Re: SInglehander Schooner engine mount
> You may want to also consider using some kind of comb for the tillerThat's already standard in the design, and the photos from the
Kingston Messabout last year show me installing it....
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
I'm planning to experiment with oars or a yuloh this year.
Burgundy has a long single sculling oar, pivoting on an scull knotch.
I don't know, but it looks effective. You may want to also consider
using some kind of comb for the tiller, because I think you can cock
the tiller a few degress from straight ahead, and progress straight
forward with a single oar this way.
http://hallman.org/bolger/scullknotch.gif
> Susan Davis <futabachan@...>The geometry of the cockpit is similar to Burgundy, and I recall that
Burgundy has a long single sculling oar, pivoting on an scull knotch.
I don't know, but it looks effective. You may want to also consider
using some kind of comb for the tiller, because I think you can cock
the tiller a few degress from straight ahead, and progress straight
forward with a single oar this way.
http://hallman.org/bolger/scullknotch.gif
> Tony Groves who commissioned and built the first one never used aI used a canoe paddle last season, and she's a real handful for a
> motor as I recall. I think he only used a canoe paddle.
single paddle. I'm planning to experiment with oars or a yuloh this year.
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
> I'll probably skip it all though and just pretend I don't have a motor...and the simplest, too, and you don't have to dispose of the tiller
> at all and just build it as designed. That's certainly the safest way.
when under power. Clamping or bolting a motor bracket to the aft edge
of the main cockpit, jutting out over the gunwale, is dead simple.
(Not that I use a motor, though.)
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
Hi Chris,
My first real sailboat after owning a sailing canoe was A
Hershof 23 she was 34 ft on deck and 23ft between perpendiculars. We
used a 21/2 horse outboard mounted on a bracket hanging over the stern.
The bracket was a 2x6x4ft long with a vertical out board bracket
attached to one end to mount the motor on. The forward end was slid
under a wooden bracket that had a slot through it to receive the 2x6and
the end pushed against the back cockpit coaming. The aft end was tied to
the two aft cleats at the corners of the stern. IT worked very well.
Aside from being clumsy to remove and store I liked it in spite of the
fact that it was ugly as all get out. But I didn't use the motor much
being a semi purest I sailed in and out of my boat slip and every where
else I could. the engine was used when there was just no other way.
I don't see why a similar bracket off the side would not work
just as well. Even if you fall overboard if there is no wind and I
assume that's the only time you would be messing with an outboard. You
will remain right beside the boat and if provided you can climb the
steps on the rudder to get back into the boat.
I did drop the outboard over once but it was attached by a rope and
was retrieved. I pored a bucked of fresh water over it and pulled the
starter cord to pump any water out that might be inside. I took off the
cover and let it dry over night and the next morning it ran like a charm.
I am ashamed to tell this but a couple of years later being
young and foolish I cut an outboard motor well right through her finely
shaped bottom and aft deck. The old boat was built in 1903 with one
inch square steam bent frames covered with 1/2 inch planking. To build
a boat of that size with such light construction, was in my opinion and
act of brilliance and craftsmanship. The truth is I could tell no
difference in the way she sailed or her speed though on a downwind run
where she would get up to 10 knots in a good breeze water would shoot up
through the well and on to the aft deck.
If it were me I would use an outboard bracket off the side of her
stern. These new little outboards don't weigh anything and can be lifted
easily on and off with one hand. There is no greater comfort than
knowing your boat bottom doesn't have any holes through it.
Doug
Chris Kottaridis wrote:
My first real sailboat after owning a sailing canoe was A
Hershof 23 she was 34 ft on deck and 23ft between perpendiculars. We
used a 21/2 horse outboard mounted on a bracket hanging over the stern.
The bracket was a 2x6x4ft long with a vertical out board bracket
attached to one end to mount the motor on. The forward end was slid
under a wooden bracket that had a slot through it to receive the 2x6and
the end pushed against the back cockpit coaming. The aft end was tied to
the two aft cleats at the corners of the stern. IT worked very well.
