Re: [bolger] Fldg Schnr Cont
>It has been a while since I built a mast, the last one was a forty foot long
>
> I went octagonal (no taper) with the table saw and then went after it
> with a block plane.
>
> half way though, i got a power planer.
>
> either way, it's fun and easy.
>
> -david
tear drop shape (to match the one I broke). I used a drawknife for the rough
in and a plane for the finish work, and a cut sander belt used like you
would a beach towel on your back to finish the rounding. If I had to do
another I think I would still use a hand plane. I loved the sound of the
blade knife working through the wood.
While I would push the plane, I would think about my father when he
apprenticed as a shipwright at the beginning of the last century. He would
get beaten if the old scottish shipwrights he worked under couldn't pull a
20 shaving from the plane. The best I could ever do was 10-12 feet.
Apparently the beating has some effect on the tensile strength of wood.
HJ
_ _ _ _ _
% Harrywelshman@...
Leander:
Congratulations on your progress - hope you make the July deadline.
I get square drive ss screws in several lengths including 3/4" from McFeelys
http://www.mcfeelys.com/index.html
Prior to priming, you don't need to go finer than 60 grit, with the ROS.
Between coats, just use steel wool by hand.
I'm with Richard on the masts - make 'em solid.
Chuck
Congratulations on your progress - hope you make the July deadline.
I get square drive ss screws in several lengths including 3/4" from McFeelys
http://www.mcfeelys.com/index.html
Prior to priming, you don't need to go finer than 60 grit, with the ROS.
Between coats, just use steel wool by hand.
I'm with Richard on the masts - make 'em solid.
Chuck
> Work continues on the Folding Schooner. Spent Memorial Day making the
> mainmast step and the cutting and fitting all the pieces for the
> bilge board cases. Waiting for a warm, dry day to epoxy everything
> into place. Also put the bottom boards and keelson on the aft
> hull.This hull bottom is 3/8 MDO which is very tuff stuff. We broke
> several drill bits and completely dulled the Makita quick change
> countersink we were using. The Stainless screws I am using have soft
> heads which is frustrating. I wish I could find Stainless Square
> Drive
> screws in 3/4" size.
>
> Also cut the deck for the aft bridgedeck. I used a straight edge
> clamped to the plywood to guide the circular saw to cut the deck
> panel
> and bilge board case covers. I was surprised at how accurate the
> result was. It is really as good as the fence on our little table
> saw.
>
> Thanks for the feedback on finishing systems. Confirms my prejudice
> that for a dry sailed boat latex primer and porch paint is the way to
> go in our budget category. I have a new Bosch random orbit sander.
> What grits would you recommend for prior to priming and between coats?
>
> Contemplating masts. I had thougt of trying to use our table saw to
> make hollow masts out of birdsmouths staves. I wonder now if they
> would be strong enough in the 3 inch diameter already set in the mast
> steps particularly where they go through the partners. I have read
> about the advisablility of having solid inserts through that stress
> point. I also have not done this before and am trying to get the
> boat in the water by July for our family vacation. Getting the masts
> out of 16 ft 4x4s is looking more feasible. I am a little foggy on
> how to precut the taper before rounding to end up with the final
> dimensions. For the three inch diameter it is just eight sidding and
> rounding over but it seems I need to add something to the taper at
> the
> top of the mast before eight sidding and rounding over. Anybody done
> this before?
>
> Leander
>
>
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> Thanks for the feedback on finishing systems. Confirms my prejudiceIf you are using porch paint, be sure to put at least three coats (or more)
> that for a dry sailed boat latex primer and porch paint is the way to
> go in our budget category. I have a new Bosch random orbit sander.
> What grits would you recommend for prior to priming and between coats?
>
of (non-oil based) primer over the epoxy, or your porch paint will come off
in great sheets.
> Contemplating masts. I had thougt of trying to use our table saw toThe mast on Entropy is 3 1/2 inch, hollow, birdsmouth, no reinforcement or
> make hollow masts out of birdsmouths staves. I wonder now if they
> would be strong enough in the 3 inch diameter already set in the mast
> steps particularly where they go through the partners. I have read
solid areas. 126 sq ft main, haven't had any problems.
That said, if I had to do it again, I would find some very light wood, and
make it solid. The dough fir mine is made out of is on the heavy side...
> about the advisablility of having solid inserts through that stressBeter to laminiate smaller pieces, less chance of warping.
> point. I also have not done this before and am trying to get the
> boat in the water by July for our family vacation. Getting the masts
> out of 16 ft 4x4s is looking more feasible. I am a little foggy on
For Leander
I made hollow masts (birdsmouth)for Chebacco, 4" at the partner, 19 feet
overall. Hollow full length, unstyed, not solid in the way of the
partner. The tapers were acheived by tapering the width of individual
staves, taking away wood from the non-birdsmouth side. This mast is
parallel sided where the gaff runs, and tapered from the "hounds" to the
head, as well as from the partner to the step. Technique and scantlings
are well described in a recent WOODENBOAT mag. I differed only in that I
tapered the staves with a hand plane. It was not difficult. I did not
think that a abrupt taper would glue up well or would look like a mast
made by a farmer. (I hope the farmers around here can see that is a
joke)
As per making it solid, I don't see how it could be done on a mast that
is tapered both ends. The octagonal openings at the ends are smaller
than at the partner, so you couldn't insert a plug. Hollow full length
allowed me to run the halyards inside.
I've not been out this year in winds greater than 15 knots, so can't
attest to the strength, but so far so good (knock wood). The hollow mast
is not only lighter, it is stiffer.
If time was of the essence, I wouldn't hesitate to get the masts out of
solid stuff, and save the hollow stick for a winter project.
Cheers;
Fraser Howell
I made hollow masts (birdsmouth)for Chebacco, 4" at the partner, 19 feet
overall. Hollow full length, unstyed, not solid in the way of the
partner. The tapers were acheived by tapering the width of individual
staves, taking away wood from the non-birdsmouth side. This mast is
parallel sided where the gaff runs, and tapered from the "hounds" to the
head, as well as from the partner to the step. Technique and scantlings
are well described in a recent WOODENBOAT mag. I differed only in that I
tapered the staves with a hand plane. It was not difficult. I did not
think that a abrupt taper would glue up well or would look like a mast
made by a farmer. (I hope the farmers around here can see that is a
joke)
As per making it solid, I don't see how it could be done on a mast that
is tapered both ends. The octagonal openings at the ends are smaller
than at the partner, so you couldn't insert a plug. Hollow full length
allowed me to run the halyards inside.
I've not been out this year in winds greater than 15 knots, so can't
attest to the strength, but so far so good (knock wood). The hollow mast
is not only lighter, it is stiffer.
If time was of the essence, I wouldn't hesitate to get the masts out of
solid stuff, and save the hollow stick for a winter project.
Cheers;
Fraser Howell