Re: LED's
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@p...> wrote:
earlier. In the meantime, progess has continued. The 8-LED dome
lights mentioned in the article are now available in 20 or 24 light
modules. There's also type 1156/1157 bayonet mount bulbs with LEDs on
all sides (instead of just the top), making it useful for lights like
my old Aqua Signal series 40 masthead tricolor, which alas I broke.
Newer lights all seem to take different type bulbs and I haven't
researched enought o see what LEDs might fit them . . .
Gary Blankenship
>It ran in January of this year and was written a couple months
> Gary
>
> When did you write the LED article for Duckworks?
>
>http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/05/articles/led/index.cfm
>
> HJ
>
earlier. In the meantime, progess has continued. The 8-LED dome
lights mentioned in the article are now available in 20 or 24 light
modules. There's also type 1156/1157 bayonet mount bulbs with LEDs on
all sides (instead of just the top), making it useful for lights like
my old Aqua Signal series 40 masthead tricolor, which alas I broke.
Newer lights all seem to take different type bulbs and I haven't
researched enought o see what LEDs might fit them . . .
Gary Blankenship
That's a good article. Something else to add is that "white" LEDs
aren't really white, they're blue with a filtering lens (over
simplifying, but close enough) over them. They are, therefore, less
efficient than their red, green and blue counterparts.
Harry James wrote:
aren't really white, they're blue with a filtering lens (over
simplifying, but close enough) over them. They are, therefore, less
efficient than their red, green and blue counterparts.
Harry James wrote:
>Gary
>
>When did you write the LED article for Duckworks?
>
>http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/05/articles/led/index.cfm
>
>HJ
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Gary
When did you write the LED article for Duckworks?
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/05/articles/led/index.cfm
HJ
When did you write the LED article for Duckworks?
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/05/articles/led/index.cfm
HJ
>I can heartily recommend my buddy Grant Gambell in Camden. They doAnd Dabbler Sails - Stu Hopkins, he is *very* highly thought of for
>traditional sails.
traditional small-boat sails.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Clyde Wisner <clydewis@c...> wrote:
half, to promote efficient motoring, the hull on Le Dulci-mer curves up
for better sailing lines. I think my boat is a bit beamier
propostionately than the first FM, but not sure about that.
Gary
>Motor
> Great pictures, Gary, thanks. Is your hull like the original Fast
> Sailor? ClydeYes, except where the original FM hull buttom runs flat on the aft
>
half, to promote efficient motoring, the hull on Le Dulci-mer curves up
for better sailing lines. I think my boat is a bit beamier
propostionately than the first FM, but not sure about that.
Gary
Great pictures, Gary, thanks. Is your hull like the original Fast Motor
Sailor? Clyde
gbship wrote:
Sailor? Clyde
gbship wrote:
> Harry:[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> I just uploaded some. both sailing and detail pics of reefing
> arrangement to a Yahoo album. Check here:
>http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gbship/album?.dir=/962b&.src=ph
> <http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gbship/album?.dir=/962b&.src=ph>
>
> Gary Blankenship
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@p...> wrote:
> >
> > Gary
>
>
>
> Great outdoors
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Great+outdoors&w1=Alaska+outdoors&w2=Boating+safety&w3=Boating+magazine&w4=Great+outdoors&c=4&s=83&.sig=9JTGiesOZ6gmlb-83HgTNg>
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I can heartily recommend my buddy Grant Gambell in Camden. They do
traditional sails.
Gambell and Hunter Sailmakers
16 Limerock Street
Camden, ME 04843
207-236-3561
888-406-3520
info@...
_____
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
gbship
Sent: Saturday, December 24, 2005 11:06 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Reefing a balanced lug
Harry & John -- Whew! A lot of questions. Let's take Harry's first...
Halyard and downhaul tension, primarily. to get the sail tight. The
weight of the yard aft of the mast also acts to tighten the luff.
the first (and probably only) of this type they did. Don't know if
that sailmaker chain is stil lin business. It should be noted this
boat was designed and originally sailed as a dipping lugger with 2
mains. When tacking, one sail was lower and the other raised to avoid
the "dipping." Quickly got to be a bit much on a 95-degree Gulf of
Mexico summer day, so the change was made to balanced lugger. I think
the draft is a bit too far aft on the sail, but don't know if it
would have been different had the sail been made as a balanced lugger
from the start. We also have a Jim Michalak-designed Frolic2 which
has a 114 square foot balanced lug. We made that from a Sailrite kit
and I think it sets better than the larger sail. As for weight, I
specified 8 oz. because it wanted a near bulletproof sail. Got that,
but it's heavy as hell to hoist. I need a winch to do it, and a 2-
speed to do it easily. Bolger once told me he had a 450 square foot
dipping lugsail on Resolution that was made from 4.5 oz. cloth and he
had no trouble hoisting that by hand. I suspect a 6.5 oz cloth would
have been fine for normal use. The sailmakers made the decisions
about draft and shape.
the performance pleases me. Any four-sided sail will lose out to
windward to a well-tuned burmudan rig. That said, there are few boats
its size that can keep up, in a good breeze, with Le Dulci-mer from a
close reach to a run without flying a lot of extra sails. On widnward
performance, I think I've fallen victim to the belief that it
couldn't be better than it is. Recently, I've been playing with the
downhaul location, moving it forward, and it seems to have improved
performance, both in pointing ability and speed. In light winds and
calm waters, I have tacked on 80 degrees, although it's slow that
pinched. Also been playing with the incident angle of the keel wings
and that definitely has made an improvement. It never occurred to me
that that much "tuning" would be needed on a lugsail. More testing is
needed, but a combination of motor problems, huricanes, and a nagging
but not-serious illness have kept me from sailing the boat since
August. I hope to report more on this to the list when I've had some
more trial runs.
The only other performance consideration is the difficulty of adding
light air sails in calmer winds.
sail is hoisted, all the hard work is done (unless you have to reef
later). All you have to do is play with the main sheet. Tacking is
just a matter of throwing the tiller over. I usually sail single-
handed, but with the help of an autopilot.
such as Seabird 87 or Whalewatcher where I could pop out of a hatch
right next to the mast (and which have smaller mains), I'd be tempted
to lead all the reefing lines to cleats on the boom at the mast,
which would do away with the clutter of blocks and extra friction
from running the reefing lines to the cockpit. A note: adding the
third set of reefing lines seemed to more than double the complexity
of the lines ane propensity for tangles. They have to be very
carefully led. There would be less problem on Martha Jane or
Seabird, which have only two sets of reefs.
boat. It's basically a Gypsy blown up to twice its size. The flat
borrom hull can pound a bit going to weather, and can bet stopped by
the right size and steepness of a chop --- usually encountered in an
inlet with the wind and tide oppose each other. Also, this boat is
not comfortable. I'm happy with it, but most people find it less
comfy than regular production racer-cruisers. My joke is that I have
a 30-footer with all the room and ease of a 22-footer, which actually
isn't true since most 22 footers have four berths and Le Dulci-mer
only has two. But the design specs didn't call for a lot of comfort,
they called for good straight line speed and ease of building.
an otherwise festive time that's been a bit blighted by a head
cold . . .