Aside from being clumsy to remove and store I liked it in spite of the
fact that it was ugly as all get out. But I didn't use the motor much
being a semi purest I sailed in and out of my boat slip and every where
else I could. the engine was used when there was just no other way.
I don't see why a similar bracket off the side would not work
just as well. Even if you fall overboard if there is no wind and I
assume that's the only time you would be messing with an outboard. You
will remain right beside the boat and if provided you can climb the
steps on the rudder to get back into the boat.
I did drop the outboard over once but it was attached by a rope and
was retrieved. I pored a bucked of fresh water over it and pulled the
starter cord to pump any water out that might be inside. I took off the
cover and let it dry over night and the next morning it ran like a charm.
I am ashamed to tell this but a couple of years later being
young and foolish I cut an outboard motor well right through her finely
shaped bottom and aft deck. The old boat was built in 1903 with one
inch square steam bent frames covered with 1/2 inch planking. To build
a boat of that size with such light construction, was in my opinion and
act of brilliance and craftsmanship. The truth is I could tell no
difference in the way she sailed or her speed though on a downwind run
where she would get up to 10 knots in a good breeze water would shoot up
through the well and on to the aft deck.
If it were me I would use an outboard bracket off the side of her
stern. These new little outboards don't weigh anything and can be lifted
easily on and off with one hand. There is no greater comfort than
knowing your boat bottom doesn't have any holes through it.
Doug
Chris Kottaridis wrote:
> Yeah, I have given up on the thought of cutting off everything past the
> E bulkhead. There is about a foot between the end of bulkhead 'D' and
> the rudder assembly. I have seen Reuel B Parker use a tear drop shaped
> opening in a motor well.
>
> The tear drop shaped opening has a hatch cover similar to a kayak hatch
> only it's on the bottom. BY putting an internal teardrop shaped with
> mayb an inch smaller you could fashion the hatch to sit against the
> smaller one and be flush with the bottom of the boat. Kind of like a
> flush kayak hatch on the bottom of the boat instead of the top.
> The water can flow smooth under the bottom of the boat and not build up
> against the back of the well and act like a brake.
>
> When you want to insert the engine, you unlatch the hatch and push it
> through then turn it to fit back up through the well and store it.
> You'll want to tie a string to the hatch so you don't loose it when you
> push it through. Then plop the engine in. When you are done with the
> engine pull it up and store it in the front cockpit. Then insert the
> hatch through the hole and turn it to fit in place and tighten it down.
> You might be able to get a reasonably tight seal. There may still be
> some water sitting in the well that you could bail out if need be.
>
> In that scenario I'd have to do something with the tiller when the
> engine was in place and probably steer with the motor only. But, it
> seems like a lot of work for something that is untested.
>
> A bracket the can be clamped or otherwise secured to the D bulkjhead at
> the back of the cockpit that hangs over the side in a way that the motor
> can be clamped to it would be a lot easier although it would look weird.
>
> I'll probably skip it all though and just pretend I don't have a motor
> at all and just build it as designed. That's certainly the safest way.
>
> Thanks for the suggestions.
>
> Chris Kottaridis (chriskot@...)
>
>
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Yeah, I have given up on the thought of cutting off everything past the
E bulkhead. There is about a foot between the end of bulkhead 'D' and
the rudder assembly. I have seen Reuel B Parker use a tear drop shaped
opening in a motor well.
The tear drop shaped opening has a hatch cover similar to a kayak hatch
only it's on the bottom. BY putting an internal teardrop shaped with
mayb an inch smaller you could fashion the hatch to sit against the
smaller one and be flush with the bottom of the boat. Kind of like a
flush kayak hatch on the bottom of the boat instead of the top.
The water can flow smooth under the bottom of the boat and not build up
against the back of the well and act like a brake.
When you want to insert the engine, you unlatch the hatch and push it
through then turn it to fit back up through the well and store it.
