Re: Sika epoxy Question Sikadur 52 or Sikadur 61
I don't think you need epoxy for a boat you will ony use for three
weeks.
weeks.
--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
>
> I'd suggest you visit the System Three web site and check out "The
Epoxy
> Book." http://www.systemthree.com/index_2.asp They require
registration,
> but no charge, and they discuss the chemistry of epoxies and what
goes well
> where.
>
> As I, a non-chemist, understand it, the magic is in the hardener
additives
> and what you're after is a match between the cured epoxy and the
material
> being bonded. Mixing ratio and pot life and cure time and
viscosity and
> degree of blush are other variables of interest, along with the
ambient
> temperature where you'll be mixing the resin with the hardener.
When the
> aircraft companies were learning to use the stuff it was common to
see one
> or more tin cans sitting on the apron blazing away from the
exothermic
> reaction contained in too large a mix quantity and a small surface
area
> container. In the three or four ounce quantities I mix, I've had
them get
> too hot to hold, but never smoke or melt the plastic pot.
>
> The 1:1 general purpose epoxies from the local hardware store
harden to a
> glass-like clear substance which is great for repairing tea cups,
but not at
> all good for wooden boat building. System Three (for their three
different
> speed hardeners) and West System (because nobody can spell
Gougeon) use 2:1
> and 5:1 ratios respectively and have been used for boat building
for many
> years. They also offer specialty goops for surfboard makers and
for coating
> or rot repair.
>
> The next consideration is the stuff you mix in after the resin and
hardener
> are well stirred. Without a thixotropic agent, epoxy will ooze
thru the
> smallest pinhole and end up on the floor. I like wood flour but
Cab-O-Sil
> also works (brown vs. white). Other materials are also added to
supply
> strength and/or to make the sanding/fairing easier (milled glass,
chopped
> glass fibers and/or phenolic or quartz microspheres). Fiberglass
cloth
> reinforces the epoxy so that the plywood checking doesn't rupture
the
> waterproofing. Fiberglass tape reinforces joints.
>
> There is a learning curve, so if you have time I'd suggest
building
> something with the chosen material before your expedition. Wear
gloves and
> keep the goop off of your skin! Wear old, disposable clothes
whenever you
> get within ten feet of your project.
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@...
> http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ANDREW AIREY" <andyairey@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 11:30 AM
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Sika epoxy Question Sikadur 52 or Sikadur 61
>
>
> > Hi all
> >
> > Am using this as a follow up to my earlier query about
> > epoxies because it may have some relevance.
> > 1.What precisely is special about marine epoxies.
> > The reason I ask is that my fibreglass cloth supplier
> > can do what he describes as a 'General Purpose Epoxy'
> > at about half the price of the marine epoxies although
> > he is aware of the SP systems products(I'm in the UK).
> > The point is,for brief or interior use,does it matter,
> > since the epoxy is not going to be exposed to the
> > water at all,or as in the original query,only briefly.
> > In any case,if the boat is to be painted,ideally with
> > a marine paint,would this not protect the epoxy.A more
> > serious point for those of us rebuilding a boat and
> > expecting to use it for a while,is the effect of a
> > hard epoxy coating on the wood.A book I have on
> > restoring powerboats alleges that hard epoxies will
> > separate from the wood,taking some of the wood with
> > it,and allowing rot to continue apace underneath, and
> > what you want is a 'penetrating' epoxy like Smith's
> > Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer which has a more
> > flexible effect.It's been getting me thoroughly
> > confused
> > Cheers
> > Andy Airey
> > --- electricdrjoe <electrichospital@...>
> > wrote:
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> >
> > Dear fellow boaters: I am planning a boat building
> > adventure to Chile.
