Re: Windermere CB design
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@...> wrote:
not a wee bit envious! One day I hope to be just as good as he is!
Sincerely,
Peter"10 thumbs" Lenihan,marvelling over both Roger Derbys' and now
Bob Larkins' web pages for nice clean work practices.
>> Bob Larkin has been so kind as to post some photos of the drop-inExcellent link Nels! Bob Larkin does NICE work....I am inspired, if
> centerboard construction on his BirdwatcherII. Bit different, but
> perhaps the next logical development?
>
> A person might also consider attaching UHMW plating on the trunk
> batten and centerboard bearings?
>
>http://www.proaxis.com/~boblark/bw2_cb.htm
not a wee bit envious! One day I hope to be just as good as he is!
Sincerely,
Peter"10 thumbs" Lenihan,marvelling over both Roger Derbys' and now
Bob Larkins' web pages for nice clean work practices.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Rick Bedard <sctree@...> wrote:
the hull...
Excellent point Rick! I did not considered that some of the smaller
over-nighters,with centerboards, may well have cabins too low for
extracting the centerboard up through the box......then again,alot of
these smaller boats have their centerboard trunk running a fair ways
aft of the actual cabin/cuddy.Hmmmmm.......certainly something to
consider neverthless.Thanks!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,happily working away inside the biggest cuddy he has
ever owned :-) ,from along the banks of the St.Lawrence
Seaway...............
>boat! Some cabin designs require dropping the board out the bottom of
>
> Works fine if you can install and remove the c/b from inside the
the hull...
Excellent point Rick! I did not considered that some of the smaller
over-nighters,with centerboards, may well have cabins too low for
extracting the centerboard up through the box......then again,alot of
these smaller boats have their centerboard trunk running a fair ways
aft of the actual cabin/cuddy.Hmmmmm.......certainly something to
consider neverthless.Thanks!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,happily working away inside the biggest cuddy he has
ever owned :-) ,from along the banks of the St.Lawrence
Seaway...............
--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "GarthAB" <garth@...> wrote:
Was that your Cormorant in the "launchings" section of
Woodenboat magazine recently? BRAVO if it was!
I cannot scan the plans(no scanner!) but if you look really
close at the little study plan here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger2/files/WINDERMERE%
20Construction%20photos/
and in particular,the very last image,you may be able to make
out,just bellow the forward dinette seat,the centerboard case and
that V shaped cut-out where the CB pin rides........As designed,the
centerboard case is made up of two layers of 1/2" laminated together
with the V shaped cut-out made right through these.Then a backing
plate of two more laminated 1/2" plywood pieces,1 foot wide, serve
as the "cheek" pieces which seal and render the V shaped opening
water-tight.Very straight forward and simple to do.
O.K., it really is not fair to tease with such a weak image so
I will ferret around through my pictures and come up with ones
showing in much greater detail exactly how I built it. It will
however take several days before I can post them as I will be off
work(where the computer is!) for about a week. Hopefully you can
wait that long ;-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, looking forward to some good un-interupted days of
interior finish work on board Windermere,from along the banks of the
St.Lawrence Seaway............
>Hi Garth,
> Peter --
>
> Could you post a snippet of the construction drawing for this CB? I
> think I can visualize it all from your description, but I'd love to
> see it plain. Or, if reproducing the drawing seems too close to a
> copyright no-no, maybe a picture or two of your CB construction?
>
> Garth
> (thinking of dropping a small bow CB into my Cormorant)
Was that your Cormorant in the "launchings" section of
Woodenboat magazine recently? BRAVO if it was!
I cannot scan the plans(no scanner!) but if you look really
close at the little study plan here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger2/files/WINDERMERE%
20Construction%20photos/
and in particular,the very last image,you may be able to make
out,just bellow the forward dinette seat,the centerboard case and
that V shaped cut-out where the CB pin rides........As designed,the
centerboard case is made up of two layers of 1/2" laminated together
with the V shaped cut-out made right through these.Then a backing
plate of two more laminated 1/2" plywood pieces,1 foot wide, serve
as the "cheek" pieces which seal and render the V shaped opening
water-tight.Very straight forward and simple to do.
