WINDERMERE progress photos

A 2 1/2" drywall screw and a pair of plyers will get those pesky corks from bottles of California whites. Don't know if it works on Canadian reds..

Some tough sandpaper you got there...

BM's M 33/34, thanks. Now I remember.

The helm on Windermere sounds perfect...

My beam project came out perfect. It's for a boat of course. Plywood sailboat. Motorsailer really. Trailerable, shoal draft, 20' LOA, 8' beam. Boxy, but not Bolger, so pics will be posted eleswhere.

Thanks,
Rick




Hi Rick!
Thanks for the kind words! Yes,there are many hours of toil
(which is actually what I tell all my friends) but truth be
told,those are really many hours of some of the funnest toils I've
ever had.Of course,being nothing more then a boat-bum at heart,there
are also many hours of simple,mindless, gazing about and sipping
from goblettes various.Surely you can't count that as toil unless
you include hauling the cork up through the neck of the bottle
without a proper cork screw.I'm working on a patent for this device
as we speak :-)

The epoxy budget(ha!) long ago was dispatched into the ether
since it served no meaningful purpose other then to make me feel sad
for not buying stock in Dow Chemicals. Sanding,on the other hand,is
remarkably"cheap" since the paper I am using just doesn't want to
quit.The 40 weight takes hours to get down to 80 weight and that in
turn takes hours more before it reaches 100 weight.Imagine that,you
only need to buy one weight of paper for all your eventual finishing
needs:-) An added bonus with sanding,especially hand sanding,is that
it is a close cousin to all that mindless gazing refered to
above.You might say I've grown accustomed to this particular state
of mind..........



>
> Question 1
> I know we discussed this many months (years?) ago, but my menory
fails and I'm too lazy to search the archives. What primer / finish
paint have you decided to use?



For all outside surfaces,I use Benjamin Moores' M33/M34 polyamide
epoxy primer.This same stuff is also used everywhere bellow the
cabin sole ie;the entire bilge.Comes in two colours:Rogue Red and
Gay Gray
For outside colours,it will also be a Benjamin Moore product
aliphatic(sp) two part paint.Tough as bullets and colour fast.The
inside will see Sicos' Polyprep3 as base primer and finish coats
probable a nice thick oil based house paint.


> Question 2
> How high above the cabin sole is the helm station floor? From what
I can tell it looks quite a bit elevated. Is it? If so, did Bolger
design steps to get up or are you relying on the energy of your
youthful "spring in your step" to climb up there? Also, is there
headroom to stand behind the helm or do you drive standing on the
cabin sole next to the helm?


Cabin headroom throughout is a generous 6'6+,depending on where you
are standing.The helm station is on a slightly raised platform
requiring about a 7" step up(or down if you're just coming in
through the cabin to use the head ;-) )One can either stand or sit
at the helm station.Lots of room either way!Bellow the helm sole,is
the
forward battery storage hold for six large deep cycle batteries.The
other six are located against the aft bulkhead of the stateroom.This
considerable charge of batteries serves to give one impressive
autonomy and is considered critical to Windermeres' overall stability
(ballast/displacement ratio).The entire layout is done with great
consideration from our Hero for it effectively permits one to get
around anywhere in the boat on ones hands and knees, a potentially
useful feature,especially after a visit from Le Baron de Kingston:-)
>
> Heater thoughts.
>

Yup....combustion is definitely out of the question! Electric is the
way to go for me since it is already included in my rental fee for
my space and,based on pole results,can offer trouble free safe
heat.....or so I understand.It is the flaming red hot toaster
element in most heaters that does scare me thus my interest in the
oil filled versions.

So,how did those beams you were building come out for you ?
Pictures/story behind them perhaps :-)

All the best!

Sincerely,

Peter Lenihan,eternally jealous of those folks living in mild gentle
climates......RATS!......from along the shores of you know where :-)








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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Nels is correct. Then you also want to make sure that
your house's pannel and service is adequate for the
additional demand.

This sort of seems like an endless and potentially
expensive loop, but new pannels and adequate service
are less expensive than burning up either the boat and
shed or the house or the house, the boat and the shed.
(Don't park in the garage. Keep some sleeping bags in
the car...)

