Cartoon 40 was Re: Gypsy Modification Ideas
Jon:
I interpreted that the instructions differently, and used the
centerboard and rudder exactly as sized for the 15.5 foot version.
Might be wrong, but I think the determining factor for centerboard
(or keel) size is the size of the sail more than the size of the
hull. Don't have the plans in front of me, but as I recall, the mast
was on the aft side of the bulkhead at station 4, and that's where I
put it on the lengthened version. The boat balanced well, and I never
felt it needed a bigger centerboard. The centerboard case winds up
several inches longer than the centerboard, and you have to calculate
where to cut the slot. (Extra slot length, especially at the aft end,
means extra turbulence.)
The idea was to experiment with the hull, and it was 1/4 inch AC fir,
with a heavy overlay of glass in polyester resin. I think it was a
layer of cloth, then matt, and then cloth again, overlapped at the
bottom & stem with some extra at the stem. There was enough glass at
the stem that the internal wooden stem was probably redundant. In
retrospect, this was a dumb way to build. 3/8 inch ply on the bottom
panels, covered with a layer of cloth set in epoxy probably would
have been lighter and likely cheaper, once you figure all the extra
polyester resin and glass cloth & matt that had to be purchased.
If/when I build it again, that's the way I'll do it. 1/4 inch should
be fine for the topsides. For the deck, I used waterproof doorskin
luaun, the 5.2 mm stuff. The framing was 1x2 set on edge. With that,
the deck came out a little flexible. It was always popping when I
walked on it. Nothing failed, but next time I'll use 1x3 on edge and
regular 1/4 inch ply. The keel was a 3/4 inch thick cedar board,
whcih was plenty strong enough. There was also a 3/4 inch plank down
the center of the forward deck.
Putting in a small well forward of the mast for an anchor sounds like
a good idea; it's hard to get access to that space anyway.
My taberhacle had the mast entirely above deck.That saves about 15
inches or so of mast height. The tabernacle beams went through the
deck and were bolted into the wooden step (which runs all the way
back to the forward end of the centerboard). I just measured, and the
pivot bolt on the revamped mast is 19 inches above the deck, so
that's actually more bury that the orginal boat had. And it works;
when sail is raised the boom is 24-30 inches above the deck. It's a
small point, but it's nice to have the foredeck watertight without a
mast boot. (The bury of the original mast set up seemed a little
short to me, but it never showed any weakness.)
Gary
I interpreted that the instructions differently, and used the
centerboard and rudder exactly as sized for the 15.5 foot version.
Might be wrong, but I think the determining factor for centerboard
(or keel) size is the size of the sail more than the size of the
hull. Don't have the plans in front of me, but as I recall, the mast
was on the aft side of the bulkhead at station 4, and that's where I
put it on the lengthened version. The boat balanced well, and I never
felt it needed a bigger centerboard. The centerboard case winds up
several inches longer than the centerboard, and you have to calculate
where to cut the slot. (Extra slot length, especially at the aft end,
means extra turbulence.)
The idea was to experiment with the hull, and it was 1/4 inch AC fir,
with a heavy overlay of glass in polyester resin. I think it was a
layer of cloth, then matt, and then cloth again, overlapped at the
bottom & stem with some extra at the stem. There was enough glass at
the stem that the internal wooden stem was probably redundant. In
retrospect, this was a dumb way to build. 3/8 inch ply on the bottom
panels, covered with a layer of cloth set in epoxy probably would
have been lighter and likely cheaper, once you figure all the extra
polyester resin and glass cloth & matt that had to be purchased.
If/when I build it again, that's the way I'll do it. 1/4 inch should
be fine for the topsides. For the deck, I used waterproof doorskin
luaun, the 5.2 mm stuff. The framing was 1x2 set on edge. With that,
the deck came out a little flexible. It was always popping when I
walked on it. Nothing failed, but next time I'll use 1x3 on edge and
regular 1/4 inch ply. The keel was a 3/4 inch thick cedar board,
whcih was plenty strong enough. There was also a 3/4 inch plank down
the center of the forward deck.
Putting in a small well forward of the mast for an anchor sounds like
a good idea; it's hard to get access to that space anyway.
My taberhacle had the mast entirely above deck.That saves about 15
inches or so of mast height. The tabernacle beams went through the
deck and were bolted into the wooden step (which runs all the way
back to the forward end of the centerboard). I just measured, and the
pivot bolt on the revamped mast is 19 inches above the deck, so
that's actually more bury that the orginal boat had. And it works;
when sail is raised the boom is 24-30 inches above the deck. It's a
small point, but it's nice to have the foredeck watertight without a
mast boot. (The bury of the original mast set up seemed a little
short to me, but it never showed any weakness.)
Gary
> I just might do it, too, perhaps starting in fall for sailing nextan
> season. Lofting her looks straightforward enough. I once lofted
> 18' Noman's Land boat (from Chappelle) but never got past makingabout
> patterns for the stems.
>
> I'm a little confused on Phil's answer to John Smith, however,
> the stretched version that you apparently built. He says "...withthe
> mast, centerboard trunk, etc. in the same relationship to theadjacent
> stations,...", the operative word here being "relationship." Iand
> interpret this to mean that the centerboard becomes longer, for the
> case to take up the space between, and be braced by, bulkheads #2
> #3. However, keeping the mast right aft of bulkhead #1 would seemto
> move the CE forward relative to the CLR. Since the designed CEappears
> to be aft of the designed CLR, perhaps this is no problem and mightmuch
> result in a lighter helm, since the rudder won't have to take as
> of the lateral load. Is this how you built the boat?access
>
> While I'm asking, did you use all 1/4" ply? The AC ply I have
> to is some sort of luan, and is more flexible than I recall fir ACin
> the past. I'd be tempted to use 3/8" for the bilge panels on theadd a
> stretched version, and perhaps use solid lumber for the keel and
> chine log, to make it faster to build and avoid having to sand tapeother
> seams (I'd rather plane the log than grind seams any day). Any
> building tips or scantling sizes you'd like to pass along would betackle
> appreciated.
>
> A small house-shaped (in plan view) bow well could hold ground
> and make way for the swing of the mast if using a tabernacle. Thewalk-
> up style tabernacle, like the original Chebacco or MJ wouldprobably be
> easiest to make and allow better placement of the mast fortrailering.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jon Kolb
> www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
>
Hi Gary,
...snip...
season. Lofting her looks straightforward enough. I once lofted an
18' Noman's Land boat (from Chappelle) but never got past making
patterns for the stems.