And now to John's observations. . .\
especially that one from the stern quarter. the drawings are much
more accurage.
doing the leech. This keeps the center of effort in about the same
place, at least I don't notice a difference in helm balance. Note,
this is only a concern because the reef lines are led through block
as the base of the mast and become the new downhaul. If the reef
lines were tied off on cleats on the boom, then the original downhaul
would be unaffected and shifting the sail foreward or aft by reefing
would be as much of a concern.
And now i wish everyone a balanced (lugger) and Merry Chiistmas!
Gary
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
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traditional sails.
Gambell and Hunter Sailmakers
16 Limerock Street
Camden, ME 04843
207-236-3561
888-406-3520
info@...
_____
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
gbship
Sent: Saturday, December 24, 2005 11:06 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Reefing a balanced lug
Harry & John -- Whew! A lot of questions. Let's take Harry's first...
> 1. Keeping the luff tight on the wind would be important, how isthis done?
Halyard and downhaul tension, primarily. to get the sail tight. The
weight of the yard aft of the mast also acts to tighten the luff.
>Ulmer-Kolius in Clearwater, Fl., made the sails, and I think it was
> 2. This sail is non standard, there are not many sail makers with
> experience in cutting one. Who did it for you and how did make the
> decisions on draft, cloth weight, shape etc?
the first (and probably only) of this type they did. Don't know if
that sailmaker chain is stil lin business. It should be noted this
boat was designed and originally sailed as a dipping lugger with 2
mains. When tacking, one sail was lower and the other raised to avoid
the "dipping." Quickly got to be a bit much on a 95-degree Gulf of
Mexico summer day, so the change was made to balanced lugger. I think
the draft is a bit too far aft on the sail, but don't know if it
would have been different had the sail been made as a balanced lugger
from the start. We also have a Jim Michalak-designed Frolic2 which
has a 114 square foot balanced lug. We made that from a Sailrite kit
and I think it sets better than the larger sail. As for weight, I
specified 8 oz. because it wanted a near bulletproof sail. Got that,
but it's heavy as hell to hoist. I need a winch to do it, and a 2-
speed to do it easily. Bolger once told me he had a 450 square foot
dipping lugsail on Resolution that was made from 4.5 oz. cloth and he
had no trouble hoisting that by hand. I suspect a 6.5 oz cloth would
have been fine for normal use. The sailmakers made the decisions
about draft and shape.
> 3. Are you happy with the performance all around? I would thinkthat you
> have lost some windward performance.With the caveat, that I've never been a demon about performance, yes
the performance pleases me. Any four-sided sail will lose out to
windward to a well-tuned burmudan rig. That said, there are few boats
its size that can keep up, in a good breeze, with Le Dulci-mer from a
close reach to a run without flying a lot of extra sails. On widnward
performance, I think I've fallen victim to the belief that it
couldn't be better than it is. Recently, I've been playing with the
downhaul location, moving it forward, and it seems to have improved
performance, both in pointing ability and speed. In light winds and
calm waters, I have tacked on 80 degrees, although it's slow that
pinched. Also been playing with the incident angle of the keel wings
and that definitely has made an improvement. It never occurred to me
that that much "tuning" would be needed on a lugsail. More testing is
needed, but a combination of motor problems, huricanes, and a nagging
but not-serious illness have kept me from sailing the boat since
August. I hope to report more on this to the list when I've had some
more trial runs.
The only other performance consideration is the difficulty of adding
light air sails in calmer winds.
>No comparison. A balanced lug is simply rediculously easy. After the
> 4. Ease of handling compared to a conventional Bermuda rig, single
> handed and otherwise.
sail is hoisted, all the hard work is done (unless you have to reef
later). All you have to do is play with the main sheet. Tacking is
just a matter of throwing the tiller over. I usually sail single-
handed, but with the help of an autopilot.
>On this boat, nothing. If I had one of Bolger's different designs,
> 5. What would you change or do different?
such as Seabird 87 or Whalewatcher where I could pop out of a hatch
right next to the mast (and which have smaller mains), I'd be tempted
to lead all the reefing lines to cleats on the boom at the mast,
which would do away with the clutter of blocks and extra friction
from running the reefing lines to the cockpit. A note: adding the
third set of reefing lines seemed to more than double the complexity
of the lines ane propensity for tangles. They have to be very
carefully led. There would be less problem on Martha Jane or
Seabird, which have only two sets of reefs.
>I
> I am not a big fan of going slow just because its a cruising boat.
> think boats out to be fast and weatherly and easy to handle firstthen
> deal with the comfort angle last. How do you think your boatbalances
> the compromises.I think the balanced lug rig is more weatherly that the hull is on my
boat. It's basically a Gypsy blown up to twice its size. The flat
borrom hull can pound a bit going to weather, and can bet stopped by
the right size and steepness of a chop --- usually encountered in an
inlet with the wind and tide oppose each other. Also, this boat is
not comfortable. I'm happy with it, but most people find it less
comfy than regular production racer-cruisers. My joke is that I have
a 30-footer with all the room and ease of a 22-footer, which actually
isn't true since most 22 footers have four berths and Le Dulci-mer
only has two. But the design specs didn't call for a lot of comfort,
they called for good straight line speed and ease of building.
>in
> Thank you for your responses, those pictures of a boat moving well
> the sun are a nice balance to a wet rainy Juneau day.Been a bit rainy here in Tallahassee, and your posts are helping pass
>
an otherwise festive time that's been a bit blighted by a head
cold . . .
And now to John's observations. . .\
>It looks like your balanced lug sail is nearly square (i.e.Actually the sail isn't as square as the pictures made it look,
>leach "and luff
>are nearly parallel). Reefing a sail of this shape doesn't move the
>geometric center of the sail forward or aft--at least not very much.
especially that one from the stern quarter. the drawings are much
more accurage.
>SomeReefing is always done by pulling down the luff reef line first, then
>balanced lugs are quite a bit narrower at the top than at the
>bottom, and
>unless you take some care in locating where the reef pennants run to
>the
>boom, it is possible to move the geometric center of the sail. My
>experience has been that if you keep the leach reef pennant to the
>back of
>the boom, the geometric center of the reefed sail will move aft,
>perhaps
>increasing weather helm (which is a lot better than having the
>center move
>forward producing a lee helm).
doing the leech. This keeps the center of effort in about the same
place, at least I don't notice a difference in helm balance. Note,
this is only a concern because the reef lines are led through block
as the base of the mast and become the new downhaul. If the reef
lines were tied off on cleats on the boom, then the original downhaul
would be unaffected and shifting the sail foreward or aft by reefing
would be as much of a concern.
