Re: [bolger] Cotton Cloth with Epoxe
If the object is to prevent checking of fir plywood, cotton cloth may
not be strong enough. I used 2.5 oz glass cloth (against the good advice
of the vendor) and the fir plywood checked right throught he GRP in the
first seaon of use.
Patrick
John B. Trussell wrote:
not be strong enough. I used 2.5 oz glass cloth (against the good advice
of the vendor) and the fir plywood checked right throught he GRP in the
first seaon of use.
Patrick
John B. Trussell wrote:
>Our British cousins refer (accurately) to fiberglass as "glass reinforced
>plastic" or GRP. I once wrote a letter to "Woodenboat" suggesting that they
>change the name of cold-molded plywood to WRP or wood reinforced plastic and
>told them that I had developed a new construction ttechnique using wooden
>lathes and concrete (which I called "arbor cement"). I never heard back
>from them and I gather that they were not amused.
>
>The use of fabric coverings with paint or glue has a fairly long history to
>include such things as paper canoes, canvas covered decks, canvas covered
>small boats, and double planked boats with a layer of fabric (muslin) in
>between the layers. If the object of the exercise in sheathing is to
>prevent checking, any fairly light cloth ought to do the job and old bed
>sheets are a lot cheaper than glass cloth.
>
>JohnT
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Doug Pollard" <dougpol1@...>
>To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 6:34 PM
>Subject: Re: [bolger] Cotton Cloth with Epoxe
>
>
>
>
>> I bet it does shrink when epoxied. I coated a canvas covered canoe
>>with airplane dope when I was a boy.. You could hear the wood creaking
>>as it contracted. I painted over it and it held up for many years.
>>
>> Doug
>>Richard Jernigan wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>> Something to bear in mind when using cotton cloth with any plastic
>>>resin ... cotton fibres absorbe the resin and swell up - thus each
>>>fibre becomes shorter and the overall length/width of the cloth becomes
>>>LESS. This can put great tension on the cloth and pull it free of an
>>>underlying surface - or if planned for, contribute to bonding and
>>>strength. Coarse weave cloths can also 'fuzz up' pretty badly & require
>>>touch sanding before painting.
>>>
>>> As an aside, I once made a 16 foot doorskin / epoxe-cloth flat
>>>bottom narrow dink & used faux 'satin' sheets (old / used) on the
>>>bottom ... pulled up really tight with a great bond & talk about
>>>SLICK! ... would barely hold the bottom paint.
>>>
>>> Used bed sheets work great for boat interiors ... just remember
>>>that the cloths tend to "draw up" as they wet out ... and stay 'drawn
>>>up' when the resin cures. One can use indellable magic markers to draw
>>>designs or even woodgrain or boards on the sheets ... sheets can be
>>>dyed (ritt dyes work good) before bonding - just be certain that the
>>>sheets are completely rinsed and dried before wetting out with
>>>resin.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Bolger rules!!!
>>>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging
>>>dead horses
>>>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>>>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>>>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
>>>Fax: (978) 282-1349
>>>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>SPONSORED LINKS
>>>Boating safety
>>><http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Boating+safety&w1=Boating+safety&w2=Alaska+outdoors&w3=Boating+magazine&w4=Great+outdoors&c=4&s=83&.sig=r49p2sdeaMdE-HKp6VsBvQ>
>>>Alaska outdoors
>>><http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Alaska+outdoors&w1=Boating+safety&w2=Alaska+outdoors&w3=Boating+magazine&w4=Great+outdoors&c=4&s=83&.sig=DMVKSdfVjcXwtIGevXt4yA>
>>>Boating magazine
>>><http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Boating+magazine&w1=Boating+safety&w2=Alaska+outdoors&w3=Boating+magazine&w4=Great+outdoors&c=4&s=83&.sig=4i1edadVuO4gEFWwcL_-EQ>
>>>
>>>Great outdoors
>>><http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Great+outdoors&w1=Boating+safety&w2=Alaska+outdoors&w3=Boating+magazine&w4=Great+outdoors&c=4&s=83&.sig=9lzoUcWE8Vy43nP6bzMgMQ>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>>No virus found in this incoming message.