> > I plan to fly in, build a boat with local materials,
> > float a river and
> > fly home in 3 weeks. I have questions about epoxy
> > from Sika. I found a
> > translated page
> > http://translate.google.com/translate?
hl=en&sl=es&u=http://www.windsurf.\
> > cl/modules.php%3Fop%3Dmodload%26name%3Dph%26file%3Dread%26f%3D1%
26i%3D24\
> > 876%26t%3D24818&prev=/search%3Fq%3DTerciado%2Bmarino%26hl%3Den%
26lr%3D%2\
> > 6rls%3DGGLD,GGLD:2005-16,GGLD:en
> > <http://translate.google.com/translate?
hl=en&sl=es&u=http://www.windsurf\
> > .cl/modules.php%3Fop%3Dmodload%26name%3Dph%26file%3Dread%26f%3D1%
26i%3D2\
> > 4876%26t%3D24818&prev=/search%3Fq%3DTerciado%2Bmarino%26hl%3Den%
26lr%3D%\
> > 26rls%3DGGLD,GGLD:2005-16,GGLD:en> that mentions
> > Sikadur 52 as a
> > windsurf/boat building epoxy. My spanish is poor and
> > I am sure the
> > automatic translation is not good.
> >
> > I did find the Swiss company Sika in Chile
> > http://www.waterproofing-supplies.com.au/sika/sikadur52.htmlbut
> > <http://www.waterproofing-supplies.com.au/sika/sikadur52.htmlbut>
> > they
> > have not responded to my email. I can understand
> > their reluctance to
> > encourage such a crazy idea as they may worry about
> > liability in using
> > concrete patching epoxy in a stitch and glue boat.
> >
> > Has anyone used these products for boat building? Are
> > there other
> > epoxies in Chile I should consider?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thank you for any advice.
> >
> >
> >
> > Sincerly,
> >
> >
> >
> > Joe Neill
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming,
> > or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed,
> > thanks, Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts,
> > and snip away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:
> > bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
> >
> >
> > Visit your group "bolger" on the web.
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
> > Terms of Service.
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ___________________________________________________________
> > Switch an email account to Yahoo! Mail, you could win FIFA World
Cup
> > tickets. http://uk.mail.yahoo.com
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or
flogging dead
> > horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip
away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax:
> > (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
All excellent advice. There's a lot to know and to
get comfortable with. System Three has a kit for I
think $30 US that should give you enough stuff to try
it out on yr various materials and find out what
happens. Try yr marine paint on cured epoxy as well
to find out if it will stick.
Eric
--- derbyrm <derbyrm@...> wrote:
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
get comfortable with. System Three has a kit for I
think $30 US that should give you enough stuff to try
it out on yr various materials and find out what
happens. Try yr marine paint on cured epoxy as well
to find out if it will stick.
Eric
--- derbyrm <derbyrm@...> wrote:
> I'd suggest you visit the System Three web site andhttp://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=es&u=http://www.windsurf.\
> check out "The Epoxy
> Book."http://www.systemthree.com/index_2.aspThey
> require registration,
> but no charge, and they discuss the chemistry of
> epoxies and what goes well
> where.
>
> As I, a non-chemist, understand it, the magic is in
> the hardener additives
> and what you're after is a match between the cured
> epoxy and the material
> being bonded. Mixing ratio and pot life and cure
> time and viscosity and
> degree of blush are other variables of interest,
> along with the ambient
> temperature where you'll be mixing the resin with
> the hardener. When the
> aircraft companies were learning to use the stuff it
> was common to see one
> or more tin cans sitting on the apron blazing away
> from the exothermic
> reaction contained in too large a mix quantity and a
> small surface area
> container. In the three or four ounce quantities I
> mix, I've had them get
> too hot to hold, but never smoke or melt the plastic
> pot.
>
> The 1:1 general purpose epoxies from the local
> hardware store harden to a
> glass-like clear substance which is great for
> repairing tea cups, but not at
> all good for wooden boat building. System Three
> (for their three different
> speed hardeners) and West System (because nobody can
> spell Gougeon) use 2:1
> and 5:1 ratios respectively and have been used for
> boat building for many
> years. They also offer specialty goops for
> surfboard makers and for coating
> or rot repair.