And now i wish everyone a balanced (lugger) and Merry Chiistmas!
Gary
>Bolger rules!!!
>
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Harry & John -- Whew! A lot of questions. Let's take Harry's first...
Halyard and downhaul tension, primarily. to get the sail tight. The
weight of the yard aft of the mast also acts to tighten the luff.
the first (and probably only) of this type they did. Don't know if
that sailmaker chain is stil lin business. It should be noted this
boat was designed and originally sailed as a dipping lugger with 2
mains. When tacking, one sail was lower and the other raised to avoid
the "dipping." Quickly got to be a bit much on a 95-degree Gulf of
Mexico summer day, so the change was made to balanced lugger. I think
the draft is a bit too far aft on the sail, but don't know if it
would have been different had the sail been made as a balanced lugger
from the start. We also have a Jim Michalak-designed Frolic2 which
has a 114 square foot balanced lug. We made that from a Sailrite kit
and I think it sets better than the larger sail. As for weight, I
specified 8 oz. because it wanted a near bulletproof sail. Got that,
but it's heavy as hell to hoist. I need a winch to do it, and a 2-
speed to do it easily. Bolger once told me he had a 450 square foot
dipping lugsail on Resolution that was made from 4.5 oz. cloth and he
had no trouble hoisting that by hand. I suspect a 6.5 oz cloth would
have been fine for normal use. The sailmakers made the decisions
about draft and shape.
the performance pleases me. Any four-sided sail will lose out to
windward to a well-tuned burmudan rig. That said, there are few boats
its size that can keep up, in a good breeze, with Le Dulci-mer from a
close reach to a run without flying a lot of extra sails. On widnward
performance, I think I've fallen victim to the belief that it
couldn't be better than it is. Recently, I've been playing with the
downhaul location, moving it forward, and it seems to have improved
performance, both in pointing ability and speed. In light winds and
calm waters, I have tacked on 80 degrees, although it's slow that
pinched. Also been playing with the incident angle of the keel wings
and that definitely has made an improvement. It never occurred to me
that that much "tuning" would be needed on a lugsail. More testing is
needed, but a combination of motor problems, huricanes, and a nagging
but not-serious illness have kept me from sailing the boat since
August. I hope to report more on this to the list when I've had some
more trial runs.
The only other performance consideration is the difficulty of adding
light air sails in calmer winds.
sail is hoisted, all the hard work is done (unless you have to reef
later). All you have to do is play with the main sheet. Tacking is
just a matter of throwing the tiller over. I usually sail single-
handed, but with the help of an autopilot.
such as Seabird 87 or Whalewatcher where I could pop out of a hatch
right next to the mast (and which have smaller mains), I'd be tempted
to lead all the reefing lines to cleats on the boom at the mast,
which would do away with the clutter of blocks and extra friction
from running the reefing lines to the cockpit. A note: adding the
third set of reefing lines seemed to more than double the complexity
of the lines ane propensity for tangles. They have to be very
carefully led. There would be less problem on Martha Jane or
Seabird, which have only two sets of reefs.
boat. It's basically a Gypsy blown up to twice its size. The flat
borrom hull can pound a bit going to weather, and can bet stopped by
the right size and steepness of a chop --- usually encountered in an
inlet with the wind and tide oppose each other. Also, this boat is
not comfortable. I'm happy with it, but most people find it less
comfy than regular production racer-cruisers. My joke is that I have
a 30-footer with all the room and ease of a 22-footer, which actually
isn't true since most 22 footers have four berths and Le Dulci-mer
only has two. But the design specs didn't call for a lot of comfort,
they called for good straight line speed and ease of building.
an otherwise festive time that's been a bit blighted by a head
cold . . .
And now to John's observations. . .\
especially that one from the stern quarter. the drawings are much
more accurage.
doing the leech. This keeps the center of effort in about the same
place, at least I don't notice a difference in helm balance. Note,
this is only a concern because the reef lines are led through block
as the base of the mast and become the new downhaul. If the reef
lines were tied off on cleats on the boom, then the original downhaul
would be unaffected and shifting the sail foreward or aft by reefing
would be as much of a concern.
And now i wish everyone a balanced (lugger) and Merry Chiistmas!
Gary
> 1. Keeping the luff tight on the wind would be important, how isthis done?
Halyard and downhaul tension, primarily. to get the sail tight. The
weight of the yard aft of the mast also acts to tighten the luff.
>Ulmer-Kolius in Clearwater, Fl., made the sails, and I think it was
> 2. This sail is non standard, there are not many sail makers with
> experience in cutting one. Who did it for you and how did make the
> decisions on draft, cloth weight, shape etc?
the first (and probably only) of this type they did. Don't know if
that sailmaker chain is stil lin business. It should be noted this
boat was designed and originally sailed as a dipping lugger with 2
mains. When tacking, one sail was lower and the other raised to avoid
the "dipping." Quickly got to be a bit much on a 95-degree Gulf of
Mexico summer day, so the change was made to balanced lugger. I think
the draft is a bit too far aft on the sail, but don't know if it
would have been different had the sail been made as a balanced lugger
from the start. We also have a Jim Michalak-designed Frolic2 which
has a 114 square foot balanced lug. We made that from a Sailrite kit
and I think it sets better than the larger sail. As for weight, I
specified 8 oz. because it wanted a near bulletproof sail. Got that,
but it's heavy as hell to hoist. I need a winch to do it, and a 2-
speed to do it easily. Bolger once told me he had a 450 square foot
dipping lugsail on Resolution that was made from 4.5 oz. cloth and he
had no trouble hoisting that by hand. I suspect a 6.5 oz cloth would
have been fine for normal use. The sailmakers made the decisions
about draft and shape.
> 3. Are you happy with the performance all around? I would thinkthat you
> have lost some windward performance.With the caveat, that I've never been a demon about performance, yes
the performance pleases me. Any four-sided sail will lose out to
windward to a well-tuned burmudan rig. That said, there are few boats
its size that can keep up, in a good breeze, with Le Dulci-mer from a
close reach to a run without flying a lot of extra sails. On widnward
performance, I think I've fallen victim to the belief that it
couldn't be better than it is. Recently, I've been playing with the
downhaul location, moving it forward, and it seems to have improved
performance, both in pointing ability and speed. In light winds and
calm waters, I have tacked on 80 degrees, although it's slow that
pinched. Also been playing with the incident angle of the keel wings
and that definitely has made an improvement. It never occurred to me
that that much "tuning" would be needed on a lugsail. More testing is
needed, but a combination of motor problems, huricanes, and a nagging
but not-serious illness have kept me from sailing the boat since
August. I hope to report more on this to the list when I've had some
more trial runs.