Phil Smith

--- Nels <arvent@...> wrote:

> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Lewis E. Gordon"
> <l_gordon_nica@y...> wrote:
> >
> > Peter,
> I always enjoy your posts
> > for the humor that must help you keep your sanity
> in such a large
> > building project.
>
> Humor? What humor? Sanity? What sanity?
> >
> > Paul made a good point in an earlier reply about
> extension cords.
> > Unfortunately, thickness does not always equal
> sufficient wire
> gauge!
> > I have seen extension cords as thick as my thumb
> with puny 14 ga.
> > wire! You have to look closely. In my shop I have
> two 50 foot, 10
> ga.,
> > four conductor cords surplused from a large
> computer de-
> installation
> > years ago. They sure are handy!
>
> I would also like to add, that I agree it will take
> more than one
> oil-filled radiator to heat that much volume and
> also one should
> consider that there is still power required for the
> lights and tool
> usage. One would require two heavy duty extension
> cords.
>
> Therefor if one is going to get serious it might be
> cheaper and far
> safer to install a subpanel directly from the main
> panel of the
> building from where you are getting your power
> supply. A 60 amp sub-
> panel would use shielded 6/3 cable which is far
> superior and cheaper
> than two extension cords. (You have to bury it at
> least 18" though.)
>
> It would be equivalent to running power to a one-car
> garage.
>
>
http://ths.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/wiring/2005015726007600.html
>
> Nels
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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--------------------------------------------------------------------~->
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming,
> respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed,
> thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts,
> and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:
>bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
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>bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Lewis E. Gordon"
<l_gordon_nica@y...> wrote:
>
> Peter,
I always enjoy your posts
> for the humor that must help you keep your sanity in such a large
> building project.

Humor? What humor? Sanity? What sanity?
>
> Paul made a good point in an earlier reply about extension cords.
> Unfortunately, thickness does not always equal sufficient wire
gauge!
> I have seen extension cords as thick as my thumb with puny 14 ga.
> wire! You have to look closely. In my shop I have two 50 foot, 10
ga.,
> four conductor cords surplused from a large computer de-
installation
> years ago. They sure are handy!

I would also like to add, that I agree it will take more than one
oil-filled radiator to heat that much volume and also one should
consider that there is still power required for the lights and tool
usage. One would require two heavy duty extension cords.

Therefor if one is going to get serious it might be cheaper and far
safer to install a subpanel directly from the main panel of the
building from where you are getting your power supply. A 60 amp sub-
panel would use shielded 6/3 cable which is far superior and cheaper
than two extension cords. (You have to bury it at least 18" though.)

It would be equivalent to running power to a one-car garage.

http://ths.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/wiring/2005015726007600.html

Nels
Peter,

Thanks for the kind offer of a snowscape postcard, but I really don't
miss that wet white stuff! Just post a photo this winter of the snow
half way up your boat building shed! Than again, this is supposed to
be a warm winter in North America. I guess all these hurricane heat
pumps have shifted our heat to the north. I always enjoy your posts
for the humor that must help you keep your sanity is such a large
building project.

Paul made a good point in an earlier reply about extension cords.
Unfortunately, thickness does not always equal sufficient wire gauge!
I have seen extension cords as thick as my thumb with puny 14 ga.
wire! You have to look closely. In my shop I have two 50 foot, 10 ga.,
four conductor cords surplused from a large computer de-installation
years ago. They sure are handy!

Cheers, and looking forward to more progress photos. We all hope to
see some soon of Windmere in the water.

Lewis,
On the shores of Lake Nicaragua looking out the window on a beautiful
day with a gentle wind blowing in off the lake.


--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@h...> wrote:
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Lewis E. Gordon"
> <l_gordon_nica@y...> wrote:
> >When in the States, we used one of the oil filled
> > radiator heaters for twenty years with great success. Of course
> that
> > was in Tennessee and North Carolina where the winters were not too
> > bad. Ours had a "tip over" switch (which worked) and was not too
> bad
> > on electricity usage on the low setting (which I think was about
> 550
> > watts). I would trust one of these for 16 hours of unattended
> usage.
> >
> > Lewis
>
> Thanks Lewis! That's exactly what I was hoping to hear,solid
> experience with a reliable and SAFE heater. I think I'm just about
> sold on them now. And yes,come to think about it,if I were to use
> any type of combustable fuel,no matter how safe,I will have a high
> moisture condensation problem once the really cold weather gets here.
> Want me to send you a post-card with a lovely picture of deep snow
> on it.....just so you don't get too spoiled with all that warm
> weather down your way? :-)
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Peter Lenihan
>
Since you really only need to warm the boat while the
epoxy is being applied, I can imagine an open bottom
box that fits over the boat. I'd make the box out of
thick rigid foam insulation, probably in two or more
parts, so I could keep it knocked down and out of the
way when I was attempting to get work done. An
electric heater or two under the boat and the box
could keep everything in the box nice and toasty.