>
> The next consideration is the stuff you mix in after
> the resin and hardener
> are well stirred. Without a thixotropic agent,
> epoxy will ooze thru the
> smallest pinhole and end up on the floor. I like
> wood flour but Cab-O-Sil
> also works (brown vs. white). Other materials are
> also added to supply
> strength and/or to make the sanding/fairing easier
> (milled glass, chopped
> glass fibers and/or phenolic or quartz
> microspheres). Fiberglass cloth
> reinforces the epoxy so that the plywood checking
> doesn't rupture the
> waterproofing. Fiberglass tape reinforces joints.
>
> There is a learning curve, so if you have time I'd
> suggest building
> something with the chosen material before your
> expedition. Wear gloves and
> keep the goop off of your skin! Wear old,
> disposable clothes whenever you
> get within ten feet of your project.
>
> Roger
>derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ANDREW AIREY" <andyairey@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 11:30 AM
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Sika epoxy Question Sikadur 52
> or Sikadur 61
>
>
> > Hi all
> >
> > Am using this as a follow up to my earlier query
> about
> > epoxies because it may have some relevance.
> > 1.What precisely is special about marine epoxies.
> > The reason I ask is that my fibreglass cloth
> supplier
> > can do what he describes as a 'General Purpose
> Epoxy'
> > at about half the price of the marine epoxies
> although
> > he is aware of the SP systems products(I'm in the
> UK).
> > The point is,for brief or interior use,does it
> matter,
> > since the epoxy is not going to be exposed to the
> > water at all,or as in the original query,only
> briefly.
> > In any case,if the boat is to be painted,ideally
> with
> > a marine paint,would this not protect the epoxy.A
> more
> > serious point for those of us rebuilding a boat
> and
> > expecting to use it for a while,is the effect of a
> > hard epoxy coating on the wood.A book I have on
> > restoring powerboats alleges that hard epoxies
> will
> > separate from the wood,taking some of the wood
> with
> > it,and allowing rot to continue apace underneath,
> and
> > what you want is a 'penetrating' epoxy like
> Smith's
> > Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer which has a more
> > flexible effect.It's been getting me thoroughly
> > confused
> > Cheers
> > Andy Airey
> > --- electricdrjoe <electrichospital@...>
> > wrote:
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> >
> > Dear fellow boaters: I am planning a boat
> building
> > adventure to Chile.
> > I plan to fly in, build a boat with local
> materials,
> > float a river and
> > fly home in 3 weeks. I have questions about epoxy
> > from Sika. I found a
> > translated page
> >
>
> >cl/modules.php%3Fop%3Dmodload%26name%3Dph%26file%3Dread%26f%3D1%26i%3D24\
>
> >876%26t%3D24818&prev=/search%3Fq%3DTerciado%2Bmarino%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%2\
>
> > 6rls%3DGGLD,GGLD:2005-16,GGLD:en<http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=es&u=http://www.windsurf\
> >
>
> >.cl/modules.php%3Fop%3Dmodload%26name%3Dph%26file%3Dread%26f%3D1%26i%3D2\
>
> >4876%26t%3D24818&prev=/search%3Fq%3DTerciado%2Bmarino%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%\
>
> > 26rls%3DGGLD,GGLD:2005-16,GGLD:en> that mentionshttp://www.waterproofing-supplies.com.au/sika/sikadur52.htmlbut
> > Sikadur 52 as a
> > windsurf/boat building epoxy. My spanish is poor
> and
> > I am sure the
> > automatic translation is not good.
> >
> > I did find the Swiss company Sika in Chile
> >
>
> ><http://www.waterproofing-supplies.com.au/sika/sikadur52.htmlbut>
>
> > they=== message truncated ===
> > have not responded to my email. I can understand
> > their reluctance to
> > encourage such a crazy idea as they may worry
> about
> > liability in using
> > concrete patching epoxy in a stitch and glue boat.
> >
> > Has anyone used these products for boat building?
> Are
> > there other
> > epoxies in Chile I should consider?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thank you for any advice.
