Re: Paint for Bobcat
I want to thank everyone for their responses to this question. I
think am going to go with the Epoxy paint for the centerboard trunk.
BOBBY
think am going to go with the Epoxy paint for the centerboard trunk.
BOBBY
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "txsailor37" <txsailor37@y...> wrote:
>
> I am making some headways again on my Bobcat, and I have come to the
> part where I need to paint the inside of the centerboard trunk.
What
> is GOOD paint choice that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? I have
> through some of the previous posts on this subject but I am still
> confused. This boat will be trailered and never spend more than a
day
> in the water. I am not looking for super cheap, but maybe something
I
> could get without having to drive 80 miles to marine supply store.
>
> Thanks for any help.
> BOBBY
>
Contact cement: I have used it with good results for countertops except
where steam from dishwaher caused some failure. But most important and
off topic, I used it on the roof of several bird houses and it failed in
a couple of months.Clyde
David wrote:
where steam from dishwaher caused some failure. But most important and
off topic, I used it on the roof of several bird houses and it failed in
a couple of months.Clyde
David wrote:
> As a professional woodworker, I've done miles of plastic laminate[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> (Formica) on marine ply for high-use countertops. Have yet to see
> one fail - despite having some soaked in fires, floods, or by
> careless usage. I wouldn't guarantee that such an application would
> hold up for decades on a moored boat. I'd be willing to bet, though,
> that it'd work just fine on a trailor sailed boat. I would
> absolutely use the stinky, solvent-based contact cement - not a
> water-based.
>
> Cheers,
> David Graybeal
> Portland, OR.
>
> "Brain: an apparatus with which we think we think" -- Ambrose Bierce
>
> *******************
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Will Samson" <willsamson@y...> wrote:
> >
> > Jon Kolb wrote:
> >
> > >>On the other hand, since you're talking about the inside of the
> > centerboard trunk, why not just glass/epoxy both sides, epoxy coat
> > the headposts, sand it all smooth before assembly and be done with
> > it? Is the slot likely to allow a significant amount of sunlight
> > into the trunk? I think it would take a long time for an
> unpainted but epoxy/glassed centerboard trunk interior to
> deteriorate.>>
> >
> > I've not tried this myself, but I believe that Brad Story used to
> line his CB trunks with Formica - thereby saving all sorts of fuss
> and bother with sanding, painting and so on.
> >
> > The only possible snag is finding the right glue for the job. I
> doubt very much if contact adhesive would be satisfactory. Anybody
> got any experience of this technique?
> >
> > Bill
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
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> dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> Fax: (978) 282-1349
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As a professional woodworker, I've done miles of plastic laminate
(Formica) on marine ply for high-use countertops. Have yet to see
one fail - despite having some soaked in fires, floods, or by
careless usage. I wouldn't guarantee that such an application would
hold up for decades on a moored boat. I'd be willing to bet, though,
that it'd work just fine on a trailor sailed boat. I would
absolutely use the stinky, solvent-based contact cement - not a
water-based.
Cheers,
David Graybeal
Portland, OR.
"Brain: an apparatus with which we think we think" -- Ambrose Bierce
*******************
(Formica) on marine ply for high-use countertops. Have yet to see
one fail - despite having some soaked in fires, floods, or by
careless usage. I wouldn't guarantee that such an application would
hold up for decades on a moored boat. I'd be willing to bet, though,
that it'd work just fine on a trailor sailed boat. I would
absolutely use the stinky, solvent-based contact cement - not a
water-based.
Cheers,
David Graybeal
Portland, OR.
"Brain: an apparatus with which we think we think" -- Ambrose Bierce
*******************
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Will Samson" <willsamson@y...> wrote:
>
> Jon Kolb wrote:
>
> >>On the other hand, since you're talking about the inside of the
> centerboard trunk, why not just glass/epoxy both sides, epoxy coat
> the headposts, sand it all smooth before assembly and be done with
> it? Is the slot likely to allow a significant amount of sunlight
> into the trunk? I think it would take a long time for an
unpainted but epoxy/glassed centerboard trunk interior to
deteriorate.>>
>
> I've not tried this myself, but I believe that Brad Story used to
line his CB trunks with Formica - thereby saving all sorts of fuss
and bother with sanding, painting and so on.
>
> The only possible snag is finding the right glue for the job. I
doubt very much if contact adhesive would be satisfactory. Anybody
got any experience of this technique?
>
> Bill
I've got the formica mod on the Chebacco, however there is a "bubble under
part of it which has caused significant modding to be done to the
centerboard itself. If you do the formica thing, be sure it is rolled and
pressed flat along the entire surface.
part of it which has caused significant modding to be done to the
centerboard itself. If you do the formica thing, be sure it is rolled and
pressed flat along the entire surface.
> Jon Kolb wrote:
>
>>>On the other hand, since you're talking about the inside of the
> centerboard trunk, why not just glass/epoxy both sides, epoxy coat
> the headposts, sand it all smooth before assembly and be done with
> it? Is the slot likely to allow a significant amount of sunlight
> into the trunk? I think it would take a long time for an unpainted
> but epoxy/glassed centerboard trunk interior to deteriorate.>>
>
> I've not tried this myself, but I believe that Brad Story used to line his
> CB trunks with Formica - thereby saving all sorts of fuss and bother with
> sanding, painting and so on.