I'm a little confused on Phil's answer to John Smith, however, about
the stretched version that you apparently built. He says "...with the
mast, centerboard trunk, etc. in the same relationship to the adjacent
stations,...", the operative word here being "relationship." I
interpret this to mean that the centerboard becomes longer, for the
case to take up the space between, and be braced by, bulkheads #2 and
#3. However, keeping the mast right aft of bulkhead #1 would seem to
move the CE forward relative to the CLR. Since the designed CE appears
to be aft of the designed CLR, perhaps this is no problem and might
result in a lighter helm, since the rudder won't have to take as much
of the lateral load. Is this how you built the boat?
While I'm asking, did you use all 1/4" ply? The AC ply I have access
to is some sort of luan, and is more flexible than I recall fir AC in
the past. I'd be tempted to use 3/8" for the bilge panels on the
stretched version, and perhaps use solid lumber for the keel and add a
chine log, to make it faster to build and avoid having to sand tape
seams (I'd rather plane the log than grind seams any day). Any other
building tips or scantling sizes you'd like to pass along would be
appreciated.
A small house-shaped (in plan view) bow well could hold ground tackle
and make way for the swing of the mast if using a tabernacle. The walk-
up style tabernacle, like the original Chebacco or MJ would probably be
easiest to make and allow better placement of the mast for trailering.
Thanks,
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
...snip...
> I don't want to sound discouraging, as this boat is worth the troubleI just might do it, too, perhaps starting in fall for sailing next
> in looks and handling. I really would like to see another one built,
> but want the builder to know what to expect!
season. Lofting her looks straightforward enough. I once lofted an
18' Noman's Land boat (from Chappelle) but never got past making
patterns for the stems.
I'm a little confused on Phil's answer to John Smith, however, about
the stretched version that you apparently built. He says "...with the
mast, centerboard trunk, etc. in the same relationship to the adjacent
stations,...", the operative word here being "relationship." I
interpret this to mean that the centerboard becomes longer, for the
case to take up the space between, and be braced by, bulkheads #2 and
#3. However, keeping the mast right aft of bulkhead #1 would seem to
move the CE forward relative to the CLR. Since the designed CE appears
to be aft of the designed CLR, perhaps this is no problem and might
result in a lighter helm, since the rudder won't have to take as much
of the lateral load. Is this how you built the boat?
While I'm asking, did you use all 1/4" ply? The AC ply I have access
to is some sort of luan, and is more flexible than I recall fir AC in
the past. I'd be tempted to use 3/8" for the bilge panels on the
stretched version, and perhaps use solid lumber for the keel and add a
chine log, to make it faster to build and avoid having to sand tape
seams (I'd rather plane the log than grind seams any day). Any other
building tips or scantling sizes you'd like to pass along would be
appreciated.
A small house-shaped (in plan view) bow well could hold ground tackle
and make way for the swing of the mast if using a tabernacle. The walk-
up style tabernacle, like the original Chebacco or MJ would probably be
easiest to make and allow better placement of the mast for trailering.
Thanks,
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
>--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "gbship" <gbship@...> wrote:Hadn't thought of that. I guess one should test it first. Thanks for
> Not wanting to flip such a large daysailer (with the low freeboard,
> it might turn turtle even with a wood mast & gaff...
the answers Gary. Oh, and thanks for the great reportage of the EC.
Congratulations to you and Chuck.
cheers
Graeme
--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "adventures_in_astrophotography"
<jon@...> wrote:
If memory serves, the mast was 18' 6" long, tapered at the top. The
sail is 135 square feet. Your mast sounds like it would be a 2-3 feet
shorter, which would help a lot. My old Elver had a 15 or 16 foot 3.5
inch diameter mast and it was quite a bit easier to step that mast.
A difference is the light schooner is an open boat. You can walk up
to the mast step by walking on the bottom. On the daysailer, the
centerboard is in the way in the cockpit, and then you have to step
up to the deck (right when the mast is at an awkward angle). A
tabernacle fixes the worst of the problems and isn't hard to do.
I don't want to sound discouraging, as this boat is worth the trouble
in looks and handling. I really would like to see another one built,
but want the builder to know what to expect!
Gary
<jon@...> wrote:
>the
> Hi Graeme,
>
> > in March this year I added a file to bolger_study_plans_only of
> > sailplan sketch _only_ from the SBJ articlehttp://tinyurl.com/k73co
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger_study_plans_only/files/Cartoon%
> > 2040/ Also I added a file to BolgerCartoons of the table ofcontinuing
> > offsets and waterlines _only_ from the article.
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BolgerCartoons/files/Cartoon%2040/
>
> Wow! Thanks a ton for all the information, Graeme. And my
> thanks to Bruce for maintaining such an excellent archive. Thislooks
> like a strong candidate for my next project while waiting forAuriga's
> design to be completed. The 15'-6" version could probably belaunched
> from a dolly, but the stretched version seems tempting, too.Robote
>
> I don't think I'd mind using a building jig for this hull. My
> project has similar 4-panel deep-vee hull, and it's been kind ofreference.
> awkward at times to keep everything plumb and fair when the boat is
> upside down, since there's no flat bottom panel for visual
>look
> As for Gary's comments on the mast and rigging setup, It doesn't
> too bad - I step two masts like this when rigging the Light (cat)be
> Schooner. The mast diameter at the partner is the same as my
> schooner's, so I could probably use one of her masts and sails for
> singlehanding (103 ft**2) without much change in balance - it would
> like having a reef in the designed rig and might be perfect for thethe
> gusty conditions we get in the afternoon. And of course there's
> economy in not buidling another mast and buying another sail.Jon:
>
> Jon Kolb
> www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
>
If memory serves, the mast was 18' 6" long, tapered at the top. The
sail is 135 square feet. Your mast sounds like it would be a 2-3 feet
shorter, which would help a lot. My old Elver had a 15 or 16 foot 3.5
inch diameter mast and it was quite a bit easier to step that mast.
A difference is the light schooner is an open boat. You can walk up
to the mast step by walking on the bottom. On the daysailer, the
centerboard is in the way in the cockpit, and then you have to step
up to the deck (right when the mast is at an awkward angle). A
tabernacle fixes the worst of the problems and isn't hard to do.
I don't want to sound discouraging, as this boat is worth the trouble
in looks and handling. I really would like to see another one built,
but want the builder to know what to expect!
Gary
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "graeme19121984" <graeme19121984@...>
wrote:
it might turn turtle even with a wood mast & gaff), I always had the
sand ballanst in, and never tried it without. It seemed plenty stiff.