> >
> >
> >
> > Sincerly,
> >
> >
> >
> > Joe Neill
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming,
> respamming,
> > or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no
> 'Ed,
> > thanks, Fred' posts
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
I'd suggest you visit the System Three web site and check out "The Epoxy
Book."http://www.systemthree.com/index_2.aspThey require registration,
but no charge, and they discuss the chemistry of epoxies and what goes well
where.
As I, a non-chemist, understand it, the magic is in the hardener additives
and what you're after is a match between the cured epoxy and the material
being bonded. Mixing ratio and pot life and cure time and viscosity and
degree of blush are other variables of interest, along with the ambient
temperature where you'll be mixing the resin with the hardener. When the
aircraft companies were learning to use the stuff it was common to see one
or more tin cans sitting on the apron blazing away from the exothermic
reaction contained in too large a mix quantity and a small surface area
container. In the three or four ounce quantities I mix, I've had them get
too hot to hold, but never smoke or melt the plastic pot.
The 1:1 general purpose epoxies from the local hardware store harden to a
glass-like clear substance which is great for repairing tea cups, but not at
all good for wooden boat building. System Three (for their three different
speed hardeners) and West System (because nobody can spell Gougeon) use 2:1
and 5:1 ratios respectively and have been used for boat building for many
years. They also offer specialty goops for surfboard makers and for coating
or rot repair.
The next consideration is the stuff you mix in after the resin and hardener
are well stirred. Without a thixotropic agent, epoxy will ooze thru the
smallest pinhole and end up on the floor. I like wood flour but Cab-O-Sil
also works (brown vs. white). Other materials are also added to supply
strength and/or to make the sanding/fairing easier (milled glass, chopped
glass fibers and/or phenolic or quartz microspheres). Fiberglass cloth
reinforces the epoxy so that the plywood checking doesn't rupture the
waterproofing. Fiberglass tape reinforces joints.
There is a learning curve, so if you have time I'd suggest building
something with the chosen material before your expedition. Wear gloves and
keep the goop off of your skin! Wear old, disposable clothes whenever you
get within ten feet of your project.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
Book."http://www.systemthree.com/index_2.aspThey require registration,
but no charge, and they discuss the chemistry of epoxies and what goes well
where.
As I, a non-chemist, understand it, the magic is in the hardener additives
and what you're after is a match between the cured epoxy and the material
being bonded. Mixing ratio and pot life and cure time and viscosity and
degree of blush are other variables of interest, along with the ambient
temperature where you'll be mixing the resin with the hardener. When the
aircraft companies were learning to use the stuff it was common to see one
or more tin cans sitting on the apron blazing away from the exothermic
reaction contained in too large a mix quantity and a small surface area
container. In the three or four ounce quantities I mix, I've had them get
too hot to hold, but never smoke or melt the plastic pot.
The 1:1 general purpose epoxies from the local hardware store harden to a
glass-like clear substance which is great for repairing tea cups, but not at
all good for wooden boat building. System Three (for their three different
speed hardeners) and West System (because nobody can spell Gougeon) use 2:1
and 5:1 ratios respectively and have been used for boat building for many
years. They also offer specialty goops for surfboard makers and for coating
or rot repair.
The next consideration is the stuff you mix in after the resin and hardener
are well stirred. Without a thixotropic agent, epoxy will ooze thru the
smallest pinhole and end up on the floor. I like wood flour but Cab-O-Sil
also works (brown vs. white). Other materials are also added to supply
strength and/or to make the sanding/fairing easier (milled glass, chopped
glass fibers and/or phenolic or quartz microspheres). Fiberglass cloth
reinforces the epoxy so that the plywood checking doesn't rupture the
waterproofing. Fiberglass tape reinforces joints.
There is a learning curve, so if you have time I'd suggest building
something with the chosen material before your expedition. Wear gloves and
keep the goop off of your skin! Wear old, disposable clothes whenever you
get within ten feet of your project.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: "ANDREW AIREY" <andyairey@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 11:30 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Sika epoxy Question Sikadur 52 or Sikadur 61
> Hi all
>
> Am using this as a follow up to my earlier query about
> epoxies because it may have some relevance.
