Re: what weight fiberglass
Just my opinion, but...
I haven't been following this thread very closely, so I may have
missed something, but I have to ask why you want to use cotton?
By the time you've paid the big bucks for epoxy, the cost of
fibreglass cloth is peanuts. If you want to use cotton,why not go
all the way and use paint, like the old canvassed decks, or canoes?
Or just paint the plywood. A little checking isn't serious, and if
you store it out of the sun and cover it in winter, a little is
about all you should get. Our elegant punt is about to turn 9, and
it's working just fine. Some checking showed up in the last couple
of years but the wood is still sound.
Jamie
I haven't been following this thread very closely, so I may have
missed something, but I have to ask why you want to use cotton?
By the time you've paid the big bucks for epoxy, the cost of
fibreglass cloth is peanuts. If you want to use cotton,why not go
all the way and use paint, like the old canvassed decks, or canoes?
Or just paint the plywood. A little checking isn't serious, and if
you store it out of the sun and cover it in winter, a little is
about all you should get. Our elegant punt is about to turn 9, and
it's working just fine. Some checking showed up in the last couple
of years but the wood is still sound.
Jamie
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Doug Pollard <dougpol1@a...> wrote:
>
> Sounds good to me I'm going to do just that. I will give the
wood a
> sqweeged on coat of epoxy first.
>
> Doug
>
> bruce couchman wrote:
>
> > Doug: The area I was applying it to was about 5'x5'. It was
therefore
> > easy to roll on the epoxy, drap the cotton sheeting and stretch
and
> > smooth it out with a squegee. With a moderate initial
application of
> > epoxy the fabric 'tacks' down and when it takes its initial set
add
> > more epoxy to fill. Do remember that in my case, I had previously
> > epoxied the deck so it been primed and did not soak up too much
of the
> > new coating.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or
flogging
> > dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip
away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930,
> > Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-------
> > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
> >
> > * Visit your group "bolger
> > <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger>" on the web.
> >
> > * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?
subject=Unsubscribe>
> >
> > * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms
of
> > Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
> >
> >
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-------
> >
> >------------------------------------------------------------------
------
> >
> >No virus found in this incoming message.
> >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> >Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.14/222 - Release Date:
1/5/2006
> >
> >
>
Sounds good to me I'm going to do just that. I will give the wood a
sqweeged on coat of epoxy first.
Doug
bruce couchman wrote:
sqweeged on coat of epoxy first.
Doug
bruce couchman wrote:
> Doug: The area I was applying it to was about 5'x5'. It was therefore
> easy to roll on the epoxy, drap the cotton sheeting and stretch and
> smooth it out with a squegee. With a moderate initial application of
> epoxy the fabric 'tacks' down and when it takes its initial set add
> more epoxy to fill. Do remember that in my case, I had previously
> epoxied the deck so it been primed and did not soak up too much of the
> new coating.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging
> dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
> * Visit your group "bolger
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger>" on the web.
>
> * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
>
> * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.14/222 - Release Date: 1/5/2006
>
>
Doug: The area I was applying it to was about 5'x5'. It was therefore
easy to roll on the epoxy, drap the cotton sheeting and stretch and
smooth it out with a squegee. With a moderate initial application of
epoxy the fabric 'tacks' down and when it takes its initial set add
more epoxy to fill. Do remember that in my case, I had previously
epoxied the deck so it been primed and did not soak up too much of the
new coating.
easy to roll on the epoxy, drap the cotton sheeting and stretch and
smooth it out with a squegee. With a moderate initial application of
epoxy the fabric 'tacks' down and when it takes its initial set add
more epoxy to fill. Do remember that in my case, I had previously
epoxied the deck so it been primed and did not soak up too much of the
new coating.
> some form of household cloth.On portions of my Michalak Roar, I used a ripped up polyester dress
shirt embedded in left over house paint. Five years later it is still
holding. I wouldn't do it this way on a bigger or fancier boat, but
on a cheap disposable boat I have not regret.
> some cheaper material would be great for the topsideBe aware that topsides leaks [from rainwater] can be very aggravating!
Bruce,
Hey thats a good idea, using some form of household cloth. In 1955
when in my late teens and elderly gentalman that I grew up sailing with
gave me his boat in gratitude for taking him sailing when he otherwise
would not been able to. The boat was a 1904 Hershoff open racing boat
34ft long. He had added a small cabin and her topsides were covered with
canvas and painted. I redid the topsides at that time. They held up
over twenty years before redoing. On installation the canvas was
whetted down and the excess water scraped off with a squeegee and then
painted and of course the canvas was set in wet paint. The idea was to
keep the paint from soaking in so that the canvas would not crack. Of
course the material cracking is not a problem with epoxy.