O.K., it really is not fair to tease with such a weak image so
I will ferret around through my pictures and come up with ones
showing in much greater detail exactly how I built it. It will
however take several days before I can post them as I will be off
work(where the computer is!) for about a week. Hopefully you can
wait that long ;-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, looking forward to some good un-interupted days of
interior finish work on board Windermere,from along the banks of the
St.Lawrence Seaway............
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Rick Bedard <sctree@...> wrote:
of the hull...
Bob Larkin has been so kind as to post some photos of the drop-in
centerboard construction on his BirdwatcherII. Bit different, but
perhaps the next logical development?
A person might also consider attaching UHMW plating on the trunk
batten and centerboard bearings?
http://www.proaxis.com/~boblark/bw2_cb.htm
Nels
>boat! Some cabin designs require dropping the board out the bottom
>
> Works fine if you can install and remove the c/b from inside the
of the hull...
>Big factor Rick!
> Rick
Bob Larkin has been so kind as to post some photos of the drop-in
centerboard construction on his BirdwatcherII. Bit different, but
perhaps the next logical development?
A person might also consider attaching UHMW plating on the trunk
batten and centerboard bearings?
http://www.proaxis.com/~boblark/bw2_cb.htm
Nels
Works fine if you can install and remove the c/b from inside the boat! Some cabin designs require dropping the board out the bottom of the hull...
Rick
From the banks of what should be a dusty dry creekbed now, but swollen with heavy, late spring rain runoff has become a rocking and roaring Reliz Canyon Creek.
I do
- NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
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- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
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- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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Rick
From the banks of what should be a dusty dry creekbed now, but swollen with heavy, late spring rain runoff has become a rocking and roaring Reliz Canyon Creek.
I do
> not know why Bolger doesn't do ALL his C/B installs this way.ABolger rules!!!
> fantastic method, if I do say so myself. To wit; instead of the C/B
> pin sliding through the centerboard and held in place with cheek
> pieces on the outside of the centerboard box, he calls for a long V
> shaped slot on the inside faces of the centerboard case sides along
> which the centerboard pin(permanently installed through the
> centerboard)slides down into and the board is held down with
> matching V shaped wedges resting atop the pins and held down by the
> centerboard case covering board.
- NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
SPONSORED LINKS
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---------------------------------
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Visit your group "bolger" on the web.
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Peter --
Could you post a snippet of the construction drawing for this CB? I
think I can visualize it all from your description, but I'd love to
see it plain. Or, if reproducing the drawing seems too close to a
copyright no-no, maybe a picture or two of your CB construction?
Garth
(thinking of dropping a small bow CB into my Cormorant)
Could you post a snippet of the construction drawing for this CB? I
think I can visualize it all from your description, but I'd love to
see it plain. Or, if reproducing the drawing seems too close to a
copyright no-no, maybe a picture or two of your CB construction?
Garth
(thinking of dropping a small bow CB into my Cormorant)
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@...> wrote:
> After building the centerboard case and board for Windermere, I do
> not know why Bolger doesn't do ALL his C/B installs this way.A
> fantastic method, if I do say so myself. To wit; instead of the C/B
> pin sliding through the centerboard and held in place with cheek
> pieces on the outside of the centerboard box, he calls for a long V
> shaped slot on the inside faces of the centerboard case sides along
> which the centerboard pin(permanently installed through the
> centerboard)slides down into and the board is held down with
> matching V shaped wedges resting atop the pins and held down by the
> centerboard case covering board.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
ladies...."Magic Didgets" is what I'm fondly called :-)
Seriously though,I use straightened coat-hanger wire and a bit of
making tape to hold the Teflon washer in place.The pin pushes easily
through the masking tape and the wonderful toxic soup,called the
St.Lawrence River,takes care of whatever tape remains on the washer.
Your idea of using grease sounds equally feasible providing it is
thick enough for apparently it can otherwise slip sliding around as
happened to you.Bless you for your patience and hours worth of
perservance! Mind you,if you have a helper, it is far easier to
install the washer from beneath the boat as the distance the washer
has to travel is...well...but a fingers length away :-) Provided too
that your helper does not drop the board through the slot !
BTW, I am totally stunned and impressed with that photo you linked
to.Amazing bit of photography and hyper clear pictures.Thought I was
looking at big close-ups of a model,they were THAT clear!