> 1.What precisely is special about marine epoxies.
> The reason I ask is that my fibreglass cloth supplier
> can do what he describes as a 'General Purpose Epoxy'
> at about half the price of the marine epoxies although
> he is aware of the SP systems products(I'm in the UK).
> The point is,for brief or interior use,does it matter,
> since the epoxy is not going to be exposed to the
> water at all,or as in the original query,only briefly.
> In any case,if the boat is to be painted,ideally with
> a marine paint,would this not protect the epoxy.A more
> serious point for those of us rebuilding a boat and
> expecting to use it for a while,is the effect of a
> hard epoxy coating on the wood.A book I have on
> restoring powerboats alleges that hard epoxies will
> separate from the wood,taking some of the wood with
> it,and allowing rot to continue apace underneath, and
> what you want is a 'penetrating' epoxy like Smith's
> Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer which has a more
> flexible effect.It's been getting me thoroughly
> confused
> Cheers
> Andy Airey
> --- electricdrjoe <electrichospital@...>
> wrote:
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
> Dear fellow boaters: I am planning a boat building
> adventure to Chile.
> I plan to fly in, build a boat with local materials,
> float a river and
> fly home in 3 weeks. I have questions about epoxy
> from Sika. I found a
> translated page
>http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=es&u=http://www.windsurf.\
> cl/modules.php%3Fop%3Dmodload%26name%3Dph%26file%3Dread%26f%3D1%26i%3D24\
> 876%26t%3D24818&prev=/search%3Fq%3DTerciado%2Bmarino%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%2\
> 6rls%3DGGLD,GGLD:2005-16,GGLD:en
> <http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=es&u=http://www.windsurf\
> .cl/modules.php%3Fop%3Dmodload%26name%3Dph%26file%3Dread%26f%3D1%26i%3D2\
> 4876%26t%3D24818&prev=/search%3Fq%3DTerciado%2Bmarino%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%\
> 26rls%3DGGLD,GGLD:2005-16,GGLD:en> that mentions
> Sikadur 52 as a
> windsurf/boat building epoxy. My spanish is poor and
> I am sure the
> automatic translation is not good.
>
> I did find the Swiss company Sika in Chile
>http://www.waterproofing-supplies.com.au/sika/sikadur52.htmlbut
> <http://www.waterproofing-supplies.com.au/sika/sikadur52.htmlbut>
> they
> have not responded to my email. I can understand
> their reluctance to
> encourage such a crazy idea as they may worry about
> liability in using
> concrete patching epoxy in a stitch and glue boat.
>
> Has anyone used these products for boat building? Are
> there other
> epoxies in Chile I should consider?
>
>
>
> Thank you for any advice.
>
>
>
> Sincerly,
>
>
>
> Joe Neill
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming,
> or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed,
> thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts,
> and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:
>bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
> Visit your group "bolger" on the web.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
> Terms of Service.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
> Switch an email account to Yahoo! Mail, you could win FIFA World Cup
> tickets.http://uk.mail.yahoo.com
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
> horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Hi all
Am using this as a follow up to my earlier query about
epoxies because it may have some relevance.
1.What precisely is special about marine epoxies.
The reason I ask is that my fibreglass cloth supplier
can do what he describes as a 'General Purpose Epoxy'
at about half the price of the marine epoxies although
he is aware of the SP systems products(I'm in the UK).
The point is,for brief or interior use,does it matter,
since the epoxy is not going to be exposed to the
water at all,or as in the original query,only briefly.