I got caught out on a local lake once when the wind went to about 25
or so and only had one reef i the sail. Never felt like it was going
to go over
trailers have always been basic and somebody with more engineering
ability could probably do better.
Gary
wrote:
>Not wanting to flip such a large daysailer (with the low freeboard,
>
> Could you cut down on the ballast in your 19ft version? The longer
> hull should have more resistance to heeling, should'nt it?
it might turn turtle even with a wood mast & gaff), I always had the
sand ballanst in, and never tried it without. It seemed plenty stiff.
I got caught out on a local lake once when the wind went to about 25
or so and only had one reef i the sail. Never felt like it was going
to go over
>tinnie
>
> > * It will take some modification of the trailer to fit the v-
> > bottom. I used beveled bunk boards, but it wasn't terribly
> elegant.
> > Also because of the belly in the bottom and the deadrise, it will
> > take a moderately steep ramp to launch it. Not extreme, but it's
> not
> > a boat you can just pull off the trailer into the water, and vice
> > versa. It will weigh 4-6 times what a Gypsy does.
> >
> > Gary
> >
> Do you think there will be any appreciable difference in these
> trailer, launch and weight issues between the long and shorter
> versions? My 14ft catamaran has a lot of belly, but the trailer has
> rollers and it launches and retrieves quite easily even without the
> winch. Might not a trailer for a conventioal powered V-bottom
> having central and inclined rollers easily adapt?Sounds like the way to do it, with rollers instead of bunk boards; my
> Graeme
>
trailers have always been basic and somebody with more engineering
ability could probably do better.
Gary
Hi Graeme,
thanks to Bruce for maintaining such an excellent archive. This looks
like a strong candidate for my next project while waiting for Auriga's
design to be completed. The 15'-6" version could probably be launched
from a dolly, but the stretched version seems tempting, too.
I don't think I'd mind using a building jig for this hull. My Robote
project has similar 4-panel deep-vee hull, and it's been kind of
awkward at times to keep everything plumb and fair when the boat is
upside down, since there's no flat bottom panel for visual reference.
As for Gary's comments on the mast and rigging setup, It doesn't look
too bad - I step two masts like this when rigging the Light (cat)
Schooner. The mast diameter at the partner is the same as my
schooner's, so I could probably use one of her masts and sails for
singlehanding (103 ft**2) without much change in balance - it would be
like having a reef in the designed rig and might be perfect for the
gusty conditions we get in the afternoon. And of course there's the
economy in not buidling another mast and buying another sail.
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
> in March this year I added a file to bolger_study_plans_only of theWow! Thanks a ton for all the information, Graeme. And my continuing
> sailplan sketch _only_ from the SBJ article http://tinyurl.com/k73co
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger_study_plans_only/files/Cartoon%
> 2040/ Also I added a file to BolgerCartoons of the table of
> offsets and waterlines _only_ from the article.
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BolgerCartoons/files/Cartoon%2040/
thanks to Bruce for maintaining such an excellent archive. This looks
like a strong candidate for my next project while waiting for Auriga's
design to be completed. The 15'-6" version could probably be launched
from a dolly, but the stretched version seems tempting, too.
I don't think I'd mind using a building jig for this hull. My Robote
project has similar 4-panel deep-vee hull, and it's been kind of
awkward at times to keep everything plumb and fair when the boat is
upside down, since there's no flat bottom panel for visual reference.
As for Gary's comments on the mast and rigging setup, It doesn't look
too bad - I step two masts like this when rigging the Light (cat)
Schooner. The mast diameter at the partner is the same as my
schooner's, so I could probably use one of her masts and sails for
singlehanding (103 ft**2) without much change in balance - it would be
like having a reef in the designed rig and might be perfect for the
gusty conditions we get in the afternoon. And of course there's the
economy in not buidling another mast and buying another sail.
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
>--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "gbship" <gbship@...> wrote:pictures somewhere of it under construction, but I don't think any
> ...Alas, Graeme, the boat doesn't exist anymore. There are some
were ever taken of it under sail.
Hi Gary,
thanks for the additional info. Oh well, if you've no pics then I
guess we have Bruce's model and our minds eye.
> Couple pointsdock.
>
> * This was designed as a boat to be kept in the water at a
> The mast is heavy and unwieldy to step and unstep, either on aa
> trailer or in the water. If anyone is going to trailer this boat,
> tabernacle is almost a most. I never dropped the mast, but cameclose
> and it's no fun on a 95 degree day. It was much nicer with theform
> tabernacle.
>
> * Bolger mentions using around 140 pounds of ballast in the
> of standbags. I'll do it with water ballast with tanks on eitherside
> of the centerboard if I ever rebuild it.Could you cut down on the ballast in your 19ft version? The longer
>
hull should have more resistance to heeling, should'nt it?
> * It will take some modification of the trailer to fit the v-elegant.
> bottom. I used beveled bunk boards, but it wasn't terribly
> Also because of the belly in the bottom and the deadrise, it willnot
> take a moderately steep ramp to launch it. Not extreme, but it's
> a boat you can just pull off the trailer into the water, and viceDo you think there will be any appreciable difference in these
> versa. It will weigh 4-6 times what a Gypsy does.
>
> Gary
>
trailer, launch and weight issues between the long and shorter
versions? My 14ft catamaran has a lot of belly, but the trailer has
rollers and it launches and retrieves quite easily even without the
winch. Might not a trailer for a conventioal powered V-bottom tinnie
having central and inclined rollers easily adapt?
Graeme
> Wow it just occurred to me that if Gary has her available to showAlas, Graeme, the boat doesn't exist anymore. It was an experimental
> then he may be willing to post a photo or two. Please post pics if
> possible Gary.
>
> cheers
> Graeme
>
AC ply and polyester construction instead of epoxy, and after it had
sat outside uncovered for a few years, I was afraid it was rotting
out. So I cut it up, and found except for the stem (where there was
adequate backup on the outside by multiple layers of fiberglass), it
was in pretty good shape. Still have the sail, mast, boom, yard,
centerboard & rudder, in case I ever ger around to rebuilding the
hull. There are some pictures somewhere of it under construction, but
I don't think any were ever taken of it under sail.
Couple points
* This was designed as a boat to be kept in the water at a dock.
The mast is heavy and unwieldy to step and unstep, either on a
trailer or in the water. If anyone is going to trailer this boat, a
tabernacle is almost a most. I never dropped the mast, but came close
and it's no fun on a 95 degree day. It was much nicer with the
tabernacle.
