut
line with a circular saw than with a jig saw.
Tom - Although I just purchased a 7-1/4" circular saw for the beveled
bulkheads of my Micro, I think I'll continue to use my jig saw to cut
the plywood panels. It's much lighter, I can see the blade very well,
and in any case one must shave the edges to trim them exactly. Don't
know yet for sure though: I'll give the circular saw a try because I
think it's going to be much faster than the jigsaw. It seems that with
my circular saw I can see the blase reasonably well... Best regards -
Pippo
thomas.behrend-@...wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=468
bulkheads of my Micro, I think I'll continue to use my jig saw to cut
the plywood panels. It's much lighter, I can see the blade very well,
and in any case one must shave the edges to trim them exactly. Don't
know yet for sure though: I'll give the circular saw a try because I
think it's going to be much faster than the jigsaw. It seems that with
my circular saw I can see the blase reasonably well... Best regards -
Pippo
thomas.behrend-@...wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=468
>before, although
>
> Hi All:
>
> Please excuse me if this question has come up 50 zillion times
> I've had no luck in finding answers using dejanews or e-group's ownsearch
> engine.I know that
>
> Simply put, how do I cut out my plywood panels using a circular saw?
> I should set the depth of the blade to just a bit over the thicknessof the
> plywood, and I know that this method is good for long, smooth curvesbut not for
> tight radii (sabersaw for those). My problem is that I just can'tsee the blade
> and the cut well enough to see where I'm going (then again, once Idrink enough
> to get my hands to stop shaking, I can't see all that well anyways!).Any
> suggestions?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tom B.
>
>
Carbide, baby, carbide...
At 03:57 PM 10/7/1999 EDT, you wrote:
At 03:57 PM 10/7/1999 EDT, you wrote:
>Tom,string
>
>I like the idea of renting a smaller circular saw, but then that special
>blade from Dave will come in handy on other things for years if you can keep
>it away from that nail!
>
>I once read something on this group about using a router attached to a
>to cut perfect holes. Fix the string at center, and around you go. Maybeeasy
>this would work with a circular saw, however I am sure it wouldn't be as
>as a router.
>
>This is not my idea, so I get no credit, just passing it along.
>
>Chuck.
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
>http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
>
>
Tom,
I like the idea of renting a smaller circular saw, but then that special
blade from Dave will come in handy on other things for years if you can keep
it away from that nail!
I once read something on this group about using a router attached to a string
to cut perfect holes. Fix the string at center, and around you go. Maybe
this would work with a circular saw, however I am sure it wouldn't be as easy
as a router.
This is not my idea, so I get no credit, just passing it along.
Chuck.
I like the idea of renting a smaller circular saw, but then that special
blade from Dave will come in handy on other things for years if you can keep
it away from that nail!
I once read something on this group about using a router attached to a string
to cut perfect holes. Fix the string at center, and around you go. Maybe
this would work with a circular saw, however I am sure it wouldn't be as easy
as a router.
This is not my idea, so I get no credit, just passing it along.
Chuck.
Before spending the money on a new saw or expensive blades, do as I did,
find a rental shop and rent a small 4" or 5" skill-saw. They are much
easier to handle and to see the cut line. The blade is narrow and will
follow tighter curves. I think it cost me $14.00 for the day.
find a rental shop and rent a small 4" or 5" skill-saw. They are much
easier to handle and to see the cut line. The blade is narrow and will
follow tighter curves. I think it cost me $14.00 for the day.
>Try a really decent carbide blade and see if you like that any better.Thanks for the advice, I'm seriously considering sending some money off to Dave
Carnell fo rone of his fancy thin-kerf carbide blades (watch me break it within
20 seconds trying to saw through a nail). Nevertheless, my problem is that I
simply can't see the blade. I'm a klutz, I'll admit (which is why I don't fancy
taking off blade guards or anything like that), but I seem to remeber somebody
writing something about getting a left-handed skill-saw so you can sight down it
better, or something like that. My best efforts with deja-view and egroups
search engine haven't turned up the post. Does anybody have any suggestions for
something as simple as "if you stand like this, and look over there, you'll be
able to see and control the blade better"? Anyway, I'm gonna try again with a
decent blade, as suggested by Gerry.
Thanks!
Tom
thomas.behrendt@...wrote:
a snakelight when I cut out panels.
Also, I used to watch the blade on the circular saw, and on the jig saw. What I've
found is that the tolerances of boat building are loose enough that I can just watch
the guide marks on the saws and get within 1/8 inch of the line. Less sawdust in the
face too.
For those cuts that have to be perfectly exact, and curved so I can't use a saw
guide, I go cut just a bit bigger and sand it down to the line.
> tight radii (sabersaw for those). My problem is that I just can't see the bladeAdd photons. Seriously. I have over 500 watts of light in my shop, and I still wear
> and the cut well enough to see where I'm going (then again, once I drink enough
> to get my hands to stop shaking, I can't see all that well anyways!). Any
> suggestions?
>
a snakelight when I cut out panels.
Also, I used to watch the blade on the circular saw, and on the jig saw. What I've
found is that the tolerances of boat building are loose enough that I can just watch
the guide marks on the saws and get within 1/8 inch of the line. Less sawdust in the
face too.
For those cuts that have to be perfectly exact, and curved so I can't use a saw
guide, I go cut just a bit bigger and sand it down to the line.
Try a really decent carbide blade and see if you like that any better.
At 09:32 AM 10/7/1999 -0400, you wrote:
At 09:32 AM 10/7/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>although
>
>Hi All:
>
>Please excuse me if this question has come up 50 zillion times before,
>I've had no luck in finding answers using dejanews or e-group's own searchknow that
>engine.
>
>Simply put, how do I cut out my plywood panels using a circular saw? I
>I should set the depth of the blade to just a bit over the thickness of thenot for
>plywood, and I know that this method is good for long, smooth curves but
>tight radii (sabersaw for those). My problem is that I just can't see theblade
>and the cut well enough to see where I'm going (then again, once I drinkenough
>to get my hands to stop shaking, I can't see all that well anyways!). Any
>suggestions?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Tom B.
>
>
>
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>
>eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
>http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
>
>
Hi All:
Please excuse me if this question has come up 50 zillion times before, although
I've had no luck in finding answers using dejanews or e-group's own search
engine.
Simply put, how do I cut out my plywood panels using a circular saw? I know that
I should set the depth of the blade to just a bit over the thickness of the
plywood, and I know that this method is good for long, smooth curves but not for
tight radii (sabersaw for those). My problem is that I just can't see the blade
and the cut well enough to see where I'm going (then again, once I drink enough
to get my hands to stop shaking, I can't see all that well anyways!). Any
suggestions?
Thanks!
Tom B.
Please excuse me if this question has come up 50 zillion times before, although
I've had no luck in finding answers using dejanews or e-group's own search
engine.
Simply put, how do I cut out my plywood panels using a circular saw? I know that
I should set the depth of the blade to just a bit over the thickness of the
plywood, and I know that this method is good for long, smooth curves but not for
tight radii (sabersaw for those). My problem is that I just can't see the blade
and the cut well enough to see where I'm going (then again, once I drink enough
to get my hands to stop shaking, I can't see all that well anyways!). Any
suggestions?
Thanks!
Tom B.