In any case,if the boat is to be painted,ideally with
a marine paint,would this not protect the epoxy.A more
serious point for those of us rebuilding a boat and
expecting to use it for a while,is the effect of a
hard epoxy coating on the wood.A book I have on
restoring powerboats alleges that hard epoxies will
separate from the wood,taking some of the wood with
it,and allowing rot to continue apace underneath, and
what you want is a 'penetrating' epoxy like Smith's
Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer which has a more
flexible effect.It's been getting me thoroughly
confused
Cheers
Andy Airey
--- electricdrjoe <electrichospital@...>
wrote:
---------------------------------
Dear fellow boaters: I am planning a boat building
adventure to Chile.
I plan to fly in, build a boat with local materials,
float a river and
fly home in 3 weeks. I have questions about epoxy
from Sika. I found a
translated page
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=es&u=http://www.windsurf.\
cl/modules.php%3Fop%3Dmodload%26name%3Dph%26file%3Dread%26f%3D1%26i%3D24\
876%26t%3D24818&prev=/search%3Fq%3DTerciado%2Bmarino%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%2\
6rls%3DGGLD,GGLD:2005-16,GGLD:en
<http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=es&u=http://www.windsurf\
.cl/modules.php%3Fop%3Dmodload%26name%3Dph%26file%3Dread%26f%3D1%26i%3D2\
4876%26t%3D24818&prev=/search%3Fq%3DTerciado%2Bmarino%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%\
26rls%3DGGLD,GGLD:2005-16,GGLD:en> that mentions
Sikadur 52 as a
windsurf/boat building epoxy. My spanish is poor and
I am sure the
automatic translation is not good.
I did find the Swiss company Sika in Chile
http://www.waterproofing-supplies.com.au/sika/sikadur52.htmlbut
<http://www.waterproofing-supplies.com.au/sika/sikadur52.htmlbut>
they
have not responded to my email. I can understand
their reluctance to
encourage such a crazy idea as they may worry about
liability in using
concrete patching epoxy in a stitch and glue boat.
Has anyone used these products for boat building? Are
there other
epoxies in Chile I should consider?
Thank you for any advice.
Sincerly,
Joe Neill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bolger rules!!!
- NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming,
or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed,
thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts,
and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:
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---------------------------------
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---------------------------------
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Am using this as a follow up to my earlier query about
epoxies because it may have some relevance.
1.What precisely is special about marine epoxies.
The reason I ask is that my fibreglass cloth supplier
can do what he describes as a 'General Purpose Epoxy'
at about half the price of the marine epoxies although
he is aware of the SP systems products(I'm in the UK).
The point is,for brief or interior use,does it matter,
since the epoxy is not going to be exposed to the
water at all,or as in the original query,only briefly.
In any case,if the boat is to be painted,ideally with
a marine paint,would this not protect the epoxy.A more
serious point for those of us rebuilding a boat and
expecting to use it for a while,is the effect of a
hard epoxy coating on the wood.A book I have on
restoring powerboats alleges that hard epoxies will
separate from the wood,taking some of the wood with
it,and allowing rot to continue apace underneath, and
what you want is a 'penetrating' epoxy like Smith's
Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer which has a more
flexible effect.It's been getting me thoroughly
confused
Cheers
Andy Airey
--- electricdrjoe <electrichospital@...>
wrote:
---------------------------------
Dear fellow boaters: I am planning a boat building
adventure to Chile.
I plan to fly in, build a boat with local materials,
float a river and
fly home in 3 weeks. I have questions about epoxy
from Sika. I found a
translated page
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=es&u=http://www.windsurf.\
cl/modules.php%3Fop%3Dmodload%26name%3Dph%26file%3Dread%26f%3D1%26i%3D24\
876%26t%3D24818&prev=/search%3Fq%3DTerciado%2Bmarino%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%2\
6rls%3DGGLD,GGLD:2005-16,GGLD:en
<http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=es&u=http://www.windsurf\
.cl/modules.php%3Fop%3Dmodload%26name%3Dph%26file%3Dread%26f%3D1%26i%3D2\
4876%26t%3D24818&prev=/search%3Fq%3DTerciado%2Bmarino%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%\
26rls%3DGGLD,GGLD:2005-16,GGLD:en> that mentions
Sikadur 52 as a
windsurf/boat building epoxy. My spanish is poor and
I am sure the
automatic translation is not good.