The only other performance consideration is the difficulty of adding
light air sails in calmer winds.
>No comparison. A balanced lug is simply rediculously easy. After the
> 4. Ease of handling compared to a conventional Bermuda rig, single
> handed and otherwise.
sail is hoisted, all the hard work is done (unless you have to reef
later). All you have to do is play with the main sheet. Tacking is
just a matter of throwing the tiller over. I usually sail single-
handed, but with the help of an autopilot.
>On this boat, nothing. If I had one of Bolger's different designs,
> 5. What would you change or do different?
such as Seabird 87 or Whalewatcher where I could pop out of a hatch
right next to the mast (and which have smaller mains), I'd be tempted
to lead all the reefing lines to cleats on the boom at the mast,
which would do away with the clutter of blocks and extra friction
from running the reefing lines to the cockpit. A note: adding the
third set of reefing lines seemed to more than double the complexity
of the lines ane propensity for tangles. They have to be very
carefully led. There would be less problem on Martha Jane or
Seabird, which have only two sets of reefs.
>I
> I am not a big fan of going slow just because its a cruising boat.
> think boats out to be fast and weatherly and easy to handle firstthen
> deal with the comfort angle last. How do you think your boatbalances
> the compromises.I think the balanced lug rig is more weatherly that the hull is on my
boat. It's basically a Gypsy blown up to twice its size. The flat
borrom hull can pound a bit going to weather, and can bet stopped by
the right size and steepness of a chop --- usually encountered in an
inlet with the wind and tide oppose each other. Also, this boat is
not comfortable. I'm happy with it, but most people find it less
comfy than regular production racer-cruisers. My joke is that I have
a 30-footer with all the room and ease of a 22-footer, which actually
isn't true since most 22 footers have four berths and Le Dulci-mer
only has two. But the design specs didn't call for a lot of comfort,
they called for good straight line speed and ease of building.
>in
> Thank you for your responses, those pictures of a boat moving well
> the sun are a nice balance to a wet rainy Juneau day.Been a bit rainy here in Tallahassee, and your posts are helping pass
>
an otherwise festive time that's been a bit blighted by a head
cold . . .
And now to John's observations. . .\
>It looks like your balanced lug sail is nearly square (i.e.Actually the sail isn't as square as the pictures made it look,
>leach "and luff
>are nearly parallel). Reefing a sail of this shape doesn't move the
>geometric center of the sail forward or aft--at least not very much.
especially that one from the stern quarter. the drawings are much
more accurage.
>SomeReefing is always done by pulling down the luff reef line first, then
>balanced lugs are quite a bit narrower at the top than at the
>bottom, and
>unless you take some care in locating where the reef pennants run to
>the
>boom, it is possible to move the geometric center of the sail. My
>experience has been that if you keep the leach reef pennant to the
>back of
>the boom, the geometric center of the reefed sail will move aft,
>perhaps
>increasing weather helm (which is a lot better than having the
>center move
>forward producing a lee helm).
doing the leech. This keeps the center of effort in about the same
place, at least I don't notice a difference in helm balance. Note,
this is only a concern because the reef lines are led through block
as the base of the mast and become the new downhaul. If the reef
lines were tied off on cleats on the boom, then the original downhaul
would be unaffected and shifting the sail foreward or aft by reefing
would be as much of a concern.
And now i wish everyone a balanced (lugger) and Merry Chiistmas!
Gary
>
>
Gary
Thanks for the pics both on line and those you sent to me.
Great sailing pics, looking at the water I would say 10-12 knots? The
rig conveys a sense of power, I would think that off the wind there
aren't many boats of the same length that would be able to sail with you.
Some questions
1. Keeping the luff tight on the wind would be important, how is this done?
2. This sail is non standard, there are not many sail makers with
experience in cutting one. Who did it for you and how did make the
decisions on draft, cloth weight, shape etc?
3. Are you happy with the performance all around? I would think that you
have lost some windward performance.
4. Ease of handling compared to a conventional Bermuda rig, single
handed and otherwise.
5. What would you change or do different?
I am not a big fan of going slow just because its a cruising boat. I
think boats out to be fast and weatherly and easy to handle first then
deal with the comfort angle last. How do you think your boat balances
the compromises.
Thank you for your responses, those pictures of a boat moving well in
the sun are a nice balance to a wet rainy Juneau day.
HJ
gbship wrote:
Thanks for the pics both on line and those you sent to me.
Great sailing pics, looking at the water I would say 10-12 knots? The
rig conveys a sense of power, I would think that off the wind there
aren't many boats of the same length that would be able to sail with you.
Some questions
1. Keeping the luff tight on the wind would be important, how is this done?
2. This sail is non standard, there are not many sail makers with
experience in cutting one. Who did it for you and how did make the
decisions on draft, cloth weight, shape etc?
3. Are you happy with the performance all around? I would think that you
have lost some windward performance.
4. Ease of handling compared to a conventional Bermuda rig, single
handed and otherwise.
5. What would you change or do different?
I am not a big fan of going slow just because its a cruising boat. I
think boats out to be fast and weatherly and easy to handle first then
deal with the comfort angle last. How do you think your boat balances
the compromises.
Thank you for your responses, those pictures of a boat moving well in
the sun are a nice balance to a wet rainy Juneau day.
HJ
gbship wrote:
> Harry:
> I just uploaded some. both sailing and detail pics of reefing
> arrangement to a Yahoo album. Check here:
>http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gbship/album?.dir=/962b&.src=ph
>
>
Gary--Neat boat; helpful pictures; thanks!
It looks like your balanced lug sail is nearly square (i.e. leach and luff
are nearly parallel). Reefing a sail of this shape doesn't move the
geometric center of the sail forward or aft--at least not very much. Some
balanced lugs are quite a bit narrower at the top than at the bottom, and
unless you take some care in locating where the reef pennants run to the
boom, it is possible to move the geometric center of the sail. My
experience has been that if you keep the leach reef pennant to the back of
the boom, the geometric center of the reefed sail will move aft, perhaps
increasing weather helm (which is a lot better than having the center move
forward producing a lee helm). I hasten to add that my experience is
limited to much smaller boats than LeDulcimer--a 12 ft dinghy and a 19 ft
shallow water cruiser, but I assume that the principle appplies regardless
of size.