>>>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>>>Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.14/222 - Release Date: 1/5/2006
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>Bolger rules!!!
>>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
>>horses
>>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
>>(978) 282-1349
>>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>--
>>Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
>>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>>Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.9/217 - Release Date: 12/30/2005
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John B. Trussell"
<John.Trussell@w...> wrote:
If the object of the exercise in sheathing is to
part epoxy paint. There is a PDF instruction brochure here:
http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=59&SBL=1
My next door neighbour gets some of this stuff for free from his
work place. They use a lot and when it time expires they give him
orders to haul it away for "proper disposal" and some ends up on his
garage floor - and mine too:-P
It has stood up for over ten years on the garage floor and after
repainting it again this year, I tried it on an add-on small deck at
the front entrance. The deck was constructed from G1S 3/4" MDO,
painted with the two-part epoxy Rust-Oleum. (The uderside and
sleepers were sealed with a solid wood stain.) Then I sprinkled on
some sand-blasting particles and painted another coat over it when
the first coat became hard, but still tacky. I used a roller and an
extension handle so did not even have to bend over.
Now I see there is a water-based version which I plan to use on my
next project. I already have the MDO and I may not even glass it at
all. Just paint it and for abrasion resistance on the bottom add
some carbon powder to the second coat.
Nels
<John.Trussell@w...> wrote:
If the object of the exercise in sheathing is to
> prevent checking, any fairly light cloth ought to do the job andold bed
> sheets are a lot cheaper than glass cloth.Instead of using epoxy, a person might consider using Rust-Oleum 2-
>
> JohnT
part epoxy paint. There is a PDF instruction brochure here:
http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=59&SBL=1
My next door neighbour gets some of this stuff for free from his
work place. They use a lot and when it time expires they give him
orders to haul it away for "proper disposal" and some ends up on his
garage floor - and mine too:-P
It has stood up for over ten years on the garage floor and after
repainting it again this year, I tried it on an add-on small deck at
the front entrance. The deck was constructed from G1S 3/4" MDO,
painted with the two-part epoxy Rust-Oleum. (The uderside and
sleepers were sealed with a solid wood stain.) Then I sprinkled on
some sand-blasting particles and painted another coat over it when
the first coat became hard, but still tacky. I used a roller and an
extension handle so did not even have to bend over.
Now I see there is a water-based version which I plan to use on my
next project. I already have the MDO and I may not even glass it at
all. Just paint it and for abrasion resistance on the bottom add
some carbon powder to the second coat.
Nels
Our British cousins refer (accurately) to fiberglass as "glass reinforced
plastic" or GRP. I once wrote a letter to "Woodenboat" suggesting that they
change the name of cold-molded plywood to WRP or wood reinforced plastic and
told them that I had developed a new construction ttechnique using wooden
lathes and concrete (which I called "arbor cement"). I never heard back
from them and I gather that they were not amused.
The use of fabric coverings with paint or glue has a fairly long history to
include such things as paper canoes, canvas covered decks, canvas covered
small boats, and double planked boats with a layer of fabric (muslin) in
between the layers. If the object of the exercise in sheathing is to
prevent checking, any fairly light cloth ought to do the job and old bed
sheets are a lot cheaper than glass cloth.
JohnT
plastic" or GRP. I once wrote a letter to "Woodenboat" suggesting that they
change the name of cold-molded plywood to WRP or wood reinforced plastic and
told them that I had developed a new construction ttechnique using wooden
lathes and concrete (which I called "arbor cement"). I never heard back
from them and I gather that they were not amused.