I did find the Swiss company Sika in Chile
http://www.waterproofing-supplies.com.au/sika/sikadur52.htmlbut
<http://www.waterproofing-supplies.com.au/sika/sikadur52.htmlbut>
they
have not responded to my email. I can understand
their reluctance to
encourage such a crazy idea as they may worry about
liability in using
concrete patching epoxy in a stitch and glue boat.
Has anyone used these products for boat building? Are
there other
epoxies in Chile I should consider?
Thank you for any advice.
Sincerly,
Joe Neill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bolger rules!!!
- NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming,
or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed,
thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts,
and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:
bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
---------------------------------
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
Visit your group "bolger" on the web.
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
Terms of Service.
---------------------------------
___________________________________________________________
Switch an email account to Yahoo! Mail, you could win FIFA World Cup tickets.http://uk.mail.yahoo.com
Dear fellow boaters: I am planning a boat building adventure to Chile.
I plan to fly in, build a boat with local materials, float a river and
fly home in 3 weeks. I have questions about epoxy from Sika. I found a
translated page
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=es&u=http://www.windsurf.\
cl/modules.php%3Fop%3Dmodload%26name%3Dph%26file%3Dread%26f%3D1%26i%3D24\
876%26t%3D24818&prev=/search%3Fq%3DTerciado%2Bmarino%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%2\
6rls%3DGGLD,GGLD:2005-16,GGLD:en
<http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=es&u=http://www.windsurf\
.cl/modules.php%3Fop%3Dmodload%26name%3Dph%26file%3Dread%26f%3D1%26i%3D2\
4876%26t%3D24818&prev=/search%3Fq%3DTerciado%2Bmarino%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%\
26rls%3DGGLD,GGLD:2005-16,GGLD:en> that mentions Sikadur 52 as a
windsurf/boat building epoxy. My spanish is poor and I am sure the
automatic translation is not good.
I did find the Swiss company Sika in Chile
http://www.waterproofing-supplies.com.au/sika/sikadur52.htmlbut
<http://www.waterproofing-supplies.com.au/sika/sikadur52.htmlbut> they
have not responded to my email. I can understand their reluctance to
encourage such a crazy idea as they may worry about liability in using
concrete patching epoxy in a stitch and glue boat.
Has anyone used these products for boat building? Are there other
epoxies in Chile I should consider?
Thank you for any advice.
Sincerly,
Joe Neill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I plan to fly in, build a boat with local materials, float a river and
fly home in 3 weeks. I have questions about epoxy from Sika. I found a
translated page
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=es&u=http://www.windsurf.\
cl/modules.php%3Fop%3Dmodload%26name%3Dph%26file%3Dread%26f%3D1%26i%3D24\
876%26t%3D24818&prev=/search%3Fq%3DTerciado%2Bmarino%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%2\
6rls%3DGGLD,GGLD:2005-16,GGLD:en
<http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=es&u=http://www.windsurf\
.cl/modules.php%3Fop%3Dmodload%26name%3Dph%26file%3Dread%26f%3D1%26i%3D2\
4876%26t%3D24818&prev=/search%3Fq%3DTerciado%2Bmarino%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%\
26rls%3DGGLD,GGLD:2005-16,GGLD:en> that mentions Sikadur 52 as a
windsurf/boat building epoxy. My spanish is poor and I am sure the
automatic translation is not good.
I did find the Swiss company Sika in Chile
http://www.waterproofing-supplies.com.au/sika/sikadur52.htmlbut
<http://www.waterproofing-supplies.com.au/sika/sikadur52.htmlbut> they
have not responded to my email. I can understand their reluctance to
encourage such a crazy idea as they may worry about liability in using
concrete patching epoxy in a stitch and glue boat.
Has anyone used these products for boat building? Are there other
epoxies in Chile I should consider?
Thank you for any advice.
Sincerly,
Joe Neill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]