This would allow you to experiment with Robb White's
theory of hot wood in a cool environment drawing the
expoxy into the wood's pores for deeper penetration.
Warm the structure to be epoxied up in it's little
hard sided tent. Mix the epoxy, which you could keep
warm in a discarded refrigerator with a light bulb
inside it. Knock down the warming structure. Apply the
goop to the warm/hot wood or cloth on wood. Let the
wood cool down and draw the epoxy into it's little
pores.

Of course if you are building a big boat it might be
difficult to construct the structure. However if you
are building the boat pannel by pannel in Bolger
approved fashion, the structure wouldn't have to be
very tall. It wouldn't necessarily have to extend all
the way to the floor. Curtains could keep out the
drafts and physics can keep the heat on the work area.

If it worked really well on the pannels you could
extend the sides to join the pannels together or slack
off until warm weather...

Just a thought.

Phil Smith
Hi Peter,

> I've posted my latest set of progress photos,with captions,
> over in the Bolger 4 files section here:
...snip...

Wow! Nice work, indeed. How many miles of fillets that must be!

> If anyone knows of a good,reliable,safe and portable electric
> heater which can be left un-attended for 16 hour stretches....I
> would really appreciate hearing from you. As it is now, I'm
> considering one of those portable oil-filled electric heaters that
> resemble the old water pipe radiators of lore...........

We use one of these oil radiator types in our basement. Can't remember
the brand, but we've used it for hours and hours on end with no
troubles over perhaps 7 or 8 years now.

Jon Kolb
http://www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
Peter,

I've had several of those oil-filled electric radiators that I've used in my
basement wood shop, garage, and most importantly, inside my micro last
winter for some interior work. They work great and are very safe, though you
may need 2 or 3 for a space the size of the interior of your boat. If there
is a weak point/high risk area it may be the extension cord you use to run
it - I noticed on one occasion when I had one running on 'high' (1500W)
while plugged into a lighter-duty cord (shop quality, but not the real thick
ones) that the area around the socket, and the wire right nearby, got too
hot to touch. So if you're real concerned about safety -and who wouldn't be
after so much work and such a beautiful product starting to show itself-
invest in some high-grade wires to hook it up.

Bought the lumber for my hoop-shed Saturday; hope to use the upcoming long
weekend to get a snowproof (this time!) boatshed erected so I can finish up
my Micro before next June!

Paul Lefebvre

-----Original Message-----
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
Peter Lenihan
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 4:18 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Latest WINDERMERE progress photos


--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@h...> wrote:
> I really like the idea of an electric blanket. That way if you
> indulge in one too many goblets of port just crawl under the blanket
> and you can dream of tropical sand beaches while at the same time
> helping your epoxy cure:-)
>
> Nels


Only a real prairre pirate,accustomed to the undulating waves of wheat
from Canadas' sub-tropical zone would ever consider crawling into bed
with a few bits of wood and some un-cured epoxy.The thought of waking
with a substantial and now permanent"woody" appended to ones anatomy
is a...er....rather scary at best,no matter how giddy it makes the
ladies or however much they may be seen to fall to their knees,arms
out-stretched,gazing toward the ceiling and repeating in a loud
voice,"Thank you Jesus!Thank you Jesus!My prayers have been answered!"

Beyond that and FYI,there is no such animal as"too-many-goblets-of-
port" however there does exist in the more obscure annals of medical
science such a creature as"emptybottleitis"(pronounced "crying shame")
and this can lead to a wide range of behaviors,least of which is
running stark neked down mainstreet screaming like a banshee for ones
mommy as we try to locate the nearest clinic(pronounced"liquore
store") to re-new our prescription(pronounced"bottle").All reasonable
means should be employed to avoid contracting this miserable
affliction.See Big Bad Bruce,AKA Le Baron de Kingston for appropriate
actions regarding prevention/remedy.