The use of fabric coverings with paint or glue has a fairly long history to
include such things as paper canoes, canvas covered decks, canvas covered
small boats, and double planked boats with a layer of fabric (muslin) in
between the layers. If the object of the exercise in sheathing is to
prevent checking, any fairly light cloth ought to do the job and old bed
sheets are a lot cheaper than glass cloth.
JohnT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Pollard" <dougpol1@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Cotton Cloth with Epoxe
> I bet it does shrink when epoxied. I coated a canvas covered canoe
> with airplane dope when I was a boy.. You could hear the wood creaking
> as it contracted. I painted over it and it held up for many years.
>
> Doug
> Richard Jernigan wrote:
>
>> Something to bear in mind when using cotton cloth with any plastic
>> resin ... cotton fibres absorbe the resin and swell up - thus each
>> fibre becomes shorter and the overall length/width of the cloth becomes
>> LESS. This can put great tension on the cloth and pull it free of an
>> underlying surface - or if planned for, contribute to bonding and
>> strength. Coarse weave cloths can also 'fuzz up' pretty badly & require
>> touch sanding before painting.
>>
>> As an aside, I once made a 16 foot doorskin / epoxe-cloth flat
>> bottom narrow dink & used faux 'satin' sheets (old / used) on the
>> bottom ... pulled up really tight with a great bond & talk about
>> SLICK! ... would barely hold the bottom paint.
>>
>> Used bed sheets work great for boat interiors ... just remember
>> that the cloths tend to "draw up" as they wet out ... and stay 'drawn
>> up' when the resin cures. One can use indellable magic markers to draw
>> designs or even woodgrain or boards on the sheets ... sheets can be
>> dyed (ritt dyes work good) before bonding - just be certain that the
>> sheets are completely rinsed and dried before wetting out with
>> resin.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Bolger rules!!!
>> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging
>> dead horses
>> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
>> Fax: (978) 282-1349
>> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>> SPONSORED LINKS
>> Boating safety
>> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Boating+safety&w1=Boating+safety&w2=Alaska+outdoors&w3=Boating+magazine&w4=Great+outdoors&c=4&s=83&.sig=r49p2sdeaMdE-HKp6VsBvQ>
>> Alaska outdoors
>> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Alaska+outdoors&w1=Boating+safety&w2=Alaska+outdoors&w3=Boating+magazine&w4=Great+outdoors&c=4&s=83&.sig=DMVKSdfVjcXwtIGevXt4yA>
>> Boating magazine
>> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Boating+magazine&w1=Boating+safety&w2=Alaska+outdoors&w3=Boating+magazine&w4=Great+outdoors&c=4&s=83&.sig=4i1edadVuO4gEFWwcL_-EQ>
>>
>> Great outdoors
>> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Great+outdoors&w1=Boating+safety&w2=Alaska+outdoors&w3=Boating+magazine&w4=Great+outdoors&c=4&s=83&.sig=9lzoUcWE8Vy43nP6bzMgMQ>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>>
>> * Visit your group "bolger
>> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger>" on the web.
>>
>> * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>No virus found in this incoming message.
>>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>>Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.14/222 - Release Date: 1/5/2006
>>
>>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
> horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.9/217 - Release Date: 12/30/2005
>
>
I bet it does shrink when epoxied. I coated a canvas covered canoe
with airplane dope when I was a boy.. You could hear the wood creaking
as it contracted. I painted over it and it held up for many years.
Doug
Richard Jernigan wrote:
with airplane dope when I was a boy.. You could hear the wood creaking
as it contracted. I painted over it and it held up for many years.
Doug
Richard Jernigan wrote:
> Something to bear in mind when using cotton cloth with any plastic
> resin ... cotton fibres absorbe the resin and swell up - thus each
> fibre becomes shorter and the overall length/width of the cloth becomes
> LESS. This can put great tension on the cloth and pull it free of an
> underlying surface - or if planned for, contribute to bonding and
> strength. Coarse weave cloths can also 'fuzz up' pretty badly & require
> touch sanding before painting.