You'll want to tie a string to the hatch so you don't loose it when you
push it through. Then plop the engine in. When you are done with the
engine pull it up and store it in the front cockpit. Then insert the
hatch through the hole and turn it to fit in place and tighten it down.
You might be able to get a reasonably tight seal. There may still be
some water sitting in the well that you could bail out if need be.
In that scenario I'd have to do something with the tiller when the
engine was in place and probably steer with the motor only. But, it
seems like a lot of work for something that is untested.
A bracket the can be clamped or otherwise secured to the D bulkjhead at
the back of the cockpit that hangs over the side in a way that the motor
can be clamped to it would be a lot easier although it would look weird.
I'll probably skip it all though and just pretend I don't have a motor
at all and just build it as designed. That's certainly the safest way.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Chris Kottaridis (chriskot@...)
E bulkhead. There is about a foot between the end of bulkhead 'D' and
the rudder assembly. I have seen Reuel B Parker use a tear drop shaped
opening in a motor well.
The tear drop shaped opening has a hatch cover similar to a kayak hatch
only it's on the bottom. BY putting an internal teardrop shaped with
mayb an inch smaller you could fashion the hatch to sit against the
smaller one and be flush with the bottom of the boat. Kind of like a
flush kayak hatch on the bottom of the boat instead of the top.
The water can flow smooth under the bottom of the boat and not build up
against the back of the well and act like a brake.
When you want to insert the engine, you unlatch the hatch and push it
through then turn it to fit back up through the well and store it.
You'll want to tie a string to the hatch so you don't loose it when you
push it through. Then plop the engine in. When you are done with the
engine pull it up and store it in the front cockpit. Then insert the
hatch through the hole and turn it to fit in place and tighten it down.
You might be able to get a reasonably tight seal. There may still be
some water sitting in the well that you could bail out if need be.
In that scenario I'd have to do something with the tiller when the
engine was in place and probably steer with the motor only. But, it
seems like a lot of work for something that is untested.
A bracket the can be clamped or otherwise secured to the D bulkjhead at
the back of the cockpit that hangs over the side in a way that the motor
can be clamped to it would be a lot easier although it would look weird.
I'll probably skip it all though and just pretend I don't have a motor
at all and just build it as designed. That's certainly the safest way.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Chris Kottaridis (chriskot@...)
It the original writeup which is reproduced in MAIB, PCB discusses the
motor problem, and pretty much ducks the issue. He notes that there
isn't a good place to keep the motor inside the boat when not in use,
suggests building a torpedo-shaped watertight case in which to tow it,
then allows that having a tow boat on hand when needed would be
welcome.
Pretty much you have your choice of un-wonderful options, but don't
consider your #1, lopping the stern. The combination of losing
buoyancy in the stern plus adding a heavy weight there is not going to
work out well. In your place, I would work out a backet on the side as
far aft as I could reach comfortable from the cockpit. I would not
want to sail with the motor mounted, except in very calm wind and
water, since it certainly would be possible to dunk the powerhead.
Inconvenient though it would be, the motor can be carried between the
masts, and it would worthwhile to work out some sort of arrangement to
hold it in place and contain any mess.
Peter
motor problem, and pretty much ducks the issue. He notes that there
isn't a good place to keep the motor inside the boat when not in use,
suggests building a torpedo-shaped watertight case in which to tow it,
then allows that having a tow boat on hand when needed would be
welcome.
Pretty much you have your choice of un-wonderful options, but don't
consider your #1, lopping the stern. The combination of losing
buoyancy in the stern plus adding a heavy weight there is not going to
work out well. In your place, I would work out a backet on the side as
far aft as I could reach comfortable from the cockpit. I would not
want to sail with the motor mounted, except in very calm wind and
water, since it certainly would be possible to dunk the powerhead.
Inconvenient though it would be, the motor can be carried between the
masts, and it would worthwhile to work out some sort of arrangement to
hold it in place and contain any mess.