Just trying to be helpful :-)

Sincerely,

Peter Lenihan,with anti-bodies galore and lots of medicine in the wine
cellar.....OOOPS!.....I mean medicine cabinet :-)







Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups Links
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@h...> wrote:
> I really like the idea of an electric blanket. That way if you
> indulge in one too many goblets of port just crawl under the blanket
> and you can dream of tropical sand beaches while at the same time
> helping your epoxy cure:-)
>
> Nels


Only a real prairre pirate,accustomed to the undulating waves of wheat
from Canadas' sub-tropical zone would ever consider crawling into bed
with a few bits of wood and some un-cured epoxy.The thought of waking
with a substantial and now permanent"woody" appended to ones anatomy
is a...er....rather scary at best,no matter how giddy it makes the
ladies or however much they may be seen to fall to their knees,arms
out-stretched,gazing toward the ceiling and repeating in a loud
voice,"Thank you Jesus!Thank you Jesus!My prayers have been answered!"

Beyond that and FYI,there is no such animal as"too-many-goblets-of-
port" however there does exist in the more obscure annals of medical
science such a creature as"emptybottleitis"(pronounced "crying shame")
and this can lead to a wide range of behaviors,least of which is
running stark neked down mainstreet screaming like a banshee for ones
mommy as we try to locate the nearest clinic(pronounced"liquore
store") to re-new our prescription(pronounced"bottle").All reasonable
means should be employed to avoid contracting this miserable
affliction.See Big Bad Bruce,AKA Le Baron de Kingston for appropriate
actions regarding prevention/remedy.

Just trying to be helpful :-)

Sincerely,

Peter Lenihan,with anti-bodies galore and lots of medicine in the wine
cellar.....OOOPS!.....I mean medicine cabinet :-)
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, James Greene <jg6892@g...> wrote:
>
> Wood burning stoves dry thing out, and that's just the opposite of
> creating moisture build-up. There are numerous wood buring stoves
> available with automatic feeders that will run for far longer than
16
> hours at a time before the fuel hopper is empty.
>
> James Greene

Hi James,

Although what you say is true, it may be rather impractical to
install a wood-burning stove with feeder in a temporary boat
shelter. The chimney construction alone is a rather formidable
expense and also involves certain zoning regulations up here in
Canada.

An RV furnace would be a viable alternative. They have a totaly
enclosed combustion chamber with heat exchanger and can be vented
outside with a straight double walled tube which draws outside air
in through the outer section and exhausts the fumes through the
inner section. Most of these use propane which can be connected from
outside the shop.

The drawback is that one can buy several electric heaters for the
price of one of these and not have to worry about venting or propane
tanks.

Using electrical resistance is one hell of an inefficient way to
create heat but electricity is relatively cheap in Canada. Even
compared to wood. Especially if your rental space includes free
electricity.

I really like the idea of an electric blanket. That way if you
indulge in one too many goblets of port just crawl under the blanket
and you can dream of tropical sand beaches while at the same time
helping your epoxy cure:-)

Nels

Nels
Wood burning stoves dry thing out, and that's just the opposite of
creating moisture build-up. There are numerous wood buring stoves
available with automatic feeders that will run for far longer than 16
hours at a time before the fuel hopper is empty.

James Greene





On Sun, 06 Nov 2005 06:55:08 -0000, Peter Lenihan wrote:
> And yes,come to think about it,if I were to use
> any type of combustable fuel,no matter how safe,I will have a high
> moisture condensation problem once the really cold weather gets here.
--- "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@h...> wrote:
> The best cure for envy is a pile of wood, some tools and a
> plan :-)

.. and bank to pay ...
- the imported outdoor quality ply
- a house large enough to accomodate such a big ship
(I read that if a vessel can take another boat on board,
then it is a "ship". What is it, if it can take a whole Port
on board?)
- all the spare time ...

anyway. Dreams are free of charge....
And one of my greatest joys is to proof others wrong who say "never
can do".