>
> As an aside, I once made a 16 foot doorskin / epoxe-cloth flat
> bottom narrow dink & used faux 'satin' sheets (old / used) on the
> bottom ... pulled up really tight with a great bond & talk about
> SLICK! ... would barely hold the bottom paint.
>
> Used bed sheets work great for boat interiors ... just remember
> that the cloths tend to "draw up" as they wet out ... and stay 'drawn
> up' when the resin cures. One can use indellable magic markers to draw
> designs or even woodgrain or boards on the sheets ... sheets can be
> dyed (ritt dyes work good) before bonding - just be certain that the
> sheets are completely rinsed and dried before wetting out with
> resin.
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging
> dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Boating safety
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Boating+safety&w1=Boating+safety&w2=Alaska+outdoors&w3=Boating+magazine&w4=Great+outdoors&c=4&s=83&.sig=r49p2sdeaMdE-HKp6VsBvQ>
> Alaska outdoors
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Alaska+outdoors&w1=Boating+safety&w2=Alaska+outdoors&w3=Boating+magazine&w4=Great+outdoors&c=4&s=83&.sig=DMVKSdfVjcXwtIGevXt4yA>
> Boating magazine
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Boating+magazine&w1=Boating+safety&w2=Alaska+outdoors&w3=Boating+magazine&w4=Great+outdoors&c=4&s=83&.sig=4i1edadVuO4gEFWwcL_-EQ>
>
> Great outdoors
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Great+outdoors&w1=Boating+safety&w2=Alaska+outdoors&w3=Boating+magazine&w4=Great+outdoors&c=4&s=83&.sig=9lzoUcWE8Vy43nP6bzMgMQ>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
> * Visit your group "bolger
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger>" on the web.
>
> * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
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> Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
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> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.14/222 - Release Date: 1/5/2006
>
>
Something to bear in mind when using cotton cloth with any plastic
resin ... cotton fibres absorbe the resin and swell up - thus each
fibre becomes shorter and the overall length/width of the cloth becomes
LESS. This can put great tension on the cloth and pull it free of an
underlying surface - or if planned for, contribute to bonding and
strength. Coarse weave cloths can also 'fuzz up' pretty badly & require
touch sanding before painting.
As an aside, I once made a 16 foot doorskin / epoxe-cloth flat
bottom narrow dink & used faux 'satin' sheets (old / used) on the
bottom ... pulled up really tight with a great bond & talk about
SLICK! ... would barely hold the bottom paint.
Used bed sheets work great for boat interiors ... just remember
that the cloths tend to "draw up" as they wet out ... and stay 'drawn
up' when the resin cures. One can use indellable magic markers to draw
designs or even woodgrain or boards on the sheets ... sheets can be
dyed (ritt dyes work good) before bonding - just be certain that the
sheets are completely rinsed and dried before wetting out with
resin.
resin ... cotton fibres absorbe the resin and swell up - thus each
fibre becomes shorter and the overall length/width of the cloth becomes
LESS. This can put great tension on the cloth and pull it free of an
underlying surface - or if planned for, contribute to bonding and
strength. Coarse weave cloths can also 'fuzz up' pretty badly & require
touch sanding before painting.
As an aside, I once made a 16 foot doorskin / epoxe-cloth flat
bottom narrow dink & used faux 'satin' sheets (old / used) on the
bottom ... pulled up really tight with a great bond & talk about
SLICK! ... would barely hold the bottom paint.
Used bed sheets work great for boat interiors ... just remember
that the cloths tend to "draw up" as they wet out ... and stay 'drawn
up' when the resin cures. One can use indellable magic markers to draw
designs or even woodgrain or boards on the sheets ... sheets can be
dyed (ritt dyes work good) before bonding - just be certain that the
sheets are completely rinsed and dried before wetting out with
resin.