>
> The only possible snag is finding the right glue for the job. I doubt
> very much if contact adhesive would be satisfactory. Anybody got any
> experience of this technique?
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
> horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Jon Kolb wrote:
the headposts, sand it all smooth before assembly and be done with
it? Is the slot likely to allow a significant amount of sunlight
into the trunk? I think it would take a long time for an unpainted
but epoxy/glassed centerboard trunk interior to deteriorate.>>
I've not tried this myself, but I believe that Brad Story used to line his CB trunks with Formica - thereby saving all sorts of fuss and bother with sanding, painting and so on.
The only possible snag is finding the right glue for the job. I doubt very much if contact adhesive would be satisfactory. Anybody got any experience of this technique?
Bill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>On the other hand, since you're talking about the inside of thecenterboard trunk, why not just glass/epoxy both sides, epoxy coat
the headposts, sand it all smooth before assembly and be done with
it? Is the slot likely to allow a significant amount of sunlight
into the trunk? I think it would take a long time for an unpainted
but epoxy/glassed centerboard trunk interior to deteriorate.>>
I've not tried this myself, but I believe that Brad Story used to line his CB trunks with Formica - thereby saving all sorts of fuss and bother with sanding, painting and so on.
The only possible snag is finding the right glue for the job. I doubt very much if contact adhesive would be satisfactory. Anybody got any experience of this technique?
Bill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bobby,
...snip...
If you can't find anything at the hardware store, see if you have a
Sherwin-Williams store in town. They sell something called "Tile
Clad II", which is a two-part industrial epoxy paint. It's quite
noxious to use, as are most two part paint systems, so you need a
respirator. I recall spending about $50 per gallon back in '02 when
I used it on my Light Schooner hull.
On the other hand, since you're talking about the inside of the
centerboard trunk, why not just glass/epoxy both sides, epoxy coat
the headposts, sand it all smooth before assembly and be done with
it? Is the slot likely to allow a significant amount of sunlight
into the trunk? I think it would take a long time for an unpainted
but epoxy/glassed centerboard trunk interior to deteriorate.
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
> Look in your local hardware store in the paint dept. Most hardwarestores
> carry a true, two part epoxy for redoing bath tubs, shower stalls,etc.
...snip...
If you can't find anything at the hardware store, see if you have a
Sherwin-Williams store in town. They sell something called "Tile
Clad II", which is a two-part industrial epoxy paint. It's quite
noxious to use, as are most two part paint systems, so you need a
respirator. I recall spending about $50 per gallon back in '02 when
I used it on my Light Schooner hull.
On the other hand, since you're talking about the inside of the
centerboard trunk, why not just glass/epoxy both sides, epoxy coat
the headposts, sand it all smooth before assembly and be done with
it? Is the slot likely to allow a significant amount of sunlight
into the trunk? I think it would take a long time for an unpainted
but epoxy/glassed centerboard trunk interior to deteriorate.
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
Look in your local hardware store in the paint dept. Most hardware stores
carry a true, two part epoxy for redoing bath tubs, shower stalls, etc. At my
local store it cost 19.95 a qt., which is not super cheap, but way cheaper than
two part epoxy paints at marine stores, 80 miles away:) They only come in
white, but that won't matter for the inside of a centerboard trunk. They can also
be colored with standard paint tinting colors, available right there at the
same hardware store. They won't, however, actually take off the cover and add
it right to the paint. At least mine store won't. They just dispensed 1 oz
into a container, and I mixed it myself. The directions for tinting are right
on the paint can. Remember, however, that as tough as two part epoxies are,
they have a tendency to "chalk" with prolonged exposure to the sun unless you
keep them waxed. One with UV protection.
Bob
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
carry a true, two part epoxy for redoing bath tubs, shower stalls, etc. At my
local store it cost 19.95 a qt., which is not super cheap, but way cheaper than
two part epoxy paints at marine stores, 80 miles away:) They only come in
white, but that won't matter for the inside of a centerboard trunk. They can also
be colored with standard paint tinting colors, available right there at the
same hardware store. They won't, however, actually take off the cover and add
it right to the paint. At least mine store won't. They just dispensed 1 oz
into a container, and I mixed it myself. The directions for tinting are right
on the paint can. Remember, however, that as tough as two part epoxies are,
they have a tendency to "chalk" with prolonged exposure to the sun unless you
keep them waxed. One with UV protection.
Bob
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I am making some headways again on my Bobcat, and I have come to the
part where I need to paint the inside of the centerboard trunk. What
is GOOD paint choice that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? I have
through some of the previous posts on this subject but I am still
confused. This boat will be trailered and never spend more than a day
in the water. I am not looking for super cheap, but maybe something I
could get without having to drive 80 miles to marine supply store.
Thanks for any help.
BOBBY
part where I need to paint the inside of the centerboard trunk. What
is GOOD paint choice that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? I have
through some of the previous posts on this subject but I am still
confused. This boat will be trailered and never spend more than a day
in the water. I am not looking for super cheap, but maybe something I
could get without having to drive 80 miles to marine supply store.
Thanks for any help.
BOBBY