* Bolger mentions using around 140 pounds of ballast in the form
of standbags. I'll do it with water ballast with tanks on either side
of the centerboard if I ever rebuild it.
* It will take some modification of the trailer to fit the v-
bottom. I used beveled bunk boards, but it wasn't terribly elegant.
Also because of the belly in the bottom and the deadrise, it will
take a moderately steep ramp to launch it. Not extreme, but it's not
a boat you can just pull off the trailer into the water, and vice
versa. It will weigh 4-6 times what a Gypsy does.
Gary
> I've never heard of the Casual Sailing Dinghy, but it sounds likeJon,
> what I'm looking for. Do you know of any links, photos, or other
> information on the web about it? Can you scan the cartoon and
>post it? I looked on Duckworks, but don't see the review you
>mentioned - by chance do you know where it is on the Duckworks
>site? I can fax PB&F about it, but I'd rather know something about
>what I'm asking for first.
in March this year I added a file to bolger_study_plans_only of the
sailplan sketch _only_ from the SBJ article http://tinyurl.com/k73co
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger_study_plans_only/files/Cartoon%
2040/ Also I added a file to BolgerCartoons of the table of
offsets and waterlines _only_ from the article.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BolgerCartoons/files/Cartoon%2040/
I had forgotten where I obtained these, but now see that I tagged
one image with just the number 42663 of the message below.
Accessing that message and others in the thread reveals that the
links to the full SBJ article and subsequent follow-ups, hull lines,
and cardboard model photos that Bruce Hallman posted are still there
to see.
Once more the Bolger community owe thanks to Bruce for his
great support and generosity. I'd like to say thanks Bruce, and ask
if you would consider adding the full SBJ material etc. to Cartoons,
or_study_plans_only Files sections, or create a link in Links?
["============================================
Message 42663 of 49168
From: Bruce Hallman <bruce@...>
Date: Fri Mar 18, 2005 2:35 am
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Bolger custom designs
see scans here:
http://hallman.org/SBJ/64/
That boat looks great. I don't understand the
distinction Bolger makes between 'unfinished'
designs that he calls Cartoons, #40 in this
instance and 'finished' designs which he numbers.
When you look at this, Cartoon #40 seems at
least as finished as some other Bolger numbered
designs. Yet, it is called a Cartoon. Any ideas why?
Message 42670 of 49169
From: "gbship" <gbship@...>
Date: Fri Mar 18, 2005 4:40 pm
Subject: Re: Bolger custom designs
Bruce: Thanks for the scans! and even better, you did the drawings,
which show exactly how the boat looks. You even found column that
mentioned my 30-footer --- but don't try writing me at that address
as that's about three moves ago :-)
Peter: The plans I had were a bit more finished than what he
published, but were on two sheets. They had some details, like the
mast scantlings (3.5 inch round, as I recall, tapered to 1.5 or 2
inches at the top -- I eventually replaced it with an aluminum tube).
The stem was about 3 x 3, but swelled until it was 6 x 6 at the mast
step. This boat did require that a jig and forms be constructed, only
the second boat I've done that isn't instant boat fashion. But
someone who's reasonably familiar with boats could do it from the
offsets in the article. I doubt Bolger would charge much for the
blueprints.
Gary
--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "pvanderwaart" <pvanderwaart@y...>
wrote:
>to
> > When you look at this, Cartoon #40 seems at
> > least as finished as some other Bolger numbered
> > designs. Yet, it is called a Cartoon. Any ideas why?
>
> I think it's called a cartoon here because it's part of the SBJ
> cartoon series, many of which became finished designs. If he every
> made a "completed" plan, I've not seen it, and I don't know why.
> Possibly, no interest, except maybe Gary, who is experienced enough
> build from the table of offsets.Message 42679 of 49169 From: Bruce Hallman <bruce@...>
>
> Peter
Date: Sat Mar 19, 2005 1:15 am
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Bolger custom designs
> > > When you look at this, Cartoon #40 seems atAnd here are a few photos of a cardboard model of the hull.
It looks like that boat would be fun and fast, planing on sail.
http://community.webshots.com/album/298174160oRSuXz
============================================"]
The above thread begins at Message 42570 and is well worth reading
again for the info and issues raised.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/message/42570
If you would care to search the archive around this time, if memory
serves (give or take 6 months!), in other threads, Gary Blankenship
discussed his stretch version, and his high appreciation of it.
IIRC he commended either version.
Bolgers reference in the SBJ article "as close to self righting as
an inland day sailer needs to be" checked me as my likely sailing
waters are probably less protected coastal.
Although you can build from the article Gary says Cartoon 40 plans
from PCB are a bit more complete than those presented in the SBJ
article. There are 2 sheets. It is not an "instant boat", but also
not too difficult. It requires the hassle of a building jig, but Jon
with your experience, quality, and demonstrated ability, the build
would be a cinch.
See *Mouser* of similar dimensions in "Small Boats" to
compare/contrast the performance of a differing V-bottom lines plan.
Without the Mouser long run aft, and with her greater rocker Cartoon
40 might not achieve the same speed, especially when reaching, but
would be a joy to sail.
The Duckworks info is on the Home page under Indexes.
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/indexes.htm and click on
Duckworks Design Review Database. There search "b" or "bolger"
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/ddrd/index.cfm and then click on
Details for the V-bottom Catboat review entry by Gary Blakenship
and a small window will open partially containing:
"Details:
available to show? Yes
test drive? No
Name of Design V-bottom catboat
Designer Bolger
Length (feet) 19
Beam 6
Draft 10 inches, board up
Type sail
Sail area 135
Material Glass over ply
Dollars spent $1000
Weight 800 to 900
Hours to build 200
Why V-bottom catboat was chosen?
It's a pretty boat! It originally appeared in Small Boat Journal as
a 15.5 footer. Bolger later advised readers it could be stretched 25
percent on the same beam and with the same sail.
Met expectations excellent
Competeness of plans excellent
This boat is a paragon, perhaps the best all around boat I've ever
sailed. Not the fastest, but she feels quick and handles
wonderfully, steady on course but turns on a dime and keeps up her
momentum. Virtually no pounding, even on the wind.
Performance:
Smoothness (no pounding) 5
Ease of setup 3
Windward ability 4
Windward ability 5
Speed 4
Economy 4
Seaworthyness 5
Ease of building 3
Ergonomics 4
I feel this boat will safely carry 4 .