Cheers,
Stefan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Rick Bedard <sctree@y...> wrote:
> Unseen in the photos are the many, many hundreds of hours of toil
between the snapshots you send, but I know they are there, and the
results show... You must have an epoxy and sandpaper budget
approaching the national debt of many countries..


Hi Rick!
Thanks for the kind words! Yes,there are many hours of toil
(which is actually what I tell all my friends) but truth be
told,those are really many hours of some of the funnest toils I've
ever had.Of course,being nothing more then a boat-bum at heart,there
are also many hours of simple,mindless, gazing about and sipping
from goblettes various.Surely you can't count that as toil unless
you include hauling the cork up through the neck of the bottle
without a proper cork screw.I'm working on a patent for this device
as we speak :-)

The epoxy budget(ha!) long ago was dispatched into the ether
since it served no meaningful purpose other then to make me feel sad
for not buying stock in Dow Chemicals. Sanding,on the other hand,is
remarkably"cheap" since the paper I am using just doesn't want to
quit.The 40 weight takes hours to get down to 80 weight and that in
turn takes hours more before it reaches 100 weight.Imagine that,you
only need to buy one weight of paper for all your eventual finishing
needs:-) An added bonus with sanding,especially hand sanding,is that
it is a close cousin to all that mindless gazing refered to
above.You might say I've grown accustomed to this particular state
of mind..........



>
> Question 1
> I know we discussed this many months (years?) ago, but my menory
fails and I'm too lazy to search the archives. What primer / finish
paint have you decided to use?



For all outside surfaces,I use Benjamin Moores' M33/M34 polyamide
epoxy primer.This same stuff is also used everywhere bellow the
cabin sole ie;the entire bilge.Comes in two colours:Rogue Red and
Gay Gray
For outside colours,it will also be a Benjamin Moore product
aliphatic(sp) two part paint.Tough as bullets and colour fast.The
inside will see Sicos' Polyprep3 as base primer and finish coats
probable a nice thick oil based house paint.


> Question 2
> How high above the cabin sole is the helm station floor? From what
I can tell it looks quite a bit elevated. Is it? If so, did Bolger
design steps to get up or are you relying on the energy of your
youthful "spring in your step" to climb up there? Also, is there
headroom to stand behind the helm or do you drive standing on the
cabin sole next to the helm?


Cabin headroom throughout is a generous 6'6+,depending on where you
are standing.The helm station is on a slightly raised platform
requiring about a 7" step up(or down if you're just coming in
through the cabin to use the head ;-) )One can either stand or sit
at the helm station.Lots of room either way!Bellow the helm sole,is
the
forward battery storage hold for six large deep cycle batteries.The
other six are located against the aft bulkhead of the stateroom.This
considerable charge of batteries serves to give one impressive
autonomy and is considered critical to Windermeres' overall stability
(ballast/displacement ratio).The entire layout is done with great
consideration from our Hero for it effectively permits one to get
around anywhere in the boat on ones hands and knees, a potentially
useful feature,especially after a visit from Le Baron de Kingston:-)
>
> Heater thoughts.
>

Yup....combustion is definitely out of the question! Electric is the
way to go for me since it is already included in my rental fee for
my space and,based on pole results,can offer trouble free safe
heat.....or so I understand.It is the flaming red hot toaster
element in most heaters that does scare me thus my interest in the
oil filled versions.

So,how did those beams you were building come out for you ?
Pictures/story behind them perhaps :-)

All the best!

Sincerely,

Peter Lenihan,eternally jealous of those folks living in mild gentle
climates......RATS!......from along the shores of you know where :-)
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Lewis E. Gordon"
<l_gordon_nica@y...> wrote:
>When in the States, we used one of the oil filled
> radiator heaters for twenty years with great success. Of course
that
> was in Tennessee and North Carolina where the winters were not too
> bad. Ours had a "tip over" switch (which worked) and was not too
bad
> on electricity usage on the low setting (which I think was about
550
> watts). I would trust one of these for 16 hours of unattended
usage.
>
> Lewis

Thanks Lewis! That's exactly what I was hoping to hear,solid
experience with a reliable and SAFE heater. I think I'm just about
sold on them now. And yes,come to think about it,if I were to use
any type of combustable fuel,no matter how safe,I will have a high
moisture condensation problem once the really cold weather gets here.
Want me to send you a post-card with a lovely picture of deep snow
on it.....just so you don't get too spoiled with all that warm
weather down your way? :-)

