Re: fast brick detail
Hi Derek,
head for either rowing or sailing, which will keep the CLR forward in
any case. It will be difficult to attain this trim when single-
handed in my 12-footer, since the tiller length is restricted by its
folding design.
wouldn't count my sailing skill as one of those conditions.
Jon Kolb
http://www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
> Interesting. The longer hulls have a CLR farther aft, but since theThe plans note that the boat is supposed to be trimmed down by the
> sail rig isn't any further back I'd surmise that PB&F expect the
> balance to be largely unchanged. By eye [looking at the MAIB
> pictures] it doesn't appear that the aggregate CLR on the long hull
> will be more than a few inches aft of that of the short hull.
head for either rowing or sailing, which will keep the CLR forward in
any case. It will be difficult to attain this trim when single-
handed in my 12-footer, since the tiller length is restricted by its
folding design.
> That's a downwind rig anyway, is it not? :)PF&F state that it might get to windward in some conditions. I
wouldn't count my sailing skill as one of those conditions.
Jon Kolb
http://www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
Hi Fritz,
versions. I questioned PB&F about the skids on the bottom of the hull,
and Phil responded that they should be lengthened with any increase in
the hull length, but in the case of the 12-footer could probably just
go to 6' instead of the 7+' they would be otherwise.
Some other tips:
1) Buy your gas tanks and measure them before you size the horizontal
top of the stern locker. I measured from the plans and found that the
locker top should be a little larger longitudinally than what I built.
I can jam the gas tanks into the space, but it's a very tight fit. The
tanks specified in the building key are 9" wide.
2) It's easier to install the foam in the bottom of the hull first,
rather than the sides as in the building key. This is because you'd
have to notch the foam around the chine log if you install the side
foam first. I laid the foam on the bottom first, then laid the 1/8"
skin on top of it, and that made installing the side foam simple.
3) The foam may not be exactly the thickness you expect!
4) There are a few more minor deviations from the plans on my website,
but you probably already saw these.
Jon Kolb
http://www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
> I pose this question to Jon Kolb mostly but would appreciate anyif
> response. I have begun my Fast Brick construction and have the
> bottom/outside almost done. Bolger shows the leeboard reinforcement
> position for the basic 8' hull. I am building a 10' version and I
> believe Jon's is 12'. Bolger doesn't mention it but I was wondering
> the leeboard position should be farther aft for longer boats?Probably
> Phil would have noted a different placement if it were required but IThe leeboard and oarlock positions stay the same on the longer
> thought I would ask.
versions. I questioned PB&F about the skids on the bottom of the hull,
and Phil responded that they should be lengthened with any increase in
the hull length, but in the case of the 12-footer could probably just
go to 6' instead of the 7+' they would be otherwise.
Some other tips:
1) Buy your gas tanks and measure them before you size the horizontal
top of the stern locker. I measured from the plans and found that the
locker top should be a little larger longitudinally than what I built.
I can jam the gas tanks into the space, but it's a very tight fit. The
tanks specified in the building key are 9" wide.
2) It's easier to install the foam in the bottom of the hull first,
rather than the sides as in the building key. This is because you'd
have to notch the foam around the chine log if you install the side
foam first. I laid the foam on the bottom first, then laid the 1/8"
skin on top of it, and that made installing the side foam simple.
3) The foam may not be exactly the thickness you expect!
4) There are a few more minor deviations from the plans on my website,
but you probably already saw these.
Jon Kolb
http://www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
Hi Fritz
Interesting. The longer hulls have a CLR farther aft, but since the
sail rig isn't any further back I'd surmise that PB&F expect the
balance to be largely unchanged. By eye [looking at the MAIB
pictures] it doesn't appear that the aggregate CLR on the long hull
will be more than a few inches aft of that of the short hull.
That's a downwind rig anyway, is it not? :)
cheers
Derek
Interesting. The longer hulls have a CLR farther aft, but since the
sail rig isn't any further back I'd surmise that PB&F expect the
balance to be largely unchanged. By eye [looking at the MAIB
pictures] it doesn't appear that the aggregate CLR on the long hull
will be more than a few inches aft of that of the short hull.
That's a downwind rig anyway, is it not? :)
cheers
Derek
I pose this question to Jon Kolb mostly but would appreciate any
response. I have begun my Fast Brick construction and have the
bottom/outside almost done. Bolger shows the leeboard reinforcement
position for the basic 8' hull. I am building a 10' version and I
believe Jon's is 12'. Bolger doesn't mention it but I was wondering if
the leeboard position should be farther aft for longer boats? Probably
Phil would have noted a different placement if it were required but I
thought I would ask.
fritz
response. I have begun my Fast Brick construction and have the
bottom/outside almost done. Bolger shows the leeboard reinforcement
position for the basic 8' hull. I am building a 10' version and I
believe Jon's is 12'. Bolger doesn't mention it but I was wondering if
the leeboard position should be farther aft for longer boats? Probably
Phil would have noted a different placement if it were required but I
thought I would ask.
fritz