If you are going to build V-bottom catboat, please consider this:
She was designed to be left at a dock, with the 18.5 foot mast up. I
eventually switched to a tabernacle to ease the setup, since she was
kept on a trailer. Not as easy to set up as some boats, she pays it
back with looks and performance."
Hope this helps.
Wow it just occurred to me that if Gary has her available to show
then he may be willing to post a photo or two. Please post pics if
possible Gary.
cheers
Graeme
Jon,
I would guess that the she weighed 30 or 40 pounds extra with the decking, deck framing and solid bulkheads. I always moved her about on land and launched her using a two-wheeled dolly. It would have been a two person job minimum to pick her up - total weight I would guess was something like 120 pounds.
I suppose the extra weight detracts somewhat from the performance of the boat, but having side decks to sit upon and decking to reduce the amount of water taken on more than offsets the disadvantage.
This is not a planing design. At best it sort of semi-planes, and then only with the boat overpowered and control on the hairy edge. The rocker aft and the narrow waterline conspire to keep her from sliding on the surface of the water.
I think the Cartopper spritsail rig should work fine on this boat. Might even be preferable to the leg-o'-mutton sail as it has a lower center of effort and the Gypsy is a very tender boat. You would need to modify the mast partner for the spritsail rig as the mast needs to be more nearly vertical - see BWAOM page 28. You would also need to lead the mainsheet to the gunwales rather than the to the rudder.
Paul
adventures_in_astrophotography <jon@...> wrote:
Thanks for this good information! I'll certainly find it useful if I
decide to build the boat. Do you have any idea how much weight your
modifications added to the finished boat, and do you have any feel for
how this affected performance?
Thanks again,
Jon Kolb
---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I would guess that the she weighed 30 or 40 pounds extra with the decking, deck framing and solid bulkheads. I always moved her about on land and launched her using a two-wheeled dolly. It would have been a two person job minimum to pick her up - total weight I would guess was something like 120 pounds.
I suppose the extra weight detracts somewhat from the performance of the boat, but having side decks to sit upon and decking to reduce the amount of water taken on more than offsets the disadvantage.
This is not a planing design. At best it sort of semi-planes, and then only with the boat overpowered and control on the hairy edge. The rocker aft and the narrow waterline conspire to keep her from sliding on the surface of the water.
I think the Cartopper spritsail rig should work fine on this boat. Might even be preferable to the leg-o'-mutton sail as it has a lower center of effort and the Gypsy is a very tender boat. You would need to modify the mast partner for the spritsail rig as the mast needs to be more nearly vertical - see BWAOM page 28. You would also need to lead the mainsheet to the gunwales rather than the to the rudder.
Paul
adventures_in_astrophotography <jon@...> wrote:
Thanks for this good information! I'll certainly find it useful if I
decide to build the boat. Do you have any idea how much weight your
modifications added to the finished boat, and do you have any feel for
how this affected performance?
Thanks again,
Jon Kolb
---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Graeme,
person to think of trying the CT appendages in Gypsy. I'll have to
see if I can locate an old copy of SBJ - libraries around here don't
have much in the way of boating journals, though.
what I'm looking for. Do you know of any links, photos, or other
information on the web about it? Can you scan the cartoon and post
it? I looked on Duckworks, but don't see the review you mentioned -
by chance do you know where it is on the Duckworks site? I can fax
PB&F about it, but I'd rather know something about what I'm asking
for first.
Thanks again,
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadvntures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
> Bolger tried this design configuration out. He actually tried thehave
> Payson Cartopper centre board, but found he then had to make the
> rudder too deep (SBJ #64 p18). I'm not sure, but guess he would
> tried all the stock sails too. Also I'm not sure where he wastied
> placing the Car Topper centreboard. Bolger wrote that he nearly
> himself in knots when trying to get a centreboard in Gypsy. Hetried
> all sorts. With the CT centreboard he didn't think it would be asMany thanks for this information! I had a feeling I wasn't the first
> handy in stays as a day racer ought be. (A goal you may not be
> aiming for?) See Dart Dinghy BWAOM for info on forward centreboard
> effect on hanging up in stays. I'm guessing, but compared to Car
> Topper the extra length with less rocker of Gypsy may make for more
> midbody resistance as it slides sideways in turns pivoting around
> the more forward centreboard.
person to think of trying the CT appendages in Gypsy. I'll have to
see if I can locate an old copy of SBJ - libraries around here don't
have much in the way of boating journals, though.
> The request to Bolger had been for, among other things, amodifying
> centreboard side decked 14ft planing dinghy. Frustrated by
> Gypsy to suit, PCB instead came up with the Casual Sailing Dinghy,I've never heard of the Casual Sailing Dinghy, but it sounds like
> aka Cartoon 40, aka 16ft Vee-bottom, a relaxed day sailer racer.
> Gary Blankenship built the 19ft stretch version and has written
> something to the effect that it is the best he has ever sailed. He
> has posted a review at Duckworks.
what I'm looking for. Do you know of any links, photos, or other
information on the web about it? Can you scan the cartoon and post
it? I looked on Duckworks, but don't see the review you mentioned -
by chance do you know where it is on the Duckworks site? I can fax
PB&F about it, but I'd rather know something about what I'm asking
for first.
Thanks again,
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadvntures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
Hi Paul,
the Photos section under "Paul Thober's boats".
...snip...
Thanks for this good information! I'll certainly find it useful if I
decide to build the boat. Do you have any idea how much weight your
modifications added to the finished boat, and do you have any feel for
how this affected performance?
Thanks again,
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
> I found this old post of mine describing the modifications I madeto the Gypsy design. You can see a couple of pictures of the boat in
the Photos section under "Paul Thober's boats".
...snip...
Thanks for this good information! I'll certainly find it useful if I
decide to build the boat. Do you have any idea how much weight your
modifications added to the finished boat, and do you have any feel for
how this affected performance?
Thanks again,
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
Jon,
Bolger tried this design configuration out. He actually tried the
Payson Cartopper centre board, but found he then had to make the
rudder too deep (SBJ #64 p18). I'm not sure, but guess he would have
tried all the stock sails too. Also I'm not sure where he was
placing the Car Topper centreboard. Bolger wrote that he nearly tied
himself in knots when trying to get a centreboard in Gypsy. He tried
all sorts. With the CT centreboard he didn't think it would be as
handy in stays as a day racer ought be. (A goal you may not be
aiming for?) See Dart Dinghy BWAOM for info on forward centreboard
effect on hanging up in stays. I'm guessing, but compared to Car
Topper the extra length with less rocker of Gypsy may make for more
midbody resistance as it slides sideways in turns pivoting around
the more forward centreboard.