John T
It looks like your balanced lug sail is nearly square (i.e. leach and luff
are nearly parallel). Reefing a sail of this shape doesn't move the
geometric center of the sail forward or aft--at least not very much. Some
balanced lugs are quite a bit narrower at the top than at the bottom, and
unless you take some care in locating where the reef pennants run to the
boom, it is possible to move the geometric center of the sail. My
experience has been that if you keep the leach reef pennant to the back of
the boom, the geometric center of the reefed sail will move aft, perhaps
increasing weather helm (which is a lot better than having the center move
forward producing a lee helm). I hasten to add that my experience is
limited to much smaller boats than LeDulcimer--a 12 ft dinghy and a 19 ft
shallow water cruiser, but I assume that the principle appplies regardless
of size.
John T
----- Original Message -----
From: "gbship" <gbship@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 24, 2005 2:26 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Reefing a balanced lug
> Harry:
> I just uploaded some. both sailing and detail pics of reefing
> arrangement to a Yahoo album. Check here:
> http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gbship/album?.dir=/962b&.src=ph
>
> Gary Blankenship
> --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@p...> wrote:
>>
>> Gary
>>
>> I was looking for pictures under sail, they didn't have to be with
> the
>> reef. I know I have seen some.
>>
>> HJ
>>
>> gbship wrote:
>> > ,
>> > Harry, I don't think there are any pictures of the reefing
> online,
>> > but I'll try to dig something up and e-mail them to you, as soon
> as
>> > the holiday rush slackens a bit.
>> >
>> > Gene, the sail is on a 30-footer. See some not-to-detailed
> drawing
>> > at:
>> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger_study_plans_only/files/Ostar%
>> > 2030%2C%20another%20design/
>> >
>> > Bolger did a column on the original version about 10 years ago,
> and
>> > another one on updates and changes in the June 1, 2005, edition.
>> >
>> > It does make a difference which reefing line is done first and
> mine
>> > is set up so the luff is reefed first, then the leech. That keeps
> the
>> > downhaul in about the same place, or moves it slightly forward
> which
>> > on this boat is better than having it move aft.
>> >
>> > Gary Blankenship
>> >
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
> horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.13.13/200 - Release Date:
> 12/14/2005
>
>
Harry:
I just uploaded some. both sailing and detail pics of reefing
arrangement to a Yahoo album. Check here:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gbship/album?.dir=/962b&.src=ph
Gary Blankenship
I just uploaded some. both sailing and detail pics of reefing
arrangement to a Yahoo album. Check here:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gbship/album?.dir=/962b&.src=ph
Gary Blankenship
--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@p...> wrote:
>
> Gary
>
> I was looking for pictures under sail, they didn't have to be with
the
> reef. I know I have seen some.
>
> HJ
>
> gbship wrote:
> > ,
> > Harry, I don't think there are any pictures of the reefing
online,
> > but I'll try to dig something up and e-mail them to you, as soon
as
> > the holiday rush slackens a bit.
> >
> > Gene, the sail is on a 30-footer. See some not-to-detailed
drawing
> > at:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger_study_plans_only/files/Ostar%
> > 2030%2C%20another%20design/
> >
> > Bolger did a column on the original version about 10 years ago,
and
> > another one on updates and changes in the June 1, 2005, edition.
> >
> > It does make a difference which reefing line is done first and
mine
> > is set up so the luff is reefed first, then the leech. That keeps
the
> > downhaul in about the same place, or moves it slightly forward
which
> > on this boat is better than having it move aft.
> >
> > Gary Blankenship
> >
>
Gary
I was looking for pictures under sail, they didn't have to be with the
reef. I know I have seen some.
HJ
gbship wrote:
I was looking for pictures under sail, they didn't have to be with the
reef. I know I have seen some.
HJ
gbship wrote:
> ,
> Harry, I don't think there are any pictures of the reefing online,
> but I'll try to dig something up and e-mail them to you, as soon as
> the holiday rush slackens a bit.
>
> Gene, the sail is on a 30-footer. See some not-to-detailed drawing
> at:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger_study_plans_only/files/Ostar%
> 2030%2C%20another%20design/
>
> Bolger did a column on the original version about 10 years ago, and
> another one on updates and changes in the June 1, 2005, edition.
>
> It does make a difference which reefing line is done first and mine
> is set up so the luff is reefed first, then the leech. That keeps the
> downhaul in about the same place, or moves it slightly forward which
> on this boat is better than having it move aft.
>
> Gary Blankenship
>
,
Harry, I don't think there are any pictures of the reefing online,
but I'll try to dig something up and e-mail them to you, as soon as
the holiday rush slackens a bit.
Gene, the sail is on a 30-footer. See some not-to-detailed drawing
at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger_study_plans_only/files/Ostar%
2030%2C%20another%20design/
Bolger did a column on the original version about 10 years ago, and
another one on updates and changes in the June 1, 2005, edition.
It does make a difference which reefing line is done first and mine
is set up so the luff is reefed first, then the leech. That keeps the
downhaul in about the same place, or moves it slightly forward which
on this boat is better than having it move aft.
Gary Blankenship
Harry, I don't think there are any pictures of the reefing online,
but I'll try to dig something up and e-mail them to you, as soon as
the holiday rush slackens a bit.
Gene, the sail is on a 30-footer. See some not-to-detailed drawing
at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger_study_plans_only/files/Ostar%
2030%2C%20another%20design/
Bolger did a column on the original version about 10 years ago, and
another one on updates and changes in the June 1, 2005, edition.
It does make a difference which reefing line is done first and mine
is set up so the luff is reefed first, then the leech. That keeps the
downhaul in about the same place, or moves it slightly forward which
on this boat is better than having it move aft.
Gary Blankenship
> What boat it this sail on? Is there an issue with the boom beingpulled forward or aft
> or is there a balance from the forward and aft reefing lines atthe central turning blocks?
> I see an advantage to lowering the boom. You lower the sail whichhas an advantage
> in the windy conditions. In light air, the sail is held high withless concern over the heeling
> moment.with
>
> Gene T.
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: gbship <gbship@c...>
> To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2005 23:47:09
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Reefing a balanced lug
>
> I've got a large (385 square feet) balanced ugger and it is rigged
> jiffy reefing with lines led back to the cockpit. Each line runsfrom
> the boom up through the reefing cringle, back down to a turningblock,
> then to another block at the base of the mast and then back to theuntil
> cockpit. The boat has an autopilot and to reef, the sail is eased
> the forward half is luffing, but the back is still drawing, whichkeeps
> the boat under control. Then the halyard is eased, the reef linesnote:
> pulled in, and the sail rehoisted --- all from the cockpit. One
> when rigged like this, the reefing lines become the new boomdownhaul,
> and the boom is lower when reefed than not reefed. If the reefinglines
> were tied off to cleats on the boom, that wouldn't be a problem. Iconvenience of
> think the tradeoff of the lower boom is worth it for the
> doing everything from the cockpit. There are three reefs in thesail,
> so there are six lines in all. Also, the ssail is loose footed,both
> reefed and unreefed.dead horses
>
> FWIW . . .