Peter
Hey bolgeristas:
I wrote to Mr. Bolger early this week telling him
my concerns about the rig on Birdwatcher II. Well, he
phoned me back as soon as my letter arrived -- at
10:30 p.m. East Coast time -- to set me straight. I'm
getting it all down while it's still fresh in my mind
-- I just hung up the phone.
To cut to the chase, the BW2 jib tacks to a whisker
pole so that the tack stays in line with the mast.
Not, repeat not, like anything designed for BW I. The
heel of the whisker pole presses against the mast and
it is positioned with guys like a spinnaker pole, plus
a short preventer tied off to the deck cleats shown in
the plans. The preventer is not intended to go out to
the end of the pole but rather to be lashed to the
whisker pole in mid-span.
PCB warns that the pole diameter as shown will
require some careful selection of wood if it is to
take the loading from the jib. Good clear fir rather
than spruce. Too flexible a pole will bend in
compression, moving the jib tack aft and spoiling the
set of the sail. He suggests guying the pole slightly
to weather to control the slot
I had earlier laminated a gunter spar out of clear
Sitka spruce which subsequently took a nasty curve.
I hadn't got around to cutting it up for firewood yet,
so now I'll cut it down for a whisker pole, aiming the
remaining curvature downward where the curve will
resist the tension in the jib luff.
Over time I will plane down the pole until it just
remains stiff enough at a wind strength that I would
cause me to hand the jib anyway. (This is actually
pretty error tolerant -- just like the old days in the
Finn class with Brazilian pine masts, if you've cut
off too much you glue on a thin strip and shave that
down with a bit more caution.)
PCB says he will modify the BW2 building
instructions so they will be clear even to dummies
like me (he didn't say that). I got off onto the 1990
mods to BW 1 which is where I went astray -- He was
most emphatic that BW2 is a complete re-think and
won't combine with half measures.
He's dead keen on seeing a BW2 built to plans
actually under sail. I'm planning to sail end of
March or early April even before I paint and titivate.
If you are ahead of me please keep PCB posted, he
says this is his all-time favorite design.
Eric
ps. titivate is so a word -- look it up in your Funk
and Wagnalls.
__________________________________________________
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I wrote to Mr. Bolger early this week telling him
my concerns about the rig on Birdwatcher II. Well, he
phoned me back as soon as my letter arrived -- at
10:30 p.m. East Coast time -- to set me straight. I'm
getting it all down while it's still fresh in my mind
-- I just hung up the phone.
To cut to the chase, the BW2 jib tacks to a whisker
pole so that the tack stays in line with the mast.
Not, repeat not, like anything designed for BW I. The
heel of the whisker pole presses against the mast and
it is positioned with guys like a spinnaker pole, plus
a short preventer tied off to the deck cleats shown in
the plans. The preventer is not intended to go out to
the end of the pole but rather to be lashed to the
whisker pole in mid-span.
PCB warns that the pole diameter as shown will
require some careful selection of wood if it is to
take the loading from the jib. Good clear fir rather
than spruce. Too flexible a pole will bend in
compression, moving the jib tack aft and spoiling the
set of the sail. He suggests guying the pole slightly
to weather to control the slot
I had earlier laminated a gunter spar out of clear
Sitka spruce which subsequently took a nasty curve.
I hadn't got around to cutting it up for firewood yet,
so now I'll cut it down for a whisker pole, aiming the
remaining curvature downward where the curve will
resist the tension in the jib luff.
Over time I will plane down the pole until it just
remains stiff enough at a wind strength that I would
cause me to hand the jib anyway. (This is actually
pretty error tolerant -- just like the old days in the
Finn class with Brazilian pine masts, if you've cut
off too much you glue on a thin strip and shave that
down with a bit more caution.)
PCB says he will modify the BW2 building
instructions so they will be clear even to dummies
like me (he didn't say that). I got off onto the 1990
mods to BW 1 which is where I went astray -- He was
most emphatic that BW2 is a complete re-think and
won't combine with half measures.
He's dead keen on seeing a BW2 built to plans
actually under sail. I'm planning to sail end of
March or early April even before I paint and titivate.
If you are ahead of me please keep PCB posted, he
says this is his all-time favorite design.
Eric
ps. titivate is so a word -- look it up in your Funk
and Wagnalls.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Tony Groves who commissioned and built the first one never used a
motor as I recall. I think he only used a canoe paddle. Sailed it a
lot from ports in So. California. Saw it listed for sail recently.
Joe T
motor as I recall. I think he only used a canoe paddle. Sailed it a
lot from ports in So. California. Saw it listed for sail recently.
Joe T
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Chris Kottaridis <chriskot@...> wrote:
> 3. Just forget about a motor altogether, because it's probably a bad
> idea to have one out on the water with me anyway. This thing may be a
> bit tender and I may be plopping over from time to time so why take the
> chance at losing a motor in a knockdown ?
>
> Thoughts, suggestions, comments are welcomed.
>
> --
> Chris Kottaridis <chriskot@...>
>
I agree with the other 2 replies. I would mount the 2 hp to the side
near the cockpit such that your weight when operating it is as near the
center of the boat as possible. It will push the boat just as well.
Steering would be only slightly different than a rear mounted motor but
no significant loss of control. You could then keep the hull structure
intact and keep your weight out of the stern.
Chris Kottaridis wrote:
near the cockpit such that your weight when operating it is as near the
center of the boat as possible. It will push the boat just as well.
Steering would be only slightly different than a rear mounted motor but
no significant loss of control. You could then keep the hull structure
intact and keep your weight out of the stern.
Chris Kottaridis wrote:
>Well, I got the plans for Bolger's singlehander schooner and I hadn't
>realized it had a canoe stern instead of a transom.
>
>I happen to have a Honda 2 HP 4 stroke outboard that only weighs 27 lbs,
>according to the marketing literature it fells heavy then that when I
>have to lug it around. Now, since I already have the outboard I was
>expecting I could rig up a mount on what I expected to be a transom
>pretty easily and use it for puttering around. However, with the canoe
>stern that will be a bit more difficult.
>
>If I didn't already have the outboard I wouldn't even consider worrying
>about getting any kind of motor in this, but since I have one that is
>probably a reasonable size for it, I have to wonder about it. Here are
>some thoughts I had and would appreciate any comments or suggestions:
>
>1. Just cut-off the end of the boat at bulkhead 'E' which is the one at
>the aft of the rudder mechanism. Then I'd have a small transom that I
>could probably connect a mount to, but the boat would be about 19"
>shorter and I am not sure that is a good idea.
>
>2. Figure out some way to connect up a removable mount to hang the motor
>off to one side near the stern. Assuming I am agile enough, I'd want to
>be able to remove it and stow it in the front cockpit while under sail.
>Any suggestions here would be welcomed.
>
>3. Just forget about a motor altogether, because it's probably a bad
>idea to have one out on the water with me anyway. This thing may be a
>bit tender and I may be plopping over from time to time so why take the
>chance at losing a motor in a knockdown ?
>
>Thoughts, suggestions, comments are welcomed.
>
>
>
3 is probably best but.... I am currently installing the rudder box in one I am building. Slow going but that is a personal problem. Now if this box were big enough to form a well for the motor you might have something useable. Possibly have a tail heavy boat but could work. Stowage forward for the motor is definitely available. Worth thinking about. With the weighted board I don't think you have so much risk going over. If you are motoring then the sails are down. If you are sailing, stow the motor forward in the hold.
Gene T.
----- Original Message ----
From: Chris Kottaridis <chriskot@...>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 14:08:59
Subject: [bolger] SInglehander Schooner engine mount
Well, I got the plans for Bolger's singlehander schooner and I hadn't
realized it had a canoe stern instead of a transom.
I happen to have a Honda 2 HP 4 stroke outboard that only weighs 27 lbs,
according to the marketing literature it fells heavy then that when I
have to lug it around. Now, since I already have the outboard I was
expecting I could rig up a mount on what I expected to be a transom
pretty easily and use it for puttering around. However, with the canoe
stern that will be a bit more difficult.
If I didn't already have the outboard I wouldn't even consider worrying
about getting any kind of motor in this, but since I have one that is
probably a reasonable size for it, I have to wonder about it. Here are
some thoughts I had and would appreciate any comments or suggestions:
1. Just cut-off the end of the boat at bulkhead 'E' which is the one at
the aft of the rudder mechanism. Then I'd have a small transom that I
could probably connect a mount to, but the boat would be about 19"
shorter and I am not sure that is a good idea.
2. Figure out some way to connect up a removable mount to hang the motor
off to one side near the stern. Assuming I am agile enough, I'd want to
be able to remove it and stow it in the front cockpit while under sail.
Any suggestions here would be welcomed.
3. Just forget about a motor altogether, because it's probably a bad
idea to have one out on the water with me anyway. This thing may be a
bit tender and I may be plopping over from time to time so why take the
chance at losing a motor in a knockdown ?
Thoughts, suggestions, comments are welcomed.
--
Chris Kottaridis <chriskot@...>
Gene T.
----- Original Message ----
From: Chris Kottaridis <chriskot@...>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 14:08:59
Subject: [bolger] SInglehander Schooner engine mount
Well, I got the plans for Bolger's singlehander schooner and I hadn't
realized it had a canoe stern instead of a transom.
I happen to have a Honda 2 HP 4 stroke outboard that only weighs 27 lbs,
according to the marketing literature it fells heavy then that when I
have to lug it around. Now, since I already have the outboard I was
expecting I could rig up a mount on what I expected to be a transom
pretty easily and use it for puttering around. However, with the canoe
stern that will be a bit more difficult.
If I didn't already have the outboard I wouldn't even consider worrying
about getting any kind of motor in this, but since I have one that is
probably a reasonable size for it, I have to wonder about it. Here are
some thoughts I had and would appreciate any comments or suggestions:
1. Just cut-off the end of the boat at bulkhead 'E' which is the one at
the aft of the rudder mechanism. Then I'd have a small transom that I
could probably connect a mount to, but the boat would be about 19"
shorter and I am not sure that is a good idea.
2. Figure out some way to connect up a removable mount to hang the motor
off to one side near the stern. Assuming I am agile enough, I'd want to
be able to remove it and stow it in the front cockpit while under sail.
Any suggestions here would be welcomed.
3. Just forget about a motor altogether, because it's probably a bad
idea to have one out on the water with me anyway. This thing may be a
bit tender and I may be plopping over from time to time so why take the
chance at losing a motor in a knockdown ?
Thoughts, suggestions, comments are welcomed.
--
Chris Kottaridis <chriskot@...>
> 2. Figure out some way to connect up a removable mount to hang the motorWhy near the stern, if that is trouble? If it were me, I would fasten
> off to one side near the stern.
it nearer to a cockpit, for easy access.
Doesn't that engine swivel 360 degrees? If so, just put it on the side of the boat and swivel it to whatever angle you need ... :)
Sincerely,
Kenneth Grome
Sincerely,
Kenneth Grome
On Sat, 11 Feb 2006 12:08:59 -0700, Chris Kottaridis wrote:
> Well, I got the plans for Bolger's singlehander schooner and I hadn't
> realized it had a canoe stern instead of a transom.
>
> I happen to have a Honda 2 HP 4 stroke outboard that only weighs 27 lbs,
> according to the marketing literature it fells heavy then that when I
> have to lug it around. Now, since I already have the outboard I was
> expecting I could rig up a mount on what I expected to be a transom
> pretty easily and use it for puttering around. However, with the canoe
> stern that will be a bit more difficult.
>
> If I didn't already have the outboard I wouldn't even consider worrying
> about getting any kind of motor in this, but since I have one that is
> probably a reasonable size for it, I have to wonder about it. Here are
> some thoughts I had and would appreciate any comments or suggestions:
>
> 1. Just cut-off the end of the boat at bulkhead 'E' which is the one at
> the aft of the rudder mechanism. Then I'd have a small transom that I
> could probably connect a mount to, but the boat would be about 19"
> shorter and I am not sure that is a good idea.
>
> 2. Figure out some way to connect up a removable mount to hang the motor
> off to one side near the stern. Assuming I am agile enough, I'd want to
> be able to remove it and stow it in the front cockpit while under sail.
> Any suggestions here would be welcomed.
>
> 3. Just forget about a motor altogether, because it's probably a bad
> idea to have one out on the water with me anyway. This thing may be a
> bit tender and I may be plopping over from time to time so why take the
> chance at losing a motor in a knockdown ?
>
> Thoughts, suggestions, comments are welcomed.
>
> --
> Chris Kottaridis <chriskot@...>
>
>
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Well, I got the plans for Bolger's singlehander schooner and I hadn't
realized it had a canoe stern instead of a transom.
I happen to have a Honda 2 HP 4 stroke outboard that only weighs 27 lbs,
according to the marketing literature it fells heavy then that when I
have to lug it around. Now, since I already have the outboard I was
expecting I could rig up a mount on what I expected to be a transom
pretty easily and use it for puttering around. However, with the canoe
stern that will be a bit more difficult.
If I didn't already have the outboard I wouldn't even consider worrying
about getting any kind of motor in this, but since I have one that is
probably a reasonable size for it, I have to wonder about it. Here are
some thoughts I had and would appreciate any comments or suggestions:
1. Just cut-off the end of the boat at bulkhead 'E' which is the one at
the aft of the rudder mechanism. Then I'd have a small transom that I
could probably connect a mount to, but the boat would be about 19"
shorter and I am not sure that is a good idea.
2. Figure out some way to connect up a removable mount to hang the motor
off to one side near the stern. Assuming I am agile enough, I'd want to
be able to remove it and stow it in the front cockpit while under sail.
Any suggestions here would be welcomed.
3. Just forget about a motor altogether, because it's probably a bad
idea to have one out on the water with me anyway. This thing may be a
bit tender and I may be plopping over from time to time so why take the
chance at losing a motor in a knockdown ?
Thoughts, suggestions, comments are welcomed.
--
Chris Kottaridis <chriskot@...>
realized it had a canoe stern instead of a transom.
I happen to have a Honda 2 HP 4 stroke outboard that only weighs 27 lbs,
according to the marketing literature it fells heavy then that when I
have to lug it around. Now, since I already have the outboard I was
expecting I could rig up a mount on what I expected to be a transom
pretty easily and use it for puttering around. However, with the canoe
stern that will be a bit more difficult.
If I didn't already have the outboard I wouldn't even consider worrying
about getting any kind of motor in this, but since I have one that is
probably a reasonable size for it, I have to wonder about it. Here are
some thoughts I had and would appreciate any comments or suggestions:
1. Just cut-off the end of the boat at bulkhead 'E' which is the one at
the aft of the rudder mechanism. Then I'd have a small transom that I
could probably connect a mount to, but the boat would be about 19"
shorter and I am not sure that is a good idea.
2. Figure out some way to connect up a removable mount to hang the motor
off to one side near the stern. Assuming I am agile enough, I'd want to
be able to remove it and stow it in the front cockpit while under sail.
Any suggestions here would be welcomed.
3. Just forget about a motor altogether, because it's probably a bad
idea to have one out on the water with me anyway. This thing may be a
bit tender and I may be plopping over from time to time so why take the
chance at losing a motor in a knockdown ?
Thoughts, suggestions, comments are welcomed.
--
Chris Kottaridis <chriskot@...>