The request to Bolger had been for, among other things, a
centreboard side decked 14ft planing dinghy. Frustrated by modifying
Gypsy to suit, PCB instead came up with the Casual Sailing Dinghy,
aka Cartoon 40, aka 16ft Vee-bottom, a relaxed day sailer racer.
Gary Blankenship built the 19ft stretch version and has written
something to the effect that it is the best he has ever sailed. He
has posted a review at Duckworks.
Graeme
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "adventures_in_astrophotography"
<jon@...> wrote:
Bolger tried this design configuration out. He actually tried the
Payson Cartopper centre board, but found he then had to make the
rudder too deep (SBJ #64 p18). I'm not sure, but guess he would have
tried all the stock sails too. Also I'm not sure where he was
placing the Car Topper centreboard. Bolger wrote that he nearly tied
himself in knots when trying to get a centreboard in Gypsy. He tried
all sorts. With the CT centreboard he didn't think it would be as
handy in stays as a day racer ought be. (A goal you may not be
aiming for?) See Dart Dinghy BWAOM for info on forward centreboard
effect on hanging up in stays. I'm guessing, but compared to Car
Topper the extra length with less rocker of Gypsy may make for more
midbody resistance as it slides sideways in turns pivoting around
the more forward centreboard.
The request to Bolger had been for, among other things, a
centreboard side decked 14ft planing dinghy. Frustrated by modifying
Gypsy to suit, PCB instead came up with the Casual Sailing Dinghy,
aka Cartoon 40, aka 16ft Vee-bottom, a relaxed day sailer racer.
Gary Blankenship built the 19ft stretch version and has written
something to the effect that it is the best he has ever sailed. He
has posted a review at Duckworks.
Graeme
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "adventures_in_astrophotography"
<jon@...> wrote:
>forward
> One of the hundred or so boats I'd like to build sometime is
>Gypsy... I'd also like a centerboard instead of a daggerboard in a
>boat like this, to make running up on a beach easier.
>1) Use the centerboard from Cartopper, and put it immediately
> of bulkhead #2 (station at 6'). The rudders from both boatsappear
> to be almost identical, with Gypsy's mounted a little deeper dueto
> the slightly lower transom height offsetting the slightly longer
> rudder blade on Cartopper - probably could use either one.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "adventures_in_astrophotography"
<jon@...> wrote:
a couple of comments. The daggerboard was never a problem for me,
sailing the lakes of Tennessee. Just pull it up before you get there.
Never struck anything with it in 3-4 years of hard sailing. IMHO the
side seats are useless as drawn, and the boat DEFINATELY needs side
decks, and somewhere I read of Bolger approving of such if not
actually drawing them. I'm very gung-ho so if I'm not on the rail it's
not really sailing, and since the multichine hull of Gypsy likes to
lean over and "lock in" on the first chine, hiking out is common with
the boat and so the side decks will be much appreciated over the
thigh-damaging thin sheer strakes.
I sailed the mast-partner out of mine, and if I were to build another
I'd install it with the vertical beam supports pointed down,below the
sheer , and glue and screw a bulkhead to the forward support, with
the bulkhead fitted to the hull and filletwed in. I would also build a
beefier rudder headstock and blade and tiller (broke it twice!).If you
are cold water sailing, then foam flotation would be a good idea,
though all this adds weight and hinders performance.
Gypsy is a very rewarding boat and WILL PLANE. But like i said, I'm a
little gung-ho, so I know my gear failures were from over exuberence
on the skipper/builders part and not the designers fault.
I built my Gypsy and named her "Marilyn, I Do", giving her to my wife
on our 1st anniversary. "Red Herring" may have been more appropriate.
I used to drag the boat up into the bed of my Toyota pick-up, go to
the lake, drag her down the grass and beach and launch and sail. Never
had a trailer. A simple doll on the transom would have made it even
easier.
I kept her in my back yard, upside down. A friend was visiting my
house after just purchasing some plywood. His full size truck was
loaded even to the top of the bed. When leaving, he backed up and
couldn't see the hull behind him. I was watching the slow motion
disaster from my front yard and could do nothing. One tire rolled up
the aft starboard blige panel and onto the bottom, holding there for a
couple of beats before dropping through the hull. Otherwise I'd still
be sailing her. Great boat. Built of luan and polyester, she was
rigged with a windsurfer sail and cost me $185 to build. She gave
hours of fun in the building, and seasons of fun in the sailing.
Everyone should try one once!
Cheers, David
<jon@...> wrote:
>Gypsy was the first Bolger boat I built, back in 1985, so I'll offer
> One of the hundred or so boats I'd like to build sometime is Gypsy,
> but I've always thought that boat could be a little unsafe on the
> cold lake I sail on. I'd also like a centerboard instead of a
> daggerboard in a boat like this, to make running up on a beach
> easier. And it would be nice to have a rig that stowed completely
> within the length of the boat when ashore. Recently it struck me
> that there might be a way to do these things and also get some more
> usable room in the cockpit.
a couple of comments. The daggerboard was never a problem for me,
sailing the lakes of Tennessee. Just pull it up before you get there.
Never struck anything with it in 3-4 years of hard sailing. IMHO the
side seats are useless as drawn, and the boat DEFINATELY needs side
decks, and somewhere I read of Bolger approving of such if not
actually drawing them. I'm very gung-ho so if I'm not on the rail it's
not really sailing, and since the multichine hull of Gypsy likes to
lean over and "lock in" on the first chine, hiking out is common with
the boat and so the side decks will be much appreciated over the
thigh-damaging thin sheer strakes.
I sailed the mast-partner out of mine, and if I were to build another
I'd install it with the vertical beam supports pointed down,below the
sheer , and glue and screw a bulkhead to the forward support, with
the bulkhead fitted to the hull and filletwed in. I would also build a
beefier rudder headstock and blade and tiller (broke it twice!).If you
are cold water sailing, then foam flotation would be a good idea,
though all this adds weight and hinders performance.
Gypsy is a very rewarding boat and WILL PLANE. But like i said, I'm a
little gung-ho, so I know my gear failures were from over exuberence
on the skipper/builders part and not the designers fault.
I built my Gypsy and named her "Marilyn, I Do", giving her to my wife
on our 1st anniversary. "Red Herring" may have been more appropriate.
I used to drag the boat up into the bed of my Toyota pick-up, go to
the lake, drag her down the grass and beach and launch and sail. Never
had a trailer. A simple doll on the transom would have made it even
easier.