>
> Gary Blankenship
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, craig o'donnell <dadadata@f...> wrote:
Motorsailor?
http://tinyurl.com/9k2ka
I am interested in building a Windsprint to test this idea and
wondering how light the battens could be for this to work?
Nels
> You could rig a light batten witha couple small pullies (or slipperydown
> deadeyes) and pull and line to get the fore and aft ends of the reef
> to the boom, similar to what canoe sailors did, but simplified. It'sakin
> to what's been come to becalled "slab reefing".Is that like what PCB uses in his upgraded sailplan for the Alaskan
>
> Once you pull the venetian blinds down you can tie in reef points.
> --
> Craig O'Donnell
Motorsailor?
http://tinyurl.com/9k2ka
I am interested in building a Windsprint to test this idea and
wondering how light the battens could be for this to work?
Nels
>My Windsprint has two reef points in the balanced lug sail. I have toYou could rig a light batten witha couple small pullies (or slippery
>move the downhaul back on the boom when I reef or the balance is totally
>messed up.
>
>My outhauls run to cleats on the boom -- not a problem in my samll boat.
>However, I lace my sail to the boom, and so I have ties in the sail for
>reefing. These are pproblematic when reefing in a breeze, as I have to
>reach forward of the mast for a couple of them and if I'm the only
>person in the boat that is a tipsy proposition.
deadeyes) and pull and line to get the fore and aft ends of the reef down
to the boom, similar to what canoe sailors did, but simplified. It's akin
to what's been come to becalled "slab reefing".
Once you pull the venetian blinds down you can tie in reef points.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
My Windsprint has two reef points in the balanced lug sail. I have to
move the downhaul back on the boom when I reef or the balance is totally
messed up.
My outhauls run to cleats on the boom -- not a problem in my samll boat.
However, I lace my sail to the boom, and so I have ties in the sail for
reefing. These are pproblematic when reefing in a breeze, as I have to
reach forward of the mast for a couple of them and if I'm the only
person in the boat that is a tipsy proposition.
Pat
Gene T wrote:
move the downhaul back on the boom when I reef or the balance is totally
messed up.
My outhauls run to cleats on the boom -- not a problem in my samll boat.
However, I lace my sail to the boom, and so I have ties in the sail for
reefing. These are pproblematic when reefing in a breeze, as I have to
reach forward of the mast for a couple of them and if I'm the only
person in the boat that is a tipsy proposition.
Pat
Gene T wrote:
>Gary,
> What boat it this sail on? Is there an issue with the boom being pulled forward or aft
> or is there a balance from the forward and aft reefing lines at the central turning blocks?
> I see an advantage to lowering the boom. You lower the sail which has an advantage
> in the windy conditions. In light air, the sail is held high with less concern over the heeling
> moment.
>
> Gene T.
>
>----- Original Message ----
>From: gbship <gbship@...>
>To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2005 23:47:09
>Subject: [bolger] Re: Reefing a balanced lug
>
>I've got a large (385 square feet) balanced ugger and it is rigged with
>jiffy reefing with lines led back to the cockpit. Each line runs from
>the boom up through the reefing cringle, back down to a turning block,
>then to another block at the base of the mast and then back to the
>cockpit. The boat has an autopilot and to reef, the sail is eased until
>the forward half is luffing, but the back is still drawing, which keeps
>the boat under control. Then the halyard is eased, the reef lines
>pulled in, and the sail rehoisted --- all from the cockpit. One note:
>when rigged like this, the reefing lines become the new boom downhaul,
>and the boom is lower when reefed than not reefed. If the reefing lines
>were tied off to cleats on the boom, that wouldn't be a problem. I
>think the tradeoff of the lower boom is worth it for the convenience of
>doing everything from the cockpit. There are three reefs in the sail,
>so there are six lines in all. Also, the ssail is loose footed, both
>reefed and unreefed.
>
>FWIW . . .
>
>Gary Blankenship
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Gary,
What boat it this sail on? Is there an issue with the boom being pulled forward or aft
or is there a balance from the forward and aft reefing lines at the central turning blocks?
I see an advantage to lowering the boom. You lower the sail which has an advantage
in the windy conditions. In light air, the sail is held high with less concern over the heeling
moment.
Gene T.
----- Original Message ----
From: gbship <gbship@...>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2005 23:47:09
Subject: [bolger] Re: Reefing a balanced lug
I've got a large (385 square feet) balanced ugger and it is rigged with
jiffy reefing with lines led back to the cockpit. Each line runs from
the boom up through the reefing cringle, back down to a turning block,
then to another block at the base of the mast and then back to the
cockpit. The boat has an autopilot and to reef, the sail is eased until
the forward half is luffing, but the back is still drawing, which keeps
the boat under control. Then the halyard is eased, the reef lines
pulled in, and the sail rehoisted --- all from the cockpit. One note:
when rigged like this, the reefing lines become the new boom downhaul,
and the boom is lower when reefed than not reefed. If the reefing lines
were tied off to cleats on the boom, that wouldn't be a problem. I
think the tradeoff of the lower boom is worth it for the convenience of
doing everything from the cockpit. There are three reefs in the sail,
so there are six lines in all. Also, the ssail is loose footed, both
reefed and unreefed.
FWIW . . .
Gary Blankenship
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups Links
What boat it this sail on? Is there an issue with the boom being pulled forward or aft
or is there a balance from the forward and aft reefing lines at the central turning blocks?
I see an advantage to lowering the boom. You lower the sail which has an advantage
in the windy conditions. In light air, the sail is held high with less concern over the heeling
moment.
Gene T.
----- Original Message ----
From: gbship <gbship@...>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2005 23:47:09
Subject: [bolger] Re: Reefing a balanced lug
I've got a large (385 square feet) balanced ugger and it is rigged with
jiffy reefing with lines led back to the cockpit. Each line runs from
the boom up through the reefing cringle, back down to a turning block,
then to another block at the base of the mast and then back to the
cockpit. The boat has an autopilot and to reef, the sail is eased until
the forward half is luffing, but the back is still drawing, which keeps
the boat under control. Then the halyard is eased, the reef lines
pulled in, and the sail rehoisted --- all from the cockpit. One note:
when rigged like this, the reefing lines become the new boom downhaul,
and the boom is lower when reefed than not reefed. If the reefing lines
were tied off to cleats on the boom, that wouldn't be a problem. I
think the tradeoff of the lower boom is worth it for the convenience of
doing everything from the cockpit. There are three reefs in the sail,
so there are six lines in all. Also, the ssail is loose footed, both
reefed and unreefed.