After building the centerboard case and board for Windermere, I do
not know why Bolger doesn't do ALL his C/B installs this way.A
fantastic method, if I do say so myself. To wit; instead of the C/B
pin sliding through the centerboard and held in place with cheek
pieces on the outside of the centerboard box, he calls for a long V
shaped slot on the inside faces of the centerboard case sides along
which the centerboard pin(permanently installed through the
centerboard)slides down into and the board is held down with
matching V shaped wedges resting atop the pins and held down by the
centerboard case covering board. This allows for relatively easy
removal and inspection of the centerboard while in the water without
ever having to deal with water rushing in happily through those
(often bellow the waterline) typical centerboard pin locations.
It does require a substantially thicker and hence heavier
centerboard box BUT I cannot see how this low and centered "extra
weight" is bad for the boats stability.
Thanks again for that fantastic photo Roger!
Sincerely,
Peter"Magic Didgets" Lenihan, happy to never again deal with loose
pins,packing grease,backing plates,grease covered screw-
drivers,grease covered screws,grease covered hands and later grease
smeared face,grease covered clothes...in fact, the only place I
wanna see grease is at the bottom of the cooking tins my crewette
uses to produce some amazingly great pies,cakes,muffins,cookies and
other odd bits of artery clogging food assured to having you dying
over-weight and smiling,from along the shores of the always polluted
St.Lawrence River.................
>and skinny
> That sounds great, Peter, but are your fingers really long enough
> enough to get the Teflon washers on the pivot pin as you insertthe HEAVY
> centerboard into the case?Yes they are Roger and that's why I'm such a hit with the
ladies...."Magic Didgets" is what I'm fondly called :-)
Seriously though,I use straightened coat-hanger wire and a bit of
making tape to hold the Teflon washer in place.The pin pushes easily
through the masking tape and the wonderful toxic soup,called the
St.Lawrence River,takes care of whatever tape remains on the washer.
Your idea of using grease sounds equally feasible providing it is
thick enough for apparently it can otherwise slip sliding around as
happened to you.Bless you for your patience and hours worth of
perservance! Mind you,if you have a helper, it is far easier to
install the washer from beneath the boat as the distance the washer
has to travel is...well...but a fingers length away :-) Provided too
that your helper does not drop the board through the slot !
BTW, I am totally stunned and impressed with that photo you linked
to.Amazing bit of photography and hyper clear pictures.Thought I was
looking at big close-ups of a model,they were THAT clear!
After building the centerboard case and board for Windermere, I do
not know why Bolger doesn't do ALL his C/B installs this way.A
fantastic method, if I do say so myself. To wit; instead of the C/B
pin sliding through the centerboard and held in place with cheek
pieces on the outside of the centerboard box, he calls for a long V
shaped slot on the inside faces of the centerboard case sides along
which the centerboard pin(permanently installed through the
centerboard)slides down into and the board is held down with
matching V shaped wedges resting atop the pins and held down by the
centerboard case covering board. This allows for relatively easy
removal and inspection of the centerboard while in the water without
ever having to deal with water rushing in happily through those
(often bellow the waterline) typical centerboard pin locations.
It does require a substantially thicker and hence heavier
centerboard box BUT I cannot see how this low and centered "extra
weight" is bad for the boats stability.
Thanks again for that fantastic photo Roger!
Sincerely,
Peter"Magic Didgets" Lenihan, happy to never again deal with loose
pins,packing grease,backing plates,grease covered screw-
drivers,grease covered screws,grease covered hands and later grease
smeared face,grease covered clothes...in fact, the only place I
wanna see grease is at the bottom of the cooking tins my crewette
uses to produce some amazingly great pies,cakes,muffins,cookies and
other odd bits of artery clogging food assured to having you dying
over-weight and smiling,from along the shores of the always polluted
St.Lawrence River.................
Peter and Roger, thank you both, you've given me much to think about.
I think I'm just going to mortise a couple of washers into the trunk
sides and leave the plates proud on the board itself. That should
ensure a snug and rattle free fit. It better, 'cause once its all
epoxied into the boat its gonna take a chainsaw to remodel the trunk.