Sincerely,

Peter Lenihan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Ken <renueden@e...> wrote:
>
> Looks great Peter!
> I was wondering, did you glass the interior roof panels or just
primer them?
> Also, what kind of promer are you using?
> Thanks,
> Ken

Hello Ken,

Thanks for the compliment! There is no 'glassing of the
interior panels anywhere,especially on the ceiling/roof panels
since;a)the roof is already a substantial structure in and of itself
and will be 'glassed only on the outside. b)You're a better man then
me if you would do some upside down 'glassing :-)

For all my interior surfaces above the sole,I am using a
product called Polyprep 3 from Sico paints.If this link works,scroll
down near the bottom of the page;

http://www.sico.com/En/Architecture_Autpolpro.asp

I find it to be a nice easy product to apply,dries very quickly
and is rather high build.That is,it dries fast enough to apply
several coats in one day and it sands very easily.Some may argue
that there are better products out there and/or a primer is not
needed
on MDO surfaces.They may also be right too but perhaps they are not
as obsessive as me....dam the demon drink! The only down side is
that it stinks like hell when applying it and one must wear a gas
mask,especially in enclosed spaces.

Sincerely,

Peter Lenihan, who just realized that perhaps it has more to do with
actually enjoying the whole process and that the drink is but a balm
to even out the odd bumps along the road of life(yeah right!)......
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Probst" <stefan.probst@o...>
wrote:
>> Can't somebody get this guy arrested for the crime of making
everybody
> go green with envy? Bruce: What about some Port to slow him down?
>
> Stefan
>
> PS: regarding the heater: Depends very much on the location, I
guess.
> Electricity is expensive in many places. I have here a heater that
> uses a bottle of gas. Can be used only in large rooms, but that
would
> be no problem in your place.

Hi Stefan,

Thanks!The day Port slows me down,I'll have to start drinking,
(heaven
forbid) white wine...:-D
The best cure for envy is a pile of wood,some tools and a
plan:-)

The gas heater scares the willies right out of me.....I really do
not
want to make it on the front page of the local papers with a caption
under my photo reading"Amateur boatbuilder held for questioning
after
fire causes total loss at boat yard.Yard owner,Mr
Ipeenightly,estimates loses to exceed $5 million.Cause of fire
believed to be from bottle gas heater recommended by Stefan
Probst" :-D

Electricity IS cheap where I am at.

Sincerely,

Peter Lenihan,who would dearly love to have Bruce come by with a
bottle of Port to slow me down(ha!) and will stand anyone,who cares
to drop by, a fair goblette or two of that wonderful juice,from
along the shores of the St.Lawrence............


>
Peter,

As always, it's a bright spot in my day when I review your updates... Thanks.

Unseen in the photos are the many, many hundreds of hours of toil between the snapshots you send, but I know they are there, and the results show... You must have an epoxy and sandpaper budget approaching the national debt of many countries..

Question 1
I know we discussed this many months (years?) ago, but my menory fails and I'm too lazy to search the archives. What primer / finish paint have you decided to use?

Question 2
How high above the cabin sole is the helm station floor? From what I can tell it looks quite a bit elevated. Is it? If so, did Bolger design steps to get up or are you relying on the energy of your youthful "spring in your step" to climb up there? Also, is there headroom to stand behind the helm or do you drive standing on the cabin sole next to the helm?

Heater thoughts.

Strongly suggest you stick to electric. In addition to the safety issue, a byproduct of combustion heaters is water vapor, no good for epoxy work in a confined space. I have two small electric heaters, about $100 each that I use in similar situations (although nowhere near your frigid conditions). They are ceramic disc heaters, with internal fan, adjustible thermostat settings, automatic shutoff if overheated or if tilted/knocked over. To test possible flamability hazards I wrapped tissue paper around the face of one and left it on highest setting inside a metal bucket with a lid for a few hours. Bucket was hot, (didn't think to add a thermometer) yet the tissue was not even scorched. I'll check the brand name and model number when I get to the boatshed later today..

One other "heating" thought. I've used an old electric blanket over plastic over epoxywork (perhaps under everything would have been better) to keep the temp up enough for an overnight cure on what we call a cold night out here.