I kept her in my back yard, upside down. A friend was visiting my
house after just purchasing some plywood. His full size truck was
loaded even to the top of the bed. When leaving, he backed up and
couldn't see the hull behind him. I was watching the slow motion
disaster from my front yard and could do nothing. One tire rolled up
the aft starboard blige panel and onto the bottom, holding there for a
couple of beats before dropping through the hull. Otherwise I'd still
be sailing her. Great boat. Built of luan and polyester, she was
rigged with a windsurfer sail and cost me $185 to build. She gave
hours of fun in the building, and seasons of fun in the sailing.
Everyone should try one once!
Cheers, David
Jon,
I found this old post of mine describing the modifications I made to the Gypsy design. You can see a couple of pictures of the boat in the Photos section under "Paul Thober's boats".
Paul
Hello group,
I thought I would list the modifications that I made to the Gypsy
design. I think decking the boat was most significant as it makes the
Gypsy so much more seaworthy - I don't want to imagine sailing it on
Casco Bay without a deck. Even decked I've taken water into the
cockpit!
The hull:
I used butt straps at all the panel joints and taped them on the
outside of the hull. The motor board in the transom I reduced to 1
1/2" width. After assembling the hull I removed the molds at stations
#12 and #9 and installed water tight bulkheads at stations #13 and
#5 - at #13 I inclined the bulkhead the same as the transom, 20
degrees, to enable lounging. I cut an 8" diameter hole in the frame
at station #3 for access. I cut out holes in the frame at station #6
on either side of the daggerboard case leaving 2 1/2" all around to
give access forward to the bulkhead at station #5. I added a skeg 2"
deep and 24" long.
Daggerboard case:
I eliminated the portion that extends aft to station #9 and extended
the case to gunwale level and framed the top with 3/4" X 1 1/2" for
the decking to land on. I lengthened to daggerboard so that it
extends the designed distance below the hull.
Seats:
I eliminated all the seating shown in the plans and made a small
removeable rowing stool that I stow under the forward deck.
Deck framing:
All the frames have 3/4" X 1 1/2" framing along the top edge for
attaching the decking. I installed knees to support the deck 6" aft
of station #10 and 6" aft of station #7. These are made of two layers
of 1/4" ply and incorporate hooks for oar stowage. I installed a 3/4"
X 1 1/2" beam at the aft end of the daggerboard case (6" aft of
station #7) that is supported by the knees and the daggerboard case.
The side deck beams I laminated in place of three pieces of 3/4"
square stock. The side decks are 12" wide and the deck beams follow
the curve of the gunwales. Where the oarlocks and the cleat at the
bow mount I installed reinforcements of 3/4# ply - at the oarlocks
they measure 3" X 6" and at the bow it extends back to station #1. I
eliminated the athwartships mast partner and replaced it with a
longitudinal reinforcement of 1/4" ply between the frame at station
#6 and the bulkhead at station #5.
Decking:
The decking is all 1/4" ply and is glassed with 6 oz. cloth. I
trimmed the decking 1/4" at all the edges then covered all the raw
edges with 3/4" square stock that I had rabbeted 1/4" X 1/2" and then
rounded over. I nailed these in place with bronze ring nails and then
sanded the heads off them after the glue cured. I added a 3/4" X 6"
square reinforcement to the mast partner above the deck and added a
coaming just forward of that. I added a Jonesport cleat at the bow
and risers for the oarlocks. I installed 8" Bomar hatches for access
to the watertight compartments fore and aft.
Rigging:
I made the mast of four 1 1/4" square pieces. I added a second sheave
at the end of the boom to reduce the force on the mainsheet. Also
added a jam cleat on the tiller to hold the sheet. The lower sheave
for the sheet is attached to the tiller just forward of the rudder
through a hole with a jam knot. I am going to "leather" the boom and
mast with 1/8" nylon line to eliminate the grinding between the two.
Rudder:
The gudgeons are made from 3/4" ply doubled and then glued, filleted
and glassed to the transom. The pintles are 3/4" ply and 3/4" dowels
glued, filleted and glassed to the rudder. The top of the rudder is
just the plain double 1/4" ply and the tiller has a slot, i.e. the
rudder is inside the tiller rather than the tiller being inside the
rudder as shown in the plans. I made the tiller to the original
design length of 60" and mounted the hiking stick below rather than
on top.
Criticism:
The side decks should be a little narrower to give more cockpit room -
maybe 9" wide rather than the 12" I made them. The rear of the
cockpit is mostly unuseable when underway, but I wanted lie-down
length - if this is not important the bulkhead could remain at
station #12. For as little freeboard as this boat has it surely does
blow about when rowing in a breeze. Sailing this boat is great fun.
---------------------------------
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I found this old post of mine describing the modifications I made to the Gypsy design. You can see a couple of pictures of the boat in the Photos section under "Paul Thober's boats".
Paul
Hello group,
I thought I would list the modifications that I made to the Gypsy
design. I think decking the boat was most significant as it makes the
Gypsy so much more seaworthy - I don't want to imagine sailing it on
Casco Bay without a deck. Even decked I've taken water into the
cockpit!
The hull:
I used butt straps at all the panel joints and taped them on the
outside of the hull. The motor board in the transom I reduced to 1
1/2" width. After assembling the hull I removed the molds at stations
#12 and #9 and installed water tight bulkheads at stations #13 and
#5 - at #13 I inclined the bulkhead the same as the transom, 20
degrees, to enable lounging. I cut an 8" diameter hole in the frame
at station #3 for access. I cut out holes in the frame at station #6
on either side of the daggerboard case leaving 2 1/2" all around to
give access forward to the bulkhead at station #5. I added a skeg 2"
deep and 24" long.
Daggerboard case:
I eliminated the portion that extends aft to station #9 and extended
the case to gunwale level and framed the top with 3/4" X 1 1/2" for
the decking to land on. I lengthened to daggerboard so that it
extends the designed distance below the hull.
Seats:
I eliminated all the seating shown in the plans and made a small
removeable rowing stool that I stow under the forward deck.
Deck framing:
All the frames have 3/4" X 1 1/2" framing along the top edge for
attaching the decking. I installed knees to support the deck 6" aft
of station #10 and 6" aft of station #7. These are made of two layers
of 1/4" ply and incorporate hooks for oar stowage. I installed a 3/4"
X 1 1/2" beam at the aft end of the daggerboard case (6" aft of
station #7) that is supported by the knees and the daggerboard case.