But, the board is removable... so there's always another angle. LOL
Regards,Chris
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...>
wrote:
I think I'm just going to mortise a couple of washers into the trunk
sides and leave the plates proud on the board itself. That should
ensure a snug and rattle free fit. It better, 'cause once its all
epoxied into the boat its gonna take a chainsaw to remodel the trunk.
But, the board is removable... so there's always another angle. LOL
Regards,Chris
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...>
wrote:
>and skinny
> That sounds great, Peter, but are your fingers really long enough
> enough to get the Teflon washers on the pivot pin as you insert theHEAVY
> centerboard into the case?have
>
> When I've tried "pasting" such a washer with grease or ???, things
> ALWAYS slipped enough that the cure required hours and many, manycurses.
>Chebacco.
> Otherwise, you're describing the arrangement I've built for my
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/CBdetail.htmlof
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 3:52 AM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Greetings and question
>
>
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "lowerohio" <lowerohio@> wrote:
> >> I used 1/8" stainless for the 2 metal plates that bear on the pin
> >> and I don't know whether to mortise them into the board or let
> >> them fill the gap between the board and the trunk sides. Hope
> >> that's clear.
> >
> > Hi Chris,
> >
> > Let's begin with:what do the plans specify? If they are not
> > clear on this or simply leave it up to the builder,then the next
> > step would be to determine whether or not you actually have enough
> > clearance inside the case for both the board and the plates.
> >
> > For a really slick job, I would be sorely tempted to mortise the
> > plates into the centerboard case AND ADD plates mortised into the
> > centerboard as well, followed by a thin piece of
> > teflon/nylon/plastic same size as the plates,to act as a bushing
> > sorts between the two plates.Of course all of this would be donefit,minimal
> > with a sharp eye on the FINAL clearances for a nice snug
> > clunking around of a loose board and slick,chafe-free, centerboardexperienced
> > operation.When mortising the plates,be sure to fully saturate
> > the"pocket" with clear epoxy before finally installing the
> > plates.Consider also scoring the back face of the plates and using
> > some 3M5200,spread thinly,to attach the plates instead of drilling
> > holes(rot-spots) for screws/nails.
> >
> > Hope this both helps and makes sense ! Better still would be for
> > some lurking Bolger cat builders to speak right up with
> > suggestions :-)progress
> >
> > Good luck with the building and do not be shy about posting
> > pictures etc,into one of the Bolger storage sitesflogging dead
> > (Bolger1,Bolger2,Bolger3 etc......)
> >
> > Sincerely,
> >
> > Peter Lenihan,from along the shores of the mighty
> > St.Lawrence..........
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or
> > horsesposts
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away01930, Fax:
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> > (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
That sounds great, Peter, but are your fingers really long enough and skinny
enough to get the Teflon washers on the pivot pin as you insert the HEAVY
centerboard into the case?
When I've tried "pasting" such a washer with grease or ???, things have
ALWAYS slipped enough that the cure required hours and many, many curses.
Otherwise, you're describing the arrangement I've built for my Chebacco.
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/CBdetail.html
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
enough to get the Teflon washers on the pivot pin as you insert the HEAVY
centerboard into the case?
When I've tried "pasting" such a washer with grease or ???, things have
ALWAYS slipped enough that the cure required hours and many, many curses.
Otherwise, you're describing the arrangement I've built for my Chebacco.
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/CBdetail.html
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 3:52 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Greetings and question
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "lowerohio" <lowerohio@...> wrote:
>> I used 1/8" stainless for the 2 metal plates that bear on the pin
>> and I don't know whether to mortise them into the board or let
>> them fill the gap between the board and the trunk sides. Hope
>> that's clear.
>
> Hi Chris,
>
> Let's begin with:what do the plans specify? If they are not
> clear on this or simply leave it up to the builder,then the next
> step would be to determine whether or not you actually have enough
> clearance inside the case for both the board and the plates.
>
> For a really slick job, I would be sorely tempted to mortise the
> plates into the centerboard case AND ADD plates mortised into the
> centerboard as well, followed by a thin piece of
> teflon/nylon/plastic same size as the plates,to act as a bushing of
> sorts between the two plates.Of course all of this would be done
> with a sharp eye on the FINAL clearances for a nice snug fit,minimal
> clunking around of a loose board and slick,chafe-free, centerboard
> operation.When mortising the plates,be sure to fully saturate
> the"pocket" with clear epoxy before finally installing the
> plates.Consider also scoring the back face of the plates and using
> some 3M5200,spread thinly,to attach the plates instead of drilling
> holes(rot-spots) for screws/nails.