Something to bear in mind when using cotton cloth with any plastic
resin ... cotton fibres absorbe the resin and swell up - thus each
fibre becomes shorter and the overall length/width of the cloth becomes
LESS. This can put great tension on the cloth and pull it free of an
underlying surface - or if planned for, contribute to bonding and
strength. Coarse weave cloths can also 'fuzz up' pretty badly & require
touch sanding before painting.
As an aside, I once made a 16 foot doorskin / epoxe-cloth flat
bottom narrow dink & used faux 'satin' sheets (old / used) on the
bottom ... pulled up really tight with a great bond & talk about
SLICK! ... would barely hold the bottom paint.
Used bed sheets work great for boat interiors ... just remember
that the cloths tend to "draw up" as they wet out ... and stay 'drawn
up' when the resin cures. One can use indellable magic markers to draw
designs or even woodgrain or boards on the sheets ... sheets can be
dyed (ritt dyes work good) before bonding - just be certain that the
sheets are completely rinsed and dried before wetting out with
resin.
resin ... cotton fibres absorbe the resin and swell up - thus each
fibre becomes shorter and the overall length/width of the cloth becomes
LESS. This can put great tension on the cloth and pull it free of an
underlying surface - or if planned for, contribute to bonding and
strength. Coarse weave cloths can also 'fuzz up' pretty badly & require
touch sanding before painting.
As an aside, I once made a 16 foot doorskin / epoxe-cloth flat
bottom narrow dink & used faux 'satin' sheets (old / used) on the
bottom ... pulled up really tight with a great bond & talk about
SLICK! ... would barely hold the bottom paint.
Used bed sheets work great for boat interiors ... just remember
that the cloths tend to "draw up" as they wet out ... and stay 'drawn
up' when the resin cures. One can use indellable magic markers to draw
designs or even woodgrain or boards on the sheets ... sheets can be
dyed (ritt dyes work good) before bonding - just be certain that the
sheets are completely rinsed and dried before wetting out with
resin.
Something to bear in mind when using cotton cloth with any plastic
resin ... cotton fibres absorbe the resin and swell up - thus each
fibre becomes shorter and the overall length/width of the cloth becomes
LESS. This can put great tension on the cloth and pull it free of an
underlying surface - or if planned for, contribute to bonding and
strength. Coarse weave cloths can also 'fuzz up' pretty badly & require
touch sanding before painting.
As an aside, I once made a 16 foot doorskin / epoxe-cloth flat
bottom narrow dink & used faux 'satin' sheets (old / used) on the
bottom ... pulled up really tight with a great bond & talk about
SLICK! ... would barely hold the bottom paint.
Used bed sheets work great for boat interiors ... just remember
that the cloths tend to "draw up" as they wet out ... and stay 'drawn
up' when the resin cures. One can use indellable magic markers to draw
designs or even woodgrain or boards on the sheets ... sheets can be
dyed (ritt dyes work good) before bonding - just be certain that the
sheets are completely rinsed and dried before wetting out with
resin.
resin ... cotton fibres absorbe the resin and swell up - thus each
fibre becomes shorter and the overall length/width of the cloth becomes
LESS. This can put great tension on the cloth and pull it free of an
underlying surface - or if planned for, contribute to bonding and
strength. Coarse weave cloths can also 'fuzz up' pretty badly & require
touch sanding before painting.
As an aside, I once made a 16 foot doorskin / epoxe-cloth flat
bottom narrow dink & used faux 'satin' sheets (old / used) on the
bottom ... pulled up really tight with a great bond & talk about
SLICK! ... would barely hold the bottom paint.
Used bed sheets work great for boat interiors ... just remember
that the cloths tend to "draw up" as they wet out ... and stay 'drawn
up' when the resin cures. One can use indellable magic markers to draw
designs or even woodgrain or boards on the sheets ... sheets can be
dyed (ritt dyes work good) before bonding - just be certain that the
sheets are completely rinsed and dried before wetting out with
resin.