Thanks for the pics....
Rick Bedard






Stefan Probst <stefan.probst@opticom.v-nam.net> wrote:
--- "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@h...> wrote:
>
> Bolgerados,
>
> I've posted my latest set of progress photos,with captions,
> over in the Bolger 4 files section here:
>
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger4/files/WINDERMERE/

Can't somebody get this guy arrested for the crime of making everybody
go green with envy? Bruce: What about some Port to slow him down?

Stefan

PS: regarding the heater: Depends very much on the location, I guess.
Electricity is expensive in many places. I have here a heater that
uses a bottle of gas. Can be used only in large rooms, but that would
be no problem in your place.






Bolger rules!!!
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- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Regarding the heater: Living here in Nicaragua we certainly don't need
a heater, but I think even the best of the ceramic gas bottle heaters
will put water vapor into the space which might lead to condensation
in Peter's location. When in the States, we used one of the oil filled
radiator heaters for twenty years with great success. Of course that
was in Tennessee and North Carolina where the winters were not too
bad. Ours had a "tip over" switch (which worked) and was not too bad
on electricity usage on the low setting (which I think was about 550
watts). I would trust one of these for 16 hours of unattended usage.

Lewis


--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Probst" <stefan.probst@o...> wrote:
>
> --- "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@h...> wrote:
> >
> > Bolgerados,
> >
> > I've posted my latest set of progress photos,with captions,
> > over in the Bolger 4 files section here:
> >
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger4/files/WINDERMERE/
>
> Can't somebody get this guy arrested for the crime of making everybody
> go green with envy? Bruce: What about some Port to slow him down?
>
> Stefan
>
> PS: regarding the heater: Depends very much on the location, I guess.
> Electricity is expensive in many places. I have here a heater that
> uses a bottle of gas. Can be used only in large rooms, but that would
> be no problem in your place.
>
Looks great Peter!
I was wondering, did you glass the interior roof panels or just primer them?
Also, what kind of promer are you using?
Thanks,
Ken
Peter Lenihan wrote:

>Bolgerados,
>
> I've posted my latest set of progress photos,with captions,
>over in the Bolger 4 files section here:
>
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger4/files/WINDERMERE/
>
> The latest ones are indicated by the november 2005 date.With
>summer long gone and cold weather coming on fast,I look forward to
>getting the interior insulation installed really soon so that I may
>proceed with some serious painting and finishing work.
> If anyone knows of a good,reliable,safe and portable electric
>heater which can be left un-attended for 16 hour stretches....I
>would really appreciate hearing from you. As it is now, I'm
>considering one of those portable oil-filled electric heaters that
>resemble the old water pipe radiators of lore...........
> At any rate,feel free to ask questions or add comments :-)
>
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Peter Lenihan,eager to get on with some nice"easy" interior
>finishing as the days grow shorter,colder and lonelier at the
>boatyard along the Seaway..........
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@h...> wrote:
>
> Bolgerados,
>
> I've posted my latest set of progress photos,with captions,
> over in the Bolger 4 files section here:
>
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger4/files/WINDERMERE/

Can't somebody get this guy arrested for the crime of making everybody
go green with envy? Bruce: What about some Port to slow him down?

Stefan

PS: regarding the heater: Depends very much on the location, I guess.
Electricity is expensive in many places. I have here a heater that
uses a bottle of gas. Can be used only in large rooms, but that would
be no problem in your place.
Bolgerados,

I've posted my latest set of progress photos,with captions,
over in the Bolger 4 files section here:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger4/files/WINDERMERE/

The latest ones are indicated by the november 2005 date.With
summer long gone and cold weather coming on fast,I look forward to
getting the interior insulation installed really soon so that I may
proceed with some serious painting and finishing work.
If anyone knows of a good,reliable,safe and portable electric
heater which can be left un-attended for 16 hour stretches....I
would really appreciate hearing from you. As it is now, I'm
considering one of those portable oil-filled electric heaters that
resemble the old water pipe radiators of lore...........
At any rate,feel free to ask questions or add comments :-)


Sincerely,

Peter Lenihan,eager to get on with some nice"easy" interior
finishing as the days grow shorter,colder and lonelier at the
boatyard along the Seaway..........