FWIW . . .
Gary Blankenship
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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Gary
You have some pictures on line of your rig, are they in the Bolger files
or elsewhere. Time to save them down into my files.
HJ
gbship wrote:
You have some pictures on line of your rig, are they in the Bolger files
or elsewhere. Time to save them down into my files.
HJ
gbship wrote:
> I've got a large (385 square feet) balanced ugger and it is rigged with
> jiffy reefing with lines led back to the cockpit. Each line runs from
> the boom up through the reefing cringle, back down to a turning block,
> then to another block at the base of the mast and then back to the
> cockpit. The boat has an autopilot and to reef, the sail is eased until
> the forward half is luffing, but the back is still drawing, which keeps
> the boat under control. Then the halyard is eased, the reef lines
> pulled in, and the sail rehoisted --- all from the cockpit. One note:
> when rigged like this, the reefing lines become the new boom downhaul,
> and the boom is lower when reefed than not reefed. If the reefing lines
> were tied off to cleats on the boom, that wouldn't be a problem. I
> think the tradeoff of the lower boom is worth it for the convenience of
> doing everything from the cockpit. There are three reefs in the sail,
> so there are six lines in all. Also, the ssail is loose footed, both
> reefed and unreefed.
>
> FWIW . . .
>
> Gary Blankenship
>
>
>
I've got a large (385 square feet) balanced ugger and it is rigged with
jiffy reefing with lines led back to the cockpit. Each line runs from
the boom up through the reefing cringle, back down to a turning block,
then to another block at the base of the mast and then back to the
cockpit. The boat has an autopilot and to reef, the sail is eased until
the forward half is luffing, but the back is still drawing, which keeps
the boat under control. Then the halyard is eased, the reef lines
pulled in, and the sail rehoisted --- all from the cockpit. One note:
when rigged like this, the reefing lines become the new boom downhaul,
and the boom is lower when reefed than not reefed. If the reefing lines
were tied off to cleats on the boom, that wouldn't be a problem. I
think the tradeoff of the lower boom is worth it for the convenience of
doing everything from the cockpit. There are three reefs in the sail,
so there are six lines in all. Also, the ssail is loose footed, both
reefed and unreefed.
FWIW . . .
Gary Blankenship
jiffy reefing with lines led back to the cockpit. Each line runs from
the boom up through the reefing cringle, back down to a turning block,
then to another block at the base of the mast and then back to the
cockpit. The boat has an autopilot and to reef, the sail is eased until
the forward half is luffing, but the back is still drawing, which keeps
the boat under control. Then the halyard is eased, the reef lines
pulled in, and the sail rehoisted --- all from the cockpit. One note:
when rigged like this, the reefing lines become the new boom downhaul,
and the boom is lower when reefed than not reefed. If the reefing lines
were tied off to cleats on the boom, that wouldn't be a problem. I
think the tradeoff of the lower boom is worth it for the convenience of
doing everything from the cockpit. There are three reefs in the sail,
so there are six lines in all. Also, the ssail is loose footed, both
reefed and unreefed.
FWIW . . .
Gary Blankenship
>Hmmm, Only 322 words and a good explanation. Thanks, Lewis
> Hmmm, sorry, no pix; have to try a thousand words instead.
>
> Effective reefing is one of the reasons that the balanced lug is mybystanders).
> favorite little boat rig. The reefs are installed parallel to the foot
> or a little kicked up at the leech. How high is optional; I like each
> reef to reduce the existing sail area by about 20%. So the tack and
> clew cringles go in the new corners, heavily reinforced, with reef
> points between, every couple of feet or so. Points can be the
> traditional dangling strings, or a button on one side and a loop on
> the other works too (if you alternate sides on each reef, you'll never
> get confused and tie the first reef to the second...)
>
> To tuck in a reef, drop the sail and lash the reef tack cringle down
> to the boom or the primary tack grommet, then pull the reef band out
> snugly with an outhaul to the primary clew grommet and lash it down
> around the bundled-up foot of the sail. Do up the reef points and
> hoist away. You could set up a slab reef system with the tack and clew
> pennants in place all the time, but it seems like a bother to me; I
> just keep some strings handy and use those.
>
> The balanced lug uses lighter spars than most comparable rigs and is
> easy to drop and hoist. If you seize a thimble onto the yard at the
> halyard attachment, then you can run the halyard through the thimble
> and tie a loose bowline around the mast; that holds the yard in to the
> mast on its way up and down, and lets you pull the rig back to the
> middle of the boat to work on it. Have a long tail on the downhaul
> tackle too, easy to haul, cleat, and release.
>
> The second reef on my Cartopper was just under the throat, and turned
> the sail into a lateen (prompting some puzzled comments from
>
> cheers,
>
> Lynn
>
>Effective reefing is one of the reasons that the balanced lug is myBattens can be used along the reefing lines as well. They cna be stiff
>favorite little boat rig. The reefs are installed parallel to the foot
>or a little kicked up at the leech. How high is optional; I like each
>reef to reduce the existing sail area by about 20%. So the tack and
>clew cringles go in the new corners, heavily reinforced, with reef
>points between, every couple of feet or so. Points can be the
>traditional dangling strings, or a button on one side and a loop on
>the other works too (if you alternate sides on each reef, you'll never
>get confused and tie the first reef to the second...)
(Chinese lug) or very flexible, or in between. ON SMALL LUGS IT'S TECHCANL
-- oops, the cat has attacked -- technically possible to use zippers.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry Jamers <welshman@p...> wrote:
Effective reefing is one of the reasons that the balanced lug is my
favorite little boat rig. The reefs are installed parallel to the foot
or a little kicked up at the leech. How high is optional; I like each
reef to reduce the existing sail area by about 20%. So the tack and
clew cringles go in the new corners, heavily reinforced, with reef
points between, every couple of feet or so. Points can be the
traditional dangling strings, or a button on one side and a loop on
the other works too (if you alternate sides on each reef, you'll never
get confused and tie the first reef to the second...)
To tuck in a reef, drop the sail and lash the reef tack cringle down
to the boom or the primary tack grommet, then pull the reef band out
snugly with an outhaul to the primary clew grommet and lash it down
around the bundled-up foot of the sail. Do up the reef points and
hoist away. You could set up a slab reef system with the tack and clew
pennants in place all the time, but it seems like a bother to me; I
just keep some strings handy and use those.
The balanced lug uses lighter spars than most comparable rigs and is
easy to drop and hoist. If you seize a thimble onto the yard at the
halyard attachment, then you can run the halyard through the thimble
and tie a loose bowline around the mast; that holds the yard in to the
mast on its way up and down, and lets you pull the rig back to the
middle of the boat to work on it. Have a long tail on the downhaul
tackle too, easy to haul, cleat, and release.
The second reef on my Cartopper was just under the throat, and turned
the sail into a lateen (prompting some puzzled comments from bystanders).
cheers,
Lynn
>Hmmm, sorry, no pix; have to try a thousand words instead.
> How do you reef a balanced lug, any pictures?
>
> HJ
Effective reefing is one of the reasons that the balanced lug is my
favorite little boat rig. The reefs are installed parallel to the foot
or a little kicked up at the leech. How high is optional; I like each
reef to reduce the existing sail area by about 20%. So the tack and
clew cringles go in the new corners, heavily reinforced, with reef
points between, every couple of feet or so. Points can be the
traditional dangling strings, or a button on one side and a loop on
the other works too (if you alternate sides on each reef, you'll never
get confused and tie the first reef to the second...)
To tuck in a reef, drop the sail and lash the reef tack cringle down
to the boom or the primary tack grommet, then pull the reef band out
snugly with an outhaul to the primary clew grommet and lash it down
around the bundled-up foot of the sail. Do up the reef points and
hoist away. You could set up a slab reef system with the tack and clew
pennants in place all the time, but it seems like a bother to me; I
just keep some strings handy and use those.
The balanced lug uses lighter spars than most comparable rigs and is
easy to drop and hoist. If you seize a thimble onto the yard at the
halyard attachment, then you can run the halyard through the thimble
and tie a loose bowline around the mast; that holds the yard in to the
mast on its way up and down, and lets you pull the rig back to the
middle of the boat to work on it. Have a long tail on the downhaul
tackle too, easy to haul, cleat, and release.
The second reef on my Cartopper was just under the throat, and turned
the sail into a lateen (prompting some puzzled comments from bystanders).
cheers,
Lynn
How do you reef a balanced lug, any pictures?
HJ
Lynn Watson wrote:
HJ
Lynn Watson wrote:
>> ...if you need to reef that little 59 sq footer, it may be too windy...
>>
>
>
> Oh, I don't know about that. Given a warm summer day on an inland
> lake, sailing a little boat in a stinking breeze is a gas! I've been
> out in my old Cartopper with 2 reefs tucked into a balanced lug main
> on days when the windsurfers were standing on the dock, scratching
> their heads and looking worried. It's not often we get to leave
> those guys in the dust.
>
> By all means -- put reefs in your little sail and go out when it's
> howling (or tuck the reefs in when the breeze comes up and you're out
> on the water, and come home safe and happy)
>
> That said, a jib-headed sail with a sprit boom is not the world's
> easiest sail to reef. Matter of fact, it's a pain in the butt; but
> better than sailing upside down ;-)
>
> cheers,
>
> Lynn
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>...if you need to reef that little 59 sq footer, it may be too windy...Oh, I don't know about that. Given a warm summer day on an inland
lake, sailing a little boat in a stinking breeze is a gas! I've been
out in my old Cartopper with 2 reefs tucked into a balanced lug main
on days when the windsurfers were standing on the dock, scratching
their heads and looking worried. It's not often we get to leave
those guys in the dust.
By all means -- put reefs in your little sail and go out when it's
howling (or tuck the reefs in when the breeze comes up and you're out
on the water, and come home safe and happy)
That said, a jib-headed sail with a sprit boom is not the world's
easiest sail to reef. Matter of fact, it's a pain in the butt; but
better than sailing upside down ;-)
cheers,
Lynn
I'm only being slightly facetious in suggesting that if you need to reef
that little 59 sq footer, it may be too windy to be sailing such a small
boat! Bolger's 15' GYPSY has been reputed to be a bit underpowered with the
same sail. YMMV, of course.
Instead of reefing, Bolger suggests hardening up the snotter to flatten and
depower the sail, and to never, never cleat the sheet.
JB
that little 59 sq footer, it may be too windy to be sailing such a small
boat! Bolger's 15' GYPSY has been reputed to be a bit underpowered with the
same sail. YMMV, of course.
Instead of reefing, Bolger suggests hardening up the snotter to flatten and
depower the sail, and to never, never cleat the sheet.
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: <catboat15@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, December 19, 2005 2:49 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Reefing leg-o-mutton sail
>
> In a message dated 12/19/2005 7:11:06 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
>bolger@yahoogroups.comwrites:
>
> There is no provision in the sail for reefing.
> It is intended to be lashed to the mast and wrapped around the mast
> for storing. After the first wrap the snotter will be covered so
> wrapping isn't practical for reefing. Any suggeations for parctical
> reefing?
>
>
>
> In Payson's book "New Instant Boats" he shows a method of lacing a sail to
> the mast with ties that allow lowering the sail with a halyard. On my
Swifty I
> used that system and with the addition of reef points it should work for a
> car topper sail for reefing. How to secure the sail to the sprit boom at
some
> intermediate place and retain the self vanging properties is left as an
> exercise for the student. With the halyard system it is a lot easier to
step the
> mast with the sail bunched in the cockpit than wrestle the many yards of
canvas
> in a breeze.
>
> John Meacham
> High desert of California
> Bolger Cartopper.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
In a message dated 12/19/2005 7:11:06 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
bolger@yahoogroups.comwrites:
There is no provision in the sail for reefing.
It is intended to be lashed to the mast and wrapped around the mast
for storing. After the first wrap the snotter will be covered so
wrapping isn't practical for reefing. Any suggeations for parctical
reefing?
In Payson's book "New Instant Boats" he shows a method of lacing a sail to
the mast with ties that allow lowering the sail with a halyard. On my Swifty I
used that system and with the addition of reef points it should work for a
car topper sail for reefing. How to secure the sail to the sprit boom at some
intermediate place and retain the self vanging properties is left as an
exercise for the student. With the halyard system it is a lot easier to step the
mast with the sail bunched in the cockpit than wrestle the many yards of canvas
in a breeze.
John Meacham
High desert of California
Bolger Cartopper.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
bolger@yahoogroups.comwrites:
There is no provision in the sail for reefing.
It is intended to be lashed to the mast and wrapped around the mast
for storing. After the first wrap the snotter will be covered so
wrapping isn't practical for reefing. Any suggeations for parctical
reefing?
In Payson's book "New Instant Boats" he shows a method of lacing a sail to
the mast with ties that allow lowering the sail with a halyard. On my Swifty I
used that system and with the addition of reef points it should work for a
car topper sail for reefing. How to secure the sail to the sprit boom at some
intermediate place and retain the self vanging properties is left as an
exercise for the student. With the halyard system it is a lot easier to step the
mast with the sail bunched in the cockpit than wrestle the many yards of canvas
in a breeze.
John Meacham
High desert of California
Bolger Cartopper.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]