My question is how did you apply the cloth and epoxy, did you apply
the cloth dry and pour and sqweege the epoxy on just like you would
with glass? I am building an Elver and she was designed to be built
without a glass coating for strength. I have glassed the bottom and will
glass the sides but some cheaper material would be great for the
topsides and inside the cockpit where she will be exposed to weather.
The old Hershoff boat was lightly built with 1/2 in. planking over
very light and flexible steam bent frames. She wracked and twisted when
driven hard and was subject to dropping caulking and leaking like a
seive. I later replaced her with a plywood boat that was covered in
glass. You can't imagine how comforting it was to not have to keep an
eye on the bilges to see if we were taking water.
Doug
bruce couchman wrote:
Hey thats a good idea, using some form of household cloth. In 1955
when in my late teens and elderly gentalman that I grew up sailing with
gave me his boat in gratitude for taking him sailing when he otherwise
would not been able to. The boat was a 1904 Hershoff open racing boat
34ft long. He had added a small cabin and her topsides were covered with
canvas and painted. I redid the topsides at that time. They held up
over twenty years before redoing. On installation the canvas was
whetted down and the excess water scraped off with a squeegee and then
painted and of course the canvas was set in wet paint. The idea was to
keep the paint from soaking in so that the canvas would not crack. Of
course the material cracking is not a problem with epoxy.
My question is how did you apply the cloth and epoxy, did you apply
the cloth dry and pour and sqweege the epoxy on just like you would
with glass? I am building an Elver and she was designed to be built
without a glass coating for strength. I have glassed the bottom and will
glass the sides but some cheaper material would be great for the
topsides and inside the cockpit where she will be exposed to weather.
The old Hershoff boat was lightly built with 1/2 in. planking over
very light and flexible steam bent frames. She wracked and twisted when
driven hard and was subject to dropping caulking and leaking like a
seive. I later replaced her with a plywood boat that was covered in
glass. You can't imagine how comforting it was to not have to keep an
eye on the bilges to see if we were taking water.
Doug
bruce couchman wrote:
> This is probably a small point but there seems to be a side to the
> question that is not being addressed. That is the need to have a
> sufficient epoxy covering of the 'ply'wood to limit moisture
> absorbtion. I have a 35 year old San Francisco Pelican constructed of
> douglas fir marine ply which, when I bought it, had lost all paint on
> the decks. In refurbishing the boat I epoxy coated the badly checked
> decks and the next season those checks had come through again. This
> time after removing the paint I laid cotton bed sheeting in the epoxy
> added another coat, sanded, painted and ten years later still no checks.
>
> The point of all this is that for coating thickness and integrity you
> don't need fiberglass. Dynel, dacron or even cotton will work. If you
> want added strength go with glass or kevlar, for abrasion resistence
> dynel may be just the thing.
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging
> dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
> * Visit your group "bolger
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger>" on the web.
>
> * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
>
> * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
This is probably a small point but there seems to be a side to the
question that is not being addressed. That is the need to have a
sufficient epoxy covering of the 'ply'wood to limit moisture
absorbtion. I have a 35 year old San Francisco Pelican constructed of
douglas fir marine ply which, when I bought it, had lost all paint on
the decks. In refurbishing the boat I epoxy coated the badly checked
decks and the next season those checks had come through again. This
time after removing the paint I laid cotton bed sheeting in the epoxy
added another coat, sanded, painted and ten years later still no checks.
The point of all this is that for coating thickness and integrity you
don't need fiberglass. Dynel, dacron or even cotton will work. If you
want added strength go with glass or kevlar, for abrasion resistence
dynel may be just the thing.
question that is not being addressed. That is the need to have a
sufficient epoxy covering of the 'ply'wood to limit moisture
absorbtion. I have a 35 year old San Francisco Pelican constructed of
douglas fir marine ply which, when I bought it, had lost all paint on
the decks. In refurbishing the boat I epoxy coated the badly checked
decks and the next season those checks had come through again. This
time after removing the paint I laid cotton bed sheeting in the epoxy
added another coat, sanded, painted and ten years later still no checks.
The point of all this is that for coating thickness and integrity you
don't need fiberglass. Dynel, dacron or even cotton will work. If you
want added strength go with glass or kevlar, for abrasion resistence
dynel may be just the thing.