>
> Hope this both helps and makes sense ! Better still would be for
> some lurking Bolger cat builders to speak right up with experienced
> suggestions :-)
>
> Good luck with the building and do not be shy about posting progress
> pictures etc,into one of the Bolger storage sites
> (Bolger1,Bolger2,Bolger3 etc......)
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Peter Lenihan,from along the shores of the mighty
> St.Lawrence..........
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
> horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "lowerohio" <lowerohio@...> wrote:
Let's begin with:what do the plans specify? If they are not
clear on this or simply leave it up to the builder,then the next
step would be to determine whether or not you actually have enough
clearance inside the case for both the board and the plates.
For a really slick job, I would be sorely tempted to mortise the
plates into the centerboard case AND ADD plates mortised into the
centerboard as well, followed by a thin piece of
teflon/nylon/plastic same size as the plates,to act as a bushing of
sorts between the two plates.Of course all of this would be done
with a sharp eye on the FINAL clearances for a nice snug fit,minimal
clunking around of a loose board and slick,chafe-free, centerboard
operation.When mortising the plates,be sure to fully saturate
the"pocket" with clear epoxy before finally installing the
plates.Consider also scoring the back face of the plates and using
some 3M5200,spread thinly,to attach the plates instead of drilling
holes(rot-spots) for screws/nails.
Hope this both helps and makes sense ! Better still would be for
some lurking Bolger cat builders to speak right up with experienced
suggestions :-)
Good luck with the building and do not be shy about posting progress
pictures etc,into one of the Bolger storage sites
(Bolger1,Bolger2,Bolger3 etc......)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,from along the shores of the mighty
St.Lawrence..........
> I used 1/8" stainless for the 2 metal plates that bear on the pinand I
> don't know whether to mortise them into the board or let them fillthe
> gap between the board and the trunk sides. Hope that's clear.Hi Chris,
> What say you all?
> Regards, Chris
Let's begin with:what do the plans specify? If they are not
clear on this or simply leave it up to the builder,then the next
step would be to determine whether or not you actually have enough
clearance inside the case for both the board and the plates.
For a really slick job, I would be sorely tempted to mortise the
plates into the centerboard case AND ADD plates mortised into the
centerboard as well, followed by a thin piece of
teflon/nylon/plastic same size as the plates,to act as a bushing of
sorts between the two plates.Of course all of this would be done
with a sharp eye on the FINAL clearances for a nice snug fit,minimal
clunking around of a loose board and slick,chafe-free, centerboard
operation.When mortising the plates,be sure to fully saturate
the"pocket" with clear epoxy before finally installing the
plates.Consider also scoring the back face of the plates and using
some 3M5200,spread thinly,to attach the plates instead of drilling
holes(rot-spots) for screws/nails.
Hope this both helps and makes sense ! Better still would be for
some lurking Bolger cat builders to speak right up with experienced
suggestions :-)
Good luck with the building and do not be shy about posting progress
pictures etc,into one of the Bolger storage sites
(Bolger1,Bolger2,Bolger3 etc......)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,from along the shores of the mighty
St.Lawrence..........
Hello to all from maritime Canada.
I joined last week. To qualify for membership I wrote that I had just
taped the bottom seams on my Tiny Cat.
Finished the in side taping this week and am now on the centreboard.
Actually I've got all the pieces cut, holes bored and edges
faired...and stop!
I used 1/8" stainless for the 2 metal plates that bear on the pin and I
don't know whether to mortise them into the board or let them fill the
gap between the board and the trunk sides. Hope that's clear.
What say you all?
Regards, Chris
I joined last week. To qualify for membership I wrote that I had just
taped the bottom seams on my Tiny Cat.
Finished the in side taping this week and am now on the centreboard.
Actually I've got all the pieces cut, holes bored and edges
faired...and stop!
I used 1/8" stainless for the 2 metal plates that bear on the pin and I
don't know whether to mortise them into the board or let them fill the
gap between the board and the trunk sides. Hope that's clear.
What say you all?
Regards, Chris