The side deck beams I laminated in place of three pieces of 3/4"
square stock. The side decks are 12" wide and the deck beams follow
the curve of the gunwales. Where the oarlocks and the cleat at the
bow mount I installed reinforcements of 3/4# ply - at the oarlocks
they measure 3" X 6" and at the bow it extends back to station #1. I
eliminated the athwartships mast partner and replaced it with a
longitudinal reinforcement of 1/4" ply between the frame at station
#6 and the bulkhead at station #5.
Decking:
The decking is all 1/4" ply and is glassed with 6 oz. cloth. I
trimmed the decking 1/4" at all the edges then covered all the raw
edges with 3/4" square stock that I had rabbeted 1/4" X 1/2" and then
rounded over. I nailed these in place with bronze ring nails and then
sanded the heads off them after the glue cured. I added a 3/4" X 6"
square reinforcement to the mast partner above the deck and added a
coaming just forward of that. I added a Jonesport cleat at the bow
and risers for the oarlocks. I installed 8" Bomar hatches for access
to the watertight compartments fore and aft.
Rigging:
I made the mast of four 1 1/4" square pieces. I added a second sheave
at the end of the boom to reduce the force on the mainsheet. Also
added a jam cleat on the tiller to hold the sheet. The lower sheave
for the sheet is attached to the tiller just forward of the rudder
through a hole with a jam knot. I am going to "leather" the boom and
mast with 1/8" nylon line to eliminate the grinding between the two.
Rudder:
The gudgeons are made from 3/4" ply doubled and then glued, filleted
and glassed to the transom. The pintles are 3/4" ply and 3/4" dowels
glued, filleted and glassed to the rudder. The top of the rudder is
just the plain double 1/4" ply and the tiller has a slot, i.e. the
rudder is inside the tiller rather than the tiller being inside the
rudder as shown in the plans. I made the tiller to the original
design length of 60" and mounted the hiking stick below rather than
on top.
Criticism:
The side decks should be a little narrower to give more cockpit room -
maybe 9" wide rather than the 12" I made them. The rear of the
cockpit is mostly unuseable when underway, but I wanted lie-down
length - if this is not important the bulkhead could remain at
station #12. For as little freeboard as this boat has it surely does
blow about when rowing in a breeze. Sailing this boat is great fun.
---------------------------------
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One of the hundred or so boats I'd like to build sometime is Gypsy,
but I've always thought that boat could be a little unsafe on the
cold lake I sail on. I'd also like a centerboard instead of a
daggerboard in a boat like this, to make running up on a beach
easier. And it would be nice to have a rig that stowed completely
within the length of the boat when ashore. Recently it struck me
that there might be a way to do these things and also get some more
usable room in the cockpit.
These are just ideas, not cleared with the designer, and presented
here for comment, derision, and laughter as necessary:
1) Use the centerboard from Cartopper, and put it immediately forward
of bulkhead #2 (station at 6'). The rudders from both boats appear
to be almost identical, with Gypsy's mounted a little deeper due to
the slightly lower transom height offsetting the slightly longer
rudder blade on Cartopper - probably could use either one.
2) Make bulkhead #1 solid.
3) Cut the bulkheads such that they support, with some light framing
as needed, side decks about 10" or so wide, and deck over the bow
compartment. Use the side decks for seating, and either put bouancy
foam underneath, or wall off the space underneath them, perhaps
making the "walls" perpendicular to the bilge panels. Use a round
watertight access hatch for the bow compartment.
4) Stow the oars under the side decks (with appropriate cutouts in
bulkheads #2 and #3, stations at 6' and 9') or against the cockpit
walls formed by item 3).
5) Move the mast step to between the forward end of the centerboard
case and bulkhead #1, use the 61 ft**2 spritsail rig from Cartopper.
6) Leave the rowing seat permanently fixed where it is, and perhaps
box it in to make a ditty box for oarlocks, vaseline, etc. Leave
limbers on either side if boxed in.
7) Extend side decks aft to transom, making still more positive
bouyancy in the stern. Use round access hatches here if boxed in.
8) In the now clear space ahead of the rowing seat, place 50 lb. dog
for sailing indoctrination. With no halyard to tend, no boom to
smack dog or skipper, and one sheet, it might be possible to sail
like this.
Since both boats have similar hull forms and use the same sail area
(and sail in the case of the Leg-o-mutton rig), this seems like it
might work. One downside is that the deck and supporting structure
will make the boat heavier - there are probably other issues as
well. Any comments?
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
but I've always thought that boat could be a little unsafe on the
cold lake I sail on. I'd also like a centerboard instead of a
daggerboard in a boat like this, to make running up on a beach
easier. And it would be nice to have a rig that stowed completely
within the length of the boat when ashore. Recently it struck me
that there might be a way to do these things and also get some more
usable room in the cockpit.
These are just ideas, not cleared with the designer, and presented
here for comment, derision, and laughter as necessary:
1) Use the centerboard from Cartopper, and put it immediately forward
of bulkhead #2 (station at 6'). The rudders from both boats appear
to be almost identical, with Gypsy's mounted a little deeper due to
the slightly lower transom height offsetting the slightly longer
rudder blade on Cartopper - probably could use either one.
2) Make bulkhead #1 solid.
3) Cut the bulkheads such that they support, with some light framing
as needed, side decks about 10" or so wide, and deck over the bow
compartment. Use the side decks for seating, and either put bouancy
foam underneath, or wall off the space underneath them, perhaps
making the "walls" perpendicular to the bilge panels. Use a round
watertight access hatch for the bow compartment.
4) Stow the oars under the side decks (with appropriate cutouts in
bulkheads #2 and #3, stations at 6' and 9') or against the cockpit
walls formed by item 3).
5) Move the mast step to between the forward end of the centerboard
case and bulkhead #1, use the 61 ft**2 spritsail rig from Cartopper.
6) Leave the rowing seat permanently fixed where it is, and perhaps
box it in to make a ditty box for oarlocks, vaseline, etc. Leave
limbers on either side if boxed in.
7) Extend side decks aft to transom, making still more positive
bouyancy in the stern. Use round access hatches here if boxed in.
8) In the now clear space ahead of the rowing seat, place 50 lb. dog
for sailing indoctrination. With no halyard to tend, no boom to
smack dog or skipper, and one sheet, it might be possible to sail
like this.
Since both boats have similar hull forms and use the same sail area
(and sail in the case of the Leg-o-mutton rig), this seems like it
might work. One downside is that the deck and supporting structure
will make the boat heavier - there are probably other issues as
well. Any comments?
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm