Re: Testimony to Performance (was Labeling the dories)
Thanks. May have occasion to use this next year, possibly sooner.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, Phillip Lea <phillip_lea@y...> wrote:
> Lincoln,
>
> I reef my Junebug sprit sail like this: No attempt is
> made to reef while underway -- I do not (yet) have a
> halyard. If today the wind is too strong, I tie in
> the reef which consists of 4 intermediate reef, and an
> extra clew and tack grommets, about 24" (16 cm) snip
Lincoln,
I reef my Junebug sprit sail like this: No attempt is
made to reef while underway -- I do not (yet) have a
halyard. If today the wind is too strong, I tie in
the reef which consists of 4 intermediate reef, and an
extra clew and tack grommets, about 24" (16 cm) up
from the bottom and then step the mast. For sailing
on inland lakes or other places where shore is not too
far away, this works well. I may never add the
halyard.
I believe that Michalak covers this option in his
essay.
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I reef my Junebug sprit sail like this: No attempt is
made to reef while underway -- I do not (yet) have a
halyard. If today the wind is too strong, I tie in
the reef which consists of 4 intermediate reef, and an
extra clew and tack grommets, about 24" (16 cm) up
from the bottom and then step the mast. For sailing
on inland lakes or other places where shore is not too
far away, this works well. I may never add the
halyard.
I believe that Michalak covers this option in his
essay.
> Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 16:32:17 -0000__________________________________________________
> Lincoln Ross wrote:
>
> What reefing scheme did you use? Like the one in
> Michalak's essay?
> LEA, PHILLIP B wrote:
> > [snip]
> > I had Sailrite add some reef points (to the
> > kit) and the sail sets well even when reefed.
> >
> > The simplicity of the sprit rig is remarkable --
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In reference to reefing my Junebug sprit rig, Lincoln Ross wrote on May 31,
2000:
add one later). If today the wind is too strong, I tie in the reef before
stepping the mast. There are 4 intermediate reef grommets, and an extra
clew and tack grommet.
It goes like this. Loosen the luff lace a bit. Tie the downhaul to the
tack reef grommet and tie it in a proper lowered position to the mast chock.
Tie the head of the sail to the mast head with a line that goes from the
grommet, around the mast, back through the grommet and then to the hole at
the mast head. Adjust lace line as needed. Gather up the foot of the sail
with the short reef lines. Tie on the outhaul to the clew reef grommet and
step the mast. Rig the sprit boom as usual.
Phil Lea
Russellville, Arkansas
2000:
>What reefing scheme did you use? Like the one in Michalak's essay?NO attempt is made to reef while underway - I do not have a halyard (maybe
add one later). If today the wind is too strong, I tie in the reef before
stepping the mast. There are 4 intermediate reef grommets, and an extra
clew and tack grommet.
It goes like this. Loosen the luff lace a bit. Tie the downhaul to the
tack reef grommet and tie it in a proper lowered position to the mast chock.
Tie the head of the sail to the mast head with a line that goes from the
grommet, around the mast, back through the grommet and then to the hole at
the mast head. Adjust lace line as needed. Gather up the foot of the sail
with the short reef lines. Tie on the outhaul to the clew reef grommet and
step the mast. Rig the sprit boom as usual.
Phil Lea
Russellville, Arkansas
What reefing scheme did you use? Like the one in Michalak's essay?
Interesting to hear about the effect of the second person. If I get
around to building a sailboat, I'll have to consider that our load is
likely to be two hefty people, yet whatever I choose will need to be
cartoppable.
Interesting to hear about the effect of the second person. If I get
around to building a sailboat, I'll have to consider that our load is
likely to be two hefty people, yet whatever I choose will need to be
cartoppable.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "LEA, PHILLIP B" <plea@e...> wrote:
> snip
>
> Sailrite makes a great kit. I had Sailrite add some reef points
(to
the
> kit) and the sail sets well even when reefed.
>
> The simplicity of the sprit rig is remarkable --
Richard Spelling says it well. The choppier the water, the faster one must
come about, even though you may have more boat speed. My Junebug is so light
that it very rapidly comes to a dead halt and goes astern in less time than
you can say "back the main." You have to put the tiller over fairly far and
fast.
In a chop you do need to keep 10-15 degrees of heel, it sails better and
keeps you drier. Interesting thing -- with two adults aboard and ~10 kts.
of wind blowing, significantly more water comes aboard. And to my wife's
misfortune, the person forward takes all the water in the face for the
helmsman. With just me aboard, the windward chine is out of the water, at a
little bit of heel and the waves strike the bottom of the boat and less
water comes aboard -- and she is faster.
The Junebug has three skids about 9" apart on the 1/4" ply bottom and I have
experienced no flexing -- but I have also set in some watertight bulkheads
fore and aft. I am pleased to say that the compartments have stayed bone
dry at all times except when we got 5" of rain in a day and a half when the
boat was on the trailer with the inspection ports open to "ventilate the
compartments."
Epoxy is wonderful stuff. Spar varnish over System Three's clear coat is a
beautiful and relatively rugged finish.
Jibing is casual and uneventful with a sprit rig.
I have purposely set both the sprit boom and daggerboard on the port side.
Starboard tack: more board in the water, but poor sail shape. Port tack:
less board, but wonderful sail shape. Sailing on the port tack is superior
-- the difference in daggerboard has little effect. When wind and boat
speed is low, the boat is pretty much sailed flat and leeway is about the
same.
Sailrite makes a great kit. I had Sailrite add some reef points (to the
kit) and the sail sets well even when reefed.
The simplicity of the sprit rig is remarkable -- trailer to sailing in
nothing flat. My sail is kept neatly wrapped around the mast. Put the pole
in hole and go.
My Junebug is a little heavier than I can cartop, but the whole rig is very
light and I pull it behind my Ford Esort (2000 cc) with no problems at all
-- verified 30 mpg down to Lake Texoma and back earlier this month.
Should be getting some pictures to the Vault (Files) eventually.
Phil Lea
Russellville, Arkansas
---------------------------------------------------
come about, even though you may have more boat speed. My Junebug is so light
that it very rapidly comes to a dead halt and goes astern in less time than
you can say "back the main." You have to put the tiller over fairly far and
fast.
In a chop you do need to keep 10-15 degrees of heel, it sails better and
keeps you drier. Interesting thing -- with two adults aboard and ~10 kts.
of wind blowing, significantly more water comes aboard. And to my wife's
misfortune, the person forward takes all the water in the face for the
helmsman. With just me aboard, the windward chine is out of the water, at a
little bit of heel and the waves strike the bottom of the boat and less
water comes aboard -- and she is faster.
The Junebug has three skids about 9" apart on the 1/4" ply bottom and I have
experienced no flexing -- but I have also set in some watertight bulkheads
fore and aft. I am pleased to say that the compartments have stayed bone
dry at all times except when we got 5" of rain in a day and a half when the
boat was on the trailer with the inspection ports open to "ventilate the
compartments."
Epoxy is wonderful stuff. Spar varnish over System Three's clear coat is a
beautiful and relatively rugged finish.
Jibing is casual and uneventful with a sprit rig.
I have purposely set both the sprit boom and daggerboard on the port side.
Starboard tack: more board in the water, but poor sail shape. Port tack:
less board, but wonderful sail shape. Sailing on the port tack is superior
-- the difference in daggerboard has little effect. When wind and boat
speed is low, the boat is pretty much sailed flat and leeway is about the
same.
Sailrite makes a great kit. I had Sailrite add some reef points (to the
kit) and the sail sets well even when reefed.
The simplicity of the sprit rig is remarkable -- trailer to sailing in
nothing flat. My sail is kept neatly wrapped around the mast. Put the pole
in hole and go.
My Junebug is a little heavier than I can cartop, but the whole rig is very
light and I pull it behind my Ford Esort (2000 cc) with no problems at all
-- verified 30 mpg down to Lake Texoma and back earlier this month.
Should be getting some pictures to the Vault (Files) eventually.
Phil Lea
Russellville, Arkansas
---------------------------------------------------
> Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 09:30:12 -0500so
> From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@...>
> Subject: Re: Labeling the dories
>On problem is that in a chop, the nice ... flow lines ... a great amount of
>turbulance is generated ... Effectively slowing the boat down when
>the water is choppy. To such a great extent that you even have probems
>getting through irons in rough water.
>
>However, when the water is rough, the wind is usualy blowing pretty good,
>you don't really have problems getting anywhere, you just have to get the----------------------------------------------------
>hang of tacking,...
>
> ... remember to keep the boat heeled 10-15 degrees to reduce
> pounding, and take care in tacking.
>> In a message dated 5/27/00 12:38:49 PM Central Daylight Time,of
>>welshman@...writes:
>>
>> Please tell us more! One can learn a great deal about the construction
>> geometrically simple boats on this group, but testimony as to performance....
>> is less prevalent. I suppose the explanation is simple enough - once the
>> constructors are boating they, for the most part, are too busy having fun